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HHIE 




BRADSHAW'S 

ILLUSTRATED 

IRAVELLERS' HAND-BOOK 

TO FRANCE, 

ADAPTED TO ALL THE RAILWAY ROUTES: 

vrrm 
A SHORT ITINERARY OF CORSICA 9 



Ain> AN INTBODUCTOBT 



GUIDE TO PARIS. 



WITH MAPS, TOWN PLANS, AND ILLUSTRA.TIONS. 



"When thon haply seest 
Some rare note-worthy object in thy irarels, 
Make me partaker of thy happiness."— iSAat^pMiniW 



NEW EDITION. 



— . LOinX)N : 

W. J. ADAMS ft SONS (BBADSHAWS GUIDE OFFICE), 99, FLEET STREET, E.O.: 

MANOHBSTJiB:— HENRY BLAOKLOGK * CO., ALBERT SQUARE: 

UTIBPOOL:— W. H. SMITH* SON. 01. Dai.b Srssar; BIRMINGHAM:- W. H. SMITH A SON. 33. Umdx Sthut; 

BRiaHTON:^H. * a TBSACHBR. 1. Nuktb Stsxr; 80UTHAMPrON:-COX A 8HARLAND. Hiuh SraEn; 

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GERMANY :-J. F. KOBHLER. LBircio; 

PORT BAID:-J. BORNi ALEXANDRIA AND CAIRO :-M. PEVASSON; 

UNITBD STATES :~OBABLEB 80RIBNER A SONS. 7«l akd 745. Bboabwat. New Yobk: 

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And Bold by iJI BookMllen »nd »t all Railwa/ Stationi tbrouehoat OrcBt Britain, Irwland. aud tb« Contlnant. 

1897. 



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between tedious 

to the tastes o,f 

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K Sections, cor- 
3 trunlL lines of 
Berthing every- 
ktation. Next, 
munication are 
locality of any 
>iinectioD with 



a under great 

of this Hand- 

to Hachette's 



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Btly invited to 
torrections or 
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ADDRESS. 



The present revised %:ad improved Hai^d-Bqpk to Fra-nob it adq,pted to the require- 
ments of the day, and to the great alterations produced hy the extension of the 
railway system. In writing it we hare endeavoured to steer midway between tedious 
m descriptions and a meagre list of names ; in order to recommend it to the tastes ojf 
the majority of travellers, whose object is to see as much as possible with the least 
expenditure of time and money. 

< Tlie plan pursued is as follows : Paris is the great centre from which all the 
Routes spread over the country ; which is here parcelled out into six Sections, cor- 
responding to the six great Railway Companies. We first follow the trunk lines of 
each, and then their branches, in succession, as far as they go ; describing every- 
thing worth notice upon them or in their vicinity, from the nearest station. Next, 
the roads which traverse a district remote from the new lines of communication are 
described from some convenient starting point ; and thus every locality of any 
special interest, however distant from a railway, is brought into connection with 
it and made accessible to the Traveller. 

Besides the authorities referred to in the text, we have been under great 
obligations for many useful details in the compilation and revision of this Hand- 
book, to A. Hugo's interefiting work, entitled France Ptttoreaqtu, and to Hachette's 
series of French Itin&aires, edited by A. Joanne, and others. 

It is scarcely necessary to add that the productiop of .a ^ood Guide is a Wiork of 
time, and the result of much patient thought, and gradual digestion of matter. 
Thosf^ therefore, into whose hands this Httle book may fall, are earnestly invited to 
I l their assistance towards perfecting it, by transmitting such corrections or 
auvitional information as may be derived from personal experience or good authority, 
to our London or Manchester Office. Notices of Idterations in conveyances, hotels, 
and other heads, will be received with many thanks. 



r 



CONTENTS. 



IXa^THOIDXJOXIOIT- 



PAttX 

CoMXOii Fbbnob Words avd Phkasbs Ixvi 

MUNKT XXX 

I'ARU, UuzDK TO, alphabetically UTangecL xIIt 

Paactzcal Instkuotxoks to Tbatkllxbs: 

Living in France ; xxxiii 

Passports, Money, Luggage, Letters ... xxx 
Railways, Diligences, Ac xxxir 



Routes to France 



FAOB 

Sketch of F&ange : 

Departments, Provinces xxxvii 

Natural Features xxxtU 

Population, Ac xli 

Rivers , xxxvii 

Sovereigns xl 

Table of Historical Events from 1870... xli 



XXXi I WeIOHTS AND MEA8UBB8 ZXXIt 



SEOTlOlvT 1- 



Chemin de Per du Nord (Nortb) and Oonneotioni. 



ROUTE I. PAGE 

Calais to Boulogne, Abbeville, Amiens Creil, 

and Paris 1 

ROUTE 3. 
Calais to 8t. Omer, Haasebrouck, Lille, and 

Arras 11 

ROUTE 8. 
Calais to Dunkerque and Hazebrouck .m.. 15 

ROUTE 4. 
ouai, Valenciennes, Mons, and Brussels 17 



ROUTE 5. PAGE 
Paris to Creil, Compi^gne, Tergn ier, St. Quentin, 
Maubeuge, Brussels, and Cologne 18 

ROUTE 6. 
Paris to Dammartin, Soissons, Laon, Vervins, 

Hirson, M^sibres, and Qivet 22 

ROUTE 7. 
Paris to Creil, by Pontoise 24 

ROUTE 7a. 
Paris to Creil, Beauvais, Trtfport,and Gonraay 26 



OOXTBNTS. Tii. 

SDBoanoxT id. 

Obemln de Per de ronest (West) and Connections. 

ROUTE 14. PAOI 

Lison to St. Lo, Contances, Ayranches, and 
Mont St. Michel 63 

ROUTE 15. 
Paris to Versailles, Gbartres, Le Mans, Alen^on 

Rennes, and Brest 58 

ROUTE 15a. 
Paris to Versailles, Drenx, Laigle, Arg^ntan, 

Flers, Vlre, and Granville 69 

ROUTE 16. 

Le Mans to Alen^ou, Argentan, and Mezidon.. 70 

ROUTE 17. 

Alengon to Bagnoles and Domfront 72 

ROUTE 18. 
Laval to Fong^res, Pontorson, Mout St. Michel, 

and Avranches 73 

ROUTE l». 
Rouen to Honfleur,by road 61 1 Rennes to Dol, Dinan, and St. Malo 73 



ROUTE 8. PAOB 
Dieppe to Rouen and Paris 27 

ROUTE 9. 
Harre and Fecamp to Ronen and Paris 38 

ROUTE 10a. 
Paris to St. Cloud, St. Germain, and Versailles 41 

ROUTE 10b. 
Paris to St. Germain 43 

ROUTE lOc. 
Paris to Auteuil 43 

ROUTE 11. 
Paris to Mantes, Evreux, Caen, and Cherbourg 44 

ROUTE J 2. 

Lisienx to Pont TEvSque, Trouville, and 
Honfleur 51 

ROUTE 13. 



Ghemin de Per de Paris i Lyons, &c., and Connections, including the Chemin 

de Per des Dombes et du Sud-£st. 

ROUTE 20. 



PAGE 

Paris to D\)on (Mont Ceuis), Lyons, Marseilles, 
Toulon, Nice, and Corsica 77 

ROUTE 20a. 

Lyons to Nlmes, by the Rive Droite 102 

ROUTE 21. 
D^on to Auxonne, Gray, Ddle, Salins, Besan- 

9on, Belfort, andMulhouse 129 

ROUTE 22. 
Paris to D^on, Ddle, Pontarlier, Neuchfttel, 

and Lausanne 131 

ROUTE 28. 
Paris to M&eon, Bourg, Chambtfry, Mont Cenis, 
and Turin ; with branches to Lyons and 

Geneva 183 

ROUTE 24. 
Lyons to St. ^tienne, Andrezieux, Montbri- 

son, and Roanne 135 

ROUTE 25. 
Lyons to Bourgoin, Grande Chartreuse, Greno- 
ble, Gap, Digne, Dragnignan, Cannes, Mica 187 



ROUTE 26. PAGB 

Grenoble to Brian^on, Turin, and Embrun ... 145 

ROUTE 27. 
Marseilles to Aix, Digue, and Draguignan ... 145 

ROUTE 28. 
Lyons to St. ^tienne, Le Puy, Mende, and 
Albl 147 

ROUTE 29. 
Valence to Livron, Privas, and Alais 150 

ROUTE 30. 
Avignon to Tarascon, Nlmes, Montpellier, 
and Cette 151 

ROUTE 81. 

Mimes to Alais, Grand Combe, Brioude, and 
Clermont-Ferrand 157 

ROUTE 82. 
Monti)ellier, up the H^rault, to Monde 159 

ROUTE 33. 
Montpellier to Lod^ve, and to Mllhau • 



.Tfiii. 



aEcmoi>T 4. 

O^emln dA Per d'OrUa&s aad OonaMltoiui {Cantre «&d Soutb W««t), IndiidlnK the 

Vend^ and Gliarentee State Lines. 

ROUTE 46. PA«B 
Paris to Vierzon, Bonrges, Nevers, Monllns, 
Vichy, Glermont-Feirand, Brioude, Alais, 
And Nimes, and Le Poy 314 



ROUTE 84. PAGK 

Parte to Sceaux, Orsay, and Limoors Ml 

ROUTE 86. 
Paris to Orltfan^ Blots, Tours, Poitiers, 

Angoiuldme, and Bordeaux 16S 

ROUTE 86. 

Tours to Angers, Nantes, and St. Nazaire 184 

ROUTES 87, 87a, 37b. 
Poitiers to Nlort, Rochelort andRochelle 191 

ROUTE 88. 
Blols to Vcndftme and Le Mans , 196 

ROUTE 89. 
Tours to Chftteau-du-Loir and Le Mans 197 

ROUTE 40. 
Angers to Segr^, Chfcteau-Gontler, Laval, 
Chftteaubriant, and Renncs 197 

ROUTE 41. 
Angers to Bre8Suire,Roche-snr-Yon, and Sables 

d' Olonne, and to Niort, through La Vendue 198 

ROUTE 42. 

Nantes to Vannes, Camac, Lorlent, Quimper, 

and Brest 199 

ROUTE 48. 

Paris to Orl<5ans, Vierzon, Chftteauronx. Limo- 
ges, P^rigueux, Agen, Cahors, Montau- 

ban, andTouUmse 204 

ROUTE 44. 

Limoges to Ptfrigueux, Coutras, Cahors, 
Montauban, and Agen 211 



ROUTE 46. 
Le Pay, past the source of the Loire to Privas, 
andtoAubenas 328 

ROUTE 47. 
Orleans, up the Loire, to Qien and Nevers .... 334 

ROUTE 48. 
Bourges to Neris-les-Baliis and Clermont- 

Feirrand. - ~ 324 

ROUTE 49 
Chftteauroux to Montlu9on .« 236 

ROUTE 60. 
Clermont-Ferrand to Bordeaux, by way of 
Ussel, Tulle, Brive, and P^rigueux 326 

ROUTE 61. 
Montlufon to Eygurande (Junction for La 
Bourboule, Le Mont Dore and Clermont- 
Ferraivd), Mauriac, and AurlUac 327 

ROUTE 63. 
Clermont-Ferrand to Toulouse, by way of 
Issoire, Rodez, Aibi, and Tessonnlbres 389 

ROUTE 68. 
Clermont-Ferrand to Thiers, Montbrison, St. 
l^tiennei and Lyons .......mm......... 383 



3EOTI03Sr e, 
diemin de Per de TEst (East) and Connections, 



ROUTE 64. PAGE 
Paris to Meaux, Bpemay, Chftlons, Nancy, 
Strasbourg, and Mtthlhausen 233 

ROUTE 66. 
ifepernay to Reims, Mdziferes, and Belgluw ... 242 

ROUTE 66. 
Blesmes to Chaumont 245 

ROUTE 67. 
Nancy to Metz 246 

ROUTE 68. 
Metz to Thionville, Montm^dy, Sedan, and 
M^zi^res 2*7 



ROUTE 69. PAOX 

Nancy to Epinal, Mulhousv, Gr»yi VASonl, and 

Besuufon 248 

ROUTE 60. 
Epinal to St. Did, the Ban de U Roche, and 

Strassburg «. .^... ...... 250 

ROUTE 61, 
Strassbur;; to Hagenau, Weissemburg, and 

Mannheim ^ 361 

ROUTE 62. 
Pans to Montereau, Troyea, Chaumont, Gray, 
Lan^'res, Bourboone-les-Bains, VesouL 
Ploiubi^res, Belfont and MnUi9use.,^.»,.. 361 



COKTBIITS. 

Chcfmln de Per dn Blldi (South) and Connections. 

ROUTE 68. PAoa 



IX. 



Bordeaux to La Teste, Arcachon, Dax, 

Bayonne, into Spain 859 

ROUTE 64. 

Moreenxto Molit-de-Mftrsaii, St. Sever, Tarbes, 
Bagn^res-de Bi|rorre, Pic-du-MIdi, Ac. ... 268 

ROUTE 66. 

Bayonne (or Dax) to Orthez, Pan, Eaux-^Bonnes, 
Ac. Lourdes and Pierrefitte for Oauterets, 
Lnz, St. Sanveur, Bareges, Ac 266 

ROUTE 66. 

Bordeaux, np the Oaronne, to Agen, Mont- 
anboh, Toulouse, Carcassonne, Narbonne, 
B^xlars, and Cette 878 



ROUTE 67. FAOi 

Toulouse to Muret, St. Oaudens, Bagn%res-de- 
Luchon and the Maladetta, and Tarbes ... 889 

ROUTE 68. 
Toulouse to Saverdun, Foix, Tarascon, Ax, 
Into Spain ^ 292 

ROUTE 69. 
Narbonne to Pergignan, and Spain 298 

ROUTE €9A. 
Perpignan, into Spain, by the high road, vii 

Bellegarde .„ 29ft 

ROUTE 698. 
Up the Tech, by C^ret and Am^lie-les-Bains... 29£ 

ROUTE 69c. 
Up the Tet, by Prades and Mont-Louis to 
Puycerda 296 



r AOB FAGB 

Map of France in Pocket 

Plan of Lyons^^ ^^..v.. 96 

„ Paris ., fy 

Abbeville « ^ 6 

Avignon 116 

Gandebeo .«44.«.4...<.«i<.« ov.'^n 6 

Chfttean de FontaineUeau .' 78 

Clermont Ix. 



fa<;b paqk 
Honfleur ., 6 

Lyons 116 

Marseilles 116 

Paris* Ix. 

Park of St. Cloud Ix. 

Pass of Voiron 78 

Pire La Chaise 78 

Rouen .< 6 



• •• ••*■«• 



■/ 



INDEX. 

*** Chief Towns (Prefectures) and Sous-Prefectures are distinguished by having 
the name of the department placed after them in parenthesis. 



PAOK 

Abancoart 6, 7, 8 

Abbajre 238 

Abbeville (Somme) 6 

Ablon 163 

Acoons 270 

Ach^res 288 

Achiet 15, 20 

Acoa Mills 28 

Acqnes 15 

Acquiny 45, 167 

Ad^ « 271 

Agray 141 

Agde 288 

Agen (Lot^t-Oaronne) ...214, 275 

Agincourt 5 

Ai, or Ay 242 

AlgrefeuiUe 192 

Aigaebelle 135 

Aigaeperse 220 

Aigues-Mortes 154 

Aigues-YlTes 154 

Aiguille 189 

Algaillon 275 

Allle-Villers 249, 257 

AUly 7 

Ailly-8ur-Noye 9 

Aimargnies 154 

Aln 106 

Aire 12, 264 

Alrel 52 

Airrault 186, 199 

Aisy-8iir-Armen9on, orsons- 

Rongemont 86 

Aix {Bouches-du-Rh&ne) 128, 146 

Alx-d'Angillon .". 214 

Aixe-sor-Vienne 208 

Alz-en-Othe Villemanr 254 

AXxAen-BaAxi^ (Savoie) 134 

AJaccio 128 

Alais {Qard) 151, 155, 15S 

Alando 126 

Albaii 149 

Albens 134 

Albert 15 

AlbertviUe 185 

Albi {Tam) 149, 281 

Albigny 96 

Alenoon {Ome) 70 

Alet 285 

Alfort 77 

Aliae Ste. Reine 87 

AUan 108 



PAGK 

Allanch 121 

Alievard-les -Bains 139 

Alleyras 159 

AUier 2-1 

AllouvlUe 41 

Almen^ches 69, 71 

Aloxe 90 

Altkirch iffaut-Rhin) 258 

Alzan 284 

Alzonne 284 

Amagne-Lncquy 244 

Amanvillers 238 

Amarnier 224 

Ambazac 207 

Amb^rieu 102, 133 

Ambert (/H«y-rf«-2)dm«)...219, 232 

Ambierle 222 

Ambletease 3 

Amboise 169 

Ambri^res 62 

Ambronay 133 

Am^ie-les- Bains 295 

Amiens QSomne) 7, 88 

Amon 267 

Ampnis 104 

Ancenis (Loire InfhHeureJ ... 188 

Ancey-le-Franc 86 

Ancone 109 

Andance 103 

Andancette 106 

Andaya 263 

Andelot 181, 246 

Andelys, Les (Sure) 35 

AndiUy 239, r56 

Andorre 293 

Andrest 264 

Andr^zieux 186 

Anduze 166, 167 

Anet 36 

Angers {Maine-et-LoireJ...6l, 186 

Angerville 165 

Anglare 253 

AngovlimefCharenteJ 177 

Aniane 167 

Anizy-Pinon 23 

Anjony, Chftteau of 228 

Annecy 184 

Annemasse 186 

Annonay 106, 136 

Annot 140 

Anor 24 

Ansa 95 



PAGK 

Antibes 143 

Antony 162 

Antrain 73 

Anvin 15 

Aonste 108 

Apchon Castle 219 

Apilly 19 

Appeville 46 

Apt (VaucluseJ 114, 147 

Arbanats 273 

Arbois 102, 130 

Arcachon 260, 274 

Ar9ay 185 

Arc-en-Barois 255 

Arches 249, 254 

Arcis-sar-Aube (AubeJ...iS7, 253 

Arconville 25.'> 

Arc-Senans 129 

Arcaeil-Cachan 161 

Arcy-sur-Cure 84 

Ardennes, Forest of 244 

Ardentes 226 

Ardos 270 

Ardres 11 

Arengosse 268 

Argagnon 267 

ArgeMs 271 

Arg^l^s-sur-Mer 294 

Argences 47 

Argentan f Om«^ 69, 71 

Argentat 227 

Argenteull 25. 37 

Argenton 176, 206 

Argenton-le-Chfttean 199 

Argentr^ 63 

Arjnznnx 263 

Arlanc 21S 

Arlay Castle 102 

Aries {Bouches-du-RMne) ... 114 

Arlcs-snr-Tpch 295 

Armenti^res is 

Am 24 

Amage 197 

Amay-le-Duc 91 

Ameeke 17 

Arpajon 159, 164, 280 

Arques Castle 28 

Arqaes (Pa$-de-CalaU) 11, 28 

Arragon 229 

Arragnouet 292 

Arras fPas-de-Caiais) 6, 8, 12, 14 
Arreau 292 



tXt>fi<« 



A 



iriiif 



..14) 
. (' 

. i; 
].' 

18.5 

!.>3 
'.>5 

m 

14 
!6 

1 

n 




Arreni ....M,.«*a.;M»i.t**i* S71 

Arremftnefaes .-.v.; 49 

kn, or Arehefl-aur-Moselle.. 247 

Arsenval Jftueonrt ..-. 255 

Artemftrt. .->..;..■.-.... 184 

Aftenay 165 

Artlques 290 

Artix 267 

Arrant 228, 229 

Arveyres 179 

Arzembouy 85 

Aaasp 270 

Asnelles 49 

Asni^res 26, 87, 42 

Awat 270 

Assier 22S 

Astaffbrt 276 

Athis-Mons 168 

Attichy 19 

Atti^iy 244 

Attignat 188 

Attila's Camp 237 

Aubagne 121 

Aubazine 227 

Aubenas 160, 224 

Ailbervllliera 10 

Aubeterre 178 

Aubiet 277 

Aabignaa 149, 150 

Aubigntf 197 

Attbigny 204 

Aabi^y (Arras) 16 

Aubin 210 

AnbviMon (Gretue) 207 

Anch 276 

Abdriea 4d 

Audreicq I } 

Audmi le Roman 2<7 

Autfay 28 

Auhiat 23-i 

Aulnay-les-Bondy 22, 238 

Anlnoifl 289 

Aulpoye 18, 22 

Aulus-lcs-Balns ;.... 290 

Aumale 6 

Auneau 56, 58, 69, 164 

Auneil 35 

Anray ...■ 201 

Awrec .::;:;: 147 

Aurillac (eantai) 209, 229 

Auterire 292 

AiUeail ;..;; 44 

Anteviello 2^7 

Autnn (Sadne-et-Loire) ...84, 91 

Auvcrs ; 26 

Aiixerre (Vonne) 83 

Auxonne 129, 256 

Auzanccs 2*27 

Ayallles ;i ;;;; 176 

Avallon •...;.... i-.-....; 84 

Avcnay v* *■* ' 

Avenue dH Boia de Boalog>no 44 
Avcsneq (Xord) , ,.,., 22 



. PiGK. I 

AVtgrnon fVauehue) 112, 151 

Avlj^onct 28? ' 

Aviothe ;.....»,. 247 

Avize... ...................281?, 253 

Avoise 61 

ATord 216 

Ayranchcs Cifancftc^ 52, 70 

Ayricourt 2i2 

Avrij?nv 9, 18, 19 

Avrilld 197 

Avrllly 69 

Ax 293 

Axat 285 

Ay ; 212 

Azay-le-Ridcan ;.... 172 

Azun Pass 271 



Baccarat .241, 251 

Baccunni^re, La... 73 

Bagneaux ;.161, 264 

Ba^feres-de-Bigorrc (Hautes 

Pyi'enees) 265 

Bag-nferes-dc-Luchon ,. 290 

Bagneux 185, 254 

Bagnoles de rOm6 72 

Bagnols Ift9 

IJagnols-snr-Cfeze...:;;;. ;.;.... l04 

Baiprts 267 

Baillargucs ; ;.; 156 

Bftillcul ;.... li 

Bains-les-Bains, or Bains ... 249 

Baix 108 

Balaga, Plain of 127 

Balbigny 187 

Ballon 70 

Ballon d' Alsace 249 

Ballon de Guebwiller 249 

Banassac-la-Canourgue 149 

Ban de la Roche 251 

Bannalec 20!> 

Banyuls-sur-Mer 295 

Hapaume 15, 29 

Barbaste 275 

Barbentane 114 

Barberey 258 

Barbezleux (Charente) 178 

Barcelona 295 

Barcelonnette (Basses Alpes) 140 

Barfe?es 272 

Barentin 41 

Hai-ncur 50 

Barjac 149 

BarJMls 147 

Bar-le-Duc (Meuse) 238 

Baroncourt 247 

Barrcmo 141 

Barsac 278 

Bar-sur-Aitbe (AuHe) 266 

I ^ar-8Qr-9oin« Mi<6e> 86, 264 

Baa Erette .;...«.; ;..«.,».. 967 

I Bi^aO'lu^ ..«.*«M >«*«*< 191 



Bas-llt>nlstix>t .................. 147 

Bastia (Ccrsiea) 12« 

Ba^tide Fortnnihre, La 213 

Batignolles, Les ......; 88, 4^ 

Batilly 288 

Batz 191 

Baud 201 

Baume-de-la-Coquille 288 

Bamue-Ies-Damcs 181 

IJaume-des-Vaudois 145 

Bavai 18 

Bayard's Ciiftteau 189 

ftaycux (Manehe) ;. 48 

Bayon ; 248 

Bayonnc (Bastes Fyitnees)... 262 

Bazancourt..;;;; 241 

Bazas (Gironde) 274 

BazeilleS ;;; 247 

tiazifege 283 

Bdat, St. 290 

Beaucaire 151 

Beaucfafltel ...;......;;.... 108 

Bcaucourt ..; ;;; ;.... 18} 

Beaufort 10^ 

Beaug6^ or Bangtf; ;.... 181 

Bcaugency ;. 168 

fieaujeaillcs 181 

Beaujeu 96 

Beanlieu 144, 177 

Bcnulieu-Bcrrias 161 

Beaumesnll 46 

Beaumont ....,; 216 

Bcaumont-le- Roger.; 46 

^eaumont-aur-6arthe 70 

Beaumont de Lomagnc 278 

Beaune (C6te d'Or) :... 9d 

Bennnc-La-Rolande 168 

Bcaupouyet 212 

Beaupr^au (Maine-et-LoireJ. . 1 88 

BcHurepaire 10* 

Beaurifercs 10^ 

Beausfct, Le 121 

Beautiran 275 

Bcanrais (OiseJ 6, 8, 9, 26 

Bebobla 268 

Bee Abbey ; 46 

B^darieux 149, 28? 

Bedarrides ill 

B^dous 270 

Bugles 273 

Bchobia 268 

Beillant 186, 196 

Bel Air 251 

Belfort (Haut Rhin) 131, 257 

Bellac (Hauie Vienne) 176 

Bellcgarde 132, 135, JS7, 151 

Bellcgarde (near Orleans)... 83 

Bcllegarde (Fprtnees) 296 

Belle-Ile 201 

BeUo-Isle'Bdgard, or Bello- 

Islft-en-Terre *•■ 

Bo1)«URTe .o;;i.;«.;i<ii«ti..« 
Q«U6ai9 «. MM.«...««..t 



INDEX. 

*^* Chief Towns (Prefectures) and Sons-Prefectures are distingnished by having 
the name of the department placed after them in parenthesis. 



PAOS 

Abancourt 6, 7, 8 

Abbaye 233 

Abbeville {Somme) 6 

Ablon 163 

Accons 270 

Ach^res 288 

Achiet 15, 20 

Acoz Mills 28 

Acqaes 15 

Acqainy 45, 167 

Add ^ 271 

Agay 141 

Agde 288 

Agen {Lot-et-Oaronne) ...214, 276 

Agincourt 5 

Ai, or Ay 242 

Aigrefeaille 192 

Aigaebelle 135 

Aigneperse 220 

Aignes-Mortes 154 

Algues-Vives 154 

Aiguille 189 

Aignillon 276 

Allle-Villers 249, 257 

AUly 7 

Allly-8ur-Noye 9 

Aimargues 154 

Aln 106 

Aire 12, 264 

Airel 52 

Ainrault 186, 199 

Aisy-sur-Armen^on, or sous- 

Rougemont 86 

Aix (Bouches-du-RMne) 123, 146 

Aix-d'AngUlon :. 214 

Aixe-sur-Vienne 208 

Aix-en-Othe Villemaur 254 

Aix-lea-B&ina (Savoie) 134 

Ajaccio 123 

Alais (Gard) 151, 156, 15S 

Alando 126 

Alban 149 

Albens 134 

Albert 15 

Albertville 135 

Albi (Tam) 149. 231 

Albigny 96 

Alencon (Ome) 70 

Alet 285 

Alfort 77 

AJiie Ste. Beine 87 

AllftU 108 



PAOB 

AUauch 121 

Alleyard-les -Bains 139 

AUeyras 159 

Allier 2-1 

Allouvllle 41 

Almen^ches 69, 71 

Aloxe 90 

Altkirch {Haut-Rhin) 258 

Alzan 284 

Alzonne 284 

Amagne-Lucqay 244 

Amanvillers 238 

Amarnier 224 

Ambazac 207 

Ambdrleu 102, 133 

Anibert {Puy-de^D6me)...2l% 232 

Ambierle 222 

Ambleteuse 3 

Ainboise 169 

Ambri^res 62 

Ambronay 133 

Amdlle-Ies- Bains 295 

Amiens {Somme) 7,38 

Amou 267 

Ampuls 104 

Ancenis (Loire In/erietwe) ... 188 

Ancey-le-Franc 86 

Ancone 109 

Andance 103 

Andancette 106 

Andaya 263 

Andelot 131, 246 

Andelys, Les (Ewe) 35 

Andilly 239, r 56 

Andorre 293 

Andrest 264 

Andrdzieux 136 

Anduze .166, 157 

Anet 36 

Angers (Afaine-et-LoireJ...6l, 186 

Angerville 165 

Anglure 253 

Angonlime (Charmte) 177 

Aniane 157 

Anlzy-Plnon 23 

Anjony, Chftteauof 228 

Annecy 134 

Annemasse 135 

Annonay 106, 186 

Annot 140 

Anor 24 

Anse... 95 



PAOB 

Antibes 143 

Antony 162 

Antrain 73 

Anvin 15 

Aonste 108 

Apchon Castle ...., 219 

Apilly 19 

Appeyille 46 

Apt (Vaueiuse) 114, 147 

Arbanats 273 

Arbols .....102, 130 

Arcachon 260, 274 

Ar^ay 185 

Arc-en-Barols 255 

Arches 249, 254 

Arcis-sur-Aube (Aid)eJ...2i7^ 253 

Arconville 25.'i 

Arc-Senans 129 

Arcueil-Cachan 161 

Arcy-8ur-Cure 84 

Ardennes, Forest of 244 

Ardentes 226 

Ardos 270 

Ardres 11 

Arengosse 268 

Argagrnon 267 

ArgeUs 271 

ArgeMs-sur-Mer 294 

Argences 47 

Argentan f Om«^ 69, 71 

Argentat 227 

Argenteuil 25, 37 

Argenton 176, 206 

Argenton-le-Chftteau 199 

Argentrd 63 

Arjuzanx 263 

Arlanc 219 

Arlay Castle ]02 

Aries (Boue?ieii-du~RMne) ... II4 

Arlcs-snr-Tech 296 

Armentibres 12 

Am 24 

Amage 197 

Amay-le-Duc 91 

Ameeke 17 

Arpajon 159, 164, 230 

Arques Castle 28 

Arques {Pas-de-Calais) 11, 28 

Arragon 229 

Arragnonet 292 

Arras (Pas-de-Calais) 6, 8, 12, 14 
Arreau 292 



tHDfilt. 



Xt. 



ng 



143 

]6J 
73 
15 
lOS 
219 
I? 
46 

14: 

273 
If 
2T4 
185 
2.5.5 
2.>< 
ioo 
2.55 
129 
161 

84 
244 
226 
270 

11 
263 
267 
271 
294 

47 

71 
?27 
37 
•06 
.99 

6.3 
263 

ns 

10? 

114 

295 

IJ 

24 

19? 

91 

17 



2« 



4irbmftnehes-.-.v.; 4$ 

Aft, or Awhes-sur-Mosellc. 247 

Arsonvnl jAneonrt ..-. 255 

Artemart;;v..v.-.;-.-.....; 134 

Artenfty 165 

Artlques 290 

Artix 287 

Arvaiit 228, 229 

Arveyres 179 

Arzembouy 86 

Asasp 270 

Asnclles 49 

Asniferes 26, 87, 42 

A»8at 270 

Assier 228 

Astaflfort 276 

Athis-Mons 168 

Attichy i 19 

Attigny -. 244 

Attignat «.. 188 

Allila'« Gamp...... 237 

Aubagne 121 

Anbazine 227 

Anbenas 180, 224 

AttbcrvilHers 10 

Aubeterre 178 

Aublet ..; i 277 

Aiibignas w 149, 150 

Aubign^ 197 

Attbigtiy 204 

Aubigny (Arras) 16 

Aubin ;...; 21() 

Anbusson (€V*«tMe) ; 207 

Attcta ..; -....; 276 

Alidrieu 4d 

Atidrulcq...... 1 1 

Audttn le Roman 2(7 

Autfay ; 28 

Attliiafr 23i 

Aulnay-les-Bondy '22, 238 

Attlnols 289 

Anlpoye ......;. 18, 22 

Ahlus-lcs-Bains.................. 290 

Aamale ..-..; 6 

Aaneau 56, 58, 69, 164 

Attneil 85 

Anray ..; 201 

Awrec .::-.:;:.. 147 

Auriilac (eantaf.) 209, 229 

Auterive 292 

Attteoll. .;.... ;;;:;.. ; 44 

AnteviDlle 2^7 

Autnn (Sa&ne-et-Loire) ...84, 91 

Anyers ;;...; 25 

Atixerre (Yonne) 83 

Auxoune 129, 256 

Auzances 227 

AVailles ;;. ;;;...; 176 

AyaUon -...; •.;;..; 84 

Aveuay v/ •/ ^ ' 

Afr«ime4liBeiacW&oiildgho H 
A^esneq (Notd) , ,., 22 



. PACK. 

Arlgnon fVauchtie) ......112, 151 

Avignonet .....;....;;.....;.-..... 28^) 

Aviothe ..; ...;.....».. 2i7 

AVizc... ...................28'J, 258 

Avoise 61 

Avord 216 

Arrsmchcs (Afcmcfie) 52, 70 

Arricourt 2i2 

Avrignv 9, 18, 39 

Avrill^ 197 

Avrllly 69 

Ax ;...;... 293 

Axat 285 

Ay ; 2t2 

Azay-le-Ridcnn .....;.... 172 

Azun Pass ;..; 271 



Baccarat 241, 251 

Baccunni^re, La.. 73 

Bagncaux ;.161, 254 

Bagnferes-de-Bigorrc (Hautes 

Pyrenees) .....;.....;.; 265 

Bagnferes-dc-Luchon ......... 290 

Bagneux 185, 254 

Bagnoles de rOrtt6 72 

Bslgnols 



149 
Bagnols-sur-C^zc. ..;;;;..;.... \0^ 

Balgts 287 

Balllargucs ....;.;;:-.; 155 

BaiUeul ...;.; 12 

Bains-les-Bains, or Bains ... 249 

Balx 103 

Balaga, Plain of 127 

Balbigny 137 

Ballon 70 

Ballon d' Alsace 249 

Ballon de Guebwilier 249 

Banassac-la-Canourgue 149 

Ban dc la Roche 251 

Bannalec 20? 

Banyuls-sur-Mcr 295 

Hapaume 15, 29 

Barbaste ....;........; 276 

Barbentane ; 114 

Barberey ; 253 

Barbezieux (Charenie) 178 

Barcelona 295 

Barcelonnette (Basses Alpes) 140 

Badges 272 

Barentin ; ;.; 41 

Barfleur ; 50 

Barjac 149 

Barj..ls 147 

Bar-le-Duc (Metue) 288 

Barnncourt 247 

Barremo 141 

Baraac 278 

Bar-8ur-Anbe (Aube) 2$5 

Aar.sTir-Soine CA«te> 86, 9N 

Bfts ETette .; ; M.i H? 



Bas-Monisirol ...»•..•••...... 147 

Eastia (Corsica) 12« 
jtstide Fortnnifere, La ...... 219 

Batignoiles, Les ............88, 4^ 

BatlHy 288 

Batz 191 

Baud 201 

Baurae-de-la-Coquille 288 

Baume-les-Daraes 131 

Baume-des-Vaudols 14S 

Bavai 18 

Bayard's Ciiftteau 139 

liaycux (ManeheJ :. 48 

Bayon .....; 248 

Bayonnc (Bcuses I*yren4es).., 262 

Bazanconrt..;;-.; 241 

Bazas (Gvrmde) 274 

Bazeillei ;;; 247 

fiazifegc 283 

Bi^at, St. 290 

Beaucaire 151 

Beaucbfttcl ..;...;..;;.;.... 108 

Bcaucourt .;.;....-..-. ;..;..;. 18) 

Beaufort ......;. 10^ 

Beaug4, or Baug^;. ...;.. .-.;.... 18^ 

Beaugency 168 

^eaujeailles -. 131 

Bcaujeu 9^ 

Beaulieu 144, 17f 

Bcuuiicu-Bcn*ias 151 

Beaumesnti 46 

Beaumont ....,;... 21$ 

tieaumont-lc- Roger.; 45 
eaumont-sur-Sarthe 70 

Beaumont de Lomagnc 278 

BeaunerC«5<c(fO»'J 9d 

Beaunc-La-Rolande le^ 

Beaupouyet 212 

Beaupr^au (Maine-et-LoireJ. . 188 

Bcaurepairo 10^ 

Beauribres 10^ 

Beauspct, Le 121 

Beautiran 27^ 

Beauvais fO»««; .;; 6, 8, 9, 2^ 

Bebobia 26? 

Bee Abbey ....;...; <|B 

Bddarieux 149, 28^ 

Bedarrldes ; ill 

B^dous ; 270 

Bugles 278 

Bebobia 268 

Beillant 186, 19^ 

Bel Air 251 

Belfort (HautRMn) 131, 267 

BoW&fi (Hauie Vienne) 17« 

Bellegarde 132, 136, JS7, 151 

Bellcgarde (near OrleanR)... 83 

Bellegarde (Pyrenees) 296 

Bello-Ile , 201 

Belle-Isle-B^gard, or Bello- 
Isl<)-on>Terre ..«.......,;. 6f 



PXQtt 

Boll^ville 95, 28x 

Belleville Veiidde.A.....i 190 

Hellcvue 54, 147 

lielley 64»«j 131, 137 

Uelvfes 213 

Bcrnt 19* 

JJenevent 206 

IJcngy-sur-Craon 216 

ltenoit-(lc-Saut 206 

IJerck-sur-Mcr 6 

Rcrcy 77 

hcTiSi^r&cCDordogne) 179,212, 274 

Uer;;ues 17 

Bert^uette 11 

Bernac Deb(it 2C5 

BcrDay (Eure) 46 

Btirnis 154 

Bcrny 162 

Bene 116 

Bcrsac 176, 206 

Itertincuuit 19 

Berrry 21 

Bdruges 175 

Berzy 23 

Bo8an9on (Doubs) 12, 130 

Besld 65 

Bessan 2S8 

Bessay 81, 218 

Besse 227 

Bessbges 150, 153 

Bcsscnay 137 

Bcss^-sur-Braye 68, 196, 197 

Bdthciilville 244 

\\6\\i\\\\e(Pas-de'Ca'ais) ...7, 12 

Bottoii 73 

Beutiti 5 

Beuzeville-Br^aute 40 

Itcynost 133 

Bovnac 208 

B^zeuet 225 

Bdzicrs (llerauH) 287 

Bezons 37 

Biarritz 2G3 

Blcgtre 162 

BMassoa 263 

'Bitfouttine 250 

Bli^orre 265 

Bijfuglla 126 

nUlom 232 

Biron 213 

»>iK}<lt}re8 47 

lii/o 2S7 

Bla^rny 247 

Blainvlllc-la-Grande 241, 248 

Jilaisv runnel 87 

Blambnt 242 

Jium 284 

lllaMc. Le (Indre) 206 

Blanc-Miascron 18 

jilangy-sur-Ternoiae 6 

Blaaquefort , 188 

Blaye (Oirmde) ,..., JSO. 195 

^lAiila ..,.MMtM..MM.*« 999 



PAGB 

Blosmes 238 

y^ldis (Loi7'-et-CherJ 168 

Bocog^nano 125 

Boeii 232 

Bohaiii 21 

Boileux 15 

Hois de Boulogne 44 

Bols de Lihus 9, 18 

Bois-lc-Roi 79 

Hois-sire-Aiu)^ 216 

Boisset Pacy 44 

Boissy St. Leger 78, 2ol 

Bolbec 40 

Bollfene 110 

Bologne 246 

Bondy 233 

Bon lilnconti*e 276 

Bonifacio 128 

Bonneinain 73 

Bonndtable 69 

Bonneval ..68, 164 

Bonneville 134 

Bonneville Castle 61 

Bonneville, La 45 

Bonni^res 36 

Bonson 13b', 232 

BOoSllhen 271 

Bordeaux (Girwide) 1 80 

Bordeaux St. Clair 35 

Borgo 126 

Bort 229 

Bososte 290 

Bosse. La 35 

Bossenno 201 

Bouaye 190 

Boucau, Le 261 

Bouchain 21 

Boucoiran 158 

Bouille 52 

Bonjailles 131 

Bouj m-Neffids 288 

Boulau, Le 295 

Bouleternfere 296 

Boullay-les-Troux 162 

Boulo<?ne-sur-Mer (Pas-dc- 

Calais) 3 

Bouloire 196 

Bouray 165 

Bourbon-Bussct Ch&teau ... 220 

Bourbon rArchanibault 225 

Bourbon-Lancy 225 

iiourbonne-les-Bains 250 

Bourboule 2i8 

Bourbourg '5 

Bourj,' 90, 102, 133 

Uourg-St. Anddol 104 

Bour;,'-Ar^'Gntal 106, 130 

Hourg d'Ault 6 

Bourg-Dun 40 

Bourg-Madatno 286, 296 

Bourg Mont Oon^vre 146 

Bourg d*Oisan& ,. 146 

BoHrg-lf^-|^e|n^ , ..„„, 161 



IfkQt 

Bmvrg^-le-Roy 4<«4* 70 

Ilourganenf {Haute Vtenne}... 20T 

Bourges (Chei) 214 

Bourget, Le 22 

Bourgeuil 184 

Bourglastic 217, 225 

Bourgneuf 190 

Bourgoin 106, 137 

Bourmont St. Blain 246 

Bouriiezcau 199 

Bourzarchard 62 

Bousquet 149 

Boussac (Creiue) 226 

Boussay 173 

Boussens 289 

Bout-du-Monde 91 

Bouvantc 107 

Bouvcret 135 

Boves 8 

Bozzo 126 

Brain 185 

Braisne 23, 244 

Braisne-sur-Vesle 236 

Bram 28k 

Rrantome 211 

Bras«ac 223 

Broant^ 40 

Brbche de Roland 273 

Brbdc, La 273 

Br^e 62 

Brenguc* 228 

Bressuire (Deux Sevres) 199 

Brest (finistere) 68 

Breteuil 9 

Bretigny 164 

Bretoncclles 69 

Bretteville 48 

Breuil 47 

Breuil le Sec 9 

Breuil-Romain 244 

Breuillet 16* 

Breval 44 

Brian^on (Ilautes-Alpes) 140,, 145 

Briantes 226 

Briare 81 

Bricon 254, 256 

Brides-led-Bains lo6 

Brie 234 

Brie-C« ante-Robert 78, 251 

Brienne 246, 255 

Brienon 86 

Briey 238, 247 

Bri<rnolcs 123 

Brignoud 139 

Brimbal Hill 70 

Brin 241 

Brionnc 46 

Brion-sur-Ource 254 

Brioude (Haute-Loire) ...159, 228 

Brioux 176 

Briouze < 69 

Briquebec 49 

Brlvo (Q<»rrh«) 908, 909, %%} 



fAGR 

Brlve-CharetiBac 223 

Broglie : 46 

Broons ....« 66 

Bro^vilie 167 

Brou .....68, 183 

Bruai 17 

Bruniqael 210 

Bniiioy 78 

Brussels 18, 22 

Bruyferes 242, 260 

Buc 66 

Bucey'les-Gy 256 

Bueil 44, 167 

Buglose 260 

Buisson, Le 210 

Baisson-Rdan 224 

Bally-Grenay 12 

Bares 28 

Barthdcourt 241 

Busigny 21 

Bossangr 249 

Busseau-d'Ahun .« 207 

Bussi^re-Galant 211 

Bat de St. Genie ...... ... 108 

Bazancy 244 

Bazy 269 

Byaus 103 



Cabannes 293 

Cabbd Roqaebrune 144 

Cabonrg 47, 61 

Cabrioales 291 

Gadaujac 278 

Cad^ac 292 

Cadenet 114 

Gaderousse.. Ill 

Cadillac ^ 278 

Ctien (OalvadosJ 47 

Gaffiers 8 

Cahors 208, 210, 218 

Cahazac 211 

Cftissargues 164 

Caiarc 210 

Galais (Fiu-de-CalaUJ 1 

Galvados 47 

Calvl (CoruJ 127 

Gambo 268 

Camboarey 43 

Gambral (NordJ 9, 21 

Campan 266 

Gamprranc 270 

Gamp Major 121 

Gampredon 296 

Gamps 141 

Canal da Midi, or da Lang^e- 

doc ,. ,.... 282 

Canal Lateral 388 



tHDBX. 

 • • 

PAGK 

Oanauley •. 269 

Gancale, or GancaUe ^ 76 

Candes 184 

Cannes 141 

Canon 47 

Canteloa 29 

Cany 41 

Capdenac 210 

Capo Breton 261 

Cape Corso 127 

Cape de Caux.... 40 

CapeFrdhel 66 

Cape La Hague 61 

Cape La Hdve 89 

Capenda 286 

Cap Ferret 260 

Capvem 291 

Carazzi 126 

Carbonne 289 

Carcassonne C^ttcfeJ 284 

Cardallhac 210 

Cardinerie, The..... 176 

Carennac... 209 

Carentan 49 

Carghese 127 

Carhaix ...67, 208 

Carignan 247 

Carlat 292 

Carmaux 231, 284 

Camac, or ELamac 201 

Camooles 123, 144 

Carpentras {Vaueltue) Ill 

Garvin 12, 14 

Cassagnas 168 

Cassel 17 

Casseuil 274 

Cassis 121 

Casteljaloax 264, 274 

Castellane (Basset-Alpes) 141 

Castelnaudary (Aude)... 281, 283 

Castelnau 188, 264 

Castelnau-d'Estretefonds ... 279 
Castel-Sarrasin (Tarn-et- 

Garonne) 277 

Castera-Verdaza 276 

Castes Ch&teau 266, 274 

Castets 260 

Castex-Lectoarois 276 

CastUlo d'Anso 270 

Castillon 179 

Castres (Tarn) 231, 284 

Cateau, Le 22 

Catillon 22 

Cattenibres 21 

Caudebec 41 

Caudos 260 

Caadray 21 

Caodrot 274 

Caulalncourt 21 

Canines 66 

Caomont «.•..•».. 289 

Caonei 286 

gi(«8lli4« MM m..m908| 314 



Xiii. 

» • 
« . 

PAGB 

Cannes, The 149, 160 

Cauterets ..«...4....^....; 27) 

Cavaillon 113 

Cavignac 190, 199 

Caycux 6 

Cazaax 260 

Gazbres-sar-rAdour 264 

Cazerll 291 

Cazoul^ 208 

Cazouls-les-Bcziers 288 

Celntry ,.^ 241 

Celon 206 

Celle Neuve Church • 160 

Celles-sur-Belie 170 

C^nievi^rea. 328 

Cenons 378 

Cerb^re ^ 296 

Cercottes 166 

CercylaTour 93 

Cerdon 131 

Ceret 396 

Cerizay 199 

Cesaenon 388 

Cessieu 137 

Cesson 78 

Cette (HStxtult) 167, 289 

Cevennes Mountains 148 

Chabanais 308 

Chabenet 206 

Chabestan 140 

Chablis 83 

Chftbons 187 

Ghacornac 148 

Chagny « 91 

Chailvet-Urcel 28 

Chaize-le-Vicomte 199 

Chalabre, La 286 

Chalais 178 

Chalindrey 289, 266 

Challana 190, 191 

Chalonnes 188, 198 

Chalons 8, 226 

Ch&lons-sar-Mame, or ChA- 

lons (Mame) ,. 286 

Ch&lon-sur-Sadne, or Ch&> 

Ion (Sa6ne-et-Loire) 92, 103 

Chains 211 

Chamaraude ]66 

Chamb<$ry 134 

Chamblet-Neris 224 

Chamblcy 246 

Chambly 8 

Chambols as 

Chambon 192 

Chambord 168 

Chamborigaud ]69 

Chambrey 241 

Chamonlx 134 

Chamousset 185 

Champagnac 149, 211 

Champagne 26, 106 

Cbampagney 967 

C^ampa^nole ..t.,.«...«»^l''' 



r 



xir. 

. . -"'MOB , 

CItftmpanbMrt ..,.*...•.. „,.. 289 I 

l^hampeau t9 

Ctempdeniars 199 

Ohampigny 251 

GhampUlier-Urciers 226 

Champlitte -, 2d6 

Champs ., ft9 

Champs>de-Brach, Les 226 

Champtoce, or Ghamptocean ] 8f) 

Champyaiis « 129 

Chancy ..%«. 1S5 

Chan^is ........i...v i..i 284 

Chaniera 195 

Chanienay «. 191 

ChantUly 9 

Chantonnay. 199 

Chantraines  ,..., 246 

Chaoarce........... 254 

Charentev or Tonnay-<Cbar> 

ente 194 

Charentonrle-Fout 77 

CharleioL. .... 23 

Charleval 84 

CharleviUe 244, 245 

Ghaimaut > 178 

GhanuoB ».i 107, 248 

Charmoni < » 287 

Charmoy 256 

ChaiTQ]le»{aadnaret^Loire)„, 94 

Oharroux. 176 

Chartrea CEtwe^t-Loir) 67 

Gbartreuae, La Qcande 188 

Ohaue 106, 185 

Cfaassenettli » 174 

Ch&teaubourg .64, 105 

Ohftteaubriant (Loirt*It\feH- 

9ure) 68, 198 

Cbftteau do Belleville... 248 

Cb&teau de.Basy-Rabatin..i 87 

Gbateau Cbalou — 102 

Cb&teau deChambord 168 

Chateau de Chanteloup ...... 170 

Cb&teau de Chenevifere ...... 81 

Chftteau-Cbinon ri^<evr0> ... 87 

Cb&teiiu d'Ett..^ ^ 14 

Cb&teau Gailiard 165 

Cbftteau-Gontler 198 

Chateau de Grignan 109 

Ch&tfiaUrXiflfitte 188 

Cb&teau Lan don 80 

Ch&tBau-LayalU^re «8, 197 

OhftteAU-du-Loir 68, 197 

Gb&teau Londenne 188 

Chftteau-^fargaux 188 

Obftteo^UL-Porcieu 244 

Ch&teau-Henault 165^ 184 

Obftteau-HenArd 4..<i. 88 

Ob&teau de9 Rocbers 68 

Cbftteau-Salins (Meurihe) ... 241 

C^Ateau-de-la-Source 204 

Cbftteau-Thionr 28, 285, 868 

Cb&tea^ d-Urcv....u»M4.4..o4« 88 
VUain 264, 266 



IKD1SX. 

Ch&teai|.YqnMn.%..»wi....l8«, 274 

Chftteaudun ..i.4....4.*..«. 164 

Ch&teaudun (Eure-et-Leif). 68 

Ch&teanlin w.w^ 203 

ChateaumeiHant 226 

Ch&teauneuf (near Del) ...... 76 

Chftteauneuf-aiir-Charenie . 177 

Chftteaunenf-8ur-Gher 224 

Chateaunouf-le-Faou 203 

Ch&teanneuf-sur-Loil'o 2^14 

Ch&teauneuf -du-Pape Ill 

Ch&teaanonMe-Randon ...... 148 

Ch&teauneuf-du-RbOne 109 

Ch&teauroux (Inirt) ...172, 206 

Chfttelaudron ...».,..*.. 66 

Ch&teldon ..«.««»...« 220 

Cbateley , 129 

Chfttelgnyon ...». 921 

Gh&telineau i. 23 

Ch&tellerault rF»«im«; ...... 178 

Cb&tei Nomexy...!...; 248 

Chfttcuay...........^....r..« 962 

Cb&tenoii 289 

Chfttillon i>102, 134 

Ch&tillon-en-Vendelaia .....t 68 

Cb&tillon St Aublu 199 

Ch&tillon-«urrIndrc 179 

Cbfttillon-aur-Loing 81 

Ch&tillou - sur- Beiua (C6tt 

(fOt) 86, 163, 864 

Ch&tillon*8Ur-fibT]re....w.ui.. 199 

Chatou i44i 48 

Chaudes-Aigues . ......4.4.44,.. 880 

Chaulnes 8, 9 

Ohaumont ....4. .4.. 246 

Chauinont Cbftteau 4.. 204 

Chaumont-Bur-Loire k.4«4.44. 169 

Chauuiout-OiBe 4».. 25 

Ohaumont, or Chaumont-en^ 

Bh6Bignj.(ffof*te Mame) 25) 

Chauny 19 

ChauTency 247 

Chaux-les-rassavAnt .....4.44 131 

GhaTagne-les.-Redoux 199 

Chavanaj' 103 

Chavenon 225 

Chaville ....> 4. 64 

Cbavomay m... 181 

Ch^cy. 4... 224 

Cbef-Boutonne 176 

Chef-du-Pont 49 

Ghelles-aoumay 238 

Chemazd 4 4. 198 

Chemilly 83, 108 

Gheneiaiilcs. .4... 207 

Chenonceaux.............. 178 

GhenOve .444* 90 

Cherbourg /i/aDc/^> ..t4..4.4 49 

Cberrou:;:. 444 176 

Gb€ry ».4«4t4 206 

Cbettei (Grenoble) 4tt 189 

CbeTUlQ<i,«..MM4.,M,..M.kM«u«kSHe 
CbevlUy , 166 



Ch^vrdiitoai -, ,.., 95i 

CheyreuM ..» 56^ 16-9 

Chbyla8,Le 4.......i.i.4.. 189 

Ghezy-l'Abbaye 286 

Chinm (Indre-et-Loire) 172, 184 

Cbocques »-, 19 

Gboisy-lo-Roi 163 

Cholet,orChollet 198 

GborgeB 140 

Chouzy V 160 

Chouze-sur-Loire, La, or La 
Chapelle-sur^Loire ......... 184 

Gierp. 294 

Glnq Mars v 184 

Cintegabelle 29i 

Cire 19« 

Cirey ....*., 249 

Cirey Cbtteau 255 

Cirque de Gavamie 278 

Cirque A9. Troumonse. « 279 

Cirque de Vignemale 278 

Citcanx Abbey 90 

Cirray (Fw»«m;..4 176 

Clacy-Mons 88 

Glairmarais Abbey ............ 8 

Clairvaux ,.........,..., 95ft 

Glamart-sous-Meudon 68 

Glamecy (JVUvreJ 86 

Clan 174 

Claye 233 

Clelles 139 

Clferes 8, 28, 33 



Clermont, 



188 



Clermont-en^Aiigontlo 287 

Clermont > Feirand (Puy - ife- 

DQtne) 209, 221, 225 

Clermont L'H^anlt...«....4i.4 160 

Clermont.OiBe(0»Mi> 9 

ClervaU 181 

Clfery-suF- Loire, r.. 167 

Clicby-la-Garcnne 87 

Clignaacourt .«>«. 10 

Clisson.^ ^ .« 4.. 100 

Clocbeville & 

Cloyes : 164 

v^iuses .....«*.... ^v.... ............ iv4 

Cluny n^.,. 94 

Coarraze.JNay 270 

Codolct 110 

CogTOic (Charente)^ 178, 196 

Colayrac 276 

Got deCioix Haute 189 

Col de Lauteret Ji$ 

V^Ol d wO ...............rv.w........ «vl 

Col de Perthsa 29t 

Col de Puymaurins 29ft 

Coligny 109 

Collioure 294 

Colloogesr^<#^ 44.4.4 183, 18« 

CoUonges. CCdterd'Or) ,......4» 129 

OoUongea-FontAinOt 4*4 • 0t 

Colmtu;/ir(ittt«i!ft<«).w..»...«. HM 
Cologne u............ 93 



IKDBX. 



ZY. 



PAQS 

Cokman .141, 144 

Colorabes •« ..«......t..r*9*^ 97 

Colombey-les-Bellea 989 

Ck>l(>mbi«r 967 

ColQmiers ...,, 277 

Combleaux. 224 

Combuurg 78 

Comhr^ 19S 

Combs-la-Ville 78 

Commentry < 225 

Coiumpqniers 190 

Coqunercy (HfeuteJ 239 

Complbgne (OiseJ^ ^...,. 18 

Concarneau 202 

Conches 45 

Concicux 250 

Cond^ 18 

Oond^-cn-Bric 135 

Cond^-sar-Huis.Qe ......^ 59 

Cond^-sur-Noircau 69 

Condom (Gen) 27.5 

Condottc 14 

Cendrieu 102, 238, 250 

Conflans 87, 77 

Oonjaans-Jarny ..s. 238, 246 

Con flans- Variguey 250 

ConfoleixB (Chareniej 208 

Coolie 61 

Counerr^ 60, 196 

Cons-la-GranYille 247 

Contrex^vUle i 239 

Conty 1. 8 

CovbelKSeine-et'OUeJ. 168 

CorbehexB ..« 14 

Corbie .«........••.......• ..••• 15 

Corbigny .» 85 

Cordemais 191 

Cordouan, Tour de 183 

Corgoloio... 90 

Comas ....I........ 106 

Comll 227 

Corniiuont 249 

Corps 140 

Corps Nudi.........,.*...... 198 

Corsavy 295 

Cora^ul .«... 74 

Corsica, or Qorse 123 

Corte , 126 

Cosne ....................81. 224 

Cotcau, Le 187 

C6te St. Amand 220 

Coucy Castle, or Coaey-le- 

Ch&tcau 19 

Coacy-Lea Eppea 24 

Coudes 222 

Coudreaux 58 

Cooeron , 191 

Couhe Verac 176 

CouiUy 284 

Coaiza-Montaji, 285 

Cottlfuag«a-a«i^Yt>BBe ...i..... 85 

Colli ibcBuf •.M.M.......U...*.... VI 

CoalilliCtn M.HtvatiMUMttatitir -116 



PAGE 

Ooulomblers 191 

Conlommiera . (Seined- 

Mame) 2S4, 251 

Coulongea 199 

Cour-Vesdun 226 

Courban 254 

CourbeToie 42 

Courfais 226 

Coarcelles 85, 44 

Coarccllea sur-Blaiso 246 

Courpalaia 251 

Coursan 287 

Gouraealles 48 

Conrtalaln 58 

Courtenay 81 

Gourthdzon Ill 

Gourtisols 287 

Courtry 219, 232 

Courty 219 

CourvUle 58 

Coutancea flfanc/iej 50, 52 

Couterne 72 

Coutras 178, 212 

CouvUle 49 

Couzlera Chftteau 172 

Couze 212 

Couzon ..96, 186 

Co^ea 194 

Cranaac 210 

Craon 68, 197, 196 

Cravant 84 

Creches 96 

Crdchy 218 

Crdcy (near Eably) 284 

Crdcy-sur-Serxe 6, 24 

CreU , i.9, 25 

Crdpy-Gonvron 24 

Crdpy-cn-Valoia 22 

Crdcy-en-l*onthieu 7 

Cressat 207 

Crest ,. 108 

Crfe.vecoeur 8, 26 

Crdvenay Saulx 257 

Crocq ,.., 207 

Croisette 18 

Crolslc 191 

Croix 5 

Cro>x d* Hina,... 259 

Crosne 78 

Crotoy (Le> 6 

Croutelle 191 

Croay 23 

Crozes 105 

Cruas 108 

Crussol Chateau 107 

Cubzao 180, 190 

Cuers 128 

Cuiseaux 98, 102 

Oulaerev 188 

Cnlan.... 226 

Culmont-Cbalindrey 256 

Culoz 184 



Cytoiflg 



pAoa 
.. 18 



Dainvilla > 

Damerancoort Castle 96 

Damery-Bousault 9U 

Daramartiu-Juilly 99 

Dampierre 56, 184 

Damville 45, 59 

Dange 178 

Dannemarie 130, 258 

Daroey ^ 87 

Dametal 8, 88 

Dax (Lcmdu) 26Q 

Deauville 51 

Decazeville..... 210 

Decize 92 

Delle 181 

Ddmange-aax-£aux 288 

Denaia 17, 91 

Deols or Bourg-Dieu Abbey 205 

Dercy-Mortler 24 

Derval 198 

Deutsoh-Ayricourt 242 

Deville 29, W5 

Deyclmont 250 

D'Y^rca, L'Abbaye 78 

Dlarville 241 

Die, or St, Die {Drdme) 108 

Diedenhofen 247 

Dieppe 6, 27 

Dieu-lc-Fit 108 

Dieulouard 246 

Dienpentale 278 

Digno (BetMes-AlpesJ 140, 147 

Dlgoin 99 

Dijon (Cdts if Or) 88, 129 

Dinan (C6tei-du-Nord) 74 

Diiiant ; 245 

Dinard :. 75 

Dinoz^ 249 

Dissais 174 

Dissay-sona Coareillon / 197 

Dives , 47, 51 

DiTonne-les-Baina 182 

Docelles 250 

Dol 78 

Dole (Jura) 129 

Dollon Cromlech ' 60 

Dombasle 287 

Dombes Rail 102 

Domfront fOriM^ 72 

Domfi-ont-en>Champagne ... 61 

Domncartin 246 

Dompierre 196 

Donu-emy-Ia-Facelle 289 

Donchery 248 

DoBges 191 

Donnazac 211 

Donnery 167 

Donz^re r 

DOf»t, l««,„»,«M««t*«MMII*V 



avi. 



INDEX. 



>AOI 

Dormans 2'S6 

DormeiUease Peak 146 

Domes 217 

Donal (ITord) 14 

Doivarneixez 208 

Doubs, The 182 

DoudevlUe 41 

Dou^-lA-Fontoine « 186, 187 

Douhet 194 

DouIevant-lo-Ch&teau 246 

DouIlens,orDoulQn8f5omiiMt)7, 8 

Dourdan ...ft IM 

Douyrcs v..<... 48 

Douxnoux .., , 249 

Douzy f 247 

Doyet-la-jPresle 225 

Do^ul^-Putot .........47, 48 

Draguignan rVar;...123, 141, 147 

Draveil 162 

Oreail-I^s-Amiens 7 

Drcax (Ewrt) 84, fi7, 69, 164 

Drevant 224 

Droux 176 

Dan-DoulcQn 2o8 

Dunkirk, or DuiiKerque 

(Nord) 11, 16 

Duravcl 213 



Eaqbonne 11 

Eaux-Boiines, or Algues- 

Bonncs 270 

Eaux-Chaudes, or Algues- 

Chaudcs 270 

Eauze 276 

KbUUnsrhem II 

Echellcs-de-Savoio, Lcs 137 

Eclaron 246 

Eco;nmoy 197 

Ecoueu 11 

Ecouviez.... ^.... 946 

Effi;\t Ch&tQau 220 

Egl^tons ...M 226 

: EiTUTlon 206 

EIuYaux 248 

"EWvmi (Seifi^'Jnferieure) ... 31 

Elue 294 

Eloyes 249 

Eiv.en 200 

Eiuji>firm6iil 241 

Embrnn (Hautes-Alpe»)...\AQ, 145 

EmcraiaYlllo Poutault 251 

Encaussfx 290 

Eii;;biQii-lcs-BalU9 24 

Entrai^fuca .....^ Ill 

EntrcsiSeJi ..« 116 

. EpunCA 192 

V lipwxUUew 176 

- (iiamt) i86, 242 



PAOK 

Epemon 56 

Epinac « 91 

Epiaal (Votget) 248, 250 

Epiuay 24, 288 

Epioay-sar-Orge 164 

^poiases ^ P4 

Epone 36 

Ennenonville 22, 234 

Ermltage 19 

Ermont ^4, 25 

Em^e 73 

Erquolines 22 

Erry 85 

Esbly 23t 

Escalquens 282 

EschauSour 46 

Esclimont 56 

Escoa 269 

Escoublac-la-BdIe 191 

Kscrennes 163 

Esiieval • 41 

Espalion (Aveyron) 230 

Esqaelbecq 17 

Essd, or Rouyray 198 

Essigny-lo-Petit 21 

Essomess 235 

Essoune 163 

Esta?el 294 

Estcnos 290 

Esternay 234 

EstUsac 83, 25 i 

Estr^houx 149, 288 

Estr^es St. Denis 18 

Estressin 105 

Etain 238 

Etampes (Loiret) 165 

Etang 92 

Etang de Moison 261 

Etaples 5, 15 

Etaules 194 

Etigiiy 83 

Etival 241 

Etoile 108 

Etrechy 165 

Etrepagiiy 34 

EtreUt 40 

Eti ....^ 6 

Ealxaout 241 

EurvUle 226 

Evaux-leS'Dains 227 

Evian-leS'Bains 135 

Evreux (Eure) 45, 59, 69 

Evron 62 

Evry - 163 

Eygurande-Merlioes ....208, 226, 
227 

Eymoutlers 208 

Eyrcin 2i6 

Eza 144 



Fabr^guei , ,.. 160, 

FabrQxon .t** f fMf.ii.tfMt tti 286 



MOB 

Factare 188, 259 

Falaise (Caivadoi) 71 

Fanjeaux 284 

Farbus-Vimy 12 

Farel 140 

Faremoutiers 251 

Farguettes, Les 231 

Frtug^res 160, S88 

Fangaerolles 274 

Fanris, Les 106 

Favemey 250 

Favi^res 239 

Fayence 141 

Fuymont 250 

Faymoreaa 199 

Fecamp 40 

Felletin 207 

Fcrdrnpt 249 

F^re Champenolse 235, 58 

F^re-en-Tardenois 284, 235 

Ferette, La 258 

Femey, or Femey Voltaire.. 182 

Ferribres 284 

Ferriferes-Fontenay 81 

Ferri^re-St. Mary 229 

Feiirs 137, 232 

Fevsin 104 

Flgeacrito/; 209 

Figneras 294 

Fins-lez-Moutbard 87 

Fiquelmont 247 

Firmlny 106,147 

Fismes 23, 234, 285, 244 

Flxin 90 

Flamboin-Gouaix 252 

Flavigny 87 

Flers 69 

Fleurance 276 

FIcurville 94 

Fleury-sur-Andelle 34 

Flogny 85 

Florae 155, 159 

Floure 2'i6 

Foccy » 214 

Foix (Arrikgt) 293 

Folembrai 20 

Folligny 52, 70 

Fons 157 

Fontaine 90, 250 

Fontaine Fran^aise 256 

Fontaine-Vincuse 103 

Fontaines 92, 96 

FontalnebI«aur'8e<M-«M/rnJ 79 

Fontenay-attX-Roses 161 

Fontenay-le-Conite (Temiac;. 192 

Fontenay-Ferri^res 81 

Fontenay-sous-Bois 251 

Fontenoile Abbey 41 

Fontenoy 85 

Pontenoy-snr-MoscUe 239 

Fontcyrault •. 184 

. Fontipedronzo «.....«.• 296 

Fontoy 2^7 



INDKX. 



xvir. 



PAOR 

ForeaJqnier (Beuses-AIpeB) ... 147 

Forest de MUly 18fi 

Foi^es-les-Eaux 83 

ForgeyieiUe 206 

Fomiigny 49 

Fort Barranx 189 

Fort de Joux 131 

Fort-les-Balns 296 

Fos 106 

Foucart-Alvimaie 40 

Foug 289 

Fongferos (IHe-ei-VUaine) ... 73 

Fougerolles 260 

Foulain 265 

Foulcrey 242 

Fouqucsreuil 12 

Four, Le Rock 191 

Fonrmicfl 18 

Fourmiqui^rs 285 

Fournaux 207 

Fourtic 276 

Fourvoiric 188 

Fouras 193 

Fraize 260 

Fraiiche-Comt^ 181 

FrancoiiTille 2.5 

Franois 180 

Frasne 131 

FreWcourt 238 

Fr^jns 128, 141 

Fresnay, and Presnay-le- 

Vicomte 70 

Fresn^-la-Mfere 71 

Fresnoy-ie-Grand 21 

Fraeval 164 

Frcthun 8 

Fr^vcnt 12 

Fromental 106 

Fronsac 178 

Frontenay-Kohan 192 

Fronti^ian 167 

Frouard 2i0, 2^6 

Frugcs 6, 16 

Fucntarabia 263 

Fuinay 245 

Fumel 213 

Fumes 16 

Gnbas 270 

Oabian 160, 188 

0&3herie 190 

Oacy 69 

Oagni^res 160 

Gairnv 288 

GtM\M(Tam) 211 

Gaillon 81 

Gallardun 66, 164 

GallariTues 164 

Gallician 116 

Gamaiohes -.. ....- 6 

Gangpei ..> M«t..r..f.,frflMi 1(>P 



PAOI 

Gannat (AUier) 220, 225 

Gap 108, 140, 147 

Garaye, Gh&teau La 74 

Gardanne 128, 146 

Gardoniio 179 

Gargan 2'>8 

Gargas Grottoes 290 

QarKllesse 206 

Garonne, Sources of 290 

Gasny 36 

Gau 269 

Gaubo Lake 271 

Gavflmie 278 

Gave d'Oloron 269 

Gave de Pau 267 

Gaz, Lo 187 

Gaxinet 269 

Gedre 2 2 

Geinalncotte 260 

Gdinozac 194 

Geneva ..102, 135 

Genevreuille 267 

Gcnlis 129 

Gcnncs 190 

Genolhac 169 

Gentilly 162 

Gdrardmer 24^, 250 

Gcrgovia 222 

Germalns, St 43 

Gerona 294 

Gerzat 220 

Gevrcy-Chambertin 1)) 

Gex (Airt) 182 

Ghyvelde 16 

Glbervillo 48 

Gien 224, 81 

Gibres-Uriaye 139 

Gif 162 

Gi)?nac 160 

Gilly 225 

Ghnel Waterfall 226 

Gimfinos, Valley of the 120 

Glniont 277 

Ginguette-de-Boycr, La 140 

Ginouillac 228 

Giromagny 257 

Glronde 274 

Gisors 35 

Givet 246 

Givors 105, 18> 

Givors-Ciinal 102 

Glay Institution 131 

Glos 47 

Qlos-Montfort 46 

GolfeJouiin 143 

Gondrecuurt 234 

Goncssc 10, 24 

GoufTrc de la Goule 150 

Gourdon (Lot) 208, 213 

Gou'niiiy-eu-Bray 28 

Gonmay-sur-Aronde 18 

GoufsainviUe .>« 10 

Gojizop ..,.., ,.,..,,...,„.„ 207 



1*AGB 

Gragnague 211 

GrainTille-Goaerville 40 

Gramat 200 

Grand' Combe. La 158 

Grande Cascade.... 227 

Grande Chartreuse, La..'.100, 138 
Grand Croix, or LesUouurdos 186 

Grand Mont Ferrand 139 

Grand Veymont ISO 

Grandjean 194 

Grand Lemps 187 

Grand P.>nt 174 

Grandpuits 25 

Grandrieux : 159 

Grandvilliers 26 

Granges 250 

Granville 70 

Grasse (Var) 142 

Grasse Abbey 286 

Gravc-en-Oisans 145 

Gravelincs 11, 15 

Graveson 114 

Gravelotto 288 

Gray (Haute-Sa^teJUH, 180, 256 

Grdroonville 41 

Grcnade-sur-rAdour 264 

Grenoble (/««ra; 106,108, 188 

Grdsivaudnn 185 

Gretz 288 

Grctz-Annainvilllcrs 251 

Qrczan 161 

Grigrny 185 

Grillons Los 141 

Gripp Fall 290 

Grisollcs 279 

Grive, La 137 

Gruchet'la-Valasse 40 

Guagno Baths 127 

Gu^rande 191 

Gu^rard 251 

Gu^ret 206 

Gudtary 368 

Guibray 71 

Gnichen 65 

Guierche-sur-Sartlie, La 70 

Guignicourt 24 

Gnjan-Meiitras 2(J0 

Guiliancourt 8 

Guillestra 146 

Guillon 87 

Guines 11 

Gningamp (CCUt-du^NoiHi)... 66 

Guise 21 

Guitera Baths 127 

Gv^-Bur-Seine 246 

Gy 256 

Hagetmau 264 

Ham 8, 20 

Hambj'e * .^% 

Hangcst t.»f.."M 



XvilL 



INDBX. 



PAQS 

BftiiTee ....*... S04 

Harflanc 99 

Haut Brion S59 

HautezivQ 81, 218 

Hautmont 93 

Havro-de-Grace, Is (Seine- 

fn/AHeureJ «8 

liayange 247 

Hazebrouck CAw-cfJ 11, 17 

H^as Chapel 272 

Heches 291 

Heilles 2i 

Helfaut Camp 8 

Hendaye 263 

H€n6 71 

Heniu 14 

Hennebont 201 

Herbicres, Les 198 

Herbignac 199 

Herblay 37 

H^rlcourt 181, 267 

Herind 252 

Hermes 25 

Hesdlgrneul 6 

Hesdin 6, 15 

Heyrleux 187 

Hiersac 177 

Hlr^on 18, 24 

Hls-Mane-Tonme 289 

Hogiie, La 50 

HonAQw: (Qtlvadot) 51 

Hortcs 256 

Hoapitalet 283 

Hottot 47 

Hoablonoi^re 47 

Houdaiu 12 

Houdaii 69 

HoaeiUes 264 

HouUle 87 

Houlgate 51 

Huel ro6t 203 

Huriei 207 

Hmtc, La 7i 

Hvds. 224 

Hyhres li!2 

Hs-Etretat, Les 40 

Igney-Avricourt 242 

He Barbe 101 

lie Dieu 191 

He de Groix 202 

He d'Ol^ron 194 

He de R^ 196 

Hes Sanguinaires 124 

He de Seiae 202 

He de SeXn 203 

Hes dea L^rlus 142 

Hiers 68 

HlaU Castle 273 

Hie 296 

lUfajrt. 258 

Indjet . .....^ m 



FAoa 

|«flrMadei 178, 188 

Irasiarl 368 

Ircaux 106 

Irigny 185 

Irun 26i) 

Isigny 49 

{sle-Adam 25 

Isle-Bouchard 172 

Isle des Oiscaux 260 

Isles- sur-Suippes 244 

Isola Rossa 127 

Iss^ 190 

Issoire (Puy-de-D&meJ 223 

Issoudun (Indre) 205 

Is-sur-Tllle 256 

Itaucourt vl 

Ivry 16J 

Ivry-le-Bataille 36 

Iwuy 21 

Isseure 217 

Jalons-les-Vig^ies 236 

Janztf 198 

Jargeaa 224 

Jarmonil 250 

Jamac-Segonzac 178 

JarviUe-le-Malgrange 241 

Jaujac 151, 224 

Jessains 246, 255 

Jeumont 22 

Joigny (Yonne) 83 

Joinville 246 

Joiuville le Pont 251 

Jonch^res 159 

Jonqnes 181 

Joiizac (Oharente Inferuure) 

186, 190, 195 

Jopp^oourt 247 

Josseliiie Castle 200 

Jouar>e 235 

Jou^ les-Ti'urs 172 

Jouey Aqueduct 247 

Jouques 147 

Jouy 57 

Jouy-en-Josas 55 

.Joux, Fort de 131 

Joux, La • 131 

Joycuse 151 

Jnbelin. or Jubladns 62 

Julgnd-sur-Loire 187 

Jujuricux 133 

Juillan 271 

Jullly 22 

Jnmifeges, Abbey Church of 41 

Junqnera 295 

Jussey 249, 256 

Juvigny-soas-Andame 72 

Jnvisy 168 

Juza, Falls of 291 

Jnziers 87 



i(nba«o< 



M 68 



PAttl 

^... 877 

La Baconnftri H 

lAbarre 180 

Labarthe-Inard 290 

La Barthe-de-Neste 107 

Labasscrre 266 

La Bastide 150 

Labatut 267 

La Baume des Arnauds 108 

La B^gude 150, 224 

La Bcnne 261 

LaBernerie .' 190 

La Bessie 145 

La Bluncardc 117 

Labouhcyre 260 

La Bourboule 227, 228 

La Bohalle 186 

La Bourse 161 

La BoutarM -/84 

La Brillanne 147 

La Brohini^re 66, 200 

La Brossc 163 

Labruguibre 284 

Lac-de-Gaube .' 271 

La Chaise Uleu 223, 238 

La Camargue 115 

La Chambre 185 

Lachamp Condillac 109 

Lachamp-Raphael 224 

La Chapelaude 826 

La ChapcUe Anthenaise 62 

La Chapelle au Bois 249 

La Chapelle St. Mesmln 167 

La Chapelle-sur-Lolre .184 

La Chapelle- Yvrou 47 

La Charitd 81 

La Chartre 61 

La Chartre-sur-Loire 58 

La Chatclet 244 

LaChatre : 226 

La Ciotnt 121 

La Cluse 132, 133 

La f'oto St. Andr^ '. 106 

La Couronue 178 

La Creche 192 

La Crcmatie '284 

Lacourtcnsourt 279 

Lacq. 267 

La Ffere 24 

La Fert^ Alais 163 

La Fert^ Bernard .•»9 

La Fert€ Beauharnals 204 

La ^erttf Fresnel 46 

La ^ert^ Gaucher ...234, 238 

LaFert^Mac^ 69, 72 

La Fert^ Milon ..23, 234, 285 

La Fei't^-sous-Jouarre 284 

La Kert^ sar Amance 25$ 

La Fert^ &t. Aubin iOi 

La Fert^-Vidame 59 

Lafl^y *.. ^09 

La Fl^che (Smihe) •••• W 



IMIUBZ. 



xix. 



PAOB 

Laforce (Les Asiles de) ...... 179 

l.afox 2T7 

Lafoux .....................MM** 104 

La Fraysse 1^9 

La Fresnais 76 

La Qaraye Chateau ...'.'..'...,. 74 
La C^arcnne-Bezons ........... 42 

Lagny-Thorigr.y 233 

La Guucsniere 75 

La Grand' Combe 159 

La Grange 79 

La Grave d'Ambaibs 180 

La Grbve 194 

LaGubpie 210 

Lii Gucrchc 46 

LaGuilUtlfere 103 

La Gaiole 280 

La Ilayc-Descartss 178 

La Hague, Cupo 51 

La Hume 3^0 

La Huttc Coulombiers 60, 61, 70 

Laiglc 45, 69 

Laigne et St. G«rvais 197 

Laifly 168 

Laissey 131 

La Jarrie ^ 195 

LaJonch^re 207 

La Jonchfere Ch&tcau 48 

La Levade 159 

Laiinde 212 

La Loupe 58 

Laiuque 260 

Lamagistbre 277 

Lamalou 284 

Lamarche 129, 256 

La Mare k laBrcsse...! 196 

Lamballe 66 

La Menitrd 186 

La Meyze 209 

Laniothe 259 

Li Moihe-Achard 191 

La Mothc-Beuvron 204 

La Mothc-Landcrron 274 

La Mothc-St. Heyre 192 

La MouUly i47 

Landerucau »...67, 204 

■Landcs District 259 

Landevnnt 201 

Landiras 278 

Landiviziau 67 

Landrecies 22 

La Nerthe Tunnel 116 

Langeac 159 

Langeais 184 

Langogne 148^ 159 

.Langoiran 278 

Langon....'...^ 274 

Lang^es (Haute-Mame) 256 

Langrune ...' .....i 48 

Lannemezan 291 

lAQniou (Cdtet-difrJSfqn^. 67 

XiflQUvjOlS .••(M.... ASM.. .......•• 148 



PAOl 

LaPaiUasse 107 

La Palisse ,„„,«,„.,..« 81 

La Palud: , 110 

La Pauline 122 

La Penne... 121 

Lapeyrouse 224 

La Pointe 188 

La Pomme 121 

La Possonni^re 188, 198 

La Pontroye 250 

Lapugnoy 15 

Laqueuille 208,226, 227 

Laragne 140 

La Raillifere 271 

L'Arbresle 81, 102, 282 

Larcho..... 227 

Lardy 166 

La Kenardi^re 137 

La Reolc 274 

hekXg&aiihtQ (Ardkhi) 150 

Laroche 88^ 145 

La Roche Bernard 199 

Larocho Clialais 178 

Laroche, or Roche-Poaay ... 173 

La Roche de Glun. 106 

La Roche Guyon 86 

La Rochefoucauld 206 

LaRochelle 190, 195 

La Rochepot 92 

La Roche-8ur-Foron 134 

La Roche-sur-Yon 190, 199 

La Rue , 9 

Larrau 267 

Lartoire 56 

Laruns 270 

La Salette 189 

Las Casas 284 

Las.Hcrre 275 

La Tente Yerte 16 

La Terrasse 228 

La Teste de Buch 260 

Latour 149, 288 

La Tour du Pin 187 

La Torre 144 

La Tremblade 194 

La Tricberie 174 

LaTrimouille 175 

La Turbie 144 

Laudun 102 

Launois 244 

Lauragala 288 

Lausanne 181 

Lautreo 284 

Lauzuu 212 

LAyaXfMayenw), 62, 78 

Lavalanet 285 

K^a Varenne Cbieaaeyi^res ... 251 

Lavatay 182 

Lavaud Franch« 207^ 226 

Lavaur 278 

LavayaU-les-Miaea 807 

LaVaTrette IM 

LaTelina %^ a§a 



FAOB 

LaVerpiUi^re 187 

Laverriere ........................ HA 

Lavillediea 277 

La Vilie-Go^et, 22$ 

La Voulte 108, 108, 150 

La Voute aur Loire, 147 

Layrac 276 

Le B^age 228 

Le Blanc 178, 176,184, 20G 

Le Breuil 51, 223 

Le Bugue 212 

Le Buisson 179, 212 

Le Burg 209 

Le Canet ...i.. 128 

Le Cendre 228 

L'Ecluse 2dd 

Le Creuzot 92 

Le Crotoy $ 

Le Porai 176, 206, 206 

Lupine .,. 287 

L^EstaquQ 116 

LEsterel, or VEstrelle 141 

LEtoile-de-Conflans 87 

Lectoure C<rer4i^ 276 

Le Faou 208 

Leforest 14 

Le Genest 68 

LeGu^tin 216 

L'Herbergemont 190 

L'Hermitage 65 

L^hon, or L^on 74 

I/Hdpitdl des Gros Uoii 180 

Le Lion d' Angers 197 

Le Luc 128 

LeLude 196 

Le Mans r^r<Ae; 60, 70, 196 

Le Martinet 158 

Le Moiay LItlry 49 

Le Monastier 149 

Le Monastier (Haute Loire)^ 228 

Lempant 284 

Lempdes 229 

Le Muy 123, 141 

Le Neubourg 45 

Lens 12 

Lepangea 250 

Le Pdage 57 

Le P^age do Roussiilon 105 

Le Pompidou........... 155 

Le Pontet 112 

Le Pouliguen 191 

Le Pouruel 209 

Le Pouzin 108, 108, 15tt 

LePuy .« 147 

Le Qudroy-Pranzae 211 

Le Quesnoy 18, 22 

Le Rozler 160 

LerouTille 289 

Les Arcs 128, 141 

LesAubrais 106, 167 

LesBarzaslaNaintre lU 

LMBaox lU 

Iii^ Bof4a(i««««««««tMf««MM««M«» 8M 



XX. 

r 

PAGE 

LesBreTeDts ..•.*..! 131 

Lesear 267 

Les Cloaseaux 190 

Lea Eglisottes 178 

Les Eyzies 212 

L«s Laames 87, 91 

Les Ma ECS l''^6 

Les Maares 141 

LosMartres de Veyre 222 

Les Ormee 178, 252 

J es Onglous 288 

Les Pargots 131 

Lesparre (Oirmide) 183 

Les Petites Dalles 41 

Les PontsdeCe 187 

Lespouey-Laslades 291 

Les Roches 196 

I>es Roches de Condrleux ... 105 

Les Rochers 63 

Les Rousses 132 

Los Salins d'Hy^res 12) 

LesSaules 11 

Lossay 49 

Les Tamaris 158 

Le Teich 269 

Le Tell 69, 108, 109, UO 

LcThillot 249 

LcThor 113 

Leucate 293 

Leudon 251 

Lea Tavemcy II 

Levade, La 158 

LcVerdon 184 

Le Vigan 165, 159 

LeVernct 294 

I^xos 210 

Leyinent 133 

Ldzan 155, 157 

Ldzignan 28S 

Lezlunes 86 

Lozoux 232 

L'Habitarelle 148 

Liancourt 9 

Liboa 218 

Llbourne (Gironde) 179 

Llcq 267 

Lieuran Rlbaut 288 

Lieusahit 78 

LigncroUes 227 

Ligiiidres 205 

Ligrny-en-Barruls 238 

Lignv-de-Flochel 15 

Ligr^ lUvifere 178 

Ligugd 176 

\ji\\e(Nord) 12 

Lillcbonne 40 

LlUcrs : 12 

Limagiic 220 

Limay 36 

Limeray 169 

Limoges (Haute- Vieanej 176, 207 

Iii0i9iirj| M............ 162 

Limonx (4ud€) ,..,„ 285 



IMDBX. 

PlOB 

Lion 294 

Lion d* Angers, Le 197 

Lioran, Le 280 

Lioran Tannel 280 

Lir^ 188 

Ijiilevix CCcUvada$) 46, 51 

L'lsle 276, 277 

Lisle Bouchard 173 

L'lsle d'Albl 211 

I/Isle-sur-le-Donbs 131 

L'lsle de No^ 277 

L'lsle-sar-Sorgue 1 12, 1 18 

Lison 49, 52 

Livardin 61 

Livarot 47 

Liverdun 289 

LIvet 145 

Livron 108, 150 

Livry 288 

Loche«« (Indre-et-Loire) 172 

Lode (Switzerland) 151 

liocmariaker 201 

Lodfeve (HetxiulO 160, 288 

l.ods 151 

Logaelfret 903 

liolre 102 

Loisy 28S 

Lolvre 24 

Lombfirdi^re 187 

Lombez (Oers) 289 

Longages 289 

Longchamps 22 

T»ngeviUe 288 

Longjumeau 164 

Longpont 28, 169 

I^ongpr^ 5, 7, 8 

Longroy 6 

Longueviile 28, 251 

Ix)nguyon 247 

Longwy 247 

l.oiirny 72 

l>on8-le-Saunierry«ra; 93,102, 132 

Loon 15 

Lorgues 147 

Lorient (Morbihan) 202 

Loriol 108 

Lormont IKO 

Lorris 224 

Lothier 2 16 

Louddac (C6te»-du-Nord) 6>{, 201 

Loudun (Vienne) 172, 176 

Louhans (S(t6ne^-Loire) ... 98 

Louisfort 198 

Loarchcs...... 21 

Lourdes 271 

Loures 29<) 

Lourox-de-Boublo 225 

Louvcme 62 

LouTlors (Eure) 84 

Louvres ^ 10 

Ixixeville 238 

Loz^re ,... 162 

Luaut 206 



PAOI 

Labersac 209 

Luc-cn-Dioia 108 

Lnchon 290 

Lucina 126 

LuQOn 190, 196 

Ludon 183 

Ludres 241 

Lugagnan 271 

Lngos 260 

Lunas 160, 288 

Luuel 116, 154 

Lunel-Vicl 155 

Lun^ville (Meurthe) 241 

Lure (Hatae-Sadne) 257 

Lusignan 191 

Lusigny 254 

Lus-la-Croix-Haute 139 

Lussac-Ies-Ch&teanx 176 

Lux^ 176 

Lnxcuil 257 

Luvnes 146 

Lu*z 93, 272 

Lazech 218 

Lyons (RhAne) 96 

Lyons-la-For^t ,. 34 



Maatz 256 

Macau 183 

Machecoul 191 

M&con (SaOne-et'Loirej 94, 138 

Madalenn, La 128 

Madiran 264 

Magalas 283 

Magny 8«, 129 

Mnguelonne Church 157 

Maintenon 56, 164 

Maison-Ronge, or Leudon ... 251 

Maisons 254 

Maisons Alfort 77 

Maison Dieu. I4i 81 

Maisons, or Maisons-Lafitte 87 

Maladctta 291 

Mftlain 88 

Malansac 2')0 

Malaunay 29, 41 

Malauze 227 

Malay-le-Roi 254 

Malesherbes 80, 168, 165 

Malicome 197 

Malmaison 48 

Mamers ^Or»Mt> 60, 70 

Mancheconrt 168 

Mandeure 131 

Mandnel 151 

Manoir 38 

Manosque 147 

Manienav 188 

Mantes fSHns-et-Oite) .^6 

Majitoohea ...129, 256 

Maraiia.,,,, , „,.,.,« 190. 196 



IKDBX, 



XXX, 



PAOB 

MaranviUe 255 

Marbache 246 

Marbor^ Peak 278 

Harccnais 195 

Slarcheprine 259 

Marches, Les 133 

Marcillac 210 

Maccoing 15, £0 

Marcorignan 286 

MarcnncB (Charente- JnferU 

eure) 194 

Macesquel 15 

Marcail-Bur-Ay 242 

Margivul 23 

Margaux 183 

Marguerittes li'4 

Margut 247 

Marigiiac-St -Beat 290 

Maritrnane 116 

Markirch 250 

Marie .„ 24 

Marlea, La Uoussaye 251 

MarUeux-Ch&tillon lOi 

Marl>-le-Rol 42 

Marly Waterworks 43 

Marmagiie 214 

Marmande 179, 26i, 274 

Mame 255 

Maromme 29 

Marqulse-Rinxent 3 

Marqnixanes 296 

MarroUea-en-Horepolx 165 

Mars 81, 217 

Marsac 206, 231 

Marseillan 289 

Marseilles (Bouehesdu Rh6ne) 117 

Marseilles Prado 117 

Marseilles St. Charles 117 

Marslllargaes 116 

Mars-lo-Toar 246 

Martel 209 

Martigny-les-Balns 2'^9 

Martigues 116 

Martinvast 49 

Martres de Riviere 290 

Martres Tolosane 289 

Marvcjols {Loxere) 149, 2-^9 

 Harzeray «. 194 

Masd'Azii 29? 

Mas-de-nardies 155, 158 

Mas-de-Ponge 158 

Mas Saintcs Puelles 283 

Massay 205 

MasR^rac 198 

Massiac 229 

Massy 162 

Maubcugo . 18, 22 

Maubourguet 264 

Maubranche 215 

Maoldon 2(t7 

Maalevrier «... 199 

■Ifpvp**^"** -4-- 50 

M»urinc (Ctintai) 2-^ 



PAGE 

MauY6B .,.. 103, 188 

Mauz€ 192 

Mayenne (i/aymiM) 62 

Mayet 197 

Mazamet 284 

Maz^res .« 292 

Maz^res-8ur-le-Salat 289 

lienux {Seine-€t-Loire) 234 

M^doc 183 

Megruies 159 

Mehun-sur-Y^vre.. 214 

Melas 109 

Meilhan Tower 276 

Meillorayo, Le 41, 198 

McUe (Deux^Sivret) 176. 192 

Meluu {Seine-et-Mame) 78 

Melz 252 

MenarB,or Mtfnars-le-Cb&teau 1 68 
Mcnde {Loxere) 148, 155, 159, 160 

Menesqueville 34 

Meniii 13 

Mcnnecy 163 

Mciitou, or Meutone 144 

Mer 168 

Mcrcas 293 

Mdreiis 293 

M^r^vllle 165 

Mcrrey 239 

Meru , 8, 25 

Mesgrigiiy 258 

Mesmil-sur-rEstr^es 4, 69 

Mcsnay Arbois 131 

Mesnll 41 

Mcsnil-Guillanme, Lc 47 

Mcsiill-Mauger 47 

Mcssac 65 

Messcl 69 

Messcmprd 247 

Mestras 260 

Mettray 197 

Metz (MoteUe) 238, 247 

Mcudun 53 

Mcalan 3 > 

Meang 168 

Meursanlt 91 

Meximieux 133 

Mcymac 226 

Meyrargues 147 

Meyrin 135 

Meyraeis 159, 160 

Meys 137 

Mcysse 108 

Mfezc 288 

Mezel 141 

Mdz^rlat 133 

Mezidon 47, 72 

M^zlbres MrdeiuMc; 234, 244 

M€zi^res<8ur-0iae 22 

M^zilhac 223 

M^zy, or M^zy-Moullns 285 

Mlalet 158 

Ml(ipn , 106 

Mlelau , 277 



• PAQB 

Mignaloux # 176 

Mllbae 227 

Mllhaii,orMilIaurilMyr«m;i49, 160 

Mllhaud 154 

Millas 296 

Mitnbaste 266 

Miinizan 260 

Mlnerve 288 

Mionnay lOt 

MI08, or Chetnin di Mios ... 259 

Mirabeau 147 

Miraraas 114, 116 

Miraiubeau 195 

Mirande r(;(r«; 277 

Mlrebeau 175, 185 

Mlreoourt 239,241,248 

Miremont 212, 227 

Mlrepoix 292 

Mireval 156 

Mlribel 138 

Mlssoii-Uabas 266 

Mitry 22 

Modane 136 

Moignt 137 

Moirans 106, 107, 137 

Moirax 276 

tAoiMtiC (Tam-ti-Gaircnne) ,,. 277 

Mollbr«8 167 

Molltg, or Moligt 296 

Molompise 229 

Munaco 144 

Monerl. 241 

Moncey ; 2.'»0 

Moncontonr 66, 175 

Moncoutant 194 

Mondevllle 47 

Mondragon 110 

Monetier 145 

Mf^nestier-de- Clermont 189 

Mon^tean 83 

Monistrol 147 

Monnervillo 165 

Moiifecrct 70 

Montague a'Alaric 2^6 

Montagne de Fordurles 108 

Montagne de Glandaz 108 

Montagne Noire 283 

Montagne de Solore 107 

Montagne Verte, La 218 

Montaig^ if2 

Montaiga-Venddo 190 

Montalgut 206 

MontAbaudv 267 

Mont Aiguille 139 

Mont Argarry 267 

Mont Auxois 87 

Montady Castle 287 

MontaUeu 133 

Montargis (Loiret) 81 

Montastruc 211 

Montaubaiv-de>Bretagne 65 

.Montanban(7Vin»-#<-<7aroMn«>9'^ 
210, 314, •-•78, 284 



xxU. 



IMDBX, 



PA6I 

goBtanban, Falls of 391 
outa^roux «Y•M•^«M««•«•*«%«•* 141 
ontaut-B^tliarram .„...,«• 810 

Montbard ..»...,... 86 

Montbarry ..,,„„..,, .....,t 189 

Itfontbartier „„f,..„^^^/,. 878 

Montbazln 160, 188 

Hontbaaon 172 

Uonihiili&ra (Dot^J 181 

Mont Bethaudy 267 

Mohtbiaot 70 

Montbozon 250 

kontbrison 136, 232 

Jdont Canigott 896 

Montcaret 179 

Montceaa Castle ., , 284 

Mont Ceindre 96 

Mont Cenis..... 135 

Montchanin ^ 92 

Mont Cinto 125 

Mont Colombier 184 

Mont d'Aspe 870 

Mont Dauphin 145 

Mont deMarsanfXandMt; 268, 874 
Uontdidier CiSomnie; .........8, 20 

Mont Doi , 74 

Mont Dore-les-Bains 223, 227, 228 

Mont d'Or „ 96 

Wont d'Oro 124, 125 

Monte Albano 126 

Monte Arazzo 127 

Monteboiirg 49 

Monte Buturctto ,, 128 

Monte Calva 128 

Monte-Capclla 128 

Monte Carlo 144 

Monte Christo 127 

Montcignet 220 

Monteils 210 

Monte Incudine 128 

Montelimar {Dronui) 109 

Montendre 195 

Montcrcau 252 

Montereau-saut-Yoone ...82, 252 

MonteroUier-Buchy 83 

Montesoourt 80 

Montesquieu's Chateau ...... 278 

Montestruc .,., 276 

Monteux , Ill 

Monte Viso » 144 

Montfaucon Ill 

Montferrand 221 

Montferrier 159 

Montflanquin 21 3 

Montfort-la-Maury 69 

Montfort-sur-Meu (lUe-et' 

VUaine) „ 65 

Montfoi-t St. Philibei-t 40 

Montgaillard ..., 265 

Mont Qen^vre 144 

Montgerou ...„ 78 

Montgiscard 288 

^»ut Q^rmd».«.M.MM»mfM«. 888 



PAGE 

Mostgaillon, Bnlns of......... 853 

MontHalonxa ...» f8 

Mouthureoxrlei-Banlay „•,.. 856 

Montleramey * 854 

Montignac 218, 885 

Montigny 17 

Moq^ Inaccessible 108 

Montlr^n^e 96 

Mont J^zieu 149 

Moutjoie 289 

Mont Lache 267 

Montlaur 283 

Mont Laures 287 

Mont Louis 170, 885, 296 

Mont Loz^re 14S 

Montlh^ry 164 

MoutlU9OU...207, 220, 384, 226, 887 

Montlnel 183 

Montmartre 12 

Montmanr *.* 285 

Montm^dy riiTeiMe; 247 

Montm^ian 185 

Montmerle 95 

Mont Mezene 148 

Mont Mlmat 148 

Montmirail 285 

Montmorean 178 

Montmorency 84 

MontmorilionrFi'^nne^ 176 

Montoir 191 

Moutoire-sur-le-Loir 196 

Mont Pagliorba 125, 127 

Montpaon 149 

Montpazler 213 

Montpeliier (Heravlt) 156, 888 

Montpellier le Vieux 160 

Mont Peivoux 145 

Montpensier 220 

Mont Perdu 273 

Mont Peyroux 220 

Alontp^zat ....208, 214 

Montpezat-sous-Bauzen 224 

Mont Piias 104 

Mont Poupet 126, 180 

Montpout 812 

Mont Puymal 286 

Montrabe 211 

Montreal 284 

Moutr^jean 390 

MontreuU 5 

MontreuU Beliay ...175, 185, 186 

Montreuil-Curne 46 

MontreuUrSur-JMer (Pa$-^t6- 

Calais) 5, 15 

MontreuU Romien 175 

MontrcuilrSur-IUe 73 

MontreuxrVicux 258 

Montricoux.......... 210 

Moutrlchard 178 

MoutRixon 182 

Mont BognoB .....<..» 222 

Moutrond :...187, 228, 888 

Mont AQtO&do ......MmaiUs 486 



PAGS 

Montronge 161 

Monta IfB 

Mont St. Martin. 847 

Mont at. Michel 88 

Mont Solumongagna 987 

Montsoult II 

Monts Faucilles 188 

Montsurs, or Mons Secnras.. 68 

MontVal^ieu 48 

Mont Ventoux 118 

Mont Victoire 146 

MoHTlUe 38 

Moraucez 58 

Morannes 61 

Morbihan 800 

Morcenx 860 

Moret-sur-Loing 80 

Moreuil 8 

Morez 182 

Mor^e 1&6 

Morlaes 269 

Morlaix (Finittert) 67, 804 

Mormant 881 

Momac. 194 

Momas 110 

Morosaglia 187 

Mortagne-sur-S^vreCFend&> 198 

Mortagne (Onu) 58, 60 

Mortaiu (ManeheJ 70 

Mortcerf 884, 851 

Mortean 131, 183 

Moftefontaine 10 

MorvUlars 181 

Moanac St. Genls 195 

Motteyille 41 

Moucbard 108, 189, 181 

Moulln-des-Ponts 103 

Moullneaux 53 

MouUns (AOier) 81, 818, 885 

Moulina des Champs 108 

Moulins-surrYbTre 316 

Moulia 181 

Moult-Argencea 47 

Mourmelon Camp 237 

Mourroux 253 

Mouscron 18 

Mousquette. 884 

Moussac 176 

Mouthiers 178 

Moux 286 

Mouy 95 

Moy 23 

Moyenmontier 841 

Mulhouse, or Milhlhausen 

(HauteKhin) 849, 958 

Murato ^^, 196 

Murat (Canted) 280 

Murat-Ie-Quaii-e » 227 

Murcaux 36 

Muret (SaMU'Qanmm} 989 

Muiola 998 

Mufisidan...................«M..... 912 

Mnuy «..M.«..MM.M .(^.r 9li 



Vk^A<6 t)»iutit.ti.*.*i***M*^**k<*« 810 

Kan^is-Ie-Petit 28^ 

Jftiwey (Afem'tke) 240 

^nngis 261 

Nfttis ISO 

Kanterre 42 

Kftntes (L&ii'e'Jnf&ieitre) ... 19$ 

Kftnteuil 235 

IVftnteaiMe-Haadoin 22 

Kantua (Ain) 183 

Haponle 143 

H&tbonne (Aude) 28^ 

vaussae 210 

»ay * 270 

IKeau............... 62 

K^grepelisse »v.....w. 910, 214 

K^gres, Left..-. .......; i%. 176 

Ketnoors ...-...-. BO 

ii4rae fLot'et-Gartmne) 275 

i^^ris-Ies-BaiRB 225 

IVbrondes 216 

Kersac 177 

Kers ..» 158 

|l«rthe, La (tunnel) 116 

»wle M.^.w 4.... 20 

lSeuchkte\^{J3wUtertand) 192 

Venfchftteau 389 

K6ufchfttel-en-Braye fUeine- 

Ihf&ieureJ 28 

Kdiifchfttei i...... 5 

Neuill^-Pont-Pierre ......184, 19t 

l^euilly rE^eqne 256 

^euiUy->8ur-Mame- ...4 ».. 25l 

KenUIy, or Port€ Maillot ... 44 
KeuMargaes ..<<..!.» ...t*.280, 281 

^eiivie ....<.. 212 

Keuville ., 70, 96, 163, 185 

|?euvy PailloUx 205 

ttevers (^iivre) ;» 81, 216 

NeTill«w«.....v».....» » 41 

Kexon 209 

Rice 141, 148 

Klcole 275 

Kieglea-Prades <«..... 150 

Fleull TEspoir 176 

tfimw {OardJ 102, 151,158 

Hflolo..^w..v...*.* 12^ 

Nlort.....»vv..*»....176, 186, 192. 199 

Nissan .*... 287 

MtVersao ».;...v.v....v 212, 227 

Ni^an 'w.».ti..ttii)i.;..t.i. ..<....» 274 

Kog^eiit r Artaud 235 

Hogea<>4e-Phayrc > 58 

llo^ent-le-Rotrott (Swe-^t- 

IXHt'J ..\\%%\..f,.^'.\,::.t 59 

Kogeiit-lo-Roi««..< 57, 164 

Nogent>sur>Marae ..v......... 251 

M6gentr8ur-Mame-6ry S5l 

Kogent-sor-Seine (At^) 252 

Mo^ent-«ttF*VeniiBaon i... 81 

Kohani-Yieq ..»».«.»««..,.*..... 12^ 

Moliitot '.....>«««.,«««M«> «..( 40 

Koir^ftable , 232 



tKDBZ. 

Kolrmoiitiers Island...^ 191 

Noirterre .* 199 

Koisiel-sur-Mame 984 

Noisy-le-Bec ..> 3.^8, 251 

Noizay uu^uu l70 

Nolay * • 91 

Nollans IIO 

Nonancourt 69 

Nonftnt-}e-Pin 69 

Nontron (Dcrdogne)..,.^ 211 

Nort 198 

Nouan-lc-Fuzell«r 204 

Nouvelle, La 2P8 

Nouvion-sur-Meuse 248 

NouKon 245 

Noveant .-....».. 247 

Novion-Porcien : 244 

Noyal ....<... 64 

Noyant 225 

Novelles 5, 6 

Noyon ........;;. ..19, 182 

Nozi^res 158 

Nuces 210 

Nuits 90 

Nuits-sous-Ravi^res 86 

Nyons {Dr6me) 110 

Obelisquedes Trente 209 

Objat 80» 

Oiry 4»....;.......... 286, 25l 

Oissel 84 

Olargaes.... S84 

01ctt« r. 298 

Olivoux 22ft 

OUioales 121 

Olteeto.. 127, 128 

Olonne -. 191 

Oloron {BM*e9-Pyi/'en4es) 269 

OnviUe 246 

Onzain 169 

Oo, Lake of 291 

Orange {Vavdtae) 110 

Orbe 181 

Orbec 47 

Orchamps 130 

Orchies 13 

Orciral 228 

Orgon 114 

Orgues d'Bspailly 148 

Origny-le«Roiix 60 

Orleans (Loiret) 166 

Orleans and Chalons Rail ... 167 

Orlu 293 

Onnoy 22 

Oimans 131 

Oroquieta 263 

Orry-lft-ViUe 10 

Orsay 162 

Orthez (B<ute»-Ptfi'en4e»)...... 267 

Ossuu 265 

Ottdon .....>i.....v.....%.. .......... 188 

Ougney '\«>(.i....vsvA-.^t....«.«.(.* 38w 

Oule de H^as.. 272 



XXiii. 

I . . '-*«« 

Oiillins ..»..iui.».u......l09, 183 

Oursoamps ..i.... 19 

Outer Oifele Rail..... 989 

Ouzouei* Dainpiefre 224 

Oyonuax 182 

OyHferes .i 256 

Oeouer-la-Ferrifere 2»1 

Oaouor-lo-Voulgis 251 



Pacy-snr-Eure 85, 44 

Pagne-sur-Meuse 28^ 

Pagny-flur-Moselle 24d 

Paimboeuf 190, 191 

Paligny 9| 

Paillette 270 

Paimpol t 64 

Palaiseau 169 

Palau del Vidre 2^4 

Pallaau-8ti-6enott 172 

Paniiers 292 

Pamproux 192 

Pantieosa Spa OS^if*; 270 

Pantin '. 288 

Paperie, La 186 

Paraclete i...., 262 

Param^ 76 

Paray-le-Monial ..92, 95 

Pare de St. Maur 251 

Pargny 98^ 

Paris {Seine}..... See Introductioi^ 

Parsao 207 

Parthenay. 176, 188, 199 

Pas de Laneiers. lis 

Passy 44 

Patay ; inA 

TtiU {BoMes-F^rmeet} 26t 

Pauillac ........................... 188 

Paulhaguet 15^ 

Paulhan ............»..; 160, 288 

PaviHy.. ;.. 41 

Pavin Lake 227 

Peccais 154 

Peipin Ui 

Penchot 210 

Penhouet 191 

Pennanties,... 28 1 

Penn-de-rHcris- 266 

Penmark, or Penmarch 208 

Pcnne ........s^ 210, 214 

Percy 62 

Pereuchies , I'i 

V4r\gvkevix (i^ordogne) 2ll 

Pcrnes....... 15 

P^ronne v.. 80 

P4tonne(Sommej .,..t 9, 15 

Perpignan- {-PffreHees-Orien- 

tales)... v.. 294 

Perrache 96 

Perray-Jonannet ...185, 187, 188 

PersaigneaAbb^y... 60 

Pftrsan'Beaiimottt .4.. ........8, 

Pcrtuis 11' 



^ 



uA 



r 



XXIT. 

• • ... 

FAGK 

Perawelz 17 

Petsac .-. ...., 259 

Petit Croi.x 258 

Petit Quevilly 62 

Pexlora 2W 

Pcyrac 218 

Peyraud lO.J, 106 

Pcyrchite 266 

Peyrehorade 266 

Peyrolles 147 

P^zenas 288 

P^zens 284 

Phalcmpin 14 

Phare dc Cordouan 183 

Pibrac 277 

PicardyRail 9 

Pic d'Arbizon 292 

Pic d'Arrcns 271 

Pic d'Ayred ^ 272 

Pic de Bergons 272 

Pic-dc-OabisoB 271 

Pic de Lissc 272 

Pic de Marbord 272 

Pic de Ndthou 291 

Pie de Vi^emale 27« 

PtedeVisoos 271 

PtedftCaineiB..^ 228 

Pic da Midid* Bigonre ...... 266 

PicdaMifttCOsaan 270 

Picquigny ..^  «. 7 

Pierretitte-KestaUs ...^^..^^ 371 

Pierrefitte-Stains ..« 19 

Pierrefonds-les-Bains 23 

Pierrelatte 109 

Pierre Levdo 175 

Plerrepont 247 

Pierres de Naurouie 283 

Plerroton 259 

Pin 69, 175 

Piolenc 1 10 

Piriac 19J 

Plae, La 158 

Pithivlers (LoiretJ 168 

Placette, La 138 

Plaimpied 214 

Plaine, La 135 

Plalsir Grignon 69 

Plancy 7 

Plan de Phazy 145 

Plelber-Christ 67 

PldianleC^rand 65 

Plendc Ju<?on 66 

Plessis-Belleville, Le 22 

Plessis-les-Tours 183 

Plessis-Macd 187 

Plessls-Villette 19 

Ploemiel 200 

Plogoff 203 

Plomb de Cautal 229 

Plombi^res 88 

Plombiferea ., 249, 257 

Ploqarot mm,, 67 

|>loiurxel.MM..<M 6« 



XNDieit. 

PAOS 

Ploadalm^zeau 68 

Plongenast..; ;..*. .. - 66 

Ploun^rin 67 

Podcnsac 2i3 

Poiscux M...... 15 

Polssonui^rc 196 

Poissy 87 

Polticrjj (Vienne) 174 

Poix 8, 33 

Poix Terron 244 

Poli<;nac 148 

Poliffny 102 

Polllat 138 

Polminac 230 

Pommard 91 

Pouimies 95 

Pompadoar 209 

Pons 186, 190, 195 

Pontaillcr 129, 256 

Pontoix 108 

Pont-ii-Bucy 24 

Pont-li*Mousson 246 

Pontanevaux 95 

Pontarlier (Doubs) 181, 256 

Pontaubault 78 

Pont Audemer 46 

Pontcharra-sur-Brdda 189 

Pont Chartrain 56 

Pont Cb&teaa 199 

Pout Hebcrt 52 

Pout d'Ain 188 

l*on(d* Avignon 104 

P)Dnt f Sapikgn^..^^. 271 

Pont-de-Ia-Baiun« ....^ 224 

Pont de rArc.Mi 150 

Pont de TArche ...■>,.. M 

Pontde la Salle IM 

Pont de Beaavoisin 137 

Pont de Braye...58, 165, 169, 196 

Pont de Briques 5 

Pont dc Camares 149 

Pont de ClaU 139 

Pont de Dore 219, 282 

Pont de Qennes 60 

Pont de Lignon 147 

Pont de Rodez 213 

Pont de Vaux 94 

Pont de Veyle 183 

Pont da Ch&teau 284 

Pont duGard 114 

Pont da Roi 290 

Pont du Vey 48 

Pont d'Oye 15 

Pont-en-Royans 106 

Pontenuovo 12^ 

Pont I'Abbd 203 

PontrEv§qae 51 

Pont-Gibaud 208 

Pontgoain 58 

Pont Maugls 247 

Pont Montveit 158 

Pont Hort M... 220 

Pont Rtfmy,M.,o«<MM„M...*,.. 7 



PoBiRoasieau 190 

Pont St. Esprit (<7ard). a lU* 

Pont St. Pierre 34 

Pont St. Vincent 241 

Pont-Ste. Maxence ...9, 18 

Pont-sar-Selne 252 

Pont-sur-Yonne 82 

Ponte-alla-Leccia 126 

Pontigny 85 

Pontliea 60 

Pontlvy (Morbihan) 66, 201 

Pontolse (Seiiu-€t-OiuJ ...9, 25 

Pontorson 71 

Pontrleax 66 

I'ont-sor-Vanne 83, 354 

Pornic 190 

Pomlchet 191 

Port k Bins n 236 

Port Bon 295 

Port-Boulet 184 

Port d'Atelicr-Amance 250, 256 

Port de Bielsa 292 

Port de Boac 116 

PortBrillet 63 

Port de Piles 173, 184 

Porte de Venasqne 291 

Port de Viella 290 

Port-en- Bessin 49 

Port-Bar-Sa6ne 250, 256 

Portet St. Simon 289, 292 

Portets 278 

Port-le>Granci 6 

Port Louis 202 

Port Marly * 43 

Port Mort 35 

Porto Centuro 127 

Porto Torres 128 

FtetDYwchlo 128 

Port ItDjal dea Champs 56 

Port-Stc-lbrte..^......*. 275 

Port VonHrftM.,,...,^.^ ■,,,., 294 

PortVllley ,..-«»,.*....• 35 

Ponancd .«..69v 19S 

Poaillcnay 81 

Poulllon 26» 

Pouilly 216 

Ponllaouen 208 

Pourru-Brdvllly 247 

Poussan 288 

Pouxoux 249 

Pouzauges 199 

Prades 159, 296 

Pradelies 148 

Prahecq 176 

Prats-de-MoUo 296 

Precy 25 

Prd-cn-PaiUe 72 

Preignac 274 

Prdmcaux 90 

Premery 85 

Prdsallles 228 

Pr^saagoy , 85 

PretsiM M,..M U7 



PJIQK 

Pi^sie (La)-t.<ss Bains 295 

I^reuilly ...i *• ..; *.... 178 

Pr6valaye 66 

Prey 69 

Prieure dcs Arbnes ,.... 195 

Priffny Castle 246 

Prigourieux-Laforco 179 

Frivas (Ard^hej 108, 160, 223 

Provins (Seine-et-Mame) "261 

Piiget-Thdniers 144 

Puoy de Monsonet 260 

Putcaux 42 

Puy Baladou 2i7 

Puycerda 2i)3 

Puyd'Angbre 227 

Puy-de-Charade 227 

PuydeCdme 222, 266 

Puy de Dome 222 

Puv do Gravenoire 227 

Puy de rAiguiUe 227 

Puy leMiinet 146 

Puy de Montchal...^ 226 

Puy do Pariou 222 

Puy de Pasrcdi^n 227 

Puy de Poix 232 

Puy de Sarcoui 222 

Puy do Tache 227 

Puy-Imbert 207, 208 

Puy-Laurcns 284 

Puy-L'Eveque 218 

Puy-Ricard 146 

Fuyoo 266 



Querignt 286 

Qucsteuibert 200 

Quettcville 61 

Qucureille 227 

Qnevilly, Grand and Petit... 62 

Qudzaguet 160 

Quibcron 201 

Quie'ray 20 

Quievrain 18 

Quillan 285 

Qnillebcuf 46 

Quimerch 208 

Quiinper, or Quimper Coren- 

tln (Finistere) 203 

Quimperld (Finist^e) 202 

Quiiijrey 102 

Qulntin 66, 2.)1 

Quissac 165 



Rabastcns 211 

Ralijcy, Le „ 233 

RHiticy-Pavillons 23) 

R linviiiors 35 

Ratsines 17 

Ramasse , ,... 188 



INDUX. 

FACE 

Ra.mhonlllQt(Seine-et'Oisfi)... 66 

Riinipillon ..,..;....;.. 261 

Ranchot 130 

Rancl, La, Iron Mines 293 

Randiu. , 220 

Randanne •> 227 

Rang-Fliers-Verton 6 

Raon r^tape 241, 261 

Raphfelo 116 

Rassuen 116 

Raucourt 247 

Ravieres 86 

Ray Pic, Fall of 160 

Razac 212 

R^almont 284 

Redon (lUe-et-Vilaine) 66, 198, 199 

Regny 81 

Rctgnac 172 

Reims (Mamej 242 

Reiuircmont (VosgesJ 249 

Renioulins 104 

Rennes CJlle-et'VilaineJ 64 

Rennes-des-Bains 285 

Resporden 202 

Ressons 19 

Rothel (Ardennes) 244 

Reterre 227 

Retiers 198 

Retooniac 147 

Reuilly 205 

Revel 283 

Revigny ,„ 288 

Rians 147 

Ribecourt 20 

Ribcmont 22 

Ribdrac (Charente Inferiewe) 

178, 212 

Richelieu , 178 

Ricy, Los 254 

Rieux Minervois 286 

Rigny de Feron 83 

Rilly-la-Montagne 242 

Riom (Puy-de'Ddnie) 221, 226 

Rion 260 

Ripault 172 

Riscle 264 

Rive de Gier 136 

Rives 106, 188 

Rivesaltes 294 

Rivifere, La 181 

Riviere-Saas 261 

Rlz, or Ris Orangis 168 

Roanne (Loire) 79,81 187 

Robiac 150, 157 

Rocamadour 209 

Roccapina 126 

Roche 131 

Roche-aux-Fees 198 

Rochechouart (Haute Vienne) 

208, 211 

RochecottQ 188 

Rocbefort (Charente J^^hri- 
^mj 178, 198 



»••••••••»» 



PAOK 

BOchefort 180, 228 

Rocliiemaure ........^...,,^08, 150; 

Roch.cpot, La 92. 

Rochps des Dames 109; 

Rochetaille 96 

Rocho Tuilibro 228 

Roche Vendcix 228 

Rochy-Condd 9 

Rocourt , 19 

Rocroy, or Rocrol 246 

Rodcz r^lveyron; ...149, 160, 230 

Roatix 10, 14 

Ro^ac 116 

Rolaiii])ont , 256 

Uolleboise ^ 86 

Romainville 288 

Romans , 107 

Romillv 34,4fi,3sl6. 2M 

Romaneche 

Roinoncourt 

Romorantin {l/nr-et'Cher) ... SM 

Roncevaux 268 

Ronchamp 257 

Roque Antheron 146 

Roquebrune 123 

Roquefort 149, 264. 285 

Roquemaure , 104 

Roquetaillarde Castle 274 

Roscoff. 67 

Rosendael 16 

Rosi^res-aux-Salines ...241, 248 

Rosicrs, Les 186 

Rosny 86 

Rosuy-sous-Bols 251 

Rosporden 209 

Rossignolet 228 

RossiUon „ 184 

Roubaix , 18 

Rouen (Seine-Inferieure) 8, 29, 51 

Rouessd-Vass^ 62 

Rougeac 228 

RouilM 19i 

Rouilly St. Loup 254 

Roujan-Nefflds IHO 

Roumazibres-Loubert ...208, 211 

Rouvray 108 

Royan 194 

Royat-les-Baius ...208, 222, 226 

Roye 9, 19 

Rue 5 

Rucll 48 

Ruffec (Charente) 176, 192 

Rugles 45 

Rumilly 184 

Ruoms • 150 



SabM 61, 187 

Sables d*01onne(Fefid^; 172, 191 

Sablonceaux •....«...., 199 

Sablona *...*. 10* 

SdbirM , * «.•• *" 



^ 



xztL 

Stony *i%k%««k*««ktov*Mi«t»««t*»»* 84T 

dMllans v..,.v......^ 101 

daitlagoHie 986 

dftillat-GhasflMioii 211 

SmiUenB 298 

Sall-lM-Bains 220 

8ail-flOtt9-Goazaii 382 

Saincalze^ 216 

St. Adreflse...^ 89 

St. AfifHqne, or St. Frlc(ilwjr- 

roH) ;...4.ii 4 149 

St. Aignan-Noyer 178 

St. Albain 94 

St. Amftnd-Montrond (Cher). 224 

Si. Amand-leH-Eaux 18 

St. AmaHfl-Seult 284 

St. Amariti 249 

St. AmbFoix »1A1, 158 

St. Amoar ....» lOi 

St. Andr^ 89 

I9t. Aiidi^'d Eaux.. 191 

it.Andre-de-M^ouiHe8...141, 144 

St. Andr^le-Oas 184, 18^ 

St. Antoine .....197, 298 

St. Aittoine-Porte Ste. Fo)*.. 179 

St. Antonhiw...^ i 210 

St. AnBiit....»».w 17 

St. Aatier .»...»..> 212 

Si. Anbaa.. 140, 147 

St. Aabin>da-CoiTOier 78 

St. Aabin-Bttr-Mev k 4^ 

St. Aanes.... A.. ....i 158 

St. Avifc 264 

St. Ay .«r.....>....^ 16t 

St. Bai»Ule-du-Patoi8 159 

St. B^at 290 

Saint Belw....% lOl) 

St.B*nolt * 176, 191 

St. Bciioit-de-8aal 286 

St. B«n»i(-Bt.-Algoan.. 224 

St. B^ron 187 

St. BerthoTin 63 

Sti Hertrand-de-Comminges 29!) 

St. Bonnet-Ie-Ch&tean 187 

St. BonRet-de-Rochcfort 225 

St. Bres 155 

St. Brioe en-Oogl^s 68, 78 

St. Brieuo, or St. Brioux...... 66 

St. Calais (Sartfu!) 196 

St. Cenery le G^rey 71 

BtC<<rtf ...v.. 213 

St. Cer^ues <.......182, 185 

St. C^saire 154 

St. Ghaiiiag..-» ■. 116 

St. Chamond 136 

St. Ch^ly 159 

St.Christoly 195 

St. Christopho ■, 210 

St. Ch^nm 164 

0t Ghinian..r«..o^^ 288 

St. Clauda (JtH^) 182, 188 

Hit Clainant-dea-Lev^«8 ••••<• 196 

" Cloud («e<nc) 42 



PAOB 

St. Colombe .......%.>«. „ 102 

81. Cyr » 88, 69 

St. Cyr rrar; 104, 121 

St. Cyr (Zoirv^ 187 

St. Cyr-en-Val 204 

St. Denis-Largcau 224 

St. Denis de Pile 179 

St. Denis-de^-Murs 208 

St. Denis en Val 204 

St. Denis-prti-Martel ...209, 212 

St. Denis {Seine) 10 

St. D^sir^ 226 

St. Di^ ( Fo«7ef) , 250 

8i. Dizier (Haute Mame) ... 245 

St Egr^re .; 106, 188 

St. Bloi 228 

St. Emilion 179 

St. Eoimie 160 

St. Erme 24 

St. Esprit 281 

St. Estbphe i 188 

St. Etienno 211 

St. Etienne (£<nr«) » 186,147 

St. Etienne de Lisse 179 

St. Etionne de Motitlue 191 

St. Etienno de Kouyray 84 

St. Etienne de St. Geoirs ... 106 

St. Fargeau, CfaAteaa of 84 

St. Feliu d'Amont 296 

St. Feliu d' Avail ...^......».... 296 

St. F^lix .....9, 288 

St. Ferr^ol Reservoir 283 

St. Fiorent. or St. Fiorensa . 127 

St. Florentin 86 

St. Flonr (CaHtal) i.. 23d 

St. Fons, or Fond 104 

St. Fov ........I...U 108 

St. Front ; »...». 72 

St. Galmier 137 

St. Gaubiirge 46, 69 

St. Gaudens 290 

St. Goly 159 

St. Genie's de Malgoires :«.... 158 

St. Genibs d'Olt 236 

St. Georges d* Aurac ...159, 228 
St. Goorges-des-Boschcrville 29 

St. Gcorgos-de-Rcnicns • 95 

St. Goorgos-du-Bois 192 

St. Geoixos-siiF-Loiro 183 

St. Ge'ours 281 

St. G^rard-do-VaUX 217 

St. G^rand Ic Puy 81 

St. Gernioin dcs FoB.4<Js...l37, 210 

St. Gcrmaiu-du-rinin 93 

St. Germain or St. Germain s 43 
St. Gormain-au-Mont d Or 81, 96 

St. Germain sar lllc 73 

St. Gervals <..... 197 

St. Gildas 199 

St. Gilles 116, 154 

St. GlUes-CroIx de Vic ...... 190 

St. Qirona>««M.Mk«.««.M^.\.....« 289 



Si.t:tttilh6in-le-t)6s6K;........ 189 

St. Ilerbot Falls ; 20$ 

St. Hilaire ..; 158, 190, 27|^ 

St. Hilaire an Temple 287 

St. Hippolvte rZ>ot«5s; ......... 18| 

St. Hlppolyte-le-Fort 165 

St. Honors 85 

St. J'aeques 230 

St. Jean d*Angely 186, 192 

St. Jean de Centennier 150 

St. Jeande-Gardonnenque... 157 

St. Jean de Losne... 129 

St. Jean de Luz 203 

St. Jean do Vnldriscle 158 

St. Jean du Gard -. 155 

St. Jean-en-Koyans... 106 

St. Jean le Cantal 277 

St. Jean Pied-de-Port 263 

St. Jean-sur-Erve 61 

St. Jodard 136 

St. Jory 279 

St. Jnlien 157, 183 

St. Jnlien de Cassagnas )53 

St. Julien-de-Tonmel 148 

St. Julien de Sault 68 

St. Jalien-en^Meau Chgne... 1^9 

St. Julien-en-6eneva 185 

St. Julien-le-Vcndonnais ... 20§ 

St. Junien : 208 

St. Ju8t....i ;.9, 20, 136 

St. Jnst'St. Mnrcol 104 

St. Just-sur-Loire 104, 232 

St. Lager 150 

St. Laurent 102, 132 

St. Lanrent de la Pree : 198 

St. Laurent->dcs-Bains 15iE^ 

St. Jjaurent-deS'Oombes 178 

St. Laurent-de-Mui-e 137 

St. Lanrent-dn-Pont 187, 138 

St. Laurent-St.-Panl 291 

St. Leger ' 92 

St. Lcger-de-Foucheroiae ... 87 

St. L^onard..i 208, 250 

St. Leu d'Esserent 9, 25 

St. I-<eu Travemey 11 

St. Lizier 289 

St. Ld (Manehe) 52, 70 

St.Loubfes 180 

St. Louis de RhOne ] 16 

St. Lonp 98, 25(1 

St. Luce : 188 

St. Macaii'e 274 

St. Madeleine Island 176 

St. Malxcnt 192 

St. Malo (lUe-et- Vilaine) 75 

St. Mammas  81 

St. Marcel 109, 121 

St. Marvel's Abbey 98 

St. Marcellin 107 

St. Marcens 190 

St. Mards Orboe • 46 

St. Mftri«.iwiiai^....4....ii.;.... 19t 
St. Marlens 19« 



INDEX. 



*xxvii. 



PAOK 

St. Mars-la-Brny^re 60 

8t. Mart 222 

8t. Martin 116, 159 

St. Martin d'Aubiijny ?04 

St. Martin-de-BouUlac 210 

St. Martin-de-la-Place 186 

St. Martin-de-Mailloc 47 

St. Martin-d'-Oney 263 

St. Martin d'Uriage 139 

St. Martin's Abbey 296 

St. Martory 290 

St. Mathieu Abbey 68 

St. Mathuriu 186 

St. Mande 261 

St. Maur 186 

St. Maurice 185, 249 

St. Mauricc-BussaUtf 249 

St Maur-lc-Pont 78 

St. Maur-Port-Craeil 251 

St. Mddard 212 

St. Mcdard dXyraus 273 

St. Mcnehould 244 

St. Menet 121 

St. Mcnonx 223 

St. Mesmin 199, 253 

St. Michel-de-Maarienne 185 

St. Michel Montaigne 179 

St. Mlchel-sur-Charente 177 

St. Michel- sur-Orge 164 

St. Mihiel 289 

St. Nabord 249 

St. Nazaire 191, 198 

St. Nectaire 228 

St. Nicolas 277 

St. Olivet 204 

St. Omcr-en-Chanss^e .......5, 14 

St. Omcr (Fcu-de-Calau) 11 

St. Oueu 10 

St. Ouen rAumono 25 

St. Oucn-du-BreuU 41 

St. Palais 267 

St. Pardoux 2 5 

St. Pateme 197 

St. Patrice 184 

St. Parres-Ies-Vaudcs 254 

St. Paulet Chateau 283 

St. Paul de Fenouillet 293 

St. Paul-les-Dax 260 

St. Paul Trois-Ch&toaux 109 

St. P^ 271 

St. Pepoul 284 

St. P6ray 108,106, 107 

St. Pbre-en-Rctz 190 

St. Pierre 81, 135 

St. Pierre d'Albigny 135 

St. Pierre d'Aurillac 274 

St. Pierre do Boeuf 103 

St. Pierre-des-Corps 197 

St. Pierre du Corps 170 

St. Pierre du Vouvray 34 

St. Plerre-la-Cour 63 

3t. Pierre le Montier 217 

St. Pi«rre-leB-Calais 2 

•C 



PAQR 

St. Pierrc-8ur,Dlve 47 ' 

St. Pol-dc-L^on 67 

St. Pol (Pas-de-CalaisJ 6, 15 

St. Pons 284, 287 

St. Pour^ain 218 

St. Priest 137 

St. Quentin (AitrieJ 9,20, 21, 139 

St. Rambert 96 

St. Rambert d'Albon 105 

St. Rambert de Joux 133 

St. Raphael 141 

St. Remy 114, 1«2 

St. Remy en Rollat 220 

St. Reraj--du-Plain 70 

St. Robert 138 

St. Roch 7 

St. Roraain 95, 135 

St. Romain de Colbosc 39 

St. Romain en Gal 104 

St. Romain-le-Pny 186 

St. Riquicr 7 

St. Salpice-Lauri^rc 206 

St. Satumin d' Avignon 113 

St. Sauveur 49, 84, 272 

St. Savinicn 194 

St. Saviol 176 

St. Scbastien 206 

St. Seine, or Seine I'Abbaye. 87 

St. Seruin 149 

St. Servan 76 

St. Seurin 183 

St. Sever 70 

St. Sever (Landes) 264 

St. Simon 21 

St. Sorlin 133 

St. Sulpice 180, 211 

St. Sulpice-Laurler 170, 206 

St. Suzanne 62 

St. Symphorien (Gironde)18i, 274 

St. Symphorien de Lay 137 

St. Symphorien d'Ozon 103 

St. Thd„'onnec 67 

St. Tbibault-de-Cour 137 

St.Tropcz 123 

St. Vuast-BoviJle 41 

St. Vaast-la-Hogue 51 

St. Valery-en-Cuux 41 

St. Valery-sur-Somme 5 

St. Vallier 106 

St. VaJlieres 183 

St. Ve'ndrand 194 

St, Victor 28 

St. Victoire 10 

St. Vlncont-de-Tyrosse 261 

St. Vit 180 

St. Vrain 164 

St. Wandrillc 41 

St. Yrieix 209 

Ste. Anne d' Auray 200 

Stc. Bazeille 274 

Stc. Catherlne-de-Fierbras.. 172 

Stc. Lizaiiie 2i 5 

;3te. Lucio 298 



PAOR 

Stc. Marie S86 

Ste. Marie-aux-Mines 860 

Ste. Maure 178 

Ste. Menehould (AfarneJ ... 287 

Ste. Mferc Kglise 49 

Ste. Pazanne ]90 

Sainte Christie 276 

Saintes Maiies, Lcs 154 

Saintes 178, 186, 100, 194 

Salaisc 105 

Salbris 204 

Salccs 298 

Saldchan 290 

Salenies 147 

Salcux 8 

Salies-de-Bdarn 267 

Salies-de-Salat 18i* 

Salindres 150, 151, 158 

Salines d'Hybtes, Les 123 

Salins 129 

Sallcs-Comtaux Fall 281 

Salles-Courbaties 210 

Sallcs-La Source 210 

Salonnes 241 

Samer 6 

Sancerre (Cher) 216 

Sannois 26 

Sansan 277 

Sanxay 191 

Sargd 196 

Sarlat (Dordogne) 21» 

Sarlieves 228 

Sarrancolin 291 

Sartcne 128 

Sarxeau 200 

Sassenagc 139 

Satlionay 102 

Satiijny 185 

Saubusse 261 

Saujon 194 

Saulce 109 

Saulccs-Monelin 241 

Saulieu 87. 

daulxures 219 

Siiumur (Maine t t-LoireJ 1 75, ] 8 '» 

S.iussay 34 

Snussaj'-Yervillc 41 

S:iut-de-Uoubs Fall 183 

Saut-du-I^up 2V3 

Sautcrne 274 

Sauve 158 

Sauveterre 267 

Siiuveur-lc-'rcch, Le 296 

Savenay('Z>oire-//f/CT-te«re^l91,199 

Savcrdun 3^i< 

Savigny 90 

Savigny-en-Septaiuc 216 

Saviifny-sur-Orge 164 

Savonnicres 188 

Sceaux 60 

Sccaux Ceintnre Iwl 

8cean\(Seine) 

SecUi^res ..•......••.... 



//^ 



fkbirmeck 281 

BchMbBUa^(Ba»JikiH) ...... SOO 

(B«oltai » M 

iSeoondigny... 199 

»46an (Ardmmei} 247 

Se^ 71 

6eg«la 283 

Segonnamx 114 

Begr4 (Mmine-et'LoIr^ «t« 197 

Seine rAbbaye 87 

Selles-snr-Gher 178 

Selomm^ 196 

8emnoB Alp 134 

Semiir ..• 86 

BenliB fOiH) 9 

Senneoey-le-Orand 98 

Bomevoy.... $6 

BeaonetMt .%.» (9 

Scnones ....»..».....» 24l 

Beiiosan • 94 

iSefls f FMiiei $2 

BeptMonoe! 182 

Sept Banli 2)7 

Beresin... 19^ 

Sermaite * 288 

Serri^ros 103 

•Berriffi»y 90 

Serquettx 8 

^erqaiyny 46 

Berros ..a 106 

Berrian 288 

BerrJiwt 104 

Benron 64 

6«uiTe 129 

B^^rao 149, 160 

ftevran 22 

ehrrw 42 

j^tnArti Rail 194 

Beyssel.... 185 

B^sanne 284,248 

Sierra di Pigno 197 

Bisny L*Abbay6 244 

Bi^nAl de Noire „... 286 

SWans 147 

^ill^-le-Onillaome 61, 70 

Billery 287 

Shnorre 2(J7 

Sionne-MidreToUx 2-18 

Biorae 212 

«trcuH 177 

Binteron (BaMe$Alpes)..A4i^, 147 

Boissons (Aimt^ 19, 98, 244 

Bolaise 103 

Boic»»mea 92, 187 

Boff^rino 260 

6oll;?ny la Trappe S9 

SollRcaro 126, 128 

Sollies Pont 128 

Bologne, La 204 

Bonain 14, 17 

8ommvsua« , 284, 297 

Bommi^res ,., Ud 

90rtr:";;;.M"v-""-"-.M 219 



IKPBX. 

Sore 274 

Sor^za .....^..;....;.'..... 288 

Sottevaat....... 49 

SotteviUe....... 29 

Soiua 284 

Boachont,Le8 189 

BovLg6 196 

Souillac 208, 209 

Soulac 183 

Soupex 283 

Sonppes ^ 8t 

Bourdeval 70 

Soaterraine, La » 206 

Sourigny 225 

Soveria.... 126 

Soyons 108, 107 

Bteanbeoque 11 

Staanwerak 12 

Stenay -288, 247 

Straxeela ; 12 

StretUf La 126 

Sued :. 190 

Sacy-Bonneail 251 

Salppes 2^ 

Bally 224 

Suriion 69^ Tl 

Snresnea ;..' 42 

Surg^rei ..;......... 192 

Siunrilliera ;.... 10 

Sary-la-Comtal ; 116 

Sqm 145 

Suae, La .«1. 197 

Tagnon 244 

Tallleboarg. 186, 192, 194 

Tain 106 

Taisd Chfttean 98 

Talant 90 

Talmay 129, 1(J6 

Tamaris, Laa 131 

TamarU 158 

TancaryUle Castle 40 

Tanlay 85 

Tantonville 241 

Tarare 81 

Tarasron 114, 161, 293 

Tarbes (Hautst Pyren^) ... 264 

Tarcifl 261. 

Tardets 267 

Tartas 260 

Tei«h, Le 259 

Tell, Le 59, 103 

Teillet-Argenty 227 

Tenay 134 

Tennie 61 

Tergrnier 8, 20, 25 

Ternay 103 

Terraasmi 227 

Teireiioti^ 1|6 

TessoHHttrea ....... .•..)...211, 281 



The ill ay, or Theillay-le- 
A auiaiix ........................ sUv 

Thenoii...........,.M.....M.« 927 

Tbidfosse 249 

Thiennea i 11 

Thiers (Pug-de-D&mt) 232 

Thi^zac 230 

Thionvillc 247 

Thlvlers 211 

Thomery 80 

Thouon 135 

Thonarcd ^ 187 

Tbooaro 186, 188 

Thooars » 172 

Thouron 176 

Thoorotie 19 

Thaes-en-TravaUU 296 

Thneyts 150 

Thuisy 287 

Tiered 61 

Titfauges Castle ;... 198 

Tilliiree 69 

Tinchebrai 70 

Tocqneville 50 

Tonnay-Charenta 190, 194 

Tonneins (Lot-et-OatomteJ ... 274 

Tonnerro fl^mm^ 85 

TonquMee 67 

Torigny ....,; 70 

Tnrnae Cbitean ... 157 

Tottcy ..,. .>.. 85 

Toul 989 

Toulon (Var) 121 

Toulouse (iZa«l«-0iiroltfi0)149,279 

Tonrcoing .- 13 

Tour d'Auvergne, La 227 

Tour de Hillery, La 135 

Tour-sans-Venln, La 139 

Tourmalet Pass 266 

Tournaa 251 

Toumay 291 

Toumehem 11 

Tournemire 160, 229 

Toumon (Ardeehe) 103 

Toumon-St. Martin 173 

Tonmus 93 

Tours (Indre-tt-Loirt) ...170, 184 

Tourville 34 

Toury 165 

Tramesalgues 2^)2 

Trappes 56 

Trobes ., 286 

Tr^castel 203 

Tr6guier ..« 67 

Tretgnac 212 

Trelaae 186 

TromUly 255 

Tr^molat 212 

Tr^port 6, 26 

Trots 123, 144 

Treveray ..,, 2:19 

Tr%ves-Burel 13JS 

T|«¥e«« (ilM) ...;9t6, 102 



IKDEX. 



3CX1X. 



PAQE 

TrieChfttean 35 

Trtcl ; 37 

Trilport, or Trie le Port 234 

Troam 4B 

. Trod 196 

Trourille-Deauville 51 

Troyes (Anbe) 253 

Tulle (Corrfize) 226 

TnUins 107 

Tnrcnne 20» 

. tarln 146 

Uchaud, or Uchaux 164 

Uchijsy 94 

Ureury 263 

Uriape 139 

Unmgne 263 

Vrt 2b6 

• tJr»y ;...w 8'> 

• UscladM ::..; 224 

^ Vssat Baths 293 

Ussel 226 

Uzel 66, 201 

*- tJK«rche *.«..2d8, 209 

Uzfes COard) 158 

Uzeste * .,.**.••■•.•• 2i4 

Vaa« 197 

' Vaast la Hongiie 50 

• Vaj^ney 249 

Vaise 96 

Vai«on« 110 

Vnivre 250, 257 

Valance d' Agon... 267 

Valay 130 

Val d'Arran 290 

Val d'Arvieux 145 

Val d'Asse 270 

Val d'Aure 291 

Val dcs Dunes 47 

Val de Lys 291 

Val de Nestes 291 

Val d'Ossau 270 

Valdoune 121 

Valen^ay 205 

Valence (Drdtne) 107, 150 

Valence d'Agen 277 

Valenciennes (Nord) "17 

Valergues 156 

Val Fresslnifere 145 

Vallauris 142 

Vftllet .'. 190 

Valiom 150 

Vallon 224 

Valmanya 296 

Valmondols 25 

Valmy 237 

Valognes (Manehe) 49 

Val Richer 47 

ValB 150 

Val Suzeuay 255 



PAOB 

VilTravers 131 

Vanderiesse ; 85 

Vandoeuvres 72 

Vannes (Morbihan) 200 

Vanvres 63 

Var, or St. Laurent du Var. 143 

Varades 188 

Varanges 147 

Varangerille- St. - Nicliolas - 

du-Port 241, 248 

Varangeville 27 

Varenncs 185, 235, 287 

Varennes le Grand 93 

Varenncs- 8ur-AHier 81, 218 

Varilhes 292 

Vars 177 

Varzy 85 

Vassivierres 228 

Vassy, or Wassy (EfAute 

Mame) 246 

Vatan ;.. 205 

Vattay, La.; 132 

Vauchamps 235 

Vaucluse 113 

Vaucoleurs 239 

Vaudois 144 

Vaugirard 53 

Vaugris ids 

Vaulry 176 

Vaulx-Milieu 137 

Vaumoise 22 

Vauvcnargues 146 

Vautert ; 154 

Vaux-Praslin, or Vaux-le- 

Vicomte ;.... 79 

Vaux-snr-Aubigny 256 

Vavrette, La 133 

Vnyres 179 

Vccottx 249 

Velnrs 88 

Velluire 196 

Vclosnes 247 

VeUi 19 

Vcnasque 291 

Vence-Cagnes 143 

Veneurque-le-Vemey 292 

Vendeuvre 214 

Venddmo (Loire-et-Cher) 164 

Vendrangea St. Priest 137 

Venissieiix 187" 

Ventimiglia 145 

Verberic 18 

Verchin 15 

Verdun 237, 246, 279 

Veretz 172 

Vcrgese 154 

Vcrgonnes 190, 197, 198 

Vermenton , 84 

Vernaison 135 

Vemantes 185 

Vernet 296 

Veniet d'Arie'ge 292 

Verncuil 45, 59, 69, 208 



PAO< 

Ternonil Chanjnes ,.. 251 

Vcmetill I'Etftng ; 251 

Vernon 35 

Vernou 170 

VernouiHet 37 

Verrcy-sous-Salmaise 87 

Verron 197 

Versailles (iSWri«-«<-C«»e) 64 

VcMlgny 24 

Vertnizon 232 

Verteuil Ch&teau 176 

Verton 5, 190 

Vertus 256, 253 

Vervins (Attne) 24 

Verzeilles 285 

Vesinet 43 

Vesoul(^att««-fi'<WJntf)130,250, 257 

Veuve, La 237 

Veiixaulles 254 

Veynes 108, 1«9; 140 

V^zcley :..i 84 

Vdzelise »» }J41 

Vczenobres J68 

Vezin ■i247 

ViaAureiia ;... , 286 

Vianne ^75 

Vias :.. 288 

Vic «J4l 

VicdessoB '293 

Vic-Blgorro 2C4 

Vichy les Bafns 219 

Vic le Comte 222 

Vic-sur-Cfere 230 

Vidauban ;; •.. 123 

Vieille .; ....;.. 292 

Viferileville ...v '206 

Viella 290 

Vienne (/jer«) 105 

VIerzon, or Vierzon Ville 172, 205 

Vierzy 23 

Viescamp-sur-Jall^s 209, 229 

Vieux Bocalt 261 

Vif 139 

Vignay 165 

Vignory 246 

Vigny Chateau 37 

Vihiers 186 

Villard d'Arfene 145 

Villars 93, 136 

Villars Ghalamont 102 

ViUandrant Castle 274 

Villebaudon 62 

Villebois 133 

Villebon 53 

Villedaigne 286 

Ville d'Avray 42 

Villedieu-les-Poeles 70 

Villefagnan 176 

Villefort 159 

Villefranche 143, 296 

Villef ranche {Haute Garonne) 283 

Villefranche (Rhdne) 

Villefranche de Longchapt.. 



f 



XXX. 

PAOB 

Villefmnche de Ronergue 

(^iwynm) 210 

Yillefrancho-de-BelY^s 218 

Villefranche-tur-Cher ...178, 208 

Villemoalagne 295 

Vlllenauxe 252 

Vlllenave d'Omon 278 

Villeneuve 157, 210 

VillcneuTe d'Agen {Loi-ti- 

Garonne) 214 

Villeneuve-8ur-Allier 81, 217 

Vllleneuve-r-Archev6que 88, 254 

VIlIencuve-les-Avignon 104 

Villeneuve do Berg 150 

Villeneave-le8-B<$ziers 288 

VIlleneuve-la-Guyard 82 

VlllcneuTe St. Georges ...78, 168 

Villeneuve le Roy .«78, 163 

Vilieneuve-sur-Yonnc 88 

Villennes 87 

Vlllenouvelle 288 

VlUepatour-Coubcrt 251 

Villeperdue 178 

Villequier 41 

Viller* - 84 

Vnien-aur-Mer 51 

Viller»<;otterdt8 22 

Villersexel 257 

Villers-Outreanx 22 

VlUers-tire-Nlcole 22 

Vilierupt 217 

VUlerville 51 

VJietour Spa 221 

Vmette, La 281 

Ville VieUle 144, 154 



" ind£x. 

PAOB 

Villiera-le-Bel-Gonesse 10 

Villiers-sur-Mame 251 

Vimoutiers 47 

Vimpellos 252 

Vincennes 77, 251 

Vlndrac 211 

Vin^hanaps .^ 71 

Vinpa 296 

Violaines 12 

Vire (Calv'do*) 70 

Vlrieu-le-Graud 184, 137 

VIroflay 42, 54 

Virton „ 246 

Viscos 271 

Vissant 14 

\itr4 iPte-€t-Vilaine) 68 

Vitrcy 256 

Vitrolles 116 

Vitry 14 

Vitry-aux-Loges 88 

Vltry-la-Ville 238 

Vltry-le-Franpols iMat-ne)... 238 

Vitry-l08-Reinis 244 

Vitry-Bur-Seine 162 

Vitteaux 87 

Vittel 239 

Vlvario... 124, 126 

Vivier8 JOS 

Vlviez 210 

Vivoin-Beaumont 70 

Vivonne 176 

VlBille 189, 145 

Vogutf 102 

VogU^-V«l8 ^ 150 

Voiron 106, 187 



PAOK 

Volnay,orVolleney 91 

Volvlc 220 

Volx 147 

Vonnas I3'{ 

Voreppe 106, 107. 137 

Vougeot 90 

Voujaucourt 131 

Voutre' 62 

Vouvray 170 

Vouzter8 {Ardennes) 244 

Vovea 164, 167 

Vulaines 83 

Wallers 17 

Warluls 2t 

Watton 11 

Weilerthal 5 

Wesserllng 249 

Wimereux 8 

Wimille S 

Xertigny 219 

YainTille-Jumi^ges.. 41 

Ychoux 260 

Yfevr«-lc-ChAtel 168 

Yffiniac 66 

Ygos 263 

Yssingcaux {Haute Loire) ... 14ft 

Ytrac 229 

Yvctot {Seine Jn/erieure) ... 40 
Yvrd-rEreque 60 



INTRODUCTION. 



I. 

PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR THE TRAVELLER. 

In drawing^ up the following instructions, we take it for granted that the traveller is provided with 
Br<»dshaw*s Continental Railtoajf Cfuide^* as an indispensable companion to visitors on the Continent; - 
and reference is, therefore, made frequently to that book, in order to avoid unnecessary repetition here. , 
It gives the latest information respecting Hotels, Passports, Chaplains, Medical Men, Bankers, Popula- . 
tion. Railways, Steamers, and other matters which are liable to change. 

1. WHAT SHOULD BE DONE IN LONDON-PASSPORTB-MONEY— LUGK3AGE. 

Passport. — This is still almost indispensable, and can be obtained in England through our 
Agents, Messrs. W. J. Adams and Sons, 69, Fleet Street. It should be kept in the pocket, for production 
on demand, or in order to get admission to public buildings, &c., and generally to facilitate oucCs 
movements everywhere. It is the stranger's certificate of identity and his best iutrodnction to . 
official persons of all grades. See directions in Bradsliaw's Continental Ouide. 

Money.-^See Bradshaw^i Continental Ouide^ and the table below. Bank of England notes are 
negotiable in most of the principal towns, and sovereigns are received ; but the best. )>lan is to change 
your English money into French gold at a money changer's in London or in France (changeur - 
agent de change): at the hotels and railways a deduction is made for this accommodation. Sovereigns 
(not half-sovereigns) will pass anywhere, this is not the case with English notes; English silver is use- 
less. In calculating expenses 10s. to 25s. per head per day may be allowed. The latter sum win 
cover all charges of living in the best hotels, travelling by first-class railway, and the best places in . 
the coach. In the country inns, board and lodging may be had for 6 to 10 francs a-day. Living 
was so cheap in Brittany, that "Nimrod" says a man may live there like a prince on £60 to £100 
E-year; of course at a sacrifice of many English comforts. Prices have advanced considerably even in 
Brittany. 

Money aecountt in France (as well as Belgium and Switzerland) are kept in franca and centimes (or 
hundredths) ; the d^cimes (or tenths) not being specially mentioned. 

FRENCH > ENOUSH. 
1 (ttiter) franc s= 10 dtfcimes =s 100 (copper) centimes =s 30 sons sa 9|d. English. 
Therefore, 1 sou &= 6 centimes ss |d. 

20 francs s= 1 louis (gold) a 168. 

100 francs ss £4. 

The franc exceeds the old Livre Tournois by 1^ per cent. (U centimes). 

ENGLISH— FRENCH. 
£l = 25i or 25J francs, according to the rate ofExchangi. 
Is. = 1 J franc or 26 sous. 
Id. 3= 10 centimes or 2 sous. 
Tlie modem French gold coins are pieces of 5, 10, 20, and 40 francs ; 25 franc pieces are rare. The 
silver cc4m are pieces of 20 centimes, 60 centimes or } franc, 1 franc, 2 francs, and 6 francs. Silver Is 
le^al tender to any amount. Italian, Belgian, Swiss, and Greek coins are current. 



• PnbliahM monthly, Ss. Spedal sditton. with mAps. 4e.. 9i. Od. Adnms and Sons, 08, VlMt BtrMt 



r 



XXxii* IKTRODtrCTlON. 

Luggage and DreBS.— The less laggage yoQ take the better, as all luggage above 601b8. weight, or 
so, is charged for on the Continent, so that, in this case, it is as necessary to got a ticket for the Ivffgage 
as a ticket for the fare. For the ordinary traveller, a small bag is enough, with half-a-dozen shirts, 
two pairs of socks, and as few other things as possible. Brown, grey, or dark-coloared dresses 
are fittest for both gentlemen and ladies ; and as to the style, let it be simple. A light overcoat, and an 
umbrella for a stick are essential. The pedestrian must, of course, put on a stout pair of double soled 
shoes, and wear gaiters, especially as the roads are more dusty than ours. It is also preferable for 
such to wear coloured cotton or flannelette shirts. Good knapsacks may be got abroad. The French 
ioe militaire is very haAdy and complete. 

tiett6n.~-Tbe traveller will find it convenient to have his letters addressed to him, »*/^»< RatmU^'^ 
*.«., till called for, in the various towns in which he expects to be. They will be dellrered at the post- 
offlce on the traveller's address card being shown. The title ** Esq." should be avoided, as It leads to 
confusion. Telegrams to be called for should be addressed ^^ Bureau RetlanteJ** 

< 

WAY TO GET TO FRANCE, AND DIRECTIONS ON LANDING. 

(F4>r ftU neceasary detail* 0ee "JBrad9hw'iC(mti9entnlOuidc''} 

Calais Route (<«« Route 1).— London to Paris, direct, Hd Dover and Calalf , 298 miles (sea passage^ ' 
91 1 miles), in 7f to 9 hours, from the iSouth Eastern Railway Stations at C^iaiing Cross and Can n oh 
Street, the London^ Chatham^ and Dover Railway Stations at Victoria or Holbom Viaduct. A Night 
Service (1, 2, Z class) at reduced fares. 

^QUlOguei EOUte (««« Route 2).— London to P^ii, direct, vi^ FoU^e^tone »|id Boulogne^ 2«0 miles 
(s^a passage, 25j^ miles), in 7| to 9 hoai'9, from the South Eastern Stations at Gbi^lnr Cross «md Pannoa 
StrcQt. Night Service at lower fares. 

Dieppe Route (Me Route 6). — ^London to Paris direct, Hd Newhaven and Dieppe, 246 miles (sea 
passage, 64 miles). Trains leave the London^ Brighton, and South Coast RaUwajf Stations at London 
Bridge or Victoria. 

9^^79 ROl^tfl (*^ Route l)).^-: London to Paris, ?f| Southampton #a4 P^anre, ^^ miloi 
(sea passage, 120 miles), from the London and South Western Railway Station at Waterloo Bridge. 

OherlHmrg Route.— From Southampton, by the South Western Steamers, Tuesdays, Thursdays, 
and Saturdays, at 10 80 p.m., at through Jares. 

If staying at a French port, make up your mind as to the hotel you choose, as, by so doing, you 
may secure to yourselves the services of the porter of that hotel direetty you land, and save imnoyanco 
from the touters who crowd at the landing. No baggage, except a small parcel, or a carpet bag (at night) 
is allowed to be taken ashore by the passengers; it Is detained at the Douane or Custom House, 
where you may clear it yourself (see Bradshaw's Continental Guide^ page ii, for customs regulatioiisX 
or pay a eommissionnaire to clear it. 

The regular charge when you clear it is, per package, 7 sous (3|d.), if.nnder lOlbs.; 14 sous from 10 
to 561bs. ; 1 franc, above that weight ; every packet being charged, so that the fewer you take the better. 
For carriage to the hotel you pay a porter 60 cents. (6d.) for the first package, and 26 cents, for each of 
theQthers, 

When leaving a French port for England, you may bring back, free of duty, a pint of sptrlti, |tb. 
' ^irs, and half a pint of ean-de*Cologne, or li<inenr. Luggage can be reglafered dlr«et to London, hj 
of thfii Uains U> ^onneetton ir^b the 3(w<A Msmm^ and ZkNu^ C^Aom, oM Dowr JM/ms, 



^ 



iKTROBttcrtoir. xxxlli. 

UVIKG II? FRjJlNCB— POTELS-^LOpGINQS, 
8otdUh-TaUt d^6t9.-r-Wh^ ^qu go to an inn choose your l>e4 at opce, aupi'it»i*r, (|lt< sicpnd^ ay 
h*(f%fiime, Ac., on the Ist, 9nd, or 9rd 9torey ; the higher storeys being the cheapest. Thp ayprage for ta 
ehambre is 2 to S francs in a middle class hotel. It is not in all cases necejjsaiy tljat yon should take 
your meals in the hotel, though it may be advisable to dp so as often as convenience peripits. Prencjj- 
men seldom make more than two regular meals. Breakfast, usually taken at noop, costs 1} to 2| francs. 
If yjou come back to the table oTMte (ordinary) kept at every hotel at a fixed hour, at a charge of 
from S to 5 francs, you may safely trust yourself to the landlord, who presides, to loo^ after you,.. , 
The uaual dinner hour all over France is 6, or, at latest, 7 o'clof k. Coffee and liqueurs are charge^ 
separately. The drink is vin ordinaire (common wine), a bottle of which is usualtp included ii;i the , 
clxarg? for dinner. In Normandy this is not unfrequently replaced by cider. The prices named of cours.^ 
do not apply to the first class hotels of the large towns and sea-side or health resorts. It is still 
advisable for English travellers to go to the best hotels, excepting in the largest tow^s, atid to avoi^ 
the strictly French hotel, as there are many things not satisfactory froqi our point of view, Few dishes 
in France require a knife. Servants are paid in the bill, 1 to 1| franc a day for each person. 

If you order a dinner at a hotel or restauraut, order it at so much a head, as **ili09r k deux fran^p 
et demi** (2| francs), ^' diner k trois" or **k quatre'* francs (8 or i francs), 4(0. { ot c»U for the bill qf 
fare ('carie) and choose for yourself, out of a Ipng list of various dishes. In Paris, and in thfii. 
larger towns, the restaurants are now io good ttuit it is beat to diDte fcl^re ao4 Sfte iiiiore of the peo|d.e. 

Lodgings— 8ervaat«.— When you make a stay at any place, the cheapest plan of living is to take 
furnished rooms at a private house or hotel CMtel garni, or maison meublSeJ. You may get them at all ' 
prices ; the furniture is much more simple than in England. Have a written agreement, signed by 
both parties, with an inventory of every article, however trifling, and, if advisable from the time of 
year, a stipulation that the landlord pays the furniture tax. Rent is payable in advance. 

Serrantf are engaged by the month; they may be sent Ayr^, or they may leave, at any tims, |>^ 
Pfyin^ up to the day. It is most economical to hire one to come a little while, every day, tp yQ\^ 
lodgings, and to bring meals from the shop of the nearest traiteur (CQok), fvho will rcgjolarly send |b|/| 
bill ^f fare to choose from, and supply hot dishes at any hour you please. This convenient arrangemojui^t 
is very common in France. If yon want to examine any town, Ac, in a hurry, the best thijiig is to hifp 
a la^is deplace^ at 5 or 6 francs a day (finding himself), to act as a guid.e an4 servant. 

VfUw travelling, " a pair of waterproof sheets may be cjirrisd with you as a preteaqtiop ^8f4f0 d|ugap 
beds, which, however, are seldom met with in France or Italy. Ssseoce of gingeir is a VPf^fiol ftlf)Au)f«^tj| . 
ap4 a U#-s|ioouf nl in a cup of tea, on arriving after a d4y> jonmey, is rery rj^fr efditog. Tiioa^ jfho $fp 
in weak health, and travellers in general, should eat yery sparingly ^f avimal l9o4 oj^ f, Jenrney, a| it > 
tends to pro4aco heat and flushing. Black tea is qb9 of the most useful ajr.tlcl|»f tritiyellers Cfn b# . 
proTided with, as it is seldom good in small tow^a or ^t inns on the road.'* ^ 

'As to personal demeanour, tt Is scarcely necessary to add, that civility and kindness will proeura a 
welcome anywhere. " One toueh of nature makes the wliole world kin," says the poet. When the 
aathorities (gendarmes, Ac.) ask for explanation, be ready to give it, with temper and openness. The 
most InsigniScant official abroad participates in the cares of government, and assumes, in oonsequeneef 
a very dignified air when dealing with a stranger ; but do not mind this, lift youf hat (this goes a ' 
great way, iAdaed, with every pativB yon apeak to) and answer him as politely as if he were the Prtffet 
de Police. Above all things do not trouble your head about Fnaoi^i politics. Great oare must be 
observed with regard to sketching on the ooasi, or nfar the frontiers, or in the neigbbonrhood of any 
fortifications j the latter Is absolutely forbidden, as also climbing ptliicdei, entering military wtelosurei^ 
Ao., and aikfaig qMatioiiB respeeting defentlTe workii 



r 



RAILWAYS-CONVEYANCES— WEIGHTS— MEASURES. 

E&UW&y 3.— A. full list of Riiiliv^ays is given in Bt^dshaw's Continental Guide, and they arc so clearly 
tridicfltcd in this Hand-Book, by printing the Stations uniformly in thick /j^/v, throughout the work, , 
that it is useless to say much about them here. All the important localitios in France arc now brought 
into dally communication with Taris and with each other. 

The groat Railway Companies of France are Six, corresponding to the number of sections in this 
)Iaiid-Book, and are as follow : — 

1 . Chenun de For du Nord, or Northern— Paris to Calais, Boulogne, Dunkirk, Brussels, Cologne, Ac. 
Main lin« to Calais, 185i miles. 

*i. De rOuest, or West and North West— Paris to Rouen, Havre, Dieppe, Cherbourg, Renn«8, Brest. 
Main line to Brest, 387 miles. 

8. D'Orldans, or South West and Centre— Paris to Bordeaux, Nantes, Rochefort, P^rlgnenx, Cler- 
mont-Ferrand, Ac. Main line to Bordeaux, 368| miles. 

4. Du Midi, or South— Bordeaux to Bayonne, Cette, &c. Main line to Cctte, 296 miles. 

^. De Lyon, Paris, Mediterran^e (P. L. M.), or South East— Paris to Lyons, Marseilles, Cette, Gencrft, 
Grenoble, Salins Ac. Main line to Marseilles, 536 miles. 

6. De TEst, or East — ^Paris towards Strasbourg, Mulhouse, &c. 

The total length of lines in actual working in 1893 was about 28,800 miles; includingtheDombds and 
Bad-Est lines, in the P. L. M. district, and the State lines in the Orleans district. Bradihaw't CcntU 
nental Railway Guide registers all the new openings from month to month. 

The trafHc is carefully parcelled out to each system of railways, and each line of the system, so that 
vehicles, to places off a line, run from certai n stations, and from those only. In France, b^ore a line is opened 
not only the rail, but the carriages, engines, stations, and all other details are looked into bythe autboriticst 
with a paternal eye to the safety of the public, who on the English side of the water are accustomed 
totakecareof themselyes. French railways are cheaper and as comfortable as English; the first and 
second class seats are stuffed ; they are heated, in winter, with metal cases of hot water, covered with 
sheep skins ; first-class fare is Ifd. and second-class l^d. per mile, on the avcragre. Children, however, 
pay full fare above six or eight years. Trains do not run so often or so fast, but still they run much 
faster than in Belgium or most parts of Germany. 

The conveyances (called cor re«po»Jancf«), running from the stations on the railways in conneition 
with the trains, are given in tliis work; as well as the steam-boats (bateaux-a-vapeur) from the 
ports. Many places of interest can only be visited by means of these, and enquiry should be made 
before starting, as to which trains are served by these corretpondancei. Diligences (stage coaches) 
run six to ten miles an hour, at an average rate of l|d. per mile. 

WelglltB and MeasnreB are reckoned according to the metrical system, so called from the m^tl^, 
the fundamental unit for long, square, and cubic measures, equal to 3 ft. 8f in. English. Other units, all 
derived from the m^tre. are — ^the litre (or cubic d^cimbtre) for liquids and dry goods, the itire (er coble 
m^tre) for wood and solids, the are (or square of 100 square metres) for land, and the gramme for 
weights; which last is the weight of a cubic d^cimbtre of water at the temperature of 4* Centigr. All 
these follow the common numeration system ; but to express tens, hundreds, Ac, the French use the 
Greek prefixes of increase, deca, hecto, kilo, mpria, or tenfold, hundredfold, Ac; while for tenths, 
hundredths, thousandths, they use the Latin prefixes of decrease (all ending in i), deci, centi, miUi^ or 
teittb part, hundredth part, thousandth part. 

A Myriam^tre = 10,000 metres. 



Kilometre = 1,000 metres. 
Ilcctombtre =s lODmMres. 
Dtfcam^tre =s lOra^trfes. 



AJlf;^fr«,theba8e) __ (Ton millionth part of a quar- 
of all the rest) ~* (ter of theterrestrial meridian. 

DdJrabtre =1 = ^V ""^t™- 

Centimetre = -01 = ^^^ mfetre. 

Millimetre <= 001 s ^^i^, m^tre. 



INTRODUCTIOV. 



XXXVi 



Thus they answer to decimals, altering their name and raluc according to the place of the decimal 



p61nt. 

EMOLISH fEET. 

On this plan, a Mitre being 3*381 

ad^ciniMrcis ^281 

and a centimetre is *0338l 

but a ddcamMrc is 3*2*81 

a hectometre is 328*1 

CUBIC INCRSS. 

In the same way, a Litre being 61*028 

a decilitre is 6*1038 

but a decalitre is 610*28 

OSAINS (TROY.) 

Again, a Oratnme 15*433 

a decigramme is 1*5433 

but a ddcagi*amme is « 154*32 

This system is simple and conyenient, in spite of 
the fine names with which it is encumbered ; but 
only one or two need be used iu common reckon- 
ing. 

For example, it is customary to express all mea- 
sures of Length in Mitres and parts, thus, 

1 mile = 1 609*3 15 metres, i.e., 1C09 metres 

315 millimUres. 

1 furlong sa 301*164 mMres, or 301 metres 

164 millimetres. 

1 yard s *914 mbtres, or 914 milli- 

metres. 

1 foot s= *304 metres, or 304 milli- 

metres. 

Measures of Capacity, in Litres And parts, thus, 

1 gallon (imperial) s= 4*54 litre or 4 lit. 54 centil. 
1 quart = 1*18 litres, or 1 lit. 13 centil. 

Measures of Weight, in Gramme* and parts, thus, 

1 lb. (aToirdnpois)=s 453*59 grammes, or 453 gr. 

59 centigrammes. 

(A.)— Frendi Measures Compared with 
Engllsli. 

1 French foot (old) = 1*006 English foot. 
1 ditto (new) = i of the metre = 1*094 feet. 
1 aune or ell =: 4 feet nearly. 
10 French feet = 10} English feet. 
100 French feet = 106^ English feet. 

Or about 6 per cent. (1 in 16) longer. 
The foot and ell are little used. 



1 Mitre = 1094 English yard = 3*381 English 

feet = 39*37 inches s about ly^g yards. 
N.B.— To turn mitr4S into yardt (nearly), add f'j. 
100 metres = Bi8 English feet. 

1000 metres (or 1 KilomHre) =; 3,381 English feet; 
or 5 furlongs nearly (4 furlongs, 218 yards, 3. feet, 
exactly). > 

N.B. — Distances are now measured in Kiiomitrts. 
A Kilometre is 3,281 feet, and a mile 5,380 feet, 
therefore : — 

1 kilometre = |th mile, very nearly, 
or 6 miles =10 kilometres, nearly, 
or 10 miles = 16 kilometres, very nearl}'. 
10,000 metres (1 myriametre) = 6*314 English 

miles, or = 6i miles, nearly. 
1 lioue commune or g^ographlque == 4,444| 
kilometres. 

1 lieue de po<:te (or about 4 kilometres) 
= 2| English miles. 
10 „ =24f ,i 

I toise = 6*396 feet = 6 feet 4i Inches. 

10 „ =64 feet, or lOJ fathoms, nearly. 

1 KHogramme = 3 lbs. 8 oz., nearly. 
10 „ =33 lbs. 1 oz. 

51 „ = 113 lbs. or 1 cwt., nearly, 

corresponding to a quintal, of 20 to the ton. 
N.Bi— The quintal metrique is 330ilbs. 
1 litre = about 0*885 quart. 
N.B.— 30 kilogrammes (usually abbreviated 
** kilos.'') or 66 lbs., is the amount of luggage 
allowed to go free, on the French lines. 
1 hectare = 3*471 acres, or 3^ acres, nearly. 
10 „ = 24f acres. 

(B.)— English Measures Compared with 

French. 

1 foot = 30*47 centimetres. 

1 yard = 91*44 centimetres, or /^ metre, nearly. 

N.B. — ^Toturnyar<i8 into m«/re« (nearly), take off^. 

1 ounce = 33*35 grammes. 

1 pound (troy) = 373*34 grammes. 

1 ounce do. = 31*10 grammes. 

1 fathom = 1*839 metres. 

1 mile = 1609*315 metres = 1*609315 kilo- 

metreil. Six miles = 10 kilometres, or 10 hiilea 
== 16 kilometres; neatly^ as above montioiled. 

100 miles a= 32 marine leagues = 10-3 lien— 



xxxvi. 



INTRODUCmOK. 



1 square yards 0-836 square mMro. 

1 acre = 4000-0 square metres, nearly.. 

1 gallon s= 4'Md litre*. 

1 bushel sc H.UB litres. 

1 quarter a= aWTS litres, ort'OOTdhectditreg. 

(C.)-Tat)le of Utoes, Yard^, and Feet. 

1 mfetre =s 1-09 yards = 8-281 feet. 



2 




=s 


2-18 


tt 


= 




6-562 




8 




^ 


8-27 


tt 


= 




9-818 




4 




= 


4-36 


tt 


^ 


13123 




6 




= 


«-4a 


tt 


^ 


16-404 




10 




= 


10-93 


tt. 


ss 


32-809 




100 


• 


= 109-36 


It 


^ 


828-09 




1000 




= 1093-6S 


tt 


^ 


8280-89 




; tfft.>-T»lilt Of 10168 im4 SUotti^tre^. 


lmUe = 


1-609 kil. 


1 kil. 


( ' 


-621milea. 


^ ♦. 


^ 


8-210 


»♦ 


? 


»t 


^ 


1242 


tl 


« ,t 


^ 


4-8-28 


t» 


8 


It 


= 


1-869 


It 


1 4 n 


? 


6r437 


M 


4 


tl 


= 


2-484 


It 


6 „ 


= 


8-047 


Y« 


$ 


tt 


= 


3-105 


It 


6 „ 


= 


9*66 


n 


(1 


tt 


=s 


8-78 


tt 


7 H 


»= 


11-27 


1! 


7 


t» 


=s 


4-84 


It 


e n 


«s 


12-87 


»» 


8 


tt 


= 


4-96 


., tt 


9 « 


=9 


14-48 


« 


t 


tl 


s;: 


5-59 


It 


10 „ 


=s 


1609 


It 


10 


tt 


=: 


6-21 


11 


,W .► 


=3 


17-70 


It 


11 


tf 


=: 


6-88 


tl 


n „ 


«; 


Id-st 


tl 


1« 


II 


3S 


7-46 


It 


13 M 


s= 


20-92 


It 


18 


tt 


^ 


8-07 


II 


14 „ 


= 


22-53 


It 


14 


It 


=« 


8-69 


II 


\k » 


«i 


24-lt( 


tt 


16 


11 


sm 


9-81 


tl 


^ »♦ 


^ 


26-75 


It 


16 


tl 


»=> 


n^ 


It 


" „ 


=» 


^■^ 


tt 


17 


It 


m 


1055 


It 


^ n 


^ 


%9rp 


It 


18 


»l 


ss: 


Ul? 


it 


19 „ 


= 


80-67 


tt 


»i» 


tt 


s= 


11-80 


tf 


?» H 


^ 


82-19 


!♦ 


20 


Tf 


S< 


12-4» 


It 


30 „ 


= 


48-28 


tt 


^0 


tl 


= 


18-68 


It 


40 „ 


-= 


64-87 


tt 


40 


11 


Sf 


24-84 


t) 


«« « 


==5 


80-47 


tl 


60 


tl 


Z 


31-05 


ii 


$0 .» 


s^ 


96-66 


tt 


60 


tt 


^ 


87-26 


ti 


70 „ 


= 


112-65 


t» 


70 


It 


= 


43-47 


It 


80 „ 


= 


128-74 


tt 


80 


tt 


=? 


49-68 


tl 


90 „ 


= 


144-84 


»» 


90 


tt 


rs 


65-89. 


t» 


100 „ 


= 


160-93 


n 


lOQ 


tt 


s 


62-06 


1* 


m n 


?= 


821-86 


t» 


200 


»t 


= 


12416 


n 


^« .» 


= 


482-79 


«» 


800 


tl 


= 


18618 


11. 


Ann ,^ 


S= 


648-72 


»» 


400 


t» 


=; 


248-82 


«i 




P7 


$04-66 


tl 


6Q0 





s= 


810-30 


H 




<1609-81 


tl 


1000 


II 


as 


620-60 


n 



In using this table, remember that 3 miles, fat 
instance, being 3-219 kUomMres, 20 miles will b» 
$2-18 kilom^treg, and ao on. 

Rumple— To turn W^ Kllcnii^eB Into 

MUM. 

800 HI. = 186-18 miles. 
60 „ = 87-26 
8 „ = 4-96 



tt 



It 



tl 



808 



tt 



= 228-4 



It 



1 Geographical or sea mile, or knot = 1-15 
English mile ssi 1-85 kilometre. Or lOb sea miles 
*= 116 English miles as 186 kilometres. 

(l,)-^o eommre 11ienilOm«t«ni, temteibor 
that at the 

Boiling point, 212* 
Pi-eezing pqiut, 32* 



therefore 180* 
or «• 

That Is, y Reauii^ur 
and 1* Centigrade 



C«KTIQBAP*, 
P 100* = 

= 100* = 

i* = 



siAvy. 

8Q* 
0* 

80« 



4* 



2|* Fahrenl}^^ 
]|* Fahrenheit. 



The Centigrade tfaermomet^ la generally used 
|n Franpo- ^^ conr^n degxeef of C«iltigri(H : 
Into Fahrenheit, mutttply' by 9, divide by 6, aufl 
to the quotient add 32*, if i^boy^ ffp^zlng point,; 
or subtract 82*, If below it. Thus, 40* Centi- 
grade will be found to correspond with 104* * 
Fahrenheit. 

(F.) -For the BftTomU^V, It wU) wficc to t^i^ 

inember that the two e^itremea, 704 and 779 milli- 
pi^tres Fr., correspond to tl^ two 9^trem«a, 27-7 i 
and 80*7 inches Snglish. 



INTRODCOWOK. XXXVii. 

it  

SKUTCH OF FEANCB. 

> > 

-rsiaoe lieibeeween latitude 42«2(y and 61^6' north, and longitude i* KKeaat, and 4?4»< ^es^' 
The gn-eatest length, north and south, or Dunkirk to Pcrpignan, ig ^00 mHe«; the gre^itcst width, east 
and wes|, (wr St. Di^ to Brest, 470 miles. Area, including Corsica, about 204,003 square miles (thp 
British Islands are 120,660 square miles). The back-bone of the country, or line of "water shed," Is 
along the Jura and Vosges mountains, then to the west by Monts PauciUes, then south by the Plateau 
do Langres, the Cdte d'Or, and the Cevennes, whence it strikes west, to the Pyr^n^s. Its greatest • 
ofif-shoot, the Dauphin^ Alps, rise 12,970 feet at Uont Pdvoux, the highest peak in Franco; Mont 
Genfevreis 11,790 feet; Mont Perdu, in the Pyr^ndes, is 10,994 feet; Mont Core, in Auvergne, about 
6,190 |eet; Keculet, in the Juras, 6,645 feet. On its Italian frontier line are Mont Blanc,' 15,78» 
feet, the highest in Europe; Mont Cenls (now pierced by a Tunnel nearly 8 miles long), 6,8«(> 
feet; and Mont Viso, 1»,840 feet. St. V^an, in deportment of Basses Alpes, Dauphin^, is the highest 
Tillage in France, viz., 6,591 feet above sea level. 

Five principal Rivers water the surface of France:— The Meuse, Seine, Loire, Garonne, jjnd BhOno, 
It is now cut off from the Rhine. The smaller ones are the Escaut, Aa Canche, Authie, SommcL 
Touques, Qme, Vlre, Selune, Ranee, Aulne, Blavet, Vilaine, Lay, Sevje-Niortaise, Charente, Leyreu 
Adour, Tet, Agly, Aude, Orb, Hdrault, and Var. Besides these, and ninety-four streams of the second ' 
class, there are 2,200 miles of canals. The principal Canals are the following r—Du 3fidi, alonp 
the Garonne; Du Centre, joining the Loire and Sadne; de Bourgogne, from the Yonne to the Sadne; 
de Monsieur, from the Sadne to the Hhine; de Briare, uniting the Yonne and Loire with those of LoirQ 
and d'Orldans ; de St. Quentin, from the Oise to the Escaut ; de Bretagne, from Nantes to Brest. la 
1887 a canal was cut from Havre to Tancarvitle, and one from Bordeaux to Cette is ipoken of. 

The Road^ are in three classes ; 1st, — Routes nationales (or " king's highway ") broad and paved, kent 
up by the state ; 2nd, — Routes ddpartementaJes^ kept up by the departments ; and 3rd, — Routes vidnales qr 
ci^ss-roads, which are left to the communes. Some of the best are thirteen to twenty metres bcpiid, 
paved, and lined with trees ; but the cross-roads are dreadfully bad. 

Before 1789, it contained 33 Provincet^ which were the^ sub-divided into 8^ ^ejBKlffJfl^ef^(^ UAing naiUM 
from their local position with respect to some river, mountain, ^o. In 16^, ^^r the Aq$tro»Italten - 
war, it acquired three morq-- Savole und Haute Savoie (in Savoy), and the Alpes Maritioaea. In 1871, 
after the German war, it lost the Departments bordering on the Rhine, yl«.; — ^t^nt and Bas Rhin (or 
Alsace), witk a comer of Vosges, one-third of Meurthc, an4 the best part of Moselle (lu German 
Lpiraine)* With their chief towns and old provinces, they are now as loUows : — 



- DXFAKTMBKT. 


ORIEF TOWir. 


OLD PaOVIRCB. 


DEFARTIIEIIT. 


CHIEF TOWN. 


OLD PSOYDICB. 


Ain 


Bonrg 


Bresse 


Charente 


AngoulSme 


Angonmois 


Alsne 


htkon 


lie de France 


Charente Inf^-\ 
rieure j 


La Rochelle 


fSaintogne and 


AUier 


Moulin^ 


Bourbonnais 


( Aunis 


Alpes Basses 


Digne 


Provence 


Cher 


Bourges 


Berri 


Alpes Hantes 


Gap 


Dauphin^ 


Corrfeze 


Tulle 


Limoufiq 


Alpes Maritimea 


Nice 


• 


Corse 


Ajaccio 


Corsica 


Anl^che 


Priv*» 


Vivarais 


Cote d'Or 


pjjon 


Boargogn« 


Ardennes 


M^zl^res 


CJhampagne 


Cotes du Nord 


St. Brieuc 


Bretagne 
Marche 


Arifege 


Foix 


Comt^ de Folx 


Creuse 


Gu^ret 


Aube 


Troyea 


Champagne 


Dordognti 


P^rigueux 


Ptfrigord 


Aude 


Carcassonne 


LanguedoQ 


Doub^ 


BesanQon 


Fninehe-Cknt^ 


Aveyron 
Bouehes-dn-Blidiie 


Rodez 


Guienne 


Dr6me 


Valence 


Dauphin^ 
Nofmandle 


Marseilles 


Provence 


Eure 


Bvreux 


Calvados 


Caen 


Normandie 


Eure-et-Loir 


Chartres 


Beauee 


Canta 


Aurillac 


Anvergno 


Finist^rre 


Qtiimper 


Bretagne 



xxxTiii. 



tKTBODUCTlQK. 



T>RPABT1IKNT. 


CHIEF TOWN. 


OLD PKOVINCB. 


DKPARTMBKT. 


CHIEF lOWX. 


OLD PBOVlirCB. 


Gard 


Nisraes 


Languedoc 


Oise 


Beauvais 


Ho de i-Yance 


Garonne (Haute) 


Toulouse 


Langucdoc 


Ome 


Alen^on 


Normandie 


Gers 
Gironde 


Aucb 
Bordeaux 


(Armagnac 
( (Gascogne) 
Guienne 


FasHie-Calai3 
Puy-de-D6me 


Arras 
(Clermont^ 
( Ferrandj 


Artois 
Auvergne 


H^rault 


Montpellier 


Languedoc 


Pyr^ndes 


Pau 


Bikm'A Nararre 


Illc<ot-Vilaino 
Indre 


Renncs 
GhAteauroux 


Bretagne 
Berri 


Pyr. (Hautes) 


Tarbes 


jBigorre (Gas- 
( cogne) 


Tndre-et-Loire 


Tours 


Touraine 


Pyr. Orientales 


Perpignan 


Roussillon 


Is^re 
Jura 


Grenoble 
(Lons-le- ) 
( Sanlnieri 


Dauphin^ 
Fraoche-Comt^ 


Rhone 
Saone (Haute) 


Lyons 
Vesoul 


jLyonnais and 
( Beaujolais 
Franche-Comt€ 


Lftndes 


/Mont-de- > 
{ Marsan j 


Gascog^e 


Saone-et-Loire 
Sarthe 


Macon 
Le Mans 


Bourgogne 
Maine 


LoIr-et-Cher 


Blois 


Orldannais 


Savoie 


Cbambdry > 
Annecy > 


Savoy 


Loire 


Montbrison 


Forez 


Savoie (Haute) 


Loire (Haate) 


Le Puy 


Velay 


Seine 


Paris 


He de France 


Loire (Inf ^ricure) 


Nantes 


Bretagne 


Seine-et-Mame 


Mclun 


He de France 


Loiret 


Orleans 


OrManais 


Seine-et-Oise 


Versailles 


He de France 


Lot 


Cahors 


Guienne 


Seine Inf^rieure 


Rouen 


Normandie 


Lot-et-Garonne 


Agcn 


Guienne 


Sfevres (Deux) 


Niort 


Poitou 


Lozere 


Mende 


G^vaudan 


Somme 


Amiens 


Picardie 


Maine-et-Loire 


Angers 


Anjou 


t Tarn 


Albi 


Languedoc 


Manche 


St. Lo 


Normandie 


Tam-et-Garonne 


Montauban 


Guienne 


Marne 


Ch&lons 


Champagne 


Var 


Draguignan 


Provence 


Mame (Haute) 


Chauniont 


Champagne 


Vaucluse 


Avignon 


Venais.in 


Mayenne 
Henrthe (part) 


Laval 
Nancy 


Maine 
Lorraine 


Vendue i 


Roche-Bur- ) 
Yon j 


Poitou 


Meuse 


Bar-le-Duc 


Lorraine 


Vienne 


Poitiers 


Poitou 


Morbiban 


Vannes 


Bretagne 


Vienne (Haute) 


Limoges 


Limousin 


Moselle (part) 




Lorraine 


Voj»ges 


Epinal 


Lorraine 


Kifevre 


Nevers 


Nivemais 


Yonne 


Auxerre 


Bourgogne 


Nord 


Lille 


Flandre 









Each Department is placed under a Pr^et, appointed by the state, and is divided into three to six . 
arrondissements or Sous-Prefectures (362 in all); these are parted into cantons (2,881 in all) 
under juges de paix, and these again into Communes ($6,114 in all), each having a maire, a parish 
priest or cur^, and his subordinate or vicaire. There are about 40,000 priests in the communes. 
There were 665 monasteries for monks, and 3,400 nunneries. Nearly all these have been secularised. ^ 
Each arrondlssement has a tribunal de premiire instance (or quarter sessions courts) ; and the depart* 
ments are combined for the purpose of forming circuit courts, archbishoprics, and military conunands. 
Each department constitntes a diocese. 

About 62,000 primary Schools are established in the communes ; superior schools or colleges in the 
towns ; normal schools and university faculties, in the chief cities. Chambers of commerce exist at the 
ports and manufacturing towns; public libraries in most large places. There are about 170 fortified' 
places of war, in four classes. Some of the best Cathedrals are— Chartrcs, Bourges, Reims, Troyes, 
Amiens, Abbeville, Beauvais, Rouen, Bayeux, Coutances. The Romanesque (Fr«ncA— Romanc) stylo 
of the earlier churches corresponds to the round-arched Norman in England ; Flamboyant, to the florid 
Gothic (with wavy, fiame-like tracery) ; and Renaissance, to the Tudor and later styles. 

The Soil of France is very fruitful, and best cultivated in the north and north-west; from thence to the 
south the system gets worse. Fields are unenclosed ; farmers live near the villages, away from their 
farms. Most of them are mortgaged, with a tendency, under the law of equal shares, to grow smaller 
and smaller. The systems are antiquated, and the land poorly cleared from weeds. Women reap, and 
the produce is thrashed in the open air. Manures are used, but no more cattle are kept than are 
actually wanted. The best pa^ttro is in Normandy and the west, where good breeds of cattle and 
sheep arc seen. 



IMTRODUCTIOH. X>l'X1X. 

About three acres in seven are arable, and half as mach waste. There are 9 million landholders. Of 
183 millions of acres there are about 20 millions of forest, 25 of pasture and meadow, and 5 of rineyards. 

Wheat, rye, oats, potatoes, are the chief crops, the return being one-third less than in England ; beet« 
root is grown for sugar, the annual production varying between 500,000 and 700,000 tons. Vegetables 
are raised in profusion; maize for food ; flax, hemp, tobacco, and a few hops, with rape and cole seed. 
Tobacco and salt are government monopolies. Cider, perry, and a little poor wine are made in the 
north, down to a line running east-north-east and west-south west through Paris. Vineyards are 
common, south of this; and from a second line, through Rochelle and Dijon, the maize or Indian com 
begins. From a third line, east and we t through Lyons, the olive and mulberry flourish; and the 
orange, lemon, cactus, and other semi-tropical plants grow on parts of the Mediterranean coast. 

The Vine, which thrives to a greater or less degree in seventy-six departments, yields annually C60 
million gallons of wine, of which one-sixth is used for brandy (eaux-de-vie) from the Charente, &c., and 
one-third is exported. Champagne, Burgundy, Bordeaux (claret), Roussillon, Dauphind, Lyonnais, 
&c., are the best sorts. Stony soils are the most suitable for its growth. Beroy, near Paris, is the 
central market for wine ; and Bdziers and Cognac are markets for brandy. Ten Departments in north 
France do not produce wine, viz., Nord, Pas-de-Calais, Somme, Seine-Infdrieure, Calvados, Ome, 
Manche, C6tes-du-Nord, Finist^re, and the Territory of Bolfort. The sixteen Departments where 
most wine is grown are Hdranlt, Charente-Infdrieure, Indre-et-Loire, SaOne-et-Loire, Pyrdn<$e8- 
Orientalcs, Loirc-Infdrieure, Cote-d'Or, Dordogne, Lot-et-Garonne, and Yonne. In 1876 the yield wai 
1,240 million gallons; of which these sixteen departments raised two-thirds; bat it has since greatly 
fluctuated from vine disease. 

The Foreit*^ though extensive, are not too great for the vast consumption of charcoal for fuel. Lor- 
raine, Bui^undy, He de France, Orldannais, Champagne, Berri, Vivarais, Dauphintf, are the provinces 
most abundant in wood. About one-fifth belongs to the state. Elm is the most common timber. 
Other timbers are the oak, beech, lime, maple, and various ornamental woods ; { ine (in the Landes, 
Vosges, Ac), cork and box (Pyrtfndes); the chestnut, for food; walnut, for oil ; mulberry, for the silk- 
worm (in the Drome, Ard^che, Ac.) ; poplar, everywhere for fuel. 

Coal is found, or traced, in thirty-three departments, and worked round Valenciennes, St. ^tienne, 
Angers, Ac, the annual yield being about 19} miiltons of tons. New mines have lately been opened 
round Albi, Decazeville, Alals, Ac, for which railway communication is now provided. Iron is 
plentiful, and forged at 4,400 furnaces. Copper is worked near Lyons. Brick and porcelain clay, 
chalk, gypsum, limestone (in most of the mountains), marble, granite (in Brittany, Ac), manganese, 
antimony, lead, rock salt, and slate, are all abundant. Linen, lace, cotton (at Rouen, Ac), woollens, 
carpets, Ac, are made in the north and west ; silk in the south, round Lyons, Ac Beavers and flamin- 
goes at one time bred in the Rhdne; the bear, wolf, wild boar, isard (a kind of chamois), otter, ortolan, 
and becafico, are still found in the south of France, where the mosquito hite*. Sardines and pilchards 
are caught on the shores of Brittany ; tunny and anchovy, in the Mediterranean. 

Of eight hundred Mineral Springs as counted, there are 50 or 60 principal Spas, In charge of medical 
Inspectors, at Aix, Aix-lcs-Bains, Bagnh-es-de-Bigorre^ Bagnires-de-Luehon, Bagnoles, Bareges, Bourbonne' 
leS'Bains, Bourbon-Lancy, Cauterets, Chandes-Aigues, Bourboule-les-Ba^ns, Royat, Mont Dore, Con- 
trexdville, Vittel, Dax, Eaux-Bonnes, Eaux-Chaudes, Enghien, Luxeuil, Luz, Mont-Dore^es-Bains^ 
Ndris-Ies-Bains, Pa8«iy, Pan, Plombiires, Pierrtfonds, Rennes-les-Batns, Royat, St. Amand, St. Laurent* 
leS'Bains, Satins, St. Sauveur, Ussat^ Vezelay, Vic-sur-C^re, Vichy, Ac 

Among Sea-Side Bathing-Places and Resorts, are Arcachon, Avrancbes, Biarritz, Boulogne, Calais, 
Cannes, Dieppe, Dinan, Dunkerque, Etretat, Eu, Honfleur, Fecamp, Granville, Havre, Hy^res, Menton 
or Mentone, Nice, St. Male, St. Raphael, St» Tropez, St« Valery, Trouville, Tr <p e rt* 



Xl. IKTBODUCTION. 

• . - •■ • 

The most striking parts of France for Scenery, are Normandy, the Seine, the Lower Loire, Biittany, 
' the Upper Garonne and the Pyrenees, Anvergne and its volcanoes, in the Upper Loire, the Ceren^es 
UoUntxdns, the fih6ne below Lyons, the Dauphin^ Alps, and the Yosges Mountains. 

Sstory.— A few notioes of its past history may be added. In Ctesar's time it was styled Gallia or 
Gftnt ; including the Belgs, to the north and north-east; the Celts, in the west, middle, and south ; the 
Aquitanl, in the south-west ; with some Greek colonies round Marseilles. Fine remains of Roman civilisa- 
tion still exist at Nimes, Orange, <fcc., in the south, and even as far north as Lillebonne. It was after- 
wards divided into four, and then seventeen, provinces, by the emperOTS. Later still, it was occupied by 
roving nations from central Europe, as the Visigoths and Ostrogoths in the south; the Burgundiana, on 
the Rhine; and the Franks (4th century) on the Lower Rhine, who were descended from MeroreiLS* 
and, under Clovis (481-611) the Merovingian^ gave this country the name of France. 

Upon the death of Clovis his four sons shared his power and dominions, which were again united 
under the survivor, Clotalre. After the rfeign several kings, and after many divisions, during which 

• parts oi it took the names of Austrasia (east and north-east). Including the " kingdoms " of Metz and 
•' Oridans; JTeustria (north-West), Including the "kingdoms" of Soissons and Paris, In which many 
' Arraorlean Brltalns, Ac, driven out of England, had settled; Aqultaine (south and west); and Bour- 
■' gogne (east and south-east); it was at length reunited and extended under Charlemagne (768-814), 

feoti of Pepin, and head of the CarJovitigian race, which expired With Louis V. His successor was 

 Hugttes Capa, ^87, from whom the descent is tolerably regular. A succession of fourteen kings 
* ' 'bt this house (including Philippe Augustfe and Louis tX., or St. Louis) ended in the direct line 

- with Charles IV., #ho was succeeded, liJft, by Philippe VI. of Valois. Six kings of this branch 

(among whom are Charles V., called le Sage, who, however, lost Crdcy and Poitiers; Charles VII., 

in wbode time th« English lost nearly all they bad gained in France; and the crafty Louis XI.) 

. ended with Charles VIII. Louis XII., Of Valois^Ortikms oomes next, 1498. After him, Franeief I. 

. (151(), of Valois'-AnfOiaAnet and four Priniws of the same stock, including Charlea IX., the author of 

, the Barth<4omew massacre. Henry IV., or Henri Quatre, of Val^iS'Boutbon, ascended the throne, 1589, 

. and was suooeeded by Louis XIII., and other Bourbons, down to the Revolution, atid th^ ocecution of 

Louis XVI. in 1798. 

Sapoltm I. became Emperor, 1804. Louis XVUI. was restored, 1 811 (the dhild of his murdered brother 

. had the nominal title of Louis XVII.), and, except the ''Hundred Day s^'* reigned till 1835. His brotlier, 

, Chatles X., was driven from the throne, 1839, when Louis-Philippe of OtleMu succeeded, and relgted 

, till 1848, vheb the Third Revolution and Second Republic was effected, which terminated with the 

, Coup ifitat of 2nd December, 185SI, and the restoration of the empire, under Napoleon III. (son of 

. Kapoleon Ts seoond brother, Louis). He reigued with success till he declared Waf against Prussia, 

 1870; when the total defeat of his armies by the Qennaas drbve him from the throne aftel> the battle 
, ol Sedan, 3nd September. This evont was followed by the proclamation of the Third Republic on the 
, 4th Sept., by the tntestment and capitulation of Paris, and the nomination of M. Thiers as President 

of the Republic, 18^71. Peace was only concluded with Germany by the sacrifice of Alsace and Lor- 

• raine, with i^ population of 1^ million, and fi,QOO to 6,000 square miles of territory, and the payment 
of 6 milliards of francs, or 200 millions sterling (besides 7 millions for interest, but deducting 11 

. .. millions for the Alsace rails) — a payment which increased the national debt of France from oOO 
milUons« to the enormous sum of 943 millions sterling. The total cost of the wai' has been reckoned at 

! 37 1^ millions. The Emperor, after Sedan, was first sent to Wilhelmshohe, and then retired to 
Chislehurst, where he died in exile, 9th January, 1873, leaving a son who was killed in South Africa. 
The direct survivors of Louis Philippe are his grandsons, the Count de Paris and the Orleans Princes. 

' >llarshftl MacMofaori '^as elected Ptesiderit of ihk ne# Republic, 24th May, 1875 for li^'fen ysitrs, he 

*"' tirsijried, MT9, atid ^a* stiecccdea by li. (St^vy, rcplaced, 1*87, by U. Bad! ()«hrol. 



IKTBODUCTION. 

Population of France in 1876 was 36,905,786; in 1872, 86,108,000; in 1881, 87,679,048; in 1|)91, 
38,348,192. This is exclusive of Algeria. About 20^ millions are a:gfieii1ttirist« ; 2 milliohv ar4 l^u- 
facturers; 8 millions are artisans; ttie employes exceed lialf a mill ion. - 

tn 1891, the Bevenue was estimated at 126| millions sterling; expenditure about the same. Army;. 
on the peace establishment, 561,200 men; on a war footing it may be increased to 8,MO,000 men, 
includfn'g the reserve. Service is obligatory on all agtt« from 20 to 40. Fleet, 97 ships of the liiie, of 
which 68 are ironclads. 




TABtB Of aiJBfTOittCAL BVSKT8 FKOH 1870. 



1870. • 

July •.— Biic de Orammont prcftests against the election of Prince Leopold of Hdhen*ollemto the 

throne oi^ flpain. 
„ IS.^The King of Prussia at Ems refuses the demand of Count Benedetti, the tVench ambassador, 

that he would never accept the Spanish crown for any of his family. 
M iS.^France declares War against Prussia. 
„ fil.-— At Saarlouis, a French vedette fires at a Prussian sentinel, misses, and is killed by the 

Prussian— the first blood shed in the war. 
ti 22.— Kehl Bridge on the Bhine blown up by the Prussians. 
„ 2^^.— The Emperor and Prince imperial arrive at Metz. He proclaims the "God of l)attl^i will 

be with us." 
August 2.— Saarbrtick bombarded and taken by the French in presence of the Emperor and the Prince 

Imperial, who here " received his baptism of fire." 
„ 4.— WeiBsenbnrg stormed by the Crown Prince. General Douay killed, 30 oiBcers and 1,000 

men taken pris(mer8, with 23 cannon and 4 mitrailleuses. 
,, ft,— The Crown Prince defeats HcMabon at WiJrth or FrlJscbwUler— 4,00? prisoners, many 

cannon and baggage taken. 
„ 6.— Prince Frederick Charles defeats General Froasard at Spioharen; Saarhfiick retaken by 

the GMmans. 
„ 7.— Paris proclaimed in a state of siege. Emperor announces that " all may yet go well.** 
„ lO.—Strasbourg invested-oand bombutlefl oo 19th. 

„ 10.— Ollivier Ministry succeeded by that of General Montaubcn, Count of Palikao. 
„ 14.— German victwy at Pange or Conroeltoi, near Mats. 
t, 14. — Nancy occupied by the Germans. 
„ 16.— Battle at Mars-la-Toor, and French drlnen back by Prime Frederick Charias on MefcsTr 2,009 

prisoners, 7 cannon, 3 eagles, taken. 
H 17;— iimp^ror and PHnee Imperial at Ciitto&a Oami^ 
„ 18. — Trochu appointed Governor of Paris. 
„ 18.— Battles at Gravelotte and Dcttieovrt, ttiid French under Bazalife drlten by the King into 

Metz, which was completely invested on 2»rd. 
u 20. — ^Mellaben <rv«eiitttea Ghilons, and marches towards Reims and the nortfi-east frontier. 
,4 ^«{.— Vitry eaptttftate^ — 16 guns. 
,1 29.— De Failly defeated at Montm^dy — 4,000 prisoners. 
„ 30-31.— HcMahon defeated at Carignan, Beaumont, and Bazeilles, Ml f^i Belglaii fMitier.* The 

4Mtflae^B»ii^IIes,«'JM burnt:- •.••'- 



xUi. iNTBODUcnoir. 

Sept. 1.— Marshal Bazainc's sortie at Metz repulsed. 
„ 1-2.— Total defeat of McMahon at Sedan; followed by the surrender of the Emperor and 
80,C00 men; 16,000 escaped into Belgium. The Emperor meets the King at H. Amonr^s 
Ch&tcau de BcUcvue, and is sent to Wilhclmshuhc, near Cassel, arriving on 5th. 
4.— Emperor deposed, and Third Republic proclaimed under a Government of National Defence, 

with Trochu as President. 
6. — Reims occupied. 
6.— Prince Imperial arrives at Hastings, where the Empress in her flight from Paris Arrives on 

9th, brought over in Sir J. M. Burgoyne's yacht, the Gatelle. 
9. — Laon surrenders — S50 French and Germans blown up by an accidental explosion. 
12. — Cr^mieux leaves Paris for Toars, as Delegate of the Government. 
19.— Investment of Paris, and beginning of First SlegO. Crown Prince reaches Yersaillea, 

the German head-quarters, on SOth. 
19. — General Yinoy (who escaped from Sedan) defeated at ViUejuif— 2,600 prisoners, 7 guns. 
22.— Jules Favre tries to negotiate a peace with Bismarck at FOXTl^res, the King*s head- 
quarters, without success. 
27.— Strasbourg surrenders — 17,000 men and 461 officers. 
30. — General Vinoy's sortie from Paris repulsed. 
Oct. 8.— Gambctta,'the Minister of War, escapes from Paris in a balloon, to Amiens, and proceeds to 
Tours, where a delegation of the Ministry is seated. 
9. — Garibaldi arrives at Tours. 
10.— At Orleans, General Von dcr Tann defeats the army of the Loire— 1,000 prisoners and 

9 guns. Orleans occupied on 11th — 2,000 prisoners. 
12.— Epinal taken. 

16. — Soissons capitulates — 4,630 men, 90 officers, and 128 guns. 
18. — Chftteaudun taken ; and Chartres and St. Quentin, on 21st. 
24.— Schlettstadt capitulates— 2,400 prisoners and 120 guns. 

27.— Metz capitulates— Three marshals— Bazaine, Canrobert, Lebauf— 66 generals, 6,000 
officers, and 178,000 men, the remnant of the French army, taken prisoners. It was 
entered on 31st. 
80— The Empress visits Wilhclmshdhe incog. 

31.— Demonstration of the Commune against General Trochu and the Government at the H6tel 
de Vilie. 

Nov. 1-6.— Thiers endeavours unsuccessfully to negotiate an armistice. 

8.-1- Verdun capitulates — 168 officers, 4,000 men, and 136 guns. 

9.— At COTllmiers, near Orleans, General d'Aurelles repulses Von der Tann, and reoocnpiea 

Orleans— the only French victory gained during the war. 

10. — ^Nen-Breisach capitulates — 100 officers, 6,000 men, 100 guns. 

17.— Capture of Dreux, by Duke of Mecklenburg. 

19.— Germans surprised by Ricciotti Garibaldi at Chfttlllon, near DlJon, and flag taken— tho only 

one lost by the Germans. 

24. — Thionville capitulates — 4,000 prisoners, 200 guns. 

27. — La Ffere capitulates— 2,0(0 prisoners, 70 gruns. 

27.— ManteufTel defeats the Army of the North, near Amiens, which is occupied on 28th. 

28.— At Beaune-le-Rolande, Priuce Frederick Charles defeats the Army of the Loire — ^2,600 

killed and prisoners. 

28. — Amiens occupied. 

29-30.— Repulse of sorties from Paris, under Dncrot, at Issy, Le Hay, Jte. Fron«b establish than- 

selves at Champigny. 



»» 

I* 



II 

♦» 
»• 



l» 

II 

II 
II 
If 
II 

»' 



II 
II 



II 
II 

II 
II 
11 

II 

II 
II 

II 



»• 



vxTMJCnmoitcnKi tiM> 



ZXm. S.~«Bri# And yillien i!>n tUft Mjirne retaken Jbjr the Germiinf. 

,, 3.~Prince Frederick Charles defeats General d^ Awellea mmI tbe Ansy of ttuB lieire at Orleans— 
10,000 prisoners, 77 guns. 
. ,;,/ 4.-— Rouen oocupied- 

„ 6-10. — Army of tiie Loire defeated at Beaugency. 

„ 9.— Dieppe occupied. 

„ 12.— Plialsbnrg capitulates— 1,890 oAoers and men, 83 gvni. 

„ 14. — Montmtfdy capitulates, 
;• „-. le.'^yenddme occupied. 

„ 18.— Storming of Nulta. 
•'^ „ . n.—tonn surrenders, but is not oeenpied. The French Delegation retire* to BerAeaot. 

„ 23 — Mnnteuffel defeats the Army of the North at Amiene— 1,000 prisoners. 

,, 36.— At Duclair, in the Seine, 6 English colliers eelsed by the Germans, for yt%\tlb «4i upotogy jrat 
made. 

,, 29.— Fort Avron, near Paris, earrenden. 

1871. 
Jan. 2. — M^ziferes capitulates — 2,000 officers and men, 106 gims. 
„ 3.— Von Goben defeats Faidherbc's Ainny of the North, at Bnpaume. 

„ 4.— Von Bentheiin defeats General Roye at Montlneaux— 600 prisoners, 4 guns. 

•-" „• C.-^Rocroy capitulates— 800 prisoners, 72 guns. 
„ 7. — General Roye defeated at Jumi^ges, near Rouen. 

„ 8-9.— Von Werder defeats Bourbakl at Vallerois, and Villersexel, near Vesoul— 1,800 prisoners. 
„ 10. — Peronne capitulates— 3,000 prisoners. 
* ,, fl-lSv<— General Cbtakzy and the Army of the Loire retreatingtowarde Le Mane ; vkere he is totally 
Toated by the Duke of l^eokienburg on 12th. About 33,000 prisoners talceu, with several 
g^uns, mitrailleuses, i^ores, locomotives, and 400 railway wagons. 

. „ 15* Ml*~Bourbaki twice defeated in his attacks on Vmi Werder, to relieve Belfort. 

„ 18.— At VWlttfildS, the King of Prassia is proclaimed German Emperor. 

„ 19.T^Thfrl«8t great sortie from Paris repulsed, with a loss of 6,000 French, 

„ 19.— Von GSben defeats the Army of the North at St. Quentui— 9,000 prisoners. 

„ 24 ^Jcfles Favre, at Versailles, to negotiate the surrender of Paris. 

„ 25.— Longwy capitulates— 4,000 prisoners, 200 guns. 

„ 28.— Capitulation of Paxls— armistice for 8 weeks. AU the Parig Forts occupied on .29th. 

Fob. 1.— Bourbakl' s army of 80,000 escapes into Switzerland. 

' „ 14. — Notional Assembly meets at Bordeaux. 

„ 15.— Paris pays a War contribution of 8 millions sterling. 

„ 16.— Belfort capitulates, after a gallant defence under Col. Denfert. 

„ 17.— M. Tillers elected Chief of the Executive Power, under the Assembly. 

n 26. — Peace signed. France agrees to cede Alsace and German Lorraine, and pay an Indemnity of 
200 millions sterling. 

March 1. — ^A force of 30,000 Germans enter Paris under the Arc de Triomphe. Treaty of Peace voted 

at Bordeaux. 
„ 3. — Germans evacuate Paris. 

„ 6.— GonuauxilstB hoist the red flag at Paris. 

„ 7. — Germans give up the Forts on left bank of Seine and move the head-quarters from Versailles. 

„ 18.— Rising of the Commune at Paris; who seize the artillery at Montmartre and shoot Generals 

Lecomte and Thomas. 

♦D 



r 






xliV: JNTAODUCnOK; 

March 19.— Fr«ndi Oovenimoitt leaves Paris for Versailles. National AsMoibly meets fthertt on Mtk. 
Baperor Napoleon arrives at Ghislehurst. 

April 2.-8wond Siege of Paris begins. 

6.— Fighting between the Communists and the army under McMahon, at Gonrbevoie and Neoilly. 
8.— Investment of Paris begins by the army. 
May 10. — Treaty of Peace with Germany signed at Frankfort. 
Xg, — Communists throw down the Yenddme Column. 
21. — Army enters Paf is by the West side. 
^^ 28.— Montmartre recaptured. The Communists begin to bnm the Tuiioriea, Lonvre, Hdtel d« 
YUle, Palais de Justice. 
94.— Gommmilsts shoot the Archbishop of Paris, Pres. BonJean,and other ho8tage8,at La Boquetta. 
26.— Belleville captuxed; on the 27th, Chaumont and M^uilmontant. 
23.— Gommnnist Insurrection suppressed. 
80.— Victor Hugo expelled from Brussels. 
Juno 8.— Bourbon and Orleans families restored to their Ftenoh rights. 

27. — Subscriptions for the Indemnity loan at Paris. 
July 81.— IL Thiers elected President of the French Republic. 
Sept. 21.— Rochefort condemned to imprisonment for life. 
Oct. 8.— Election of Councils-General in France. 

22.— Convention with Germany signed at Frankfort ; providing for the evacuation of several 
departments. 

1878. 
Jan. 9.— Death of Napoleon III. at Ghislehurst. 

March 16.— Treaty with Germany, providing for the final pajrment of the indemnity of 200 millions 
sterling, and the evacuation of the remaining Departments, by 5th September, 1873. 

Miy 24.— Marshal McMahon elected President for seven years. 

Dec. 10.— Marshal Uazaiue found guilty by Court-martial ; degraded, and sentenced to imprlsenment 
for 20 years in He Ste. Marguerite, from which ho escaped, 9th Aognst, 1874. 
1575. —.The Republic definitely constituted. A new Senate and Chamber elected, 1876. 

1879. 
Jan. 8 ).— M. Jules Qr^vy elected President on the resignation of Marshal MclCahon. 

. 18Sfi. 
Dec. . 23.— M. Gx^vy re-elected. Resigned, December, 1887. 

1887. 
Dec. 8 — M. Marie Fran90iS Sadi Camot elected President. Assassinated at Lyons by an 
Italian Anarchist named Santo, June 24th, 1894. 

1804. 
Juno 27. -M. Gasimir P^rier elected President. Resigned, January 16tb, 1895. 

1895. 
Jan. 17.— M. Jules Faure elected President. 



IST&oDVCTioirr 




III. 

GUIDE TO PARIS. 

Paris, the capital of France, and perhaps the finest city In Europe, is on the Seine, 1414 miles from 
Harrc, 185 from Calais, and about 288 from London, from which it may be reached in eight or nine 
hours. It lies in an oval, 20 miles round, on both sides of the river, that part on the north side being 
the largest; whilst the oldest part is on the lies de la Cit^ and St. Louis in the river, or in the 
neighbourhood of {hesc islands. Including the Banlieu or environs, such as Neuilly, Belleville, Batig- 
noUes, Montmartre, and other well-known spots, uuiv brought inside the new Barri^res, it contains 
2,447,957 souls, 50,000 houses, 1,350 streets, 183 covered avenues, 80 boulevards, 20 parishes or arrondis- 
sements, 40 churches, 27 theatres, 50 casernes or barracks, and 90 public establishments. Both baiiks 
of the Seine (a mere canal in comparison with the Thames) are lined with 88 broad quays, and larg* 
buildings, and joined by 30 bridges. The houses are so numbered, that you can tell how near you are 
to the river (which runs nearly east and west), and whether you are going from or towards it; the streets 
parallel to the river being painted in black letters, with the numbers doum the stream (or west), and the 
streets perpendicular to it in white letters, with the numbers /f-om the stream; the odd numbers are on 
one side of the street, and the even on the other. 

The principal objects are the Champs Elysdes, Louvre, Palais Royal (burnt by the Commune, 1871) 
Trocad^ro, Madeleine, HOtel de Ville (burnt, 1871), Arc de Triomphe, Fortes St. Denis and St. Martin, 
July and Venddme Columns, Bois de Boulogne, and Pfere la Chaise, on the north side; the Eiffel Tower, 
Hotel des Invalides, Luxembourg, Pantheon, and Jardin des Plantes, on the south side; Pont 
Neuf and Notre Dame, in the centre. Among the most lively streets and thoroughfares are Rues de 
Rivoli, St. Honord, Avenue de TOp^ra, Neuve-des-Petlts-Champs, the Boulevards (which thread the 
outskirts or Faubourgs), and the Quays. The unrivalled Passages, or Arcades, are also very gay; 
viz., the Passages des Panoramas, de TOp^ra, du Saumon, Jouffroy, Vivienne, Colbert, Choiseul, Vero. 
Dodat, Delorme, Ac. Here all the knick-knacks or articles de Paris, are sold. A circle of fortified walls, 
26 miles round, commanding every point near the city, was first planned by M. Thiers, and complected 
In 1848, at a total cost of 6^ millions sterling. A good French pun, "Le mur murant Paris rend Paris 
murmurant," originated when the old walls, which occupied the site of the boulevards, were erected. 
In Rue Tiquetonne is the restored Tour of Jean Sans Peur, or Tour des Dues de Bourgogue, the only 
remnant of the mediseval wall ; now annexed to the City Schools. 

Porters, called commissionnaires, ply at every station or coach-oflice, who will conduct the traveller 
to any of the hotels for i franc, or I franc with luggage. 

BritbOi EmlMSSy and Oonsulato.— S9, Rue de Faubourg St. Honord. Hours, 10 to 8. 

Hotelfl.— There are a great many Hotels in Paris, some magnificent in appearance, but dear and 
uncomfortable; others cheap but questionable. The following are carefully selected as deserving our 
rccommenuation :— 



Orand Hotel Mlrabeau, 8, Rue de la Paix. 
Grand Hotel, 12, Boulevard des Cayuciues. 
Grand ffotel du Loutre, 170 and 172. Rue de RlvoU. 
ITuCeX Brighton, faoing the Garden of the Tttileriea. 
ffot4l ds LlOe «e d' Albion, 333. Rue Bt. Honor4. 
Motti OftoiMHi. SU, Rue Si. Honori. 



St. Jamet Hotel, 211, Kue St. Eonor^. 

Grand Hotel Violet, 7 to 12, Paesaffe Violet, 38 and ML 
Faubourg Poinonuiire. ^ 

Grand Hotel de rAth4n4e, 19, Rue Bcribe. 

ffotel Meyerbeer, 2, Rue Montaigne. 

HoM Moifenta, 129. Bouleraid Mageata. 



IVTROOPCnOlf, 



Tett't fanMp HaUt, 9, Cit4 da B«tIxo 

Hottl du Chemin de Fer du Nord, 12, Bonlerard Deiudn, 
Place du Chemin de Fer du Nord. 

H<a^ de GibraUar, 10. Rue St. Hyacinthe. 

ffotel de VOpira, 16, Hue du Holder, near Bonlerard dw 
jtaliens. 

Grand Hotel Ant^Amerieain, 113, Hue Bt Lmu«. 

BoM Binda, 11. Bue de I'Echelle. 

Hotel ChaAam, 17 and 19. Bue Daunou. 

Ormmd McM dm Chemin de Fer de J^fon, 19. B<ml«Tard 
Diderot. 
Grand HoM 4e Preuuse et de AdMe. 1. Bn* d* StMAottQi. 
JMti and i^nni«w P^rev^ i> OiU du Betfro. 
Botei Balmeralt 4. Bo* d« CaBtigUooe. 
Imperial Hotel, i, Bue Christ. Colomb. Champs 'KifUee, 
Grand Hotd dl'Orliana, near Th^Atre Fran^aii. 
Hotel de Dijon, 29. Bue Canmartin. 

Hotel de la Bourn et dee Awbamadmrt, Tf, Bue N«tB»> 
Dame-def-Yictoires. 

MoUl St. Marie, 89. Bue de BItoU. 

Pension de FamiUe, 7, Arenne du Trocndlro. 

PeiM^m and Private Hotei, 60. Arenne d'ltea (Chamiia 

PemioH, K), Bue ChalfKin. near fha Axe de Triempbe. 



H<aa Mewriee, 936, Bue de BirolL 

Hotel Bale Vue, 89. Avenue de I'Op^ra, and 8, Bue d'Antin. 

Hota Windeor, 226, Bue de Biroli. 

Hota Claite, 13. Place de la Bourse. 

Grand Hotel de Normandie, 256, Bue St.Oionor4. « . 

Hotel de Wagram, 203, Bue de BiToli. and Bue du 89. 
Aiillet. 

Bota Bedfoi^, 17. Bue de I'Arcade. near the Madetelna. 

Hata Burgundy, 8. Bue Duphot. near the Madeleine. 
n* 0fwMil Hotd. l ^r nil M u e, faare Bt. Lifeare. 
I MvM de C&ma*^ 87. Bm OamM>n. near PIm* Ymdame. 
.. Hotel Male^terbei, 24(. Boulevard Mateeherbeaf 

Hotel <SV. Petertbourg, 33 and 35, Bq« Caumartin. 

Hotel MitropoJe, 6, Bue de CastlgTione. 
* London and JTefo Fot* Hotel, IS, Place du Harre. 
t Jfttii A )n ia i #we, 9, Bue Oketellatie. 
-r. jVMil.#* Pmince Aiterf, B, Bue St. BymdoSLe, St. Baaott. 
I : «f»w»4 JTtftl J^Mlm iHfdr, N, A«ewi6 Lndru BMJia. 
^ fiffond ^of«l d« Hatte, 63, |l*e Biebeliei^ 

^ ^ofel dtf PoJaii (Tamlly Hotalj. 28, AyeAoa Coor* de la 

^IReine. - 

h . AthBM*** iMtOeti aied iOkm JK«^ 9, B«e 8t Hyadntlie, 
^ Houori. 

i: IBO Vlaitorf l^aMtftff only One 4ay at Parti, th« following general Instmctions maj be of 
serTice. See Bradshate's llltutrated Guide to Paris. '' Take vp yoar abode at one of the Itotels near the 
Boiilevfir4s, or ^he Rue St. Hoaor^. Breakfast at 8 o'clock, walk a^oofi^ the Bouleyar^s, from the 
Bojule^card des Italiens, to the Madeleine, one of the otost beautiful and moderu churches in Paris. 
Here yon mf 7 take a remise (a superior kind of oab, something like an English brougham), for wbidi 
Ifou. will have to pay 2 francs 25 cents, an boi^r. The coachmiin expects about 5 sous the hour. If 
Vou give the driver to understand tb^t your object is to see all you can of Paris, he will take you by 
jf^e most public streets, and point out the print^al public buUdlngs in the line of route, f ou will find 
rcmiscjt.iu nearly, eyery street, under some shed or building, ^nd often, like the cabs, threading the 
'stroetih or .on stands. They are always readyi |ind yoii will find the coachmen sometimes civil and 
'ojbiljfing. They are known by a red figure. 

I ' / ^ Piir9 thf«i p9 SWte Mourn (see ^«low for description of the places faeationed), visit the Paiais deJusHu 
0»A the i9«»(fMe CSMfMilte, whicli is very near it. Then proceed to the Gardens And the Palace of tke 
,LuMmbo¥rf, Yoa will only k«¥e tisoe to view the exterior, and to |.ake a momentary glance at the 
J^ie<ii^G«2i«f'y,AU94Trithtiie jrorks of liviag artists, which it 4»Htain8. Direct your course next to 
the Hdtel des Invalides to see the church and tomb of Napoleon, one of the richest sights in Paris. The 
Cf^amp de H<'^^''} the Eiffel Tower^ and the Trocadej'O Palais are here. From the Invalides drive to the 
**Plaee de Ja Concorde, and here (discharging your remise) walk through the Gardens of the TuOeries^ to 
view the remains of the Palace, the principal front of which faced them. The two wings were festorefl. 
Go out by diiedf the gaies oiii the left, into tke Itue de Kivoli, and croM over to the PtOaieRtysi, which, 
y ^ith Us ^hops^ eal<^s, and cestiranuits, 19 always Interesting. At the southern extremity, the end facing 
1 the LoHvre, is the Palace formerly inhabited by. Prince .Jo-ome Boniuiarte, uncle to the Emperor, and by 
Prince Napoleon and the Princess Clothllde, his wife. Near the Palais Royal you will find a fair 
luncheon, from 1 franc 50 cents, to 2 ftancs. After lunch, a few minutes' walk will take you to the Louri'e 
»nd the Place du Carrousel. In this Place you will do well to pause a moment, to reconnoitre the extcn- 
'slve piles of buildings that surround you on every side^ and the two palaces, the Louvre and the 
remainder oftfie fttilertes, on the rigfct a^d lift of you, as weil as the triunphai Arch which rises 
•--fore the entrarifee Into the chftteaii. After this, you will be able to spare a little time to in^>ect 
of the galleries of ciirio'sities and"painting]i which the Louvre contains. 9he IjWpm isny be 



entered any Aiy of the week e3te«]>t Mcmday . On Sxtndajrs ift is bpelk f e^he ptal^tc #Hbdtft:1raftii^lelid< 
ftnd always closes at fire (in winter, four) in the afternoon. 

" When you leave the Louvre, you would do well to take another reinise by the hour, drive ihrouffh 
place de la Concorde and the Champs Elysees, to the Barri^re de rstoile. Outside this Barri^re is the 
magnificent arch, the Arc de Triomphe^ which it will well repay you to mount. Should you like it you 
can prolong j'our drive to the Bois de Boulogne, remembering to visit the Chapel of St. Ferdinand, which 
Is situated a hundred yards or so in the avenue opposite the Port Maillot. The Bois de Bouhffne, Hi 
which two lakes have been constructed, is a most fashionable resort between the hours of four nnd six. 
The charge for the remise, for coming outside the Barrifere, is three francs per hoar. If you discharge 
the Yoiture in the Bois you will have to pay an indemnity of 1 to J ftrancs. . V 

. *' On your return to the city, you will find good dinners at the fieatanrants, after which axnuaeraeni of 
every description will be open, to drive away the ennui of the next three or four hours. The Uieatrei|» 
»t some of which, however, the language and representations are not fit for ladies, or the circus, or oiip 
of the operas, or aome other diverting spectacle of the kind, are always open ; but should none of these 
gay sights attract you, you will be much amused by walking along the boulevards, taking your ooffof, 
^r an ice. on the outside of one of the caf tfs, and watching the curious stream of hwnaii beings that roilis 
by you. > t 

*' Should your stay be prolonged for Two days* you would do well to take a run dowa «b4 le^ t^ 
eb&teau and gardens of VersaHle*, This is an occupation that will fill up the, whole dny. TheUe 
are many gardens open after sunset, brilliantly lighted up with variegated lamps, whert danpins Mw2 
other gay amusements take place ; such as the Chfttcau des Flcurs, Ac. As, however, these spots are much 
frequented by the Demi Monde, they should be avoided by ladles and children. There afo also in the 
Champs Elysees caf^s ohantants, where you may hear pretty good singing and sip your coffee, or have 
■an ice, at your leisure. At those marked '' Entree Libre ** you will have to pay dear for yortr 
" consommation.*' The Jardins alluded to above are not visited by the ^ite of Paiisian soeietf , 

.but they give to a foreigner a good insight into the habits and amusements of the French people. 

'' Should your stay extend over TlUTOd days, a visit to Pere la Cluiise, the ^vrdin des planlfSi ^^e 
OobeliHS ManuffictQry (should it be on a Wednesday or Saturday), the Panthew and the HQtel ds Clui\p 

.Is recommended. An examination of these pUces will fully occupy youjr day untU five or six o*cUm^» 
when the evening attractions of Paris are again open to your choice. *> 

*' Should 3'our visit extend over Four days, you will find the ruined Chfttcau and Park of St. Cloud. 

' a short distance out of town, and the museums of the porcelain manufactory at S^mres^ very Interesting. 
You may go to St. Cloud by the railway to AnteuO, where an omnibus will be waiting td take yotrfftr 

. two sous, by a pleasant drive through the Bois de Beuiogne, the village, and across the Seine, trthe 
Park gates. From Sevres to St. Cloud is only a short walk through the Park. If you ure |i gpod walker 
you should visit the Terrace o/Meudon,, about a mile and a-half beyond Sfevres, on the hill. This spot 
commands a very fine view of Paris and the river. Cabs may be obtained at St. Cloud to lake you to 
Sevres and Meudon, should you prefer to ride. ^ 

''Should it be your intention to remain Five days, and your stay be over a Sunday, you might 
witness mass at any of the principal churches, and will probably prefer Notre Dame, so M to sue' the 
lie de Paris. The service commences exactly at ten o'clock. 

" Should your visit extend over Six days, the mtel de Cluny^ the Musoe des Beaujs Arts, and the Mutie 
O'Artillerie should be visited; also St. Germains and the Ab^ of St, Denis, which, though en differ^it 
lines of railway, may easily be accomplished in one day. St. Denis should be «eeQ first. I 

» Should you remain SeyeiL days a trip to Fontainebleau will be highly interelting; aa« should y«u 
luive more days than these, you would do wisely to repeat your visits to the Zmmw, ^e Im»mbmpt 
the mM^Itmiides^JU:' 



r 



%* In the^kort duoHpHon of Paris vkich foJlowM^ the sut^U run tUphabHieaJly^ at m9$t wnvmieHt <m the 
whole for reference. Street* wUl he found under the 'proper names^ as **■ RivoK (Rue de) " for " Rue 
.de Rivoli" or Rivoli Street. When the stranger cotnes upon a lai'ge building, church, Jtc, he has only to 
look down this list for the street it is in, and he will find it described there, or else described under its 
own head. Places in the immediate neighbourhood of Paris must be looked for in the General Index to 
the Hand-Book. For further details, see Bradshaw'b Illustrated Guide to Paris. 

9.B..— Those objects most worthy of notice are in thick type. Though special days for visiting are sometimes 
mentioned, yet nearly aU are accessible to strangers upon the production of a passport. See G aligiuinrs 
Messenger, the days and hours of a<^ission being subject to alteration. 

Acadtoie.— See Palais de Vlnstitut. 

Arc de Trlomphe de TEtolle, at the end of Arenue de Ncuilly, and so called because seren or 
«ight roads spread from it like a star, is an enormous triumphal arch, begun 1806, and finished 1936. It 
Is 153 feet high, 137 broad, and 68 thick; the centre arch, 90 feet high, by 45 wide; and is covered with 
groups and bas-reliefs of the events of the Revolution and the Empire, from 1792 to the peace of 1815! 
By this arch, the Grande Arm€e entered Paris after the peace of Tilsit ; Louis Napoleon, on his return 
from the provinces, 1852; and the Germans after the capitulation of Paris, 1871. A fine view from the 
top. Outside of it, on the Neuilly road, is the beautiful Chapei of St. Ferdinand, built 1842-43, on the 
■{x>t where the iDuc d^Orltfans was killed by his horses taking fright. One line marble g^up was 
designed by his sister, Marie of WUrttembcrg, who sculptured the well-known Joan of Arc. Open till 
dusk. Fee, 50 centimes. Shot marks made 1870 are seen. 

Bac (Rue de) contains large drapery Magasins du Petit St. Thomas (No. 120), and St. Francois 
Xavier*s church. Near it is St. Thomas d'Aquin's. In or near this street 18 buildings were burnt by 
the Communists, 1871 ; including the Caserne Bonaparte, the Cour des Comptcs, the Conseil d'Etat, 
the Palace of the Legion of Honour, and the Foreign Office. 

Bains Dellgny, Qnal d*Orsay, is the largest swimming bath in Paris, and quite a sight on days 

of tropical heat in July. Among other features, des hommes serieux, or grave and reverend seniors of 

mature age, are seen deliberately performing their various ablutions on the steps of the baths, which 

• are crowded with human forms. Caution. — Do not leave gold or your watch In the Cabinets unless the 

door be well fastened. Entrance, 75 centimes ; lingo (t*. e., drawers [cale^ons] and towel), 25 centimes. 

. BanQUe de France, Rue Croix des Petits Champs; rebuilt from Mansard's designs 1720, on the 
. aite of the Hotel of the Counts •f Toulouse, given over to the bank 1811. 

BlTdlOth^Qttes.—BiBLiOTBfeQUS DB l'Aksbkal, Rue de Sully, where cannons were cast till the time 
of Louis XIV., is now a library of 450,000 volumes. Open daily, except Sundays and f@te days, 10 to S. 

BiBLlOTHkQUB St. Genevievb, ucar that church, in the old abbey buildings (14th to ICth centuries), 
contains 150,000 volumes and 85,000 MSS., with portraits of sovereigns from Philippe le Hardi to 
Louis XV. Open daily, except Sundays and f@te days. 

BiBLiOTHBQTTE Mazarikb, at the Palais de Tlnstitut. 800,000 volumes. Open dally, 10 to 4. 

Biblioth^qLae Nationale, or National Library, Rue Richelieu, No. 68, was once Cardinal Mazarlii's 

hotel, and Is now a large pile, 540 feet by 130. It contains 3,000,000 printed volumes; 125,000 MS. 

genealogies (81,000 being French) ; 150,000 medals ; gems ; 9,600 volumes of engravings, from the 

fifteenth century ; 99,000 portraits ; 300,000 maps ; many volumes of French history ; 500 volumes of 

plans, views, dec; besides several marbles. In the ground floor are Voltaire's bust, a silver missal, 

<tho first psalter printed with a date (1459), models, Ac. Among the MSS. are those of Galileo, St. 

' •' prayer book, F^nelon's Telemachus, and autograph letters from Henry IV. downwards. Some 

Issals are as old as the 5th and 6th centuries. Cardinal Mazarln's painted gallery is 140 feet 



I6hg. KeadeM bring their own pens as well as pupei*. Collections visible ohly fnes^n- itnd Friday, 
10 to 4. A fountain, by Visconti, stands iu Place Lonvois, near which the DtM^ ds Bcrrl was 
assassinated, 1820. 

MfifttPB.— See Index to this ITand-Sook. 

BftUldA Boulogne, the Hyde Park of Paris, on a fiat spot to the west of the city, between the 
fbrtifieations and the Seine; and so named from a Tillage near it. Wellington camped here 1814. It 
has been partly restored since the siege of 1870-1, when the trees were cut down. It contains two of 
«krM)UBMH.st«a«Bade4l^feet high; a Cercle des Patineurs for the Skating Club; a Jardin d'AccHma' 
tation or Zoological Garden; and a Hippodrome or Race Course of 153 acres. Concerts at the 
Chftlei da»IIe»T a pretty spot. Here new equipages and dresses come out in Passion Week at the FSte 
de Ix>ogclimiptv w called from the old Abbey of Longchamp near the drive. 

BolS d6 TtalCaanos contains 2,190 acres, with an old feudal ch&teau, with a cascade, and a lake 
with islands. See page 78. 

Bouno, or Exchange, near the Rue Virienne, was built by Brongniart and Labarrc, 1808-26, is 213 
feet by 12&, with 66 Corinthian pillars round it, and a metal roof. The large Doric hall is 116 feet by 
76, and has a painted ceiling and a marble paTcment, at the east end of which is the parquet^ a space 
railed off for stock-brokers. It may. bo seen from the gallery, in the afternoon. 

Bri6g9B.—See Pont*. 

Battes d6 Ghaumont, on the north-east side of Paris; a park of 56 acre^, laid out since 1867, over- 
looking BelleTille. It was occupied by the Communists, 1871. 

C&tftOOmlW ar« in the gypsum under the south side of Paris, formerly excavated for building, and 
after 1786, used as a receptacle for bones from the crowded graveyards, but now disused. They 
extend over about 200 acres, and are reckoned to contain 8,000,000 skeletons or skulls, piled in order 
along the galleries. One entrance is in a garden, near Darri^re d'Enfer, but it is not opened without 
a special order. Some made logan stones are seen below, with a collection of remarkable heads, and 
the well-chosen inscription, '' i/fmen/o 9i»ia /n*/vM e« " (Remember, that thou art dust!). The smell 
is close and disagreeable. Dy order, from Prefect of the Seine, 1st and 3rd Saturday of month. 

C&fhadral.— See Notre Dame, 

C6in6t6r7 Of P^re La CliaiSO, Boulevard de Mdnilmontant, a pleasant spot, so called from the 
eonfossor of Liouis XIV., Father Lachaise, the superior of the Jesuits, who had a scat here. It wa3 
turned into a burial ground, 1804; covers 200 acres, and is prettily laid out with groups of trees, 
cypresses, dbc. The most remarlcable monuments in Paris are in this cemetery, which is also the 
largest and most frequented. A guide will point out the best. There a?'c about 55,000 tombs, among 
which are those of Abelard and H^loise, a beautiful Gothic canopy ; C. FcrJer, the minister; Labc- 
doybre, who led the revolt from the Bourbons, in the Hundred Days; Volncy; Abbd Sicar(^; 
Beaumarchais ; Marshals Davoust, Leffebvro, Ney {''■Siste viator, heroemca^cas'"), Juiiot. Massdna, Suchet ; 
Lavalette, with a carving of his escape; General Foy, with sculptures by David B. Constant; 
Moli^re; Lafontaine; Madame de Genlis; Laplace; Aguado, the banker; Talma; Sir S. Smith, who 
died 1826; Prince Demldoff; the Queen of Onde; Mademoiselle Rachel ; Rossini (1868); A. Fould, the 
financier; and Thiers. The Doric Chapel is 56 feet by 28, and commands a fine view over Paris and 
the neighbouring country. Here the Russians bivouacked, 1814; and the troops when investing the 
insurgents of Belleville, 1871. Several tombs were injured. 

Champ de Uars (Field of Mars), a vast space between iScole Militaire, and Font d'Idna, 2,700 
feet by 1,820, planted with trees, and bordered by sloping banks and ditches, once used for reviews, 
races, Ac. The slopes were made in eight days, by the voluntary labour of all ranks of the people, in 
1790, when Louis XVI. swore, at the Autel de la Patrie (erected here 14th July), to maintain the new 
eonstltation. Here the Exhibitions of 1878 and 1889 were held; the Eiffel TOWer and thp 
rowwtflfl**! <^^ soma gardens, remain as memorials of the latter. 




r 



GIUUIISM^ Blyi^ ot '' Elfiiittn FlekU/' ii prora«Mde, irith iow» of trMt,-planied UU^ by Hfttit di 

Medici*, ntid replfnted, 1794. The Allies encamped here in 101 i-U; tti0 GemMii* in 18TI; oadkert 
the f6tes are held. It Includes the first Palais d'Indiistrie ; the Chapel Marbocuf (Prote8t«nt);r Mid.« 
Circus or Cirque (1 to 2 francs). The first-mentioned is a splendid stoue building, built for ft permanent 
Jndiuirial £xhibiiion, opened in 1855; it rests on arches, and is 800 feet long by 400 feet wide. In its 
Deighbourbood are Panoramas, Swimming School, Concert Gardens, and the site of the jArdin Mobille, 
now built upon. A wide planted walk leads down it, past the Bond Point Fountain in the middk, to 
tbe Arc de TEtoilc, on to Ncuiliy and St. Cloud. 

€]lftP«U« fiXPi|ltOlre» Rue d'Anjon St. Honor^, a small plain baildlng, in tbQ lorni of a «roM| 
•rected by Louis XVill. to the memory of Louis XVI. and his queen, whose stataes ii contaias. It i« 
faced by the handsome modern Church of St. Augustin, in the Romanesque style. . 

 aamHk ef Bt, Etienne dU Uont (Place du Panth^u) is chielly in the Benaissan«<F a^fl9 M the 
16tb century, with a tower as old as 1222, and is one of the most striking cborches fai Parls^'codtAlnlnf 
wany details worth notice, and good pictures. Pascal, Racine, Rollin, Ao., were interred bere. 

GbUrdl of it. Bnttaolie^ Rue Coqallli^re, near the Halles Centrales, the largest after Kdtr^ 
Dame, is cross-shaped, 390 feet by 180^ and 110 high, tbe style being a mixture of Oothte and Oreelnn. 
It was built 1532-1687. The north door <ind high altar are good. Colbert, tbe minister, W«f 6llrl«tf 
in it. Tbe choir and clock were injured in the war of 1870-71. 

CHuncii OF St. Fbancojs n'Aasias^ Rue d'Orl^ns. 

Churcll of St. Germain lAuxerroll, near Bne St. Denis, is on the site of ChUp^rle'a cbureli 
•which tbe Normans destroyed, 886. It was the conrt church (being near tlie LonvreX *od highly 
deeoratcd, andhas been rostoi-ed. Its bells gave the first signal for the St. Bartholomew massacre. It It 
eross-shaped, and includes a door (1649), a weiM front of the IStb century, with fire portids in it; and a 
porch built 14il-7, with frescoes by Mottez. 

Omiroli Of 8t. Ctennaln des Pris, Boulevard 9t. Germain, ofie of the oldest In Paris, fs on the 

•Ite of one built by Chfldcbcrt, 543, under the name of the Golden Basilica, and destroyed by the 

Konnans. It was part of a Bettedictine abbey, fortified like a castle, and belonging to the learned 

Congregation of St. Maur. In front was the promenade called the Pr€ anx Clcrcs (Cler**' Field, 

-altswerfng to our C^lerkenwell). The church, as restored, is 200 feet by 96, and 60 high ; and Includes 

:parts of two east towers, as old as 990, an ancient west front (spoilt by a Doric porch) and towe^, 

Kormaii arches in tbe nave, efRgles of a Duke of Douglas (1046), and of Casimir of PoUnd (who died 

.About 1672), and a fine marble font. Some pieces of Notre Dame chapel (13tb century), and tfaeabbdt*8 

-. hriok house, remain. The Abbaye prison occupied tlie site of Square de 1' Abbaye, close by. 

CnUBCR or St. Gebyais (behind the UOteVde Ville), of the 1 6th century (though dated 1420), has a 
tower 180 feet high, and a west Grecian front ; but the remainder is Gothic, especially the beautiful 
Ladtf Chapd^ with its stained glass and paintings. 

CnuacK OP St. Laurent, Rue du Faubourg St. Martin, begun 1429, Is chiefly Gothic, with a Doric 
ppreh (1622), in which you see the saint's gridiron. The north aisle of the choir is the most oiicicut ; 
some good tracery is observed over the north door and tower; and pendants bang in the nave. 

Cuuucii OP St. Leu and St. QiLisa, Bue St. Martin, was mostly rebuilt, 1611; and has a toirer 
dAtcd 1236 (but really much later), with a gable frout. Many genuine relies are shown hero to the 
faithful. 

Chukgh of Ste. Maroueritr, Rue St. Bernard, built 1625-1712, in the shape of a cross, the naye 

being the oldest poit. Besides many good pictures, it contains, they say, the gi'ave of the Dauphin, 

Louis XYXI. The ix>or boy died through the ill-treatment he received from his master, one Simon, a 

'bbler, to whom he was apprenticed by the bloodheimds of the Revolution, after tbe execution of bis 

'rtauate father 



tmUQ'OtfiSftO'lf* 



Jl 



'CituWtt oi Br. irw>Ain), ftue Monlfeiai'd, is Ootblc, of tfctf Ifftt^ Iftitair, #!fli 4 Honntn jwrAi, 
«|U«nt tower, sUlned windows, Ac, bat ipollt by oMderh adinflonf . An oW p«lntfnir on wood, fit dnW 
of the' dm'pcls. Ktcole and Abb< Paris were bntied here. At the luttcr's tomb the Cotitrtlsfonfsff 
besr«n thefr .nnficit, 173). 

CTBtTKCH OP St. Mkrri, Roe St. MArtIn, No. S, fts rebuflt }5i9-Uli, Inelades a beaotlftll fkrrtd Oothie 
w«9t front, niched fijruren, porches, rose windows, stained glass, Ac, and an old wood painting of tfa« 
Wthconturf near the attar. 

Church of Kotre Dame de Lorette, end of Rue Lafittc, begun 182S by Le Has; 224 feet by 106, 
with fl square campanile tower and Corinthian portico. Its interior is highly decorated with flight 
/rescoes of the Virgin, Ac. Thiers' /louse, rebuilt since the Commune, Is fn Place St. George. 

GhnrCll of St. Roch, Rue St. Honord, so celebrated In all the revolutions, was built 16C8-1740; and 
Is cross-shaped, 160 feet long, with a wide flight of steps leading to a Grecian portal, 84 feet by 91 high. 
Paintings aiid bae-reliof s to be seen . P. ComelUe and Abb^ de Y Ep^e were burled in ft. Here Napoleon, 
when on artUIery offieer, planted his guns, and suppressed the laat riling of tbe mob. 

OllurclL Of St. Sulpice, near the Luxembourg, begun 1646, and not finished till 1749, Is cross-shaped, 
462 feet by 185, and 104 high. The fine double portico consists of Doric pillars, 40 feet high, supporting 
apotber range of lonie columns, 38 feot high, by Seryandoni, 1745. The north tower, 320 feet high, is 
made up of four storeys of columns. The holy water baaina (beuitibres) are two large ahells giren to 
J'raucla I. by the Venetians. A good pulpit rest* on two flights of steps. The organ is hlgly carred, 
with seventeen various figures playing music. On the pavement ft Meridian line is traced. There is 
an image of the Virgiji and Child, on a globe, with a light falling on it from an opening, producing a 
very striking effect ; and on the celling above is a fresco, by Lemoine (one of the bast modem Frencl^ 
painter8),,a work of three years* labour. Pictures and frescoes in the twenty-one chapels around. It 
was called the Temple de la Victoire in the Revolution. A flower market, fomitain, and seminary; 
in front. 

Church op Val dk Grace, Rue St. Jacques, now part of the Military Hospital, was built by Aane 
of Austria, on the birth of Louis XIV. Statue of Lan-y, the surgeon, In the court. 

College de France, RrtcSt. Jacques, founded 1529, bunt 1774. Thirty-nine professors. 

College de la Sorbonne, near Rue St. Jacques, on the site of the famous theological fchool or 
wilversity, founded 1253, by Robert de Sorbon. It is a quadrangle, begun 1629, by Richelieu ; Including 
a Grecian church, built 1635-59, by Lemercier, In which there Is a good dome, painted by Philippe de 
Champagne, and Girardou's famous statue of the Cardinal^ supported by religion, Ac. The llbrftry of 
120,000 volumes, open daily, 11 to 6 and 7 to 10. 

Column of July, see Place de la Bastille.— Vxfoleov Cotmnf, see Placi VendOme. 

Conservatoire de Musique, 15, Rue du Faubourg Poissonni^re. 

Conservatoire Natlonale des Arts et Metiers (Museum of Practical Arts and Trades), ^ue 

St. Martin, on the site of St. Martin's abbey (of which a round tower is left at the Fontaine), 
was formed 1798, as a repository of models, patents, machines, Ac, of all classes and countries. Some 
are placed in the old Gothic chapel of the 13th century, and the beautiful eight-sided refectory. 
Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday free ; other days 1 franc. Lectures on Science and Art, gratis. 

Conveyances.— Omnidu«e«, all under one General Company, run through the 84 principal routes, 
at one fare of 30c (3d.) Inside, and 1 5c. outside. They mostly correspond with each other; and by 
paying one full fare you may go from any part of Paris to any other part, upon showing your ticket 
or billet, when you change at certain points ; a hilM de correspondemce^ outside, eosts 80e. In paying 

'your fare, ask for the earreipondaneet if the *ba8 does not go direct. . In nerjf case you must obuln a 
numtfro, and passengers are taken in the order of their number. The onmibnses stop at oertatn 

' itations, where there are offices, where the nnmtfro le obtained. 



Cabt mn by the hour, or \yyih» oottrse, at choioe ; th^mune betng « single ntH OTilHvi^ tan^Of itet 
(within Paris), without patting down or taking up a passenger. The cabman hired by the oourae 
chooees hia own route. Tariff for Cabs (Vnturet de plaee, or Voihires de remue)^ when plying in the 
streets, %nthin the City^ is as follows: — For 2 persons— Ifr. 50c. the course, 2fr. the hovr; fir4|MBMni*» 
Sfr. the course, 2fr. 50c. the hour. The day begins at 6 in summer (31st May to 1st October), and 7 in 
winter, and ends at 12-80 at night. Extra rates for night cabs, or rides beyond the Fortifications, or 
cabs hired from a remise (stables). Boxes and packages outside are 25c. each ; but not more than three 
are to be paid for. No charge for articles inside. The driver is bound to load or unload the luggagre ; 
and to give his number when you take your seat. Going to a theatre or concert you pay in advance,, 
to save time. Gratuities ai'e forbidden ; but it is usual to give 10 to 20c. extra for the course, and 
35 to 50c. by the hour. Voitures de grande remise (a superior class) may be hired from 20 to SOfr. a 
day. All voitures are supplied with a printed tariff. 

TVom Sails (called *' Tramways'* in French) run from the Louvre, ]£toile, ftc^ to Versailles, Fasay, 
Auteuil, Sevres, St. Cloud, Neuilly, St. Denis, Ac, in the suburbs. The rules as to ''correspoodances" 
are the same as for omnibuses. 

CoQciLLiiBR (Rue) contains the Church of St. £astache, opposite the Halles Centrales. 

DxNis (Rue St.) is an important business street, running from the Porte St. Denis, parallel with tte 
Boulevard de S^bastopol, to the Rue de Rivoli. 

D£p6t DR LA GuEERE, Rue St.-Domlnique-St.-Germain, is a large building; and contains the state 
papers of the time of Louis XIII., the letters of Louis XIV. to his grandson, Philip of Spain, Napoleon's 
letters, the survey of France, plans of battles, Ac. The War Minister's head-quarters are fixed here. 
No admission except by special permission. 

l^coLB DE Mbdicink, Ruo dc Tl^cole de Medicine, a handsome range, built 1769, by Gondouin, with an 
Ionic front, 198 feet long. Hero are bas-reliefs, medallions of surgeons, frescoes (in the theatre), busts, 
a library of 35,000 volumes, and the Mus^e Orfila and Mns^e Dupuytreen. 

£coLB DE Natation (Swimming School), on Quai d'Orsay, near the Tuileries. 

itcoLE PoLTTEOHXiQUR, Ruo Montagne de Ste. Genevieve, founded 1795, to supply scientific oflioers 
for the army, navy, engineers, and other branches of the public service. 

Elya^ Palace, opposite the Champs Elys^cs, the seat of the President of the Republic; built 
1718. It belonged to Madame de Pompadour, the Duchosse de Bourbon, &c., and was the residence 
of Murat, Napoleon, Alexander of Russia, Duke of Wellington, Due de Berri (when assassinated, 
1820), &Q. Here the Emperor fSted the Duke of Cambiidgc and Lord Raglan, in 1854. In one room 
is Napoleon's bed, with other memorials. No admission to the public. 

Entrepots et Maganiiifl G^^raux de Paris, 204, Boulevard de la vuiette. 

FoNTAiNEB and Jets d'eaux. See Marche des Innocens, Bibliotheque Nationale^ Church of St. Sulpice, 
Ndtre Dame, Place du Chdtelet, Place de la Concorde, Rue Richelieu, Palais Royal, Porte St. Martin^ fojc 
some of the finest in Paris. 

FOXtifloationSi round the city, planned by M. Thiers in Louis Philippe's reign, were built 1841-C; 
and are 26 miles long, faced by 94 bastions, and ramparted walls 1 1 yards thick. Outside are 17 
. detached Forts, such sls Mont Valerien (600 feet high), Issy., Ac, which suffered in the late war, and 
have been completely restored. Twenty new forts have been built since 1874. The old Castle of Via- 
cennes, with its arsenal, &c., is on the east side, near the large Convalescent Hospital, and in the midst 
of a Park or Bois, which the Communists occupied May, 1871. 

GenevUye, SW., or Pantll^on, not far from the Luxembourg, is the '' St. Paul's " of Paris, and takes 

its name from the patron saint of the city, to whom Glovis built a Church, in which she was buried 512, 

' which liouis XV. began to rebuild 1764, in the Grecian style, from Soufflot's designs. It forms ^ 



IKtaoDtJCtlOir. liii.. , 

...... ^ 

ero9tt« dD2 feet by 255 (the nave being 103 long), with a dome 268 feet hlgrh and B$ diameter, plated by- 
Baron Gros. In the front, which Is 129 feet broad on the whole, is a range of elevwi ateps, leading np to 
a fine portico of six Corinthian pillars, 80 feet high, besides sixteen others behind them. The pediment 
is filled up by David's fine bas-relief of France (a figore fifteen feet high) distributing honours to her 
great men, represented by F^nelon, Maleshcrbcs, Mirabeau, Voltaire, Rousseau, Lafa3'^ette, Camot, 
Monge, Manuel, David (the painter). Napoleon, (fee. ; below them is this memorial inscription in gilt 
letters: — ^^ Aux Orands Jlommet la Patrie Reconnaissante^^ a concise idiom, signifying that a grateful 
country dedicates it to the memory of her great children. Altogether, the portico is so good that the 
architect is said to have "mis h laportetoute son architecture,*'— turned his building out of doors. 
There are 2i>8 pillars about this church, of which 130 are inside. The carved ceiling is eighty feet from 
the marble pavement, under which are the crypts on Doric pillars, containing the remains of Voltaire 
("poete. historien, philosophe,") and Rousseau, Lagrange, Sonfilot, BougainTlUe, Admiral de Winter. 
Marshals Lannes and Bugeaud. It was occupied by the insurgents 1848, and was threatened with 
destruction 1871. It was seculaHsed in 1885, when Victor Hugo was buried in it. See note, pogo Ixiv., 
respecting tickets of admission to the Crypts and the Dome. 

GoBBLiNS. — See Manufacture Nationale des Gobelins. 

Halle au Bl^, or Com Exchange, Rue des Deux iScns, a rast circular pile, on the site of a royal 
seat, built 1768-7, by Le Camus, 126 feet diameter, being the exact shape and size of the Pantheon at 
Rome. It is entirely of stone and iron, with an iron domed roof and skylight, built 1811; an arcade 
round it, and large granaries. Outside the south part is Catherine de Medlcis' Doric pillar (1572) and 
sun-dial, 100 feet high, built by her astrologer. The Haileaux Vins, or Wine Ddpot, is an immense range, 
like a town, at Bcrcy, near the Jardin des Plantes. 

H6tel de Cluny, Boulevard St. Michel, a fine old building, begun 1480, by an abbot of Cluny, and 
finished 1605. After many changes it came to M. de Sommerard, who formed a large mediaeval collec- 
tion, which the government, having bought, turned into a Museum of Antiquities^ such as carvings, 
furniture, stained glass, tapestry, arms, MSB., pictures. The old chapel rests on a single pillar in the 
middle. Across the court is the Palais des Thermes, a solid pile, about 90 feet long, part of the 
old seat of the Roman governors, whence a Roman way struck along Rue St. Jacques, and an aqueduct 
went to Arcueil. Its thick walls are made of stones and bricks with stucco ; and Roman remains are 
kept in it. Open every day except Blonday and fete days, 11 to 5. 

H<ytel Dieil, close to N6tre Dame, the oldest Hospital in Paris, was founded in the 7th centnr}% re- 
built by Philippe Auguste, and enlai^ed by St. Louis, and forms a vast solid pile, with eight hundred 
and fifty beds : but all that is left of the old building is a chapel of the 13th century. There are several 
statues, portraits, Ac, of benefactors and eminent medical men. 

B<ytel des InvalldeB, the French *' Chelsea Hospital,'* opposite the Champs ^lys^es, is known by 
its conspicuous gilt dome, and stands on an esplanade, 1,440 feet by 780 feet, which reaches to the 
Seine, and is ornamented with ti'ees, Marochetti's statue of Napoleon, and cannons, some of them from 
Algiers. The buildings, begun by Louis XIV., include fifteen courts, and cover sixteen acres ; and 
about three thousand soldiers, and one hundred and seventy officers, under a governor (sometimes the 
senior Marshal), lieutenant-governor, Ac, are sheltered here. The river front is 612 feet long, and 
has Ionic pilasters, with dormer windows (foitned of military trophies, cut in stone), and a bas-relief of 
Louis XIV. on horseback. The Cour d*Honnour is 315 feet by 192. Portraits of great soldiers in the 
council chamber. There is a gallery of plans and fortresses. The Musei (TArtillerie, formerly Rue du 
Bac, is now here. Dining-rooms, 150 feet long. One dormitory is called after the famous republican 
soldier, Latour d'Auvergne, who refused promotion on principle, preferring to be called the "premier 
grenadier** of France. The large kitchens are worth seeing. In the old church, 210 feet long, are 
many tablets to governors ; 1,400 flags here, taken from the enemy, were burnt by the Due de Feltre, 
' 1815, to save them from the Allies. One of the chapels contains the mausoleum of Turenne 



liV. iNTEODUClioK. 

ifautb eud U the great dome, 340 feet high^ under which the icdy o/^apotm (bfoimfht from St. fleleni, 
1840) Is placed, with hia sword, hat, crown, and star^ covered by a magnificent tomh. The tombs of 
Bertrand and Durpc aie dose at hand. At the Revolution, twelve mcdaUlojis of kings, here, were 
transformed into Greek and Roman philosophers, two being Voltaire and Rousseau! On the ceiling of 
the cupola, «1 feet diameter, is Delafosse's St. Louis entering Heaven. Open, 12 to 4, Monday, Tuesday, 
Thursday, and Friday. There is a special entrance for the Church, at the back of the Hotel, which ia 
open daily from noon. Fees to pensioners, who act as guides. The ffOtel is open daily. • 

HOt^ (or Palais) de la Legion d'Honneilr, Rue de LiUe, was built 1786, for the Prince de Salmi 
(who was beheaded, 1793), and was sold by lottery to a hair.4resser; in 1808 it came to the government, 
and became the seat of the Grand ChanceUor of the Legion. It wa# burnt by the Conununists, 1871, 
and has undergone restoration. Not open to the public. 

• Hdtel des Moniiaies (Mint), on Qual Contl, built 1771-76, is 3fi0 feet long, with eight oourts, 
ornamented by pillars and busts. Many of the scales used here, aUd at the branch mints, were mad« 
from cannon taken at Austerlitz. It has a museum of medals and coins, from Chlldebert*i time (»1X 
including English from 1422 (Henry VI.), Spanish from 560, and other countries, of which there %% a 
catalogue. Admission (to the Afu/teum only), Tuesday and Friday, 12 to 3. Apply la writing. 

H6tel de Sully, Rue St. Antoine, Ko. 143, was inhablUd by Henry IV.'s famous minister, and i? 
well preservud- 

H6tel d9 V1110, or "Mansion House" and '►GuUdhaU" combined, opposite the Place de Gr^ve (th© 
scene of many a bloody deed), near the Pont d'Arcolc, was begun 11538-1628, on the site of the MalsoQ 
do la Grfeve, in the Renaissance style; to this other large piles were added, 1838-41, so as to make » 
jftst quadrangle, with pillars between the windows, and about sixty statues, of which twenty-eight were 
In the west, or principal front, besides a bas-relief of Henry IV. It was burnt with all Its decoration^ 
library, Ac, by the Communists, 24th May, 1871, when above 600 persons perished; and has now been 
fully restored. In one of the three courts was a statue of Louis XIV. Two very rich staircases led to the 
great room, called Salle de Danse ; another to the Grand Salle, the largest and most ancient of all, 
ornamented with great marble fire-places, paintings, busts, escutcheons, &c. Here was the room where 
Robespierre held his councils. From the middle window, looking into the square, Louis XVI. spoke to 
the people, with the "bonnet rodge" on his head; Lafayette presented Louis Philippe to them, 1830.; 
and Lamartine persuaded the people to adopt the tricolor instead of the red flag, 1848. Here the 
Government of Diefehoe were seated down to J8th February, 1871, and the Communist leaders 
from 10th March to 22nd May. There were above one hundred and sixty public rooms here ; amon|r 
which were the putllo Library of 100,000 volumes; the Salle du Conseil; the Prefect's apartmenti; 
the Salle d'lutroductlon. In which was Bozio's (Statue of Henry IV.; the Salle de Bal, 70 feet by 40, 
with poftrilts, *c. The rebuilding, in essentially the same grandeur afid riehoess of d«tai)« was 
completed In 1883. Visitors can only see the Courts and the Council Chamber. Open Tuesday, 
Thursday, and Saturday. The new Towto Library, with a Mus^e Historique, is at the H9i€i * 
Cm-navalet. Open Sunday and Thursday. 

Imprimerie Natlonale, Rue Viellle du Temple, belonged to Cardinal de Rohan, of the time of 
Louis XIV., but is used as a Government Printing Office, since 1809, about one thousand hands bein^ 
employed. When Pope Pius VII. visited it, the Lord's Prayer was printed for him in one hundred 
and fifty languages. May be seen on Thursday, at 2 prompt, by application in writing, beforehand, 
to the director. The Archives Nationales are close by. Open every day but Sunday. 
Ihstitutb op Frxkce.— See Palais de rinititut. 

Institution Hatlonale des Jeiines Avenges, Boulevard des Invalldes, Ko. 56, founded, 
1784, by Valentine Hally, a blind man. It Is a fine, large building, with gardens, on a space of fotir 
**tou9and feet square, built 1848, by Philippon, for three hundred, and includes a Grecian chap^« 



INTRODIX!TIOK. Iv, 

- •  

The teachers are blind ; weaving, brush and basket making, printing, masic, mathematics, Ac.,' are 
ianght. Strangers, oh Wednesday s; 1-80 and 4, by permission from the ifireetor, obtained Wore- 
hand. A public examination on the last Saturday in erery month, which foreigners may attend. 

Xnstitotion Vationile des Sonnlfl'Muete (Deaf and Damb), Bue St. Jacques, in St. Magliere'f 
Seminary, was founded by Abb^ de TBp^, 1776 (?), and has about two hundred inmates. The good 
Abba's portrait, by Camus, Is here ; one of his pupils, A. Dubois, died in it lately, upwards of ninety 
years old. A work by a deaf and dumb artist adorns the ehapel. Saturday, 2 o*clock, by ticl^et froa 
dbNsotor, olxtaiiifid btforehand. 

Jardln des Plantes (Botanic Garden), opposite Pont d'Austerllti, near the Halle aux Vlns, was 
founded by Louis Xlil., in 1685, aiid increased by the care of Tournefort, Yaillant, Ju^sleu, Buifbn, 
Foureroy, Cuvier, Brongniart, aud other learned men. In this vast collection there are tiie following 
divisions :— A Botanic Garden of 12,000 plants and trees. Botanic Gallery, with stiUiie of Jussleu, 
mineral Gallery, 640 feet long, with sixty thousand specimens. Zoological Gallery, of 896 feet, in sik 
rooms, with two hundred thousand specimens, of which two thousand are mammalia, ten thousand 
are birds, five thousand are fishes, two thousand are reptiles. Comparatire Anatomy Gallery, in 
"twelve rooms, with many thousand specimens, chiefly arranged by Cavler, whose bsut, by David, la 
here. Also a menagerie, some of the animals in which were killed for food in the sle^ of 1871 ; 
hall for leetares (to contain 1,900), which the public attend, gratis; and a library of fUtjr-lBve 
thonsasd volttmes, besides ninety st>leiidid vcriumes of plants, Ac. (eoloured, on vellum). There i«, 
in the grounds, a very fine cedar, given by Collinaon, the English naturalist, planted b| Jassieu, 
1784, near the pavilion and dUl, on a height commandlag a good view, and not far fnuk the grave 
of Daubenton. Botanical Garden, open daily; Zoological Garden, 1 to 4, Thursdays fitk% other dayt, 
-by ticket. (Safleiles, free on Sunday and Thursday, 11 to 8. Closed on Monday. 

• 

Jardin ZOOlOglqne et d'Acclimatation, in the western portion of the Bois de Boulogne. 
Collection of living animals, aquarium, aviaries, Ac, open daily. Admission, 1 franc; Thursdays and 
Sundays, 60 cents. 

; tMWrre (Rw da Bivoii), begun 1511, by Francis I., on the aite of Dagobert^s castle (or LouvetetHe)^ 
was enlarged by I«eoi8 XIV. (who finished the long gallery to the Taileries), after Perrault's designs, and 
tnprovedby Napoleoo. The west side, or old Louvre, was built by Henry II., aud has sculptures by 
^aro^jon. They show a window from which Charles IX. viewed the Bartholomew massacre, but he 
was at the Cb&teau de Bourbon, close by. Henrietta Maria, widow of Charles I., resided here in 
poverty. The best part (and best seen from Pont Neuf) is the east front, which has C. Perrault's 
colonnade of 28 pillars, 38 feet high; it is 625 feet long and 85 high, and Includes Napoleon's bronze 
gates. In the south front (towards the river) are 40 pilasters. The decorated court, ineide, is 408 feet 
 square, and, till 1848, held Marochctti*8 bronze statue of the Duke of Orlsane. The Louvre is nofc' 
used as a vast Museum of paintings and works of art ; Including about 1,800 specimens of ererf school 
of painting (1,800 being French, Flemish, German, Ztaliaa— and 450 Spuiish), with viodeli, busts, 
marbles, antiquities^ bijoux, *c. Admission, » to 5, every day except Monday; Sunday, 10 to 4. 
Catalogues at the door. The ahriSffed catak»g«e oi paintings if anfBcJ^nt. The whole OQUecti<m has 
been reaTTanged,vIe.:— Ancient sculpture, modem eculpture, eagravit^g», paintiajgs, Assyriaa, Jfigyjitian, 
Etraseaa, Greek, Mediesval, AiiericaB <Mexiean>, and Algerian antiquities, drawings, marine models, 
and Chinese Museum. As attempt to bunt it wae mads the CommuMsts, 167 i ; but enly the library 
was Injured. 

LUD^V^bOUflf.— -See Palais du luxemhourg. 

;Ltc8S HJcfi^ Qf7ATU£, Rue Clovis, 23, called LycSc PTapoleon from 1831 to 1870, 

U/^ py ij^ {^^jflfi ji^},-rlSkQft cpmpletcly huili over. 



r 



Ivi. INTRODUCTION. 

Uadtieine ChurOh, Rue Roy ale, at the upper end, nelu* the Boulevards, was begun 1764 (behi^ 
the fifth on this site), and finally completed in 1842. Vignon, its designer, was the chief architect. 
It stands on a platform 328 feet by 133 feet, with flights of 28 steps at each end. The bronze gates 
deserve special attention, being beautifully sculptured in relief, representing the Commandments, &c. 
It is in the style of a Grecian temple, and has 52 pillars round three sides, each 49 feet high, with 33 
statnes of saints between. In the south pediment — ^the largest of the kind existing-— is a fine alto-relief, 
by Lemaire, 126 feet long, of Christ and the Magrdalene ; the bronze door beneath is 82 feet by 16^, 
covered with bas-reliefs from Scripture. Inside are six chapels, adorned with paintings of the 
Magdalen ; over the altar (by Marochetti) is Ziegler's picture of the Progress of Christianity. 

Mamifactare Natlonale des GobeUna, 40, Avenue des Gobelins, on the Bibvre (where tanners, 
dyers, Ac, have settled for ages), takes its name from Jean Gobelins, a tapestry worker, about 1450, and 
was turned, 1662, into a Government factory by Louis XIV., who employed Lebrun to paint the designs. 
Large elaborate pictures are here copied, with all the effect and smoothness of an oil painting— not for 
sale, but for presents. A carpet factory is attached to it, called La Savonnerie, from an old soap work 
in which Marie de Medicis placed it, 1615. Some carpets take ten years to make, and cost 180.000 
francs. Strangers on Wednesday and Saturday, 1 to 3. Passport should be shown. A catalogue may 
be had. Part of the factory was burnt 25th May, 1871, and much tapestry destroyed. 

Maxdl^ des Innocens, or Halles Centrales, Rue Rambnteau and Point-Saint-Eustache, 
is used for fruit, vegetables, and provisions, and has in the midst an old fountain in 
the Renaissance style, 42 feet high, built, 1551, by Lescot and Goujon. Having been rebuilt 
and extended by the Emperor Napoleon, this market now forms a very extensive range. The 
MiareM t^. Oermain is near St. Sulpice. The Horse Market (aux Chevaux) on Boulevard de rHdpital; 
Wednesday and Saturday. Market for hunters, ^c, Thursday, 1 to 5, in Rue Beaujon (the French 
'^Tattersall's'*), near the Champs Elys^es. Sunday Dog Market, 12 to 2, at the Horse Market above. 

MiUTJOiT Hospital.-- See Church of Vol de France. 

Montmartre (on the northern side), where St. Denis was martyred; a fine point of view over the 
city, marked by windmills; and by a grand Memorial Church, now in progress. Here the Communists 
seized the cannon, 18th March, 1871, and began the rebellion against the Government, after killing 
Generals Thomas and Lecomte. Hal^vy, the composer, is buried in the Cemetery below. 

Morgue, a new building, excellently arranged, near NOtre Dame, where persons found drowned, 
or accidentally dead, are brought, to be recognised by their friends. If not claimed, the bodies are 
given up for dissection. Nervous people are advised to refrain from a visit. 

Md8£b Abchbolooiqus.— See Hdtel Cluny. 

Mus^e d'Artmerle (now transferred to the Invalides) is a collection (something like the Woolwich 
Repository) of guns of all kinds, models, suits of armour, portraits of generals, <&c. Strangers on 
Sundays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays, 12 to 4, by card. 

Mns£E DuPDTTREN, Ruc der^cole de Medicine, No. 15, in the Old Cordeliers' convent, was founded by 
the great surgeon whose name it bears. Dissecting-rooms are attached to it. At No. 18, in the same 
street, Marat was stabbed in his bath by Charlotte Corday. Open daily, 10 to 4. 

Notre Dame CaUiedral, in the lie de la Clt^, on the site of a Roman temple, and of an early 
Christian church. Bishop Maurice began the present building about 1163; another bishop Maurice 
built the west front, 1228, and the south, or Stephen's porch, 1251 ; Philippe le Bel the north transept 
and the Virgin's porch, 1312 ; and Jean-sans-Peur began the beautiful por<e rouge (In the choir), 1407. 
The west doors were made by Biscomette, 1570-80. It is cruciform in plan, with an eight-sided apse 
at the east end ; 390 feet by 144 in dimension, and 102 high to the chestnut roof ; and the style, early 
r^^x.y^ of the 13th and 14tb centuries. Four stained circular windows are 36 feet in diameter. The tvest 
^28 feet wide, with a triple portal deeply recessed, and set off with figures of saints, ftc.{ and 



INTRODUCTION. ^Ivui 

earred Scripture subjects. The towers, square and massive, are 320 feet high ; in one is an old clock, 
and the Bourbon bell is in the other (south). Flying buttresses and pinnacles are seen all round. The 
pillars in the aisle are plain and clustered, alternately ; double-pointed windows light the clerestory. 
The organ contains 5,240 pipes. In the choir are carved stalls, with pictures, and 24 alto-reliefs, 
coloured, of scenes in the life of Christ. In one (St. Charles) of its SO chapels, is Dessine^s statue of 
Cardinal Belloy ; but most of them were stripped bare at the Revolution. In the sacristy, ecclesiastical 
Testments are kept. Among the relics are fragrments of the crown of thonis and the *'true cross,*' and 
the shot which killed the Archbishop of Paris, in 1848. The space in front of the cathedral is called 
the Parvis, and was formerly many feet higher than the inside. To the south stood the archbishop*! 
palace, destroyed, 1330. A Gothic fountain, 60 feet high, built 1845, is behind. The cathedral has been 
renovated since 1845. Its destruction was attempted by the Communists, 1871. 

Observatory.— See PafaU du Luxembourg. 

Palais and Ecole des Beaux Arts, 14, Rue Bonaparte, is a school of painting, sculpture, 
and architecture, in the remains of an old convent, to which a modem pile was added, 240 feet b}* 60. 
In one of the courts stands the beautiful Renaissance front of Cardinal d'Amboise's ch&teau, brought 
from Gaillon in Normandy ; also the portal of the Ch&teau d'Anet (where Diane de Poitiers lived), 
forming the entrance to a chapel now used as a magazine. Among the casts here is a model of the 
great elephant, which was to adorn Place de la Bastille. Several specimens of old buildings from 
different quarters of France are to be seen. There are also galleries of ancient andmediaaval sculpture, 
and Delaroche's great fresco picture of celebrated artists, with 75 figures in it, presided over by 2ieuxi8, 
Phidias, and Apelles ; besides portraits, models, &c. Strangers, daily, 10 to 4, Sundays, 12 to 4, by card. 

Palais Bourbon, usually known as Palais du Corps Legislatif, opposite Pont de la Concorde, was 
begun in 1722, by the Dowager Duchess of Bourbon; and is the seat of the Chamber of Deputies, 
and of its President. It was used by the Council of Five Hundred, at the first Revolution, afterwards 
by the Chambre des Deputes, which, after 1870, removed its sittingps to Versailles. The north front 
(towards the river) was built 1802, and is 101 feet broad, with twelve Grecian pillars, flights of steps, 
figures, and busts. Inside are marble statues and frescoes, leading to the semi-circular chamber, with 
its raised seats, president's chair, tribune for the speakers, bas-reliefs, public gallery, and other 
memorials o'f a constitutional order of things. Here the Duke of Orleans took the oath as King of 
the French, 9th August, 1830. It is not open to the public. 

Palais de I'lnstltUt, on Qual Contl, near the Hdtel des Monnaies, was the ColMg« Mazarin, or 
College of the Four Nations, built 1662, now granted to the Institute of France. The dark front, 
known by its Lion Fountains at each comer, is crescent-shaped, with a chapel in the middle, at present 
used as a hall of sittings, and adorned with busts, &c. The Mazarin Library^ of 200,000 volumes, 
with 4,000 HSS., Is open to the public daily, 11 to 4; but the Institute Library, of 100,000 volumes, rich 
in works of science, Ac, can be seen only by a member's ticket. It has Pigalle's famous statue of Vol- 
taire. The French Institute is divided into five sections, viz., the Academic FrauQaise, Academic des 
Inscriptions et Belles Lettres, Academic des Sciences, Academic, des Beaux Arts, Academic des 
Sciences Morales et Politiques. Admission to one of their sittings may be obtained by writing to 
Secretary of the Academic des 

Palais de Justice, or Law Courts, on He de la Cit6, was the seat of the French kings till the 14th 
century, and has been rebuilt; it was nearly destroyed 22nd May, 1871. A dome rises over the 
front. In one comer of the square (in which the pillory stood), the guillotine carts, during the Revolution, 
received their victims to carry them to the scaffold. The Salle des Pas Perdus^ as rebuilt, 1622, by Des- 
brossei (part in 1766), and restored by Viollet le Due, in 1878, is 280 feet by 86, and contains a monument 
"by Dvmont (1822) to Maleiiherbes, the courageous counsel of Louis XVI. The Cour de Cassation (the 
hlfflint eourt of appeal), formerly called the " Grande Chambre de Louis," has statues of d*> 



i»# 



ivcftODVon^T* 



and rHdpiial, two grMi Uwyers. Other courts 4tc^ are the GhAmbref dflVltequ^te^ ; Otmtt of Fnonrlbn 
^[QStaiice ; Gallery of Portraits of Lawyeri; the famous Coneiergarit^ 4>t prison, with towers, Ac^ In the 
feudal style, one of which held the toum^ or alarm bell. The chapel and dungeon wh«^ Marie Aatoinettf 
and the Princess Elizabeth were confined was destroyed darin; the conflat^'ration of 1871v vltti 
ihe Souriclfere or 3t. Louis' Kitchen. About 240 prisoners were massacred in oold blood here, 9ad 
and 3rd September, 1792. Permission to visit the Conciergeri« must be obtained from the Pr^fectura. 
The Hdta de la Prifeeture de Police, burnt 2<th May, 1871, by Ferr^ and his gang (when 150 iNrisoners 
were shot or burnt), has been rebuilt. Here is the Saillto CbapeUe, a beautiful specimen of florid 
Gothic, in two storeys, restored in 1853; first buUt, 124o>48, by &t. Louis, to eontaitt nelice sold to him by 
Baldwhi of Constantinople. It id 110 feet by 84 1 and baa a fine ro«e window, a delicate modern aplj^ 
of 180 feet, and stained Bide wladowa, with battiesses and pinnaelaa; the Interior is ri<dUy ^Oi §ad 
ornamented. Admission daily, except Monday, 11 to 4. 

Palais du Luxembourg, Rue de Vaugirard, on the site of the Due de Plney-Luxembourg's house, vas 
•built, after 16i2, by Desbrosses, for Marie de M^dicis, on the plan of the Pitti Palace (Florence), and came 
io the Orleans and other families. The Directory sat here, 1795 ; also the Consul, 1799; and the Peers, 
after 1814, till the Revolution of 1848. It was afterwards occupied by the Imperial Senate. It Is a solid, 
well-proportioned, square pile, with pilasters In front, and a court 860 feet by 300. Paintings in the 
Sidle des Messagers, and a large one, on wax, in the Salle des Conferences. The Salle des Stances (6t 
•ittfaigs) is a splendid semicircle, 92 feet diameter, with a painted vault, and statues of French stated- 
men. The Salle du Trone is ornamented with tapestry, and the First Consul's state chair. Other rooms 
are, the painted library, with 1,600 volumes ; Marie de M^dicU' Chapel and bed-chamber ; also, another 
'«hapel, with Pujol's great fresco. The Picture Gallery of living artists is the only part of the building 
Abown, the rest being occupied by the Prefecture of the Seiue. The Gardens behind were in the sjyle 
of the TuiLarieo, with parterres, st«tae« of the Queens of France, and through them a broad avenue 
(near j^ey'i Btaiue, on the spot where he wfs «hot, December, 1815) runs up to the National Oif$erva$oiy. 
They have been much reduced In size lateiy. The Galiei? is open every day in sumpier, to 5, In 
winter, 10 to 4, exoept Monday. Sundays, 10 to 4. 

VaiMJta BOSral, Rae St. Hoaer^ was first buiH as Palais Cardinal, by Rkihelieu, and gfren, 1«I9, to 

l^rals lUiL Loids XTV. granted it to his nephew, Pliflip of Oxi^aaa. Th« Begent Ortdans here cod- 

ieo^ hla gams aad madals, aa weli as his '' Ortdaas galiery " <d ptetures, whleh was dispersed at the 

Revolution. Philippe Egalitd rebuilt the fnmt, 1788, after a fin, and let most e( It o«t as shops aft«r 

J780. The Jaoobla and other clubs met here at the first Revolution. In that of 1848, the Royal apart- 

jnents were completely gutted; they were afterwards occupied by Jerome Bonaparte and his son. Ti^e 

Cour d'Houneur was burnt, May, 1871, by the Communists; but the restaurants, Cftfds, <fcc., ^n 

jhe noble-looking court, were saved. This court is 700 feet by 300, planted with trees, and adorned 

with a fine jet d'eau. People come here to read the papers, and it presents a very gay aceue on a 

jammer's evening. Close to the statue of Eurj'dice, a small cannon is fired daily, at noon, by meapa pf 

the sun, when he pleases to shine. The Palais (not shown) is now used by the Conseil d'&tal. 

Pastllifott-— Aaa SU. Oeitefiioe. 

' B^ la Ghaise.— See CMiefienr. 

Pebss (Rue des Saints) has, at No. 28, the ificole Rationale des Pouts et Chauss^es, and, at No. 49, 
tlie AeaMmie de M^decine. 

Flace de la Bastille. Rue St. Antolne, where the BastUle stood, till captured by the ipob, 14th 

July, 1789, aiul pulled down, 1790. \t was a castle-shaped pile, to which state prisoners were sent at 

the mere will of the king or his lauuisters, expressed in an order called a leitredticackit. Th^s w^s 

renlaoed by the Column of Julff, to the memofy of 615 " Citoyens Franoais," who fell in thp J^toIi^q -of 

'>Jt4i,28th,an4^^^Bly): U VM d^siifned bj AUvoiiie, it X54 ffi<4 high, 13 ia d^MWB>l»r, liil^fW- 



'IKtftODtJCTlOir. jipc 



^ 



t itAnt tt tonr of bfoii2« metal. Being unsupported by maspnry inside. It sbakts s^slbly vlth t)iQ wind. 
There Is a good view from the top. It was at the barricade here that General Negrier apd Arch- 
bishop Affre were killed, in 1848; and that a hard fight took place with the Communists, Hay, 187L 

Place da Oarroiuel, Rue de RItoU, surrounded by the Lourre, so called from a tournament held .in 
1662. On one side is Napoleon's TiHumphal Atxh. 46 feet high, 64 wide, with a gateway on each 
side, built 1806. It is covered with bas-reliefs of the events of 1805 (Austerlitz, Ulm, Ac); and the 
horses of St. Mark were placed on it, till carried back to Venice, 1814; but this loss is made up by a 
bronze group, by Bosio. Henry IV. and Louis XIV. built the long gallery towards the rirer, joining the 
Tuileries and Lourre; the new gallery to the north (near Rue de Rivoli) was completed by the Emperor 
Louis Napoleon, after Visconti's designs. Statue of Qambetta, erected 1888. 

Plack dd CalTKLBT, ou the site of an old ch&teau prison, has Bralle's Falm-treo Fountain, the 
Fontaine de la Victoire, with a eolumn 54 feet high. ' 

Place do la Concorde, Rue de Riroll, opposite the Tuileries, was laid out in the time of Louis XV., 
whose statue here was pulled down at the Revolution. The horses on the west side were set up by 
Constou, 1763-72; those on the east by Coysevox. It is surrounded by a dry moat (now planted); and 
allegorical pavilions to eight large French cities. In the midst, between two fountains, 50 feet dia- 
meter^ is the famous Luxor Obelisk^ erected at Thebes, 1550 B.C., brought by ship from Egj'pt, 1833, to 
Cherbourg, and set up here, 1886. It is a single block of* reddish granite, 76 feet high, 7^ brofld at the 
base, and covered with 1,600 hieroglyph ical characters, descriptive of the actions of Rameses or Sesos- 
tris. On the pedestal, of Brittany granite, 27 feet high, are pictorial representations of the mnchlnery 
employed in Egypt and Paris to move the obelisk. Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette were executed 
here, 1793, as well as Charlotte Corday and Philippe Egalit^; Danton, Robespierre, St. Just, Ac. 
in 179^. In two years, 2,800 victims suffered on this spot by the guillotine— fa petite' 'faiitre na' 
tionale^ or *' little national window,'' as the Republicans nicknamed it (from the hole which received the 
neck) — the very instrument which, in 1815, was in the possession of a carpenter in Riie Pont-arx-Chotix, 
near the Marais. The centre of the Place is one of the finest points of view in^Paris.' *" Here the Germans 
bivouacked, March, 1871. The statue of Lille was half -rained in the fight of 21st-22nd May, with the 
Communists. »  

Plxci DBS VoSGBa (formerly Place Royale), Rue St. Louis, on the site of the Palais des Toumelles 
(so called from its little towers), in which Henry II. was killed, 1539, when tilting with Montgomery, 
on which account his widow, Catherine de Medicis, pulled it down a few years after. A statue, of 
Louis XIII. is here,fMeoc«^ ha IMf. This place is an exact square of 430 feet, surrounded by trees i^ud 
tall old-fashionodJuoOstii MVtntf dating from the beginning of the 17th century. 

Place V(iBdOB%«(tlM«iof oTtefdela Paix, built by Mansard, on the site of the Due de Vendome's 
Hdtel. In the centre aCMdi thm fiml&me Column, built 1806-10, a copy of Trajan's (but oue-twelfth 
larger), 140 feet high, 13 fa diameter; with a statue of Napoleon on the top, 11 feet high, origin^fly 
placed there in 1883. The pillar was levelled by the Communists, May, 1871, led on by Cwurbet 
the painter; but is now again restored. On the pe^^stal and shaft are a series of bronze bas-reliefs 
of the victories of 1305 — from the departure of the troops to the battle of Austerlitz, where the 
cannons which furnished the metal were taken. These bronzes run in a spiral, 840 feet long, and 
include as many as 3,000 figures, 8 feet high. A staircase inside leads to the top. Admission suspended. 

Plxcb DBS VicToiBBS li circular, and has a bronze statue of Louis XIV., by Bosio. Close by is the 
Church of Notre Dame des Victoires, with a beautifully decorated and much frequented shrine in the 
Lady Chapel. 

PlaOM Of WonUlp-<iV«<«#/afiO.-'Chttreh service at the English Church, 5, Rue d'Aguesseau, 
Faubourg St. Honors ; Anglican Chuich, Rue des Bassins; Christ Church, 49, Bouleyard Blneau, 
l^eallly; CongregftUonal 9hft|)el, 98, Rue BoyaU^ %w\<k Church, 17, Rue Paywrd, At. MontJ-'—- 



CKurch, Aveiiue de fAl'ma. ' *••■■'. • •• ;•• 'T 

French Protestant Churches (called Temples) of the ^eformeft Comnitinion. Tfempl* a« rOrtWjfr*^ Ittie 
6t. Honors, At 12. Temple de St«. Marie, 316, Rile St. Antoine, at 13^. Temple de Feat^moii^ 106, Rae 
Grenelle St. Germain, at 12. Temple de BatignoUes-Mouceanx, 88, between the Barrifere* de GLichy 
and Monceaux, at 12-30; and at Eglise SU Esprit, 5, Rae Roquepinei at 12. Sunday Schools <heldM 
9i a.m.) are attached to nearly «dl. (See QtHi^nanft Messenger ol Saturday for particulars.) English 
Soman Catholic Church, Avenue llochok 

Jhrittdfal Bvtmgogne^B,UB Notre Dame de Nazareth. 

PoLiCB Office.— See Pafais (fo/tM<i'c0. 

Pdato'-PoNT ]>*A6coi<s, a auBpensioa bridge, near the Hdtel de Ville, not named after Napoleon*! 
feat at. Arcole, as might be supposed, bat suggested by a similar «ot otd«j»j)g by a jQiuig man who led 
the Parisians against the troops, 1830, and whose name, curiously enough, was Arcole. , . 

PoMT DK l'Alua, next the Pout des Invalides, with statues of soldiers on the sides. ^ 

Pont des Asts, betwew the Louvre and Palais des Beaux Arts (the oldest iron bridge In iParts), was 
first built in 1804, and is 488 feet long. \ 

POKT d'Austbkutz, ou fivc iron arches, was built 1801-7, by Be'ftupriT, and rebuilt in 1851. 

Pont au Changs, from the lie de la Cit^ to the north side; where the money changers lived. 

PoNX DU CABROiTSEi«<or, DBS SAINTS PJ^BEs), near the place of that name. 

Pont db la Concobob, opposite that Place, was built 1787-90, by Peyronnet, on five oval arches, 461 
feiet long, 61 broad. Some <^ the stones used were taken from the Bastille. The twelve statues which 
adorned it arc now at Versailles. 

Font dss Invalides, opposite the Hotel des Invalides, a stone bridge, 350 feet long. 

Pont d'Ibna, opposite the Eiffel Tower, a simple but elegant five-arch bridge on a level, 460 feet long, 
and so called after the great battle of 1806, when Napoleon defeated the Prussians. Bliicher wo^d 
have blown it up in 1814, but for the interference of the Duke of Wellington. 

Pont Louis Philippb, from the He de la Cit^ to the Qua! de TUotel de Ville. Close by is the Pont 
St. Louis, between lie de la Cit^ and He St. Louis. 

Pont Neuf (New Bridge), joinmg Rues Dauphine and du Pont Neuf, across He de la Cit^, was begun, 
157d, by Henry III., and finished, 1604, by Henry IV. It is the " London bridge" of Paris, is on twelve 
arches, and is 1,080 feet long, by 76 broad. A little on one side of the m'iiidle, at the eni of th^ Island, 
is Limot's bronze equestrian istatue of Henri Qaafre, the favourite hero of France. It was set up, idlS, 
by Louis XVIII., in place of one erected by Henri's widow ; and is 14 feet high, weighing 30,0001bs. 
In one of the bas-reliefs on the marble pedestal, Ihe generous king (qui/ut de ses sujets le vainqiieur et le 
•pire) feeds the poof pec^le of his rebellious capital which he was theh besieging; And in thfi otfier he 
sends a message of peace to them. Th€ Shops, once on this bridge^ weife removed in the first ii&If of 
tlAie eentory, arid the brid|^e itself was restored in 186&. 

^ont Note< Damb, near the H6tel Dien, the second (ddest bridge in PaHs, rebuilt i49MlK)7» 

Petit Pont, near Hdtel Dieu, the oldest. Both this and th^ Pent Notre Dame wete rebuilt In 18158. 

Pont Royal leads from the Tulleries to the Qua! d'Orsay, and to tlie Palais (tOrsay, In Ilue de Lille, 
a vast building, begun by Napoleon, in the Renaissance style, Tialf ruined by the Comuiuhe. ' 

Pont Sully, a double suspension bridge from lie de la Cit^, across the end of He St. Louis. 

Pont db Solferino, between the Tulleries and Pidace of the Legion of Honour; of iron, 600 feet long, 

Porte St. Denis, Ruedu Faubourg St. Denis, is a triumphal Arch to Louis XIV., built 167*2, by 
Blondell, 72 feet high, the mid arch being 42 high and 25 wide. The carvings and inscriptions refer to 
the passage of the Rhine, \ekinis of Maest^idit (Tra]«ct'ttm nd ^osam), ^. 4l«eh figbiln^ tw^ place 
iier«,189(K . . . . . ' 






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' i»**t>i>t«!wA». .-■•• * '^j. 

Pome ^t. JtAkm.ih BottlevArd St. »«rtlrt, ibuIU im, by Blindliri popll, BalUU witW irch 
Mli^ n honour of Louts XlV., rfter the taking of Besanjon (\re,„„tlo) ind LImbour,. It i. Mfeei 

li»' T ^"^ , « ^ ''"° ""'' '" '"^''- ^"" "•">»«" "» »"<=""='. '"t « ™>e. ««d with fil, 
emWcra, the grand Solell ot Sun. It wis half-ruined 1871, and A. Duma,' Theatre burnt now rebulft). 

kJ^I Offlce.-aener«l Office (Hdtel de. Porte,) In Hue du LoUvre. There are about 104 
branch office, called B„r««« d^Arr,mdUm„ent, and about 1,000 smaller, called BoU« «i« 

Cart,, 10 oent^ Letter, from and to England, and any other country In the Postal Union 16 cehl, 
A Po,t Office Order 1, Mindat de Po,te. Letter, forthe dep.rtment,T„d foreign countrle, 1 In uie 

be directed to a traveller, "Po.l, Rdan.e," *.«., to be called for, at Pari, or Any other toWn^ndwiia^ 
dehTcrcd upon showing the passport, between 8 and 8 (or 8 and « on Sunday).-Thcrc Is now a parcel-nost 
ID existence between France and England. , . . . . 

Railway 1*611111211 (Gares, Embarcadbres). ^, 

1.— Du Nord-To Boulogne, Ctlaid, BrttsseU, &c., at Rue de Dtmkerque. 

l^De rbuest-To Ro^en, Havre Dieppe, Cherbourg, Caen, Ac, Ligaes de Normandie at fijie 
fit. Lazare ; LignesdcBretagne, Bottlerard Mont Pamasse. "»»#iUM5 «s iuio 

8.— Do r Est— To Strasbourg, Mulhouse, at Boulevard de Strasbourg. 
4. -To Lyons, Marseilles. Ac, in Boulevard DidezDt. 

5.- To prions, Moulins, Tours, Nantes, Bordeaux, the South of E«ac» (Du IlidA, Ae^ ft| 6ual 
d'Austerlitz. " ^ *• ^aai 

(J.- To Versailles, Bennea, and Brest (rive gauche, or left bank of Setae) ia Boultarard U^t 
Parnasse. (^c r Quest line, above). / *-« ^omaTartt Mflfat 

7. -To St. Germain and VersaUles (rive drolte), Boulevard St. Lafcare. Opened 1887 rt\s>^ MA'i.* 
made). The Chemin de Fer de Ceintui^ or Circular Line, connects the different termhli; ^ 

$.- Banlleuei Rive Drolte, St. Lasare ; Rive Gauche, BonlevaM Mont Panmsse. 
9.— To Vincenues and Brio Comte Robert, Place dc la BastUle.   ' 

IO.-tTo Sce&nx, Oraay, and Limoun, Place Denfert-Rocheredu. - 

About 80 kilos, or 661bs. of baggage are allovred on the main lines fol- all daises 
RtCHBUBtJ (Rue) has, at No. 68, the BIbliothfeqtte Natlonale dnd a public fountain ealTp;! tiA;.u« 
de Mollferc, opposite, near MoHere's House, No. 34.  xountaw, Called Ponfako 

RiroM (Rue dfi) contains the Tuileries, Louvro, Hdtel das rtniuees. Caserne !(rapol*Mi TortY rfn Sf 
Jacques. This fine street now extends nearly two miles, passing the HOtel de Vllle iihd\* U..J' U 
stone built houses and shops, 6 and 7 storeys high, . . ' " " ""ca witn 

Roman Catholic (English) Chukch; St, Joseph's Retreat, ««,Avflm»«Mbe4 » 

Roauette Prison, in Rue de la Roquette, Here the Communists shot tlia hostBir^ %^ or*i. 
May, 1871, including Archbishop Darboy, President Bonjean, the Cwf of the Madelalji«. «„Tl!!r.I.u 
Innocent persons? for which their leaders were eiecc ted. **»»•«»«> awn^nywher 

RoTALE (Rac) has the Madelehie at its lower end. '^ 

Saintb Chapelle.— Sefe Pdiais de Justice. 

SEViONE (Rue de) No. 28 is the H6tel de Carnavalet, a fin, house of ih6 leth c^atoiy. oufla th,^,eat 
of aiadame de S^vigii^ and her daughter, to whom her letters were written. It was buin in 1 ?^ k 
Bullant ; carvtagt by J. Qou jon. The Mtmicijkil Llbhtry is now here. . i»^4>y 

Skverix (Rue St.), left bank, has, at No. 8, St. Severin's Church, of the 18th cchtuiy^ ' ' 



■» I 



r 



,ij^L . llJttiototCTlQfr. 

T«LE<JHl»tt OIWtctS-Tholo Kt Hace 4e la Bourse and Rue de Grenella-St^Qefrnftln Are opfen.day 
and niffht. Others are open till midnight, but the usual hour is 9 p.m. Charge for a telegram to any 
part of France, 6 cents per word, the minimum charge being 50 cents. To London, 20 cents, per woril, 
minimum, 1 franc. Money may be sent by a deposit at the Telegraph Station. 

Temple, in Rue du Temple, belonged to the Knights Templars whom Philippe le Bel suppressed, 
1312 (when Molay, the «nmd-master, and the grand prior, Guy, were burnt before Notre Dame), 
and was a refuge for debtors, Ac. What remains of it is the Prior's House, built 1566, by 
Jacques de SouTre, grand prior of the Knights of St. John, but since much altered. The tower where 
Loulf XVI. was imprisoned before his execution (21st January, 1798), and in which Sir S. Smith, 
Captain Wright, Pichegru, and Toussaint I'Ouverture were confined, was taken down, 1805; but a 
model if kept. There is a large market for old clothes, furniture, Ac, in what was formerly the 
enclosure of the Temple. 

TheatreB, &C.— The splendid new Opera House, in Place du Nouvel Optfra, built at a cost of about 
£1,000,000, was opened 1st January, 1875, in presence of the President, Marshal Macmahon, of the 
I^rd Mayor (Stone), invited over for the occasion, and of other personages. Height of the building, 
810 feet; room for 2,800. It has a noble staircase, saloons, Ac, all richly decorated. In 1886, a ten 
years' contract for lighting by electricity was concluded with the Edison company. In French 
Theatres, loffes are the boxes, baignoires are boxes near the pit, parterre is the pit (used only by men). 
Host of them open at six. For the performances, see Gdlignani and the daily papers. Tickets may be 
bought beforehand at the Bureau des Locations des ThtfAtres, Boulevard des Italiens. 
OpAra Coxiqub, Place Boieldieu, was burnt, 1887. It is now in the Place du Chatelet. 
Th^tre FrangalS, Bue Richelieu, comer of Palais Royal, was built 1787, by Philippe Egalit^, and 
has a Doric front 110 feet high. Places for 1,400. In the hall and saloon are Houdon's statue of 
Voltaire, busts, and memorials of Molibre, Ac. Mesdemolselles Mars and Rachel appeared here; 
the best French acting is seen. Prices, 1 to 10 francs.— At the north-west comer of Place Palais Royal 
is the small The&tre du Palais Boydl, built 1881. The pieces played here are very broad farces. 

THilTBB DU Gyxxabx, Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, has a six-column front. Scribe's plays were 
brought out here. Seats for 1,000. 

TnikTKB DB l'Odeok, Place de I'Odrfon, rebuilt 1820, after a fire; has a portico of eight pillars, and 
stands 161 feet by 112, and 64 high, with places for 1,460. 
ThAItbb DU Chatblkt, Place du Ch&telet, replaces the Lyriqne, built by Alexandre Dumas (1862), 
' and burnt by the Communists, 1871. Seats for 3,600. 

THtlTBB DES NowsAVTE'B, 28, Boulevafd des Italiens, opposite the Rue de Ghoiseul. Seats for 
l,6e0. 2 to 50 francs. 

TheJLtbb DBS Variet^s, Boulevard Montmartre, built, 1807, by Collerier, and has a double row of 
columns in front, with places for 1,250. 
Th^Itrb du Vaudbvillb, Rue de la Chauss^e d'Antin,built 1869. Prices, 1 to 50francs ; 1,300 sea$s. 
THtlTBB DBL*AilBtGU, Boulcvard St. Martin, was rebuilt 1828, with shops on the ground floor, 
and has places for 1,600. 
Tn£lTBX DB LA GAtrt, Square des Arts et Metiers, Boulevard S^bastopol, has 2,000 places. 
Gband-Tb^Itbe, Rue Boudreau, near the Opera. 1 to 10 frahcs. 
Folibs-Bbbo^bb, 82, Rue Richer. 2 to 25 francs. 

BoufVBS-pABisiBKS, PassBgc Cbolseul Pobtb St, MabtiK} Boulerard St. Martin, rebuilt sldc^ 
U was set fir^ to, 1Q71, 



IMTBOBUCtlON. IxUI^ 

Above thirty other Thbatbes, including Chdteau cTSau, Folies Dramatics, Menm PlaiHriy Ac, «r« 
on the Boalevards and elsewhere, besides several oatside the Barribres. The ConwtxUoire de JiuHqut 
is in Rue du Faubourg Poissonni^re. The Cirque dEti is in Champs J^lys^es ; the CVr^tM dHiver^ in 
Boulevard des Filles du Galvaire; the Nouveau Cirque^ at 251, Rue Saint Honors. The Hippodrome^ 
near Pont de I'Alma, is of wood, in the Moorish style, 880 feet diameter, with room for 6,000. 

TowEB OF St. Jacques de la BoucHBRtB, Rue de Rivoli, a fine Gothic remnant, 175 feet high, of a 
church destroyed in 1789. Here Pascal made his experiments on atmospheric pressure. 

Trocad^rO, near Pont d'l^ua, and Champ de Mars, on a fine point of view, overlooking Paris, th« 
river, bridges, and other objects, was built for the Exhibition of 1878; and consists of a circular build- 
ing in the Moorish style, 202 feet diameter, under a dome, with turrets 330 feet high at the sides, 
flanked by extensive semicircular wings. It contains an Ethnographical Museum, open Sundays and 
Thursdays, 12 to 4, and a Mnst:un3 of Comparative Sculpture, open daily, except Monday, 11 to 4. 

ToUerles Palace, Rue de RivoU, so called from the tUe works which stood here till 151 S. Begun, 
1561, by Catherine de Medicis, enlarged by Henry IV. and Louis XIV., and joined by galleries behind, 
to the Louvre. It was burnt by the Communists 22nd and 23rd May, 1871. It was 836 yards long in 
the Renaissance style, with a dome and high-pitched roof. The centre part lias now been cleared 
a^ifay, leaving at the extremities the Pavilions Marsan and de Flore, now restored and formerly 
occupied (pro tern.) by the Prefect of the Seine and the Municipality. The river front has been restored* 
It is joined to the Louvre by a picture gallery. It contained many beautiful rooms, as the 
Hall of the Marshals and their portraits, Salles des Gardes (containing Lenoir's symbolical 
picture of Louis XIV.), Saloon of Peace, Ac. The mob broke into it, 20th June, 1792, young Napoleon 
Bonaparte looking on; the Swiss guards were massacred, 10th August, in the same year; and it 
sniTered in the disastrous Revolution of 1848, when it was the residence of Louis Philippe; as it was 
rftcrwards that of the Emperor Napoleon. The famous Gardens^ in front, laid out by Lendtre, are 2,256 
feet by 900, and, in summer, are crowded with people enjoying the sunshine, and wandering among the 
statues, parterres, basins, chestnuts, and ehns. The view stretches through Place de la Concorde, along 
the Champs ^iys^es to the Arc de I'Etoile. Behind the Venus Pudica, one Henri hid away when he 
fired at Louis PhllipiKS, 1S4G; this was the seventh attempt on his life. The assassin Alibaud stood near 
the gate towards the river when he attempted the king's life, ten years before. Behind the palace is the 
court made by Napoleon (who used to hold bis reviews here), with the Triumphal Arch, in Place du 
Carrousel. Here the troops mount guard daily at 10, and the band plays generally a little at that hour, 
though Paris is not nearly so enlivened with military and other music as the German capitals. 
Napoleon III. carried out the original plan of uniting the Tniieries and the Louvre, by pulling 
down the houses which encumbered the Place du Carrousel, restoring the wing which faced the river, 
and building that on the side of Rue de Rivoli, in a solid and magnificent manner, suitable to the 
splendid pile, which with its vast galleries and courts now adorns the capital. This work was begun, 
1852, the cost being estimated at £3,000,000. The Emperor is said to have been bom here, but it appears, 
from Mr. B. Jerrold's Life, that he was really born at a house belonging to the Rothschilds, in Rue 
Cerutti, now Rue Laffitte. A proposition has been made to erect a Grand National Monument on the 
space formerly occupied by the burnt portion. 

Vadgirard (Rue de) contains the Luxembourg, and (at No. 70) the Carmelite Convent, where th« 
massacre of the priests began, 1792. 

Versailles.— See page 54. 

ViCTOins (Rui DE LA). — No. 52 is the house where Bonaparte lived with Josephine when he started 
fur Italy. 1796, and for Egypt. The street received its name from his Italian victories. Here he 
planned the Revolution of 18 Bputmiv^^ TTlficl) m(l4e ^im f\Ts\ ^o{)8\(l, 17£'9. It contains a handsome 
^^'nago|pie, No. 44^ 



r. 



Victor (Ru^ ^\.X Nq.. 68^ nftw a munl(5ii»l barrack, Yr^ onofi |ho. Seminj\ry of 9.t. f Vn»U»i vh«f» 
CdirlA llydd, and where 5|I unfortunate priest^ wQro massacred in 1793. 

^ifiiULW* ^u Tipo'vLit (Buo) ha* tUe Gov^rfimant Priutiu? Oflftoe (lUnprUafir^ yaUoaale), ^i> tU^ q\^ 
H4tel4Q Strasbourg, also caUed i*a/au itfu Cardinal. 

Vinid|9« (Riia)i a Twy busy i^eet, wltb g:ood shopi, laadiog to tbe Plaoa do la Boorsa. 



^5^,_T}ckets of admission to the Collection^ Artistiques de la Ville de Paris, 9, Hue Lafonialn«\ 
iriiy be obtained igratis, on applying at tlie Hdtel de Ville (Service des Beaux-Arts). These collections 
ar6 only visible on Sundays and Thursdays, from noon till 4. For the Crypts and Dome of tliei 
pjtntheon, application must be made for tickets at the Miuist^re de^ Travanx Publics^ Boulevard Stt 
Germain, S44 and 24^ 



.—From Pont ^'Austerlltz, Qua! det Taileries, Charenton, Autenli, Ac? fares, Id. to Id. 

T)i|«y toaCh at many oi the bridges. Soiie run to Point du Jour, near the Bolt de Boutogne. Otheri 
tQ'Anteail, Sbtrei, at Ca<ntd, and Sax^snei, at higher farei. 



^Ul^ate OC J^aMJL—'' With respect to c^mata, the ohief advantage whlcb Parts has over London, 
c^a&ista in the greater parity and dryness of the atmosphere, its freedom from imoke and fog, and in 
tl^ weather being less variable from day to day. Yet fogs are so9ietimos so thick, that tbe public 
civiiveyanees lose their way, and n^eet wit^ accidents. Thus to our knowledge a Batlgnolles omnibus 
w^.oapsiaed over a parapet in a fog, whereupon several of the Mna and outs' oame to grief, 
T^a summera are hotter and tbe winters equally cold, if not colder. The average quantity of rain 
which falls throughout the year is about a$ great in the one as in the other capital. It would not, 
therefore, be advisable to select Paris as a iv^iuter residence for delicate invalids, or those whose cases 
require Attention to climate. It agrees, however, with many dyspeptics, to whom the light cookery of 
the French cuisut* is .better suited than the more substantia) fare usually met with in Britain, which 
requires greater powers o| digestion— provided always that this class of Invalids abstain from ragouts, 
rich saucer, indigestible vngetahlod «f Uofflesi and from i^rtaklxig of « variety of winea."^Llui's 



nWMRQflRSftVic 



^V. 



^ 



WaUBH PIBBCTOBT OF HRST CLASS HOUSES ZN PARIS, FBOFBSSZOVAZi 

-■•- 1 'GSMllLBIIEir, »«;•.: ' o 



English akdi AmemoAb BooKSKLLiBa {wb^re 
Bradshato's CfuUkit and Mandbock$ may be ob- 
taiued). -The. €hili{inumi Xibrary, 234, Roe de 
Rivoli; K. NUssob, 91% Bue de Rl¥6li. fiaiite- 
coBur and Riohnd, It, Boalevard dot Oafnusinef; 
A. HautecGBur, 172, Ru de RiTpU \ Breotano, 17, 
Avenue de I'Op^ra. 

ExHiBiTiOK OF Lace, Dakasks, Hand Em- 
BB0IDEKIE8. — M. Je^nrum and (^o., of Venice, 82, 
Avenne de VOp^ra (Ist fluor). Worthy of a visit. 

Gbands MAOASiNf jtv LouYBX, Rue de RivoU.— 
This is probably |he finest general drapery and 
fancy establishment .in the world. Nearly any- 
thing, from a coffin tP a wedding oatfit, oan be 
bought here, and the Tisitor should certainly walk 
through the rwma, as it. is one of Ihe sights of 
Paris. 

NovELTiiss nr Silks and Fanct -Abticlxs.— 
Au Bon Marcb^, 135 and 187, Rue du Bac, comer 
of the Rue de S^vreS. This establishment, now so 
beautifully enlarged that it is one of the curiosities 
of Paris, is celebrated tor itt excellent article* at 
moderate prices. 



FERFnuR]|.*^Ghaerlain, 16, Rije d« U Palx. 
First-class house^tleservedly recommended. 

Medical.— Dr. J, Chapman, If.D., H.R.C.P.,  

London, M.R.G.S., London, late Physician to Metro* 
politan Free Hospital; anthor of "Functional 
Diseases of Women/' and other works ; 224, Rue 
de Rivoli (fachig the Tuileries Garden). Consulta- ' 
tion hours, 1 to 8. 

Dr. Alex. Boggs,MJ>., Carls; M.R.C.S.and L.M.» 
Eng.; of H.M. Indian Army; 862, Rue St. Honor^, 

Dr. C. F. Lougbnan, M.D., M.R.G.S.I., L.Mh 
88, Rue de Berri. 

Dr. Em. Yidnl, 49, Rue do Luxembourg; Mtfde- 
clo de THopital St. Louis. 

Ladies* Phybiciak. — lifrs. Brodhurst, 12, Rue- 
Mont Thabor. Consultations from 2 to 5, daily. 

Panobama db Neuville-Detaiub, vepieseiUing 
the Battle of Champigny, K, Rue de Berri. 

Tobacco.— Messrs. W. D. & H. O WUls's "Beat 
Bird's Eye" is sold by government permission a$ 
the bureau of the '< Administration des Contrlbii* 
tions Indirectes," IS, Boulevard des CapucinM. 



WATEB-CLOSETS. 

X&iportaitt.'— "IF.C^." (cabinet Inodore) at Boulevard Sebastopol, No. 119 (Passage duPonpeap)^ 
Boulevard des Jtaliens, No. 18: Passage next Police Office, Boulevard des Bonne NouveUe; l^assage 
JoufTroy, opposite the Yari^t^s ; Passage des Panoramas, next the Yariet^s ; Palais Royal (one at each 
entrance); Avenne Yictoria, 3, Rue Sfufflot, left bank of the Seine; ancl |p jnpstof ^he fquares and 
public gfirdens. AikKgardiendelapaix. Usual charge 15c* 



UtL' 



X]ITB01>UOTIOX« 



IV. 



COMMON FRENCH WORDS ANP PHRASES. 

A few of the commonest phrsses, however ill chpsen or arranged they may be, are better than nothUif 
to thQ luexperieuced traveller; and we, therefore, add a short list for his benefit. 



' 1. Les Repas. 

Lo dejeuner 

Lq ffoiiter, le second d4- 
jouner 

Lo diner 

liO th^ 

Le souper 

8. Le PabL 

Uh pain, du pain 
Uii petit pain 
))a pain blano 
Du pain de mdnage 
Du pain bis 
Du pain frais 
Du pain rassis 
D'n pain Graham 



8. La Carte. 
Dtt bouillon 
Un consomm^ 
De la sdupe 
Soupe h la vermicelle 
Soupe au rix 
Une pur^e 
De la viande 
Des c6telettes de moutou 
Un gigot 
Des rognons 
De Tagnenu 
Du lard 
Dujambca 
Da gibier 
Un p&td 
De la Tolaill« 
Un poolet 
Un dlndon 
Dtt poisson 
Du saumon 
Des soles (pron. ioll) 



Meals, 

Breakfast 

'j- Luncheon 

Dinner 

Tea 

Supper 



Bread. 

A loaf, bread 
AroU 

White bread 
Household, bread 
Brown bread 
New bread 
Stale bread 
Wheatmeal bread 

The Bill of Fare. 

Broth 

Qrayy soup 

Soup 

Vermicelli soup 

Rice soup 

Pease soup 

Meat 

Mutton chops 

A leg of mutton 

Kidneys 

Lamb 

Bacon 

Ham 

Game 

A pie 

Poultry 

A fowl 

Turkey 

Fish 

Salmon 

Soles 

0^'ster* 



t)w Ugumet 

Un ohoa 

Un ehonfleur 

Des pommes de terre 

Dos petlts pols 

Des oBuf 8 (pron. dajftiO 

Uncenf 

Des esuf s f rait 

Dq» oenf s k la eoqna 

Dea oouf 8 brouiU^s 

Une omelette 

Une salade ' 

Des biscuits 

Des g&teaux 

Du fruit 

Du fromage 

Du beurre frais 

Direri, 

Du sel 

Dupoivre 

De la moutarda 

Du Sucre 

Duthtf 

bucaftf 

4. BolSBOIL 

De Teau 

De Teaa glaetfe (frapp^) 

De Teau rougle 

Du Tin 

Du Tin blanc 

Du vln rouge 

Du vin de Bordeaux 

Du Champagrne 

Du Bourgogne 

Du vin d* Oporto 

Du X^res 

De la bifere 

De I'eau de vie — du> 
cognao I 



Yegetablea 
A cabbage 
A cauliflower 
Potatoes 
Green peas 
Eggs 
An egg 
New laid eggt 
Soft boiled 
Scrambled eggt 
An omelet 
A salad 
Biscuits 
Cakes 
Fruit . 
Cheese :* 
Fresh butter 

Biudries. 

Salt 

Pepper 

Mustard 

Sugar 

Tea 

Coffee 

Drink. 

Water 
Iced water 
Wine and water 
Wine 

White wina 
Red wine 
Claret 
Champagne 
Burgundy 
Port wine 
Sherry 
Beer 

B|«ndy— co^l^O 



^ 



IKTRODUOTIOK* 



0. De la Tal>lo, 

Un ooateau 
Une fonrchette 
Une cuillkre 
Uiieassietto 
Unplat 
Une sancikre 
Un oouvert 
Une tasse 
Un TeiTQ 
Une bouieille 
Un« nappe 



Of the Table. 

A knife 

A fork 

A spoon 

A plate 

Dish 

Sauce-boat 

Knife and fork 

Cup 

Qlass 

Bottle 

Table cloth 



THE DISHES GENERALLY FOUND AT THE 
FRENCH RESTAURATEUR S. 



6. Fotases. 

Anriz 

An Termlcelle 

A la Julienne 

Portfc 

Consommtf 

Printanier 

7. BoBuH 

BoBttf au natnrel 
BcBuf k la sauce tomate 
BcBuf k la sance piquaiite 
Entrecdte 
Filet sant^ 
Rosbif aux pommes 
Aloyau de bceuf 
Langrne de bcenf 
Bifteck saignant 
BifteckkTAsiglaise 
Bifteck aux pommes 
Bauf k la mode 

a Vean. 

Fricandeau au jut 

Fricandeau aux ^piuards 

Fricandeau k rosellle 

Fricandeau k la chicor^e 

COtdcttes de yeau au 
iiaturei 



Sonps. 

Rice soup 

Vermicelli soup 

(Soup, with chopped car- 
I rots and herbs 

Pea soup 

Gravy soup 

Vegetable soup 

Boiled beef (not taJtad) 
Beef with tomato sauce 
Beef with savoury sauce 
Ribs of beef 

Fillet of beef with gravy 
Roast beef with potatoes 
Sirloin of beef 
Neats' tongue 
Underdone steak 
English Beefsteak 
Beefsteak with potatoes 
A la mode beef 

VeaL 

Larded veal in g^ravy 
Larded veal with spinage 
Larded veal with soirrel 
Larded veal with endive 

> Veal chops fried cr boiled 



T6te de vean k la vinai- 
grette 

Langue de vean k la 
sauce piquante 

Pieds de vean k la vin^ 

aigrette 

Blanquette de veaa 

Bis de veau 
Fraise de veau 

9. Monton et Ag-> 
neaiL 

Cdtelettes pannes 



Cutelettes en papillote 

Pdtelettos au jkmbon 
ClliTeU« an beunr« dolr 



(Veal chops broiled with 
( sweet herbs 

Veal chops wUl^ ham 

CAlfa brain* fried 



} 



Cdtelettes en paplllottet 

Cotelettes au naturel 

Gigot aux haripots 

Pieds de mouton k la) 
vinaigrette > 

Rognons k la brochette 

Rognons aux truffes 

Rognons sauttfs 

10. VolaUle. 

Chapon au gros sel 

Chapon au riz, Ac. 

Poulet saut^ 

Poulet k la tartare 

Cuisse de poulet en pap 
illote 

Dinde truffle 

Dindonneau 

Poulet aux champig-) 
nous > 

Gapilotade de poulet 

Salade de volaille 

Galantine de volaille 
Poulet truff6 
Filets de poulet 
Canard aux navets 
Canard aux petits pols 
Caneton 

Pigeon k la orapaudine 
Fricass^ de poulet 

IL Olbier. 

Cdtelette de chevreuil 
#ilct de cbevreuil \ 



IxTii. 

(Calfs head with oil and 
( vinegar 

(Calfs tongue with m* 
( voury sauce 

/Calfs feet with oU and 
( vinegar 

(Fricasseed veal nith 
( white sauce • 

Calfs sweet bread 

Calfs fry 

Mutton and Lamb. 

(Chops fried in bread 
( crumbs 

(Chops broiled in paper 
\ with fine herbs 

Chops fried or broiled 

(Leg with gravy and 
( French beans 

(Trotters with oil and 
( vinegar 

Kidneys broiled 

Kidneys with trulBea 

Stewed kidney 

Poultry. 

Capon (boiled) 

Capon with rice 

Chicken in gravy 

Chicken devilled 

(Leg of a chicken in 
I paper, with sweet herbs 

Turkey with truffles 

Young turkey 

(Chicken with mush'* 
I room sauce 

Chicken hashed 

(Cold chicken in sliceg 
( and vinegar 

Brawned fowl 

Chicken with truffles 

Slices of chicken (breast) 

Duck and tymips 

Duck and gr^en peat 

Duckling 

Broiled pigeon 

Fricasseed chicken. 

Game. 

Venison ohops ' 
Pfllet of venisoQ 



Pfrdmof 
Pordreau en sah&ii 

Lifevre 

CJrrt de Hkrre 

Glbelotte de laptn 

Ldpcrau sau^^ an:^ 
champignons 

Bdcasse ' 

B^cassines 

Canard sanvage 

CaUlt 

Ffittiii 

Ortolans 

OxiTes 

Canard sanraM tn sal- 
mU 

12. Poinon. 

Sanmon 

Trulte 

Turbot 

Rale ' 

Morue 

Soles 

Merlan - 

Maquereau 

^perlans 

Alose 

Carrelet 

Honifird 

£crevis9«| 

Huitres 

Broebat 

AngnlUes 



I lB.Leg«iBii. 

Asperges 

Polntes d*aspei^9 
ChooX de Bmxellos 
Ciou-flenr 
Haricots bianes 
Haricdts verts 
Chlcor^e 

Ponunes de terre )i 

maltreid'lidtel 
Petits pois 
^pinards 



uiiBomKmax. 



} 



Pa^vldgfta 

Yo|ing partridges itiyg^ 

Larks. ' 

Hare 

Jngged bare 

Rabbit smothered 

(Young rabbit with 
( mushroom sauce 

Woodcock 

Siiipes 

Wild duck 

Quail 

Pheasant 

Ortolans 

?hru»bM 



n 



I WildauQkjn^Hf^ 
Flah. 

Balnon 

Trout 

Turbot 

Skate 

Cod 

Soles 

Whiting 

Iffackere! 

Smelts 

Sbad 

Flounder 

Lobster 

Cray-fish 

Oysters 

Pi^Q 

£eli 

VegQtablei. 

Asparagus 

Asparagus tips 

Brussels sprouts 

Cauliflower 

French beans (shelled) 

French beans (green) 

Endivo 
(Potatoes sliced, with 
( parsley an4 b«Uer 

Green peas 

Spinage 

Artichokes 



Omelette aux fines horbes Qmelet with street heAl 
Omelette souffl^e Omelet with su^r 

(Euf s poch^s Poached eggs' 

(Eufs sur le plat tViedeggs 

Beignets de pommes, dj^c. Apple Ac. fritters 



Charlotte russe . 

Tartc aux fruits 

Plum poudlng 

Fromage 

Bourre, frals — saltf 

Petits pAtds 

(Sel^e de groseilles ou 
de f ramboises 

^ardines 

Anchois 



I>98S9^ 



} 



Syllabub in light. paM6 

Tarts of various frutti 

Plum pudding 

Cheese 

Butter, fresh— jal^ 

Savoury patties 

(Jellies (currant or raspP 
( berry) " 

Sardines' 

Anohovios 

Dessffft, 



Melon Melon 

Raishi do Fontalnebl^au White grapea 



Peches 

Fralscs 

Ananas 

Figues 

Pruneaux 

Quatre mandiants 

Prunes de Mon^ic^r 

Prunes de reine Claude 

Pommes et poires 

Amandes vcrtcs 

Compote de fruits 

Gelde de groaoilles 

Meringues 

Abricots h, I'e^u do vie 

Biscuits de Beims 

Macarons 

Chrises a Tdau de vie 



16. 9fttim«ai«iUi 
4'Ham]n«. etc* 

Une chemise (d'homme) 

Un cale^on 

UuQ «amisolQ 

pno robe de chambre 

Vn pantalon 

tine oravatte. 



Peaches 
Strawberries 
Pine apples 
Figs 
Prunes 

(Raisins, almonds, nuts, 
I and figs (four beg jars) 

Orleans plums 

G(reen gages 

Apples and pears 

Cfreen almonds 

Stewed fruits 

Currant Jelly 

Trifle cream tarts 

Apricots with brandy 

Sponge cakes 

Macaroons 

Cherries in brandy 

- Men'* caotiiw» 

A shirt 

Drawers 

An under-waistcoat 

A morning-gown 

Trousert .. 

X neck clot4 



xsnd&cofiair* 



Un gilet 

DobImui 

Des chaassettes 

Se raaer 

Un ndcessairs 

Des pantoafl^d 

Dos souliers 

Des bottino^ 

Un ohausso-piecU 

Un parapluie 

17. HablUemtBte 
do Femxnes. 

Une ohemlM 

Unjupon 

Un oorset 

Un lacet 

Une robe 

Des manoliet 

Un fichu 

Un moachoir de poehe 

Dos gants 

Un chftle 

Une dcbarpe 

Un chapean 

Un voilee 

Une matinee 

La coiffure 

Une ombrelle 



A waistcoat 

Stockingsj 

Socks 

To shave 

A dies«lQg^«aM 

Slippers 

Shoes 

Boots 

A shoe-bom 

An umbrella 

Women's 
Clotbefk 

A chemise 

A petticoat 

Stays 

Stay lace 

A gown or dress 

Sleeves 

A neckerchief 

A pooket-handlerohief 

Gloves 

A shawl 

A scarf 

A bonnet 

A veil 

A monilng-gown 

Head-dresg 

Faroaol 



\ 



18. IQsoeUaxieoas Artlclea. 

Du savon Soap 

Une dponge A sponge 

Uno serviette, essule-) . ♦q—.oi 



mains 
Des ^pingles 
De la loie 
Du satin 
Da velours 
De la dentelle 
Chambre k coucher 
Un petit salon 
Un cabinet do toilette 
Lc salon 

La salle)^ manger 
Un rez de chaas^ 
Lea appartements 
|Jnpo^l9 



; 



Mns 

Bilk 

Satin 

Velvet 

Lace 

Bed>room 

Sitting-roora 

A dressing closot 

The drawing'4'oom 

The dining-room 

A ground-floor 

The apartments 



Vn miroir, UQfi f Uim 

Un lit 

Un lit do plumes 

Un matelas 

Un oreillor 

Un traversin 

Los draps 

Une couverture de laine 

Une courtepointe 

Uno bassinoire 

Une table do nult 

Le vase de nuit 

Uno bougie 

Une lampo 

Une voillouse 

Un bain (chaud) 

Des allumettos 

Du charbon 

Da bois 

Un billot de banque 

La chert^— cher 

A bon march d 

Lo bureau do la poste 

La grando posto 

Lo factour 

La porto de lottrea 

Un changeur 

P'n joaillier — un orffevro 

Un marctaand de soieries 

Un marchand de nou- \ 
veautds jT 

pn m^docin 

yn pharmacieu 

Un dentiste 

Une marchande de modes 

Une couturi^re 

Un coiffeur 

Un gantier 

Un patlssler 



A looking-gltM 
Tbe bed 

A feather-bed 

A mattress 

A pillow 

A bolster 

The sheets 

A blanket 

A counterpane 

A warming-pan 

A night table 

Chamber utensil 

A wax caudle 

A lamp 

A night lamp 

A bath (warm) 

Matches 

Coals 

Wood 

A bank note 

Dcamoss — dear 

Cheap 

The post office 

The general post office 

Th^ postman 

postage 

A money changer 

A jeweller or goldsmith 
A silk mercer 

A linen draper 

A doctor 
An apothecary 
A dentist 
A milliner 
A dressmaker 
A hair dresser 
A glover 
A pastry-cook 



19. Railway, Road, Steamboat, A;c. 



Chemln do for 
Yoyagour 
Billet, coupon 
Bagage 
Une malle 

Bagagi» ea fr«ttcbise 
Yoitur<» 
,i«giure 



Railway 
Travellor 
Ticket 
Luggage 
A trunk 

Luggage allowed 
Carriage 
'0t<Vtloa 



Salle d*attent6 

Consigne 

Facteur 

Train, convol 

Embarcadbre, station, ) 
gare ) 

Chevaux 

Ghlen 

Kolti^ prix 

Matin (m.) 

Soir (s.) 

Premiere classe 

Seconde id. 

Troisi^me id. 

Durde du trajet 

Prolongemeut 

Service d'hiver 

Service d'^ttf 

Administration 

Billets d'aller ot de \ 
retour ) 

Trains niixtes 

Trains directs 

Trains omnibus 



IXTRODVCTIOK. 



{ 



Trains express 

Buffet 

Compartiment loutf 

Place rctenue 

Bagagre enregistrtf 

Bulletin de bagage 

Wagons lits 

En voiture I 

*' Fnmeurs " 

^' Dames seulcs '' 

Tranch^e 

Rampe 

Bateau h vapeur 

Bateau k bailee 

Paquebots 

Deux felspar jour 

Deux 'departs par se-) 
maine > 

Premiere Chambre 
Seconde do. 
Nourriture 
Une malle 
Un porteuir 

T^^graphe sous-marin 
^ains de mer < 



Waitirtg roomB 
Cloak-room 
Porter 
Train 

Station 

Horses 

Dog 

Half-price 

Homing 

Evening 

1st class 

2nd do. 

3rd do. 

Time taken 

Extension 

Winter service 

Summer service 

Office 

Return tickets 

Mixed trains 
1st and 2nd class 
Ordinary train 
Express trains (as a rule) 

1st class only 
Refreshment room 
Engaged compartment 
Place taken (engaged) 
Registered luggage 
Luggage ticket 
Sleeping carriages 
Take your seats! 
Smoking carriage 
Ladles only 
Cutting 
Embankment 
Steam-boat 
Screw steamer 
Packet boats 
Twice a day 



Twice a week 

Chief cabin 

Fore cabin 

Living, or provisions 

A trunk 

A porter {not railway) 

Snbmarine telegrapli 

Sto baths t 



Ladooane 


The cnstom-houso 


Un douanier 


Custom-house officer 


ao. Parts of a Town, ftc 


Ville 


Tiarge town or city 


Bourg 


Walled town 


Boulevardi 


Site of old walls, or bul 




warkt 


Faubourg 


Suburb 


Rue 


Street 


Chauss^e 


Causeway 


Chemin 


Road 


Pont 


Bridge 


Bac 


Ferry 


Porte 


Gate 


Port 


Harbour 


Hotel de ville, mairie 


Town-hall 


Place 


Square, open spaee 


l^glise 


Church 


Blbliothbque 


Public library 


Musde 


Museum 


Jardln des plantes 


Botanic garden 


Salle de spectacle 


Theatre, &c. 


Hdpital, Hotel Dieu 


Infirmary 


Hospice 


Asylum 


Fonderie 


Iron-work 


Verrerie 


Glass-work 


21. Days of the Week. 


Dimanche 


Sunday 


Lundi 


Monday 


Mardi 


Tuesday 


Mercredi 


Wednesday 


Jeudi 


Thursday 


Vendredi 


Friday 


Samedi 

22. 


Saturday 


MontliB. 


Janvier 


January 


F^vrier 


February 


Mars 


Blarch 


Avril 


April 


Mat 


May 


Juin 


June 


4uillet 


J»iy 



iN'tttfllDCCttOlC. 



txxt. 



Aoftt (pron. 

Beptembre 

Octobre 

Novembre 

D^cembre 



oo'*) 



August 

September 

October 

November 

December 



24. Caxdlnal Nul^beft. 



23. Seasons. 



Le printemps 
Los semailles 
L'dt^ 

L'automne 
La r^colte 
Los vendanges 
L'hiver 



Spring 

Seed-time 

Summer 

Autumn 

The harvest 

The vintage 

Winter 



Un, une 1 

Deux 2 

Trols 8 

Quatre •• 4 

Cinq 5 

Six e 

Sept 7 

Huit 8 

Neuf 

Dix 10 

Onze 11 

DoUze 12 

Treize 13 

Quatorze 14 

Quinze 15 



Seize 16 

Dix-Bept i.t I? 

Dix-huit I. 18 

DIx-neuf 19 

Vingt ».«! 20 

Trente ii.n 80 

Qnarante **n» 40 

Cinquante.. .....«•... 50 

Soixante 60 

Soixante-dix 70 

Qnatre-vingt 80 

Quatre-vingt-dix 90 

Cent 100 

Mllle 1,000 

Dix Mille 10,000 



26. Familiar Phrases. 



Une demi-douzaine. Half a dozen. 

Qu* est-ce que ccla, Monsieur? What is that, Sir? 

Que dites-Tous ? What do you say ? 

"ss?it.'s^"Mrr'rr """""-*'' "* ""} 1 <•» »<-« ">-!-'•"'> yo-- 

Oh allez-vous ? Where are you going ? 

Que Toulez-vous ? What do you want ? 

Quel est le chemin de Paris? Ayez la bont^ de> Which is the way to Paris? Have the goodness to 



me montrer le chemin, &c.? 

Allez tout droit. 

Toumez k gauche (& droftc). 

Merci — Bien obIig^> 

n fait beau temps. 

Le temps est couvert; il ra pleuvoir, prenez un 
parapluie. 

11 fait mauvais temps ; nons aurons de Torage. 

I^ soleil luit; il fait blen chaud. 

Le soleil est couch€. 

II fait elair de lune. 

II fait un brouillard ^pais. 

Le vent est chang^; or, a chang^ 

11 fait beanconp do poussibre. 

Quelle benre est-il, Monsieur? 

n est environ deux heures — ^Deux heures vont) .-u^ ** » i i. 
soniier. f ^°^^^ ^'^^ ^ ^^o^^- 

Quarter-past two. 

Half-past two. 

Quarter to two. 



tell me the way, &c. 
Go straight on. 

Turn to the left (to the right). 
Thank you. 
It is fine weather. 

> It is cloudy weather, and going to rain ; take ni 

> umbrella. 

It is bad weather; we shall have a storm. 

The sun shines ; it is very hot. 

The sun is set. 

It is moonlight. 

There is a thick fog. 

The wind is changed. 

It is very dusty. 

What o'clock is it. Sir? 



11 est deux heures ufi quart. 

11 est deux heures et demie. 

II est deux heures moins un quart. 

'^mliulel' *'*'^' ^^™"' n««w«r«) molns cinq), pivo minutes to nine. 



II est miai. 



It l8 twelve (noon) 



Mil. 

Ce matin { 6a solr. 

Demain matlu; aprfes dfttnain. 

Hicr : avant hiec 

11 y.^ deux jours. 

Dans buit jours— D'anjonrd'hul en huit. 

Tott§ les jours. 

^'ai.faim(soif; chaud; froid^ 

Que-Toulez-Yoas manger? 

Donnez-moi )i boire. 

Donnez-moi un verre d*eau de vie. 

AppQrtez le diner. 

Ponnez-moi des csof s. 

Yoalez'VouA uue tasse de caf^ (du vin^ de la) 
TiariUe, du jambon, du th^, de I'eau de vie) ? j 

Comment vous portez-voas ? 

Fori bien — I'rfes bien, je vous remercie. 

Jc suis Anglais (Anglaise). 

Parlez-vous Anglais ? 

Soyez le bien-venu. Monsieur. 

Oh demeure Monsieur A. ? 

II demeure dans la rue B. 

Appelez-moi une voiture. 

Vous pouvez allerpar la diligence, oa prendre une) 
chaise de poste. ) 

A quelle heure la diligence i>art-elle d'lclf 

Combien prend-on par place ? 
. Combien prenez-vous ? 

Combien de jours serous notA en route ? 

Quelle route prenez-vous ? 

Quel est le meilleur cfaemiu ^ 

La route qui passe par B. est la plus conrte. 

Combien de C. k D. ? 
'A <iui-ost ce chateau ? 

Quel est le nom de cct endroit ? 

Y-a-t-il des galcries do tableaux? 

Quel magnifique pay sage! 

Comment api)elle-t-on cctte ville ? 

OU nous arr3terons-uous ? 

Quand partirez-vous ? 

Au point du jour. 

A la mar€e. 

Nous allons partir. 

Quand nous embarquons-nous ? 

Combien de temps sorons-nous en mer 

Je me sens mal. 

Je loge & rhotel de C. 

Quel est le meilleur h6te1 ? 

Un diner k table d'hote. 

Un diner seul. 



tKTtlODUCTIOV. 



Tills morning; tills «T«ftill^. 

To-morrow morning ; da)* after. 

Yesterday ; day before. 

Two days ago. 

In a week. 

Every day. 

I am hungry (thirsty; hot; cold). 

What will you eat ? 

Give me something to drink. 

Give me a glass of brandy. 

Bring the dinner. 

Give me some eggs. 

Will you take a cup of coffee (some irlne, tnesit, 
ham, tea, brandy)? 

How do you do? 

Very well, I thank. yoA. 

I am English. 

Do you speak English? 

Sir, you are welcome. 

Where does Mr. A. live? 

He lives in B. street. 

Call a cab. 

You may go by th^ stage eoftch, or take a post 

chaise. 

When does the coach start ? 

What is the fare ? 

What do you charge? 

fiow many days will it take ? 

Which way do you go ? 

Which is the best road? 

The road through B. is the shortest. 

How far from C. to D.? 

Whose seat is this ? 

tVhat is the name of tills place ? 

Are there any pictures to be seen? 

What a beautiful country ! 

What town is this ? 

Where shall we stop? 

When do you sail? 

At day break. 

At high water. 

We are going directly. 

When do we go on board ? 

How long shall we be at sea ? 

1 feel very sick. 

I am staying at the hotel de C. 

Which is the best inn ? ; 

A dinner at the ordinary. 

blnner alone. { 



' Aqdetleh^Tit-eYonlez-yons diucr> At what timedo ypn wish to din«^ 

On a servi. binner is on the table. 

Voulez-vous nn pen de so.upe ? or, de potage ? Will you take soup ? 
^polio,r"' ''''''''''*^' ^^ comincnccml par du| j^^^ j ^^^^^ ^^^^ j ^j^ ^^ ^^^ ^^ 

Pennettez-raoi de voits offrir da boSttf. Allow me to offer yon «om* beef. 

De quel vln voulcz-^ous i What wine will you take ? 

^K'rgogr^'""''''' """' ^'"*'"^' ^° '^**' ^°} ^^"er, bring us a bottle of Burgundy. 

Vous enverrai-Je unc tranche de ce glgot ? fihall I send you a slice of mutton ? 

VouS'scrVlrai-je des legumes ? Will you take some yegelables? 

Vous servirai-je des pommes de terre ? Will you take some potfttoeii ? 

Pas <Iavantagc, je vous roTnereie. No more, 1 thank you. 

Gar9on, changcz cette assiettfi. Walter, change this plate. 

Une cuiller, s'il vous plait. A spoon, if you please. 

Je vous remercjie, c'cst assez. . Thank you, that's enough. 

Mettez Ics verres sur.la table. Put the glasses on the table. 

Apportez-moi an verre d'eau. Bring me a glass of water. 

I ^ajr9,QU, uno bouteiUo do vin ordiuaire. Walter, a bottle of ordinary (claret) wine. , 

Donncz-nous le dessert. Let us have the dessert. 

Voulez-vous avoir la bont^ de'sonner? Be so good as to ring the bellf 

Le t^^ est servi* Tea Is ready. 

Combicn vous dcvons-noas ? What have we to pay ? 

Je desire avoir la note. ' I wish to have my bill. 

Void la note, Monsifeur. Here is the bill, Sir. 

Voici votre argent. Here is your money. 

Pouvons-nous coucher lei? Can we sleep here? 

* J'aimerals niteux une chambre au preniier (au) I should like a rodin Oil the fli-st floor (second floor, 

second, au truisierae). , . ^ JT third floor). 

'VevlHicz me donoer du savob. t want a piece of soap. « 

Les lits sont-lls bien bassln^s ? . Are the beds well warmisd ? 

Les draps sont-ils bien sees ? .• Are the sheets quite dry ? - > 

Apportez-moi encore uiUireillvif. Bring me another pillow. 

A quelle heure voulez-vous que je voui nppelle? When shall I call you? 

Monsieur, Je vous souhaite une bonnaUuft. I wish you good night. Sir. 

Bon jour. Monsieur (Madame, or Mademoiselle). Good morning, Sir (Ma'am, Miss). 

Apportez-moi de Teatt chAudp;   - • ..' Bring me some hot water. 

Apportez-moi mes bottes. . .! .,■ •> Bring me my boots. ..- 

Le de'jeuner est-il pr6t ? Is breakfast ready ? 

Je prendrai du cafe, si vous voulez bien. I will take coffee, if you please. 

II nous faut encore des tartines. We want more bread and butter. 

Une tasse de th^ . A cup of tea. 

Dejeuner h la fourchette. A meat breakfast. 

Volcidelaviande; voicidessaucisseSjdu jambou,") ti««« i-«^ij -♦ i ^ — ^ - v * , 

de la volaille. i * sausages, ham, fowl. 

Avez-vous des chambres k louer ? Have you apartments to let ? 

Meubldes on non meubMes ? Furnished or unfurniihed ? 

Quel est lo prlx dn loycr ? What are the terms? 

Banquicr. A banker. 



lacdv. iii«itot>vottox. 

V««dri«x-Ton.fcllit.e«f M. •onTenln.t } ^K«V«^lSo *'"' *"'* "" *^^ "«>«•*'»' 

N^S^Iant. A merchant. 

OU est le bureau de poste ? Where is the post-office ? 

Je voudrals acheter un ehapeau. I want to buy a hat. 

Je voudrais acheter des souliers. 1 want to buy a pair of shoes. 

Je Toudrais acheter une robe. I want to buy a dress (Iady*s). 

Voulez-vous me raser ? Will you share me ? 

Voulei-Toiis me couper les cheveux? (cftwaujr) •xrin -^« -«♦««. u-«,» 
means horses). . ) ^ill you cut my hair? 

J*ai du linge a laver; laves le arec soin. I have some linen to wash ; wash it carefully. 

Quand me le rapporterez-vous ? When will you bring it home ? 

II faudra que reus rapportiez la note. Bring the bill with you. 

Voulez-Yous quo nous alliong falre un tour de) q,..,, „. .... . ,. , 

promenade ? J ^***" ^« ^^^ * ^•'^ * 

De bien bon cosnr- -Trbs rolontiors — ^Avec plalsir. With great pleasure. « 

Peut-on passer k travers ce champ ? Is there any way across the fields ? 

Quel est ce joli hameau ? What pretty hamlet is that ? 

Ou peut-on lire les joumaux ? Where can we sec the newspapers ? 

On lit les ouvrages periodiques et les joumaux) You may see the periodicals and papers, Ac, at the 
aux cabinets de lecture. > reading rooms. 

Je Tous suis bien oblig^. I am obliged to yon. 

•'' li^ueuT.*^''* '^'^ *"'^ ^^ "^^ ""* "" ''*'" ^*} I P"'«^ » <^«P «' «<>««*» *°d » ^»"» «' "^«^- 

Je suis k Tos ordres ; partons. I am ready ; let us go. 

Je n*ai pas le temps ce soir. I hare not time this evening, 

J'ai besoin d'un cheval de sellc. I want a horse to ride. 

Donnez-lui une mesure d'avoine. Qive him a feed of oats. 

II me fant une belle voiture U quatre roues (pr\ I want a good four-wheeled carriage (or trayellinir 
Toiture de voyage). \ carriage). 

(What is the price ? If the reply is not under- 
Combien demandez-TOUs ? < stood, say, Ecrivez le, sUl vous plait,— Write it 

(^ down, please. 

C*est trop eher. It is too dear. 

Au revoir. Good bye for the present. 

Bon jour. Good^day. 

Bonne unit. Good night. 

Bon soir GoodeTenlng. 

Bon appetit I wish you a good appetite! 

Bonne sant4 Good health U 



B R A D S H A W ^ S 



TRAVELLER'S HAND-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



SECTION I. 

EOUIES TQ AND FROM PARIS, 

IN C0}(NBGTI0N WITH THE CBEMIN DE fSR J>Xf. ifQRP, or Nortlitrii KaUway of 
Ftauce; supplying Calais, Boulogne, Dunkirk, lille (Ghent), arrab, 

AMIENS, ABBEVILLE, ST. QUENTIN, VAJ-ENCIENNES (BRUSSELS, COLOGNE), LAON, 
BEIM8, BEAUVAIS, Ac. i IN THE OLD PROVINCES OF pICAEDY, ARTOIS, FI4NDBRS. 



ROXJTE I. 

CalalQ to Boulogne, AbbevUl«, AmlenB, 
Crell, and Paris. 

. opened thronghout in 1864. Distance, 1 84 mtlcs, 
in 5 to 9 hours. Rail to Bonloffne, Lille, Dun- 
Jierqae, Ac. See Bradshaw'9 Contintntal ffvfcto. 

0ALAI8. 

21 J miles from Dover. 

Population, 58,867 with St. Pierre. 

Hotels.— Terminus Hotel, Qare l^iaritlrae, 
opposite the Steam Packet Pier. Baths. Post and 
Telegraph Office. Custom House. Recommended. 

The Buffet Hotel, a.t the town railway station : 
conveniently situated ; sleeping, refreshments, and 
accommodation at moderate charges. Post and 
Telegraph Office. 

Hotel Mcurice, Rue de Guise ; open for night 
trains and boats; moderate charges. 
• De Flandre; de Londres; du Commerce; de 
Paris. 

Re»<a«m«rt.— Salnsard, Rue de la Cloche; Sau- 
sage, Rue de Guise. 

- Poit O^e(Calais), Rue de Therrae ; at St. Pierre, 
Place do la Tanneric. 

The Railwty Station (Gare Maritime), Donane, 
and Passport Office are on the pier; passports ai*e 
viftf wlthotrt delay, the time kept on all French 
Hnt» 1« 4-ininute8 earlier than London. There is 



another station (Gare Centrale) in the town. 
Passengers landing here, proewdtng direct to 
Marseilles, Brussels, Brindisi;- Cologne, BasTe, (Src, 
should say so; and luggage, if merely going 
across France to Belgium and Germany, should 
be registered in London for examination at the 
end of the Journey. Luggage direct to Paris is not 
examined till its arrival there. If it be more than 
will go nnderthe seat (about 661bs. are allowed) 
It must be booked, or enregistr^, and ticketed, 
two sous being charged. At the journey's end 
hand your ticket to the commissionnairc of your 
hotel, who will clear It fbr you without trouble for 
the usual fee. 

Luggage direct to London i% not examined at 
Dover or Folkestone, but at the Charing pross 
Station. 

Resident Englis/i Consul. — There are -also Ck»isDl« 
for the United States, Belgium, Holland, 40.. 

English (^urch^ in Rue da Moulin. BruM. 
Wesleyan and French Protestant Chapels. Bee 
Bradshate's Continental Guide for particular's. 

Tramway, to Guines (population, 4,500), on the 
road to St. Pol; 6| miles. • '*'• 

^* Chief Objects of Notice. — Th§ .Citadel 
— Hotel de Ville — Museum— HOtel de Guise^ 

This port and fortified town is in a ^^t*" corn 
and flax country, on the Pas-dc Calais (whigh 



r 



fittADSHAW^S ILLtr^tltATBto 



[Sec. 1 



Englithmen call th« Straitf of Dover), one and 
three qiarter hours* pasaage firom Dorer, to which 
it is Joined by the electric telegraph. It appears to 
have been founded by the Counts of Flanders in 
the 11th century; and was chosen as his place of 
embarkation by Louts the Dauphin, when the mal- 
contents, under King John, offered him the crown 
of England. Subsequently to the battle of Cr^cy, 
in 1846, it was taken after 1 1 months' siege rEustace 
St. Pierre leading the defenders), by the English; 
who kept it till the Duke of Guise recaptured it in 
Mary*8 time, 1558, to the profound mortification of 
the Queen and the nation. " If you open my body 
after my death/' she said, " you will find Calais 
written on my heart.'* 

Calais forms a long square, formerly hemmed 
in by ramparts now cleared away ; it is defended 
by several exterior forts. Cardinal Richelieu's 
strong Citadel^ to the west, commands the whole, 
and it is classed as a fortress of the first rank. 
To the north are the Floating Baain, the Paradis 
Basin, and thePort d'Echouage. The inner ^arftotir 
is the mouth of the river de Hames, enclosed 
between piers, one of which is three-quarters of a 
mile long, with a pillar on the spot where Louis 
XVIII. set his foot in 1814. The inscription itself, 
which was meant **pour en perptftner le souvenir" 
of this event, is now hidden away under a staircase 
in the Museum. The harbour was deepened in 
1843, and a new outer harbour, allowing steamers 
to enter at any hour, was opened in 1889. The 
entrance (N.W. by S.E.) consists of a main channel 
(83ft. at high water), 894ft. wide. The avant-port 
is 1,800ft. by 650ft. The quay on the N.E. side, 
1,980 yards long, is devoted to the mail and pas- 
senger service; boats can load or embark there 
at any hour. Passengers step out of the boats 
into the trains by a covered passage. A Oate^ 
built by Richelieu in 1665, called the Porte du 
Havre, which figures In Hogarth's picture of the 
** Roast Beef of England," has been removed. 

Calais is well-built, the houses chiefly of bri^, 
and uninteresting. In the Grand Place, or Pla^e 
dn Befflroi, are the Lighthouse, or old look-out 
tower; and the H6tel de Ville, with buats of St. 
I^ierre, the Due de Guise, and Richelieu, in f^ont. 
Library of 10,000 volumes and HSS. This Due 
'<«« Guise, irho Is celebrated wttbo*' dtfiverer " of 



Calais, is here confounded with his son, sumamed 
Balaf^. The Church, built by the English, is a 
cross-shaped Gothic structure, with a good spire- 
tower and pinnacles, and contains 11 chapels, a 
fine marble altar, and a painting by Vandyck. St. 
Pierre is the old Basse Yille, or I^ower Town, 
to the south-east (now united to Calais), where 
many hands (English and others) are employed in 
the tulle and lace factories. 

At the Museum (open three days a-week, from 10 
to 5) is the car of Blanchard, the aeronaut, who, 
with Dr. Jeffries, safely crossed the channel in 1785 ; 
also several portraits, autographs, and pietnres, in- 
cluding Corregrgio's **Vierge au Bandeau," given 
to the town by the Princess of Canine (Lucien 
Bonaparte's wife), who was bom here in 1788. In 
Cour de Guise is the old Hdiel, which belonged to 
the merchants of the wool staple, and where 
Henry VIII. lodged. There arc a large barrack, a 
salle de spectacle, or theatre, a navigation school, 
Ac. ; and good Baths, to which reading, dancing, 
and other rooms are attached; subscriptions, 10 fr. 
a month ; a single bath, 1 fr. 

La Place, the astronomer, and Hollier,the travel- 
ler, were natives. They show Sterne's room at 
the hotel Dessin. A canal is cut to the river Aa, 
which goes to St. Omer, past the Field of the Cloth 
of Gold. The fishermen, the most interesting 
portion of the population, live In the suburbs of 
Courgaine. Trade in lace, fish, eggs, spirits, salt. 
Ship-building, fiax-splnning, iron-founding, and 
machine-making are carried on. Chalk abounds 
all the way to Clermont, where the gypsum begins. 
At Sangatte, G miles from Calais, the International 
Tunnel to England is intended to commence, if ever 
the project is realised. 

From Calais (QualX the first station is Calaifl- 

Vllle, or St. Pierre-l^B-Oalais, population, 

ab9nt 40,000 (1,500 English), the birth-place of the 
famous Eustache St. Pierre, the defender of Calais 
in the siege of 1847 (above mentioned) against 
Edward III. ; who was so incensed by the long 
resistance he experienced here, that he was about 
to put him and five other leaders to death, when 
they were saved by the intercession of Queen 
Philippa— the subject of a well-known picture. 
Here is TriHilf Church for the English residents. 



Route 1.] 



BAND-BOOK tO FRANCE. 



Lace making is largely carried on here, and there 
are large talle factories employing 10,000 hands. 

Frethun (s miles); Cafflers (H miles). 

MarqulBe-Rinxent (6 miles), on the Slack, 
has coal mines and marble quarries. Population, 
8,511. Near it are the quarries of Ferques and 
Landretun; with some remains of Beaulieu Abbey 
(founded 1150), and megalithic stones. At Amble- 
TSDSE, to the west, James II. landed, in his flight, 
1688. 

Wlmilld (6 miles), where the two unfortunate 
aeronauts, Rosier and St. Remain, are buried. In 
trying to cross the Channel, 1780, they fell from a 
height of 8,000 feet. Lower down the Wimereuz 
is the small port of the same name. 

Hence through a flat, sandy, and marshy soil to 

BOTn.OaN£-SUB-H£B, 

2£| sea miles from Folkestone, from which there is 
daily service by steamers running in connection 
with the tidal trains. (See Bradshaw's Continental 
Guide.) Distance from Boulogne to Paris, about 
158 miles; time, 4 to 8 hours. There are three 
stations; Boulogne-Quaif Boulogne-VIIle, and 
Bonlogne-Tintellcrles. The Dover-Calais trains 
which call at Boulogne only stop at the latter. 

Population, 45,205 (one-tenth English). 

Hotels.— Grand Hotel Christoland Bristol. A 
large hotel, well situated, and very good. 

Hotel dn Pavilion Imperial. 

Des Bains et de Belle Vue; first-class hotel for 
families and gentlemen. 

Hotel de Folkestone, (English), well situated, 
near the Casino, very good. See Advt. 

Hotel Dervaux,78 to 81, Grand Rue, and 24, Rue 
des Vieillards, first-class hotel deservedly recom- 
mended. 

Brighton and Marine Hotel, opposite the bathing 
establislmient. 

Hotel Menrice et de rUnlvers, 26, 28, and 85, 
Hue de TEcu. 

Bedford Hotel, near the Bathing establishment, 
the Jetty, and the sands. 

Hotel d*Angleterre. A. Louis, proprietor. Well 
situated, near the steamers and railway station. 

Hotel de Lnxeqibonrg; Windsor; de Flandre. 



Berrey's Hotel and Boarding House, ftne de 
Boston. 
Buffet at the station. 

Beitaurant Parisien, 6, Rue Thurot. Cafes.— 
Grand Caf^ de Boulogne, and Caf^ Wallon,in Rue 
Adolphe Thiers; Caf€ Phenix, 59, RuedeV^Cu; 
Caf^ Veyez, 1, Grand Rue. 

English Libbart and Reading Roous.->- 
Merrldew's, Rue Victor Hugo, depdt for the sale 
of Bbadshaw's Guides and Hand-Books, 

Letters of enquiry respecting houses and apart- 
ments may be addressed to the Comiti de Publicity. 

Post Office and Telegraph Office^ 12, Rue du Pot 
d'Etain. 

Resident English Vice-Consul. 

Latitude of south-west Jetty 50* 44'N., long 
1* 35'E. High water at fUU and change at l\\ 
hours; rise 20 to 25 feet. Mean temperature, 
winter, 87" ; summer, 67*. 

Landing baggage and taking to rail, up to 241b8., 
60c.; above, Ifr. Passing It through the Customs 
50c. each. Tramway to the town. 

The distance between London and Paris by this 
route Is 28 miles shorter than by way of Calais 
(with 29 miles of sea), the conveniences for landing, 
Ac, being equally good. A low-water landing 
stage is completed; and the rail brought to the 
qaay, in Cap^cure suburb, where passengers land 
and proceed direct to Paris. Nearly all the 
express trains from Calais to Paris also call here. 
Passengers by the quick through trains arc now 
not examined till tlieir arrival at the London or 
Paris terminus. Those going on to Marseilles 
should declare to that effect, to save delay at 
Paris. Paris time, 9^ minutes before London. 

The English residents number over 4,000, besides 
the large number of English visitors. 

There are three English Churches, a Wesleyan 
Chapel, Scotch Services, and a French Protestant 
chapel. See Bradshaw's Continental Guide. 

Races in August. 

10* Objectsof Notice. — Ch&tean, Ildtel de Yille, 
Museum, Blblioth^que, Tintelleries Gardens, 
Napoleon Column, Fishermen's Chapel. 

Boulogne, styled mr-J/ier, to distinguish it from 
the Boulogne near Paris, is a sous-pr^fectnrp 



BRA1>8HAW*8 iLLUSTftATKD 



[Sec. i. 



XdepMtiQ«ni Pat-ile-CaUtt), port, mittury post of 
the second class, and packet station, on the ChaDnel, 
112 miles from London. In spite of some tbonsands 
of his countrymen who live here, an Englishman 
feels himself at once in a foreign country ou land- 
ing, and his first walk up the town is like a scene 
in a play. The entrance to the harbour lies be- 
tween two wooden piers or jetties, at the mouth of 
the Lianc, 2,200 feet and 1,640 feet long, which 
lead tip to the Port and Floating Basin, the Port 
heing in the channel of the river. Th<i Basin was 
made by Napoleon I., 1804, to hold his flat-bottomed 
transports for conveying his troops to England. 
Above it are three bridges, beyond which theLiane 
expands into something like a lake. The deep-sea 
Harbour of 400 acres, begnh 1878, at CbAtillon, 
has a packet Quay in the middla. Near the 
Fish Market and Baths is a atatae of Jenner; 
with another of Saavage, who is claimed by the 
French as the inventor of the screw for steamers. 

Boulogne was called €ft$oriaatm Boaonia by the 
Romans, after B<Mionia(nowB<riogna) in Italy,wbere 
its founder was bom. They used it as a military 
port, and hwl% a lighthouse here (the TowdTOdre), 
which was carried away by the sea, 1644, except 
some traces near the Batkt. Attila attacked it, as 
did the Northmen, in the 9th century; and Henry 
Till, took it, 1M4-H>n6 of his knights (bnried at 
Bardres, in Kent) carrying off its gates, with a 
famoos Imaga of the Vii^in firom Notre Dame, 
which was afterwards returned, bat destroyed with 
the cathedral at the Bevolution. Hence the old 
signs of Bull and Gate (Boulogne Gate) and Bull 
and Month (Boulogne MonthX in London. Edward 
YL gave it np to the French six years later. 
Napoleon intended to invada England from here, 
hut never ventured out of port. 

Boulogne is divided into liaata and Basse Ville 
(Upper and Lower town); the former, on the hills, 
being the oldest. Here are the Chateau^ fornierly 
Yauban's Citadel, now turned into barracks; and 
the old walls now forming a pleasant promenade, 
from which you may catch a glimpse of Dover. 
Louis Napoleon was, at first, ccmfined in the 
Chftteau after his unsuccessful attempt of 1846, 
when with a tame eagle on his fist, he landed here 
afanost alone, from one at the Oeneral Steam 
Navigation Company^a boats. The best and newest 



iMMsesare at Tin<eUeries,on the north, where most 
of the English residents live. Here are large and 
beautiful gardens, where the bands play. Of the 
gates only three are left— Porte dcs Dunes (the 
principal one), Porte Gayole (13th centuryX and 
Porte Nenve (erected 1632). On the Esplanade, 
near it, is a statue of Henri II., by David. Water 
is supj'lied by 17 fountains and a reservoir. Lon- 
guety's large ccmeut works arc here; also foundries 
and a large flax mill. 

Among tba chief buildings are, Scire Jktme 
Chttrek, a Grecian pQe, with a cupola built 1827, on 
the site of the cathedral; chi^y by Abb^ Haff- 
reingne. It has two towers, a dome (with a fine 
view), and a rich shrine and altar. The bishop's 
palace is now a scbooL In this part also is the 
Hdtel de Ville, 1734, with an old Btjffroi, or belfry 
tower, near it, 140 feet high, on the »tc of a ca&tle 
of the ancient Connta of Bontogne, or Bonillon, 
the last of whom was Charles the Bold. 

The Muteum. in Grande Rue, has a collection of 
arms, coins, Roman, and other antiquities, and is 
open in summer, six, and in winter, four days 
a-weck. Among the coins, notice a medal (now 
exceedingly rare) struck by Napoleon, bearing the 
vain-glorious inscription '•'^Prappet a Londrts^ 1804," 
but really struck at Paris. The Public Library 
(Biblioth^qne), above the Museum, contains 50,000 
volumes and 800 MSB., some being iBuminated. 

There are also a Palais de Justice; hospitals; 
barracks; a college and many French and English 
schools ; a house in Rue dc Chfitcan, replacing one 
In which Le Sage (the author of Gil Bias) died; and 
a Theatre in Rue Monsigny, on the site of the 
Cordeliers' convent. Campbell, the poet, died in 
Rue St. Jean. The handsome new Bath$ (Etablisae- 
men I de* Bains) have dancing, music, billiard, and 
resding-roomsattached; and an aqnarinm and fine 
gardens. The Humane Society was fonnded by- 
an Englishman. Dickens in -18M occupied Yilla 
des Moulinenx, in Haute Yille. At the Cenaetcry 
on the St. Omer roadi Sir Harris Nicholas, BasU 
Montagu, and Sir W. Ouseley are buried. 

The Sapoleon Cohnnn, one mile out of the town, 
was begun 1804, by the Grande Armtfe, and finished 
by Loois XYlH-i a itatne of Napoleea waa pat up, 



Route I. J 

1841. It Is IM feet high, IS ^Q^t diameter, ^Hth i, 
staircase within, and commands a fine prospect. 
Beyond this is a Chapel containing ex voto offerings 
of tlie fisliermen, who form a distinct class here, as 
elsewhere, and own above 250 boats. 

In the neighbourhood are Mont Lambert, Mont 
Oiitreau, Mont St. ifitienne, and other points of 
view; remains of a Roman road to Wissant, the 
ancient Porttts Itius; the gardens at Denacre, and 
the chateaux of Cregni, Colombert, and de la Co- 
cherie; Portel; the botanic gardens of Mont PeM; 
the quarries of Marquise and Ferquos. A good 
mineral spring on the Wimille road. The Roth- 
schild Convalescent Hospital is on the coast. 
Leaving Boulogne, you ascend the Liane, to 
Pdilt de Briques (4 miles). Beyond this is 
(,'locheville, where Napoleon once lodged. Next 
comes Hesdigneul, where the branch line to St. 
Omer (page 11) turns up the Liane past Samer 
(population 2,130), a picturesque spot, where several 
English families live, among remains of an old 
Abbey. 
Keufchfttel iH miles) ; and 
Staples (8^ miles), a decayed fishing port, on a 
sandy plain, at the Canche's mouth, which the 
Romans used, having some good old houses,' and 
remains of a cliatean, built 1160. Population, 3,816. 
The viaduct across the river is 984 feet long. The 
fiat, marshy sea border of this part of Boulonnais 
was in old times appropriately called Marquenterre. 
Branch of 6| miles to Beutin Hesdln and 
Montrenil, as below, and St. Pol. 
[M mtreuil-Bur-Mer (fi miles east), a sous-pre- 
fecture of S,608 sottls, and fortified town of the 
second class, on a hill by the Ganche, where 
Cesar built a fort, called Vinacum. It was re- 
built 87l!>, by Heltgaut or Hergot, along with 
the abbey church and castle, and called 
Moncuteriolum^ whence comes the modem 
name. A large Citadel^ with a view of the 
river and flat sea-coast, replaces the castle, of 
wliich the gate towers are left; and S. Saulve's 
Abbey is now the Ildtel de Ville. The peaches 
are celebrated. 
Rail to ^rek-SUr-Met (see below). 
fiesdln (22 miles from Abbeville, 29 from St. Pol 
by rail), in department Pas-de-Calais, on the 
Cdnche, was founded (1544) by the Dukes of 



HAND-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



i 



1 



Savoy, in the midst ot a beantlfiil country, flat, 
but well wooded and cultivated. The air is 
healthy; there is good fishing. Hotel de Ville. 
Abb€ Prdvost was a native. Population, 8,409. 
Near it are traces of Old Hesdin, or Hidimum, 
From Blangy-SUr-Teriaolse, a station near 
Hesdin, it is only a short distance to 

Agincourt, or Azikcode, in the old pro- 
vince of Picardy, a smail village, with traces 
of a castle, 16 raiieB from Cr^cy, and equally 
memorable for a great tietorp gained by 
Henry V., 35th October, 1415, with 9,000 
men, agahist a French force of about 55,000« 
chiefly by means of hlsarchers, with their cloifa-^ 
yard shafts, stationed in a wood still here. 
Shalispere's Henry y. speaks of a,400 '^knlghtSf 
esquires, and gallant gentlemen " who fell, 
besides others. Fluellen, In that play, is the 
David Gam, or Squinting David, of Welsh his- 
tory, who told the king on this occasion, after 
counting the enemy, that ** there were enough 
to kill, enough to make prisoners, and enough 
to run away." This victory left Henry V. 
master of the best part of France. 

FiiUGKS (3 miles from this), under a slope, has a 
mineral spring. At 19 miles beyond is St. Omer 
(see Route 2). 

Rail continued to St. Pol (page 15), 80 miles.] 

Rang-Fliers-Yerton (7 miles). Rail to 
Berck-SUr-Mer, with two stations, a healthy 
little bathing-place on the coast (firm, smooth 
sands, and several Hotels, cheap, and lately much 
frequented by families); and to Hesdin, beyond 
which lies Agincourt. 

Bue (10 miles), in department de la Somme, is 
reached after crossing the Authie, and has the 
Chapelle du St. Esprit^ 13th to 16th centuries, With 
a front richly sculptured, carved pillars, kc. It is 
still a place of pilgrimage, and stands on a little 
stream which runs up lo the Jleld of Cricy (see 
page 7), a few miles east; and Monties foiest, 
where Charles, sou of Francis I., died of '.he 
plague, 1546. 

NoyelleS (7 miles). Branch Rail of 6 miles to 

[St. Valery-dur-Somme, a small bathing' 

place, from which William the Conqueror i 
to England in 1066. popvUation, 8,541. 



f 



6, 



BRADSHAW'S ILLUSTRATED 



[Sec. 1. 



the fishermen's Chapel and the ruins of Toar 
de Harold. An oyster culture here. Hotel. — 
Do France. Cateux, >vith good sands and 
three hotels, Is near it. Another branch runs 
to Le Crotoy, a small bathing-place, also in 
the embouchure of the Somme.] 
From Noyelles it is 8f miles past Port-le-G rand to 

ABBEVILLE. 

Hotels.— TSte do Bosuf ; Station Bufet. 

A sous'pr^fecture and large fortified town, of 
19,581 inhabitants, on the river Somme, in depart- 
ment Somme, and in the old province of Picardy, 
about 18 miles from the sea. Under the name of 
AbbatU Villa, it belonged to St. Riquier's Abbey; 
and was given up to the English as part of King 
John*8 ransom, after the battle of Cr^cy; but it 
soon returned to the possession of its own sovereign. 
The Germans held it 1870-1. 

Some of the streets are pretty good, but the 
greater part are old-fashioned, narrow, and ill- 
paved. Its houses are chiefly brick, with a few 
stone buildings, and several ancient-looking ones, 
of wood. Trees are planted on the ramparts, but 
the view is not very enticing; yet at one time its 
reputation as an agreeable resort drew many per- 
sons of rank hither, whose houses have now 
disappeared. Some traces of the castle of the 
Counts of Ponthieu are seen in the prison. Here 
Hugh Capet, the founder of the Capets, once 
resided. It has an old salt-house, once used for 
the gabelle, and a public Library oi 16,000 volumes. 
At the latter are busts of natives (Sanson the 
geographer, Millevoye the poet, Lesucur the com- 
poser), and a copy of the Gospels, in gold letters, 
on purple vellum, which Charlemagne gave to 
St. Riquier^s Abbey. Statue of Lesueur on the 
Place d'Armes. 

At the Boucher de Perthes Museum is a fine 
collection of spear-heads, hatchets, animal remains, 
and other marks of pre-historic ages, discovered 
in the valley of the Somme, chiefly by the eminent 
man whose name it bears. 

But the Gothic Cathedral of St. Vul/ran is the 
most remarkable object. It has two towers, 171 
feet high, in its noble west front, built by Cardinal 
d'Amboise, in the flamboyant style of the 16th cen- 
*"ry, and de^orat^d witl^ niclfcd figures of saints. 



The triple portal is enriched with carvings of the 
apostles, the Annunciation of the Virgin, Ac. The 
arches of the nave aro also good, but the rest of 
the building is inferior. Other churches are— St. 
Gilles, 15th century; St. S^pulcrc, 15l1i century, 
stained windows ; St. Jacques, restored, style 14th 
century; St. Pierre, rebuilt, Benaissance; St. 
Paul, bas-relief in wood painted and gilt. 

Manufacture det Rames (velvets, carpets), first 
established by Colbert. 

[A short line opened in 1888 runs through Ch^py 
to Eu and Trrfport : — 

Eu, a small town near Tr^port, which is its port. 
It has a picturesque Church restored by Louis 
Philippe, in which the Ck)nqueror married 
Matilda; some biscuit and other mills; and 
the Ch&teau <f ^u, the noble seat, first of the 
Dukes of Guise, and then of Louis Philippic 
who here received Queen Victoria, 1848. The 
Ch&teau with its 300 rooms stands In n vast 
park, and is not now occupied by the Orleans 
family. It has stables for 130 horses. One 
building is styled the Pavilion of La Grande 
Mademoiselle (Mademoiselle de Montpensier). 
It is closed in the absence of the family, now 
in banishment. Population, 4,698. Hotel,—' 
Du Cygne. 

Le Tr^port, a growing watering place at the 
mouth of the Bresle. Population, 4,569. 
Church of the 16th century. There is a larg^ 
Etablissement des Bains, and Casino. A 
flight of nearly 400 steps leads to the new 
quarter of Tr^port-Terrasse. Hotels. — De la 
Plage; de I'Europe; de France. 

Bail to Paris, 115 miles, vid Bu, GamachOB, 

Longroy, Aumale (below), Abancourt» 
St. Omer-en-Clian8B^e, and Beauvais. 

From Eu to Abbeville, 21^ miles by rail. 

Aumale (halfway between Amiens and Rouen 
on the old road), pleasantly seated on the Bresle, 
gives title to the Ducd*Aumale, and has two 
columns near the bridge where Henry IV. was 
wounded on his way from Rouen. The old fort 
stood about a dozen sieges. On the north side 
are some useful mineral waters; andtheruli)s 
of 4uchy Abbey are not far off. 



B 



ct 



(p 
k 

CO 

p« 
n 



a 



HAND-BOOK TO F&AKCE. 



Boute I.] 

To Ault, or Bonrg d'Anlt by road (5 mUesX 
a pleasant spot with good bathing, and hotels. 

At 18| kil. further is Dieppe (see Route 8.)] 

[From Abbeville, on the rail to St. Pol, we pass 

St. RiQDiEB (6 miles oast-north-east^ and the re- 
mains of its abbey, founded by Dagobert, In the 
7th century ; enlarged by Charlemagne, and 
called Gentule, ftrom its hundred towers ; now 
a college. The Church, partly restored, is 
worth notice for its beautiful f^ont, full of 
niches and carvings, as well as for its carved 
stallf , iron gates, and curious frescoes (of the 
16th century) in the treasury, including the 
Danoe of the Three Dead and Three Living. 
An old belfry and remains of the great town 
walls are seen. 

From Abbeville, Oorrespondance for 

Cr^C!f-«ll-POIltllleu (10 miles north-east), in 
a isrea^ where the Black Prince (1846) 
defvrtad tlie I^vim^ 30,000 being slain. The 
walls of t4i0 wiiftiifld In which they say 
Edward III. stood to wateh the limtUe, as 
related by Froissart, are crvwAed wifli mhms 
of English visitors to this famoBaaiMlO 
The line ascends the Somme, after lesvlag 
Abbeville; the next station to which is 

Pont-B^myf (5 miles), which has a mined 
castle; then 

Longpr^ (5 miles). Here are two branch lines 
— one way, to DoilllexiS (page 8) and B^tbUie 
(page 12) ; the other to Qamaclies, Tr^pOTt, and 
Eu (see page 6). At Gamaches, a line turns off to 
Abancourt, on the Amiens and Rouen line. Aban- 
court is on a line towards Beauvais, which forms 
part of a direct route from Tr^port to Paris. 

Hangeit (4 miles), near which is the camp' of 
I'Etoile, an old Roman fort. The next is 

pieqnigliy (5 miles), and its Aid castle, best 
known for the treaty signed here between Edward 
IV. and Louis XI., in 1475. 

Allly (3 miles) belonged to a noble family of that 
name, two of whom (according to Voltaire), father 
and son, taking opposite sides, fought hand to hand, 
at tha battle of Ivry. The next stations are 

preiiU-l^iUnieni and JMit I^ocb. Theq 



A1IIBN8. 

104 miles from Calais, 81 miles from Farif. The 
morning train from Calais and Boulogne afforda 
time to breakfast and see the CathedraL Hera 
Gambetta descended in a balloon by which he 
escaped from Paris, October, 1870. It WM 
occupied by the Germans in November, after the 
defeat of the army of the^orth by Mantenfl'el. 

Hotels.— Du Rhin, Place St. Denis, close to the 
railway; one of the best in the town, highly recom- 
mended. 

De France et d'Angleterre, highly recommended; 
omnibuses from the station. 

De rUnivers, finely situated. BMffet at station. 

Post Officb.— Rue Dumeril. 

Tklbgbaph at the station, and at 57, Boulevard 
du Mail. 

CABS.^Oue franc the course. 

t^ Objects of Noticb.— Cathedral— H6tel de 
VUie-Bibliothbquc— the Ilautoye. 

Population, 83,654. A large, fortified, and very 
old town, the capital of departmentiSomme (formerly 
of PJcardy), seat of a cour nationale (assize court), 
tribunal, college, and bishopric, on the river Somme, 
which brides itself in its course here into eleven or 

the manufacturing 




The Spaniards toek It hy i 

the Peace qf Amiens was signed I 

The streets and houses are regular; the largest 
place or square is the March^ aux Herbes (herb 
market), which extends about 145 yards by 48. 
Good walks are laid out on the old fortifications; 
but the best is the ffautaye promenade, which is 
planted, and set off with a large piece of water. In 
Place Longueville is a beautiful Fountain. 

The early pointed Gothic CaMff<ira/ (Ndtre-Dame 
d* Amiens), r/glise ogivale par excellence, one of 
the finest in France, was built between 1330 and 
1288, by Robert de Luzarches. Length, about 
470 feet; height of spire, an elegant one, 425 feet; 
the nave, 45 feet broad, is of the great height 
of 141 feet, and is supported by above 120 delicate 
pillars, some of which sound like a bell when 
struck. But the facade, flanked by two towers, 
and pierced at the base by three deep portals, is f^- 
finest part. It has a circular window above 



d 



BnibSHJLW^B tLLtrSTBATlSO 



[Sec. 1. 



the whole is marked by it t^rofusion of tracery, 
bas-reliefsj^ tltehed figures, inclbdtng the Last 
Jadf^fhtot, the Virtnes And Vices, thi Ifonths a&d 
ftttRSons, the Massabre of th« Innocents, Ac. Notice 
ils^ thd'clrculht fr«fte*y, the AH* windows (hot 
itainift), the tombs of th^ founders, Geoffroy d'Ett 
*nd Cardinal Hemart, the carved stalls and pulpit, 
and the monament of the Enfant Plcureur fweep- 
Ihg"' clilld). It hfti lately undergone rfestoratlon. 
The Churches of 8t. Clermain, St. Remi, and 8t 
Leu, all deserve notice. 

'PM ladttlde rule, built by Henry IV., stands on 
arcades, and has some pictures, with the rootn 
where the Peace of Amiens was signed. The public 
Library (Blbliothfequc) is a large building in the 
Ionic style, with A good coUcifction of 60,000 Vols., in- 
cluding 673 vols, of MSS, The handsome Miueum 
de Picardie, on the site of the Arsenal, has some 
paintliig»aiid antiquities. Other buildings are— 
tlie Prefecture; the Lyo^e, or college; com 
market; Citadel; jardin dei plantes (botanic 
^rdon); hospttaHfat.CharleB; cavalry bfurracka. 

Peter the Hermit, Ducange, the poot Grosset, and 
Delanibre, the astronomer, were bom here. • 

English Church Service ootasionally. See 
BradsJUmfg Obnlinehfat CfniOB. 

fkiSfe tlli» Outer eMiile RnU l^>iind Piiri» goes oif 
%o Chiiluhs «nd* Rotieii. Tbwards Rouen it passes 
by Baleuz (a branch to Oonty), Poix (see page 
33), Abi^court <oQ .the Tr^port line, see page 6) ; 
SerQIMnx, Mont^rollier and branch to Clares 
(see page 33); Darnetal and Rouen (see page 29). 
Towards Chalons it -passes to OalUancOlurt, 
Obaulliei (on the Picardy line), Ham and Terg- 
nier (seepage SO), Laon (see page 98),Ohalons (sec 
page 236). This is the line which is traversed by 
ti.e direct express trains from Calais to BftBlO. 

From her«3 an alternative line to Paris of about 
92 miles is open; via Saleux, Conty, Cr^vecoeur 
(page 26), Beauvais (page 25^ Mcru, Chambly, 
Persan-Beaumont, and thence onward. 

There is also a line (46^ miles) through Mout- 
didlcr (below) to Compifegne (page 18.) 

•CDouUens (18} miles north) has a good church, 

, , |ind one of Vauban's best constructed fortresses. 

• Population, 4,631. HoUh.—XiQ% Bons Eulans; 

de I'Kuropc. tt can be reached by direct rail, 

•a Candple*, or by branch rail, via tiOn^r^ 



(page 7). A connectioii U also open wltb Bt, 
Pol (21 miles) and Arras (22 miles).j' 

Loogaean (^1 miles). 

Bovei (H milM), on the Noye, .wliert Di« Avre 
joins it. There are remains of Its old Cfitle. 

Here the line from Amiens (61 miles) pacts off 
to Crepy-cn-Valois (page $2\ via Horeull and 
Montdidler. 

[Uoreull (5 miles east), op the Ayre, or Avre, 
has paper and stocking factories, and the chA- 
teau of Margaret de Rong^. Near it* on a high 
bill, is the FollevilU Tovctr^ sometimes called 
BeauToir, because of the fine view it commands. 
It ha« a very striking appearance, and 
stands above 100 feet high. The ehapel re- 
mains, having the marble ^figie* ef Raonl do 
Launey (and his wife), viceroy of Naples, with 
a chain round it, similar to one given him by 
Louis XI. at the taking of Quesnoy. 
Montdidler, a sous-pr^fectui-e of 4,617 souls, 
in department Somme, And a station dta the 
Picardy rail, on a hill by the t>om. It was a 
seat of the SCerovingian kings, and has re- 
maina of its walls, with many old housel'^d 
bnlkUngi 111 Itt narrow itreeta. St. Pierre> 
Church, thoagh largA and ugly, hftA a eirved 
porch and durloos •0ifM of ond of Its early 
opnnts, Raoul 11. In t^Q porch of St. Svpul- 
chre*s stands the tomb of another Raoul, as old 
as 1074; and its pulpit deserves notice. At 
the Hotel do VlUe, in the belfry, is a niched 
figure, called Jean Duqucsne, which strikes 
the hours. The ancient Bailliage is turned into 
tlie law court, or Trlbuual, where several 
pieces of tapestry are to be seen. The College 
and Hospital are both large buildings. 
It was an Aubry de Montdidler who was mur- 
dered in the forest of Bendy, by liaOfetM; the 
murder being disoovtred by ih* tietlm^t dog«- 
the dog of Montargis. JS9Ul9.'^l>% QwAi\ dn 
Grenadier.] 
Allly-BUr-Noye (6f miles), on the Noye. 
BreteuU-VUle, 4 miles by branch rail from 
BreteuU Junctioil (104 miles), at the head of the 
Koye, and takes its name from the Roman Brantuf- 
pansiiim (| mile south-east), where colnst &^.| have 
been discovered, and which was destroyed in the 
5th cehtuf\'. tt camelnto notice aTteV Si. Maf ie*f 



V 



Aoute l.J 

Abbey waa founded, 1049 ; yr&8 fortified ; taken by 
the English ; and belonged to the Montmorencies 
and others. The church is as old as 1 226. Popula- 
tion, 5,108. Hotel— ^i. Nicholas. 

fit JU0t (8| milas), nt the bead of the Avre. 
Here the Picardy and Fiander$ Boil goes o£f v0 
MuiUdidicr (page 8), Roye (page U), CliaulneB 
on the Outer Girdle line (page 8), P^ronne (page 
1ft). to fil>e)X7 and Cambrai; and aUoto Hnvhy- 
Co/ide\ for Beauvais. 

Olermont (Otoe), 8^ miles, a sons pr^foctare 
of 6,017 souls ; was bm*nf by tile English 1330 ; and 
has • famous proftpeot«f' the ValleeDoree, on the 
hill oy-cr tfae.Bresehe, from the Chatellier prome- 
nade, eioseto the old Ceutle, now a central Honse of 
I>eteiitij[>n for women. Here Philippe le Bel was 
born, it once belonged to Robert, sou of 8t. Louis, 
who, mari-ying a dame de Bourbon, then a small 
lief in the centre of Franoe, first brought that illus- 
trious name Into the royal line. Another seigneur 
waa ihe accommodathig hnsband of La Belle 
Gabrielle, who waa married to her by Henry IV., 
on condition of never seein ^her after the cere- 
mony Notice the old Church and the Hotel de Ville, 
both splfe buildings; also a museum of g^iic^ulture 
and geology; with a. library "of 6,000 volumes,' 

. Cherries and other fruit are abundant here. At 
St. Felix fossil shells arc found. ffotel.—Dcs deux 
Kp<?es. There is a connection, t'taLaBue, with 
Uochy-Conde'and Beauvais; and,tj»(J Breuil-lc-Sec, 
Avrigny, Bois-de.Lihus,withCompihgne,aud Estrm- 

' fit.-benU^ neat" Pont Ste. Maxence (page 18). 

LlanCOUrt {H miles), on the Bresche, in a pretty 
8pot, has part of the Chateau (of the time of Louis 
XIII.) of the Due de la Rochefoucauld-Liancourt, 
who established an English farm here, with a 
school of industry, Ac, besides introducing vac- 
cination. He is buried In the park, under a plain 
tomb ; and a statue of him stands in the Place. 
Shoemaklng Is carried on. Population, 4,033. 

Crell (4 1 miles), a buffet for refreshments, 83 
miles from Paris, where five lines of railway branch 
o/r to St. Quentin and Beauvais, Ac. (see Routes 5, 7). 
It stands among hills, on the Oise; and has an old 
bridge ; a chnrch with a good spire ; manufactories 
of pottery and pipe*; with traces of the old chateau 
ron an island), where Charles VI. was placed 



HAND-BOOK to FBAKCE. ' 



when lunatic, and of St. Evrcmond's Abbey. There 
Is another line to Paris, by St. Len d'Esserent and 
Pontoise, formerly the malh line. Population, 
8,183. HoteL—Dw Chomlu de Fer. 

OhaaUlly Ce miles iVom CxeU by rail, «6 miles 
from Paris), !n a beautiful spot. In the Fwtat of 
that name, has remains of a CMteau of the Hont- 
moreacies, and of the great Cond^, who was visited 
by Louis XIV., when Vatel, his cook, killed himself 
because the tish had not come; and which, as 
enlarged by his family, was pulled down at the 
Revolution. The remains include a hunting-seat 
on the lake, a chapel, splendid Biablet^ 620 feet 
long, for lao horses (built 1719-85), andtbeEuglUh 
garden and grounds, in the midst of the Forest. Its 
owner, the Duke d'Aumale has restored the 
Chateau, at a great cost. Here is a Hospital built 
and richly endowed by the last Prince of Cpnd^; 
and the Church has remains of the family. Twelve 
roads meet at the centre of the Forest, called the 
Round Table, whore the "Derby" and "St.Leger" 
are run for, at the annual Races of the French 
Jockey Club, in May and October. Hunting parties 
are got up here. On Lake Commellc, is a Lodge, 
built, they say, by St. Louia's mother, Blanche of 
CastUe^and lately restored. English Church iService 
here. Blonde lace and articles in wood are made. 
Populaflon, 4,«Sl.' J7o/tffa. — D'Anglctcrre ; du 
Cygne. 

[SenllS, 4 miles from Chantllly, on the Hrfe to 
Crrfpy-en-Valois, a sons-pr^fectnre wllii 7,116 
population, in department Olse, on a hllt-slde 
among forests where the Annette and Nonetf e 
join. It was the capital of the SHvanectes, In 
Casar's time, and has traces of Roman-buIIt 
waU9, with several old gates, as the Porte do 
Meaux, Porte de Bellon, Porte de Compifegne, 
4c., besides St. Louis's rolnod CastH. Philippe 
Auguste was married here, 1180, to Elizabeth of 
Halnault; and it stood seven or eight fierce 
assaults of the Leaguers, 1588. The old cathe- 
dral Church, rebuilt by Louis XII., on the site 
of Charlemagne's, has a plain front, with a 
corner spire on a piiniaclcd tower, 225 feet high ; 
also two good north and south porches, Ijuilt by 
Francis I. There are, besides, the church and 
abbey of St. Vincent; a ho8pico,how the H6tel 
de Ville, a public library. Trade in"-' -' 



10 



BRADSHAW 8 ILLCSTSATSD 



[Seel. 




grain, wine, cUewy, and atone. '. tht oldesl part beins AbM flegni' a Bomaneaqoe 
BdUI.—VtL Grand firont and towers, one 9l which was, till lately. 960 



Ceif. 
At 1| iiiniillMiTll>aiiiThli old abbey of St. Tk- 
totre,afaTOuitenaovt«f lindsXI. Thecroaft- 
bowmen of tMapiaca     II I* anOie ICth 





LeaTin^ ChantiUy, the line tra^ 

^ammiOlp, and paaaes over a Tiadnct of 

96t yards lon^, ow the TKbre to Oaj-larmm \ 
(t HulcaX Then thraagh the ForesU of Oiry and 
of Coye to Bvrvflllan(^aules), where there is ' 
Here there ia a m i i tt f tm in u n to 

(4| Bika diatantX with n 

bnflt int. which beiongcd to Joeeph 

 tlw French treaty 

( signed here, MM. 

of the Fence of Amins were adjusted 



feet lilgli, and lias been restored by Napoleon I. and 
his snecessors with great splendoor. Tlie new 
windows are stained with historical subjects, and 
tlie chapels. Ac., are fall of paintings and freaeoes. 
the monmnenta. Ac, are thoae of l>agDbert 
St. I4inis's time), Lonis XH. and 
Henry H. and Qoecn, Francis L and Qneen, 
m, HcBiy lY., Francis II. 
and the twelre Apoetlea, 

_ ^ .or 

of 

flrant of the mmr t» ^tte nU err of 
]lanftjoieSt.I>eniK,'' 

There la a fine organ. Im 

of an the 
as old as the 11th centnry. The Abli^ 





in the r^iSov J'teei7«m, in the park (on the site Hon>«. aa wtbmH by Cette. is naed as an As^^htm 



to 




of a made of the 11th centnry). where they 
show the boat in wluch Sir Sidney 
I captured at IUTre.lT9C. Thispie- 
Antnie ef woods. hiDa, rocfcsv lakes, 
fidls. Ac, is thonght to look quite 
Traees ef a 1I«m—  ean^ are seen 
at Batte-MaheL] 
The next station is 

L0«fZ«S(HBB«s); note the Tonr Saint Rieal, 
12th to Uth centuries. 

m 

l(Snnles). At Smiles 
^stance is the small teem of 6ossaBB(2.M3 in- 
with a church of the 12th and 13th 
>; theearred organ-case is ISth eoitury. 
It was the birth-place of Philippe Anguste, 116S; 
this king was in tlie 3rd Crusade with Bidiard of 
England. Fearing the Fort of Gargea, we reach 

nilllillU mfilng(Ti milesX after which the 
next station is 

St. Dads di mile), a aooa-pr£fcctnre of depart- 
ment Seiiie, witk a population of 50.992, on two 
little branches of the Seine, end on the canal join- 
ing the rhrer to Canal de rOoreq, is the old burial- 
place of the f^nch kinsa. who wcreinterred in the 
^Mcy Ckmrth of the Benedictinea, founded C13v by 
Pagobert. Length, S9« feet ; breadth, 190; and 
80 fed high to the vault. It was rebuilt, n44-l»l. 



of the 



far orphai 
IMai 

In e wMlm . and 
A bridge 



•/ 



to 



founded in 
Many com nulla, 
a large ^eep fair in 
De St. Denis, in the Seine, 
to GcnneTiiners. BWefr.— {>u Grand Cerf ; 
de Ui Croix Blanche. 

Our line now paves St. Oucn, a place on the Seine, 
with a '•*«i^f . inhabitedat Tsrloos times by sereml 
distinguished personages, and specially noted for 
the promise of the charter, here given by Loots 
XVHL, when re-entering Paris in 1814. The caves 
about it are used as granariea and iodMnnea. 

Clignancourt on mie side, and Anberrilliers on the 
other, are next paased. Then Moatmartre. a hill 
SCO feet above the Seine, with its new Chnrdi, 
citadel, and reserroir at the top» wlience th e re is n 
fine view over Paris. It is also nmrked by Ita 
quarries of plaster of Paris, Its windmiDa. and pn^s- 
gmetUSy for pleeaare-seekers. 

ChapeUe St. Denis is jaat outside the Barri^re St. 
Denis, which divides the city firoes the oldp ro i in ce 
ef He de Frsnce, now called the department dn 
Seine ; and at length the Embarcadfere, w 

VBxIb TennbillS. is reached, at 18, Rue de 

Dunkerque. Omnihoses, Ac , wait on every train. 

See ArwdMkaw's P^ris GmUt and the C&mUMemtml 

GwUk; and Routes It and 34, fbr Tersa|IleSt ^iid 

' other pieces round Paris. 



Boute 2.] 



HAKD-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



U 



Calais to 8t Omer, Hazeliroack, Lille, and 

Arras. 

This was, up to about 1865, the direct route to 
Paris. Tl»e express trains now all take Route 1, 
rid Boulogne. 

Leaving Calais the line quits the Boulogne rail 
just after St. Pierre-l^s-Calais, andshortly reachci 

ArdreS (6{ miles), a small fortified town, near 
the Field of the Cloth of Gold, where Henry VIII. 
and Francis I. met, 1520: so called from the 
splendid equipages displayed, of which there is a 
curious picture at Hampton Court. All tliis part 
is now covered with willows and flax fields, in the 
centre of which is the village of Les Sanies (popula- 
tion, 900), which grows as much aa 80,000/. worth 
of flax yearly. The dcouchers, or scutchers, pre- 
pare steeped flax for the spinners, working in little 
clay-built huts, or boutiques. At Tournehem, near 
tills, is an old castle which belonged to Anthony 
of Bur^niiidy. GuInes, with 4,503 souls, is close 
by, on the line from Calais to St. Pol. Ileory 
VIII.'s Banquet Hall, at the above meeting, stood 
in Rue du Temple near a achool. 

Aadntica (H miles). 

Watten-Epexleeque, the ancient Itiumprom., 
which was on the sea in Cresar^s time. Ic has an 
old watch tower on the hill, from whence England 
may be seen, and where stood a house of pilgrimage. 
From here a branch rail to GraYeUlldS (see page 
2) was opened 1873. The next station (5 miles) is 

ST. OHER, 

Where the line from Boulogne eomes in (page 8). 

Hotels. — Hotel de la Porte d'Or et d'Angleterre, 
Rue St. Bertin. 

French service on Sundays in the French Re- 
formed Church. 

1^ Objects of Notice. — The Church — St. Ber- 
tin 's Tower— Jesuits' College. 

A fortified town of the third class, and sous-pre- 
fecture, in department Pas*de-Ca1ais, in a marshy 
spot, on the Aa, where six great rouds meet ; with 
21,061 inhabitants. During the fury of the Revolu- 
tion its name was changed to "Moriii la Montagne ." 
It is surrounded by the canals and gardens of a 
Flemish-speaking population. St. Audomar founded 
ohofcb here, apd gave h|s name to the town 



Loula XIV. took it* from Flanders, 1677. The 
Cathedral of Notre Dame was begun in the 11th 
century, on the site of St. Audomar's, whose tomb 
it contains, besides good carved work, a picture by 
Rubens, <fec. It is 321 feet long, and deserves ex- 
amination; the clock shows the moon's changes, the 
months, the signs of the zodiac, &c. This is at one 
end cf tlie town; at the opposite end stands a Tower 
only of St. Bertiu's Abbey, whore Cliilderic III. died. 
It was one of the finest convents in this part, wtih 
an income of half a million livres. The Tower of 
St. Denis's church is in the same massive style. 
The Jesuits' College, built 1615-36, for English 
Roman Catholics, is now occupied by a commercial 
scliool; its church is worth notice. Here O'Ccnnell 
began his education when a boy. The Hotel de 
Ville is modern, with a dome; the Museum has 
some antiquities; and there are a large Military 
Hospital and a Public Library. The Arsenal was 
built in 1781. Occasionally, mi itary manoeuvres 
on a large scale are practised here, and at Helfaut 
Camp, A\ miles distant. 

Linens, embroidery, paper, excellent pipes, Ac, 
arc made, and a good trade carried on. 

In tlie neighbourhood are Clainnarah Abbey 
(3 miles), with its floating islands; and the little 
town of Argues (I mile), near tlie Sept Ecluses, or 
seven locks of the Aa, in its descent to Gravelincs. 
Rail to Boulogne, and to Dunkerque. 

Ebbltnghem (6f miles'). 

HaselirOTlCk (6i miles;, where the lines to Dun- 
kirk and Lille join, is a sous-prefecture of 1J,€73 
souls, in a fertile spot, on a branch of the Lys. It 
has a large church, built 1490-1520, with a hand- 
some spire-tower of 276 feet; a new Hdtel de Ville, 
fronted by a portico of twelve pillars ; a government 
tobacco factory, at the old Augustine convent; 
a library of 4,000 volumes. Linen, soap, A;c., are 
made. Hotel.— Des Trois Chevaux (three horses). 

Passing Bteenbecquo (4 miles) and Thiexmes 

(3 miles) the old line to Lille reaches Berguette 
(8} miles). 

LUlers (4 miles), in department Pas de-Calais, 
on the fertile banks of the Nave, where one of the 
earliest artesian wells in France was bored; so- 
called from the old name, Artois, of this province. 
Population, 7iO09, Cfi^rch qi 12t|i century. 



12 



bradshaVs illustrated 



The neitt stations are OhdCqued and FOTKllid- 
reuil. 

Bi6tifttlii6 (4 miles); a jtrnctlun statton on the 
line from HazebrOuck to Arras ; a sous-pr^fectnre, 
and raiHtary place of the second class, on the river 
Blanche.' The grand sqttaro has, near the HOtel 
de Vllle, a curious and lofty spire-tower, or Beffrd^ 
14th century. Mach of the water Is supplied by 
artesian wells, which were first tried here. Popu- 
lation, 11,098. Here are beet-root sugar factories. 
Hotels. — ^De Prance ; du Nord ; du Lion d'Or. 

The 'Wood of Dames Chartreuses oiTers a fine 
panorama. 

From B^thune a rail proceeds to Donai, by way 
of Lens and Carvlh; another, 34 miles long, 
proceeds to Lille, byway of Btllly-Grenay and 
Violadnefl; Another, via Houdaln, to St. Pol, 
Doullens, and Amiens ; with a bi*anch from Donl- 
lens to Abbeville, via Prevent, and another to 
St. Omer,t>»<i Aire-sur-Lys. 

• [Alire, ^ third-class fortress, where the Lys 
and Laquette meet the St. Omer and Bassl^e 
canals. It has a bellry, and St. Paul's Gothic 
Church. Mallebranche was a native. Popula- 
tion, 8,409. //o<€/«.-D'Augleterre ; de Flandre.] 

Lens, an old place on the Snnchez, where the 
Prince of Cond€, in 1648, gained a victory over the 
Spaniards. Population, 13,862. Many collieries. 

FaTbutr-Vlmy, followed by 

Arras, for which see page l4. 

The new line from Hazebrouck to Lllle passes 

Strazeele (4 miles). 

Ballleill (5 miles), an ancient-looking place, on 
a hill, with old carved houses, St. Waasi's old 
church, and a Jesuits' college. Population, 18,276. 

Bteenwerck (2| miles). 

ArmentiirM (5} miles), on the Lys, noted for 
Its gl'aln, linen, A;d. Population, 98,638. 

Pefendlletf (Sf miles). The next place to this 
(7i miles) is 

LILLB, 

62 miles from Calais, former]}' L'I$% or Ryssel, in 
Flemish. 

HotELS. — De I'Europc, the best In the tovn; 
de Lille J de Paris; de France. Buffet at station. 

Grand Caf^ Jean and Hotel. 

English Vice-Consuh and English Church Service, 
-t Christ Church, Rue Watteiiu. 



[Sec. 1. 

^"Objects of KoTiCB.~CitAdel— Ste. Cathe- 
rine's Ghttrch-^Piorte de Paris-^t. Maarie&*s 
Church— Hotel de Ville — Museum— Hopiial Com- 
tesae. 

Population, 301,311. A large mauufactarin^ 
town, on the Deule. on the Belgian frontier; capital 
of department du Nord (formerly of French Flath' 
ders); and a strongly fortified post, standing in a 
fertile and populous plain, covered with windmills 
and factories. It grew out of an abbey, founded 
about 840 ; was improved by Baldwin V., in 1047, 
and after many events, including the taking of it 
fVom the Spaniards, by Louis XIV., in 1667, and 
from the French, ly Marlborough, in 1 108, it was 
finally given up to France, 1713. 

It is an oval, 1| mile long (formerly <Ho8ed in- by 
ramparts and ditches, which have been cleared 
away, and replaced foy handscune boulevards) . It is 
defended by Fort St. Mautioe, and several new 
forts, and by a Citadel of great extent, on the 
west. The latter^ one of Vauban^s best, was 
considered almost impregnable. The Austrians 
tried to take it, 1792, bat without snccesa; a fact 
commemorated by the Statne of Lille, a column, 
in the Grande Place, near the Bourse. 

Porte St. Andre is the oldest of Its seven gates, 
having been built in 1670; the Porte de Paris has 
a triumphal arch, by Volans, built 1682, in honour 
of Louis XIV., whose bust is here, accompanied by 
figures of Hercules and Mars. Those of Roubaix 
and Gand were constructed by the Spaniards, in 
the 16th century. There are 14 gates in all. 
Most of the houses are modem and regular, and 
generally two storeys high; but many work-people 
live in cellars. A broad Esplanade near the Citadel 
is planted .with trees, and lias a statue of General 
Negrier. 

The largest open part, next to the Grande Place, 
is the cattle and wood Market, near the Douane, 
(custom-house) ; some of the oldest houses are in 
this neighbourhood, havhig their fronts cirved in 
the Flemish or Spanish style; and here are the 
public Baths. Pont Nenf is a small bridge of six 
arches, built 1701, on the Grand Blvage, a branch 
of the Deule, where goods arc landed. Pont Royal 
is ascended "by steps and covered Over. In this 
<juarter, also, are the I^fllafs de J^stlbe (irl(H > 



Hottte 2.] 



I|4|fp-B00|L to tRAl^CK. 



porlicoof (our piUAr«); th« general hospital, foun4ed 
1783; the ffQTeniiQent tolMooo (actory, luagaaines, 
.^rrMtt» the arUllery depdt, an4 large pablio 
granary. 

The M6tel49 VHk, in Plaee Rlhour; is m Gothic 
pile of yarious dates, originally began by the 
Dukes of Burgundyin the Ibth century, when it 
was called the Palais de Rihour; and rebuilt 1846. 
.Here are the Salle da Gonclaye, a vestige of the 
old Palace, with old paintings j on old chapel, and 
a modem belfry. Charles V. and Henry V(II. 
visited it together, 1543. The new Museum and 
Art Qailery contains several good pictures, by 
Rubens, Vandyke, Ac; portraits of the Dukes of 
Flnnders, Ac; also the Mus^e Wiear^ being a 
collection of dixtwingi by Raphael, Michael Angelo, 
and other Old Masters, which were presented to 
the town by Wicar, a native of Lille, who died at 
Rome, 1834. The Jiius^e MoiiUt is another curious 
collection, by a native of that name, who died 1850. 

At the Hotel de Vllle Is also the public Librarjf^ of 
MfOOO volumes, besides MSS. 

The Hdtel de la Monnaie (or mint) adjoins the 
.Cirque, which they say marks the site of the 
ChAteau de Bug, bailt by " Lyderio,*' fonnder of 
the town. 

The Pr^eture is a fine modem building. In 
Place de la Rtfpublique. 

The Sourte, or Exchange, stands in Grande Place; 
It was built 1652, with a square court inside. 
Behind it is the Theatre, begun 1785, but since 
enlarged, and having a handsome portico of eight 
columns. 

Among the churches, none of which are of much 
note, are St. ifauriee, near the railway station, an 
ancient Gothic church, begun 1022, restored and 
enlarged 1874 ; St. Andre\ with a good pulpit ; St$. 
Cathtrine, with an altar-piece by Rubens; Kolre 
Dame de la Treille, a new Gothic church; and St. 
Pierre and St. Paul In the Faubourg Wazemmcs, 
with a good spire. The English Church, in Rue 
Lyderic, was built 187U. There is also a French 
Protestant Church. 

A large Military Hospital is seen near the Pre- 
fecture, Vuilt 1765. Tjie hospital St. Sauveur is 
near that church and the Hdtel Dieu. 

The old men*! bospli^l, or mpital QwUem, 



iounded iu the )3th cpatury, by Countess Jcnunc, 
daughter of the Byzantine omi*e4'or, Baldwin IX.. 
has a fine vaulted wooden roof in the great liall. 

At the Administration des Ifospicfs, are a picture 
by Vandyke, and the halbert of the famous Jcnnno 
Maillotte, leader of the townspeople against the 
insurgent Flemish, who attacked the ploce 1582. 

There are at Lille, as might be expected, several 
CSfwentM, or barracks, and large corn stores; also 
schools of medicine, painting, <bc. ; and a botanic 
garden. Here died, 1852, an old veteran, aged 88, 
called Coulomben VImmortel. Among other escapes, 
when taken in the Venddan war and shot for not 
giving the pass-woi'd, he fell pierced with ten balls 
and four stabs of the bayonet, and yet survived sixty 
years. 

Man^factures. — Lille has long been celebrated 
for its Lille or Lisle thread manufactures, to 
which are added cotton, linen, beet-root sugar, 
coUafind other oils, in the factories of Wazemincs, 
Ac, in the suburbs. Flax is extensively grown 
and there are large machinery works. 

Conveyances: By railway to Calais, Dunkirk, 
7oumay, Brussels, Mens, Le Quesnoy (page 22), 
Orchies, Tourcoing, Mcnin, Qand, Comiues, 
Courtrai, Ac. GfBOiX^, to the south-eastr has part 
of an old abbey, and a pyramid in honoar of Louis 
XV., who was here after the battle of Fontenoy . 

From Lille, on the rail to Gaud, you pass 

ROUbaiX (5 miles), a town of 114,917 people, 
and a thriving seat of the woollen and cotton manu- 
factures. The town is almost entirely modern, 
and in 1806 had only 8,000 inhabiUnts. . Almost 
the only antiquities in the place are tombs, Ac, ini 
the church of St. Martin. Jiotels.'^HoUil Ferraillc ; 
du Commerce. English Chureh here at Cboix-Nobd. 

TOUrOOing (if mile), noted lor its table linen. 
Population, 65,477. ffotel.—\)n Cygne. French 
Douane. Rail open to OroMei and Menin (Bel- 
gium). Here beginsa system composedof tt^e North 
•Eastern, Lille and Valeneiennes, Orleans, and La 
Vendue linee; which, starting from the colliery 
centres of Roubaix and Tourcoing, connects with 
Paris by the Grand Ceintnre, and, frid Tours^ with 
La Vend^e^ 

Monsoron m miles), wb^re eanri%gM are 
changed fer Be)«iuin.'«-fl«e- J»hi(I»^*# Oitid' 
keek te .As^msi hM ikeBhit^ 




u 



flllAt)8HAW*8 ILLtJStBATBD 



[Sec. I. 



LeAviar WH^ the next station* towards Parte 
are WattignlM (i| mileaX Beclln (2i mites). 
Phftlempin (2* mOe^, and Ubercourt Short 
branch to Gaxyln in department Nord, with a 
population of sugar makers, colliers, and iron- 
founders. 

Leforest (H miles), in department Pas-de- 
Calais ; we then enter that of Nord again, at 

Donai (5 miles), a strong fortress, and sous-prd- 
fecture, having a tribunal, college, and School for 
ArtUlery and engineers, to which the Duke of 
Wellington was sent when a boy. 

£ro/</s.— DeFlandre; del'Europe; du Commerce. 
Buffet at station. Population, 6,118. 

It was once a seat of the Caiuaeiy in Belgic Gaul, 
and stands on the river Scarpe, which is joined to 
the Escaut, or Schelde, by a canal. Marlborough 
took it in the wars of Queen Anne's time. The old 
walls are strengthened with several towers; there 
are good walks on the ramparts. It has a Gothic 
Bdtel de FtW«, with a pinnacled belfry tower and 
chimes over it; Palais de Justice; an Arsenal 
(where the English prisoners were kept In the war) ; 
large Cannon Foundry ; Public Library of 80,000 
vols.. Museum, and Picture Gallery, In the old Jesuit 
Convent; Benedictine College (with a good 
chapel), where O'Connell studied ; Botanic Garden, 
Theatre; large Hospital; and Hotel Dleu. Every 
other year an exhibition of works of industry takes 
place. Another exhibition, which occurs yearly in 
July, Is the proceuian vf Cayan (Gdant or Giant) 
and his wife, with their family, and other per- 
sonages. The Giant is about ten yards high, 
dressed in armour. 

The EnglUh College for priests, founded by 
Cardinal Allen, situated near the raUway station. 
Is turned into the Barracks aux Grands Anglais ; 
it was here that the Botiai version of the Old 
Testament was first published, ie09. A worthy 
8 emlnarlstof Doual, who visited England In the 17th 
century, was asked, " Quid vldlsti?"-What most 
astonished him there? «'Vidl," said the scandalised 
priest, "Vldl eplscopos, et eplsoopas, et episcopa- 
tuloe." (I have seen bishops, and bishops' wives, 
and bishops' children f) The former Scots College 
is now a nunnery. 
Ta|>e8try, sewing thread, bone lace, *c, are 

•nade. Ball to Somaln (p. 17), Valenciennes, and 



Braasels, as In Route 4. Cambral (see Route 5). 
At Somaln is the junction for Orchles. 

Prom Donai over the Scarpe to Corbehem 
(8 miles), then 

Vltry (8 miles) and RoitZ (4i miles) ; and 
5| miles beyond that, 

ARRAB, 
84 miles ftom Calais, 119 miles f^om Paris. 

HOTBLS.— Du Griffon; du Petit St. Pol; de 
rUnivers; du Commerce. Buffet at Station. 

1^ Objects of Noticb.— Hdtel de Ville— St. 
Waast's Abbey— Robespierre's House. 

Population. 25,701. A strongly fortified town, 
chief place of department Pas-de-Calais (formerly 
of Artois province, which gave title of Comte 
d'Artols to Charles X.), a third-class military sta- 
tion, seat of a bishopric, tribunal, college, chamber 
of manufactures, &c.. In a fertile plain, on the 
Scarpe. li yt&b the Atrebates ot Cesar; and even 
In St Jerome's time (6th century) was noted for 
its trade. 

The Cltd, or old town, on the highest ground, was 
buUt round the hermitage of St. Vaast (founded in 
the 6th century), which afterwards became a large 
AbbeVt and has left some remains at the Bishop's 
Palace, Museum, and Public Library (40,000 
volumes). Near this Is Ifotre Dame Cathedral, 
built 1882, In the Grecian style, on the site of 
the old Gothic one, which was destroyed by the 
partisans of Robespierre, who was born here. His 
house, a plain-looking one, buUt 1730, Is pointed 
out in Rue des Rapporteurs. The Hotel de Ville U 
a handsome restored Gothic building, with a tall 
Belfry. The Grande and PetiU Place, or squares, 
near the Hotel de Ville, are surrounded with 
picturesque old Flemish houses and arcades. The 
Palais de Justice, Theatre, Post Office, Chapel des 
Ursulines, Churches of St. Joan Baptiste and of 
St. G^ry, near the Hospital, are all In the Haute 

VlUe. 

The Basse Ville, or lower town, divided from the 
other by the brook Crlnchon, has good houses and 
streets of hewn stone. Here arc the Barracks ; 
the Protestant Temple; the St. Sacrament Chapel ; 
the Placode la Basse Ville; and the Promenade, 
leading to the Citadel, built by Vauban. Other 
buildings are the deaf and dumb school, large 
barracks, riding and military schools. 



1 



Eoute 3.] 



UnKD-fiOOlt to tRX^Ct, 



15 



DamienSt who was broken on the wheel for trying 
to assassinate Louis XV., was a native. At one 
time it was held by the Spaniards, who put up this 
rhyme on the gates— 

*'Quand les Fran^als prendront Arras, 
Les souris mangeront les chats ;** 
which, when it came into French hands, some one 
proposed to retain, iherely suppressing the p in 
prendront. 

Manufactures of lace, beet-root sugar, linseed 
oil are carried on; besides a trade in com (very 
large), grain, wine, and spirits, kept in the chalk 
cellars in the Gittf part. ''Arras" tapestry, once 
so much in use, was made here. 

Near this, at Mont St. Eloy (4 miles) is a ruined 
abbey; and two stones at Acque$ mark the spot 
where Charles the Bold was defeated by Count 
Baldwin, 863. 

Rail to Carvin and Lille. To St. Fol (bdow) and 
Btaplei (page 5), 38| miles, vid AnvllI, Hesdln 

(page 5), Maresquel, Montrenll-sur-Mer 

(page 6). AtAnvin, a branch goes off towards 
Calais, tid VerohiXI and Emges. To DouUens 
(page 8X St. Pol (below), and B^thune (page 12). 

It passes Anliigiiy, Ugny-de-Flocli^ <feG., to 

St. Pol; and thence by Femes, Lapugnoy, Ac, 

to B^thune; about 40 miles long. 
[St. Pol, on the old road to Montreuil,is a sous- 
prefecture (population, 8,706), on theTernoise, 
in a healthy spot; and haying traces of the old 
Cattte of its former Counts. Here four great 
roads and three rails meet, including the lines to 
Etaplcs and Abbeville. About 134 mllesf urther 
is Agincourt (see Route 1).] 

Boilenx (5| miles). AcUet-le-Orand (6i 

miles). 

[Branch rail to BapftHITlft, aa old as the eleventh 

century, fortified by Charles V., but given up 

1659. It has an Hotel de Ville, with a Beffroi ; 

the Church of St. Nicholas; and a ruined Castle. 

A fight took place here in the Franco-German 

war between Faidherbe and Von Goben. This 

branch lino is continued to Maxcoing* on the 

Picardy and Flanders line, which connects 

Cambrai and Peronnc.} 

All>ert (11^ miles), on a branch of the river 

Ancre, wlilch makes a fine cascade here. Here Is a 

quarry, in which various fossils are found ; and at 

the cburc)> is animageof ''Notre-DameBrebi^res,*' 



to whom the shepherds and shepherdeSBM of this 
{iart make an annual offering of cakes. Near here 
is Pdronnc, accessible by rail from Aclli6t-16* 

Grand. 

[P^ronne, on the Picardy rail, a sous-prefecture 
and fortress (population, 4,746), in the marshes 
of the Somme; once the old capital of Santerre. 
It has a Castle, partly burnt, 1877, with a tower, 
called Tour Hebert, where Charles the Simple 
(placed here by Heribert, Count of Verman- 
dois) died a prisoner, 929; and where, too, 
the old fox, Louis XI., was trapped by his 
vassal, Charles the Bold, as related in Scott's 
*' Queutin Durward." Having been unsuccess- 
fully besieged by the Spaniards, and by Henry 
of Nassau, 1586, it styled itself la Pucelle 
(maiden); but it was taken, 1815; and again 
9th January, 1871, by the Germans. It has 
an old Gothic church, andHdtel de Ville, with 
a belfry. At Chftteau d'Applincourt, the League 
against the Protestants was signed by Henry 
III. and the Guises. Hotel. — Stc. Claude] 
Corllie (10 miles) has the curious portal, Ac, of 
a Benedictine abbey, founded 664, by Ste. Bathilde, 
and a statue of the saint, date, 1300. At 10| miles 
from this we come, vid Longuean, to AZUieilBf for 
description see Route 1. 

ROTJOTB 8- 

Calais to Dimkerqne (SO miles) and Haze- 

brOUCk (25i miles). 
From Calais, the first stations are 8t* Pierre, 

Marck, and Pont d'Oye. Then Gravellnes 

(15 miles), on a flat dreary coast ; a port of 5,952 
souls, at the mouth of the Aa, where Henry VIJI. 
embarked 1520. Here the Spaniards and English 
defeated Francis I., 1558; and off here many 
vessels of the Armada were taken, or sunk, by 
the English, 1588. A branch rail, vid Watten (see 
page 11), was opened 1873. It has an arsenal, 
and a monument by Girardon, in the church. 
Flax, hemp, corn, colza, Ac, are abundant in this 
country of dykes and willows. 

Hotel. — Des Messageries. Sea bathing at Forte 
Philippe. 

Hence through a marshy country, intersected 
by canals, past BonrbOUTg (population, 2 

8| miles, Loon, and Petlt-Synthe, to 



y^ 



16 



B^j^HAw> l)r('Cf^t]UXat> 



£S)|9. 1. 



PUNXIEKr Crencb— OuuKdrauA, 

1S9 miles fropn ^aria; 90 from Calais; abq^t 49 
from Dover. 

IIOTELS.—Caslno Hotel; large, comfortable, and 
moderate; close to the sea. 

Chapeau Rouge ; deFlandres; Grand Hotel. 
* Hesident British Consul. 

' English Chwch Service at the church In Rue des 
Vieux Remparts. French Protestant Service : Quai 
aux Bois. (See Bradshaw's Continental Guide for 
hours.) 

Tramway to Rosendael. 

^-Objects op Kotics. — Udtel de Ville— 
Museum of Paintings — St. Eloi and St. Jean's 
Churches — Statue of Jean Bart — Fisliermen's 
Church. 

Population, 17,868. A sotts-pr^fecture in depart- 
ment Nord, a bustling port, and military post of 
the second class, in a flat spot, on the Belgian 
frontier. Its. cleanliness, excellent bathing on 
the smooth sands, the cheap living, and the good 
character borne by the Flemish servants, have 
attracted a number of English here. It grew 
out of a church founded in the 7th century by St. 
Eloi, called the " Church of the Dunes," from the 
dunes, downs, or sand-hillocks, which line this 
tenibly flat coast. It has an anchorage lying at 
some distance, in the road, and is as noted for 
smugglers in peace, as for its privateering exploits 
during war. Its most special hero is Jean Bart^ 
who was a native, and whose statue is in Place 
Royale. Jean Gauthier, Jean Lion, who styled 
himself Godts Vrient (i.e., God's Friend), Koster, 
and the Jacobsons, are almost equally celebrated 
personages here. 

Canals run inland to Bergues, Ostend, Bruges, 
&c. White l)rlck houses of two storeys make up 
the neat broad streets, but there is a want of good 
water. Many of the people, workmen and others, 
live in cellars. The town is defended by ramparts, 
the citadel, Fort Rlsbau, &c. ; and has two Basins, 
from one of which, restored 1794, frigates have 
been launched. The harbour is being considerably 
enlarged and improved. A Light-tower, 194 feet 
high, stands near the basin for the chasse-mar^es ; 
vessttls of 800 tons can enter at hig;h water. 
DnnkerquQ la the fourth commercial port in 
France. 



Thf mui ^ VHif, bpUt 1(N>4, iiAP old-^t|)ioiied 
pil(), with.ii low spire. . ^ tQlid ijH|«9r« oiock-lower, 
of brick, 1^4 feet bigb, }s eal^d ^ovr df V£g^y l^e- 
cause one part of the church is now cnt off f^om i% 
by the road. This Chunk (gf- ^\oV%) ia Gothic, 
with a Grecian portico i>f ten pUlar«, added by 
Liuis, and oontains somQ paintings. St. Jean Bap- 
tiste has pictnies by Vandyke and Guide, to be 
seen for a fee. The Jesuits' church is replaced 
by the College; the pablic Library contftlns 7,000 
Yolttmes. The Utueutn is rich in Flemish pietures, 
medals, and shells. There are two sea ftnd other 
bathing establishments. The Fishermen's Chapeile 
des Dunes, near the shore. Is, as iisnal, crowded with 
votive offerings. Gennhie Flemish is spoken all 
round Dunkirk. 

Its position has made it the scene of many con- 
tests. A castle was built by the Counts of Flan- 
ders, which the English burnt, 1888 ; they took the 
town, 1588, but gave it up to Spain the next year. 
The French (under Ooud^ took it, 1558, but re- 
stored it immediately; again, in 1658, it was taken 
by Turenne at the BaHlt of the Dunei, given up to 
Cromwell, but sold In 1662 by Charles II. to 
Louis XIV., who fortified it. This happened when 
Clarendon was building his great house in Picca- 
dilly, which the mob nicknamed " Dunkirk House." 
The fortifications were razed, 1715, but afterwards 
restored. The Duke of York tried to take it, 1793, 
but without success. Admiral Roussln was bom 
here. 

Manufactures of sugar, ropes, sail-cloth, flax, 
and jute (which migrated here from Dundee after 
the strikes), and a trade in eau-de-vie, gin, soap, 
beer, tobacco, fish, grain, 'pottery, butter, vege- 
tables, fruit, and eggs to England. 

Conveyances: By rail to Lille, Bmssels, Paris, 
Ac. By steamer to Rotterdam (12 hours), Ham- 
burg, Copenhagen; by canal-boat to Botirbourg 
(6 hours), Ostend. Ac; to London, Hull, Dundee, 
Leith, Liverpool, &c. (Sec Bradshaie's Continental 
Guide.) 

[From Dunkirk, along the coast, by rail to Gand 

past La Tente Verte, Rosendael, Oliy- 

▼elde, on the Belgian frontier, where U the 
French douane, and across the frontier, the 
first place you come to being Farnes, w[ith its 
two c^urches.^ ' 



fioute 4.] 
Thc.Uiird sUi 



inklrh, (oirariliPiili.il 
ull lottWti poit, on tbs 
h bringi veiwls of 900 
. BLiiidB imong minhei. 



;thlgh: lira lover* ol 



1 abbot o[ at. WIno 



bot moitrenurkibltl 
It wsi ODC<  Rom 



aadatharilsni,ili> 
Sen (even to Dove 



1810. ibont 13 feet doim, 
ik« la port ctf Iha North 
llagai, InclndlDg Dunkirk, 



Ac, oilendiiig •bore M mllei eTory vsy. Ocueril 
VanOuninc, irbo toBght It WlMTloo. Wu bora 
lii^re i ind hti boon aod girdeiu aro ibown. Old 

Haiabronok (H nillen). on ihe nuln Una, u Id 
Route 3. HeraincliuetoPoperiiiKhc(13DillH)Bnd 
Y|irei (S lujloi), over the Bel(Ulirr<HitlB[.pU'I> off. 

HOTJTE 4. 
TaiiM to Dovai, ValKudennM. Hodi, ud 



DUUnce, SIS milet, or S4t kll 

l>on»l,i'»l"Bo"»»- TbemitiUtloDU 

IContlsiijr ("I =■'!«•) ; then 

■Omftln (*i nillM), wbera the JoncUan ot the 
liraticn ftoinBii"i«oy. on theBt. (Jiientln Una.Ukei 
■Uce.bymyorCapibniaadBoiMlWlB. BalWMn 



Pomutioi, 
Honu.— Dg 
laNord. 



lomlditof 1 (KulBeli: 



"iih Iwo of 
:el de Ville. 



(chleBy Flemlih), 4c, C 
CODclecge ot Che Hotel d. 

1TB3, by Baron Pujol,  ni 
hnipllal, founded IISI, li 



PnjDl. 



tooeroftnhet. 

It h» levenlgood promtiudee, nn 
ioB vlav Irom the tower o( tbe clmde 
orFrotiHid, IhehlitoilaB! WatIi;Dn 

were Had. Duohaudi, tba traf^dlenn e- 
the toolptar of the Uadelalne, at Pnr 

Unanii iber* an eeTeral sugi 
dUtlliariaa of en-de-iic 



r 



4iS 



&RA£t611AW S ILLCSTB^TSD 



[Sec. 1. 



> a lafs* tndA. in thwe arCiUea, b^sidos coal. 
; Tbe eoAliaiaeB at AUla^Biplpy 4,000 liftud». 
. Bail to HazebrODok and LiUe; to Laon by 
Guise* Afrontier Rail to Aninoye (see pa^e 22), 

yiA Le Qtteaaoy ; and to mrson (34 miles), vtd 
Bavai, Maubeiige (page y2), and Fourmles. 

[St. AmaiUl-lM-Eaux (on tbe Ha2ebrotick 

. Hne)<on the Soarpe, with a population of 12,043, 

-who make lace, cambric, &c., is known for its 

• . . waters, its artesian wejils, and its cloek-to#er, , 

318 feet high, which was the spire (built 

1635-6) to the church o£;'St; Amaod's Abbey, 

fet|nde46d4' . 

The mineral Springs, near Croisette (l^mile) are 

, three, viz., Foataiue-de-Bouillon, Sourro de 
PaviUon, and Fontaine de Verity ; temperature 
\ 77". They are useful in rheumatism, paralysis, 
ulcers, &c. Season, from June to August. 
There are bathing-houses and an assembfy- 
[ room, ifec. Bon-Secours hermitage is near. 
~,\. Coild^(on the Tournay line), on the Scheldt, near 
': - the Belgian frontier, i|t a fourth class fortress 
. . (^y Vauban), with a large arsenal and good 
Hotel de Yille. it gave title of prince to 
the Bourbons, to whom it came in the 15th 
, i century. The Spaniards at one time held it, 
and the Allies took it, 1703. Population, 4,772. 
2{ail8, &o., are made. Mademoisdie Olairon, 
'. the actress, was a native. Near it is Ermitage, 
the .seat of the Due de Croi.] 
After Valenciennes, the next station but one is 
JBlanC-MlSSeron (7 miles), near the Belgian 
frontier. A rail to St. Amand (as above) was 
opened, 1875. Then comes 
Quleyrain (i mile). Mons is 10 miles, and 
Brussels is SOi miles from this. (See Brad- 
jhaw't Iland-Book to Belgium and the Rhine.) 

Paxls to Crell, Compl^gne, Tiergiiier, St. 
4)v.«ktlB, MaAlieiige, Brnisels, and Cologne. 

* .Tbisle thbdte«ot route to Cologne, t)M Kamur, 
; Liege, pad Alx-]B-01iap«lle; SOttttfleib. To Bms- 
I tela i9i& BianbMige), 194 ttfles. 
c^•'Eo GrMI> at In Route 1 \ In i«V<Bi^d order. 

Po]it-Sle.-HazeniM (V| fnii^k), in k t>HaMti&t 

<£arti>f the Qise, under a wooded bill, which has, 

. near the remains of an old one, a good three-arvhed 

-I ^nt), by Pernonaet, en a level, resting on 

if q9«9 stflMWi l»t*iolldpiifeB. Soaw old 



houses are l<ift, though it htls Sttf!ler^ In pasttfanes. 
Much grata is sold. Moncel Abbey ruins are tained 
into a wine depOt. 

Coaehes to Oom^kaijf'SW'-Armdi and denlis (see 
Route 1) . The former (12| tulles north-east), was the 
birth-place of Montaigne's adopted daughter. Hade- 
ttoiselle de Ooumay. The rail from Clermont 
(p. 9) nms ntor this, tia Ayrlgny and BolB-de- 

tUms. 

Before reaching the Atttstajion, yon pan Sarros, 

oa the OisCf near the ehfteau of Pltitit'ViSttte^ 
which balonged to Yottuzte*s nleee, Madame Ae 
Villette. They ahow,*here, a statm of the poel, on 
a pedestal, conttlnlkig fait heait, besides hit desk 
and sofa. 

Verbeirte (H n^e^* on a bUl tida, now mtdch 
decayed (population, 1,4(K)), had once three bridges 
over the Oise, and a Palace, in which Charles 
Kai'tel died, 741. His eon, Pepin, called a council 
here; and his grandson, Charlemagne, built a 
Cbapel. Charles the Bold held the Synod of Soit- 
Bons here, and gave hit daughter to Ethelwolf of 
England. It %ras burnt by the Nonnans, and re- 
stored by Charles Y. ; but few traces of luiliquity 
are left. In the time of Louis XIV., the walU 
were strengthened, and the town called VJHeneuve 
(new town). Near it is tlio old church of RhUye, 
with a Romanesque tow^. A ehort line, 11 fiailes, 
to E8tr6e6-8t.-I>6iil8. 

Comikiftglie (74 miles). Population, 14,496. 

JSToftf/s.o'De la Cloche; de France; desFleurs. 

EngliehChurch here. 

A quiet place, with narrow iU-bnilt streets, on a 
slope of the Oise, where the Alsne joins. Near its 
great Forest stood the Roman Compenduum^ with a 
small hunting-seat of tl)e time of Clovls and Charles 
the Bold, who built an abbey and chtteau h^re. 
Loult le B^gue and Louit Y. were buried in the 
abbey (which was pulled down at the Revolution); 
and it was held for Charles VII. by Jeanne d'Arc^ 
when she was takeh prisoner (1430), in a sally from 
VUusPont OaUf by tiie BurgnndfiEuw, who abld hfer 
to the English. The PtitieTIt Tower was close to 
this gate. 

The CkdletM, as rebuilt by LouSt XV., aAd finfahed 
by Napoleon I. (who first met hit bride, Hario 
iibiMse, bare), was tlie reridence of Charles of 
Smtn, Ifa IBM. It <iMM a fayourite retort of the 
iRtt StDpenWk'bottL'flar hiUi^gtnuci for the Itevtewa 



•Route 5.J 



HANl>-BOOK TO FUAMOll. 



)l» 



■»t the Camp, which was firat formed by Louli XIV. 
The noble firont, towards the Forest, is 624 feet 
wide. In the Grand Oallcry, of 100 feet, are 
'Kapo1€on*8 Victories, painted by Olrodet. It 
^ceame the head-quarters of the German Army of 
occapation, under General MantcufTcl, 1871. It is 
-now appropriated for a Mnseam, and contains some 
paintings, tnpestrlcs, and statncs. An avenue of 
nearly a mile leads from the Ch&teau to the Forest, 
.which eovera 29,600 acres (40 square miles). Quo 
road, now called Brunehaat, was a Roman way 
leading to Boissons. 

- Tli^ Abbejf of 8t. OomeUle, now rahious, had 
fome old royal tombs, and tlio organ (the first 
brought into Earope) which Gonstantinc, one of 
the Greek emperora, gare to Pepin, 751;. Its 
tower is surmounted by a turret. St. Andrd and 
St. Antoine are Gothic; St. Jacques, partly iu the 
lienaissance style. At the Carmelites' cliurch is 
tlie tomb of the Count of Toulouse, by Lemoine. 
One of the best buildings is the picturesque Gothic 
Jlotel de Ville^ with its delicate carvings, high roof, 
carved spire turrets, and fine spire belfry. The 
thrce-archcd Pont Ncuf has a pyramid, 33 foet high, 
iu the lulddlo of it. There is a public Library of 
28,000 volumes, and a Museum of antiquities. The 
walks around are extremely pleasant. Hail to 
Clcnuont-Oise, via AVTlguy (page 9). Also, up the 
Ai^nc, to AtUcby and SoiSSOns (page 23); to 
Reasons and Boye, on the Picardy and Flanders 
line ; and to Amiens (page 7). 
[Roye (9| miles north-west), an old place, on the 
Picardy rail, and the Avre, in department 
Pomme (part of Picardy), said to be the ancient 
Rodium. It has suffered from eleven sieges 
aiid three plagues. It has a church with excel- 
lent stained windows, and a door of the 1 1th 
century, in the west portal; public baths, 
mineral springs, Ac. Population, 3,931. A 
sect of Querinet*^ so called after their leader, 
Guerin, the cur^ here, were extirpated, 1<!26. 
Roye connects with Montdldier (page S), St. 
Just, Pdroune (page 16), Ep^hy (page 9), 
Cambrai, Ac. From Ep^hy there Is a con- 
nection with VdlTL or Bertlncaurfe (for 
Achlet, page 15, and Marcolng), and with 
Roconrt and 8t. Qnentln.] 

Rail to Vl]ler8-Oott«rM, Wa fterrefbttdt 

ttee pageft 9i and 28). 



thonrotte (5 miles), dothlc chafch. 
Rib^eourt (8| miles). 

Ourscamp (21 miles). Here spinning is car- 
ried on In the remains of an Abbey. 

Noyon (4i miles), the Roman A'oviodunttm, be- 
came the seat of a bishop, 151, and was the place 
where Hugh Capet wag elected king, 987. It stands 
on a hill side, among gardens, in the valley of 
Chaunay, on the Vorse, near the Oise; and is well 
built, having four gates, and the house in which (it 
is said) John Cauvin, or Calvin, was born, 1509, his 
father being diocesan secretary. He went to the 
school of the Capettes here, and, through favour of 
the bitihop, received a benefice wlicn he waa only 
twelve I two y^ara after, to escape the plague, he 
was sent to Paris. The cathedral ohnrch la chiefly 
Romanesque, of the ISth eentnry (an earlier one 
was began by Pepin), 851 feet long, and 217 high 
at the vrest towers. The interior is very impoelng. 
One of its bishops was Pope Innocent I. lYadc In 
grahi, leather, iincn, cottons, ooal. Ac. Popu- 
lation, 6,144. //o/?/.— Da Nord. Sliort lin^s to 
Lassigny, and to G Discard. 

Aptlly (ft miles), In department Alsn^. 
Ghaiiny (Similes), a decayed fortified toxfn, on 
the Olse, where the St. Qaentin canal Joins, in a 
fertile plain. Linens are bleached; And there are 
large works for polishing the plate-glass made at 
the important factory of 8t. OobalA, 10 mflea 
south-east by branch rail, first established by 
Lonvols, 1688. Populfttloh, 9,815. The canal opens 
a way between the Olse and Soinme. 

In winter the meadows along the Olse are Inun- 
dated by the rain, ond swarm with ducks, plovers, 
cranes, herons, and other wild fowl. 
fThe forest of St. Gobain, above mentioned, eoit> 
tains many striking spots, stich as the reihalns 
of a vast Premonstiatensian Abbey, now nscd 
as glass-works; le Tortolr, a honse which 
belonged to the Knights Templars ; the ruins 
of St. Kicholft»-anx-Bois, a Bemardine house ; 
and the Croix Ckssind, an ancient expiatory 
monument, erected by Si. Loiils. South of St. 
Gobahi, and about 7 mllet flrom Cbaany, are 
the mngnlftcent rnlns of 
Couey C€tHle, or Couev-^-CMttan, a great object 
of attraetloti to visiters, afid among Aie finest 
ef the kind in F]ir«!i«e d#if^kMrfi'Eiih>p^. " 



r 



so 



BRADSHAW'S ILLUSTRATED 



[Sec. 1, 



most conspicaoas remains are one entire wing, 
with great comer towers and, rising abore all 
the massiye circular Ketp^ a solid machicolated 
pUe, 190 feet high, and 80 to 82 feet thick. 
This castle belonged to the De Coucys, or 
Courcys, a tarbulent warlike race, who gave 
continual trouble to their neighbours and 
sovereigns until they died out; their family 
seat was at last destroyed by Mazarin. They 
bore this proud device : — 

" J« ne anil Boi, nl Due, Prince, ni Oomte vami ; 
Je mis le Sire de Ck>QC7." 
Twelve of this warlike house died in Palestine, 
fighting against the infidels; John de Coney, 
or Courcy, became a favourite of King John, 
and was the first Earl of Ulster; a daughter of 
Ingelram de Gouoy (who is buried near Sursee, 
in Switzerland, where he fell in battle, 1876) 
became the queen of Alexander II. of Scotland. 

There are remains of another Ch&teau in the vil- 
lage, where Clothaire IV. died in 719, and where 
La Belle Oabrielle gave birth to the Due de 
VendOme, Henry IV.'s son. 

Half-way between this and Chauny is another 
seat of the Coucys, Folembrai (now a factory), 
which, like their original castle, was forfeited 
to the French kings. At times it has been the 
residence of Diane de Poictiers and Gabrielle 
d*Estrtes. 

Near Chauny is Quieray^ whore Charles Martel 
died; and also remarkable as thespotwhere the 
treaty was made between Pepin and Stephen II. 
in 748, which confirmed to the Papacy its pos- 
sessions in Italy.] 

Tergnler (4i miles), where the branch line, vi& 
liaon, turns oif to Rheims and Epemay, as in Routes 
6 and 55; also the line to Amiens (80 miles) and 
Rouen, vid Ham and Nesle. 

[Ham (U miles ftrom Noyon), on the Somme, 
is as old as 875, andhas a moated Chdteau or state 
prison, dating partly from the 18th century. 
The Tour du Connetablt was built 1470, by the 
Constable St. P61. On the gate is his motto in 
Gothic letters, *' Mon Mieux** (my best) ; the 
great round Keep stands 108 feet high, 108 in 
diameter, and 86 feet thick. Among persons 
confined here were Charles the Simple; Joan 
of Arc, after her capture at Compi^gne ; St. 
P61. its owner (before Louii XI. sent him to 



the block); Mirabean; the ministers of Charles 
X. ; Louis Napoleon, afterwards Napoleon III.; 
Cabrera, the Carlist; and lastly, Cavaignac 
and Changamier, in 1848. Louis Napoleon 
was kept here six years, and then escaped to 
England, 1846. The church has a good choir, 
and carvings of scriptural subjects. Qeneral 
Foy was a native. Population, 8,083. 
Nesle (12 miles) gave name to one of the earlier 
marquisates in France; and has an oldCharch, 
in which nearly all its Inhabitants were 
butchered by Charles the Bold, 147S.] 
Montescovrt (61 miles). At 8| miles further, 

over a marshy tract, which cost the engineers some 

trouble to consolidate, you come to 

ST. QVBNTIN, 

95 miles from Paris. 

Hotels.— DuCygne; d'Angleterre ; de France. 

This place, seated on a hill, between the Somme 
and St. Quentin canal, is a sous-prdfecture (in 
department Aisne) of 47,551 souls, who carry on 
here, as the centre of a wide district, manufactures 
of cotton thread, table linen, silk, muslin. Jaconets, 
cambric, tarletans, shawls, engines, oil, and soap. It 
was the Roman Aufftuta-Veremanduomtn., but was 
called St. Quentin from 884, after the martyr of that 
name. It suffered from the Vandals, 401 ; Attila and 
his Huns, 451 ; the Normans in the 8th and 9th cen- 
turies; and was made the head of the Yermandois 
country by Louis I., for his nephew Pepin. Louis 
XI., and his rival, Charles of Burgundy, frequently 
contested it. In 1557, it was defended by Coligny 
against 50,000 Spaniards under Philip II. and 
Emanuel of Savoy; but taken, after a long siege. 
A battle fought close to it, 10th August, the same 
year, in which Philip was again victorious, led to 
his building the Escurial, in fulfilment of a vow 
he had made. It was captured by the Germans, 
October, 1870; and hereabouts General Faidherbc, 
with his army of the North, was defeated by 
General Oocben, on January 7th, 1871. 

The houses are modem; three faubourgs stretch 
beyond the site of its old ramparts. Overlooking 
the town, on the hill-top, is the fine church, a large 
and imposing Gothic specimen, about 420 feet long 
from the large Fulrad porch to the Virgin chapel, 
and 127 feet high in the nave (which is 212 feet 
long) ; it has 110 windows, some stained, and 43 



Route 5.J 



lUMD-BOOK to fRAKc£. 



it 



feet high, with 23 side chapels, and 78 pillars. A 
tall Bpire used to rise above the square to^Ver. It 
WAS a cathedral dnttl the bishop removed to Noyon. 
The Gothic H6tel de Ville, in Grande Place, 14th- 
16th centuries, Is worth notice for its handsome 
front and arcade, quaint cai*vings, and iantern 
tower, in which is a good chime of bells. A Latin 
inscription on the front magnifies the behaviour of 
the citizens in the siege above mentioned, before 
and after the battle. It stood eleven assaults, and 
was given up to plunder when taken. There are 
also • college, palais de justice, library of 17,000 
volumes, new theatre, gas works, besides a conscil- 
de-prud'hommes (who arrange prices, Ac, between 
masters and workmen), schools of design, founded 
by La Tour (a native portrait painter), botanical 
gardens, hospital, &c. 

The St. Quentin Canal, which la part of the system 
called Canal de Picardie, unites the Oise and Somme 
to the Scheldt, near Cambrai ; one of its tunnels, 
near Bellicourt, is 5,677 metres, or 8} miles, long. 
Charlevoix, the Jesuit historian, was a native ; so 
was Babeuf, the Communist, who died on the scaf- 
fold, 1797. Traces of three Roman ways are seen. 
Th« old town kept its Latin name for a long time 
in the form of Aoste. 

Within a few miles of St. Quentin are— CVitifoto- 
e<mrt (near the Oise), the seat of the Duke de 
Vicenza, which was rebuilt 1778, after having been 
destroyed by the Spaniards ; St. Simon, once the 
pro|>erty of the Duke de St. Simon (author of 
Memoirt of Louis XIV. and the Regency) ; and Moy 
(pron. **Moi"), which belonged toCard.deBrienne, 
a minister of Louis XYI. It has a moated castle. 

Hemp is made. Hota.—Qolden Sheep. 

Branch Rail to Hirson vid Itancourt, M^zi^res- 
anr-Oiie, Ribemont, Quifle, La Chapelle, Ac. 

fGnlse, a small third-class fortress, in a pretty 
spot on the Oise, is as old as 1050, and was 
given, 1520, to Claude de Lorraine, first Duke 
of Guise. Mary, Queen of Scots, ysM his 
grand-daughter; and Francis, sumamed le 
B.tlafr^ (from a scar in his face), was his 
grand-son. The old Chdltau, 164 feet above 
the town, now used as a barrack, has a round 
Keep left. Henry IV., against whom the 
Ooisei headed the League, burnt it, 1691. 
Jean de Luxembourg, who told the Maid of 



Orleans to the English, and CamiUe Desmou- 
lins, were natives.] 

The next station is Essigny-le- Petit (5 miles). 
Then Fresnoy-le-Or&nd (5 miles), the nearest 
station for Guise, above mentioi ed. BobaiXl 
(2^ miles), 6,980 inhabitants. 

BUBlgny (Sf miles). Here the junction rail from 
Somain (in Route 4), vid Cambrai, falls in. It has 
eight stations— Bebtut, Caudbt, CATraNiiKis, 
Cambrai, Iwut, Bouchain, Loubches, and 
Dekain (used for the Anzin and other coal mlnea 
only) ; none of which are of any importance, except 
Boucliain, a small fortified place of 1,405 souls, 
and Cambrai, as below. It opens a communication 
with the coal mines round Valenciennes. 
[Cambrai, 28§ miles noi*th of St. Quentin, on the 
Toad to Douai, is a sous-prdfecture, in depart- 
ment Nord. Population, 24,122. An ancient 
and strongly-fortified town of the second class, 
in the old province of Flanders ; and seat of 
a bishopric ; but it was an archdiocese when 
held by the excellent Fenelon. 
Cambrai was the Roman Cameracum, and the 
head of a district called Cambr^sis, held by the 
bishop as a fief of the German empire. It 
stands near the source of the Escaut, or Scheldt; 
and has a citadel of Vauban*s, on a hill, which 
was occupied by the English in 1816. Notre 
Dame bridge leads out on one side. The new 
Hotel de Ville A-onts the large Place d'Armes 
(exercise ground). On the Esplanade is a 
statue of Baptiste, the inventor of the cambric, 
so called. At the Cathedral, which replaces 
one razed at the Revolution, is the monument 
of Fdn^lon with another of Bishop Belmar, 
both by David. Little remains of F^nelon^s 
Palace. Notice St. G^ry*s Church, the clock 
tower of St. Martin : a Military Hospital, a 
College, a Public Library of 85,000 volumes, 
Theatre, and several gable-flronted houses and 
public buildings. An alliance or league was 
concluded here in 1508, by France, Spain, and 
Austria, with Pope Julius II., for spoiling 
Venice of her continental possessions. Mon» 
ttrelet, the historian antiquar)', and General 
Dnmonriez, were natives. Fine linen, eambrict 
(to which this town first gave the name), la<- 
thread, Ac., employ many thousand hf 
Here the St. Quentin Canal begins, ffc 



?? 



BBAD9HAW ILLUBTE4.T£I> 



[Sec. 1, 



De France j DeryiUIer et. du Commerce. A 

' line' (20 milM) Tras opened \u 1887 to.VUlen- 

Ontreauz, and another (22 miles) to Catll- 

, Ion, vid lie Caieau.] 
Le Gateau (5f miles), or Le Gateau Gam- 

br^SlB, on the Selle, is best known for the Treaty 
of peacQ, made )^S9, between Philip of Spain and 
Henry II. of France. It was the head-quarters of 
the Duke of Wellington in 1815. Marshal iiortier^ 
to whom there is a statue, was boui here. Popala< 
tion, 10,544, in the coal mines, Jtc. It bad a castle 
or Chateau built by Bishop Hallais. 
[Solesmes (5 miles from Le Gateau, along the 
Valenciennes road), on the Selle, has the clois- 
ter, &c., of an Abhitf of cid date, with a modern 
church, having a spire 213 feet high. Popula- 
tion. 6,24^. Linens and muslins are made, 
be/)ides soap and leather.] 
Laudrecles (T^mlles), a small fortified town, 
:irith an Hotel. Tomb of Marshal Clarke, Duke 
of Ffltre, in the church. Population, 8,867. 

Aulnoye (83 miles), from ^vhlcll a rail to Valen- 

ClffTIWfflF vid Le Quesnoy was opened 1872. 

il^e Quesnoy (6 miles), a fourth class fortress, 

on a hi^, in a wide plain, near Mormal Forest, 

with an arsenal, a curious church, a nail 

factory, iui. It was taken by Prince Eugene, 

1712, taken and retaken, 1793, and occupied by 

the Allies, 1815-18. Kail open to Lille. 

Ayeaneg (I2 miles), a station near the Roman 

AviOttOi; a sous-prefecture and fortilied town, 

on the Sambre, on the Belgian frontier; taken 

by the Prnssians, 1815. It has a chprch, with 

a tower about 820 feet high, Hdtel de yille, 

clock tower, Ac^ and is noted for prepared 

boar$' heads. Population, 4,574.] 

Hautmont ai mues). 

.• Maubeuge (2| mllcs), a small frontier fortress, 
ou the Sambre, with a population of 18,863, and 
piapufactures of fire-arms, nails, iron, 4cc, Coal 
$lid marble are got near. The Austrians were 
defeated here, 1798. New forts have been built. 
ifoM.- Grand Gcrf. From Maubeuge the direct 
line to BrOMeUl runs via Feig^ies, Qu^vy, and 
Jklons, from which latter place it is 88 miles to 
^rnssels. Line to Villers-sire-Nlcole. 

Jeumont (6 miles), a French douane. Across 
the Belgian frontier is Srquelines (i^ mile), 
AnntKQf douane. Thence to 



Gliarlerpt (18 miles); at Cbatelinei^u, ^^^il^ifr 
there is a connection with the Acoz rolling' millSj 
Hence to Waterloo, ant] BrUMell. 45 miles (the 
Maubeuge route is preferred) ; also to 

Cologne, vid Namur, Li^ge, and Alx-la-Oha* 
pelle. (See Bradihaw's ffand^Book to Melgium.) 

Paris to Dammartin, Solssons, Laon, Ver- 
Yins. Hlrson, M^zi^res, and Glvet. 

Constructed by the Ardennes Company in 1857. 
With that from Reims to Mdzi^res, it fills ^> the 
departments of Ardennes, &c., between the Northern 
and Eastern systems. 

The stations out of Paris are I«e BOUTget 0-^^^. 
scone of fighting in the Paris sorties of Janunry, 
1871), Aulnay-l^S-Bondy (where the Bendy 
branch comes in — Route 54), SeYTan and Mitry, 
followed by 

Dammartln-Juilly (22 mlles from Paris). 
Correspondance to Juillj, where is a College, 
founded, 1688, by the Fathers of the Oratory. 

Then follow Le Plesflifl-BelleTille (at 8f miles 
is ErmenonvlIIe, page 284), Nanteuli-le-Hau- 

doln, Ormoy, and 

Gr6py-^n* ValOlB (I6 miles ftrom Dammartin), 
founded 10th century, with St. Arnoald's Abbej*. 
It was the capital of the Yalois country, and a strong 
place, having a palace called Bouville. Only one 
(St. Denis, with a good choir) of its five churches 
remains, with ruins of another; also a tower of the 
ebftteau. The English took it 1431, aqd the Lear 
guars, 1588; but it is best known for the ti'^tp of 
1544, between Francis I. and Charles V. 

The next station, VaumOlSe, is followed by 

Vlllers-Ootter^tfl (l l miles n-om Crtfpy), in the 
forest of Rets; has a chftteau restored by Francia I. 
(on the site of one burnt by the English), now » 
depOt (le mendicity, or poor-house, for the district. 
Near it are remains of Longpont abbey church, 
founded in the 12th century. General Dutnaa 
(called the French Codes, for his defence of Brixcn 
Bridge), his son Alexander Dumas, author of Monte 
Crista, and Otto, the statesman, were natives. 

A line from here to Compi^gne (23 miles) passes 

PierrefondB. 

[i2| miles south-east of Compi^gne, near one end 
of its forest, where are the picturesque walls and 
towers of Pierrefonds Castle^ on a hill, lately 



'**'fteji I* " ^/itef si, J^*^^ 'nen fn^ '" /are fj, ^"*'*^ round tn*« ^'^e- palace, j, 



"■'••re,. : """••CI "*'"•«<« byT"'"""". 
n.„4"' '«".«». ,';*,"«* «. 8.; ".^-'Hy the 






toil«n« "'*'««t» iiH " ^•''v^i "J" the 



Population, U,Q74. 

uT'Z^ Croix d'Or , Croise. : 

Compifegno (pag« !«), 96 miles. 



T* , ^d it w.„ . . «c^ f/.« ^ from * .. . »n. I followed by eUaUvelhUrwsl, dacy-MoilB. ^nd 

I.aon,, 22 miles from Soissous, 87 miles from 
^''is, where the branches to Rheims and Tergnler 
'^^ake a junction. Buffet. 

^oters.-~L,(L Ilurc : doTEcu; de la Banui^r^.'. 
^ I*opuIation, 14, 129. Capital of department A\sne 
v*ii the old province of La i?We), a. fortified "toy«»i 
*^d formerly seat of a diocese, on a rocky bill Tl^ 
'^et above sea level, in a fertile wiao country ha^^ 
^^ay between the Aisne and Ols©. xt was tl^ 
^nclent Laudunutn, and as it stands lii^^ti tb.e a\v.' 

e old walls ana rampM 
all sides" 






*»ncient Lauduntim, and as it stands lii 

^een, though healthy. The old walls 

Command a succession of prospects on all s 

The Cathedral Church of iJotre t>amo Vu WO 
^eiuarkablo b,,ilc|in-, is an excellent vin if ormsp''^ 
'^e„of the ^ayly PQlutcd style in K,-nn! 



ice 



u 



BBADSHAW'fi ILLU8TBATED 



[Seel 



1 tth and ISth ccatttfiea. It hM five towers ; portalt 
Iderced w ith deep entnincef (three in the west front i; 
fltalned rose and other windows, and seTcral orna- 
mented side chapels. St. Martin's Cliurch is as old 
as the 12th century, and has two {^ooi towers. The 
abbey of St. Martin is now the Ildtel Diea. 

Here are also the Prefecture, which was part of 
the Bishop's Palace; Hotel de Yillc; library of 
35,000 Tolnmes; moseum; a new citadel to the 
east of the town; and tho Tour Pench^c, or 
Leaning Tower, near Porte St. Martin. 

Lothaire I., St. Rem!, and Marshal Serrnrier were 

bom here ; a itatna has been erected to the last 

near the H6tel de Yilie. Charles the Bold made it 

the capital of his Prankish kingrdum; and it was the 

■eat of a bishop, who afterwards came to be styled 

Duke of Laon. The caves in the rock are worth 

notice. It wastaken by the Allies in 1814-15. The 

Fort capitnlated to the Germans, September, 1870. 

As they entered the citadel, the powder magazbie 

exploded, kilUngSOO French troops and 50 Germans. 

[From Laon the rail to Tergnier passes Orepy- 

Oonyron (6| miles), flrom which the glass 

works of Bt.Gobain, and the old castles ofCoucy 

and Anisy (Route 5) may be visited; and La 

F^ (71 miles), on the Oise, the seat of the 

oldest Ariittety Sehool in France (1719), and a 

fortified post, Uken by the Allies, 1815. Here 

are an arsenal and barracks. Twgxdw, 4 

miles further, is on the Paris and St. Quentin 

line, as in Route 5. i^T This Tergnier-Laon- 

Reims line forms a portion of the direct 

expresses from Calais to Basle, which do not 

Hop at Reims.] 

[From Laon to Reims the rail passes Ooiioy- 

Leo-Eppea (7 miles), st Erme (4i miles), 

OnlgniOOOrt (8i miles), near the Aisne, and 
Loivre (6i miles). Beinu Uef mUes farther, 
see description in Route 55.] 
Dorcssr-Mortien (9 miles), where a branch 
along the Serre goes off to Cr^cy-BUr-Berre, 
Pont-4-BaC7, VenUmy, and La F^re ; con- 
necting the Laon and Hlrson line with Laon and 
Tergnier. 
'Xarle (6 miles), on the Serre, population, 2,405. 
▼•rylng (9 miles), on the Yilplon, a small place 
mnd sous-pr€fecture of 3,388 population, frequently 
ravaged in the civil wars of France. Henry IV. 
"^ II., of Spain, made peaoe here, 1598. In 



the chapel of the hospice, founded 1570. Iqr Jecquea 
de Coney, is a picture by Jonvenet (St. Charles 
BorrcMneo dnringthe Plague of Milan) ; and another, 
by the same hand, is In the parish church. 

At Hinon end Aaor, Hi miles farther, are 
junctions with the lines to M^zi^res, Glvi't, Charle- 
rol, and Aulnoyc (see Route 55). 

Paris to Oreil, by Fontoise. 

There are two starting points, by different lines, 
meeting at Brmont, viz. :— 

1. From the Gare du Nord, in the Rue de Dun- 
kerque, to St. Denis, as in Route 1. 

[Abn to the north-east, on the Crould, has 
an old unfinished ch&teau, of the last century, 
built by Garde-des-Sceaux Gord keeper) 
Machault. A little further Is Goneut (page 10), 
birth-place of Philippe Augu9te, 11C6, and for 
a long time famous for its bread. At 5^ miles 
north is Ecotten ch&teau, on a hill, built in the 
Renaissance style, with high roof, pilasters, &c. 
Latterly it belonged to the Prince of Cend^.] 

Bplnay, or EplnayHnir-Sttine (3 mOes), a 

station on the Seine, has many country-houses, 
with that of Brfiche, which Gabrlelle d'Estr^es, 
Henry IV.'s mistress, lived in. Fourcroy, Lac^p^de, 
Marquis Somariva, &c., resided here; and Mad. 
Houdetot, at Ormesson. A connection with Mout- 
■Onlt Is open. 

Eni^eil-leB-BalllS (2 miles), on the lake of 
Enghlen, Is noted for Its tvlphur springi, used be- 
twei^n June and September; and has a large bathing- 
house, ball-room, Ac It Is a favourite excursion for 
the Parisians, as it combines the amusements of 
boating, donkey-racing, rambling In the forest, and 
eating tho delicious cherries off the tree In the sea- 
son. Trains come up almost hourly. The springs 
were discovered in 1768, and are about 60* temp.; 
the neighbourhood is very pleasant Ifotel.—Dea 
Quatre Pavilions. 
[tfontmorency (3 miles north), by a short 
branch line, a pretty place on a hill, founded 
1008, by Burchard the Bearded, a robber 
chieftain of this part It gave name to a noblo 
house, the premier Christian Barons, as they 
used to be called ; and came to the family of 
Cond^ with the title of duke, to which Louis 
XIV. added that of Enghlen, after the above 
place. 



Boule 1a,'] 



tlAND-BOOK to FRAXOfe. 



The Urg« Gothic Church of the 14th century 
hni some goo* stained (lass. One walk 
through the chestnut Forest leads to Ecoucn, 
past Mont Louis, and the HermUage vhere 
Roosseaa wrote his Emlle, Ac. Grfetry, the 
composer, died in it] 

Three miles further is Ermont (see below). 

2. From the Gare St. Lazare by the Rive Droite 
RailvxMy. 

Asnlerea (2J miles); chateau, 18th century, 
and park; pretty villas. The line to Versailles 
mas off to the left, then that to Rouen. 

BolS Colomlies and Colombes. Then across 
the Seine to 

Argenteull(U mleX population, 8,100; on the 
Seine. Large vineyards here. 

SannoiS (2 miles). 

Ermont (if mile), in the neighbourhood of 
Saanois, Montlignon, Domont ; Andilly, a fine spot 
In Montmorency forest; St. Prix; and ^auftMne, in 
a pretty valley of the forest, near an oak planted by 
Franklin, who lived here, as did St. Lambert and 
Rousseau. St. Uu-Tavemey (2 miles north), where 
Mad. de Genlis had a seat in which the last Duke of 
Bourbon hung himself, 1880. After Mad. de Genlis, 
It became the seat of Queen Horteuse (Duchess of 
St. Leu), mother of Napoleon III., who, out of love 
to her memory, began, in 1851, a handsome new 
church, on the site of the old Gothic building. Here 
rest his father, Louis, King of Holland; his grand- 
father, Carlo Bonaparte; and other members of the 
family. It is reached by a short line from Ermont, 
which goes on to Valmondoia by B^zancourt. 

TtaaeonyUle 01 mlle), in a very attractive 
part of the valley of Montmorency. 

PontOlae (2J miles), a sous-prefecture of 7,442 
persons, in department Seine-et-Olae, on a rock, over 
Ue Qise (where the VIonne Joins), here crossed by a 
bridge or pont, which gave it its present name ; 
corresponding with the ancient one, Brica-IsarK. 
It was hild by the Normans, and by Talbot, 1419-41, 
who took it by a ruse de guerre, viz., dressing his 
men in white when snow was on tho ground. St 
Maclou's church is ancient, and has an alarm bell, 
with an in«:,ipUon on it. There are also a large 
Hospital, Palais de Justice, and a library of 3,000 
Tolumes, besides remains of Its old wallsand a castle. 
Trade in com, Bour, and calves. General Leclerc 



was a naUve; as was Plaipal, an alchemist ana 
illuminator of the 14th century.. 

lIoteU.—Dvi Grand Cerf; des Messageries. Rail 
to GIsors, Chaumont, Goumay, and Vernon (see 
Route 8). 

CChaunont-Olse (82 miles north-west), on a 

hill, topped by the Gothic church, whence ther* 

Is a wide prospect. The bouses are of good 

brick. Blonde lace, leather, Ac, are made; and 

there are large fairs for cattle and horses.] 

St Ouen-rAumdne (li mile). Church of 

11th century. Ruins of the Abbey of Maubuisson, 

13th century. 

Anvers (41 miles), on tho Qise, has an old con- 
spicuous church, 13th ccnturj-. 

Valmondoia (2 miies). 

Isle-Adam (4i miles), so called from an island in 
the river, on which stood a chftteau, built 1200, by 
the seigneurs, one of whom was the famous Grand 
Master of the Knights of St. John, Philippe de I'lle- 
Adam, who held out so long at the siege of Rhode?, 
1522, against 200,000 Turks. Its chfiteau afterwards 
came to the family of Cond^. 

Champagne (2 miies). 

Penan-Beanmont (l f mile). Beaumont-sur* 
Oise has a tower of the old castle, which once 
commanded the river. Branch rail, vid Chambly, 

I to Mem. 

Boran (4 miles) and Pr^cy (3 miles). 

8t. Len d'Esserent (2 miles). Church of 12th to 
18th centuries. Cloister of a Priory of 12th century. 

Grell m miles). See Route 1 . 

ROTJOTB r-A.. 

Paris to Oreil. Beaavais, Tr^port, and 

Ctonmay. 

By rail, £8 miles to Beauvals. 

Crell, as In Route 1 . The intermediate stations, 

Moiiy, HelUeSy Hermes (which connects with 
NoaiUes and Persan-BeauQiLont), and Bocby- 

Cond6, as the lino ascends the Th^rain, are of 
no importance. Then comes 

BEAUVAIS. 

22^ miles from Creil ; 54| miles from Paris. 

Hotels.— Du Cygne; d'Angleterre ; de I'Ecu. 

1^" Chief Objects of Notice.— Cathedral— St. 
Etienne*s Church— Hdtelde VUle— Bishop's Palace 
—Tapestry Factory— Old Towers, in La CU4. 

Papulation, 19,882. Chief town of deftr 




r 



26 



BRABSHAW'S ILLUaTRj^TS;} HAKP-.BOO^: TO FRANCE. 



[S«f. \^ 



Oise, and a bishopric, with a trij^unal de preiQl^re . 
instance, college, societies of agriculture and arts, 
and manufactures, &c. It stands in a fertile yalley, 
surrounded by vineyards, on the rivers Th^raia 
and Avalon, which turn many mills. 

This very ancient place was the Romap Casiwro- 
magus or Bellovaci, which joined the league against 
Csesar, without success. It gave name to the insur- 
rection of the "Jacquerie," in King John*s time, so 
called after ope Jacques, a man of Beauvals, who 
headed the mob against their feudal oppressors. 
The English besieged it, 1472, but were repulsed by 
Jean Ligni^re. It was again attempted by Charles 
the Bold, with 80,000 men, in 1473, when it was 90 
well defended, by the valour of Jeanne Lalne, or 
Jeanne ffachette, and the women of the town, 
that they have tai:ea precedence of the men, iu an 
auQual procession, in October, ever since. This 
heroine's picture and Banner aro in the Hotel de 
Ville; and a bronze statue vfM erected to her, 
1851, in the Grande Place. 

In La Citd, the oldest pai*t, s^ome round towers gf 
solid construction may be seen, as ancient as the 
3rd or 4th century. The ramparts of the ISth 
century are laid out as promenades. You may 
notice a great number of timbered houses, curiously 
curved, with their gables turned to the narrow 
streets. 

St. Pieire Cuthe^rt^ Ui Rue St. Pierre, with l^s 
biuttresses and pinnacles, is the groat object of at- 
traction; and was begun, 1225, but is incomplete, 
having no nave or steeple. The latter wa<» over- 
turned in a storm, 1574. A fine rose window stands 
over the entratice, in the south porch, which is full 
of niches and other ornaments. The magnificent 
choir is 61 feet broad, but 145 feet high ! so that 
in this respect it exceeds that at Amiens, by 13 feet, 
and  Westminster by about 57 feet. It Is the 
highest choir, or roof, perhnps, In the world. The 
transepts were built 1500-65. The long narrow 
windows are richly stained. In the chapel is the 
kneeling effigy of CaMlnal' de Porbin Janson, by 
Coustou; and a piece ol tapestry, the " Healing of 
the Paralytic.*' One part, called the Eglise de la 
Basse CEuvre, on th4 west aide, is older than the 
lUh oentnry. 



j$t EtiennA{^i. Stegpiheiv) ia > Tr»a8itto» churcn, 
older than the cathedral, with gQQ^ stained windows 
of the 16th century. Formerly this town had three 
abbeys, seven convents, six collegiate and thirteen 
parish churches, with a commandery of St. John. 
&c., attached to it. 

The^»'<ftqp*« Palace, now the Prefecture, is in the 
caatlo style, with towers, &0. The Mdtel <h VUUy in 
the Grande Place, is a fine, regular building, with - 
an Ionic f^ont, built. 1754. There are also, a 
public Library, of 13,000 volumes; theHdtel Dien; '■ 
theatre; cavalry barracks; and the government' 
Uig^uUry Xofftory^ ioupded by Colbert 

L'lle Adam, Grand Master at the siege of Rhodes, ' 
was a native. Small canals and branches of the 
Thdraiu run through the town. Its manufactures 
arc woollens, flannels, good carpets, tapestry, shawls, 
Utrecht velvets, coverlets, ft-lt for hats, cotton 
thread, black laee ; and it has a commerce in grain, ' 
wine, woollen and other goods. The Germans 
oeoupied the town, 1870*}. 

There is an alternative line from Paris to Beau- 
vals, 48 miles long, via St. Denis, (page 10), . 
Epinay, Bcouen, Montsoult, Persan-Beaumont, 
Meru, find Warluis. From Beauvals the rail U 
open to Gisors (21 miles) — see Route 8; Gournay 
(page 28); and to Tr^port, 116 miles from Paris, ^ 
by the direct line through St. 0mcr-en:Chau8see, 
Grandvllllers (below), Abancourt (on the Rouen, 
and Amien? line), Aumale, Gamaches, and ^u, 
(See Route 1.) Rail also to Cr^vecceur and ^ 
Amiens. ^ 

CGr^Tecceur (^2^ miles north) has the fine o\A 
brick Chateau of its seigneurs; and in tho.^ 
church are good fragments of the tomb of 
Admiral Bouniyet, the favourite of Francis 1. 

QnmdYUUerB (? mllea north-west of thia, on : 
the Paria^Tr^port line, viA Reauvais) ^a%. 
founded, ISlft, by a bishop of Beaovaia and. 
hat near it the caatle of DanMrancovri, a 
curious seven-storeyed buildhig, with battle- 
uienta and comer towers, 106 feet highf-^-and 
the pretty CMteau qf Sarcus, built 1632, for. 
i»e of the mistresses of Francis I.] 



SECTION II. 

- I 

ROUTES TO THE NORTH-WEST AND WEST. 

IN CONNECTION WITH THE CHSMIK DB FER DE L'OtJEST, or Western Ballwaj? 
System of France; supplying mantes, rouen, Dieppe, havre, evreux. 

CAEN, CHERBOURG, VERSAILLES, DBEUX, CHARTRE8, LB MANS, ALENCON, 
LAVAL, RENNES, AVRANCHES, ST. MALO, BREST, Ac, IN THE OLD PROVINCES OF 
NQ&MANDY, UAIME, AND BRITTANY. 



EOXJTE 8- 
Dleppe to Rouen and Paris. 

Bjf rail, 125| miles. The line comes 4ow)i to 
the waterside landing. Trains, iu ^^ to 7i hours. 
EaQh paaseuger is allowed 30 Hil<i or about CClbs. 
of luggage, free. A direct line to Paris, SO miloa 
shorter, is open by way ol Neufuhltcl, Gisors, <bc. 

BISPFE (64 miles from Newhavcn). 

HoTBLS.-:-Hotel Royal, facing the sea, 19 a first- 
rate hotel, in an admirable situation. 

Grand Hotel des Bains, good in every respect. 

Hotel Bristol, facing tlie sea, and next to the 
Baths; D. Autin, proprietor. 

Do la Plage, facing the sea, and close to the Baths. 

Hotel des Etrangers ; de la Paix. 

Grand Hotel. 

Hotel du Nord and Victoria; du Rhin and 
Newhaven ; d6 Ijondres. 

The Douane is at the railway station, close to th6 
quay ; baggage of travellers direct to Pa rid need 
not be examined till they get there. 

Metidtnt Xn^Uh Vice Consul; English Church 
Service; and Rmdent Physician. 

Post and Telegraph Office, Quai B^rigny, ami at 
tbQ Station. 

I®" Objects op Notice. -The Castle — Pharos- 
Baths — Statue of Duqucsue — the Pollet — Churches 
of St. Reuiy and St. Jacques. 

Population, 22,771. A fishing port, sous-pr^fec^ 
^ure (department of Seiue-Inf^rieurc), and bathing- 
place, the nearest to Paris, and within six hours of 



Newhaven. It stands ia a gap ol^ the chalk clifM 
of the Channel, where the Arques, B^thune, and 
Aulne fall into the sea. Close to the edge of thes^ 
cliffs, on the wett sifle, stands the old CastU (now 
a barrack), I'ebuilt 1438, on the sUe ol an earlier 
structure; the conduits for supplying water to 
Dieppe are in the ditch. It commands a good pros' 
pectf and overlooks the baths. 

June to September Is the bathing season here. 
There Are bathing machines, hot and cold baths, 
Ac, at th« EiahHssement des Bctins, at the east end 
Q^the cHlfs, a range which includes a well laid 
out garden, assembly rooms, with a theatre, kc.\ 
all under tlie direction of a Physician Inspector-. 
A ball every Saturday. '- 

The Harbour at the north end of the town, the 
safest In the channel, is entered between two 
piers, one of which carries a light, or phamsi, kept 
for more than a century by the Bousard family, 
who are celebrated here for the number of drowning 
persons they have saved. This harbour incluue| 
au Avaut Port, and floating Basin, and is scoured 
by means of a bassiu de retcnue behind. It wil^ 
hold about 200 craft, up to 1,200 tons buideu. ; 

A large street, Grande Rue, leads from the qintSb 
towarils the Castle at the other cud. The bouses tae 
chiefly of brick, with high-pitched roofs and bal- 
conies, mostly built since the Englu»h bombarded it 
in 1694. The Barre faubourg is tlie quietest part. 
There are six Places or squares, the principal, or 
Place Nationale, having a Statue of Pugves^e (a 
native), erected in 1844 ; and there are as many as 
68 fountains, supplied by an aqueduct thrgj jniles 



f 



S8 



BRADflUAW'fl ILLUSTRATBD 



[Sec. 2, 



longr. The (ithermeti lire In Faubourg Polfet, which 
ii worth TiBitiiig; here, as in •everal other plact a, 
they remain a race distinct from their neigphljours. 

Among the huildings are, St. Remy't Gothic 
church, near the castle, rebu'lt 1500-48; St. Jaique* 
on the site of an abbey, a Gothic church, with but< 
tresses, some food carvings, and towers, whence 
yon get a fine prospect; HOtel do Ville, near the 
Maison Quenonille, the favourite residence of 
the Duchess of Berry, when she came here for 
bathing. There is a public library oril,000 volumes, 
with a naval Mttaeum ; and a Navigation school in 
the Pullet. 

Dieppe figures in the history of geographical pro- 
gross. Its seamen discovered Canada, and conveyed 
the first settlcra to Senegal, where they (bunded a 
port, called Petit Dieppe. Henry IV. was here 
before the battle of ArciILM 0aJtl6 (see below), 
in 1589, when he defeated the Leag^uers under the 
Duke of Mayenne. In the 1 6th century Dieppe had 
a large foreign trade. Francis I. visited it in 1683, 
and was entertained by the merchant Ango, whose 
teat, or manoir, still remains at VarengeviUe(6 miles), 
not far from which Is Cape TAilly Light, 804 feet 
high. The town waa occupied by the Germans,! 870. 

There is a government tobacco factory. Lace 
and ivory trinkets (at St. Nicholas) are made. 
Oysters are eaten at the Fish Market, near Cours 
Bourbon. 

High waterattheoioon'B fuUand change, lOh.SOm. 

The tonnage of the port is about 500,000. 

Steamer to Newhaven daily. 

The direct rail to Paris, via Pontoise, 105 miles 

long, passes Arquev^ Bures, Nenfchfttel-eit- 
Bray (below), Forges-les-Eanx (page 88), at 

the connection with Rouen, Abanconrt, ftc, SOT- 

qaenx (page 8), Qonrnay (below), QlBors (page 

85), Liancourt (page 9), Pontolse (page 25), and 
Argentevil (page 87). 

[Neilfcllft>tdl'^e&-Bray(17i miles east) isasons- 
pr^f. of 4,006 souls, on a wooded hill-sido, on 
the fine valleyof the Btfthune; and is noted for 
its excellent cAerM, of three sorts, viz., Bondons^ 
from pure cream, the second, called Hearts 
of Bray (the district around), and the large 
round cheese. It was called Driencourt when 
'^enry I. of England built his new castle 



(XeufchAtel) here ; which suffered In the wars 
of the League. At Mesni^res chftteau they 
show his room. There is a church, with painted 
glass; also manufactures of wool, pottery, cot* 
tun, glass, and a trade in cheese, beer, and 
cider, Ac. Hotels. — Du Grand Cerf ; du Lion 
d'Or. 

Qoornay, or Goumay-en'Brap, a small place on 
the Epte, and the Dieppe road, may be noticed 
as having given name to the ancestors of the 
Gumey family, in Norfolk.] 

Leaving Dieppe, the Rouen line passes through 
the Appeville tunnel, 6,889 feet long, ventilated by 
six shafts; then the village of St. Aubin-sur-Scio, 
church llth to 13th centuries, to 

LongUATlUe (92 miles), on a stream which runs 
to the sea, near Dieppe. The station occupies the 
site of an abbey, part of which is now a factory. 
Not far fh>m the latter, on the east, is the ruined 
Oastle of Arqaes, on a hlll top, below which 
Henry IV. gained a great victory over the Leaguers 
and the Duke of Mayenne, 1589. It was built in 
the llth century, with comer towera, &c., and is 
noted in the history of Cond^*s sister, the beautiful 
Duchesse de Longueville. The church is worth 
notice. 

Auftky (6 miles), in the industrious and charming 
valley of the Scie, which the railway crosses and 
recrosses above twenty times. Its church and the 
Virgin chapel deserve attention. 

Saint-ViOtor TAbbaye (8 miles) Ukes name 
from a very ancient abbey, of which the church is 
left. Outside this is a coloured statue of William 
the Conqueror, 18th century. 

The chalk hills and valleya of the Fays de Caux, 
towards the summit of the line, are now traversed 
by several deep cuttings and embankmenta, the 
most remarkable of which is Frichemesnil cutting, 
7,874 feet long, 62 deep. 

Clares (6i miles); branch to Havre and 
Amiens, 

Monfllle (9| miles), a centre of factories, up the 
Cailly. Bfonville was dreadfblly ravaged by a 
stonaof wind and lightning, April, 1845. Another 
cutting brings us to the junction with the Havre 
line at 



Koute 8.] 

Malaunay (3| miles), which has paper and cotton 
mills, on the Cailly, here crossed by an Imposing 
Viaduct, 95 feet high, on elgbtarch^s, 49 feet wide. 
Maromme (2 miles), on the Cailly. Population 
3,433» employed In the cotton, paper, and powder 
factories. 
[Aboat 3 miles south is Canteleu, in the Forest of 
Roumare, on a height, near the river, with a 
Chdteau of the time of Louis XIY.; and 1\ mile 
west of this is th^Chureh of the abbey of St. 
Oeorgu de* BoachervUle^ founded 1144, by 
William de Tancanrllle ; it Is a good Norman 
specimen, cross-shaped, with round towers and 
windows (except in the pointed ones of the west 
spires), an east apse, pilasters, Ac, and a tran- 
sition chapter-house.] 
Hence the line passes DwiUe^ where the arch- 
bi shops of Rouen had a country seat ; and Bapeaume^ 
with the Seine in view. Enter two tunnels of 1,167 
feet and 3,118 feet, in the chalk under Cancholse 
faubourg, to the rive droite (right or north bank) 
station in Eue Verfe. From this, two more tunnels 
(the first, 4,823 feet long) lead under boulevards St. 
Hllalre and BeauToisine; thence the line passes 
LeveilM's and other large spinning and dyeing mills 
at DaxnotalfOntheRobec (nearthe church, which 
commands a fine prospect of the old city), to St. 
Catherine's tunnel, 3,445 feet long; then, by the 
ten-arched wooden bridge over lie Brouilly (each 
arch 181 feet span), with Rouen on one side and 
Bon S^cours church on the other, to Sottevllle, 
with large engine works; and from this a short 
branch runs to the rive gauche staUon, at St. Severs, 
in Cours de la Reine, on the south side of the 
town. 

BOUBN. 
88 miles from Dieppe, 65} firom Havre, 73 from 
Amiens, 86} from Paris. There are three termini 
— for Havre, for Amiens (now joined to that of 
Havre) at Boulevard Martalnville, and another at 
St. Sever, or Orand Cours. 

HoTBLs.— Grand Hotel de Paris. First-class, on 
the Qual de Paris; recommended.— See Advt. 

Hotel de la Poste, situated in the centre of the 
town, opposite the Post Office. Garden. Electric 
light. See Advt. 

Hoteld' Angleterre, excellent first-class accommo- 
dation. Grand Hotel de France, Bae des Cannes, 
good accommodation. 



UAKD-BOOK TO FBANCC. 



Grand Hotel d' Albion, on the quay, formerly 
Smith's.. Deserving our best recommendation. 
Table d'hdte at 6 o'clock. 

Grand Hotel dn Nord ; de Normandle. 

Omnibuses from the stations to the town, 30c. by 
day, 40c. by night. 

Eight lines of Tramways. 

Resident English Vice-Consuli American Cmsul, 

Post Office^ Rue Jeanne d' Arc. 

English Church Service^ at Ail Saints* Church, 
He Lacroix. 

IS^Chiut Objects of NpTicB.— The Cathedral 
—Churches of St. Ouen and St. Maclou— -Hdtel do 
Ville— Tour de Jeanne d'Aro— Palais de Justice — 
Grosse Horloge—the Yleux March^— Place de la 
Pucelle (Joan of Arc)— HOtel du Bourgtheroulde— 
Madeleine Hospital— the Douane, Quays, and 
Boulevards— St. Catherine's Hill, for the prospect. 

Population, 1 13,862. This fine old city and port, 
as remarkable for its past history as for its present 
commercial eminence, is the chief town of depart- 
ment Seine- Inf^rieure, in Normandy; scat of a 
military division, archbishopric, college, school of 
navigation, Ac.; and of the French coloured cotton 
trade (Rouennerles) ; and stands in a very agree- 
able spot, on the Seine, at the bottom of a circuit of 
low hills, open to the south, at the outlet of the river 
and canal systems on the Channel side of France. 
By the bending river, it is 76 or 80 miles ftrom the 
sea at Havre; but the direct distance is only 45 
miles. Several green islands, as Petit Gay, La- 
croix, Brouilly, Ac, occupy the middle of the 
stream, which is about 500 to 650 feet wide, and is 
lined with tall modem houses and broad quays, to 
which vessels of good tonnage can now come up. 
Mont Qargan^ or Mont St. Catherine, once a fort, to 
the south, commands a full prospect of the city, 
styled by V. Hugo— 

"• La vilie aux vielUes rues, 
Anx vieiUes tours, debris des races dispames, 
La ville anx cents docherscarillonnantdansralr, 
Le Rouen des chAteanx"— 
which, with its noble Cathedral, its steeples, towers, 
factories, crooked streets, planted boulevards, and 
spreading suburbs Is here laid before the eye. Dar- 
netal Hill, farther off, where Carvllle church stands, 
Is another good point of view; so is that from the 
He Brouilly railway bridge. 




50 



BliAl>SHA\f*S ILLUSTRATED 



[Sec. 2. 



Rouen Is the Rotomagui of Ptolemy, n^hlch under 
"Clevis became the capital of Neustria. Wrolf, or 
RoUo, the Northmen leader (912) made it the head 
of hifl province of Normandie, which Charles the 
Simple gave him with his daughter, and which King 
John, upon the murder of his nephew Arthur, in 
Basse Viellle tower, forfeited to his suzerain, 
Philippe Auguste, 1204. Henry V. took it, 1418, 
before the battle of Agincourt, which laid France 
'at his feet. *' Joan of Arc here expiated the crime 
of having saved her country," being given up by 
"iFrcnch clergy to be burnt for a witch by the Eng- 
lish, 1481. The French retook it, 1449. It was 
given up to Henry IV. 1648, after a siege, iii which 
his father, Antoine de Navarre, was mortally 
wounded. Works were thrown Up on St. Catherine's 
Hill, but the old walls extended (for the fifth time 
since Rollo first built them) by Louis IX. are no^ 
replaced by open boulevards, planted tvith tfeei. 

Rouen was occupied by the Germans, December, 
1870, and made to pay an indemnity. Tt Is to be- 
 pome an Important artillery 'depQt. At DucJair, 
between this and Havre, six English collier* 
anchored in the Seine were bodrded and sunk by 
the German commander for military reasons. An 
ample apology for this proceeding, with compen- 
sation, was immediately offered by the Prussian 
government. 

t 

: Outside, are the faubourgs of Martainville and 
Hllaire (east), Beauvoiaine and Bouvreull (north), 
Cftucholse (west), and the large suburb of St. Sever, 
fm the south bank, where most of the factories Ue; 
Imt 200 to 300 works for tanning, dyeing, iSw., are 
plaeed on the little rivers Aubette, Robec, and 
BotteUe, which creep through the town to the Seine. 

Thifee 8tre«t», running nerth and Boath^ lum^fi 
Rues Grand Pont, des Carmes, and BeauV6Seiii«^ 
form the principal thorougWares, and open a way to 
the 0ftth«dnl> *o. niey form « Dontlnaotts Kite, 
Wl€6 Rue d'ErAtnuMit, to tlie north, >Hrhidh 
with the suspension bridges «ad Brtes fit. fiever and 
d^HKBuf to the fOttthi U about two miles long. 
Parallel wifb tbcee are the Rue de la R6publique 
<nid Rue Jea&ae d'Arc, also busy streeU. 

*!%« new Butpensim BriO^, 646 fcet long, oi^ed 
lit September, 1B86, littngs on a caet-tron nrched 
tower in the middle, f^lSi fc pont-levti w dtiaw. 



bridge for shipping to pass, t^o' plifes, a little 
iibove it, mark where the old pont-k-bateaux, or 
bridge of fifteen boats, crossed, as built, 1626, by- 
Friar Nicholas. Further up is the Pont ctOrlianSf 
between Quftis de Paris and Grand Cours, built 
1811-31, by Lunasson, of six stone arches (the 2nd 
and 5th each 102 feet span), resting in the middle 
on the west corner of He i,acroix, where David's 
theatrical bronze statue of P. Corneille Vras placed, 
1834. Beyond this is the railway bridge ficross He 
BrouiUy, oii ten arches. Qual du HaVre, below 
the suspension bridge, where the steainerir and 
shipping 11^, is a lively spot; the bargies up the 
river lie at Qual de Paris, Ac. 

Grand Cour»^ or Cours de la Reine, on the St. 
Sever side, near the rail, Is another fine promenade, 
4,800 feet long, planted In the 17th century, on the 
site of GrAmmont priory, founded by Henry II. of 
England. Other walks are at Cours Dauphin, 
Avenue du Mont Riboudet, on the Dieppe road, 
and the hills of St. Hllaire, Mont St. Catherine, 
Notre Dame de Bonseconrs, Ac, where you look 
down on the totvn. The climate of Rouen is 
changeable and cold, but healthy in the upper 
parts of it. 

Highly carved mediaeval timber ftnd stone hmitit 
hieet the stranger ht every turn, mostly as old as 
the 16th century ; but the flr«l object of attract iDh 
Is the 

Cathedral of Notre Dame, In Rue Grand Pont, 
begun about 1200 (on the site of that wherein Rollo 
was baptised), by King John, and finished 1509-30, 
by Cardinal d'Amboise. Its length is 434 feet; 
breadth, 105 feet ; length and breadth of transept, 
175 feet by 25 feet; height of nave, 90 feet. The 
Qardhtal built the richly carved ^on/, between the 
r<MMra, ISO feet broad, eonsisiing of three deep por- 
tal9^ irith sijc large windows, a rose window, and 
t.W9 «pir9S above, besides the centi'al porch. Two 
unlike towers, of an older date, flank it, 35d fe«t 
^h ; one, St.Romatn'a, with a low pyramid at the 
top, Jbas the oldest part of the cathedral in its i>a«N», 
and was iiitiahed 1477; the other, with a beaatif ul 
•ight-idded«i(nnh,i8isailed Toatde Beurre^ becamn 
it was built (1485-1507) with the money of 4boae 
who foought Iteve to eat batter in Lent, and to also 
oalledtftfl^ Oivlttiiial d'Amboise, on aeooant of kis 
famous brass clock, whicli WM xaelled dfffr& 171^1^ 



.Route 8.] 



UANfi-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



31 



^ 



for cannon and for tnedala. Those medals, now 
Verf tare, bear the fanatical repiiblican rhyme— 

" Monument de Vanlttf 
D^lrult par rutilit^, 
L'an n. de I'Egalitd.*' 

The ffreat wooden tpire, or lantern, 420 feet high, 
burnt by lightning in 1822, is replaced by ono of 
,c<Mt'iron open work, rising to a height of 496 feet, 
made oi 2,540 pieces of metal, weighing 517 tons. 
The Portal de la Calendre, in the north transept, 
is full of scnlptnres of the life of Christ ; that in the 
soath transept, or ForUU du lAbrairt*, near the 
■Chapter House, it richly decorated with subjects 
from the Last Judgment. In the inside are three 
rose windows, and 180 others, mostly stained, and 
of the 18th century ; and twenty-five side chapels, 
•including the Virgin chapel, in which are Philippe 
de Champagne's '* Adoration of the Shepherd*," 
effigies of Richard L, and the beautiful Renaissance 
marble tombs of Louis de Bt6z4 (husband of Diana 
of Poictiers) by J. Goujon, and of Cardinal d*Am- 
boiae. The inscription on De Briii's monument 
states that it was erected by his "disconsolate 
widow, Diana," who, as she had been an " insepar- 
able and ever faitthful wife" to his bed, hopes to be 
each in his grave! The Caii^iinari tomb (of which 
there is a east at the Crystal Palace) Is a most 
elaborate profusion of carved pilasters, Agtrres, and 
arabesque ornaments, and has the two kneeling 
statues of the Cardinal and his nephew, both arch- 
bishops. Several oT the early dukes, three kings, 
and fifteen prelates are buried here. 

The Archbishop'* Palace^ behind the Cathedral, 
was begun 1461, and finished by Cardinal d'Ambolse, 
though altered since. In the Galerie da Etatt 
are four largo views by Robert. 

8t. Omen*i ▲blMyOliiireh, joiaiiigthc HMei de 

. VUle, is a lOtef dr<B¥»r€ of Qothie art, and one of the 
most beautiful stmcturift teistiog. It was begun in 
1318, by Abbtf HanOargwit, itnd forms a eron, 415 

feet by 83, and 107 feet high to the vault; with flying 
' buttress and pinnacles ; 126 windows, ita three 

row9 (stained with tbe miracles of St. Romain, &c.) ; 
'and an extremely elegant lower of the 1 5th century, 

!{60 feet high to the crown, which rests on a square 

pipnacled baee, and is full of ttactried wiadowa and 
^open work' The west front and rose windows stand 



between small towers, 43 and l\ feet high. This 
front, after remaining unfinished for three centu- 
ries, was completed between 1846-52, from original 
designs by MM. Gregorle and Desinnrets. Rose 
windows are also seen in the transept ; that over 
the south door (which has a host of figures and 
carvings) being the work of Berneval, the master 
sculptor (buried In St. Agues's chapel), who, they 
say, stabbed his apprentice, because he was out- 
done In the opposite window. Eleven cliapels sur- 
round the oval choir (finished 1340) and Its clus- 
tered pillars. In 1794, this beautiful structure was 
for a time turned Into a fhctory for fire-arras, and 
several forges were in full work inside it. 

What remains of St. Oaen*8 Abbey (one of the 
oldest in Normandy) to which the church belonged, 
is now enclosed in the 

H6M d$ rate, which has a simple Corinthian 
fa9ade, built 1818, and grand staircase, with busts 
oflAuIeXV. and the Comeilles. 

Of other Chni«hes (14 being left out of 87) there 
ar^-^r. l/<ic/o«f,noarly opposite the Palace, ranking 
next to St. Ouen'e, and buHt 1472. It has a fincly- 
(»trved triple portal, a dome 154 feet high, much 
stained glass, a good staircase to the organ, Ac. St. 
Patrice, near Boulevard Bouvreuii, built in 1536, 
in the Renaissance style, cross-shaped, with good 
stained windows. St. Vincent, in Rue Jeanne d' Arc, 
In the same style, with a good porch, &c. St. A mand, 
another Renaissance church. In Rue St. Nicholas, 
belonged to an abbey, founded 1030, of which a 
small part is left, covered with wood carvings of 
abbesses; one of whom was Anne de Souvrtf 
(died 1654), Whoso body was found In 1800, un- 
decayed. St. domain, near the railway station 
(rive drolte), built 1679, has the granite tomb of its 
patron saint, whose life Is pictured In the dome, Ac.; 
besides various stained windows which were saved 
at the Revolutioti, ftom the churches of St. Manr 
St. Etienne, and St. Martin, all now turned Into 
magazines, Ac St. Oodard, in Rue de I'^cole, of 
the 16th century, has the genealogy of Christ in 
one of its stained windows, and a painting by 
LetelUer, Foussiu's nephew. 

At St, EloCi, in Place St. Eloi, a church used by 
the Protestants since 1S03, there was a well iu the 
choir, with an iron chain to it, which gave rise to a 
proverb, current here, ''It isas old as the well-rope of 



ir 



^t 



BBADSUIW 8 ILLL'STBATED 



[Sec. 3. 



8t. Klol.** In Roe CluMeli^rre, In the north-wett I over the front; and, in Hie oonrt, YarionseBrriings 
outskirts, is StGerrals'acharch, with a very ancient I and bas-reliefii of lOie Field of the Cloth of Qtrfd 



trypt. Itwasi^tacbedtotheabbeyin which William 
the Conqueror died. St. Nicaise, built 1388, and 
St. Vivien, are not far behind St. Onen's. St^Hilaire 
is near the Bue de Damctai. St. Paul's stands on 
the Coar de Paris, near the river sifle, and includes 
a iragment of the former one in its sacristy. The 
handsome new Church of Notre Dame de Bon- 
-secours replaces a i^lgrim churvh outside the town, 
with a fine view. St. Serer's, in the midst of that 
faubourg, is in Rue d'EUxanf. In this part also is 
St Yon's AiQt du AUindt (Lunatic Asylmn), on a 
large scale. 

The Prificture stands in Rue de Foatenelle, 
so called after the philosopher, whose birth-plaoe 
(marked **Fontenelle est ntf dans cette maison, 
. le 11 Ferrier, 1657 **) is a little disUnce off, in the 
Rue des Bons Enf ans ; while that of his nude, the 
dramatist, stood in the Rae de la Pie (marked '* Ici 
est n^, le 9 Juin, 1606, Pitm Comet/Ze,") which was 
pulled down 1861. The door, which some English 
amateur wished to buy, is placed in the Rouen 
Maseum. The next house to it was inhabited by 
Thomas Comeille, his brother, to whom the author 
of the **Cid*' used to apply for a rhyme when in 
difficulty. 

On the Qoai du Havre are the Douant^ or Custom 
House, the Bourse (Exchange), and Tribunal de 
Commerce, in a building called the Consuls (oppo- 
site Boieldku't statve)^ which contains a hall, with a 
Christ, by Vandyck, and two pictures by Lemon- 
nler, a native of Rouen. Here, too, is the Th^re 
de$ Atitj near the bridge, having an Ionic front, 
with a medallion of the *' Grand Comfcille." The 
TMdtre FranfoU, built in 1793, is in the Yieux 
March^ (or Old Market Place), the oldest in the 
city, where the scaffold is erected. The Cirque is 
near the stone bridge. 

A short turn leads into the Place de la PweUe, 
§0 called after the unfortunate Maid of Orleans, 
who was burnt at the stake on a spot now marked 
by a Fountain and a ridiculous bronze statue of her, 
by Bonet. Opposite it is an excellent subject for 
the artist and antiquary, an old house, called ffCtel 
du BourgtMroulde^ in the mixed Gothic and luiian 
style of the 15th century, with a turret hanging 



(see Ardres) and other subjects. Shrewsbury 
(the French call him ''Scherosbery'*), Elisabeth*! 
ambassador to Henry lY., was lodged here. 

The Rue de la Oroese Horloge, is so called fr<Mn 
the Ciothic Clock Tower, dated 1889-98 (the great 
bell which still sounds the couvre-f«n, or curfew^ 
is a century later) ; it is ascended by 200 atrpc. 
Great changes have taken place here, and in some 
otiier (rfd picturesque streets, to make way for 
modem Improvements— though many old carved 
houses may still be noticed. A little fkrther, lii 
Rua des Carmes, near the Cathedral, is the Bmtau 
dee Finances, now restored as a club, originally 
bunt 1509, and decorated with arabesques, and the 
fcudeFrancCf supported by porcupines. TheiVtlois 
de Justice, one of the most beautiful things in Rouen, 
near the Post office, is a low-pitched (rothic stmd- 
ture, built 1493-9, by Louis XII.*b minister, Cardinal 
d'Amboise, for the ancient Echiquier, or provincial 
States, and lately restored. It consists of a front 
and two wing^s ; the Salle des Procnreurs on one 
side and the Courts of Justice on the other. The 
front, towards the court, is 213 feet long, with 
pinnacled windows in the roof, and an octagon 
tower in the middle; a staircase, built 1607, leads 
to the Sane des Procnreurs, 181 ftet by 53, having a 
woodwork ceiling, compared to the frame of a ship. 

New Library and Museum, with its tower, faces 
Solferino Garden s. It contains the Musie, founded 
1809, with a gallery of French and other pictures 
(open from 12 to 4), and Caffieri*8 statue of P. Cor- 
neille. BihUothique (open daily, except Sunday and 
Thursday) of 118,000 volumes, besides 2,500 MSS. 
A*om the 11th century. Here are D. d*Aubonne*s 
graduel or missal, with 200 paintings, Ac, in it 
(wliich took 80 years to fill, is 2i feet long, and 
weighs 79 pounds); and Bishop Jacques de lieur's 
Livredes Fontaines (given 1525), full of arabesques. 

Many local antiquities and relics, including 
Coenr-de-Lion's heart, in a box, are here, besides 
a collection of natural history and another of 
pottery, open every day, from twelve to four. 

In Rue de la R^ublique is the College, first 
built for the Jesuits, by Cardinal deJoyeuse, whose 



MtEfbIs fntliiB dhapel, which Calherine fle THefflcta 
added, Wr4. BeWtid is the Seminary for priests, 
the Blcet*'e, dr Holise of Correction, is at St. Sever, 
ireMr the t)irracks. Other "barracTcs are near the 
%cfri!iev*rd Murtafnvilte and the general Hospital^ 
m e^tenslre liile, inhere 12,0D0 oirphans and poor 
people arc kept. At the opposite side ol the town, 
In Hue dfe Crosne, is the great hospital for the stek, 
Ike S6tel Dieu, or Mad«l«faie, hnilt 1749-66, having 
600 heds, and a chapel, built 1781, with « dome, a 
Corinthian portico, and two pictujes hy Vincent. 

The JanUn Oes FUntei is near thejsallw&y station, 
and deaeryos a vlsU. The mw J\ardin de Soltf^ino 
la in Bob Hotel de Vllle. Another jwMfc garden is 
heblnd the Hotel de Villfi, with a «orman Tower 
in it. A large well regulated Abattoir, oralaughter- 
house, in the Bue de Sotteville, at Sl.,«eTer. was 
bttlltl835. 

At or close to the site of Basse VieiUeTour (near 

the Quai de Paria), where they say jolm murdered 

his nephew Arthur, are the three Holies, or market 

halls (328 feet long), for corn, linen, cotton tissue?, 

and checks, called Bouenneries, Ac, which offer a 

Very nv61y appearance on Wednesday, between six 

and twelve. To the west is the old Fontaiht de 

tuieuT, built 16T8 ; another, the Fontainc-de-la- 

"Croase, at the top of Sue des Carmes, has Inany . 

^iWbesqtte omameuts about ft; the Fontaine de 

TfrdiX-de-PIerre Is in Rue St. Hilalre ; altogether 

thefe hre 38 Tountafas, fed from four different 

'sources. Of eight open places for Markets, that 

for btttter Ts at Rougemiir (in Rue Bourg I'Abb^), 

where lyrike Richard, in 949, beat the French and 

(Sfcmmns. The'Flower'Market Is inRfte des Carmes, 

'neiartfae normal schodls. The Botilingrin (bowling 

green) In -Beau voisine Boulevard is used for the sale 

df hOTrfdi. The rt>ad here leads op to the churches 

df LongiuUhi a'hd Carville, and LevetnS's spinning 



At Banietal, ncKir the Cfatnnps de foh^ (Fair 
7itAd>, the slte^ the old palace built by Henry V., 
1b the tower of Mal-B'y-frotte (which means, "He 
medaienl tor the worst "), lying on this nide of the 
•*pot yfhere WflHam Longsword, son df Rollo, 
foiftedthe iMople df Cotentln. 

A bng« lionjdn, called 2Wf de Jtahne ^Arc, 
la 'Ufti 6t l^hlDifpe Auguslift's «i«teati, bnttt ltt», 
tad 'tf lii NtfuUft^tmned tittotDk thnukhi^Onvroitt, 



io #ltAlidii« 

the beautiful modern churcli of MoHSi^eOHtv {a 
miles by omnibus) Is perhaps the most perfect 
specimen of Us style eitant. Ecoles de Natation, 
or swimming schools, on lies Lacroix and Petit Glay! 

Besides the Corneilles and Fontenelle, Rouim 
cladoM M natives, Benaenide, the poet; JoDveoct, 
ftesteul^Bttd G^icault, the|)ftinterf»; BoiehUen,tki 
Qompotei:; Count MoUter, MApolifon's mtetoler of 
finance; Armand Carrel; and Louis Brvat^ wh* 
saved the lives of more than sixty pexBons. On his 
house "you read this memorial from his townsmen, 
" A Louis Brune, la Ville de Bouen^** 

Its matmfucture* are the cotton Roumumtieh 
already mentioned, calicoes, prints, linen, ihread, 
flannels, cloth, soap, chemicals, steam engines] 
leather, refined sugar, confitures of^reaifame,4Bc.'; 
and It is an entrepot fqr wine and ^^Irifca, grain,* 
salt fish, spices, dyewoods, cotton, wool, hemp! 
slate, iron, tar, ifac. The shipping and foreign 
trade are over one-half that of Havre. The 
tonnage, ^,A06,d00, has quadrupled since .1871. 
The inasrwen^nts made in the navigation <»f the 
Seine, commenoed in 1845, hAve been continued, 
and the length of the qui>y8 and the acreage of 
the maritune port have been enormously In- 
creased. 

Canveyakces; By rail, to t'^camp, ^kris, Tneppe, 
«ftvrB,fttt«fixtf;Pont-Audemeri«isotti,ftemivalk, and 
Amiens. Steam to Elbtetff,LaU6uine, and Hatre. 

[the liwe to Amiehs, 73 miles loTig, {iasses MtAi^ 
tewmer-'BtlCliy, where the thordlim troiu 
Cleildfii "^c, comes in. Then 

Pbrges-les-Baux. neaV the in'terseeiron df 
this line with the direct line from TaHfi '^o 
Dieppe, and so called because of its -mTubritl 
Waters, In a valley near the Forest ot Bra^r, 
which are drunk from July to September; they 
are tjlear und sparttling, with a temperatuie 
of 4lr*, and have an excelleirt tonic qdaRt^. 
Anne df Austria to<)k them beffore the 'birth 
of Louis XIV.; and after her, JLonis XIU. 
and Richelieu, they were named la Helnette, li' 
Royale, and la Cwdlnale, 0<»^M.^'Dq « o*, 
ton; des Bains. 

iBhen' eome fioAx And 




r 



84 



UttAbSHAVs ILLttfiTRlUMD 



[Sec.3» 



Lcarlng Rpuezi, by rall^ wc cross to dotteville and 
its factory chlmiieys And Workstops ; then comes 
Bt. Btlenne dU BoUVray, and the forest in 
which William the Conqueror was hunting when 
he first heard of the death of Edward the Confessor. 
The next station is 

OlSBel (94 miles), which has a church ifrtth a tall 
tower and spire. Population, 3,948. Thence across 
the Seine by a narrow viaduct on six archee, each 
98 feet span, to 

ToUTTllle (4 mile), where is ft branch rail of 
live miles lo Elboeuf . The total fall of the raUway 
from Paris to this station is 91 feet. 
[The branch rail passes the Seine, close to a sus- 
pension bridge over a bend of the river, and 
reaches 
BltM&Uf. a thriving town of 21,404 souls, among 
cloth factories, ill a valley bordered by a 
chain of hills, which crop out at the chalk 
cliffs of Orival in the river. It has two 
churches, St. Etienne being the older and 
smaller, and both ornamented with stained 
glass ; and it is watered by artesian wells. 
BoteU.^De TEurope; Grand Hotel. 
Steamers to Rouen daily. The raU is continued 

to Brlonne and Bernay.l 
A tunnel 1,140 feet long leads to the next station. 

POllt-de-1'Arohe (84 miles)! to t^e south, across 
the Seine, here spanned by a long 22-arch bridge, 
to wlilch it owes its name, is a pretty place, in 
Ouche district, In Upper Kormandy, and was built 
and forUfied 364, by Charles the Bald, who held 
two councils there. Its high-roofed Church has a 
spire and buttresses, with stained glass of the 14th 
century. The bridge has been rebuilt. Behind 
the village stretches a large forest, La ForSt de 
Bord. 

At VUlers, where N. PoMsin, the painter, was 
bom, 1594, ia a tunnel 5,643 feet long, cut through 
In it' months; another at Veuablos, 1,410 feet long. 
The river makes several islands here. At Manoir, 
on the north side of the Seine, opposite the Eure's 
jnouth, the. railway crosses by a viaduct of six 
arches, each 98 feet span. 
[From Pont-de-l'Archo a branch of the Eure 
rail of 54 mUes to Qlsora (p««(e M), on ♦he 



Bomilly (4 miles), or Romllly-sur-Andelle, and 
Its large copper foundries, on the Andelle, 
which employ 1,100 or 1.200 hands. Here 
Cardinal d'Ambolse's great cathedral clocli; 
was brought from Rouen, and melted down for 
cannons at the bevolntiou. Pass Pont St. 
Pierre to 

Flenry-Bur- Andelle, on the same line, 

miles further up, having good views of the 
valley of the river. 

Cbarleyal, the next station, Is followed by 
MeneaqueTlllt ttatlon, which gives access 
to Lyons-la-Forftt, on the Lieur, near the 
remains of the Abbejf Church of Motiemer^ 
founded by Henry II. of England. Other 8ta« 
tiona towards Oisors are SaUBBay and Etre- 
pagny.] 
St. Pierre-dU-VaUVray (8 miles), near Pras- 
lin Park, Igoville, Andr^, and other chftteanx. A 
branch rail to Lonviers ; thence by coach to Les 
Andelys (below) and Goumay. Evreux (see page 
45) is 13f miles beyond Louviers. 
[LoUVlers (5 miles south-west by rail), a sous* 
prefecture of 9,979 inhabitants, chiefly weavers 
of fine cloth, and an ancient town in the rich 
plain of the Eure, where Richard 1. and 
Philippe Auguste made a treaty, 1196. It wa« 
taken by Edward III., and again by Henry V., 
who dismantled it, except a small part of the 
walls. An old Church of the l2th century, 
partly Norman in Its style; a Knight Tem- 
plar's house of the 12th century; and thnber 
houses (in the old town) are seen; besides 
several factories, dye-works, a bibliotk^que, 
salle-de-spectacle, three bridges, Ac. ffotels-" 
DuMoulon; du Grand Cerf. A line from here 
to Dreuz (p. 69) is part of the Outer Circle. 

Gaillon (94 miles), 14 mile west of the rail, in a 
fine spot, has a House of Correction, the remains of 
the Cliftteau of the archbishop of Rouen, built abont 
1262, burnt by the English, and restored in the 
Bcnaissanoe stylo of the 16th .century, by Cardinal 
d'Amboise, but finally ruined at the Revolution. 
Its gate is now pla,ced in the Palaia des Beaux 
Arts, in Paris, and a painting of it is at tlie pri- 
mate's palace at Rouen. Part of the beautiful pavit 



Bonte 8.] 

This la almost the most Bortherly place In France 
for trm«, a poor sort, from a small black grape. 
Near this Is the Chdteau de Navarre^ built by 
Jeanne of Kararre, 1532, and rebuilt 1686, by 
Mansard, for the Dues de Bouillon, and for a time 
the seat of the Empress Josephine. GrIsolle and 
Rotoirs are also near, and St. Aubyn, where Mar- 
montel is buried. 

[CouRccLLBs is across the river. At 6 miles 
north of it, at the suspension bridge, on a bend  
of the Seine, is 

Le8 Akdilts, a sons-pr^fectare of 6,040 souls, 
near Ch&teau Gaillard, a fine picturesque ruin, 
on a peak, built 1197, In defiance of Philip 
Augustus {gaUlardj moans careless or saucy), 
by Richard Ccbut de Lion, at Petit Anddy, t« 
command the rlrer, and dismantled by Henry 
IV. The Ticious Margaret de Bonrgogne was 
strangled here, 1316, by order of Louis X.; 
and Cardinal Balue shut up his Yletlm, Charles 
de Mellleu, in It. At the hospital, founded by 
the Due do Penthi^yre, Is a plaster figure of 
8t. Main, agahiat which mothers rub their 
children to cure them of colic. Grand Andely, 
on the Gambon, further inland, and an older 
place, grew out of a monastery called AndeK- 
aim, founded by ClothUde, and burnt 1170, 
by the English. Near the curious old chapel, 
called after her (now a vhiegar work), is her 
fountain, into which sick persons and new- 
bom infants ore plunged. The half Gothic 
church has a good portal, stained windows, 
and Lesneur's " Jesus before the Doctors." At 
the Hdtel de Yille is Poussin's "Coriolanus.** 
Blanchard, the aeronaut, was a native ; Henry 
IV.'s father, Antolne de Bourbon, died here, 
1M2, of a wound received at the siege of Rouen; 
T.Gomeille had a honse here in which he died. 
Sir /. K. Brunei^ the constructor of the Thames 
Tunnel, was born at Hacqueville, in this neigh- 
bourhood. Cloth is made, and abkttes (bleak), 
for false pearls, are caught. ffoteli^—Du Grand 
Cerf; de Paria.] 

Vernon (8| miles) belonged to the Norman an- 
cestor of the Vemons, of Kinderton, in England. 
It stands in a fine hollow, at the 22-arch bridge to 
Veraonnet, As a frontier town of Normandy it was 
{onUl«4 by H«lM7n.,«jia f j«<|U9.u.tly 89£f^rQd to tl\« 



HAND-BOOK TQ 9RAKCI. 



waVswith Frahce. An old Tower, built by Henry] 
remains; also a good Gothic chtirch (Notre Dain 
having a carved black marble tomb; and St. Jui 
hospital, or Hdtel Dleu, founded by St. Louis, a 
rebuilt 1776, by the Due de Penthi^vre. It hi 
besides, an artillery depot, and a small salle 
spectacle. To the west Is the charming Park, wj 
Chdteau de Bixy, which belonged to the Orl^a 
family. A tower at Vernonnet Is called Jul! 
Cesar's; the Ch&toau de la Madeleine was the s< 
of Casimir Delavigne, the poet. Population, 8,21 
Hotel-J)u Lion d'Or. 

F)rom Paesr-mr-Elird (see page 44) a bran 
of the Euro line is opehed viA Vemon (abOvt 

distant 12| miles, Qasny, Bordeaux St. dial 

Ac, to Gisors. Coach to Baugon, Corbie, Ac 

Caisors (23 miles north-east), on the fipte, at ti 
Junction of lines to Pontoise, Goumay, ai 
Pont-de-l'Arche; havhig the keep and oth 
remains of a feudal Ctow^te, begun by Willia 
the Conqueror and Henry I. (who receivt 
Pope Calixtus here, 1120), and finished I 
Henry II. (who met Philippe Auguste her 
1188, about a new crusade). Philippe Angus 
fled hither on his defeat by Richard I., \ 
Courcelles, 1198, and was nearly drowned I 
the falling of the bridge. It was at this batt 
that Richard chose "DieuetMon Droit" U 
his motto. The town walls and moats are no 
turned into promenades. A Gothic church « 
the 16th century has a well-carved Renal 
sauce portal, a jubtf and marble figure by Goi 
jon, and stained windows. St. Paer's tower, < 
the 13th century, is outside. Population, 4,46; 
Hotel.— Hq I'J^cu (Crown Piece). 

Prom Gisors the rail is continued HA Trii 
Chdteatt, La Boue, Auneuil, Ealnvittert t 
Beauvais (page 26). 

Further down, across the river, in the Forest c 
Vernon, are Pre$tagny, called I'Orgueilleu 
(the Proud), though it has not much to beproui 
of; and Port-Mort, where Louis VIII. marrle 
Blanche of Castile. The Seine la crowded wit; 
pretty islands here.] 

Leaving Vemon, a skew bridge and a massiv 
9Wl?ankmw^ ^^ psfsed, N«w Mi TKlty (oppg 



r 



9$ 



BlUDSfiAW^S ILLtfflTRAXfil> 



fsec. ii. 



lite'tlM^XIpte'iiidoiifthf not to from CtefnpcfeClMar), 
yott Ifiav^ the prorincdof ICormsffdy and depart- 
mmA Enre, fo«ntier the department offleine-Inf^ri- 
CVN. The next'Btatfon Is 

^MttttilWl (^ mOe^, Whefe a 1>i>an<^ to «he 
C^Uh and tnieifMttiYliiie ennift'dfF. (See Bohte 11.) 

pit'^i miles north, on'the ben^ nikde by the SeSae, 
"^ere crossed by aluuidscMne snspehslon bridge, 
'ft 'La. Roche '6^tty<»i, with 'the l^orman tower'atfd 
thnpA bf'tth old Castle, 'tkken by the English, 
1418; below which is the more mod^hi seat of 
the Boiflteloncaidds, when they thow the bad, 
'povtaraitf'ftnd'famltnie of Heniy IV. Here 
^Prancis deBoaFbon'wa»UUed, by aboxihrown 
on his head, 1545^] 

Next to Bonni^res is a tunnel, 6,700 feet long, 
th!k^liPt*he<^aik,whichtfdBttwentymonthsMa'bottr, 
ihtl neatHy half \ mlllfon 'p^nnds '6f powder, to 
Hdtkb ; 'bio^Ond Which'iii the^pneftty Vfllage of Itotte' 
WHe^ Whi<jh hiis^pB^ o^ the castle tak^n from the 
itdfirii^^ by ^ogaefld&i, *on Ofe irlope Of thoTiver, 
a^ttle fui^^. 

^ HjOKXy (^ milesX close to a forest. Here etands 
the old -high-roof ed briok cTiiUiau in which Bosny, 
'JE^tte de SuUy^ the faithful friend and minister of 
Henry IV. was born, 1^39. It belonged to the late 
l^ocbesse de Beny. 

r(At'ia|'niile8^onth^tlv«8t,'onthe>linetnnn-I>renx 
to Lonvien,'!! 

tl^lil^BieKtafll^, imder a iiiil, on lihe'^nre, 
'ideT^b^ftted for'thteMdtoTy of Heury TV.ttnd his 
WdtCTtwit l5TrtiJe<rti9,*rn Ifi^O, otei- the Leaguers, 
tifnfterthBlrClBptaln-G^iietal, the Duke of If ay- 
enne, assisted 'by the '*1iireling chlralty of 
'€^neldre» and Almatsmib.*' The-fieldlb maiked 
br^TQ^tnld^ Met hifirh. 

*'And th«n we thought on VMfHftoee, slid ^ lalong 
our ran, 
^JBfttiMklbsr fiWiit 'Barlholomeir,' wis vtmiA fi6in 

%tft oi^ ipSa 's«ntl«i ^Bbmts, *^o Frtaelfb^ui Is 

•"^DoWiiriown with eyery if orelgAer, >)tit let your 

iRlltftNfll '<9| miXi^ is a Wirit.'ii^ mfreis ^om 

Paris, 108 from Bonen, on the'deine,oppios)teZifniay. 

It is called la /o2<d,or.pretty,becaaBeof it&pleasant 

'^itation, and is a sous-prefecture, with 7,02t9 souls. 

' -^ Conqueror burnt It, 1087, to reyenge 



hhnselJF on PhOlp, and receiyed the hurt of wMcli 
he died a little while after. Edward III. pillaged 
the town on his way to Cticj. It was 'taken from. 
the English by Dngrnesclin, and by Charles Vtl. 

'Notib -Diime etehrft, with its triple portal, tall 
square towers of diffefcnt ages, lofty nare 105 feet 
high (supported by buttresses), 'dettcote 'ch<rfFj 
pillars. Ac., was founded by Jeanne of France. Of 
another church, St. MacIou, only a beantiful slender 
tower (1340-4) is left "The old Chateau, in which 
PhlUppe Augoste died, was pulled down 17SI. In 
Grand Bue is a house wUch la BeUe Gabiielle lodged 
in whenKenxy IV. came to visit her. He was here 
again with his queen, Marie de Medlds, in 1S09, 
staying at the abore^mentioned Cni&tean, w4iich 
appears to hare been a f aTonrite resort of his. The 
pnbUc Library contains 4,OG0 Tolumes, and there are 
a hotel de yille, seyeral fountains, with some parts 
of the old walls. At LiBiagr^ cm -the other side of 
the -Seine, ipopnlation ^,400, is a hermitage, to 
which pilgrimages are made. A new bridge leads 
out of the town. 

*B9M,^l^ tSnmd -Cerf. 
^Fradehl winh,e<Krh,iefc«Mr, aaatiAblair. 
Intekie is « line .to iParis, >9iA Argentenil i^age 
97), opened 1889, ptte^tlUg LiiQny:(iiboifqi), Ovsgen- 
vBle, JnilerB J^page «7), Veula'n, Olhnn, Vliux, 
Trfel l(ifs^47% -OoiiflanB «<pftS«^7>), and Herblay 
(X««fei7). 

Iftereih^line (o S}W6^, Caen, «tid te(»boarg 
tni^s off rk the bridge of t Urdha (ea^h 'i'il feet 
^n, -fest&i^ oh lie Ohan^f dn). gee ^gfe 44. 
>rAtl&niiI^^ sonth-^est'is 
•JI»<:t, netir the fBu^, %teh a %ing, ehttpbl, and 
OtheyyilMaiUb 0^ the beantfAilX^^^ bnllt by 
(Delornfe, 'Kt Henry the 8«c0nd*s mistress, 
^iane^e^bictiers (burled hei^>, Mid jfiuBed to 
pieces at the BeiroltMOta. Bi^tek is 1^ kll. far- 
ther. <SeeBoniie 15:) 
%iL«rHt ^18 mOes north'), % little yllla^«, ob the 
'Axfbette, In a fertile eom eoimtry, wiOi agood 
church, and some manuf aotiffc^.] 
Epone (5 miles) is near a dolmen. Seyeral Celtic 
and Boman remains have been found. It possesses 
an old Church, and an older seat of the Cr^hyS. 
Coaches to Aunay, fiaule, Kezel. 

i[6lllaa (5 miles) is opposite iKiifdaliz, ii^ere 
the station is, which the rati reaches by a skeW 



Boiitj&S.] 



HAMD-BOOK TO TBAKCE. 



8» 



l^ridge orer Uiq Ruplat stream. To Meulan, across 
the Seine, there is an old bridge, restinir on the He 
Belle. It was a fortified town, which the Due de 
Mayense unsuccessfully hesieged in the cItII wars. 
Qoe of its two churches (it had also a priory and 
conrent) is now a corn-market. Chateaubriand 
bad. a seat h^Xfii ajid M. Guizot was sometime a 
resident. 

population, 2)7;03. 

^(OteiL— BoyaL 

i;At 7 milea north is Visfny CMUau^ which bo- 
longed, to Cardinal d'Amboise, minister of 
Lools XU., and a numificent patron of the 
arts. Juziers^ fiurUiet on, w««k % ^ivitn^-bovyifs 
of the bishops of Cbarti^es.] 

Trlel (3} milesX opposite VemouUlel(norVii side), 
where Talleyrand's brother lived, has an oglval 
church, wHh a centre spire-tower, built by Francis 
I. ; it contains some stained windows, and Pousstn's 
"Adoration of the Magi," which the Pope gave to 
Christina of Sweden. The Princes of Condtf had a 
seat here before the Revolution. The suspension 
bridge Is about 1,970 feet long. Population, 8,661. 
Coach to Taux. 

Here the limestone banks begin to disappear, 
and the scenery becomes somewhat tame. VSl- 
lenxies is passed ; and then 

. SoUiy (& Tai]le&\ at the old 24-arch bridge on 
the river, a country-seat of the early kings, from 
the time of Charles the Bald (860). It has a high- 
roofed Gothic Churchj with buttresses and two slen- 
der spires, containing the font in which, Louia IX., 
Qr Louis de Poissy (from being bom here), was 
baptised, and the tomb of Plillippe, his. brothe;:. 
A.nother church, founded by his son, Philippe lo 
Hardi, 1314 (and destroyed 1793), belonged to the 
Ursuline abbey, where the famous Conference was 
held, 1561, between the Catholics and Protestants, 
Bcza and Peter Martyr attending, on the part of 
the latter; but which led to no result except the 
Massacre of St. Bartholomew. There are also an old 
hospital, and a eentr^ house of ^i^tention, on the 
abbey site. 

IfoteL-T-Dtt Booen. Population, 6,43^ 
AtihOTM (8 miles), iunction of the line from 
Pootoifl^ to Yeiaal^e^ by St Germain. The line 



tThe village of ConflailB Is 8| miles north, 
across the Seine, near the moutk of the Oiea, 
and has a church of the 11th and 13th oen- 
tnries, where St Honoriuswaa buried^ besldei 
a picturesque ChU«aa. Population, l,4GM>.]i 

Halsons (2f mUes), or Maieoni^Latt^ so 

called afterthe banker, whose c^fttean, buiU 1658, 
by Mansart^ was occupied by Comte d'ArtoLs 
(Charles X.), and Mardial Lannes, Duke of Mente- 
bello. Voltaire w:as, here, writing the Marianne, 
when he caught the small-pox. Herbiay, on a 
new Ibie to Paris, lies 5 miles north-east, aovoas 
the river. A wooden bridge brings yon to 
Honllles (H miles) and the pretty vfiUge of 
BezonSf where the rail agahi crosses the Seine 
(which winds three or four times hereabouts) on 
a wooden viaduct the same size as the last, via., 
nine arches, each 98| feet span. The early Frnich 
Idngs had a mint here. 

[A little beyond Bezons is the Junction from St. 
Germains, on the west (see Route 10), and next, 
that of Argenteuil, ftt>m the east, by way of fermont, 
dec, on the Northern line, making part of the 
Ceinture de Paris. 

Argenteuil (2 miles north-west), with a popu- 
lation of 13,889, is at a ferry over the Seine, and has 
partsoftheold walls, with a hospital founded by 
St. Vincent de Paul, and the Ch&teau of Maraii,^ 
which Mirabeau left when in a dying state. It was 
to the Bemardine convent here (founded 666) that 
H^oise retreated after parting from Abdiard.] 

Coloxnbes, a station of the Banlieue line, near 
which RoUin wrote his Ancient Hietory; the neigh- 
bourhood is pleasant. At 

Asni^res, the Rive Droite (right or north bank) 
line to Versailles turns off upthe river (see Route 10), 
among several country houses, which suffered 
in the war of 1870-1. Bere are a well-snppojcted 
Regatta Club and Swimming SchooL The old 
Chftteau is now a restaurant. The ParU sewai^ 
is discharged hei:e. A. bridge, of riveted ^n 
plates replflces om l^ocnt iQ 1^ Th.^. tal^ef ti^o 
line over to 

CLxoHZ-LA-GABSxn, whickwasaooiuitry-«e4t^' 
le hon B<ti DogeiberU who was married here. Tlia 
washervomeo^ an important cl^uis, hold their 
annual Ki.te here, at mi^eofi^tm^f Qn one side a^ 
XealU)[ aod i)M 9oi* ^ 9ojR)pfime; 9t. P«Rts 



98 



fiSADSHAW'f ILLUSTRATKD 



[Sec. 2. 



.CatlMdral and tbe red hilli of Montmorency on 
tho other. Then by two or three short ttinnels to 

LM BMgaoHn, ootaide the Barrftre, near 
tba engine ehopi. Tha terminal, at 

VarlS, la at tha Gare St. Lazare. (See Brad- 
BhauTi Hand-Book t o parU.) 

ItOTJTB 0. 

Savn MiA F^dunp to Bonen and Paris. 

HAVBB, or Le Havre de Grace. 

67^ miles from Bonen, 141} from Paris. 
HOTILI.— Hotel d'Angleterre, Rne de Paris, 134 
and 136; wail situated, opposite the square of the 
Town HaU. 

Grand Hotel et Bains Frascati; good situation, 
close to the harbour's mouth; hydropathic 
astabllshment. 

Hotel Continental; first-class hotel. 

Hotel de T Europe, Rne de Paris. 

Grand Hotel de Bormandle, 106, Bne de Paris, 
and 71, Bue de I'Hdpital. 

Hotel du Lourre, 16, Grand Quai. 

Hotel Blchellen. 

Manor-Honse Hotel. 

AM/atfranM.— Caftf Felix, Place de THOtel de 
VllleTortoni, Place Louis XVI. 

Omnibuses from pier to rail. Tramways through 
the town. Clearing baggage at Custom House, 12 
sous each package. Commissionaire for clearing 
luggage, 3 francs. 

Tram to Ste. Adresse, Ac. 

Bnidmt English Consul. 

EnglUh Church, In Rue Mexico ; American Church, 
In Rue de la Paix; Wesley an Chapel, Rue de 
VHOpltal. 

Post'OtfUe, in Boulerard de Strasbourg. 

Monty Changer, M. Cherallier, 64, Bue de Paris. 

0" Objsots or NoTiCB.— The Dock»->Theatre 
—St. Pierre's House— IngouyiUe Church— La 
UlTe LighU. 

Population, 116,869. Many English live in the 
pretty suburb of Ste. Adresse, where Queen Chris- 
tina of Spain died, August, 1878. Havre Is a 
picturesque town, surrounded by country villas, a 
thriving port, a fortress, sous-prtffecture, packet 
station, &o.^ in department of Seine-Inf$rieure, in 
the old province of Normandy. It ranks aa the 
' ■>ort in Franco I the tonnage In 1893 wa% 
'oarly ono-^hlfd be|ng Brltlsl) •, (^qd its 



harbour is, perhaps, the best in the Channel, on 
the French side. It suffers by competition with 
Bouen, but the canal from TanearvOle has ren- 
dered it independent of the estuary. The outer 
harbour is being enlarged. It stands in a flat 
damp spot, on the north side of theSeine*s month 
(where it is Ato miles wide), 105 miles firom 
Southampton. 

Francis I. walled it round, Richelieu added a 
citadel, Ac, and others have since improved it; 
but, before the 15th eentnry, It was an insignifi- 
cant fishing place, near which Henry V. of England 
landed on his way rto Aginoourt, and whence 
Henry Yn. embarked as Earl of Biehmond. War- 
wick held it for EUaabeth, 1563, but gave it up 
after a long siege; and Bodney bombarded it in 
1759. The old fortifications, which were taken 
down, 1856, by which Ingouville and GraviUe were 
united to Havre, have been replaced by forts on 
the heights around; the site is laid out In public 
promenades. Bue de Paris is the most bustUng 
street, running north and south, across Place 
Louis ZVI. to the harbour. There are many hand- 
some new squares and boulevards; the new 
Boulevard de Strasbourg leads from the railway 
station past the Hdtel de VlUe to the sea; the 
Court de la Republiqne leads to GravlUe on the 
north-east. The Place de r Hotel de Yille Is a fine 
square, having a Jardin Public; with the H6tel 
de Yille, built 1855, In the Renaissance style. 
In Place Louis XYI Is the handsome Theatre, 
near the Bsssin du Commerce, rebuilt since the fire 
of 1845, by Charpentier. Here the Exchange 
Is held. A new Bourse has been built by 
Lemaltre. The Church of Kotre Dame, In Bue de 
Paris, was built in the 16th century, cross-shaped, 
in the Benaissance style; the front was restored, 
1829. 8L Francois' church was erected between 
1558 and 1681. The Custom-house, or Dounne, 
built in 1754, is on Quai Notre Dame. The govern- 
ment tobacco factory and Custom-house Entrep6t, 
are both large buildings. 

At the Cercle de Commerce, or Lloyd's, the mer- 
chants meet. The old pr^toire, or bailliage, In the 
Market Place, Is nowthe Palais de Justice. A public 
Library of 50,000 volumes Is In the new Museum 
(on the site of the ancient HOtel de Yille), with 
David's statues of Saint Pierre and Delavigne in 
I firont, U U open on Sundays, TneadaySi ftPd 



BAND-BOOK TO FBAKCX* 



Houte 9.] 

Thursdays. St. PIdrrd (the author of Paul and 
VirginUO was horn in Rue de la Corderie (No. 47), 
and another house on Qua! Cassiniir Delavigne 
was the birth-place of Delavigne. Mad. de Scuderi 
and Mad. Ancelot were also natives of Havre. 

Three docks on the north, viz., Bassin du Com- 
merce, Yieux Baasin (begun by Colbert in 1660), 
and Bassin de ia Barre, open into the Port Neuf 
(dating from 1843), and into the Avant Port, which 
are just Inside the jetties, and round which the 
ateamers and hotels are found. The Bassin de la 
Barre has a floating dock at one end, with a com- 
munication to Bassin Vauban (opened 1812), near 
the railway station in Cours de la Republique. At 
low water the Avant Port is dry, and its mouth is 
kept clear by sluices from a large reservoir near 
the south Jetty, called Retenue de la Floride, 
which has communication with the large new 
Bassin de TEure, opened 1856, where the American 
steamers lie, and beyond which is the Dock 
Entrepdt. Bassin de la Citadolle, opened 1871. 
>0n the north jetty is a Lighthouse, near the 
Hotel Frascati and the Baths. The tide rises 20 
to 37 feet, so that large ships come in three hours 
before high water. Further improvements are in 
progress. 

The Seine runs with such power past the pier- 
heads of the harbour as to prevent the water 
inside Arom falling sensibly for even three hours 
after high water ; so that 120 sail have been known 
to leave in one tide, with the vrind againat them. 
Both sides of the river above Havre are well 
lighted, to guide small craft past the shifting 
sands. There is good anchorage in the Roads, with 
plenty of water; but the current often sets with 
dangerous swiftness. Alterations are being made 
in the estuary of the Seine. It was off this port 
that Sir Sidney Smith was captured, 1796, and sent 
to the Temple at Paris. 

Ship-building and kindred trades are carried on. 
' Many ships are engaged in the Newfoundland cod, 
the herring, and other fisheries. One of the first 
ships ever built here was the ye/ Frangoise, a 
great vessel of 2,000 tons, in the reign of Francis I. 
Unfortunately, before she got ofiF the stocks, she 
was OTertumed by a tempest of wind, and her 
timbers were used to build hp^s at the Barre, 
^t InfowUie thfr^ iP an old church; a^d the 



S9 



prospects are extremely good, especially from la 
cote, where the villas of the English and Foreign 
merchants are fixed. The low space to the north* 
west is lined with windmills, and leads to Cap4 la 
ffive^ where the chalk clift begin, on which stand 
the two fixed lights, 446 feet above the sea. Ste. 
Adresse (tramway) is a well-wooded spot, with 
a pretty church, cemetery, oyster park, &c., and a 
monument on the heights to Count Deuouottes, 
who was shipwrecked off Ireland in 1834. More 
distant excursions may be made to l^tretat and its 
chalk cliffs, near Cape d'Antifcr; to Honflour and 
Trouville, across the Seine. 

Among the articles manufactured are tobacco, 
soap, pottery, iron, cordage, starch, vitriol, paper, 
beer, refined sugar, and lace. The imports afO 
sugar, coffee, spices, cotton, Ac, to the value of 
£10,000,000, of which cotton is one-fourtti. 

The canal from Havre to TancarviUe, avoiding 
the worst part of the Seine navigation, is now 
much used, the tonnage passing averaging ovef 
400,000 tons. 

ConveKances.—Bj rail or steam to Honfleur and 
Rouen, daily; Caen, daily, 4 hours; Trouville, dnily^ 
2 hours; Pont Audemcr, daily; Southampton, 13 
hours ; London, 20 hours ; San Sebastian, Corunnn, 
Cadiz, Gibraltar, and Malaga, in 8 days ; New York, 
15 days. There are also lines to South America, 
Ac. (See Bradsfiaw's Continental Ouide.) 

The first station from Havre (leaving Gravills 
and its old abbey church to the north) is 

Harfleur (4| miles), a decayed village oh thd 
Lezarde, now 2 miles ftom the Seine's mouth (hero 
seen to advantage), but once the chief port of 
Normandy. Henry V. took It after seven weeks* 
siege, 1415, and sent the population (8,000) to 
Calais and elsewhere— which was tlie ruin of It. 
The population in 1891 was 2,307. 

The Church has a slender tower, and good portal, 
with a beautiful spire, 255 feet high. On a certain 
day in each year the bell strikes 104 tin cs, to 
commemorate the escape of as many of the towns- 
people, after the siege above mentioned. Rail to 
Montvilliers (3 miles north), up the river. 

A little east is Orcher Chdttau^ seat of liiadame 
Mortemarte, once belonging to Law, the financier. 

The \ln^ wipds round tl)e ^Ul ^% (l^e l>§ck of 
Harftcuri njjd pomes (0 



r 



40 



BBAD8HAW*S ILLUflTKATBD 



[S«e.9U 



9t 9mftXn-d«*Oolb<U|0 (7 miles), a itiition 

% kti; fh>m the village, which stands ih a pleasant 

baaiitry, and has 1,700 popnlation, with manufac- 

tJoirsB of stockings and prints. JTof^ei;— PIdolin. 

p^t 5 miles east-south-east, on the high cliCTs of 

the S^fod, opposite (^nilliaboBuf; are the fine 

remains of Tancarvilli Ciutlt, including the 

gate and its massy round towers, chspel, Ac. 

If belonged to the Conq;iieror's chamberlain 

(anceslpr of the English Tankervilles); the 

Harcourtfi; Dunols, the soldier; Law, the 

financier ; and U* nqw held by the fiTontmo- 

rencies, but is not inhabited.] 

BetuteTille-Br^aattS (5 miles), or Bei:^e- 

Viitd IjB Qrenldr, whence there are branch rails 
connecting with BOlbQC and LiUebQllIie (below) 
and with Fdcamp, across the Pays de Gaux. 
Beuzovilio fs Z9!^ mUfia from 9o^en, and io| from 
Havre. 

[CfrailtTtlle^ODdervtlle (4 miles), fhe station 
is 2 miles ftom Goderville. 

ttBB IfiB-Btretat, near Tourville; and 8^ mfiiea 
further is 

F^SXDPt <^ considerable and trnprovtng bath- 
ing-place and fishing port, in a gap of the 
' cliffs, having the fine Church of the abbey of 
Notre Danxe, built between the Ilth and 1^^ 
centuries, partly Hfornian, but mostly early 
Gothic in style ; with some good carving, 
eflSgies of abbots, and a tower, 231 feet high. 
The Lighthouse^ on Montagne-de-la-Tlcrge cliff 
(near a chapel), Is 427 feet high, and can be 
seen 21 miles. 

It has a bathing establishment and Mbrary, 

' with town and' Benedictine museums. The 
Liqueur B€n4dictine, formerly- mad«> at the 
Abbaye, is stfil distilled. Population, 13,577. 
Omnibttsto Tport, S-mOes. 

J7of«{<.— Grand Hotel du Chariot d'orj des 
Bains; de la Gare^ du Commerce. 

BnglUh tic€ Consul. 

£ngnsh Chorob Service oocasionally. 

Ilxcursions to Yallde de (}ranzeville and T&U^e 
de Valmont, 

About' 9 miles south- west is Cape de Caux^ or 

'' dope ^4n$^^, past fine chalk cl%ffi ali the 
▼ary, from 150to 700feet higb. ^liey rival those 
of tWIsip QHf tffbt for }i]0\lUsDsj aa&a yarletjr ojf! 



shape. The^ picijiresqne. olUfi and ^rjed^ 
e:]|teud to ^tbetaj, a fkyourit&bathingrpUco, 
10 miles from Les Ifs (above),; first brpngl^. 
into fashion by Alphonse Karc Her^ is good 
bathing, with a Church, a Ca^ino,^and Lodgin^^ 
houses. Population, 2,015. ffoteU.—U&uviXLe ; 
Blanqnet. About 26 miles ftarther is Kavjzx.] 
Purtheron you come to MirvIUe aqueduct, i,6«6 
feet long, on forty-eight arches, some 115 feet hUgpu 

[Oracbel-le-Valas8i» ; min& of aa abbey. 

l A U l rtW BBit (5 miles sonlibX in a hotllomi, «» tlw 

Bolbec, once t^ Bomaa JuMa ^luy^. sQ>oaUied 

a/lter CsBtsar's daogiitor. It remainod ft plMe 

of some note oodAr the SToEiaatt dukB«,. m$^ 

has been lavlvod by. the^ ooUon mwwfaetwf. 

Population^ 6,500. An i^iolent sotmioireuter 

Boman Tbaatre, aboi|t 2iM) feet ncriwh. c«t ««t 

o( the hillside,, y^w tpac«d ISSbS; aodbiHiis^ 

coins, puMs Ql stiitnw]^, 4c., lM»re Itosea. disr 

coi^eved. Th^ie Ut> » good. spDre GfanRh. 

Afootve it are tioo tower, and mined wail» of 

the Hai«coQi<ts* old Castle^ e^oa beionglng^ to 

'VJITilliaa^ thQ Conqoeioc.] 

KollKtal (31 miles) stiUiouvio tito sooth-aficltioh 

^ uiUMOt i» BoUMe (EMched bj taH, n» ab9¥sOl». ft 

manufacturing town of 12,028 souls, wbeiW( Um^ 

-mUkya 9i4«t» on % stream wltiiilv ma& c^Awn. Uf, the 

Saia^ Hera, was bon^ G«QAral Bn^Sui. ifdiom 

ICarahal Lftsnae presemt^ te. JS^jfoimik,. «ft«B tbe 

Battila ef Fuedlfuid. as Uus; ^*mflBfe. TaUaiit" of 

hia ei3niBiraJis» CotloiL 4n4 llneo. gpad» aad IttitiMr 

are, made., Bo*eU. — ^D« BiO^n;, de IfEiurope. 

VWIMirl-AlflnUM^ At 91«»)jaes» ne.«p hftx^ 
la a»cba(tel oi the 16th centqjr^. 

VlMtol i% mites), ti»tk«i lafi^ in a AnrfUe spol, a 
mnarpir^fiftetiiae of 7,617 aauls, with » kriek ehorGli, 
oUiiW!d90daii honaes, and maaiiisctvreip of cotton, Ac. 
It ia calalnatfid for Ha Roi tSJ^etotf a bvlssque 
title, first conferred in aA edlot of 1893, oa its 
SQigixeivr (likft tbA King of EUppftn, in PcuFthsMre), 
ftAd tftkAa uj^ la B/^cang^'s 309g,.wiritjLQA i^lj^U :«■ 

*' U luisait sea qnatre r^ac^ 

Dans ^n palais de ch^uiQei 
£t snr un fine, pas a pas, 

Pareoorait son royaume/' 

At AUotnme (8| miloa sontl^west) ia a tomoas 
Ool, 48 feet roiind, and eight eeqtitrle^ olii^ |t ts 
fitted up as A ^i|P«ll, 



Bottte 10a.] 



HAXD-BOQK XQ V^JiVCM^ 



U 



MottevUle (H miles), In the wide and fe^le 
^lainof the PkysdeCanx, or l^xhi Normand, as 
itwaftoftlled, was the seat of Madiame de Mottevllle, 
who wTOtfr ttie Mtmoin of Anne of Austria. 
H«re the lllte to Cl%res (pa^ 28), on the Dieppe 

line, goes off vtf^sirasay^Tenrilleand St. Onett- 
dOrSlrewliL Branoh of 20 miles, to 0r6jllQll- 
Ville, Doud^YiUe (with a good old church), 

9fe. 'Vaast-Bofviae (for Cany), TSMstd, and 

St. lUdry-en-CaiUC, a bathlng-placeand Ashing 
port,.in a pretty spot. Population, 4,014. Church 
of 16d) century, baths, and oyster park. Excur- 
sions to Yenles and Tenlettes. From Cany 
8f miles by rail to the bathing-place of Les 
7«ttte8 DaUw. 

From St. Yal^ry to FlanianviUe tnnnel. Thei:^ 

PAYlUy (7 iQlles)^ up the Aoatcebfiotbe, hi a 
pretty spot; bfts an old ch&UaUt Esneval^ <4 the 
15tb century (now a ootton factory), and ihe ohnrch 
of Bt. Ausi^reberthfi* of the. 12th century, ^(^ula- 
tion 2,957. 

[At 9^ miles, soqth-floi|th<«il8t am thd: fine 
Koxman ruj^ of tb« alibeQr GJ^ureh of 

JAimikgei^ founded Gfilf by 9t. PhiUbert,. and 
rebaiU in. the Uth centmy. It has two ooi^ 
spieuons towera oyer the w«st ficont, na4 pa^ 
of the central towers, ^p. To this abbey tfa^ 
Qonfessor sent Harold to ceqew his promise of 
the kingdom to WilliAm. Charl^ VXI. was 
here when Vis mistress, Agnes. Sosel, died at 
Mesnil Chdteau (3 miles south-east) , now a f arm- 
house^ neai* theriye;c> opposite Manny forest.] 

Barentill(li mlto)lawerdown the Anstreberthe 
iwhkh falls into the Seise at Dnclair cliffs, 7 nriles 
tooih-^onith-west, i-n the forest of le Trait — ^to 
which a coach rvms) haS'Some cotton works, an old 
Choroh, and a p<^lation of 4,41$. Here is a 
branch, line, 18 mites long, through TalnvUle- 

JonUtees aqd St WaadrUlQi to Qajidebec, a 

pretty Tillage of 2,83B souls, in a gap of the cliffs, 
the opening of a pretty valley. It belonged to 
St. Wandrilie's abbey. Henry V., of England, 
Charley YU., and Henry lY., at varioii/i. tlmeii took 
possession of it,— the last, in 1599. The. old walls 
are gone; but It retains many curious wooden 
hojasei), a^da beautiful Gothifi Churchy bt^ilt 1416-48,, 
ijaTljJff • richly-carved triple portal (tfeft W aJCWv 



" three pearls, on a blnfi. 4«ld,** ^e seen) ; a^ si^o 
tower, with a tiara-shaped spliiQ;; an4 a Yl^i|i 
chapel, with its great pendant, hi^nging O'om the 
roof. Biscuits, beer, &c., are made ; at one time 
it was noted for gloves, and for bats ci^led 
"Caqdebecs." The ruined chunihes of Si. Ger- 
trude and Notre Dame-^i&iSarre-y-Vat are near-^ 
the latter being of the 13th century, and. a TOtlre 
chapel for the bargemen. Opposite it was ^n 
island, which sunk in 1641, with a monastery upon 
it. AJt the equinox, people come here to see the 
barre or bor^ when the tides rush up 8 to 10 f^Qt 
high, jab/c?,— De I'Aigle d'Or. 

At 4 mUes, eaj^t are the Gothic remains of a 
Chttreb^ojk the> sUe, ctf the Alfbey, founded 634^ l^y 
8t. WandriUe^ kinsm^ of Clevis, and ci^Ued 
FontandUy but burnt in 1230. Theodoric, son of 
the last Merovingian king, died here. St. Saturnin^s 
little Norman chapel is near ; and there was another 
at CaUlouville, full of statues. Across the river 
(2^ miles south), in Brotonne forest, was the old 
ch&te.au of Meilleraye^ or Meslerde, seat of Madame 
de Mortemarte, now a ship yard. At 2| miles 
south-west of Caudebec is the pretty villa^^e of 
Vilte^ier, and its spire Churchy in a gap of the 
river. 

Beyond this is a great vta(fKc/, on twenty-seven 
arches, 108 feet high, 1,640 feet long. To this 
succeeds the tunnel ot Notre Dame des Champs, 
7,218 fbet long (under Poville hiU); then a cutting 
106 feet deep in some parts ; and at length, 

UalaiUlfty (ff mUes) and its viaduct, at the 
]\inction with the Dieppe line (see Route 8), which 
comes down the valley of the Cailly. 

Farts to St* cioad» St Qmem»Xa, «94 
Ve^aUias. 

This is one of the three or four Lign€9 de BanUeuet 
or short lines, in the environs of Paris, which braneh 
oat of the Chemtn de fer de FOuett. For the short 
line to Sceaux, see Route 84. For the Rive €fatiehe 
line. Route 15. See also Bradafum's Ouide to Paris. 

By rail to Yeysa^lles (iJt«^ Droitfi, t.«., right or 
north bank of the Seine, oj)enQd 1839)^ and St. 
Germain (opened 18.39), ^.Y^ce an hoiv:, fro;ni the 
terminus, Rue St, l«aj6ai;t, QgiftlhW»§P W^^tP' 



r 



4a 



Irftlm. Distance to VersaUIes, H miles; 

Germain, 11 miles. 

The stations to Versailles are :— 

Asni^res, Swesnes, Chaville, 

Conrbevole, St. Cloud, Viroflay, 

Puteanx, Sfevrcs-Ville d'Avray, YersalUes. 

ABIli^reS, as in Route 8. 



6BADSHAW*d XLLUSTBATBD 

to St. I 



[Sec. 2. 

The private grounds and Grand Park wer« laid 
out by Lo N6tre, and are open to the public. la 
the latter are the water- works and cascades, with 
a jet d'eau, rising 140 feet; and Napoleon's Lanie^^ 
of Diogenes, a copy of that at Athens, whaice 
there is a fine prospect A three weeks' ffite is 

. held in September. The unfinished church has 

ConrheTOie (at the bridge to Villiers) has a two paintings. A fourteen-ai'ch bridge leads over 
rge barrack and a church, rebuilt 1789. Popu- to Boulogne. At the end of the lower park of 

__ . .• »« . ._ _._A fa. _ _ _• - _ _ 



large 

lation, 17,597. The Marquis de Fontane's seat is 
one of the best about here. Here Francis II. and 
Marie Stuart parted. A little further on, orer the 
river (here crossed by Peronnet's beautiful stone 
bridge, built 1772, 750 feet long, of five arches, 
each 120 feet span), is Neullly (see Route 10-C.) 

Futeaux, on the bank of the Seine, has a 
large artisan population. 

Suresnefl, in a pretty spot. Population, 8,404. 
Its vines and roses were at one time equaUy 
celebrated. In front is Mont Calvaire, or Valirien, 
590 feet above sea level. A suspension bridge 
crosses the Seine to the Longchamps walk in the 
Bois de Boulogne. Steam to Paris. 

St. Cloud, on a wooded hill, close to the Seine (by 
which steamers come up); so called after Clovis's 
grandson, St. Clodoald, who was murdered here. 
Several Ca/ec. Population, 6,660. It was burnt by 
the English, 1358; here Henry III. was assassi- 
nated, 1389 ; and Hcnrietto Maria of Orleans, wife 
of Charles I., died here, 1670. 

The Palace, built 1572, by Gondy, a banker, 
having been bpught by Louis XIV., was given to 
his brother, the Duke of Orleans, and rebuilt 
by Mansard. It formed three sides of a square, 
with a principal firont of 170 feet long, and had 
many painted and gilt saloons full of pictures, 
statuary, Sevres china, and tapestry; and was 
ruined, 1870, being set on fire by the French 
batteries to prevent Its occupation by the Gernmns. 
The ruins were cleared away In 1892. Louis 
XV I. gave It to his queen ; Bonaparte, when consul, 
carried out the revolution of 18 Brumalre (10th No- 
vember, 1799) here ; the capitulation of Paris was 
here signed, 1815, when it was occupied by BlUcher ; 
and hence Charles X. Issued the famous ordon- 
nanccs against the press, 1830, which ended In 
j^nother revolution. It was one of t|ie principal 
residences of Napoleon III, 



park 
St Cloud Is Sevres. It was founded 560, and 
has a population of 6,902, with a church full 
of new stained windows, and the government 
factory of Porcelain, or Skvrea china, established 
1755. The show rooms are open dally; there 
Is also a fine mtueum of china and pottery, of all 
ages and countries, to be seen, by order. 

[From St. Cloud there Is a line to St. Germain, 
past Garches, Vaucresson, Bouglval-la-Cellc- 
St.Cloud, and Marly-le-Rol. At Bougival, on 
the Seine, a rendezvous for rowing parties, is a 
13th century church. XtMarly~le-Roi are some 
remains of the chfttean of Louis XIV., and the 
park, also an Aqueduct (see next page).] 

The line now runs close to the rive gauche, or 
south-bank line, past Ville S^vres-d'Avray 

(where Gambetta lived), Chaville, Grand Montreull 
(where Gen. Hoche was bom), to the main line of 
the Chemin de rOnest at Vtroflay, leaving the old 
line to go on to the terminus in R)^e Duplossls, at 
VerBaUles (see Route 15). 



PariB to St. Oennain. 

By Llgnes de Banlleae rail; trains, twice an 
hour. To Argenteuil, 5 minutes past every hour. 
The stations to St. Germain are— 

Asnl^res, Nanterre, I^ V^slnet, 

La Garenne- Rueil, Le Pecq, 

Bezons, Chatou, St. Germain. 

Asml^res, as in Route 8. Population, 19,575. 

La GarexUXO-Bezons. Correspondance to Be- 
zona, a small place with 2,406 Inhabitants, see 
page 37. 

Nanterre was the Wrth-place of St. Genevieve, 

the patron saint of Paris, and Is noted for its ssfi- 

sages and cakes. Well and grotto of the Saint. 

A Boslbre f@te Is hold here on Wblt-Sanda^, 

I Steam tpamway f J>om Paris, 



'BOUte lOO.] HAND-BOOK 

KvaSI (department Selne-et-Oiae), to the left,. 
liM ft lar^ barrack, and a chnrch, partly as old as 
the ISth centnry, in which are monaments of 
Josephine and her daughter, Hortetue; the latter 
•placed here by her son, Napolten III. Population, 
9,987. 

Tramways to Marly (5f miles) ; to Malmaison 
Oi mile), see below; to fiougival (2| miles); to 
Marly-la-Machine (8 miles). 

Malmaisan, the fkvoarite seat of Napoleon and 
Josephine (who died in it, 1814), which for a 
time belonged to Qaeen Christina, was bought 
by the late Emperor, and is now private property. 
It Is a plain building, and inolndcs Napoleon's 
library and cabinet, in which he was nearly cap- 
tured, 1815, by BlUcher's cavalry; but his guards 
having time to break down the wooden bridge of 
Chatou, he escaped to Rochefort. At La Celle St.- 
Clottd is the Cbfttean, given by Louis XV. to 
Madame de Pompadour, with that of Beauregard, 
• in a fine spot, on a hill. 

Cliatoa, In Vesinct wood, where the railway 
crosses the Seine, resting on He Chiard, is to the 
right. To the left are Croissy and Les Gabilions. 

[Beyond (across the river) are seen the Port 
Marly waterworks, and Aqueduet^ on 86 arches, 
2,165 feet long, 70 feet high, erected at great 
cost, for supplying Versailles. The viaduct 
strikes towards liouveciennes on the hill side, 
and Maisons pavilion, which belonged to 
Madame dn Barri. Louis XIV.'s seat at 
Marly was pulled down at the Revolution.] 

YOfllnet. Here a short biunch turns off to Le 
Pecq bridge, opposite St Germain, but the main 
line goes round by another bridge to the old palace. 

8T. OEBMAIM-BN-LATE, or ST. OBRMAINS. 

18 miles west of Paris, in a healthy spot on the 
slope of a hill, is celebrated for its royal Chateau^ 
begun by Louis-le-Jeune, 1148, but rebuilt and 
enlarged by Francis I. and Louis XIV., who was 
born here ; as wcte Henry II. and Charles IX. It 
was the residence of Mary Stuart (in her youth) ; 
of Henry IV.; and of James II. of England, 
who died here, 1701, and was buried in the 
Itollan Chore))* "nhW^ poRtaUip a moqi^Q^nt to him 



^ 



TO FBAKCS. 



4S 



by George IV., since restored by Qaeen Victoria. 
3!^ Pdlaee Is a large heavy pile; and after being 
used as a barrack, military school, and military 
penitentiary, is now turned into a Gallo-Roman 
mnseum. James's body having been embalmed 
had been removed to the convent of English 
Bemardines at Paris for interment in England, 
when the ians culottes, at the Revolution, broke 
open the coffin; but it was at length safely 
restored to St Germains, where it now lies. A 
noble shaded Temue, constructed by Le N6tre, is 
100 feet broad, and 7,870 feet long, and commands 
a fine prospect. The Forest to the north was called 
Lata when the monastery of St Germain was 
founded in the 11th century. It eovers 9,000 acres, 
and two fairs are held in it— one near the Chftteau 
desLoge8,f or three days in September— when people 
picnic under the trees, ending ^vith a dance. La 
Muette pavilion is used for a racing stud, under the 
management of a Newmarket jockey. Statue of 
Thiers, and of Vercingetorix. 

Population, 14,262. Many English live here. 
English Church Service on Sunday. 

Good hotels, but all dear. Cqfe du Pavilion 
d'Henri IV. 

Conveyances to Marly, Maule, Meulan, Poissy. 
At Cambourcy (I mile), near Marly forest, are some 
fine chestnuts, and the domain of Kets, oatled the 
Desert. 

DROXJTB lOO. 
Paris to Attteuil. 

A Ligne de Banlieue line about 3 miles long, out 
of the Rouen line, skirting the inner side of the 
fortifications. Embarcad^re In Rue St. Laaare; 
trains every half-hour. 

The stations are— 

Les Batlgnollos, Courcelles, Nenilly (Porte 
Maillot), Bois de Boulogne, Passy, Antenil. 

At Auteuil it connects with the Chemin de Cein- 
tttrct or circular line of Paris, which unites all the 
stations, and passes flrom Auteuil to Pont du Jour, 
Montrouge, Bel Air, M($niImontant, Avenue de 
Clichy, ^c, round to Batignolles, a circuit of more 
than 24 miles, wlthlp the fortifications. It le'"— 
tliQ mf^ lii)e closp to the Bptrepdt. 



BBAPftgAVd ILLU4XBAXSD 



[SfiQ*^ 



aoKl P«rc dw Monnaaia, a lUi vfoii wm, slmost 
e<a99lotel; bi|Uft <h|| wUh a popnMafcloQ; of sprly 

^OtlKHn OnmU^iMOfl, oaUed '* BatlgnQUem" nm^ 
th9 9oiil«TacdS. Mavoel-aiiditlyo Qd^n. 

C(|iiro«]lefl» a sabmrbtan Tillage. 

MiMdlly, or Mrta XftUloA. npaethe At)^»u« de 
NeoUly, outsUie tiio Triumphal Airoh and the ChamBs 
Ji^lys^eSk The Avenue leada outBide the ifalLi to 
CAdA;)9iy d^ Nmiifly^ the favourite «eat o£ Xkhi^ 
?hUippe, injved in ld48. It was huUt 1766, hy 
CQmte d*Argengon, in the Italian style; aod, at 
variooa times, was inhabited by Talleyrand, Friii- 
oess Borgheiv, and Prince Marat. The house and 
gMHin^, were beautifully laid oa^ by the king, whp 
was ofliered the crown here, 1880. A pilUu? iparks 
where he was shot at just before that event. A 
bridge crosses the Seine. liTearer ?aris, oi^side 
^he triiwphal arch, ia a ChapO, on the spot where 
bis son, the Duke of Orli^aoi, was l^ed, when 
driving to the Ghl^teau, 1843. It contains two 
statues by his sister, Marie of Wilrtembeilg. The 
^014 de Boulogne lies beyond the fortifications, and 
is a pleasant spot, ornamented with trees, several 
pieces of water, with a waterfall, Ac. It suffered 
in the siege of 1870-1, but has been restored. 
Thexe was once a cell here to Notre Dame, of 
Boqlogne-sur-Mer, from which the name is derived. 
It contains the AlUt cU Longehamp, which is the 
great promenade of the higher classes, analogous 
in this respect to our Rotten Row. Before the 
Revolution there was an abbey close to Sures- 
nes, founded by St. Louis's sister, Isabelle, which 
the ladies of Louis XIV.'s court used to attend in 
Passion Week; and hence arose the custom of 
appearing here in gay equipages at that time of 
the year, when the spring fashions appear. 

Ayenue da Bols de Boulogne Station, near 

the Porte Dauphine. 

PltfUlY, on the slope of a hill by the Seine, is. 
celebrated for its residents. Franklin lived he^e, 
1788, and gives name to a street; also Abb^ Raynal 
who died here, 1796; the Comte d'Estaing, who 
f Ql^t wiAh Rodney ; and Piccini and BeUini, tthe^ 
composers. Victor Hugo died here (1885) at a 
bonse in the avenue which bears his name. Janin, 
the critic, who translated Clarissa Harlo^e,^ &c., 
died at his vUla, 187i. It kM a fi[q94 Iron S^, 



whichc Is iisctfol In Uidigostk>n« Ac, A^ omnlbiu 
p«8 t^ th|Q M#kd(4#Ka. Traniwa^ 8 lineg, f ^qi 
the louvre. 

AittenU^ aaar Bote do Bonlognei Ac», wb* i^ 
fluvomite residence- of Boileau, MoUhre, Baciiie, 
Lafontaine, Condorcet, HelveUus, Count Romford, 
and othefs. JBoifeau's ^ohh ia sUU shown, ii^ the 
sixth street, to ^e left fi:om the church, on thjd 
St. Cloud road. A chftteau occupies the site ^f 
JIfoliire's house. The spire Church of the 12th cen- 
tury has the tomb of Nioolai ; and there is a pillar to 
ChAneettor dAgueueam in the Place. CockeFeU, 
the architect, is buried hereu Omnibuses nu to 
the Madeleine. 

St. Cloud lies across ilie Bois de Boulogne. 
Sbvres is also near at hand. A steamer &om Pont 
Royal touches here. 

DROU'X'-U 11- 
Parts ta Kantee, Bviwue, Omu^ and 

By raff, opened throughout tn ISSS; SaO* mflep. 
Four trains daily, 8| hours to 14| hours. To 

KantOS, as in Route 8, descending tiie Seine, 
Z6\ miles (see page 88). 

Leaving the main line, with the Forest and 
Chftteau de Bosny (<»ce Snlly^s seat) to the ^ust, 
our line passes through Boissy'-Manvoisin Tunnd^ 
S,282 feet long, to 

Br^yal (8f miles), near the wood of thai name, 
and the river Randon, which it crossea several 
times, and then reaches 

Bueil (8i miles), on the Enre, which gives 
naine to the department we here enter, a part of 
Normandy. Rail to Dreux (page 67). and. F^cy- 
9ur-£ure (as below). 

Boisaet-Pacy <6} miles), station is proper^ 
Boisset-les-Pr^vanges. Coach to Pacy. 
[PACy-anr-Buze (imlles), adecayedtowaouthe 
Euro, ouce fortified, and given up by Richard I., 
with other places, as a rans<»n, to Philippe 
Augoste, 1198. Its Churchill ancient. About 
12^ miles south, higher U|>tbLe river, is tJie battle 
field of /vry (see Route 8). A brsjuch of the 
Eure line is open from ^his to Ver^jLOn and 

aiaora (see p. 85>] 

A tunnel, of 978 feet, opens on a fine panorama, 
In. th« ce;itf9. of wWcfe, ig nOlj^ ftirVkw, %^^ 



67 niileB from PgtUi. 

!&b'fiBts.— bu dFirand Cerf ; de Parts. 

I@^ Objects oj 'lJoTicE.-^CatliedraI-^». ^au- 
rin*8 Glmiclir-Belfiy Toiver-^Bitihop^s Palaoe. 

*!PopWfttion, ^6,992. Oflpttti of department Ear©, 
^Hb^ of k dio<3Me, Am)., 41id on«e the head of a ootmt^, 
^bldh in 'Novman times gaVenamie to the D'Evyeox, 
cft T>&¥&t^tac AtaOy (now represented by Lord 
Herefora) in -^grland. It Stands in a hollow, 
ilmbtif^ordhcft'ds aiid gaMens, dn anMand mtuSeby 
fhe Itbn. The old Bomlin towh of Atiiefti Ebw4>- 
viees Cof w-hfch ustae the t)i«isent Is a eotruption) 
was at Vieil JSVteui;'^^ miles oflE), where portions of 
«n luineanet, batitt, Ao., have been foimd. The 
present town Was'btimt'orplbbdered many timet 
betweeti 1119 and 1441, when it was finally taken 
ftott the English by the French. It has good walks, 
hbe^dvtiieetSt'and several (dd-fiishioned houses of 
wt)tod und plaster. 

The Cathedral is cross-shaped, and in various 
styles, from Norman downward, -to the I6th cen- 
tmy, the oldest part being that built by Henry I., oif 
England. It has a tower of aboat 260 feet, a good 
north portal, and Lady chapel, with the rose and 
other windows beantifuUy stained, besides some 
good carving in the choir. 

St. Tawrin'i Church (which was part df ah abbey 
f oonded in the 7th century) is of the 11th, 18th, 
and 15th centuries, has a very Ancient t([l6cinien of 
the Byzantine style Oi^c the Norman) tfi'tbesdifth 
transept, and the saint's curious Ch^sse, or (Arna:- 
mented ahriue, as old as the 1 3th centuty. St. I 
'Gille's old church is now used as a Istable. Th« > 
Tour de VHerloge^ or beliry, built 1472-^7, by Pierre 
Hotdau, is 144 feet liigh, to the fop of the spire, 
Vtad lias 1)een partly restored. ^Wo ini^criptlonB 
In 'Gothtc tetter are traced on it; Oih«r bulld- 
'Ings are the Prefecture (over the hospital); th^ 
Blshop^B/>a2are6 o'ffhe 10th century; the new hospi- 
tal ; the college or high school ; titid. llbyary df 
'10,Qi(N> volumes, "^Itha museum of antiquities, geo- 
logy, AC. There is also a good botanic gai^en, notfr 
the station. 

Manufactures of coarse coitdUs (coutil or tlckteg^ 
Mockings, linen, leaih<$t, Shd paper. 

Branch line (A) titles) to ifittlM^MMM 
(pAge ifi)t vift 



to WtAltcA. 

te iretltoOTUrg'(poptftatlon,9,4tf7)» A pretty iff(>i-- 
man town, with * gi^At hall, and other parts 
of a CSw/te, where Henry of England, «oii of 
"Hehry ll., mairried Louis VII.'s daughter. 
l)upont de l*Edre, a celebrated member of the 
'Chamber of Deputies, was born here, and 
there Is'a statae^o him. 

feiil to Louviers (wJS Ac^uiny, page 167), Drcux, 
Elboeuf, Rouen, to Birou, and to Pont I'EvSqtic. 

Prom ;6vreux you pass to 

La Bonneville m miles), on the Iton. It has 
an old church with good stained windows. CfUtolfkty 
near this, is the seat of the Due de Clermorft-TOn- 
nerre. Through a pretty valley and a tUMtt^l *d^ 
1,6^0 feet, to 

ConclieB (H tofl^s). Besides WfrfalJis t* to 
abbey ahd castle (11th centuryX It has & gbod 
Church (l«h century), with 23 Stained windows, 
the subject being the life of St. Foi. Iron'fotltid- 
ries. By rail («»3Xe Fidclaire, Lyre, and Rugfes) 
toLaigle, Verheiiil, &c., towcbrds Dfenk. 

[Rngles (population, 1,736), on theltllU, ha& 
manufactures of nails, pins, needles. 

Lalgle (15 miles from Conches) has a pop. of 
«,037, whomake pins, needles, braids, and* boot 
and stay-laces. It contains two churches, 
one r;S». Bcmih^Um^ as old as 1115, and chiefly 
Kojrnnan; and a brick Chateau. It also deserves 
notice on accountof a remarkable fall of about 
8,600 aerolites, which occuiTed in 1795i The 
cause of itwasinvestigatedby the astronomers 
H<rtel.~^e l-Aigle d'Or. RaU to Mortiigne. 

VezneuH (U miles from Laigle), in the fertUe 
part of the Avre, was fortified by Henry I., of 
England, and repeatedly taken and retfken, 
till given up to the Freneb, 1449. The Duke 
-of Bedfoifd defeated Charles VII. here, 1424. 
Cathedral Church <l2t)i to 16ih centuri^es) and 
Its spire (seen ten miles off), with quaintcarv< 
ittgs on It; the beautiful Touw of the Madeleine 
Chureh (11th to 17th centuries); the Donlon or 
ibttr QHae^ on the ^d walls, about 66 feet 
diameter; and taiany Gothic houses of timber 
or brick. Population, 4,270.. HoUl.i—'Dvi 
Saamon. ^Short tlife, IT^ mUes, 'epened 1886, 
totettlvUlet !i^!«ac»th«ni-is4t V0rfr0q99ii^nco 
'wlthBvfeuz, 




46 



fittAfiSHAW'g IIittfiTBATRD 



[Sec. a« 



Bomilly m mUes), on the AnUoUe, which drives 
a foundry for zinc and copper. 

Boanmont-le-Roger i6| miles) belonged to 
Roger-Ma-Barbe, one of the Conqneror's great vas- 
sals. Population, 1,886. St. Nicholas's Church s 
worth notice. There are also remains of the castle ; 
of an old priory (now a factory) ; and the tower of 
Beaumontel Church. In the neighbouring forest 
is a curiosity, called Fontaine-Boger, with the fine 
cliftteau of BeaumunU and remains of Grosley and 
Thevray Castles. Much stone is quarried here. 

Seravlgny (3f miles), at the junction of the 
BUle and Charentonne, is said to have talcen its 
name from Serqvinius^ a Roman. A camp is trace- 
able. Cotton factories here. Thechurch is ancient, 
dating from the 12th century; Romanesque portal, 
I3tti century. Here a line turns off, vid Brioxme 
(6 miles) and 0108-Moxitfort (2 miles), with 
braochea tawaida fUbosuf (Route 8), passing over 
the Seine to the Bouen line. That to Pont Aude- 
mer, 38 milea loafe tnma ttom Glos-Hontfort, 
past Uontfort St. PliUilMrtk AppeTille, Ac. 
[Brionne is a pretty spot on the Rille, with good 
fishing. A council was held here, 1050. A 
little below it is 
Bee Abbey, with the church tower (150 feet high), 
arches, and other remains of a famous religious 
house, founded 1034, by Hellouin (or Harlowyn), 
and used by the Benedictines of St. Maur, be- 
fore the Revolution. An inscription records 
that it was partially restored in 1864, by the 
Society of Antiquaries of Normandy. It 
produced Archbishops Lanfranc, Anselm, 
Theobald, and Hubert, besides many bishops 
who were successively transferred to England 
by its Norman kings. 
Pont Audemer, a sons-prtffecture of 6,084 souls, 
in the fertile valley of the Rille, called after 
one Odomar, who founded it in the 6th cen- 
tury. It soflTered in the English and civil wars. 
It has three or four churches. Trade in 
leather (for which it is noted), com, cider, wool. 
JSTofcb.— Potd*£tain; duIdond'Or. Coach to 
La Roqne sur Rille. Bail to Elbcsuf and 
Honfleur. 
At 7| miles north-east is Quxubbbut, with a 
•team ferry, Ac, on the Seine, which the Nor- 
man dukes gaye to Jomi^^i AMt^j^ m4 \h% 



walls of which were reduced by Louis XIY. 
Population, 1,400. The Seine, was formerly 
full of shifting sands here, and the tide 
frequently rushed in with a bore six feet high.} 

Bernay (H miles) has a huffeti and is a sous* 
prefecture in department Eore, in a hollow on the 
Charentonne, with 8,016 population, who manufac- 
ture linens, flannels, and cotton. Besides some old 
houses (in Rue aux F%vres), and two churches of 
the 16th century, it has at the com hall, part of a 
Benedictine Abbey, founded 1018, in the Norman 
style. Here was bom, in 1160, Alexandre de 
Beraay, from whom. It is said, the heroic measure 
of twelve syllables is called AUMUtdrinte, A cattle 
fair in March is attended by great numbers. 
HoteU.-^Du Cheval Blanc ; da Lion d*Or. 

Hero a line turns off towards Alen9on, 
via Broglie (seat of Prince de Broglie), 

Hontrenil-Ctinil, La Fert^ Frasn^ 
Echauffoiir, and ste. aaulmxge (page 69). 

St. HardS-Orbec (8| miles), a vlUage of 1,200 
population, is 10^ miles from Obbkc (page 47). 
Here we leave department Euro, and enter that of 
Calvadoi, so called after a ship of the Armada, 
which was lost on the Calvados reefh along ita 
rocky coast. 

Udenx (9 miles), a aoos-prdfecture in depart- 
ment Calvados, on the Touqnes, where the Orbec 
joins it, in a rich ralley. It was the RomanZedPovd; 
whence this part is still called Pays de LieavalH. 
Henry II. of England married Eleanor here, 1152; 
and here his rebellious subject, Becket, came when 
exiled, 1169. Becket*s vestments are still kept In 
the ch^>el of the Hospice. 

The streets are narrow and winding, with many 
carious timbered houses, which are disappearing 
before modem improvements. There are eight 
Places, four halls, eleven fountains, three churches, 
an old bishop's Palace (with good gardens^, public 
library and museum, Ac. $ and it has manufacturea 
of coarse woollens, flannels, cotton, and other gooda. 
St. Peter's cathedral Church is mostly Early Gothic 
(with some Norman portions as old as 1022), and has 
a good west front with two towers; besides a Lady 
chapel, built in the 16th centur^r, by Bishop 
Canohon, to atone for the share he took in qoq« 
demning Joiw of 4rc. population, ^6^960, 



fipaUll.j 



HANtoi'BObk TO t^JtAl^eJ^r 



47 



^ 



Hotels.— De France; d^Espag^ne. 

A branch rail to l*oiit I'Evfequc, Trouville, and 
Honflenr tarns oflT here (see Route 13) . Several old 
Ch&Uaux may be examined round Lisienx, as 
Fumichon, d'Hermllial, Ouilly-la-Ribaude, Beuvil- 
liers, Mesnil-Guillattme, and Maiiloc, whose last 
marquis died an exile in En^^land, in 1802. An 
old half-feudal structure, called the Pavements^ li 
mile on the road to Orbec, should not be omitted. 
When the Bishop of Lisieux lived in this neighbour- 
hood, he used always to date from the '* Chambre 
da Pavement." 

Orbec, now a station on a branch line from 
Lisieux, 12 miles long, opened 1 873, has an old Castle 
and a good Church ; and can bo reached vid GlOS, 
Le Mesnil-Qulllaiiine (above), St. MarOxi- 
de-Mailloc, La ChapeUe-Tyon, &c. 

£Ac 11 miles to the south, on the line between 
Mortagne and Caen, is Livarot, which is noted 
for its Camemhert cheese ; as is also 
ViHOUTiEus, 6 miles further, where manufac- 
tures of coarse linens employ 20,000 people.] 
Leaving Lisieux, the railway runs through the 
valley of Auge, the seat of an ancient county; and 
then through Motte Timnel^ 7,759 feet long, and 
comes out at Houblonni^re, where Cervoise beer is 
made. Its castle belonged to the Knights Templars, 
and is opposite Val-Richer Abbey, once the seat of 
Ouizoty where he died September, 1874. Here he 
was visited by President Thiers. Important agri- 
cultural works here. 

Le tfesnll-Mauger (llf miles), on the Vie 
and Viette, near Capo-Mesnil ChAteau. Further 
on, near the Divei is Piainyllle Ch&teaa. Here was 
the abbey of St. Barbe-en-Auge, which belonged to 
Tankerville, the Conqueror's chamberlain. 

M^Sldon m miles) is near BreuU (and its 
oharob), where a junction with the Mans and 
Alenfon lino is open (see Route 16). Another 
(the Auge Valley) to the sea passes Bissi^res, 
HottOt^ DOSUl4-PutOt (page 48), CabOUTg (a 
ha&daome now watering-placeX and Dlyes 
(page 61). Pass Canon, formerly the scat of ^lie 
de Beaumont, the geologist, to 

Hoolt'Argenoefl iH miles), on the Muanoe, 
under a hiU* pu which is La Hogue camiv supposed 



wme—the only wine in KonuflUdy, and as acid a^ 
vinegar. Its other productions are wax and honey* 
[St. PiBBBB-suB-Divx (5 miles south-south-east) 
has an old abbey church, founded 1046, by a 
Comtesse d'Eu.] 
Further. on, the line passes within view of tha 
plain (bordered by the Muance and the Laizon) 
where the bat tie of Valdea Dunes was fought, 1047, 
l>etween the Normans and French. Wace, in the 
ancient poem of the Homan de Ron, describes it as 
^^ ValeduMs est en Oismeiz 
Entre Argences h Cingueleiz.*' 

Then comes MondevilUt where the stone used for 
the Tower of London and Westminster Abbey wai 

quarried. Fr^aouvUle-Gagny. 

CAEN. 

149 miles firom Paris ; 81i firom Cherbourg, 

Population, 45,201. 

HoTBLS.— Hotel d'Angleterro, first'Class hotel, 
the best in the town. 

Grand Hotel, de la Place Royale \ centre of the 
town. 

Hotel d'Espagne; Hotel St. Pierre; Grand 
Hotel; Hotel de Londres; Hotel Ste. Barbo. 
Buffet at the station. 

Resident English Vke-Consttt, 

Post-Office in Rue de THotd de Vilie. 

Telegraph Office, 22, Rue Singer. 

English Service at St, MiehaeCs Churchy Bne Bd. 
Lenoir. 

lOr Objects of Notiob.— Churches of St. 
Etienne, Trinity, St. Pierre— Castle— Cour dea 
Halle8-^<!)harlotte Corday*s house — Museum. 

A fine old town, capital of department Calvados, 
the old capital of Normandy, in a fertile com 
country, on the Ome, where the Odon joins 
it, three leagues from the Channel. It was called 
Cathein about the time (1066) that William the 
Conqueror, whose favourite seat it was, founded St. 
Etienne's Abbey, in which he was buried; his wife 
Matilda having founded a nunnery at the same 
time. The English, under Eilward III., plundered 
it, 1346, and again, 1417, and held it till 1450. 

Only the remvns of its walls and Its 21 towera 
are now left. It showa to great adyanta|re a» it is 
appro^9h^d< TbQ >tm^8 aro vride, and tli« hop 



r 



« 



SSLuymx^B ^LVBtkxf^ty 



tSec. ^. 



M teofie-^iUe ^^tem^fOMd— which was ttsed formetly 
ik Iteg'Isaid^ IMV01I1I old UfOoden gahle-frouted 
tmft^Qngs, With carvbigs, ord seen. The T>€i4t pro- 
fflfltiftdes are at 6fraiid Comv, Platfe St. Saurenr, 
Place Royale (which has a statue of LoalB XlV.), 
and the Qnajs, to which small rdsselB come p. 
Of-fta dozen ehttrches the most remarkable are— 
aif. ifft*Mne*9 (StephenlB), dr the Abbaye Anx 
fitomimes, Inthe Norman dtyTe, bidlt 1066-77, and 870 
fBBt longr^ wfth tliree towers und two turrets, 8^00 
feet high, a fine west ir^ont,imd a marble slab before 
the altar, marking where the bones x>f the Gon- 
qifskor once rtsted. An Inaoription deaovibes him 
m **j>i »( dM wi >iMW CMitifnm Conguntor, AeJ" The 
abbey bailding8,in the "Etify Pohatedatyle, nnurit, 
are now used as a Lyeenm and Normal School 

Molt/ 2H»fty, or Abbaye Aux Damea, is also a 
larfire and excellent Norman ^ectmeB,cros&-0haifed, 
boiviDg low towers, and a monnmeat of Qireen 
Matilda, its f omidress. The b«ildlng« attached are 
.nowindadad in the S6UI j^ietf, orgenaral Hospital, j 
(boat 1726). 

•St. Pt6»Te,(Peter)ha8 a baautifol light sph;e (bnilt j 
1308), 255 feet h)g^; and a good vai^ted roof. | 

St. Etietme-le-VieuXf a fine polsCedchurdl^, whidh ! 

I 

was used for a com market, has beearestored, and  
has a soi-disant figure of the Conqueror. That of ^^. ' 
Nicholas^ which he built, 1066, in the Normau style,; 
is a store for totagti. St. Jean's Ohur^ haS two ; 
naeiKtafil towera, one of them Ic^aning; St. Bawfeur 
is another fine church; and St. Michaol'B is \a 
inixture of ONorman and other a^les. 

The old Ccutte, boUt by the GonQnaror, reboilt 
by Lonis XIX. and Francis I., is now used as a 
barrack. A Norman Ghapel and Hall remain of 
the old building. The Manoir de PoUent, called 
also the Chateau de Calix, or Gendarmerie, has 
some curious carving about it. lEIOtel do Valois, 
now the Bourse^ or exchange, is also ornamented 
with statues, Ac The Cour des Holies, or de la 
'teonnaie, deserves notice, as does the ffdtel de 27kin, 
in Rue St. ^eon. Charlotte Corday's House is in the 
same street. 

The Hotel de Ville^ in Place Royale, has a 

Gallery of 400 pictures, among which are 

^t^amgino'B 'Mfarrtage crf'ttie Ti^vfti, and P. Vtero- 

1Ma*8 PHpfU iitto ^wpti also the pnUic Library 

irtih SO^WO tolniMB, and 60Q nianiucrlpta^ 



Other building are.'fhe HOtel de la Prefecture; 
the Palais de Justice, with a colonnade round it; 
Xtuseum of natural history and anatomy in the fine 
hew Palais de Y University. The University 
was fouuded by Henry VI. 6t England. There 
are also schools of fiedicinQ, Architecture, 
Navigation, ftc., with an Antiquarian and other 
Societies; Botanic Gardens, Deaf and Dumb 
School, Le Bon Sauveur Lunatic Asylum, Hospital, 
Barracks, Abattoir, &c. They show the house 
(corner of Rue Notre Dame) where Malherbe, the 
poet, was bom; Bishop Hnet was also a native, 
and wrote'an acconnt of the town. Theimf ortu- 
nate tetm Bmmmel died here, tn thB asylum, 
faBYing held ihe post itf ConsuL Remains of the 
ptdaee df the Bishops of -Bayeux, 14th -century. 

Manufacture of toce, which the people seem to 
work at all day. Great trade in stone. Rail 
to Granville, St. Lo, Avranches, Vire, &c.; by 
steam, dafly, to Havre in 3 or 4 hours. A line is 
open to Flers and Laval. 'Several good village 
churches are seen in the neighbourhood; and 
within a distance of 6 or *& miles are Ardaine 
AS^beff", the Norman chapel of Ifdtfe Dame de la 
Dilivrande (near 'Jthavres^ visited by Louis XI., 
In 1^71), a great resort o'f pilgrims, on the road to 
the baihing-place of Courseullesi and the Castles 
of 'CreuUly and 'Fontaine-Henri. Rail open to the 
sea-side, Id mfles, vid DoUYTeS (above), Luo- 

Bor-tter, Langnme, fit Anlfln-Bxir-Her, 
Ck>urseulle8 (above), and Uon-sor-Her, all 
situated along -the reeky shore <tf Oalvadoa, and 
firsiiiiieiitedln'thevattmar Sanson. Railto'GlbeiS 
-VHld, 9r€m% and •Bontli'VilfMt (page i7>. 

A sliort line, 21 mires, opened 1866, runs to 
Aiizia7-Bt.*QeoTVB8. 

From Oaen, on the rail to Gberhourir* yon pass 
Maladrerie <1 mile) or BeauUeu, a house of deten- 
tion, on the site of a lepers' hoapitai, loimded.by 
Henry II., of England. 

BnttoVlUa (H)i with n good jchucb tptrc, is 
n«ar thatof iV^0irey,tntbeiwi«£agrly:Potatadatyle. 

Aildxten (S| miles). 

Bayeuz (6i miles), an old-looking place, the 

snetent CMtas Af^ooant'tnii, n *sotBHpii8feclnre, nud 

-seact ofa blsfaoprio, with'8,102'BOttla,-nvlDw Anxo, fn 

, «l«rtUe«poti ti miaa lot tta iPaftUrfftvr place of 

■5 



Boute 11.] 



HAND-BOOK ^O TBAlffCV. 



/ 



49 



worsted work on course linen, about 280 feet long, 
and 20 inches wide, worked by Queen Matilda, to 
vepresent the Conquest of England by her husband. 
It is shown at the public library' (25,000 yolumes) ; 
and a copy of It made by the Antiquarian Society 
of London is at South Kensington. 

The Cathedral, on the site of that built, 1077, by 
the Conqueror's brother, Bishop Odo, is of the 12th 
century; and has three carved porches, two towers, 
246 feet high; with good oak stalls, and a crypt 
of the 11th century; it is 334 feet long. 

At the BUhop't PcHaee is a series of portraits. 
The H6ttl DieuwAs a chapel, built 1206; the Hdtel 
de Yille is ancient. There are two other churches, 
a museum, public baths, a new corn-market, col- 
lege, &c., and a house in Rue St. Malo, whore A. 
Chartior, the poet, and his brothers, were l)om, in 
the I5th century. Much fine lace made here. 
Hotelt. — Du Luxembourg; Achard; du Lion d'Or. 

Coach (6 to 8 miles) to Port^en-Bessin, Arro- 
manehes, Asnelles, and CourseuUes, pretty little 
fishing and bathing places, with good sands. 

The road to St. Lo turns off here, but the nearest 
station is Lison. The Socage, or woodland, 
between this and Isigny, is very fine. 

Across the Aure and the Dromme to CrOTUty 
(5 miles). 

Le Holay-Littry (4 miles) is near Fonnigny 
(7i miles), where the English were beaten in 1405, 
and obligred, finally, to give up Normandy. 

LlBOn (7| miles). Branch rail to St. Lo (see 
Route 14), &c. 

Nenllly (Calvados), 5f miles, where a branch 
of 5 miles turns off, vid PontHlU-Vey, to 
iBlgny, a pretty little port, in the bay of Isigny, 
at the mouth of the Virc and Aure, on the Channel, 
noted for its fresh and salt butter, in which it 
carries on a large trade, and its cider. 

Bridges over the Vlre and the Tante. 

CardHtan m miles), a fortified town at the top 
of a creek, in the Cotentin peninsula. Good church, 
and a ruined ch&teau fort. 

Rail to Coutances, 15 miles (see Route 14). 

[About 12} miles west is the Abbey of Blanche- 
land, founded in the 12tb century. On the coast, 
6 miles west-south-west, is the Norman Abbey 
Church of Lessay. Jersey is in the distance.] 

Cnief-<lU-Font (7 1 miles) is not far from St«. 



Mhre Eglite, which has a good churchi 12th to 14th 

centuries, and a trade In butter and cattle. About 

6 miles north-east of it, is the Orande Chemindt of 

Qiiin<$ville, on the coast, a singular rock, 27 f«et 

high ; reached by coach from Valogncs, 9 miles. 

[About 10} miles to the west, at St. Sauveur, on t he 

Douve, is a ruined Abbey, founded by the Har- 

courts, with an old Castle, which Edward IIL 

gave to John Chandos.] 

Montebourg (5} miles). 

ValOgnes (17i miles), a sous-prdfecture of fi,7dl 
souls, on the Merderet, near the site of the Roman 
Alauna or Lonia. It has a college of some preten- 
sions, and a library of 15,000 volumes. It formerly 
had a castle of William the Conqueror. 
[About 7} miles west-south-west, is Brigiuebee 
castle, with a keep 100 feet high. Near this are 
the Grosses Roches (upright stones), and a 
Trappist convent At 10 miles north-east is St. 
Yaast-la-Hougue, (mentioned below), to which 
and to Barflcur there is a line. Then follow 
Sottevast (5 miles). CoUYllle (4f miles), and 
HartiUVast (H miles); and 4^ miles further, at 
the end of the peninsula of Cotentin, is 

CHERBOURG, 230 miles from Paris. 

Hotels. — Hotel des Bains de Her, very good 
first-class hotel. 

Hotel de 1' Aigle; Hotel de VUnlvers ; Hotel da 
TAmirautd, on the Quay. 

Protestant Chapel, in Rue du Yieux Qua!, opened 
1835. 

Resident English and American Consuls. 

Post and Telegraph Office, Rue de la Fontaine. 

Population, 38,554. A strong naval station and 
fortress of the first class, seat of a maritime prefect, 
(fee, on the cliffs, at the mouth of the Divette, which 
spreads into a wide road or bay, with the great 
breakwater, called the Digue, in front. A circle of 
heights, crowned with strong fortifications, com- 
mands every part of the town and roadstead; so 
that a vessel, on entering, is exposed to the fire < f 
above 100 of the heaviest ordnance, wliUo the 
arsenal and forts are safe from shot. It is about 
60 miles due south of the Needles, and would 
make a good commercial port if ueepcn«3d. 

The town is a collection of narrow streets, and 
houses of stone and slatr. A quay lines the com- 
mercial dock, or Port du Commerce^ at the gap of 



r 



%h» vh«r. W« povt eKtcttiilt fik%ard t6 f&e ]«Ae- ' 
tltfoof ^heTr<Htobeo, wlieretln flofttei&tteapToek, > 
Alth ft foxtrMfl on the'so'taimtl, rtoei vlptVl fttol high 
(t wfts.aioeoded by ihe Qoeen, at her vlflftiltt 1858. : 
A floating btsbi, or avant port, Ib kept cldir f>y 
ik<uaA of a eao«l d« i«tfon«, or 4alo6^ in Its rw. 

¥he Meddt Vfttthiib Vanbitii*B orlgfnkl plan of 
- tifi« aTMinal^ a 'gallery of Pictures, Ac^ chiefly 
French and Flemish, ^e<taeathed bya native, T. 
Henry, whose bast is ti6r%': ^th ^ Library of Mo6 ' 
Yo^ttsies^ 'and a 'Hnmuih. Th YronV te % pfn&r to the 
%)%c'do derrf, ^'^ 'a ^of&i^lfi virt out of a tiinglh 



ntarrwcn for 'SCMUnen and s<!nT[icn, x^iegnipli wScg, 
<feo. fintriiAeb is granted oniy bV %f^^clfitl ^p^ixna- 
"ifion'. A^pply to the BnglUn Oovratd. 

Uto Uigne^ or BrMkwater, offthe to^nni,fs A Vreitt- 
iuater, 9,780 mUres, or 4,184 yiftrds foiig (H titxres 
longer than thfttil nynMmt'h>,knd ^(hn fti^'alA o a fd. 
tt wia begtm 17B2, carried on by Napoleon and ix>ai8 
Philippe, and completed 1888; the stones \>elhjg'8tq>- 
)Aled In nftakhig the docitt, and sank in greltl 'conies. 
It was npon (me of thes^ cones that C^i^itain Trenton 
grounded in ttfeHlnerTe, 1^8,ttfrd iNrks tak^ hfter 
• awmg^le of 881ioferk to iiACitp^. Vln bi^saltwfiter 
! Is streiigthoned "by ^FdrH Ok Smti»t, Wdkf l^e 
uAddto, wfalcfa letories a ITght; oO^ IMit^ ^d 
lights Wfe pWced en /?« /%f^, near ^lie «iifift%oi^r, 
where the "Aray In Is 14 mRe ffrokd'; -tend on WHit 



.1 <- 



«<■?-»-*- iff:,;,,; ,,,\tT, 

viocK VI giauirv. 

We. ^Mtdti KibrafiSbj near the i^ea, "^ \)Uili ^tl>8, > 
except the ^^fbet, kdM ^82^; It fk 1^1 'fe^^lo'hg. '^ 

^%e ciiitaiiel 'ck S^otre b'atoe ^t ^oro (i.e.^ of the ^^^ 

t^o^) 111 % ip6\ callecl C^anterelne, an^ only' QMr^/uevme, <m tlife bifcfnland, to lift Wtrft, •frfrtJro 

tho^fafr wayftf of aiaane broad, ttiere krt ^rcnn 
"8 to 7 fisthoms at lo4 wttCer ¥n!fide. 

.tlic ten^tish held this townl4l8-^0, and again in 
17S8, lirhen General Bligh burnt the old 'dockyard. 
Jame^ ij. was here at the b&ttle o'f La ^ogue; 
'Charles X. embarked here, 1830. 

Conveyances: To Barfleur and St. Vaaat; l>y 
•team, to Havre, in 10 bonn; to Sootiuuupton. 

Toarlaville Castle (16th century), noV k Kkhxx, 
andgl&ss factory, lies to the sda&^easi 

A Ihie, Vf\ mttes, opeiaed 1884, y U A M nfe fidm 
Sottevast <page 19). conneets Oliettiotii<i^ iji^u^ 
directly with Ck>atance8 <page 62). 

From Cherbourg, to the east, a line rton to 
St. Martin d*AudoUvine, Lestrtf ^Qlihitfvflte, ^uet- 
t^hoa, St. Vaast-la-fiougae, and 
^AkPLttnt, a decayed port, ^rtii^ Edward ^I. 
plundered, 18<I8, but Vhldi, In Norman ttnfes, 
'was the starting point for finigland . ^O^ponliiie 
rocks, neirr this, Henry •ftie l!lTift»8 «m, Wl- 
liam, "was lost in the Bkmcfte Ift^^-^ loss 
MAdfa vtrhck ihnih a Mow to Ilie HfHjg^ ^eart 
>Biat1t is%ttd%e!fce^R»ttofl»aJi«e i 'W 7ute . "Co 
the north of it is Cape 2 fa> jfefc f , 'eft 'Cape "de 
<^tevllle, which has a granite Tlgfa^oia6 236 
feet high, wfth an fntermltt^rit hk^, seen 
seveh leagnes off. About 8m. soath'</f -it is St. 
Vtest dd Itk ttMl|ra\B, which -gives name 
to the naval action df La Ho*nfe, I8t^2, when 
'Ru8se!I1jchlrtthe*Wnch'flSBet,'tffidcrr TtotfrVille 



4^ fecit long, I'ejp'rac^'onebuirt by Queen Maude^ 
wh6 %ndcd here 1", a storm, it Is now tM : 
Ynari'trme Hospital. Aholfaer church. In the Gothic 
style, was built Tn ^^31. There are a college^ 
theatre, navigation *rtiool, knd fountains. 

ilife }f<afal Dock and Arienal^'io the north-west^ 
was begah 'bV Napoleon I. Tii 1803, and Is now ' 
comptete. Tlvree ttagnlfloent badns ot docks 
Im^ d^ehed^-^spectfvely ihamcsd Yifter l^apoleon, 
Charles X., and Louis Philippe, each a^bout #56 
1r^ foo^, iind nearly as broad; they havis beeA 
excavated out of the sla'ty clJIftt by gunpowder. ' 
Tfi^y iA<e lar^ «nd deep %nongh (00 to 70 feet) t6 
hold any number of line-of-battle ships re^tre^ 
for insuAit lP6rVi<S9. They lirfere ojiened In form by 
the fete I^iperdrLoiiis^apoWn, In the presence of ' 
^a§<m Vkttfrtli, Ift the snmitfcr of l^B-, oin <which < 
^jocfttfon tlieivuds #ere eroWdM ^wtfb Kngniih ani 
ffrWMfli mim^-wail, and tfie Vessel^ df ^he Ytelit \ 
Clubs. A Vhie granite 'Statue at Nftpoleon Was also 
■sat np, With an fnscrtptiofe firdtn 'oirfe of Ms S|iri a< .h e«, 
•«^ai vAolu de mouvtittr % C ttto »e«» 8 lilts WsK- 

; ^«M<V tbs tNNitlsrs iif JB^^^iff^Wlrteh these vast ^ 
tMvinpln of engineering skill afiAbst rival. 

Arouiift are sl)^ building slfps Xctfles de co^istruc 
%hm) on granice piers ; dry dodck tformns deradoub) • " 
blacksmiths' shops (ateliers des forged ^ timber' 
HmH (hf.ng'ar %u bois), 960 feet long; niiKihin^ ' 
%ftdrJb '<AtBlf^ra des machines) ; WIfli '&«giaH$W 

. Ttt!rti^togBaf», MlMsflufa ^siffle d«B4u6<lbi€s),'{Kj^ 



flOQlnb 12 and 18.] 



iBo^am-^xf^K «o MAii^ft. 



was the ■eU'ctf Al«k. 'de TooqaeTiUe. 

Fi^m Cherboarfif, by road trafl itt0ff«©t*4), to 
Boatimont (10 miles), andtbeh to 

K)AFK lA Hagus <7 railes), which Is sottietlMies 
'confounfltod with St. Vaast 46 La Hottgtie. It 
!has several reefs roond it, aiid on tlte Gros dn 
«az rock, a fixed Light, 167;feet Mgh, seenttx 
leagues roond. The Kaoe of Alderttey, Wh^-e 
•th« 'Mde 'rims bIjc nftd leven Writes em 1«Jir» 

divides It '&om AldeFhey add (th6 •0^itt»€!UMM62 
Islands in the distance.] 

Llftleiix to 'Bont I'fev^Que, Ttou^viide, ! 
and fionilenr. 

By branch ra</, to Pont I'Evfique and Bonflenr, 
with a branch at the former to Trouville. From 
Honfleur, Bouen may be xeached by road to Pont 
Audemer, then by rail; or by road all the way. 

XisieBZ, as in Boute 11. 

lie Breiyi <6i mile»). Then 

PoatAVrd^ve^^ zDiles), a 'Bnotell imm^eiv^ 
tore ^f 8,068 sonte, in ike vltlley of the TtoA^nes, 
whifre Cbey maike lacib and goo&eheete. It ha^'an 
4>ld ebtiroh and -Stittittti 'bofiiw, ¥rith *a trade In 
%oi%s and tibttle. F<ntiieirly ft W8b eaUefl Wont 
*« As TocAtf, ehtoged t6 Tfivetftie b^aliishop ^ 
liistens, VhorebtiHt fhebi^idge. Sdta : Brasd^r. 

lF0fl«tt6tl<(^te.') €h«ffdb,11^V4$^ij«&ry:; iKfns 
of %he*fortfll«i«<9»8teiiti-<tf iBMJi!h€f>fflte, *8«h o«nt«y . 

TronvUle-DeaUYllIe. 'nnder^the liiilh of the 

Channel ; 'frequented from if tee to September, 

when i^teamc^n^ run 'to Havre. The 'popnlation 

has risen to B,62d since Alexandre Boma'a first 

"brought it into notice, tt hUs ft beacJh of fine 

' sand. *rhere are many pdliits of attraction round 

it, and bathing station^ are rising lap Bt Villbbs- 

'suk-Meb, Houlgatb, DEAUViLti, and VrtaLns- 

' ViLLE, halfway to Jlonfleqr. 

Hotels.— ^otel Boches Ndlres'; de Paritr ; de la 
Plage ; Belle Vue; dbBfas d*Oir. 
'[Rail from here to TKT^, 't^ibbtHPtS, sea-side 
resorts at the mouth of a fiver where the 
Conqueror collected part of his fleet, for 
invading England fn 1066. The rooks, flowofs, < 
and fossils are not«i1. ^r&tn Dives by rail, }| 
mile, tott<H;afelAe-^6liiMV«a,«wo bathl&g- 



M 



▼iiltctfs, •i«8llrtg4mo te*portrfn<jo.5 
^om ■porit'I'Eveqtie, the wad to Hdirflfetir piidib 
the old castle otBonnevUle, a favourite seat of tfte 
Conqueror's '(see btilow); whHe the tafl rutis 
througli a tunnel to OfuettevUlB (»tat.), 8 ndle* ; 
fend Canapvme, ahd passes the Old churdh aiid 
chateau of 'CrlquebflBuf; iPhence, "bfetwien ttie 
heights which overlook the town, to 

fionflenr (8 miles firom Quettevifle), a port of 
9,460 souls, and an attractive watering place; 'the 
harbour, with a pier, three basins, and large build- 
ing slips, is being much improved. It has several 
old streets and wooden houses. St. 6atherifle's 
Church, which at first was built in the 6th centuiy, 
of wood, has two pictures by Rubens' pi^ptlsl 
ijordaens and Qiiellin. St. leohair^'s Is ns bli as 
the 12th century. Wom the little fishermen's 
chapel of Notr^ Dame de Grace^ on the CdU ^ 
Grace, 326 feet high, outside £he towta, 't'here is a 
fine sea view, which embraces lIa>TiB, ie fi§ve 
Lights, Tancai-ville ^Castle,. Qulfte'bteiif, ic. 'The 
•present chapel, which is a favourite resort, dates 
from 1606 ; but t'he first one was built by Bobert I., 
of Normandy, in fulfilment of a vow made lii' a 
storm. Cours d'Orleans Is a good promenaae ; iin 
excellent profcifectifs feot froih lA Boque, up the 
lirOc. M Croix Rouge, near this town, Zsuw 
Philippe enlbarked in the EspresSy in his flight to 
iBngland, 1848, aftra: an unsuccessful attei^ at 
Trouville. 

The rocks about HonflenrooFreopDixd wUh'those 
of the Isle of Wight and -fiie Dorset ooBst ^fiposite 
^(OHBlk, gyeea isitild, bltte taiarj). MfSB^ firn^.and 
butter are sent to Bilglaild, and there is a trade in 
honey, cider, und trii. 'JBIgh -water at moon's 
change, abotit^ Oh. 

-&b^e7«.— Du'Cheval^lanc ; des kbtnes de^lnfticej 
de la Paix. 
Resident BngUsh Consul; and tai Bnitish'Cftar^ 



Houen to fidtffreusr, l^itlUL 

Distance, 42 miles; but it may be done by rrfil, 
via Tourville and Elboauf to Pont Audemer 82 
miles; theaoo to Honfleur by road. 

Boven, mm -Boute 8. ^ road 46 



St 



BSADSHAW'g ILhVSTKAXKD 



[Sees, 



Fbtit QnsTiLLT (9 miles), on the wNitli aide of the 
Seine, ao called, they say, after the fence (cheHOe) 
made hy the Norman dukes round their hunting 
grounds. It has St. Julien's Norman Chapel (now 
restored) hnilt by Henry II. of England. A little 
Anther is Orand Queviajft which had an immense 
Protestant dmrchin Henry lY.'s time, pulled down 
in 1686. The Princess de Montmorency's Cli&teau 
Is near. 

HouLiaxAVx (5 miles), in a fine spot, has a 
little spire church ; and, on a hill, the picturesque 
remains of the CastU of a fierce soldier, Robert le 
Diable (of Pepin*s time), the hero of Meyerbeer's 
opera. It was destroyed by King John, who, 
aocording to some authorities, killed his nephew, 
Arthur, here. 

La. BoniLLB (2| mites), to which steamers from 
Bouen come, stands under the cliffs, and is a 
IhTOUrite trip of the citizens. De la Londe Forest, 
Caumont quarries, and Jacqueline grotto, are near. 

BouBZAKCHAXD (4| mlles). 

Pont Andemer OH miles), a station on the Glos. 
Xontfort and Pont Andemer line (see Route 11). 

Honfleur is 18| miles further, as in Boute 13. 
Thence by rail to Pont VEydque and Caen; or by 
eoast road to Trourille. 



Lison to St. Lo, Ckmtances, Ayrandies, 

and Mont St. MlcneL 
IdBOn Stati<m, on the Cherbourg line, as in 

Boute 11. 

The next stations are 

Alrel (S miles). La Meanflto, and 

Font Bebert (> miles). At 6 nflles further is 

8T.L0. 
194| mUes from Paris. 

JJolelf.— Dn Cheval Blanc ; du Soleil. 
. Population, 11,44J{. An ancient town, and capital 
of department Manche, once the seat of a bishopric, 
founded by St. Laudvs^ M9. It stands in a pretty 
spot, on a rock by the Vlre. The Normans destroyed 
It in 890, but afterwards restored it, though it was 
almost ruined agahi in 1346, by Edward IIL, who 
took it by storm. 

The Cathedral Church of Notre Dame Is on the 

hill, near Petite Place ; it is chiefly Gothic, of the 

' ' ^h century, with two tall spires, 364 ft^ in its west 

Yhich is of later date. A ston* pulpit stands 



outside. The celebrated image of the Tbgin, 
called Notre Dame du PHier, is beliered to possess 
wottder-woridng powers. Another diurch, St. 
Croix, rebuilt 1860, replaces one attached to the 
Abbey, founded by Cliarlemagne aixmt 810, when 
the town was walled round and improved. There 
is a salle de spectacle, also public baths, a Museam 
of antiquities, a Library of 4,500 -volumes, Ac. 
A Boman stone, called tlie Marbre de Torigny, 
serves as pedestal to the bust of Le Yenier, the 
astronomer, and joint discoverer of Neptono, bom 
here 181L 

Lace and ribbons are made; trade in earalry 
horses, which are bred at the hanu near SL Croix. 
Bail to Granville, Ac. The strategical coast line 
is apea to Contanees, via CarantHlf-Marigmm ; and 
v(d QuettevQle and FMignf, to Avranches, 
Mortain, Dol, Dinan, Lamballe. 

Contanoes (ITmOes west-south-west), formerly 
ComUmtia, a sous-pr^ecture and bishopric, on a 
hill, 4| miles from the sea, to which the Soule river 
runs. Population, 8,145. IthasaGothicCSiiMcdra/, 
with two west spires, clustered pillars in the nave 
(which is 100 feet high), and an octi^on lantern, 
with a view of the (Tliannel Islands. Other build- 
ings are the churches of St. Nicholas and St. Pet^, 
a Librsry, Theatre, HOtel Dien. Near the Palais 
de Justice is a bronze figure of iVtuee X«6rtM, 
finance minister under Napoleon. There are 
remains of fortifications, and of an Aquedmet called 
Les PiUiers, from the columns it rests on. EoUis. — 
De France ; d' Angleterre. 
[In theneighbonrhoodare, thePont-de-la-Boqae, 
St. Ckrbold's hermitage ; the Casties of Begne- 
ville, Manny; and the abbeys of Blancheiande 
and Hambye — ^the latter founded by the 
Paganels, who settied at Newport Pagnell, in 
England. 
YnxKBAUDOir (12 miles), at the head of the Boole. 
Pbkct (4 miles) was the seat of WiUiam de Pertf^ 
who went over to England with the C<mqueror; 
and, being snmamed Algernon (whiskered), 
Algernon has always been a favourite name in 
that family.] 

AVBANOHES as| miles). 
Near St Michael's Bay, on the sea ooast, in a pretty 
spot, is a sous-prefecture of 7,785 inhabitants, some 
of vdiom are English, who hare Nttled here* Th0 



Boute 15.] 



BJLHD-B0O& TO FRANCS* 



5d 



^ 



lUMnans callod It Abrinem In^mx; and it was for- 
tified by St. Lonis. 

St. Andres Cathedral Chnrch, built about 1120, 
by Henry II. of England, was pulled down at the 
Rerolntion ; the only remains of it are a stone in 
Place Huet on which Henry II. stood to do 
penance for Becket. The Public Library, of 15,000 
Tolnmes, has also 200 MSS. (including one of 
Ab€Iard's, which M. Cousin published in 1836). 
Museum at the former Bishop's Palace. Statue of 
Valhubert, a native, who fell at Austerlitz, in the 
Bishop's Garden, now a public walk. Grand view 
of Mont. S. Michel from the Jardin des Plantes. 
Good walks. ZToteZf.— DeLondres; d'Angleterre; 
de Bretagne; de France. Trade in strain, cider, 
hops. JBngliih Church*Serviee. Conveyances toldomt 
St. Michel. Bail to Granville, Vitr^, Pontorson 
for Mont St. Michel), Pol, St. Malo (pages 78-5). 

[The famous Mont Bt. Michel (10 miles south- 
west), in name, appearance, and history, is very 
like St. MiehatVi Mount, in Cornwall. It is a 
heap of mgged granite, very steep on the north 
aide, bnt sloping on the east andsouth,where the 
people (SOO), with their little gardens scraped 
flrom the rocks, Uts round the old Ahbeff. 
The beach below it is a shelly sand, completely 
covered at high water; but a causeway leads 
out to it, available at all states of the tide. 

Here a Monastery was founded in a-d. 709, on 
the site of a Druid station and became a noted 
place of pilgrimage. It is now government 
property, and is shown for a fee of 1 franc. 
The visitor passes through the gates of 
the medisBval walls at the base to the 
little straggling town; above which rise the 

. eonvsnt buildings. They are reached by steps 
cut in the rock, and by gateways, the entrance 
being flanked by two solid towers. The convent 
pile, calledZa Merveille, contains three storeys ; 
on the first are the Salle des Oros Piliers, and 
the refectory of the monks ; on the second is a 
fine hall called the Salle des Chevaliers ; and 
at the top are the beautiful Cloisters. It was 
restored by Vioilot le Due. The Church is 
partly Norman, with a fine Gothic choir, under 
which is the crypt, resting on great pillars of 
friinite* See Bradshaw"* Guid$ to Brittany. '\ 



ROUTES TO THB WEST, VIA THE CHEMIH 
DE FEB DE L*OUBST. 



Paris to VersallleB, Chartres, Le Ham, 
Alengon, Bexmes, and Brest. 

By rail to Brest, 387 miles. Station for Brest, 
Mont Pamasse ; for Versailles, as the traveller may 
prefer; either 24, Boulevard Mont Pamasse, for 
the rive gauche (or left bank of the Seine) ; or 24, 
Rue St. Lazaire, for the rive droite (or right bank). 
The first reaches Versailles by Bellevue; the 
second by St Cloud. Omnibuses to all the trains. 
Four trains a day to Rennet^ in 9} to 18 hours. 

Trains to VersaUles in forty minutes. VersaiUet 
Palace and Park, and the Trianons, are open daily, . 
except Monday, from 11 to 4. 

This line, to Versailles (8 kil.), is one of the 
Lignet de Bmdieuet ^'^ the stations are as follow :— 
Glamart, Sevres, '^rofiay, 

Meudon, Chaville, VersaUles. 

Bellevue, 

Leaving the station at Mont Pamasse, near 
Barri^re du Maine, you have the Cemetery on the 
left, and the large suburb of Vaugtrard on the 
right, towards the river Seine. Beyond the lines 
are Vanves and Issy, and their detached Forts. 
The last conflict between BlUcherand Davoust took ' 
place at Issy, 1815. Its Fort, as well as that of 
Vanves, was destroyed in the siege of 1870-1, and 
much damage done. Vanves Chiteau is a work 
of Mansart's. 

Tramway to VersaiUea, 12 miles, from the 
Louvre. 

Clamart-80U8-Meudon (3 mlle8),near Meudon 
Forest. It suffered much in 1810, when the railway 
station was destroyed. A hydropathic estaliUsh- 
ment here. A little further is the Viaduet of Val 
Fleury, on a double row of arches, 108 feet high, 
with Fleury to the left, and Les MouUnceaux, ou 
the Seine, to the right. 

Meudon (l mile), in department Seine-et-Oite. « 
is a pretty place, near Meudon Forest, under the 
Cbdttau built by Louis XIV.'s son, restored hj, 
NM>olcon for Marie Louise, and destroyed dorlnf 4 
the bombardment of 1971. An avenoei 4iO jv^^ 



54 



siuMJiAipV lUWKtajk'OB^ 



fSeCiSL 



low >1 M V^oMt Im3i| «9 ta ik9 tne TenajQ^in 
front of it, eompppM^Sw^ 'Wt PT«P«ct over Paris 
and the Seine. The Chftteau is now transformed 
into an astron«alBalob8eryaix>ry. It was atone 
tlOMkOOflnpled by FvbMi93^po]^epi»,,ao4iiRa»sedji^d 
during the, Qiexmm oecu^ion to a heap of ruins. 
It stands In a small park (laid ont by Lendtre) of 
618 acres, taken from the Forest. Near the railway 
is ^otre Dame des Flammes chapel, a triangnlar 
banding, with spires at the comers, commemorat- 
ing the death of nearly 150 persons, 18th May, 
18i^ who were bui^it to deal^ b^ the carriages 
taking fire. Oi\e of the yictims lijraa Admiral 
D^Unrflle^ Rfi^laif wfstttnjUr Qar€ of ^endon. 
Glass and pottery are made. ' ~ ' 

'B^eTfia (I mile), where Madame de Fompa- 
dieftr Ikad a spIencKd seat, ts near 

Sevres (see Rente 10) and the Riire Droite Une. 

'CftAVUto (31 »iles)v 

VlMflRFCi n^«)^ apvettjr Bp^^ iriMUvik^bnttc]^ 
of 2| miles, to 'Vlersailles taraaoff, past BatitMont- 
renil, t« ▲▼«»«• de laltfaiito^ ol>posite the Palace. 
The Rire Oanche station is near the HMet de YOle. 

xa kiL or iH wMi9« U<m Vnf^. 

^OTiiL9.--^otel dtt C^4 ^ ^. ?oti^ ^^jifiki 
dt/k ]^aerroMr«t de France. C^f^. ^^e4^«|ura«^^ 
dt ^ Combes l^Ko. dea ^4fitm<^^fk ^ 

4M^. (^fm9h Sei^vUfiti H St, Mark'« Chwi^h, 
2^d«^^treLebra% ^nadi^, IJ^ an4 4. 

Paris. 

^* Objeota or NoTio«.—C?thiwlral,— Notre 
Dame— Jen de Panme— Louis XlV.'s Chapel- 
Palace and Oalleries — Fountains— the Trianohs. 

'fte capita! of department Seine-et-Oise (fbr- 
mar)^ Ite ck l^xmee, Hu^h Ca^t*8 patrimony), seat 
of a bishop, tribunals, Ac, and of a magnificent 
Paktce of the later Bourbon kings, which has been 
tamed into a National Museum since 1887. 

It was a mere hunting lodge of Henry lY. and 
others, till Louis XIIL, in 1624, built a brick 
Cftitean here, to wUch Louis XIT., '*le Grand 
Monarqne,** at he is styled, added the Pmh»ee 
(IMl-81), gardens, and parks (twenty miles in 
dfooit), at a raat expense ; some say tea miUloai) 
«iM« «n«i« ittlUtolM, flerlliig* 



A nev' slreet) Rjdft S^omQe/V^Btmeii (who haa done 
so much for art here), leads from ^» stetioa to 
Avenae de ?af is, the main^ street^ 'vh^cfa^ at Plaoe 
d'Amxes, oppoeite the Palace, n^eets. th^ATenaea • 
de.St. Clpud and de Sceanx. It ia 968 feet wid^o, 
and well plante4,^and 4ividi^ tjhe tpwn into t:«co, 
pSiirish^s, 

That of NojUr^ 9An|^ to |l^e npii^tb, inclad/BatJl. 
Ma]]Bart:a J^^ Cbap^ Wt ^84; t^ Pal^c^. 
Jnaticoi behinA t.ho &9tt,k sH^ables ;. PIa«e ^opbe^ ia, 
^?hi«h is, tlMiit gei^eraA'a. i^»imi }ivTafi^ i % large 
market ;, the Y^^erin, oi[ girand, hijuj^majn^'s bfA^ i, 
and ^1^ ;ixo dr(^ railway sta^oiv 

In the south, or St. Louis's parish^ in OMt Tei*- 
sanies, 18 the Pr^iure; also the Hdtel de Yille, 
and riyo gauche station, dose to another pile of 
8tableft(now a barr*ck); tiie €ti'eoian (Utthedrai^ 
built 1743; the Ifaxcb^ Sit. Loai»; tho Menua- 
Plaisjbrs,. ^4 barracks.;; «nd a ^n^ building».^a 
^o^ 4u /(^tt<4^a«»ii^,,^bcretbe SUtes-Qenerai, 
oir Nationail, i^ssembly, ni^et 1^89, before they nooved 
to Paris, ^ere they awoj^e neyer to sep^ra^te till 
tta^. Cons^ution waa fixmjly, established. It con- 
taAiUtpletUiVeaby B-Yeiaet* TherQ are ajbu) V^ths 
an4^pri|Bst8*BemiBj|xy. A)! the streetaai;e reg^lar 
and well built. Rue Satory is macaclaHusea for the 
me 0^ thetvoops at the experimental ca^ on the 
Plains of St^ttny^ where ^o»el and Ferr^ tho 
c^KU^n^^ ]fia^v^ were ^ot, l^ox^qa^bc^Ci 1^71. 
BAUc^f pipttfl^ ^be town, in \SX&^ 

irhft Flaee d'Aiflsea, MO feet bvoai^ brings yon to 
theCtoifrd'lfomK«iraBdthea>ifrdsi£air6ii«k96«fcct 
broaa, in frooik of Loute £m.*s ehfttoau, w^ere 
Leols XI V.Hi and sfaiteea other statues are placed. 
Totbeilgkt and left are ranges of bnMding>Bt as 
Loate l^Y.'s cqfierahoiise; ^e bSbttoU>^«e» w pub- 
He Library of .40^eOAiwlninie«; the Grand(Comi^ane, 
now a mmtary heq^tal; and Louis ^(Y.'sb^uli^al 
Cbt^h 'wtth itft Mgh-pitckefik root, wbwe Mtarie 
Antoinette, waa married. Behind the old ebftteaa, 
fikcing the gardens, is the main or west firont of the 

Palace of Versailles, a noble Ionic range, 1,400 
feet long, something in the style of Somerset House, 
as seen ftom the river, but with the wings thrown 
back from the domed centre. It was the work of 
Mdruartj and has 108 columns, in groups of ft>iir 
to eight each, and S75 windows and doon, wl^ a 



I^t^^t^J 



ujkj$MiMa^ «a tluvcit. 



65 



^ 



rocMus vb4 OT tt.< ftr i»|, a* r«rtwroii| b]r l<oni« f ttllipp*, 

c/^ (T^j^Q^ 243, $|fj^ long; Cabinet of> I«ni» XllS. 
(^J^o ipriTa^ n^>i^ed l^^qi^ d^ MaUi(e«oa 
h^«>l ^ioais I(y|.*a Ckam^, wtMnt kfi iJbiavcwl 
blisusfit vi|k tka cap of liberty |o tbe people b«k>w 
(a £oai)9 o^ftceiTt Aui^iMirte, and bit friend Boor- 
r^ne, l^i^iog 8p%ctatora) ; tbe Gbambec wkere the 
feroQ^ns nob bjroke in on Harie Antoinette; and 
oibfr rooBOUi ; all noir Oiled wStb marbles, tapeatry, 
busts, portraits, and statoea ol eminent Freofcli 
soldiers; a markie gallery ; and above 1,100 Aitsi- 
<^ (good, bad, and indifferent), dedicated it tontes 
leaglolres dela l^rance; indndlng portraits of admi- 
rals, marabals, generals, Ac. ; works of tbe time of 
Louis XIY.; rlews of royal palaces; paintings of 
baitlea from Giovls, down to H. Yemefs battle 
of Isly, In Algeria. On tbe ceiling of the Salon 
d*Hercule is a master-piece of LeoK^e's, the 
"Apotbeoala oC Hercules,*' a composition of 143 
figures. The ultramarine in the sky alone cost i6400. 
IJturing tbe Inyestnent of Paris, 1870-71, the Palace 
became the head^qnavters of tbe King of Frossla, 
w^o was ^ere proclaimed German Sinperox, 18Ui 
February, 1871. The l^iitional Assembly v^ei from 
1871 ib 1880, in tbe Theatre, having removed to 
it from Bordeaux, when the Commune occupied 
Paris. (See Oalignof^ts Fori* ^i^ifk and Bradshatp't 
Bffnd-BooJt to Pw:UJ 

^e ^txieaa. 9» I^Htle Piarlt, THsare told oo^ by 
Lendtre, or his disciples ; and compri|e fl bMUtiftll 
Orangery (o;ie t^e? (a as old 9^ l^}\ a^d f |p[eat 
nuttier 'oi( terraces, alH^A, ^rterres, t>09(^uet4, 
pieces of water, ^., ornaniented with rases an^ 
statuaryXthi^t by l<ebrup, at tlie Bassin d*Ap6llon, 
for example), "the cfoiire walk, called Ta^ Veri, 
or green carpet, leads to the Grand Canal (a cross- 
skaped piece of water), and tke FoutUaiiu, which 
are supplied by forcbig pnmps a| Marly (Uiougk 
Lottis XIV.^ Intention was to bring water from 
f be Eure, by tbe aqueduct ke began at Maintenon). 
^e .^sMief Samx play the finl Sqmfey of every 
n^oiitb, but tke ijfmsdM Strnx: only on special 10^ 
days. Tlie potager, or klMiea garden, is near tbe 
Jfirdfa Jagk^ made by Louis XVin. when Count 
ofPnRre&ee, «ndthei4ke, called Pibce des Solsses. 
lliiLfU^M ^ no|l •iiBaD]i4ed by: ma opaa Miltikg. 



Towards the north-weit tLtei-^Gran^Trkmm (on 
the atte 9f tbe village oHftwrnawX coaalsUncf^ o^ a 
centre and wings la. tke Italian style, b«M^by 
Kana^t, of v^ble, U^ M«4MMI ^ IftaimlenQft, 
and a^ervfi^a^' oftcffffi^ l^y ^fi^ifm^ AdeMde. 
Here, in 187^ Marshal Bazaine was tr\e^ by a 
court-martial, presided over by the Due d'Aumale. 

•*»»^ » W.,fc.^ ••*! 

Petit Trianon, to the rig-ht, i\ ^ ^Ayllioa 72 feet 
square, built by Louis XV. (who dUd in it) 'for 
Madame du Bairrl. Marie Antoinette ^her room 
remains as 9he left it) and the BucbeoSL of 
Orleans resided h^re. A 4fu^ des Voituresj or 
state carriages, 9la9,ds near t^e T^Iar^onjs. f he 
Trianons can be visited daily, exccj()t Mondays, 
from 12 to 4. Stranger^ had better take their 
passports. The Grea^ Palace of Yersailles i^ open 
daily (except MondayX U to 4 ^.11^ 

?^illip V. of Spain (Lo^is ^lY.'* ^pif*ft*K)n), 
Louis Xyi. and his bro^e^^, i^ttl^'a^.y^^V and 
Charles X^ were born in the fa^aca. Marshal 
Berthier, Generals Kocbe and Gpurgand, and the 
excellent AbM de V^pde were also natives of Yer- 
saU^es. Marchaud'4«^tv|eo( tk^i ^V^^^ 1^?^ 
St. ^iO^) wa»pu^\y? 18i4a. 

Many fossil shells are found round this place. 

[Buo, \\ mile south of Ycrsallles, is a charming* 
little place In the woods above the BlivfiQ 
here crossed by an cujueduct ou nineteen arches, 
70 feet high, built 1688, to supply Yersallics" 
with water. Among other seats is that cMIed 
La JuvMire. Jouy-en-Josas, U mile east of It, 
down the Bibvre, was called Oaugiacum in th^ 
9th century, wiien it belongeU to dt. Gfennain*s 
abbey. The river turns many mills, Mp^f 
factories, Ac] v .:, .. . 

The next statioii to YersaiUea ta 

St. Cyr (8i miles), in tke greaA paxkeimijf- 
saUlas, and ^oq^ «pr m U^kH^BfU J^l^fi9ikff ^ 
infantry cedeta, os^blis^ed kecft. 18(^ bjrKeiWr.^ 
Idon, in piaee of tU«sckeol fW ^unmgbudiun^nv^ 
founded lOao, by Madame de Maintenon, ^o r^ 
oelTod a Tisi( feom ^er the Great, and died kere» 
1710. As built by J. B. Mensart, it formt «ve larg% 
Gonsts- Bacine^ JBiMer was performed here fer 
tke Axat tUne. Tomb ol Madame de MeiataiiHi 
in the ekapel. 

HsM tke Um to Iteeaa end GfMTtte porta off^ ' 



f 66 ; 



BBADSHAW'S ILLUSTBATBD 



LSeCi S< 



^ 



Trappea (8| mties). 

[PoNT-CfiABTEAiN (6 mUds) has a seat by Man- 
sart, the property of Marquis d'Osmont. 

About 8 miles sontli-east of Trappes, near Van- 
mnrier, in a deep valley, are a fewA-agmentsof 

Post Royal des Champs, originally a Bemar- 
dine monastery, founded 1204, by Matthew de 
Marli, and called Portns Regius, Porr^al, &c., 
after Philippe Augruste had found shelter here 
when hunting; but having become, about 
1640-60, the head-quarters of the Janscnist 
leaders, Amauld d'AndiUy, Lancelot, Le Mais- 
tre (who translated the Bible), Pierre Nicole 
(who shared in Pascal's " Provincial Letters "), 
and other learned and pious recluses, including 
the yonng abbess, la Mire Angtlique, it was 
suppressed, 1708. The beautiful Duchesse de 
Longueville died here in seclusion. Amauld's 
house was at Les Granges, a farm still stand- 
ing on the hill above. See Mrs. Schimmel- 
Penninck's Select Memoirs of Port Royal."] 

La Verrl^re (Si miles) belonged to the Comte 
de Lavalette^ whose escape from prison, through 
his wife's means, is so well known. Coaches to Le 
Tremblay, the seat of the Marquis de Y^rac; Dam- 
ffierre, the fine seat of the Due de Lnynes; 
C^uvreuse (5 miles east-south-east), and the old 
OeutU of its seigneurs and dukes, on the Yvette; 
Monftfort and its old doi^on; and La Queue, on the 
Dreux road. Near Mesnil-St.-Denis Castle is the 
old Abbey of Notre Dame de la Roche, founded in 
the 11th century by the Sires de Levis, who fol- 
lowed Simon de Montfort to the crusades against 
the Albigenses. 

L08 EssartB-lfi-Bol (8 miles). 
L0 Perray (2 miles). 

BambOUlllet (5| miles), a sons-prdfecture of 
6,897 souls, in a valley, having a royal Ch&teau in 
the midst of a park of 8,030 acres (laid out by 
LenOtre), and a fine hunting Forest of 80,000 acres. 
The Chdteau (near St. Hubert^s Lake) is ahirge 
plain brick pile, flanked by spire turrets, and a great 
machlcolated tower of an earlier date; and includes 
a grand saloon with a marble floor (the room in 
which Francis I. died, in 1547), stables for 600 horses 
<(«• It belonged to the family of Agenues, and 



was bought of tlio Due de Penthi^rre by Lonls 
XVI. Here Marie Louise and her son met the 
Allied Sovereigns ; and Charles X. abdicated here, 
1880, In favotir of the Due de Bordeaux, and set off 
for Cherbourg and Poole. At the revolution of 
1848, the Chfttean was let for a cabaret. The Park 
contains:— Marie Antoinette's Jardin Anglais and 
her farm, with its laiterU or dairy, which have 
been properly restored; la bergerie modile^ where 
some of the earliest merinos in France were bred; 
Marie Antoinette's Chapel, a Hermitage, the ' 
Orotto of Rabelais, Ac. 
ffotels.^Dvi Lion d'Or ; St. Pierre. 
Between this and Chartres is the Chdteau of 
Eselimont, the mediaeval country seat of the 
Duke of Rochefoucauld-Bisaccia, who was here 
visited by the Prince of Wales, in 1874. 
[AUNEAU (4 miles south of Rambouillet), In Eure- 
et-Loire (see page 164, has a Tover left of the 
old castle of its seig^nenrs, one of whom was 
Henry de Joyeuse, marshal of France in the 
16th century.] 
Passing the large park of Voisins, and th^ 
Vicomte de Marainville's seat, we come to 

Epemon (8 miles), a pretty, well-watered 
spot on the Gucsle, in department Eure-et-Loire; 
having remains of the old Chdteau of its dukes, the 
first of whom was the favourite of Henry III., 
Nogaret de la Vallette, whose pride was so ridicu- 
lous that he was styled King of Epemon. Formerly 
it was called Spamonum^ and strongly fortified. 
Population, 2,896. 

Coach to Gallardon and its old tower, called 
VEpauU de Oallardon (the lower half being partly 
gone), and its equally ancient spire Churchy which 
combines the Norman, Gothic, and later styles. 

Pass Morvllle ch&teau and Hanches church, to 

Maintenon {b miles), in the fertile valley of the 
Eure (crossed by a viaduct on 82 arches) where 
the Yaise Joins it; which gave title of Marchioness 
de Maintenon to the widow of Scarron, whom: 
Louia XIY. privately married at YersaiUea. A 
square, and several round high-^peaked towers, 
most picturesquely grouped, are seen in the moated 
Chateau^ now belonging to the Due de Noaillca, . 
but in part as old as Philippe Augusta's time. 
They show Madave's portrait (by -Mignard) and ' 



Boate 1ft.] 



^ 



SAXD«BOOK TO IfSAKCl. 



57 



her bed-room; «]Botlio roomiof Lonis XI V^ and of 
Charles X., who spent a night here after hia abdi- 
cation. These aie carefully preaervcd by the owner. 
Tbo chapel has some stained grlass of the Ifith 
century. 

At the end of the noble Parit are MegalUMemoiw- 
ments called the Berceau, the Pierres de Gargan- 
tua, Ac. The remains of an Aqueduct^ began from 
Pont-Oonin, about 37| miles west-south-west, up the 
Eure, 1684-8, by Louis XXV., to supply YersaUIes 
with water, are also seen, supported by 47 or 48 
arches or piles, above 80 feet high, and to make 
which 80,000 troops and masons were sometimes 
employed. One arenue of the Park is named after 
Itadne, who is said to have composed in it. Culln 
d'Harlerille, the comic writer, was born here. 
Population, 2,057. Hotel.^Bt. Denis. 
Rail to Brenx (sec page 69) by Nogent-le-Boi. 
[No«XKT-LX-Roi (6 mUes), down the £ure, was so 
called after Philip de Valols (who died here, 
ISoOX and suffered much in the civil and reli- 
gious wars. The English, under Salisbury, 
carried it, sword in hand, in the time of Henry 
v. of England. Coach to Gallardon, see page 66. 
Near Le Pdage (5 miles west-soutli-west) is a 
Cromlech of one stone on two others.] 

Jony (5| miles), up the fertile valley of the Eure. 

▲t 4i miles beyond, with the cathedral fhli in 
Tiew, after crossing the river on a three-arch 
bridge, and the ravine of the Yanrouz, by a via* 
dnct on eighteen arches, is 

CHABTBE8, 
64 mllea from Paris, 178i miles from Bennes. 

Hotels. — Du Grand Monarque; da Due de 
Chartres; de France; Restaurant de TOuest. 
Buffet at station. 

French Protectant Service. 

The pAtis des Chartres^ at Lemoine^s, comer of 
Rae de Cygne, are of hereditary celebrity. 

^T Objects op Notics.— Cathedral— H6tel de 
Ville— Porte Onillaome— St. Andre's Church — 
Mosenm. 

Popolation, 28,108. The chief town of depart- 
ment Eare-et-Loire, scat of a tribunal, bishopric, 
Ac., in the fertile com plain of the Beauce, on a 
hill (crowned by Its noble cathedral), over the 
Eure, which runs round the old ramparts, now 
tamed into publlo walks. The other promenades' 



are near St. Piene's Gharch and PU^sdte Eparos, 
or des Barricades, Ac. Basse Ville, or Lower 
Town, is full of narrow streets and Gothic-lookinf 
honses of wood, with their gables to the front; and 
is joined by very steep ascents to Hants Ville, 
where the best buildings are found. Among these 
rises up the vast and imposing 

Cathedral o/Xotre Dame, erected 1026-1260, in the 
shape of a cross, 422 feet long, 208 broad through 
the transept, and 118 to the roof. It is calculated 
that 15,000 persons might easily stand within the 
walls, allowing a square yard to each. The ftront, 
160 feet broad, consists of a noble triple portal 
between two towers of equal breadth with it. One 
tower has a plain spire, 850 feet high ; the other, to 
the north, 376 feet high, is later built (1514), and 
in a more florid style, by Jean de Beaace. Three 
entrances, covered with carvings of prophets and 
apostles, are in the Portal, which is 40 feet by 30, 
and recessed 18 feet, having stataes in the Jambs, 
with a fine rose teindow above. Above this is an 
open gallery from tower to tower, then 17 kings in 
niches; above these the Virgin and Child, and a 
figure of Christ over all, on the apex of the roof. 
Two other ornamented porches and rose windows 
are in the north and south sides. The nave is 239 
feet long; but the interior is dark, on account of the 
richly stained Windotes^ of which there are 125. A 
beautifully carved Screen of the 15th or 16th century 
leads to the choir, which has 45 niches in it, and a 
multitude of sculptures, besides bas-reliefs of the 
Descent fh)m the Cross and the Presentation, by 
Bridan; another over the altar by the same artist, 
of the Assumption of the Virgin, was saved at 
the Revolution by having a cap of liberty put on 
her head. Bishop Fulbert's crypt and chapels of 
the older foundations are below. It is worth notice 
that there are 1,800 statues on the exterior, 2,000 
in the Interior, besides 500 figures in the windows. 
One statue, the Vierge du PUier, is a great object of 
worship. In the bishop^s garden is the etone coffin 
of St Cal^tric, bishop here in the 6th century. An 
Hotel Dieu of 18th century stands in the cloisters. 
St. Andres large old church, in Basse Ville, of 
the 12th century, is a store-house; St. Pierre% 
lately a barrack, but now restored for pnblie wor- 
ship, belonged to the Benedictines, and has some 
stained-windows. The Pri^ectore Stands in s ^ " 



r 

f 5$ 



BSABAQAW'a V^hV^SBLkfa^ 



t^'. ^t 



gOMdaa, AM tke B^tol de THie (n«ar tiha corn, 
maricet), whjjch was formerly HdteL MonUcoi> and 
OEi^ially the Uraiiline coavent, the Museum to 
kept, wHh sareral objecta of nataral history, 
C!iMrlemagne'& glass, Philippe la B.el's armour, and 
tlie sword o£ General Marcean. Hhe last was a 
native, and a pillar, ei-ected t« him in Place Har'- 
ceaI:^ or the. herb market (where the old palace of 
the dukes stood)., states that he was "Soldat k 
1$ a^8, G^nkral h. 23. 11 mourut h 27.*'— at the 
battle of Altenkirchea. 

The piiili>llc libri^'y contains 5Q«Q0p volmnes and 
9(jK) HSS. Th^re Is a Theatre, i^ormerly the old 
church of at. Foy ; also a bridge, by Vauban. The 
0^ GlQ^hi^c HdWl de YiUe, partly 13th century, 
rfi^oaW in Bua. des, Changes. In Rue Jean de 
B^aj^ (sp named after the cathedral architect). i9 
t^e new Cattle Market. ](n Kue des ^cuyers is i^ 
cjnioualy canned circular Hoijise, with 9.s^ral stair- 
co^Tjirindlin^ round the exterior from top to bottom. 
. pf its seren gjates, Fortf OiuUlaurWy with its old 
n^s^chicplal^ toweri^ remains; and there are «owe 
tsac^ oi^A^ufidwU mad^ by the Rppciasts, ijrho 
Dialed this place Atiiricum^ when it w^s the coital 
otthe Carwi^ti' The iilorthmen attacked it uj;idei 
thietr leMer, Haatings, and again under RoUo, the 
fodder qI Normandy. It gare title of duke to the, 
Orleans family. Nicole^ one of the ^ort Royal 
writ&c^ flt^id the advocate ^^tioJJi V^w bom here. 

Cowaeyancesi By raJil, to (Xi,'leau9, Chftteaudun, 
I^eox (oil the girdle line), ^a. ]^ran,ch line to 
i^OigeAHl^]^^^ an^ Al^LOav^ 1.7 mUes, ou the 
T^^sUne. 
(At jj|[o«jL»c«;z^3mi^s)Jj? • v^ry (>WC^ttr(*,h^^ 
no side chapeli b^t % Lombajrd porch an,d but- 
tresses in front; suiHposed of the lOith cejcitijiry. 
B.ONNEYAL (on the Paris and Tours direct line, 
jpage 164), a pretty place of 8|420 populatio^^ 
i^aving a church with ^ good spire, and a 
mill which was once a Benedictine college^ 
Covd)reava^ which belon^ged to Ney^ is near; 
and there are several menhirs, dolmens, &c., 
to the neighbourhood. Oua dolmen near 
^aodonin mill on the riv^, towards StQermain^ 
i^ 12 feet long; another of 10 feat is on the 
l^oQssay toad; besides penlvans, or ring stones. 
. Q^^1^<LUXI (9^ mUea farther), a station on the 
i ?wk Wf^ T^gi ^eqt Une, on tljie site oi 



Casullodunvm^ and a sotiB-pr^Cectare of 7,147 
population, in the vidley of the Loire (eee Route ' 
85). iTo^.—De la Place. \ 

Bsom this, vtft Toumoisin, it is 80 miles, to Or- 
leans.— Yenddme is 25 miles further; and ' 
86 miles beyond that Is Tours (see Route 85). — 
BJoia is 90 miles from Venddme.} 

[The dixect Itiffne cPEtat^ Paris to Bordeaux (397 ' 
miles), by Chartres, Saumnr, ^iort, and 
Ekiintes, was completed 1885 by theopenhig of 
Uie section between Oourtalain (87# miles from 
Chartres) and PontKle-Braye (page 196). The 
principal stations between Chartres and 
Saumur (pages 184 and 186) are 

CK>QrtalalSl, with a castle of 1443, restored in 
modem times. 

BeSB^-SUr-Braye, Chateau of Conrtanyat», 
15th and 16th centuries. 

PontHle^BrayO (see page 196). Junction for 
Blois by Venddme. 

La 0bartre anr-le-Lolr, witi^ a church of the 

12th century.' 
Oll&teaa-du-Loir (see page 197). 
ObHteau-la-Vallltoe ; here is the Fordt de la 
Valli^re, where was formerly a chftteau be- 
longing to the celebrated duchess of that name.] 
Across the wide plain of La Beaace to 
GevrviUe (llf miles), on a htU, in a fertile part 
of the Eure valley, once a marqnisate in the Sfolly ' 
family. Population^ 1,740. 
[ViLLEBON (Similes south) haathefineold feudal 
brick CastUy wit)l ^.)f9X^ moats, battlements, 
ifi whV^h /$«%• i^^ great minister «t Henry 
];>[.« died^ 16'^l. Xt preserves i^ i\^e?t dccora- 
iiopa an^d Corniturc., Yi^H the^i^ihr^^sei^ ^h^cl, , 
and picture gallery, all worth nQtiee.^ 
Courville is near Louis ^lY.'s, Aqueduct, -^l^lch 
bfifrina at tl^e nfxt statipn, BOAtgOUln (5 n^\ie^, 
on the Eure, and was conigpleted 0,8 far aa, ^ah^^- • 
npQ, following « zig^^ag course of upwards o(^ 30 
miles! Tl^e Chfiteaux of Yaux and la Riviere, 
belonging to the Marquis d'Aligre, are near thia 
station. Heife we entex the- district of La P^i^cJhe* 
lOL Loujpe \H miles) has a trade in graU;^ and 
cattle, and gave bi^h to the learned Vu^cent de la 
£o,ttp^ o( ^he l^th ceiitury . T^^ rail crosses a dried- 
u^ lake near the ata^ion, 09 an en^b^vukment ; ^nd . 



Bj»uV» i;^.] 



^L4J^>-3pq£ TQ IfBAVqp, 



&9 



a Tast cattiog through a mm of t^ex and femigin- 
oas. earth, 2 miles and 854 yardji long, and about 
60 feet deep. One-half is on a level, the other on 
an incline ;, and the whole length i^ crossed by six 
viaducts for roads passing over the line.. In the 
middle^ -where the hill lies deepest, is a tunnel of 
6,t00 feet, drained by a network of w;ell3, and anb- 
terranean aqueducts. 
From La Loupe to EvreilZ (^age 45), 53 miles, 

throngh f^jLonqheu, La Fert^VidAm^r 

YQrnQt^l (page iox t)am?m^ (page 45), and 

Avrilly. 

The next'station is 

BretOBQeUes. (6^ mil^Oi. i9 the district of la 
Perche and department of Orne,, near Butte, and 
the old castle of Launay, now a farm-house. The 
railway has a rival here in a Roman road, called 
the Rue Ferr^e (Stone or Metalled, Street). It 
follows the Corbionne, to 

. CSonC^amx-QuUllQ (.H miles)^ near which is 
a seat of Comte. da Baulny, and the old castle of 
MontlandoD. A. short i^ail (the Orne) was opened 
in 1878 to AlexifiOn (see page 70), via BdortSkSne. 
pllortague O-H mllej^ west-north-w(^t)i ^ ^^^ 
prefecture of 4,645 souls, once a strong place, 
and the capital of the Perche, Is on a hill over 
the Chippe, and was founded by Yves de 
Belldme, 968, who strengthened it by a d,oable 
moat and forts. In thewaraof the League H ^sa 
•plW&ged tweniU'two times. The streets are steep. 
At the old Gothic Church of St. Jean are 
richly carved cnls-de-lampe (pendants) in the 
Tai^lting of the nave The hospice was founded, 
1523, by Margaret de Lorraine. There are large 
market halls, a prison, public fountains, ^c. 
Manufactures of hemp, strong linens, sheep skins, 
Ac. The old church of the Capnclns is now a 
l^en factory. Its langues fyurreux or stuffed 
tongues, are noted. 
BQUU.—Dxk Grand Cerf ; de la Foste. Bail to 
Uamers (page 60) and Lalgle, 21 miles; and 
to Bemay, Lisieux, and Caen. 
Aboat 4 miles from it, near the ]|foad to Soligny^ is 
the old Romanesque church ol Ckampty with 
stained windows, 
9ouevT-L4-TBA?PB (7| mi^es norths hi a ftandy 
spot, hai remains of the Cistercian abbey 
ft? Xa 2V^|p|»«, fooB^ iQ the )Sth wn^?nCi hy 



RQtr•oa^., ^oBPtof Perche, fd^i^nned by the 
sev^e discipline of Abb^ <lo B^ac^ 1966, and 
suppressed at the Involution. Alter t^^lU^ff 
shelter in Swit^rland, the Trapptftts setUpd in 
England, and returned here 1815 ; but in 1824, 
on a dispute with tlie bishop, ^ey mfoxed to 
La Meilleraye.] 

NO0eaft-le-RotV(niO4 mitosX aaoaa-pudfeolure 
in depaitmant Eare-aVLohre, of 8s466popuiatioB, on 
tha Bolaaa (with a cascade at the entranca of the 
towu)^ ondes a rocky hiii, crowned by ramalns of 
a Gatth at the Ck>nnts of Perdie, and the famous 
Due de Aifiy, whose tomb, with that of his wHe, is 
at tha Hotel Diea, fonndad by Count Rotroa. The 
oU church of St. Hilaire, and the remains of St. 
Denia'a monastery, deserve notice. Excellent trout 
and crayfish are caught in the pretty valley of the 
Arcisse. ffotel. — Du Dauphin. 

PtoUites (about IH mil«8> or by rai^ pa^e 0^ hi 
a ^reit, has the Herse mineral wateca (1 mile>' 
sear it, diaoovered 1007, rising oat of- a fhnntain 
ni^u^ked by a Roman (?) inscription.] 
Le Tell (Oi miles)^ formerly Tilium^ was burnt 
by. the English in 1494, and again by SuUy, who 
took it for Henry lY., in 1594. It stands in depart- 
ment Orne, which we now leave for that of Sarthc, 
and pass through a pastoral country to 

Li^ Fe^t^ Bernard (3| miles), on the Huisne, 
and so called from a corruption ot forte (strong). It 
was one of the keys of France when the English 
held Normandy. It Is a miniature toY^n, haying a 
moat round its ancient battlemented walls; a castle- 
like gate, with two solid high-peaked towers, 
now used for prisons; Hdtel de VlUe; and a fine 
Gothic Church of the 16th century, looking like 
a cathedral. It is 190 feet by 70, and 80 high to 
the vault, or about 160 to the low spire over the 
west flront, which, as well as the sides, is supported 
by tall buttresses. The windows are finely stained. 
Notice also the HcMee in th« town, buUt 1535. The 
English, under Salisbury, took La Fertd, 1424, and 
it was given up to the Prince of Conti, 1590. Popu- 
lation, 5,239. Linen is n:^de. 

(About 13 miles west is Boan^^ll^e, a towa. of 
4,294 population^ in a fertile spot, having the 
old CiutUai Its seigneurs, swrmoonted by 8j|x 
iow%M^ %nd QTO^ipea^d iiviid^ with voodi 



60 



BRX^BHAW'S tLLUSTBATttO 



{Set. 2. 



cAryingt and poriraitB. Both this, and Hamera 
are reached by rail from Connerrd (as below), 
or from La Hatte-Covlomblers (page 70). 
Maxnars (30 mlles north-west), a sons-prefecture 
of 6,016 population, in department Sarthe, on 
the Dire; baring a {^tireA founded 1145, and 
restored 1831; with an old convent, now the 
mairie. Borne ditches, called after Robert le 
Diable, are traced ; and at 4 miles off is a Roman 
camp. To the north are the mioed walls and 
arches of Persaigtus Abbey^ founded 1145, hj 
the counts of Alen^on, who were burled here 
till 1S77. Abbtf Rancd, who reformed the 
Trappists, was a monk in this abbey. Branch 
rail to Belldxne or Belesme (page 59) and 
Mortagne (page 60), vid Orlgny-le-Bouz.] 
Sceaux iH miles), on the Huisne. The next 
station, 

C0]IXI0It6 (5| miles), is near DolUmt so called 
after a dolmen or cromlech, of one stone, 20 feet 
long, resting on eight others. Before reaching 
this, there is on the right, at Groix-de-Fer, an- 
other dolmen called the Plerre-de-yonvray, near 
which coins called pixtiiot hare been found. Here 
a line intersects, passlog nortli, to Bonn^table and 
Mamers (as abore), 37 miles; and south to St. 
Calais (page 196), 19 miles. 

Pont da GaXineB (6f miles) was originally Pons 
Hiogente^ after a Roman bridge, since replaced by 
a later one, on the Huisne, near the new railway 
yladact. 

St. Man la Bmyire (4i miles) is in a wide 
tract of what was once a mere heath (bruybre). 

YVT^-l'Sy^ua (31 miles) was a conntry-seat 
of tlie bishops of Mans, in a Ixurge park. 

We follow the Huisne to PotUlieue (so called from 
an old bridge) in the suburbs of Mans, of which the 
large and important station, with its workshops 
and magazines, is 4^ miles from the last station. 

LE MAN8, 

130| miles from Paris, lOlf firom Rennes. Here the 
branch line to Alen^on and Mdzidon (on the Cher- 
bourg line) turns off (see Route 16). 

HoncLS.— De la Boule d*Or; dc France; dn 
Maine; Grand Hotel. Buffet, 

■9* Objvcts op Kotick.— Cathedral— Churches 
of Motre D«ne La Coataro and Notre Dame dn Prtf . 



Population, 67,413. This chief town of dupartmetit 
Sarthe, seat of a bishopric, Ac, on a hill-side, by 
the Sarthe, near the junction of the Huisne, or 
Hulne, was the Roman Suidumtm^ or capital of the 
Cenaomanni (whence the modem name), afterwai4a 
of the province of Jfom«, which was held by 
Geoffrey Plantagenet, whose son, Henry II., was 
bom here, 1138. It was, of course, often attacked 
in the early times of French history, until the 
English were finally dispossessed in 1447. In 179S, 
it was occupied by Larochejacquelin and 60,000 
Venddans, wbowere driven out with great slaughter 
by Marcean. The Chonans also took it at their 
rising, in 1799. On the 11th and 13th of January, 
1871, in the height of winter, the strong position 
taken up here by General Chanay and his army of 
the West was carried by the Germans under Prince 
Frederick Charles, being the last great action of 
the war. 

Three bridges cross the Sarthe. Pont Tssoir Joina 
Gonrdane quarter to that of the Prd ; Pont Perrln 
leads to St. Jean; and Pont Napoleon is opposite 
Place de la HalUj the lai^est square in the city, ' 
where the hotels and caf^s are found. Another 
square, called Place des Jacobins, and planted with 
poplars, was the site of a convent, and of a Roman 
amphitheatre ; Promenade du Greffier is a walk by 
the Sarthe, near the quays, with prospects of the fer- 
tile country beyond, and the station at one end of it. 
The best part of the town is up the hill, that on the 
river being a collection of narrow, steep, and dirty 
streets. The houses are of stone and slate; many 
old buildings are In Grande Rue, Place du Chitean, 
Rue des Chanoines, Ac. An ancient seat of the 
KnighU Templar* yet remains; and there are four or 
five modern fountains, one of which was opened 
1854, on a part of the ancient town walls. 

at. JuUen's Caihedrai^ 446 feet long, is on the 
site of a Roman temple, of which traces are said to 
be visible in the oldest part, the Norman nave, 
which is of the 10th and 11th centuries, and has a 
good south door. The fine lofty choir and the tran- 
septs are of the 13th to the 15th centuries, the former 
being 106 feet high. A square tower, ornamented 
with niches, &c., stands over one transept, 317 feet 
from the ground, or 831 from the river. The fine 
ro9e and other windows are beautifully stained. In 
one of the twdre side chapels are monumentfe of 



HAND-BOOK TO VBANCE. 



.Bontelft.] 

Bichard GoBiir de Lion*s qn«en, Berengaria^ -whose 
tomb was brought here 1821, from the abbey of 
J^NNi (now a linen factory, 2} miles off), which she 
fODAded; and of Charles IV. of Anjoa and L. Du 
Bellay. A canred house in Grande Rue is called 
Queen Berengaria's. Near the cathedral is the 
Orabatoire^ a house with spires and a peaked roof, 
«nce used by the canons. The first bishop of Mans 
was St. Jnlien, in the 3rd century. At No. 1, in 
Bne St. Michel, close by, lived Scarron^ the comic 
writer, who held a canonry here, till he married. 
. Bis widow, the celebrated MadcuM <U Maintenon, 
became mistress and wife of Louis XIV. 

IMre Dame de la Couture is partly Norman and 
partly Gothic, of the 10th and 18th centuries; It has 
a good west portal (with earrings of the Judg« 
. ment) and an ancient crypt. The Abbey buildings 
near it are used as the Prifeeture, which contains a 
Library of 50.000 Tolumes, with 700 MSS., also a 
gallery of paintings (Including a portrait on copper 
of Qeoffrev Plantagenef)^ and a Museum of natural 
bistory, geology, mineralogy, botany, coins, Ac. 

Notre Dame du Prd Church., of the 11th century, 
is cruciform, and has a carved doorway; it is one 
of the curious buildings here. At St. Benoit's is a 
good painthig of a Dead Christ. St. Vincent's 
abbey Church, with an excellent front, is used for 
the priests' seminary. Near it is the bishop's new 
Palace^ in the Bcnaissance style, by Delarue. St. 
. Pierre's old church is altered into a school, while 
that of the Visitation ia employed for the Palais 
de Justice and prison. Museum of Archsdology, 
on the ground floor of the Theatre, always open 
to strangers. An old seat of the counts of Maine 
ia now the Hdtel de Ville ; they still show remains 
of an earlier building, which it replaced. The cir- 
cular Com Hall, on the Grande Place, was rebuilt 
1822, on the site of a wooden one, which was as 
old as 1668. There are a good Theatre, built 1842, 
by Delarue, and public baths. 

Ledru RolUn, author of the Decadence de V Angle- 
terre, was bom here. Statues of General Chanzy 
and Pierre Belon, a celebrated naturalist, also a 
native. 

Rail to St. Nazalre (pages 191 and 198) via Sabl€ 

and ChAteaubriant. Also to La Chastre, 30 miles. 

[The branch rail to Angers, 60 miles long, 

down the Sartbe, passes La SUM (12 miles)} 



..^ 



with a branch to La Fl^ehe. Avolie (11 
miles). Babl^ (7 miles), an old town on the 
Sarthe, with a marble bridge, uniting the two 
parts of it. Above stands a Chdieau^ buiit by 
Hansart, for the brother of Colbert, the states- 
man. The town belonged to Geoffrey of An- 
jou, and was taken by Henry IV. in person. 
Gloves and linens are made, and marble is 
worked. Population, 6,047. Hotel. — De Notre 
Dame. At Sabld a line from La Fl^che (page 
197) comes in ; and proceeds to ChAteau-Gon- 
tier (page 198), where a connection ia made 
with Laval; thence on to Chemaztf (branch 
to Craon), S^rtf, ChAteaubriant (page 198), 
Redon, and Nantes. In 1884 Sabl^ was con- 
nected with Silld-le-Guillaume (below) by a 
line of 32i miles. From Sabl^ to 

Morannes (9 miles) and Tiered (9 miles), 

whence it is 12 miles to AngeiB. (See Route 

86.)] 

Leaving Le Mans, the rail crosses the Sarthe. 

Then past the old Chdteau of Livardin, which 

William Rufus occupied, 1098, before the siege of 

Mans. It belonged to the Beaumanoir family. 

Pomfront-en-Gliainpagne (i2i mOes), near 

the forest of MUeeu^ where an ancient way is 
traced. It was attacked by the Chouans in 1796, 
but unsuccessfully. 

Conlle (2i miles). Here traces of the earliest 
inhabitants of France have been found. Passing 
a cutting, 45 feet deep, and then a bank as high, 
we come to another cutting, or tranchSe., 5,900 feet 
long. Near this is Tennie Church and Castle., which 
Sir John Fastolf, the English governor of Alen9on, 
took in Henry VI.'s reig^. At Rouez are some old 
abbey and castle ruins. 

Sill^-le-GniUanilie (7i miles), on the slope of 

a hill, where seven roads meet, in a forest, is a 

very ancient place; and has several remains of 

towers and walls, among which is the massive 

Donjon^ 125 feet high, to the spire top, and 10 feet 

thick. The ancient Church, begun in the 13th 

century, is close to it. A fine view from here. Rail 

to La Hutte-Coulombiers (page 70). 

[St. Jban-sub-Ebvs, 12^ miles south-south-west. 

on the Erve (in department Mayenne), is so 

called after the ancient ArvU, whose capital 

was about 6 miles south) down the rivef) near 



42 likiamAiir^ 

^ith ^tt6(^ ot SMil^e^ or H^fft Oe Margot, 
yfhkitt are in thfelimestoH^ clHFs on fts 1>aiiks. ' 
One is ttl30iit 61 f«et in diameter.^ 

ROUess^-VaSB^ (3| miles) was the feudal poe- 
scssion of the very ancient family of Vass^ the last 
of whom emigrated In 1791. Here was the MS. of 
•le Sieur Joinviilo's Life o/ St. Louia^ with a collec- 
tion of armour, which was sold off by ih« sans- 
culottes, at 2^isoas a piece, payablein assigtUits, 

V-OStl^ (6 'nXknO^ in ^e departtneBt of May- 
<onae. Alotfg the rout^ a^ 'tlie C6€^on liiUs, a 
mn^ of felspar ahd petrcwllex. dross th^ Erre, 
fcncl tliroligh Itlie Ke^I^reHs cuftlttg, to 

^ISW6n '(^ miles), &i a "basin of limestone hills, 
lihichlime isWrntliere. It is the ancient Ebron- 
tam, where %t.'Hadouin founded anabbey, of which 
'the <^HUr(^y on« of tlie bi$9il%i iftkyenho, rcMins; 
: AtiiSbag fik tHe inikA part 4rdm the Iffth ^ist^ntury, 
though St. Crdpin's chapel (where several pnihtings 
>h'aVe b«<^ 'ffibc^yV^redD Ib a ctortary eslrller. Its 
'&{Ape dectlnei ^r^Hn i;1ie «prigift. At thikt W ner 
iis'm <m8($fa!c«ilated towfer^ btrOt Yord^nce 'in -early 
times, A beattttfttl bas-^^fcif of -the Sepulchre is 
^oed <nrer ^e liKar. l^on has aAso -old hmtres of 
%he IQth JiitaAva^; and a «B€«edienne 'abbey, a 
^mddern^tae, occf^tled byHie^BMers-^f Gha^y. 

Coaches to Jubelin, M^zangers, and ISt.'Suzanne. 

'{Ste. SiJZANNE (4i miles south-east), up the Erve, 
stands on a rocky height, in the Go^vron hills, 
over the gor^e of the river. It has a modern 
Gli&teau incorporating the old donjon, &c.; 
and the ancient ramparts are rather remark- 
a*blo, as being vitrified, like someof the Pictish 
forts in Scotland. Six or seven menhirs or 
standing stones are found near this place. 

'to the north-west of :6vi-on, past the pretty 
chateau oif Mezangers, is 

■jUBBLnr, or JitbfainB, on lihe-stte of the 'iqnHre 
eastellam -of Nikiodiimum, 'a -Roukkft Hrttftidn. 
Tim walte-are made of blOJi^ 0f gmttite, ^t^ifch 
aboiinds horeabouts. 

Mayenne (1H miles), a station 25 miles trdm 
Laval, by the branch line from La Chapelle 
(below) and a sous-prdfecture in the same 
departniefft, fttribng the bills, on the river 
Cayenne, is Ii+c^lWly-btitlt. Wiid i'ehiarkable 



fL'LVBtSiX'Al> f]t$l6. ^. 

only f<tf th^ old enHmit Of ^tB Wl^¥«fs, iioW a 
linen fftdtory. Linen goods, of vaftous kiifUs, 
are made and bleached, ahd Iron is forged HSftur 
It. Population, 10,428. ffotels.—D'e la iBd'fte 
Etoile'; de PEmrope; duPavilldn. 

Ahbri^res (6 miles north), an ancient place on 
the Mayenne, fortified by William the Cop- 
queror, to defend the Normandy frontier. It 
has an old bridge, a pretty spire church, and a 
halle on the castle site. Population, 2,480.] , 

Here is a qiianiy bf gray ma^l^. >AitB¥€^4B'a 
^Mtstle wMch beloi^ed %o ShUext «dfc 9v0e, a 
-arnsader. At 

iH<Artfftl!ril Xf^ %iile^, or Mms ^imk, 'is 
another feudal fn!n, whldh, jfte all fn^his-qtRnHfer, 
fij^ared in the wan witli -fhe 'Bri^h^ also Yhe 
Ohifpel of 'the Three Marys, of the I4ljh 'CcJrilury. 
¥romSa<a£fil^B(»'i^lMitcia^ SmiMs'btiyoad, 
-iBi'brflhch tfrie'turms off to Cayenne. 

L6tlverlli& (8f miles) is noted for marble quar- 
fleis. Trom this it is three miles to Laval, which 
Is reached by an embankment 86 feet high, t^& a 
■vlri^dttct over 'fhki Cayenne. 

liAVMr. 

186^fles'ftrbm Pa^ris, 46im!IeBfiromlteiJiMn. * 

Hotels. — ^]3e Paris; de France; del*6uest. 

Population, S0,874. A manufacturing tqwh, k^d 
capital of department Mayenne (formerly 'the pro- 
vince of Lower Maine), on a cultivated slope in'fhe 
valley of 'the ISfayenne. Ilhe bishopric was re- 
established here in 1855. "Much lined and cotton 
cloth and thread is made, ^he plain around "was 
formerly called the Forest of Concise; and the 
town grew out of a castle built by Guy de VaTle in 
1002. It was taken and retaken in the wauns 
between the English and French, 1466. 

An old tower (near the bridge), with its peaked 
top, is all ihat remains of the castle, which came to 
the Dukes of Laval and Trdmoullle, and is used as 
a prison. The court-yard, and the restored seign- 
curial chapel deserve a visit. In front of this, the 
prince of Talmont,the last of its long line of counts, 
was executed, 1794, after the final defeat of the 
"Chouans, at TfiTans. They had gained a victory Over 
the "EopUbircans here fhe year before. 



'^to«l» 15.] 



wiaay-WMm. i» VEAarcn. 



"1 



163 



^ is A "piotiiresqM old ptttce, faaVteff VMn^ 
carious Gothic timbered Hihtie* and narrow streets, 
some rather steep. The Chunp de Eoira, anA 
especially a house called Bel Air^ command the 
best prospects. Two bridges (the older one 16th 
centnxy) cross the river, and the view takes in the 
pretty spire of Aveeni^es Churchy in the subarb, 
which was founded by Guy II. in the 12th century, 
and finished in the 16th century. It contains k 
small figure of the Virgin, much Tcnerated -by 
pilgrims. Parts of the-ancient town walls are left, 
with the old towsrs, at Forte BeueberesUt of the 
16th century. 

Amongst the buildings to bo noticed, are the 
'Auri^A 6t La ^nlt^ and St. Vfe^rond— the 
Vorrner t)clngthe Ca^edrdl.m the^Gothlc stylo o^ 
'tW 12th century. The Prtffe<5ture,Tn a large garddn ; 
thfe Palais de Justice G^w court), formerly the p^tit ^ 
'dhdteau^ tn the Renaissance style; the college; a" 
^argel.taeli Hall (Inflle aux toiles) ; a public Library 
•of 25, OOd volumes ; two liospiccs ; and part df the 
"Cordeliers' olcl couVerft. The old chftteau, i'Hh 
and 12th centuries, is a prison. 

'An^throse l^etf^, tU e surgeon, of whom'^^here is a 
bronze Mktae by Dtevid d' Angefs, netir the Hotel 
^ Ville, Wais a natiSre. Lesueur, the painter, was 
Mother. fTradelngftiin, wine, eau-de-vie, llliehs, 
Vood, Iron, and tnarble. Tick matferdssds tire 
mfade; there is a large ccffton mill. Rail to May- 
cnne (pdge 82), Do*froiA fpage 72), and Piers 
(page 69) ; and ChEfeau-€foritier (page 108), Segrd, 
'ci'antcs, Sabltf, An'g«ft%. 

totrtct Ihie to tMteatfbl^fa^ (iJage JW) yia 

St. Berthevlll (quarries of red marble), (fUbtfn. 

tMie BI7), fttaaini (pl«e 1»7) and LDttdan. 

Tin two last aib on the line from Ghfttoaubriant 

(From Laval, on the rail to Bennes, we ^ass th^ '[ 
fine viaduct, alreacfy mentioned. It is of solid ^ 
granite, on nine arches, of Si9 feet span, and is 591 ' 
•fe«t loBg, and 92 feet high. The view is of course 
a c<Hnm«udlog one. 

te^MiMt<Oim!tcs). Orofss the Vtcoiu to 

FOTt-Brillet m miles), a pretty spot, oh n • 
hike which the line traverses, it has importaufti 
. iron forges. The sptre of 01iv<ft abbey C^rch is in • 
, ▼iewtlwiUby Qqy V.,ofLaval. 

8t. PlerTe-la*Coi|ir«(4i oaicf) is in the neigh- 



bokriwod of Hot 'M8L tMA iniMs. At Ctm^Wle is 
an old chAteau, burnt by the BngUiAi 1429. 
Further on is Erbree, in the department of Ille-et- 
Yilaine, and the province of Brittany. 

Vitr6 (9 miles), a sous^prtffectnre in department 
Ille-et-Vilaine, on the Vilaine, -having regular 
Gothic ramparts^ in the feudal style, strengthened 
by machicolated towers, between two of which is 
a house once inhabited by Madame de SMgni, The 
houses are ancient-looking, especially in ^ues 
Potorie and Notre Dame, and the streets narrow 
and irregular. The best view of this picturesi^ue 
place is A:om Tertre Noir, near the walls. At the 
Mairie^ once a Benedictine convent, there is a good 
prospect of the country, with a public Library of 
4,000 volumes, and a plate (taken out of the walls) 
recording the siege sustained by the town against 
the League, 1569. The College is an old UrsuUne 
convent ; and there is a school at the Madeleine 
chapel (founded 1209). Good walks in the Pare, 
on the south side of Vitrd, and at Barati^re, a 
country seat. The old Castle of the Dues de Tr€- 
mottille, 14th and 15th centuries, at the west end 
of the town, is used as a prison. 

An unique stone pu^t is seen outside the Gothic 
Cfmreh of Notre Dame. This handsome buihUng, 
usually called the " cathedral," was attached to a 
.priory, founded 1146. It is 200 feet long, and 
has a new tall granite spire erected in 1858, with 
some beautinil carved wojrk. In the Yhrgin chisel 
are several curious enamel painttaigs ; and ttiat of 
P. Landals has his monument 

&%, Nicolas's Hospital, in faubonrg Raohat, is of 
the 18th century. 

Oeat-^tin dresses are made here for the conirtry 
people to wear in winter time; besides a few linens, 
ice. Oantharides flies are also prepared. Savary, 
the antiquary, was a native. Population, 10,607. 

Hot^.'^De S^vign^; de France; des Yoyageurs. 

Rail to Foug^res (28 miles, see Route 18), 
Pontorson and St. Brice-en-Coglfes (page 73). 

[About 4 miles south is Chdteau des Rochers^ 
the old seat of Madame de S^vign^, with an 
octagonal chapel, now open to strangers. 

Further on, at Argentrd, is the old Ch&teau de 
Pleasis ; at Chatillon-cn-Yendelals is a fine old 
Casilt^ on a height, over a lake ; and at Clham> 
pe'au, an excellent collegiate Church.l 



r 



6$ 



Bif ADSHAW'r lht.Vgt1iX1ltb 



[s^c.9: 



La BrMlittl^re, Janctlon of the line from 
riocrmcl, and nlso of that to Dinan and Dinftrd. 

Caulnes (9 miles). Then 
Broons ^5 miles), in department Cotes-du-Xord, 
ami Bji«9€-Bretagne, a place of 2,753 population; 
a little beyond which is the site of Lamotte 
Broons, the birth-place of the famous so'dler 
DuguescUn, who died here in 13S0, and to wliom 
a pillar is set up. The country people here begin 
to speak the Bos-Breton, or Brozounccq language, 
a Celtic diaWet 

Pl^n^e-Jugon (6i miles), near the Arguenon. 
Then 

Lamloalle (lO miles), on the Goucssant, was the 
old seit of the counts and dukes of Penthibvrc (a 
title now In the Orleans family), wliose castle, 
built near a monastery founded, 1084, by Geof- 
frey I., was pulled down by lUchelicu, 1626, 
except Notre Dame Chapel and its niinarct-like 
Cower. St. Martin'sChurch, 11th and 16th centuries. 
Population, 4,524. Trade in honey, wax, com, 
feather, cattle, horees. Hotel— De France. 
[About 18J miles north-east, in the Channel, is 
Cape Frehel and its revolving Light, 246 feet 
high, and shinhig to a distance of 16 or 18 
miles. 
At 91 miles south-west is Moncontour^ then 

Plougenast (9 miles), then 
ZfOUd^aO 7 miles), a sous-prefecture of 5,913 
population (on the branch line from Pontivy 
to St. Bricuc), in a forest, of no consequence 
except for its toilet de Breitgne^ or linens. 
The ciiurch has a tall spire, and there are a 
linen hall, college, chamber of commerce, Ac. 
Hoteh — De France. 
. Pontlvy is 13 J miles farther (see Route 42).] 

Tfflnlac (6 miles), the next station to Lamballe, 
it followed, 7 miles further, by 

ST. BRIEUC, or ST. BRIEUX. 

ItoTKLs. — De la Croix Blanche (White Cross); 
do France; de la Croix Rou^e (Red Cross). 
. Population, 19,918. A port, on a bay in the 
Channel, chief town of department COtos-du- 
Kord (In Lower Brittany), and seat of a diooeae, 
among hills (which shut out the sea^vlow), on the 
Cloiv»^ tUf oi9aU of whlcb forme the iiwrboar at 



Le Ltgui, for Tossels of 400 tonl Two bridget ertfss 
the rircr, one being: of granite. A promenade, 
made 1788, is caiTicd round the site of the old 
walls, and has a fine prospect at the Terrace. Iir 
Place Duguesclin is a statue of that warrior, who' 
is a great favourite in his native province. 

The Cathedral^ with its low plain towers, is of 
the 13th century, on the site of a Druid temple, 
which St. Brieuc, an Irishman, turned into a 
monastery in the 5th century. It has an altar by- 
Corlay, and two pieces of Gobelins tapestry. St. 
Michers Church is an ugly structure, with a 
stone Calvary. 

The Hotel de Yille is an old building. The 
public library contains dO.COO volumei. There are 
an archaeological museum (open Sunday), some 
fine old houses, besides a race-course, or hippo- 
drome, near the old Tovcr of Cesson^ 2 miles off 
(which has a double ditch), and the large public 
gardens, which belonged to the Cordeliers' convent. 

Rail to Ch&teaulin via Carhaix; to Paimpol, 
and to Yanncs. 

A branch rail was opened (1872) from here to 

Loud^ac, Pontivy, Auray, and Vannes 

(above), vid Quintin and Uzel. 

From St. Bricuc, on the rail to Bre<(t, the line 
passes over a viaduct, 190 feet high, 740 feet long, to 

Cbft.telaildren (lO miles), which commands a 
fine vie«v from the ruins of its old castle. 

Qulngamp (7 miles), on the plain of the Trieux, is 
asous-prdfecture (9,196 population), in department 
Cdtes-du-Xord, and in the old duchy of Penthifevrc; 
with some remains of its old walls, and of the I5ih 
cf.ntury chfttcau of the Dukes of Pcnthifevre. Its 
church is Urge, and ornamented with a tall spire 
at one end, and a sort of domed tower at the other. 
Linen goods, from hence called ginghams, are 
mfide. At the July ''pardon," about 10,000 pil- 
{rrlms meet for devotion and business. Hotels! — De 
Fran 'c ; de TOuest. Rail to Pontrleux and Paim- 
pol, and to Lannion, vid Plouaret. 
[PoxTiJiEux (10 miles north) is down the river, 
here cro'scd by a bridjjo to which the tide 
comes. Pierre de Rohan sacked the old castle 
of Chftteaulin, near here, in the 15th century.' 
Paimpol (8 miles north-west of this) is a bustling 
Utile port, In ih« Cfaa&i\«l| with A ahlp-yard, A«f 



JRoatel5.] 



AAKD-BOOK ^O' FBANOSr-T 



m 



^ 



Population, 3,865.' To the Bouth are the old 
round church of Lanlcff and Beauport Abbey. 
TniouiKB (7| milesnorth-north-wcst of Pontrieux), 
a pleasant place, where the Gaindy and Jaudy 
join, not fur from the sea, grew out of a monas- 
tery founded by St. Tugdual in the 6th 
century, and made tiie seat of a bishop. The 
Spaniards took it in their descent, ld92. Some 
of the streets are good; there is a hospital, 
dating from the 14th century. Its old 
cathedral Chutxh is a curious structure, with 
an open tower, and many quaint earrings 
on it. Formerly it held the tombs of a duke 
of Brittany, and of St. Yves (or St. Ives), the 
patron saint, who was bom near this. Renan, 
the celebrated Semitic scholar, was a native.] 

BeUe-l8le-B6gard (ll miles), or Belle-Isle- 
en-Torrc, on the Guer. 

At Plooaret, a short branch line turns off to 
' ItAXVioVy an old-fashioned 80us-pr€fc«ture 
(with 6,002 population), in department Cdtes- 
du-Nord, and a smuggling port, with a quay, 
about4| miles from the sea. The spire Church is 
of the 12th century; and there is a mineral 
spring, which is useful in cases of stone. 
Tt'aces of the site of the Roman Lexonium 
(from which Lannion is derived) have been 
found on the river; and on the Ploemeur 
' road is a sculptured menhir, 24 feet by 10 feet. 
The mined Chateau of Tonquddec, 14th cen- 
tury, b 7 miles distant. J2ote/.— De I'Europe.] 

PKran^Tln (12i miles). 

Morlalz(14| miles), a port and sous-prefecture, 
tn department Finist^re, where the Jarleau and 
Kerlent fall Into the Channel, under some pictur- 
esque hills. Its tjuays offer good profipecls. Popula- 
tion, 1 6, 800. Its picturesque streets and buildings 
are the delight of artists, who come here. Some 
'curious old /untses are seen at Lances, and on 
the Trigieux side of the creek, which runs up 
to the principal Place ; others in Rues des Nobles 
and dn Pat^. Of the four churches, St. MathUu'i 
Is in the pointed style ; St. Martin's stands on a 
bill. The Hairie and markets are in the Place, on 
the site of a taOtel de ville, pulled down 1836. It 
baa a large factory of tobacco (only moderate), 
•iMTlgfktton tobool, Ac, and a fine promenade near 
^« Foat(^a« dM Anglais. NotU« tlM old ObAtean . 



dn Tanreau, and the Tiaduct OTcr.the rirer, 210 
feet high. Qeneral Mcreau was a native. Tbe 
English held it in tlie 14th century. . { 

Hotels. — Dc Provence ; de TEurope. 

Conveyances: To Guimiliau, to Lannion, rid 
Lanmcur and Plcstin; and by steam to Havre, 
in '10 hours. Megalithic remains are to be seen 
at Brenmlis and Mencguen, and other spots in the 
neighbourhood; and at Tonquddec (to the east) 
are fine remains of a Castle of the 14th century. ' 

In 1892 a rail was opened to CUTliaiZ (pAge 
204), through Huelgoet. ' 

Rail, 17i miles, to St. Pol and Roscoff. j 

[St. PoL-DE-LiioK, on the coast, is a decayed 
cathedral town, with several old Gothic housef. 
Population, 7,4u0. The beautiful granite spires 
of Kreisker Churchy 255 feet high, was built in 
the 14th century by an English architect; and 
the Cathedral, with its two good towers, 
rose window, carved porch, stalls, Ae., and 
tombs of Conan M^ridec, or Mcriadoc (brother 
to St. Patrick and King of South Wales), 
Bishop Yisdelou, and of the patron saint, 
deserve notice. Hotel. — Ue France. 

Roscoff, a small town of 4, GOO hihabitants, 
facing He de Bas Lighthouse, wlicre Mary 
Stuart landed, 1558, on her way to marry the 
Dauphin. It is a Zoological Station, and a 
great place for lobsters, crayfish, and sardines, 
for the London and Paris markets. At the 
Capuchin Convent is a fig tree, 200 years old, 
propped up by thirty stone posts.] 

Pleiber-GlirlBt (6 miles), Saint Th^gonno^, 

3 miles (a remarkable crypt and Calvary), Lan- 
dlvlziaa (7| miles), has a good ChurcM^ and te 
population of 3, 700. 

Landexneau (17 miles), where the line from 
Vannes and L'Orient Joins. It stands on tbo 
Elorn, wluch falls into the east end of Brest har- 
bour ; and is a place of 8,497 population, to which 
vessels of 800 tons come; baring large barracks fdr 
sailors, long quays, a church of the 1 6th century, and 
the Plaudiry fountain, in the shape of an obeUtk. 

On the road to Ijcsneven (to the west), in a wiM 
heath, are the beautiful rums of Notre Dame du 
Fol-Go«t, a church built, 1428, by the dukes df 
Brittany; it abounds with delicate carvinir aif4 
traceqr. » , » -, 



r 



SBA»iKiVfl tujmnMom 



lim.§. 



XMlmail (7 Ail«t>; H noitoB distant is FloU' 
p$ttel-Jknultu^ th« CalT»ire of vhich li perhaps 
the finest in Brittmy, 8M statueiteft. 

BEBST. 

POPUiuXTioN, 75,854, besides soldiers and sailors. 

HoTKLS,. — Grand Hotel ; Hotel des Voya^curs; 
d^ Grand Monarque; deProveQce;i 

Besident BnglUh Coruifl. 

French Protestant Sfrvifie. 

4. naval Dock Yard and Arsenal, seat of a mari- 
timft pr^ectnre, first class military station, &c., 
on the fine harboor, or JIaofo of Brest. It had a 
Castle of the dukes of Brittany, which Robert 
'Kaolle« held fbr Richard II. of Englaad, against 
Bognesclitt, in 1878, and whieh was given tip to 
the French, 189$. Louis the XIV. made it a 
iiaT»l station, 1831, by the advice of RicfaelieTi and 
P«q!iesae ; and buBt the arsenal, after Vanban's 
f laa, vouiid (he old tower of the Castle, which is 
"jjif feet high, standiBg ^t the month of a creek 
9t the VeaMd (on the north side of the harbour), 
i^vmg which the town and dockyard lie. 

V^e town is divided into Savtt and Basse, or 
upper and lower, and is so steep as to be joined by 
ftepiin several places; some of the newest houses 
are to the suburb of Rtcouvraifce on the west. The 
Iron bridges connecting the various suburbs with 
each other are good pieces of engineeiing. The 
fine iron swing bridge Pont Toumant, opened 
1981, which crosses the creek at the bottom of Rue 
de 81am, is 880 feet long, and 65 feet above high 
water. The Cows cTAjo is planted with trees, and 
|#f a goo4 vSnDT of the harbonr ; and there are 
IgtQf^pi^iiM at Champ d» BatjiBft, a^d Hace dela 

A narrow passage, called Le Qotdet (the gaUet), 
«h^t one miie wide, leads ia from the Bj^ of 
9i8«^y, <m the west, to the nobte laud-locked Rode 
fgf fiwboitrt whi«h is about nine leagues in oircoit, 
.^pgroid hold 6(M8 a^ips of the line, and, towards 
^1^ e«Ht, dividet off into two channels, to Lander- 
IMM^U m4 Chftteasdin. It is strongly defended by 
JMi^terjieA oxi every point, mounting 1,000 pieces 
j^ cannon. Outaide the Goidet, About 10 miles 
fjn, U Ques^^ or Ushant Ught, at the mouth of 
^9 Channel, where Keppel Sought aa aettoa vitji 
DieFreach. 

The Ikekifard includes building docks- j(6«i la 



the iolid roek); lai^ dry doeitf ; steMB Codadry« 
^ith immense steam hammers; fop« works (cord*- 
erles) of great length, sheare (maohines * m^lel^, 
saH lofts (voileries), eaniion foundry, ge«eral mag* 
axine, forges, Ac; besides the i9«#/or»'5arrw*< for 
4,000, victualling ofllce (pare anx vivres),mMettm of 
models (salle des modMes), the Clemumt-Tonnerre 
Hospital (a large building with 1,810 beds in 
It), a marine library of 15,000 volumes, and an 
observatory. Permission to inspect is not often 
panted. Apply to the English Consul. 

The Bagnfif an hnmepse bi:dldlng, sjboot 850 feet 
l09g, oa a bill, wh«re there was room Cor 8,000 
Qonvicts, formerly employed iji making the forti- 
fications, is now usQd for stores. 

in the town are, aKaval School; theHOtelde 
YUle; the church of St. Louis; aalle d» l|wejtacle 
(theatre), with a good front; botanic garden; 
m,efUcal school, with a library of 8,000 volun^es. 

The Commercial Port is at Ppftrei^, ftnd is 
pK(^|kected by a breat^water. 

Q9WQ fought t)ie battle of th^ 1«< Jme^ 1794, off 
Bjresjt; where tjbe ^eet continued tp watch all 
t^iu^gh the w«r. Oj\e of tj)e bo^ts of t^ie un- 
^rtjMiate Am«^oj> esc^pijd ip ber§, 1862. The 
ellSf^nAe is moiat ai^ tb« atmosphere clou()y. 

£biiMywKi»: By raii, tiQ ^f(«mh KM^tes. Lo^ient, 
Ae. ; by steam to ChAtea^iin, up thte AwlaSy Across 
the harbour, and theace to Gamaret, briags |iou to 
the megallthic aligiMnent of Twrtmgvst, of about 
80 stones, some 18 feet high. Near it is ♦^iew of 
the Bee du Raz, at the xofmth f^ Pouara^nes Bay 
(see Route 42). Rail, 20 miles to Ploudahn^zean 
(megalithic remafaas), throij^b Si. Renaa (m^al^ir 
89 fe^t high) and l4U»rivoa|-^. Another lii»e» 18 
miles, mas from Brest to jAanUia. 

Fiom Brest, along tb« coast ^ovnrds the yfBsi^ 
youpass Goaquet (13J miles), at the n^outh o^ ^ 
Roads, aear St. Mathieaa old Aft&«y» aiwl the Itighi 
on St. Matthew's Point, and oicerlookiag th^ 9#r 
of Brest, whore the French were so c^iiafnBy 
watched by the English fleet in tl^e war ; alfP %\i» 
PoMsage d» Fout, wiiich )i<es i^sl^ tj^e IJpljk^i^, 
»nd the other wUd rocky idands, in t^e A^lantits. 
fuvther on (to the f orti)), the rQS4 le^^f to thfi 
IftaWro/ KittU»z, a sUndlng iM^ » feet hlgfe, 
aaar St. Kenan, Baypnd this ar,« tiuB ro«9« f^OlHh 
AibMr«sa«h hnnra. 4te. 



Botttlf 15A.J 



Kjurs-Boox TO viuxom. 



Paris to VemlUM, Drenz, Lal«l«» Ar- 
gentui, Flen, Yire, and drantille. 

VettfldlU^S, M In Route 15. Hence to 
it. Csrr, in the same Route. Turn off the main 
Oiiest line to 

Plaislr-Grlgnon (7 miles), and 

Itontfort-L'ainatiry (?§ mlles), under there- 
mains of a castle built by Amaury de Montfort, 
and enlarged, with more modem additions, by the 
Dnc de Luyae. It hk» also a fine old C^ttreh, with 
italned windows. Near Aufforgis are remains at 
the Abbff tf Vaux de Cemay. Then Houdau 
(11 mileft), on the rirer Vesprc, where the Opton 
Join*, bating a fin« Gothic Church, bnilt by Robert 
)m Pienx; and an old tower, 12th centuzy, with some 
remains of Us anelent fortlGcationn. Pop., 1,968. 

Dreux (12 mUes), in a fertile part of the Blaise, 
nesr th« Eure, is a well-built sous-prefecture of 
0,364 population, who make cloth, hats, linens, Ae.; 
lind stands under a hill covered by the remains of 
its old caUle. It was the capital of the Dvroeasses 
in Casar'a time; Louis le Gros gave it to his son 
Robert; It was burnt by the English (being on the 
border of Normandy) 1188; and talien by Henry 
IV., 1598, after repeated assaults. 

The Church is Early and Later Gothic. The 
aquare BCtel de Ville a mixture of Gothic and Re- 
naiasince, has a curioua chimney and a carred 
cloelc. There are also a college, good hospital, 
and several timbered houses. 

Of the old Chdieau, which Catherine de Medicis 
gave to her son, the Due de Alcn9on, 1558, there 
remains an enormous brick dor^on; a ruined 
Chapel, with sculptures as old as 1142; and a 
highly-finished mffd&n Chapel in the Greek stylfe, 
built by Louis Phili|^; with good glass and sculp- 
tores, one of them being a beantlf nl statue by the 
Princess Marie. Here bis family are burled, 
including his mother (who begait the chapel), his 
aunt the Duchesse de Cond^Bourbon (the poor 
Due d*Enghien*8 mother), his aister, Madame Ade- 
laide (died 1847), his son, the Due d'Orldhns 
(Ull«d l84t), his davffhter, Marie of Wttrtemb«rg, 
and ths remalni of himself, his Queen, and the 
Dueheat of Orieana, brought from Weybridge, 
1876. Appliftoiheemekrge. A high tower close k> 
It iMMls b/ a MibttfipMMi ir»j to tl}8 abapfl. 



On the pldn etose by, In tlie battiQ of 1M9, the 
CalTlnists, uader the Prtnoe of Cond^ and Coligny^ 
were defeated by the Royalists, under Mont- 
morency, Conde being taken prisoner. 

fip/ei*.— DuParadis; del'ltcrltoire; duSaumon. 

Rail to Maintenon for Ohartres (page 67). Rail 
direct to Evrenz (page 4J), 37 miles, passing 
through St. Aadr6 and Pny. RaU to Aoiiaaa. 

The line from Evreux and Rouen to Dreuxi 
and thence to Chartres and Orleans, forms part of 
the Great Outer Circle round Paris. 

About 9| or 12i miles north-east, down the Eure, 
are Anet and Ivry (see Route 8). Up the Blaisa 
(10 kil. south-west) arc remains of Cr^cy chateau, 
built by Louis XIV., for Madame de Pompadour, 

KonanCOlirt (9 miles), on the Avre; #here 
Henry IV. slept the idght before the battle of Ivflf, 
Tilll^reS (7 miles), on the Avre, is nesLT Meshit- 
sur-r^stre'es, the paper factory of Firmin Didot 
Frhrety the first printers in France. They employ 
above 400 hands, and can turn out about twelve 
miles of paper dally, in strips four feet bfo4^. 
A willow in the garden was slipped from ihot 
which overhung Napoleon's grave at St. Helena. 

yemeull (8 miles), pop., 3.990, on the Avf«; 
several fine churches, 11th and 15th centuries. 

Laigle (see' Route 11). Here the line to Conches 
and Serquigny turns off. 

St. Gaablirg0(lO miles), at the junction from 
Barnay (page 46), Mortagne (page 59), and 
Mamera (page 60), and at the branch to Oac^ 
(towards Mezidon). 

Nonant-le-Pln, and Montaign Castle; a fe# 
miles from Chambois^ with an ancient Donjon and 
Church, and 6 miles from the National Stud At Pin. 

Surdon; followed by 

Almen^Cliea (ll miles), a tumuius, and 

Argentan (7 mUes). Here the line falls in with 
the Le Mans and Mesf don line. (See Ronte 18.)* At 

Brlonze (18 miles), a short branch tmraa off to 
La Fert^Kae^, 9 miles long (see page 79). 

Meaaei (8 miles). Buins of a ch&teau. 

Flora (8 miles.) FopulatioQ, 18,660. Settl.-^ 
De rOnest, good. 

{Here is a branch to Caen, via 

Cond^-aur-Nolreaa* once held by the Hu- 
guenotSi who met in synod here, 1674. Popa« 
l»tt«a Q,1H wi)9 maAttAviaif Uaens. naUa. 




r 



H 



BRADBHAW'S ILLT7STRATBD. 



£9e«. i. 



^ ' coitoii, thrca<!, Ae. 'St.liiartin,i2ih aiid IStli 

• ' centuries, is decorated with stained windows 

of the latter date, and has a statae of Admiral 

D'Urviile, burnt to death, 1842, on the Ver- 

*" saillcs railway. TJicre are remains of a 

' Chateau which the English took, 1418. Hotel. 

-DuLlond'Or.] 

• Uonsecret. Here a line (5 miles) rans off to 
Tinchebrai. 
' [Tinchebrai (department Calvados), on the 

Nolroau, which had a castle wl>ere Robert 

Curthose., Duke of Normandy, was finally 

' defeated and taken prisoner by his brother, 

• Henry I. of EingUmd, 1106.] 

▼1X6.(17 miles), an old place andsou8-pr«Sfccture, 
in department Calvados, wiih 6,635 inhabitants, 
noted for its good-looking, sprightly women. It is 
well placed oa an eminence, where the Vire and 
the Viraine join ; and the environs, being hilly, are 
very pleasing. At the end of Place du Ch&teau, 
on a rock, is the old Chfttcau de Montgomery. 
'Jlotice Notre Dame Gothic Church. Les Vaux de 
Vire are two charming valleys, which give name to 
the Vaudevilles, or musical plays; the oldest of 
which were written by Jean de Hoiix, a lawyer 
here. Oliver Basselin, the anacreontic poet, was 
A native. 

Cloths, fine linens, and "paper are made here. 
] Hotel.—VvL Cheval Blanc. 

Several grottoes and standing stones are near; 
Snd at Brimhal Hill, the highest in this quarter, 
the Vire, the Vey, the Secz, the Noircau, and 
the Grenne all take their rise. 

[From Vire a line runs through Sourdeval, 
Mortaln-le-NeufbOUrg (correipondance for 
Mortaln), and Pontaubault (page 73), to 
,' ' Avranches (page 52). 

SOUXdeTal, on the litt!e river Sde, which works 
< • many paper factories in the neighbourhood, at 
Bipaufigcl, Brouhains, &c. Population. 3,914. 

Mortftin a small town and sous-prefecture 

•"' (population, 2,231), jn department Manche, 

on the Cancc. The fine remains of its Castle 

arc close to a pyramid-shaped rock, near a 

^^'a^erfa^ of lis feet, among some picturesque 

' cliffs covered with shrubs and lichens. The 

•  "'nfri and curious WftiiSltlWi Ndwnah 0h«rch wasil 



founded 1082. A road to Avranctics here, 27 
. Tniles. i/pte/.— De la Poste.] 
[On the line from Vire to St. L9 (page 62) is 
ToRiGNT which has, at the HOtel de Ville, part 
 of a noble Ch&teau (which was mostly de- 
stroyed, 1769), with some pictures, and a piece 
of Qobelin^ tapestry. It is further known for 
the marbre de Torigny, a Roman-Gallic relic of 
the third century, now at St. Lo.] 
St. Sever, curious church of the 18th century 

Villedleu-les-Po^les (9| miles), population, 
3,505. Chapellc S. Blaise; ruins of a commandcry 
of the Knights Templars. It has been long note4 
for its cauldrons, kettles, Ac, hence its name. 

FoUigny (9i miles) ; branch to Coutances, &c. 

Granville (37 miles from Vire), a bathing-jdace, 
at the terminas, on the granite cliffs, in sight of the 
Channel Islands, with a good sized, but shallow, 
harbour, in.<»ide a fine mole, well fortified. The 
Vcnd^ans tried to take it, 1798. Its old Gothic 
Church has carvings in granite, and a spire, 112 feet 
above the sea. Pretty Casino gardens. The people 
(12,721) are pilots, fishermen, boat-builders, and 
carry on a trade in grain, cider, salt, &c. There Is 
a Light on Cape Lihou, 154 feet above the sea. 

Hotels. — Du Nord ; des Trois Couronnes. 

Resident English Vice-Consul. 

High water at full and change, 6h. 30m., the tide 
setting in with dangerous swiftness, and rising 
sometimes 40 feet. The neighbourhood is very 
attractive. Steamers from and to Jersey twice 
a week. They pass the Chausey, Minquiers, and 
other shoals, which abound here. 

ROXJTB le. 

Le Mans to Alencon, Argentan, Mezldoxi. 

and Caen. 

By raily 83 miles. 

Le Mans (as in Route 15) 

Descending the Sarthc, our line crosses it once 
or twice, and roaches 

NeuvllUe (6i miles). Tlien 

La Gulerohe-Bur-Sarthe iS miles). 

Montblzot (2^ miles), on the Orne-Sonnoise, 
near Ballon (4 mike), and its old Castle on a hill. 

yiVOln''-Beaiimont (H miles). Viroln, to the 
'east, has remains (ISth century) of a prlooy 
Churth.. -To-tUe-westv l-nrile,'ia ..-.., ........ 



.ftouteie.] 



^ 



•n AMD-BOOK Td . FRANCS. 



m 



Beaumtmt-^ur-Sarthiy or B.-Ic- Vieomte, in a beaati- 
' fol amphitheatre abore tho Sartbo, horo crossed by 
:two bridgres. It has a church of tho 11th contnry. 
- Population, 1,969. The old Castle of its viscounts 
• and dukos serves for a prison ; nnd a well-pre- 
-Mrved tumulus near it is called Motte 2i Madame. 

La Hutte-ConlombierS (2 miles), ^here 
^branches part oft' to SiU^-le-Guillaume, via 

. Fresiiay, page 01 ; and to Mortagne, by Mamers. 

[FresXiay-SUr-Sarthe, S miles from Fresnay- 
le-Vicomtf, on the Sarthe, is a very pretty spot, 
containing several linen factories (population 
about 2,900), a N«rmnn Church, 12th century, 
two round toirers of an old Chilteau, sub- 
terranean chapel, 13tb century, -witti itarts of 
ancient walls, perched on tho limestone rocks, 
above the river. Tho vertical strata of the 
transition limestone are here crossed by hori- 
zontal beds of Jura rock.] 
, Boiirg-le-Boi (dj mile), on the confines of 

Normandy, was fortified by Henry II. of Enjfland, 

with towers aud walls, now in ruins. 

From thiSf It is 6 miles to 

ALENCON. 

Population, 18,319. 

Hotels — I)u Grand Cerf; do France; de la 
Po'-te; de la Gare. 

This old scat of the Dues d'Alen^on is a pleasant, 
well-built town, the capital of department Orne, in 
 a wide, fertile plain, covered with forests, where 
the Sarthe and Briante join. It belonged to the 
county of Perchc, once part of Normandy. Mar- 
guerite, Francis I.*8 sister. Duchess of Alcn^on, by 
her first husband, resided here, and gave an asylum 
to many persecuted Protestants and others, who, in 
return, styled her the *' tenth Muse." Some 
remains of the ancient walls exist in Rue duCours. 
The Prdfecturc is a brick building of tho 17th 
' ccnturj'. 

Hotel de Ville, on the site of the old Castle, of 
which two round mnchicolatcd towers arc loft at 
the prison opposite. Muscnm nnd library. 

Notre Dame Cathedral, built between 1353 and 
1617, is a small Latin cross, 107 feet by 32. The 
beautiful triple Portal, with its 'centre arch in 
advance 'of the other two, is richly carved, and se^ 
"^ off with statues ; the nave has some good carvings 
and 8tain«d windows ; and tho altar is «keorato| 



with the Aasnmption, in wlilte marble, and « 
copper canopy. There aro mural paintings, and 
a sculptured pulpit, date 1536. Montsort Church, 
in the suburbs, across one of the two bridges. It 
is said to be of the 8th century. 

There are also a Palais de justice; public Library 
of 15,000 vols.; and a fine oak armoire by Guujon 
or Pilon. 

Hubert, an infamous revo'utionary liero, who 
edited the Pire Duchesne paper, was a native. 

A trade in grain, cider, coarse lin> ns (toilestVAlen- 
fon). bread, goose feathers, ttc , nnd horses of a 
good breed. Its manufacture of delicate lace, 
called point (TAlenf on, first introduced from Venice 
by Colbert, 1ms almost died out, but may revive 
with a turn of fashion. It is rich in a geological 
point of view, as the neighbourhood produces 
kaolin and granite. 

The old Castle nnd church of St Cenery le G^ey 
(7i miles), stormed by the Earl of Arundel, 1484; tlie 
du Gnz glass votks in Ecouvc forest (5 milcn); and 
remains of a monastery in Persaigne forest, uiay 
be visited from here. 

Rail to Conde-Bur-Huisne, via Morta|;ne 

(see page 59), as part of tho Great Outer Circle 
round Paris, going on to Chart res, Orleans, <Vo. 
Rail to Domf font (page 72). 
Leaving Alen^ou, the next statiou is 

Vingthanaps (6i miles). 

8e^8 (6i milcb), on the Orne; the old Cititat 
Sagiorum, and a bishop's sec; wiih an elegont 
Gothic Cathedral of the 12th century, remark- 
able for a fine porch, between two beautiful 
spires, a lofty nave, carved altrtr-piece, &c. At 
the new episcopal palace arc Portraits of all the 
prelates. Priests' seminary in the large old abbey 
of St. Martin. Population, 4,272: linen wearers, 
&c. A bronze statue of Contd is by Droz. Hotels. 
— Du ChcvnlUlanc; du Dnupldn. 

.Surdon (5 miles). 

Almen^ches ('2| mllos). Church of Ifth cen- 
tury, nnd tumulus. 

Argentaxi ni mllcs) Ilcrc a line is can ied on 
to Vire and Granville (sec Itoute 15a). It is a sous- 
prdfecture of 6,247 inhabitants, on a hill by tho 
Orne, in a fertile plain, near tho forest of Couircrn. 
Here Henry II. received the papal legates, who 
oauioV> mediate on bolialf of Jieckot. THa ditch 



r 



72 



BBIDSHILW'B XCLUiTXJkTBS 



[See. f . 



of tiie old Coifteof tho Comtoi d'Aryentau fonts 
a beaatiful promenade; and the portieo of St. 
Germain's church Is worth notice. St. Martin's 
Church. 15th century, with stained glass, and a 
spire en clochetoru. A Roman camp and megalithic 
remains are near. Hotels. — ^Des Trois Maries; de 
Normandle. 

Fresn^-la-M^re (13 miles). 

ConlilMBaf (2 miles) is the junction for Fa- 
laiso, to which a branch rail of 4 miles is made. 

[Falaise, a sous-prdfecture in department Cal- 
vados, in Normandy, is a curious old Norman 
. town, and noted as the birth-place of William 
the Conqueror, whose statue on horseback, by 
llochet, was set up 1851 ; statues of six dulees 
were added 1876. 

Perched on the highest rocks is the once impreg- 
nable Norman CcM//e (where the Conqueror first 
drew breath), including the walls, 16 to 42 feet 
high, with the keep and Toteer (100 feet), 
built by the great Talbot, who took the 
castle in the time of Henry V. It was again 
retaken by Henri Quatre, 1589; and is now 
partly used as the communal College. 

Eiist of the old town is the faubourg of Quibrayy 
where a celebrated Fair^ of very ancient date, 
for horses, &c., is held 10th to 25th August, 
below are the picturesque quarters of Valine 
d'Ante and St. Laurent, watered by the small 
river Ante. Population, 313. Hotels. — De 
Normandie; de France; du Grand Cerf. 

Five miles off arc La Brcche au Diablc, a vast 
rent in the soil, and the Gorge of St. Qucntin. 

Tlie rail is continued, 18 miles, to Berjou- 
Pont-d'Ouilly and Flers, page 69.] 

VandoBuvres (4 miles). 

M^zidon (2 miles), on the Cherbourg line, as ia 
Route 11. Hence 14 miles to Caen. 

ROTJTos ir. 

Alen^on to Bagnoles and Domfttmt. 

Alen90n, as in Route 16. 

Lonray (3j miles), Pr^-en-Pail (lo miles), 

noted for its eider ; here the road turns off to 
Couterue (ll miles); where a junction is made 

with Bagnoles and La Fert^-Uac4, page 69. 

Bagnoles de rOme is in a quiet, pretty ral- 

Ui^ •mrowided h^ good proi&wadiMi Tbe wtob- 



Ikhmentto well manftged, lodgings are g«od, and 
the season for taking the waters is between M«|r 
and September. They are tonic and porgatlTe; 
and are useful in nztaneoiis complaints, efaroalo 
rheumatism, gout, uleers, and diseases (rf thejolotf. 
Temperature, SI" F. BoteLr~J)e» Bains ; de Bag- 
noles. 

Several Objects of notice are near, as the Ch&teauc 
of Bermondi^re and Couteme, St. Orler chap^, 
Bonvonloir watch tower, in Audieone Forest, the 
iron works of Varennes and Cossd. 

JnTlgny-sons-Andalne (6 miles), St. Front 

(6 miles). 

Domfront, if mile (ffoM—De la Foste), 
on a rock over the Yarennes, is a small sous- 
prefecture, in department Ome (population 4,932), 
and a station on the Laval and Caen rail; 
once a walled town defended by a strong Castle, 
built, 11th century, by Guillaume de Bellesme, now 
a picturesque ruin. It is near Mont Hedouze^ one 
of tiie highest points in this quarter of France. 

William the Conqueror and his sons, Henry 1. 
and Henry II., made it their residence; Eleanor of 
Guienne, wife of the last, gave birth to a daughter 
here; Charles YIII. stopped here on his way to 
Mont St. Michel ; and Charles IX. also, about the 
time that Montgomerie, the Protestant leader, wfts 
imprisoned in it. He had the misfortune to kill 
Henry II. in a tournay, for which Henry's Italian 
Queen never forgave him. It stood several sieges, 
the last of which was when Henry IV. took It, 1689. 

Notre Dame Churchy datuig from the 11th cen- 
tury, is a ruin. There is a prison built, they say, 
by the English. The houses are old-fashioned, and 
the streets crooked and steep; the water is bad, bat 
the air is pure, though sharp. 

" Domfront^ viUe de malAeicr; arriviamiSi:ptn4u 
(» tine heure; pas seulement le temps de diner r* 
(Domfrontj a bad place for me ! Came at tweiro, 
hung at one 1 Not even time for dinner!) This 
curious speech, which has become current here,4s 
attributed to an unlucky Calvinist officer in the 
religious wars, who, having fallen into the enemy*s 
hands, was forthwith led to execution by Ills inhos- 
pitable captors. 

Iron, glass, and paper works are near. 

Rail to Mayenne and Laval (page S2|, aad ItQ 



Kotties 16 aud 19.] 



HAVJD^BOOK TO FBAKCB, 



73 



i^o u 'X ' Jsi is: 

lAtil to F(riigrte:efi, PontorHon, Most l^t. 
Mlclielt and AvrailclieJi. 

Laval to Vltr^ (22 miles), as ia Boute 15. 
Thence across the Vilalne to Qdrard (4^ miles), La 
Boche (3i miles), Chfttillon-en-Vendelais (4| miles), 
mined chftteau, 14tU ceiitary, Parc^ (IJ mile), 
Domplerrc-du-Chomiu (2^ miles). La Brebiti^re 
(2 miles), La Selle-efi-Lnitr^. Near here, on the 
rail to Mayenne, is 

ERKiB Cll milei), ft pretty place, on the Em^e, 
which the Yendtfan army crossed, 1793, in their 
advance northwardi. Population, 6,149. Hotel. — 
De la Poste. 

Foug^rea U* miles), a handiome, weQ-bailt 
■otiB-^r^fectnrei in department lUe-et-Tilaine, in 
a healthy spot, on the Nan^on, where sereral roads 
Join. Population, 1&,221. It vraa formerly eiie of 
the most important keys of Brittany, before its 
union with tbe crown. The ruined ramparts are 
16th century. A point behind St. L^nard^s Church 
oonunands a view of the charming Vatlef t^ CAe 
Jfan^m^ and the old Gothic towers of Baoul de 
Fougires* ruined Chduau. In the forest, near this, 
are the Monument and Pierre de Tr^sor (.Standing 
Stones); also a subterranean passage called the 
Celliers de Landeau. 

Vast numbers of tabot», or wooden shoes, are 
made here; besides which it has manufactures of 
linen and hemp cloths, and a trade in grain, oat- 
meal of well-known quality, beer, honey, (fee. 

Hotel. — St. Jacques. 

Ball to Vitr€, on the main line. A continuation 
of it from Foug^res passes St. Bricc, Antrain, and 
Pontorson (as below), for Mont St. Michel. 

[About 12| miles south-west, on the Bennet 
road, is 

St. AuBiir-Du-CoRiiiBB, in a forest, with its tall, 
picturesque Tovser of the Ctu/fe, built 1222, by 
Pierre, Due de Bretagne, It is celebrated for 
the defeat sustained, 1488, by Duke Francis II» 
(father of Anne of Brittany) and the Duke of 
Orleans (afterwards Louis XII.), from the 
forces of Charles YIII., commanded by Yicomte 
de la Tr^mouille, then a young man of 18.] 

8t. Brice-e&-Cogl^ (ll miles), on the OiMace, 
jHid U»e rail fron Fpog^iesi m ft))«Te^ 



Aatraln (8 BiUee)^ Vamw avwn tli« itrtaiiH 
where it Joins the OenetBon. Dol (sea SoUte If) 
is 15 miles north-weit. 

POBtonKm (6 mileB), atthe rtioilth«f the Cofaes- 
aon, in departoaBnt Manxdie, an old |>lftoe, ifortUUd 
by Bobert, Duke of Normandy, and nearly Ml 
burnt in 1736. Church of lUh and 18th «entari«. 
Population, 2,839. Omnibus to Mont Bt. Michel 
(see page 76), by a good road, and then over an 
embankment to the famous Mmi St. Miehtl (H 
miles nevth), which, as well as Avbakchrs, reached 
via rail from Pentorson (by way of Fontaubaidlt 
on the Ce!tui%)t Is described In Boute 14, page ^i. 



BaBiMB to Dol» DlBMii aM 81. Maid. 

By rail to St. Male, 00 miles. 

Ronnes, as in Boute 10. From here It is 86 
miles to Dol) the junetion of the line for Diaan, 
St. Malo, and Avranches. The line passes 

BottOB (6 miles) and St. Oeiiiialn-stir-ille 

(4| miles) near the Ille and Banco Canal. Th^n 
MontrenllHitir-nie {H miles) and comlxmrg 

(8i miles). Chateau, 11th to 15th centuries, whefe 
Chftteaubrland passed his childhood. A town 6f 
5,588 inhabitants, with old houses near a lake. 

Bonnemaln (4| miles). Here is a cross-road 
to Dinau, 15 miles. The next station is 

Dol (population, 4,814) -JSTofo/s.* Notre Dame; 
de France— on a rock, above an inlet of the sea (4 
miles ofF), on the old Norman frontier. It was held 
by the Yeuddans, 1793. Some of the houses are 
granite built — in Grande Bue, for instaaoe— but 
most of them are like those at Dinan. having the 
first floor overhanging that on the ground, and sup- 
ported by pillars, which thus make an arcade In 
front . The old cathedral Churchy once the seat of a 
bishop, is a large Gothic pile of granite, ISth to 
16th centuries, with high towers, and a fine lofty 
nave, resting on four-shafted columns. On the 
sands, at the mouth of the creek Is a granite rock 
called Mont Del 200 feet, with a telegraph on it. 

About 1 mile south of DOl, it the Menhir of the 
Champ Dolent, coniiating of as liwnanae gnmite 
block, 40 feet big^, and 80 rewMl at tlie «I««im|, 
below wbMi it lislEi 10 f •»(. 



r 



.u 



BBIDSBAW'S- ILLC8TBATED 



tSec.i. 



T)iO noIg^hbouthoDd, fortnerly fdrcitj and thon 
^oyerflowed by the. -tea, has been r<.'claimed, and 
protected by an embankment. 

- From' Dol' (17| miles) to DUian, passing by 
Plerguer, Minlac (rail to Chftteauneuf) Pleu- 

• dlhen, and by- a viadnct orcr the valtey of the 

• fiance to La Hisse whence it is 3 miles to 

DIBTAN, 
A sous-prdfecture, in department COtes-du-Nord, 
and a fine old town, most picture- quely seated on 
^ a steep granite rocJk^ 200 feet above the Ranee, up 
which liver vessels of dOjO tons from St. Halo (19 
miles) come, by taking advantage of the tide, which 
rises 80 to 40 feet, witli great suddenness. 

^o<</s.— rD'Angleterre; de Bretagnc ; de la Poste; 
dn Commerce. 

.  Miss Barr's English Boarding House. 

English Church ^Service^ every Sunday, at the 
pretty little church. 

^ Pt^ulation, 10,4-14. Dinan was a Roman station 
ill tl>e country of the Curiosolilet. Dugaesclin took 

. it from the English, 1373; and De Clisson again, a 

[ few years later. The Leaguers of this part made 

'. it their head-quarters, but gave it up to Marshal 

' Brissac, 1598. 

Its old walls remain, so thick, that a carriage 

' may drive on them; the moat outside is planted 
over. In one pnrt, near Porle St. Louis, is the 

: tall macbicolatcd Donjon, built 13i)0, by Duchess 
Anne, now serving for a prison. 

' Like all old towns, Dinan has many narrow dark 
streets, of olU-fashioned wooden homes ; but the 
more modern ones are built of granite. Placs 
DugueseHn s the site of a combat in 1359, between 
that warrior and a " Thomas of Cantcrburj-." His 

'■ statue ornaments one cud, and his houu stands in 
Rue de la Croix. 

' St. Mnlo's Gothic Church, with its spire, has vari- 
• 0U3 carvings of sncrcd and profane subjects. Tliat 

of St. Sauvetir, 12th century, Romano-Ogival, and 
' contains bas-reliefs of the Loves of Psyche, and a 

uionuuient over Dugucsclin's heart, brought here 
! in 1810, irum the Dominican church. 

'- Tlio graniic//or/oj7e, or clock tower, ends in a 

*ApirfS4 It i» near the JJotei de Ville, whicii was 

formerly a hospice,* aud boldB the |HtbHc -library 



of 3,000 volumes, besides portraits of Duclos the 
historian, the excellent La Garaye, and the soldiers 
Duguesclin and Beaumanoir. In the Museum^ 
founded a few years ago by M. Odorici, are three 
curious old stcUues of saints, brought from Plum- 
audan church. Two pillars, of a single block ot 
granite each, front the tribunal. There are also a 
college, hospital, sallc-dc-coneert. 

A fine viaduct, 820 feet long, 130 feet high, joius 
it to Lauvallay. 

A pretty road leads out to the Coninale mineral 
Springs (^ mile), in a deep valley ; useful in cases 
of indigestion, &c. 

The neighbourhood is exceedingly pleasant, 
abounding in many charming walks and points of 
view. Within a distance of 4 miles are the fol- 
lowing: — 

At LAon, or L^on, only | mile oft, on around hill, 
are the massive walls and eight round towers of a 
Castle, built, they say, on the site of a Roman fort, 
and rebuilt about 1400. Close by is the Gothic 
chapel of St. Magliore's Priory (founded 850, by 
Nominod), where the Beaumanoir family were 
buried. Near St. Esprit and the large lunatic 
asjlum (I mile west), under the care of the brothers 
of St. Jean de Dieu, is a Gothic cross of granite, 
worth notice* 

La Caraye Cfidteau (1 mile north-west), in the Re- 
naissance style, is the ruined seat of its benevolent 
owner, of the last century, who retired here with 
his wife, and turned it into a dispensary, Ac, for 
the benefit of the poor. — Chesnan in the forest of 
CoStquen, was the seat of Abb€ P. De Lamennais. 

Corseul (2^ miles north-west) was the capital of the 
Curiosolites, a Gaulish people, where remains of a 
temple of Mars (30 feet high), Roman epitaphs, 
altars, pieces of columns, coins, bronzes, &c., have 
been found. Many of the tiles in its walls were 
used to repair those of St. Malo. An inscription is 
seen on the church ; and a Roman way may be 
traced. Montafilan ChlLtcau is a ruin. — At St. 
Jurat, Quiou, ((c. (5 miles south), fossil shells are 
abundant. — Gantc rie ( 1 miles) has remains of the 
Rochc-aux-Fecs (Fairies' Rock), in granite; an- 
other monument (of quartz rock) is at Lesmonts 
<2i miles), near Ploucr; and a granite menhir of 
large sizelkt St. Samson or Tfeifiblafe (2| mil^s). 



A0!lt6l9.1 



kAKD-BOO& 90 FBAKCC^: 



^5 



. 'A steamer np' and down the Ranee daily, with 
the tide. Its banks are high and rocky, an<l in 
•ome parts well wooded. 

• _ • 

Trade in butter, flax, honey, souV^f de paeotillt 
(shoes for exportation). Rail to Dioard, opened 
18S7. 

» 

. Plnard is a small bathing place, population, 
4,435,' with an Etablissemcnt de' bains and several 
hotels. Good excursions to several fine spots. 
* English Church Service, 

Mr. John Le Cocq, Banker and House Agent, 
inay be npplied to for jiarticulars concerning 
Dinard, Dinan, St. Enogat, St. Briac, St. Lunaire. 
See Advt. 

Bail to Dinan ; thence to La Brohinigre, and m'4 
kennes to Paris (Route 15). 

Steamer to St. Malo. 

From Do! to St. Malo the line passes 

. La. Fresnais (Similes), onto 

La Gouesni^re. Correspondance to Cjncale, 
b% miles, see page 76. 

Here there is a cross line to Miniac-Morvan (on 
the line from Lamballe to St. LO), past Chateau- 
KEUF, on the Hance, in dep;irtment Ille-ct-Vilaine, 
a small old place, defended by a fort on Vauban's 
system, constructed 1777. Above is a scat and 
paric, including remains of the old Castle. 

At 5| miles from La Gouesni^re is 

ST. UALO, 

.1 kil. from St. Servan. 

Hotels. — Hotel Franklin; do France; de 
rUnivers. 

Resident English Vice-Consul and Chaplain. 

English Church Service. 
. Kail to Renues, &c. Steamer to Jersey, Tuesday 
and Friday. 

A sous-prefecture of 11,896 population, tliird-class 
fortress, &c , and the best haven in this part of 
France, lying at tlio entrance to a difficult bay, at 
the mouth of the Ranee, whicli is five miles across 
from Pointe de la Verde to Pointe du DecoU^, and 
covered with rocks above and below water. 

Tlie town stands on the He d'Arou, joined to 
the main by a solid causeway, called le Sillon, 200 
yards ^|dc; whlcb often rc(|uircp repair qii np- 



cotint of Injdriet oebasioiied by the tea. To Iha 
tost' of the Molo (oarrying a fixed light) is the 
Port, which is left dry at low water, bat is per- 
fectly safe. The anchorage in tlie Rode or Roadu, 
on the west, is protected by seven forts,. one of 
which, on He Canch^e (3 miles out), was bailt )»y 
Vauban; another is on Cdzombre; and a tliird on 
Beys Rock, near the bar and tlie Rochor atix 
Anglais. Beacons are placed lie re and there to 
mark the channels between the rock, some of which 
are 20 to 3D feet high, and bear such names as 
Crolantc, Durand, Bcnctln, Grnndes et Petites 
Pointues, Grande Conch de, Pierre aux Norraands, 
Eonfleresse, Buharats, <fcc. The Light on Cape 
Frehel, 13 miles off, is within view. Near this 
light is St. Cast'.s Cliateau, " celebrated," say the 
French, " for the victory of that name over the 
English, in 1758." Thcmouument for perpetuating 
the recollection of this paltry atTnir (in which the 
assailants, while attempting to land, were perfectly 
helpless) was carefully restored in 1858. 

St. Malo replaces the ancient Aletum. the name 
of which is preserved in Guich Alct Point, near 
this, and in that of St. Pierre d'Aleth, at St'. 
Servan. It looks well, and has good hotels, and 
streets of tall houses, but is rather a dull place. 
There are pleasant walks, wirh prospects of the 
sea, <kc., on the large high walls round the edge of 
the rock, which are strengthened by old towers 
and Vauban's bastions. 

Two of its four gates, St. Vincent and St. 
Thomas, arc close to the ancient Ch&teau^ built by 
Aime of Brittany, now a caserne forming part of 
the fortifications. This ciiAteatt is a square pile, 
with comer towers, one of which is called <2«< ?«'cn 
grognej from an inscription pat upon it by that 
strong-minded lady—" Qui qu'en grogne., ainsi sera ; 
c'est man j)toi»tr,"~Jt will be done, whoever Inay 
grumblq^tit; it is my will. 

The old cathedral Church, the seat of a bishop 
before the lievolntio.i, is in the Gothic style. 
There arc two other churches; a bourse, or 
exchange, two hospitals (ono fur foundlings), a 
school for navigation, tobacco factory, and Hotel 
de Ville, containing curious relics of Carticr, the 
navigator. Under Fort de la Citd is a suspension 
bridge to St. Servan, built 1817; and leadinir to 
I he tftqree graphe, or tide-mctcr. A *• 



r 



ft 



BSADBBJLir'g lUVfnAZO ■AI»*BOeK TO r&AHCE. 



(9m. % 



■MBhfnqveiittd ia tk« nmanm. Old hewecf ttt 

l#lil6tBiWJ. 

Oppoflte th« caih«dnil to the ttatae of 1>ii0mv- 
tV iwan ^ A braT« ■wimiii, and a luitiTe. <^Mttm- 
brUmd wu bom in Rue dm Jaif a, ftbd to butod ta 
*a toUiBd near BoUdor fort. Millers bronze of 
lilm ttaads in Place Chateaubriand. Oartler, 
frho dtocorered Canada, ISM; Manpertula, tha 
astronomer; Laboudonnaye, who toelE Madras; 
Ahd Jkbbd Lamennato, are atoo natives. 

II was a great place tor privateer* ift war time, 
4nd, as might be expected, was noted for smugrgUng, 
bat this has fallen off. Some of the best sailors in 
trance ai^ found liere. Ships are fitted oat for the 
whale and cod fisheries, and the eoaating trade 
(petit cabotage). 

Cordage, lines, fish-hooks, sails, and soiq;> are 
made. Chief exports are grain, potatoes, batter, 
and eggs; imports, cod and coaL There Is a trade, 
also, in f^it, wine, spirits, salt prorisions, toile* 
Oe BreUigtu (linens), eider, honey, batter, wax, 
And oysters. 

A steamer ascends the Ranee to Dinan, in the 
summer months only. Sailing boats, 2 to 8 francs 
ihe hour. 

Closely cowweted wfth Bt. Mato by a swtaig- 
bridge to the town of 

[St. Sebtah, a port arid bathing-place, with 
lt,COS population (some of them English), 
separated from St. Halo only by a small bay, 
which dries at low water, when yon may cross 
tlM sands in a eart In ten Ininutes; but at high 
water 60 /M dttp. BoM.—D^ rUuiM- 
Boarding Honse. JSnglish Church Bertk$ on 
Soiiday. 

A vast stone CanatowAy, 91 feet wide, begnu to 
St. Malo, QQW fQnUB tt harbour (89<| acrei) of 



thtoh«y«whiehhM^«ieitw« little potto in it, 
. St. P^re and 8oUdor,-4he latter t«kine aaM» 
from a Fori between them, on a lodc, haiU te 
1382. It to abore 60 feet high, exclneiTe of the 
machicolated top, haring round towers at each 
Of the three comers. 

The town is well built, and the neighbourhood a 
pleasant one; there is good bathing; in4 
mineral waters may be taken.] 

Two miles from SL Malo, along the D<^ road, 
you come to FarEm^ 3 kilos, from St. Servan, a 
growing watering place, good sands, imd English 
Charch Service. Hotel de la Plage.— ExecHeni 
hotd facing the sea. 

Grand Hotel de Paramtf, beantifnl first-class 
hotel, agreeably situated facing the sea. See Advt, 

Steam tram every hour to St Malo, whence rail 
to Dol and Rennes and steamer to Southampion 
and Jersey. 

Here you leave the Dol road for St. Columb and 

Cahcalk (9^ miles to the east), a town on the 
cliffs, overlooking a sandy bay, which stretches 
roond (by Mont Dol and Mont St Michel) to Crran- 
viUe. With the liUle port of La Honle, it contains 
a population of 6,578, fishermen and oyster catchers. 
The ^tten (the Hultres de Cancale) are sent to 
Parto, or to replenish the beds of nativet^ in the 
Thames. A charch on the height commands a 
a fine view of the bay, of the Herpin rocks at ihe 
Gronin de Cancale, and other objects. 

A pleasant excarsion may be made to Mont St. 
Michel (page 53), by train to Dol and Pontorson, 
the nearest station, from which vehides run to the 
Mont. It is perhaps better to take the omnibus 
at Pontorson, which starts (daring the season) after 
the arrival of every tniln. Return fhre, 2 franca 
50 cents. 



SECTION 111. 



][^Q4.PS TO mS 909TH-BA&T. 

t^ CO?«mBCTIQN ^ITH THIS GHEMIV DB FEB BB P1BI8 A L70]f, B? ^ LA 
ygPTTItliF^ATyW?, 4^0 ITS BRANCHES; SUPPLYING MEUJV, FONTAlNEQiiEAU, 
IIOKTERAU, AUXERRE, DIJON, GRAY, DOLE, SALINS, BESAN^ON, BELFORT, 
eHALONS-ST7R-SA6NE, l^ACON, GENEVA, CHAMBI^BY (FOR WONT CENIS), LYONS, 
^T. ifiTIBNNE, RQANNB, BOURGOIN, GRENOBLE, AVIGNON, MARSEILLES, TQU^-ON, 
|[IC^ CORSICA, NIMES, ALAIS, BESfS^Q£S„ KjlX^TPELMER, CETTE, 4to.; IN THE 
OLD PROVINCES OF BOURBOmrAIB, BB49J0ILAIg, DAUFHimr, eBVBNKES, 
yZVABEZ, PSOYBirCB. LANOaBBOC. Ac. 

ChfUHoUm i« in ft plemsat, lieallifey' spot, ftitd has a 
coualyy-sMt wMell b«ioBged to Heiiiy IV.'s mis- 
tresftt Gabrl)ille d'Estv^M; with a Iftrg« and excel- 
colUnt Limaiie AtyUim for four handred peysons, 
fomndad as far ba«k a« 1642, and lately reboilt in 
the Italian style. Fopaiatioa, l«,a06. 

At Conflam, at the j-onction of the Marne and 
Seine, wa« a palace of the Arehbiishop ot Paris, 
pillaged by Ae mob, 1881, and now a religious 
house. 

A connection is made, vt4 Charenton and Javisy, 
to Halesherbes and Montargis. See Route 36: 

To the left, the Fo^ of Charenton; to the right, 
that of Ivry. 

Malsons-Alfprt (Imile) is noted for its GoTJ^m* 
ment Veterinary College^ founded 1766, by Bour- 
gelat. Population, 7,859. 

nrinfiemiBS, to the east (6 miles from F^uciSr 
from which there i^ a ra^, vig, St. MandOt iu a- 
forest, where nine roads meet, is remarkable; 
for an ancient Chdteay, now strengthened ai>d- 
repaired, and made a DepCt of Artillery for thp- 
capital. It was built in 1837, by Philippe of 
Valois, on the site of Louis le Jcunc's CQuntry,- 
seat(as old as 1187). Henry V. of England 
died in it, in 1422. Louis XL lived here, and^ 
as usual, made it a state p/ison. Charles IX. 
( dle4 in it» as did Cardinal M««arftt *' 



mi^ ]4)lfi.^Pari9 to Byoi^ (Kont C^zils). 

gpri^lca, 

^j ra^U 818 qaile* to Lyoi^, or 5AS miles to Mar- 
f^iUf«i. Ts^dos \Si Lyonf in 14 to 16^ hoyrs fojr 
;9irdinary trains, and 8| hours express. Through 
4ffi»s \fi M^r^iU/ct in 14i \»Vl\ hours express. 
The quickest, known as the Ragidfi^ hi&s only a 
limited number of seats. The line pH«^ through 
tliQ bmy di3l^rict of the COte-d'Or, and down ^he 
Rhp^e. 

Embarcadbre in Boulevard Diderot. OmiiibiMes 
'%f> 9)1 tbe tirtifXB from variona points. Ceo^al of^ce, 
88, Rue St. Lazare. 

Thn station is a Urge pile, of sipne, 796 feet by 
^3, with a hangar or starting^pUse, 196 feet wide. 

|^a;ring this, the traii^ passes h% Qr^nde Fipte, 
among wine, spirit, and oil warehonaes, i^hich 
continue to Berct. Ttie railway passes through the 
gardens (laid out by Le NOtrc), belonging to the 
decayed Chdteaude J7er<ri^, ofthetimc of Louis XIV. 
Al the first station, 

CStUtM&tOn-le-POIlt (8i miles), near the new 
fort, it crosses the Marne by an iron ilve-arched 
yiadnet (three arehes are 280 feet span, the others 
9tt feet) restUig on an island, and not far from the 
tUt leD4ur«k bfidge to Alfort (four are of wood>. 



78 



BftADSttAW's tLLUSTaJLTED 



[Sec. 3. 



and hero tho unfortiinnto Diic d" inghien was 
brought from across the frontier, trit-d, and 
shot, by Napoleon's order, 20th March, 1804. 
A marble pillar in the ditch marks the spot — 
"Iliccecidit" ihcrehefell). Louis XV. lived here 
when yonng; Minibeau was K prisoner here; 
the ministers of Charles X. were also sent here ; 
and, lately, it was the residence of tlie Duke of 
Montpensier. Here Thiers, Chnngarnier, and 
Cavaignac were confined on the memorable 
2tid December, 1851; and here 400 commnnists 

, - Burrendorod May, •1871. 

The Chftteau is a moated space, 4, 11$ feet by 656, 
with remains of towers on the walls; and, 
besides three or four courts, includes the tall 
square Z)on;o», with round towers and turrets at 
the corner (now a powder magazine); and fa 
8aUU Chapelle^ a Later Pointed boildiug of the 
16th century (begun 1379,by Charles V.), having 
three spires, the Due d'Enghieu's tomb, good 
traceried windows, stained by J. Cousin, in 
which you see the devices of Henry IV. (an li.) 
and Diane de Poictiers (a crescent). Here are 
also a beautiful ..^rmourf, or Salle d'Armes ; 

. J and an Ecole de Tir (Shooting School). The 
Boii (wopd) contains 3 to 4 square miles, with 
several falls and islands in the water. 

. A great Fgte is held on August 15th. 
Under its trees the excellent St. Louis used, 
frequently, to administer justice to his people. 
- To the south of it is St. Maur-le-Pont, on the 
right bank of the Mame, near a Canal of 3,640 
feet tunnelled through the rock, for the purpose 
of cutting off a bend of the river.] 
The line runs close to the Seine, to 

Vllleneuve-St.-Qeorges (4i miles), a pretty 
spot under a hill, in department Scine-et-Oise, on 
the Seine, where tlie Yfercs joins (crosied bj* a three- 
'arched viaduct), among many ciuntiy-seats. That 
"of Beaurdjjard, on a hill, commands a fine view. 
Vllleneuve, so called, Is as old as Charlemagne's 
time. A suspension bridge leads over to Ville- 
nouve-lc-Roi. ' 

Rail to Drameil - Vigneux. Conveyances to 
Limeil and Boissy-St.-Leger. 

[BoissT (3 miles east) is on a hill covered with 
vineyards and country houses, Orosbois ph&> ! 
^au is near it.J 



Cross the Yferes. by a threo-archod yfrtdact, to 

Montgeron (if miles), in Senart forest, which 
has two Chateaux. 

Coaches to Crosnes and VAhhaye cT Yhres — ^the 
latter having (at a factory) traces of an old Bene- 
dictine house ; C^psnes, the birth-place of BoiUau^ 
at a house in Rue Simon. 

A large viaduct, 130 yar^s long, on 9 arches, 
crosses the valley of the Yferos to 

Brunoy (2^ miles), which is in a forest, and has a 
Chftteau of Louis XVIII., who gave the estate, witn 
the title of Due de Brunoy^ to our great Wellington; 
one of his many well-carried rewards, thtough 
scarcely heard of till his death. Rochefoapanld 
was at Olio time the owner. It stands on the site of 
a favourite seat of Philippe de Valois. There is a 
spire Church of tlie 13th century. Talma had a 
house here. Not far from here is ) 

Brie^Comte-Rdbert (o^ miles east-south-east), the 
old capital of Drie^ in a marshy but fertile spot, 
founded in the 12th century, by Robe>t de Dreux 
(brother of Louis VII.), who built the old ruined 
castle, or Tour-de-Bn'e. Robert IL built St. ifitienne^s 
Gothic Church, which has some" old tombs. The 
ffdtel Di'eu is nearly as old. Charles VIL took it 
from the English, 1440. Brie cheese, pens, tiles Ac, 
are made, and there is a good trade in grain. 
Population, 2,772. There is a line direct from 
Paris (221 miles), passing through Vlncennes (page 
77) and Boissy (above). 

Cross the Y^res again by a viaduct of 410 yards, 
on 23 arches, nearly 100 feet high in some parts. ' 

CombB-la-Vllle m miles), a pretty place on 
the Vferes. 

LleilsalBt (3 miles), near to the forest of 
Senart, seen on the south. 

Cesson (4i Allies). Correspbndance to Seine- 
Port, on the Seine. At 4i mUes further, a Vtaduct, 
72 feet high, on three arches, each 131 feet span, 
leads over the Seine to 

MELUN, 
28 miles from Paris. 
Hotels.— Du Grand Monarque ; du Commerce^ 
Population, 12,792. Capital of department Seine- 
et-Marne, and the Melodunum of Caesar, in a plea- 
sant spot at the foot of a hill, on the Seine, which 
winds round an Island hero, on which the oldest 
part Qf the town, wi^h, iit( ^|o«a <iWfh la m^ftii 



Route 3jO.] 



Two bridge?, one.cAlld the Pont^aux-Moulins 
(Windmill Bridg* ), on several irregular arches, join 
this part to the quarters on the ri^ilit and left banks; 
the latter being the best built, and called St. Aspais, 
after an old solemn-looking Gothic Church of the 
isth or 16ih ccutury, which has some excellent 
stained windows and slender columns down the 
aisles. It stands on Grande Place, near the Prefec- 
ture^ which, with the ancient clock-tower, was part 
of St. Pierre's Benedictine -'166<'y,of very early date 
(when Clovis took the town 494, it had several con- 
vents, ifec), but damaged by the Normans in their 
inrasion, and finally ruined by Henry IV. in the 
wars of the League. The prefecture gardens run 
down to the river, and it stands opposite the 
Ch&tcan of Vaux-le-Peny, whence there is a good 
prospect. The Ildtel de Ville was built, 1847-8, In 
the Renaissance style, with a new tower, matching 
an ancient one, which It includes. ' 

On the island you see the House of Detention for 
this and four other departuicuts, an enormous 
square pilo, with two towers, «kc.; and A'otre Dame 
Church of the 10th century, now restored. Il 
is the site (built on, since 1740) of the Chateau or 
palace of the early French kings, where Philippe I. 
and Robert died, and Blanche, mother of St. Louis, 
kept her court; Isabella, of Bavaria, fled to it 
when driven out of Paris. 

There arc in the town, a palais dc justice, in an 
old convent; A Library of 10,000 volumes at the 
prefecture, a theatre, large barracks, &c. 

The English held possession of Molun between 
1420-3.). Bishop Amifot, grand almoner of France, 
and the translator of Plutarch^ was born here, 1513. 

Trade in grain, wine, cattle, and Brie cheese. La 
Grange, the scat of the I oifayettes, is near. 

Conveyances: By steamer to Paris, Montercau, 
&c ; Correspondance to Barbison, Ac. 

[At 4roilcsnorth-east,onthcMeaaxroad,is Vaux- 
Praslin, or Vaux-le-Vicomto, a fine cb&teau, 
in the Renaissance style, built by Le Vau, for 
J..ouis XlV.'s comptroller of the finances, 
Vlcomte dc Fouquet, at a cost of £1,500,000 
sterling, and regarded, as Voltaire remarks, as 
one of the handsomest in £uro{)c. It is richly 
adorned with sculptures throughout, and paint- 
ings hj Lobrun au4 Mignard. The former 
trUst ODJoy ed a salary of 10,000 (raaoSt besides 



' being paid f6r each pfcture he fintshed. ' Loulft* 
XIV. wag magnificently entertained here, W61, 
but was so shocked at the display lie witnessed' 
. that, a few days after, he sent Its owner into' 
banishment. .It belongs to the Due de Vaax-< 
Praslin.] 

Leaving Melun, the rail passes 

BolB-le-itoi (3^ miles), at the border of the' 
forest of Fontaincbleau. The Changes viaduct, on 
300 arches, and the Chateaux of Vaux-P^ny (finely 
seated), and Rochettc, arc seen ; then, 5 miles fur^ 
ther, comes 

FONTAINEBLEAU, t 

8Q^ miles from Paris. '^ 

Population, U,222. ^ 

Hotels.— Hotel de la Ville de Lyon ; de France' 
et d'Angleterre; de TAigle Noir; de Londres. 
Omnibuses wait on all the trains. 
English Service, in Rue de la Paroisse. 
This place, remarkable for. its Chdteau, where 
Napoleon abdicated, 1814, is a sous-prefecture, in 
department Seine-ct-Mnrne, in a hollow of the 
Forest. It Is well built, and has an Hotel de Ville ' 
a church, built 1G24; the Palais de Justice, in 
Place du Marchd, with the Bibllothbque of 28,000 
volumes ; two hospices, founded by Anne of Austria' 
and Madame de Montespan ; a chateau d'eau, or 
reservoir, in Rue Barer, for supplying the foun- 
tains; statue of General Damesme, erected 1851; 
and the Obelisk to the south, built 1770, when* 
Louis XVI. was married. ^ 

The Chateau, or Palace, is an irregular pile, com- 
posed of five or six courts, of different ages and 
styles, chiefly of brick, with high roofs; joined 
together by galleries, adorned with wall paint-, 
ings. Gobelins tapestry, china, «kc. It originated,, 
1162-9, in a hunting-scat of Louis VII., called Fon- 
taine de Belle Eait, after a spring here; though some 
explain it Fontaine-Bleaud, from a dog of that name.^ 

Philippe-le-Bel died in it; Francis I. greatly im- 
proved it ; it w^as the favourite seat of Henry IV.;. 
Louis XIII. was born here, as was Henry III.'; the 
great Cond^ died here, 1686, the year after Lonia 
XIV. had eigned hero the Revocation mf the Edict o/. 
NanUsi Louis XV. was married here, 1734, Jff^o^ 
leon^ too, here married Marie Louiqe, 1810, an 
signed the ooncocdat wtth Pins VIJ. (then n r 



f» 



ttUAfluVa iLLirsYSJLiieB 



[Sec. 3. 



rnrn^ in 1819; aad here besbdieftied, aath llaich, 
18H* H«va the Ute Dake ef Qrieam wm married, 
1899 \ Biam which the chAteaa has beea in part 
mitored. The School ef Artillery, from Mets, has 
been remored here shioe the war. 

A gate called the Entrde d'Honneur^ in Place 
Ferrare (from which a raiting of 340 feet dlTides 
it), leads into the ^st court, or Coup du Coeval 
ilanpi so called from the plaster casts of M. Aure- 
llan*s horse at Rome. It is the lai^est court ; and 
shice Napoleon took leave of his guard in it, 20th 
April, 1814, is commonly styled Cour des Adifux. 

The second, or Cour de la Fontaine, opens out to 
the gardens, and has, on one side, the 8dUe de la 
BoUe Chemin4e. . Qei^ Charles V. was lodged with 
his suite, 1539. It contains the AppartemenU des 
ij^lief Meres, which were occupied by the Duke of 

Orlea]i4. 

The third court, or Cour OvdU, or du Doi^jon, the 
most ancient of all, is long and narrow, and entered 
by the Por^ floret (with Its frescoes), from the 
AU^ ^aintenon. Another gate is called Porte 
ha^^in^ in memory of ^e birth of Louis XIII. 
ft includes a balcony on 45 pillars, witli several 
room? pr salles, as the St^ de Bal, or G^ll^ry of 
Hfsury II., wUh pictures ; the Sailes du Tr6ne 
apd du ConseU; a library of 30,000 volumes in 
francis l.'s chapel, whose Gallery of frescoes, by 
IftpssL is here, and the windows of which are stained 
from designs by the late Princess Marie d'OrMans ; 
a small plain Cabinet, remarkable as that n which 
Ifapoleon signedhisAbdication; the gallery of Diana, 
1600, and its pictures, by Pujol, &c. 

in the Fourth Cottrt, or Cour de TOrangerie, was 
laie Gallerfe des Cerfs (so called from being orna- 
mented with stags* heads, but since divided off 
into separate apartments), where Christina of 
Sweden put her servant, Monaldeschi, to death, 
1657. She lived in the next or fifth court, Cour des 
Princes, the smallest of all. 
 The last, styled Coiir des Cuisines, with the 
kitchens, Ac., was built 1«09, and contains a Foim- 
tain with bronze mascarons or grotesque masques. 
The chateau is open daily, 10 to 6. 

The Chapel was built 1328^ by Heery IV., on the 
^Ue of St. LottU's, and is richly decorated. 

Btataee, besides |ets d'oau, are diq^rsed over 

ibe gardws; especially a TsUmachus, hy CSeneva, 

V was Ka|Mie<»*a feveoiUe. ThepevterrodK 



! Tlbre Is the oldest; the new one, on the sonth side, 
has a large pond, or iSUmg, full of carp, and some 
waterfalls at the end, from which the canal goes 
off through the park, towards the old Church qf 
il von (where a stone records that " (7t-9C< Hona* 
DELXI *0- 1*he purk contain^ a Jardin Anglais, a 
labyrinth, Ac, and the treiUes du Rot, famous for 
the abundant supply of Ghasselas grapes. 

Ton walk from the town directly into the Forest, 
which is spread over an extent of 42,500 ^cres, about 
55 miles round, on a white sandstone rock, with a 
very irregular surface. It is pierced by scores of 
seniiers, or paths; and is full of strikingly picr 
turesque sites ; some parts being green ai^d well 
wooded, with magnificent shady aUeys qf oak 
and beech, nearly 100 feet high, and groves of fir; 
others, bare and rugged, or covered by patches ot 
heath and broom. The whole has been thoroughly 
investigated by M. Deneeourt, an enthusiastic 
resident, author of an e;ccellent plan, and of 
some numbers of the " D^ices de Fontaineblcau," 
containing minute itineraries of the best prome- 
nades, and points o/pieio. 

Trade in wine, fruit, and ornaments in juniper 
wood, called genivrines. 

A steamer runs on the Seine to Paris. 

From Fontalncbleau (as al)Ove), a long viaduc^ 
leads into 

Thomery (3| miles), near the Seine, but stUl 
in the forest. It is noted for its choice Fontaine- 
bleau, or chcuselas grapes, which grow in a pretty 
manner ationt the houses. Another viaduct, on 
30 arches, 66 ftot high, leads to 

Moret-BTtr-LQlng (8 mllcs), on the Seine, 
where the Loing falls in, having parts of its 
ancient walls and Castle, built by Charles VII.; and 
an old picturesque Church, built 1166, by Louis 
VII., and dedicated by Beeiet, when- a refugee 
at Sons. The Allies took it, 1814. 

The rail to Nemours, Nevers, and Lyons, by the 
Bourbonnais line, tnrns off here (below;. 
[NenoUFB (17 miles from Fontainebleau), on the 
river and canal du Loing, has a good church, 
and the old Castle ot the Ducsde Nemours, now 
used for a public Library (3,000 volumes), Ac. 
It belonged to G-aston de Foix, before It came 
to the Orleans family. Most of the shares in 
the Lo>iitf CenaJ (the eldest in France, begvu by 



Boute 20.] 



^ HAND-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



'81 



Solly, and finished in 1740) were Ihe property' 
of Loais Philippe and his sister, Mad. Adelaide, 
till confiscated by Napoleon III,, 1862. Popn- 
lation 4,256. Near it is Bignon. where 
Mirabeau was born, 1749. 

Souppes (6 miles), near CAa/tfat* Zanrfon stone 
qunrrics. 

Ferri^res-Fontenay J miles), on River Loing. 
Montargis (6 miles), a sous-prdfecture in de- 
partment Loiret, with 11,600 population, on the 
Orleans Canal, where the Canals of Briare and 
Loing Join it; originated in a royal castle, built 
on a hill (mont), on the site of a Roman c«mp. 
One of its seigneurs married the sister of Yo- 
lande, Emperor of Constantinople. It was 
nearly taken by Warwick, 1427, but relieved 
by Dunois. St. Madeline's large old Church 
was begun by Henri II. The great Castle was 
neariy all pulled down, 1810, One of its fres- 
coes was a painting of the famous Dog of 
Montargis, which, in the presence of Charles V., 
fought and vanquished the murderer of his 
master, Aubrey de Montdidier, who had been 
killed in the Forest of Bondy. P. Manuel, a 
member of the Convention, Girodet Trioson, 
the painter, and Madame Ouyon^ whose religious 
poems were translated by Cowper, were natives. 
Hotels.— !>& la Posic; de France. Rail to 
Orleans ; and to Sens, vid 
Couxtenay (22i miles), the old family seat of 
the Covrtettat/s, on the Clare. 

Kogent-SUr-Vernlsson (ll miles), on a small 
branch of the Loing. About 2^ miles from it is 
the Chateau of Cheneviere, including remains of 
a Roman amphitheatre, made of great lilocks 
of stone. At 4J miles east-south-east of it is 
Chdtillon-sur-Loing,Yrhic\iha9thcRnii\enlCastl6 
where the great Huguenot leader, Admiral 
Colign j/y was born, his mother being sister to 
the Constable Montmorency. After St. Bar-, 
tholomew's day his body was taken to Chan- 
tilly and then to Paris. 

Oien (11 miles), on the Loire, at the old twelve- 
arched stone bridge, is on a gentle slant, at 
the top of which are the old spire Church of St. 
Louis (whera King Jean-sans-Peur was mar- 
ried, 1410), and the Chateau (now Hotel do 



Yille), built or begun iu CharUmagnc's tluiei 



) 



F 



At i mile north-east Is Vibux (or Old) Gikk, 
Where Roman stones, medals, Ac, have been 
found. Glen is connected by a short line with 
Fontonoy (page 85). 

Briare (6 miles), wliere the canal from Montar- 
gis fill Is into the Loire, is on the north bank of 
this river, on the road from Orleans to Kevers 
(see Route 47). Population, 6,684. 

Cosne (19 miles), a sous-prefecture, up the Loire, 
of which it has a beautiful prospect and of 
several iron forges round. Population, 8,672, 
Hotel— T>\\ Grand Serf. 

Sancerre, described on page 216. 

La Charity (is miles), a pretty place of 6,448 
souls, on the Loire, here crossed by a fine bridge. 

Nevers (see Route 45). This is followed by 

Mars, St. Pierre, Vllleneuye-sur-Alller 

(sec Route 45). Then comes 
Moullns (37 miles from Nevers), capital of 
Allier (sec Route 45), 

Bessay, Hauterive, and Varexmes-sur- 

Allier (18 miles from Moullns. Route 46). 
St. Germain- des- Fosses (8 miles), near 

Vichy (see Route 45). St. G^rand-le-Poy 

(4i miles). 

La PaliSSe (7 miles), population, 2904, in the 
valley of the Bbbrc, under an old castle which 
belonged to the Marshall de la Palisse, cele- 
brated in song. 
Roanne (41 miles from St. Germain-des-Foss^fc) 

on the Loire, described Route 24. Thence to 
R6gliy (10 miles), near St. Symphoritn-eu-Lay. 
Tarare (16 mlles), under Mont Tarare, a ridge 
4,500 feet high, pierced by a long tunnel. 
It is a sous-prdfecture (population U',387), of 
department RhOne, on the river Turdiue* 
noted for its fine musUns and silk. Hotel.— 
De I'Europe. 

L'Arbresle (lO miles), the ancient AbraviHa^ 
with a fine Gothic castle, at the junction of th« 
Brevanne and another river. Population, 3,676. 

St. Germain-au-Mont d'Or .8 miles). About 

9 miles further is 
Lyons, described at page 96.] 

St. Mammas (population, 960) is a pmall port 
where the Loing Canal falls into the Seine. »-«' 
to Orleans, by Miiloshorbos (iiage loa;. 



bsadshaw'b illustbaixd 



[Sea^ 



Main Line Contlnned. 
Hontereau-saut-Tonne (H miles), a buffet, 

49i miles from Paris, where the branch rail to 
Troyes turns up the Aube (see Route 62). 
Hotel. — Du Grand Monarque. 
Montereau, on the rirer Seine, where the Yonno 

..joins it, is the site of the Roman Conddte^ under a 
hill, which lias the ch&teau of Surville (t.e., above 
town) on top, commanding a fine view of both 
rivers, their bridges, &c. Napoleon beat the Allies 

.here, 1814. At the church, a tall conspicuous 
building, with a spire, is the suord {fit a steel copy) 
of Jean-sans-Peur, of Burgundy, who was mur- 
dered, 1419, on the old bridge over the Seine, by 
Oltarles the Dauphin, for having killed his father. 
Till the Revolution, they used to show his skull 
with a gash in it. When Francis I. saw it, he 
observed that it seemed to be a very large hole. 
" Yes," said a canon, "it ought to be, for the Eng- 
lish entered France through it," — the murder 
being followed by a civil war, which encouraged 
them to invade the country. There is a large 
modern hospital. 

Population, 7,672, who make good tiles, pottery, 
and porcelain ; the latter work being carried on in 
the old Recollets' Convent. 

Villeneuve-la-Guyard (6i miles). Popula- 
tion, 1,767. Chaumont Chateau, and the tall spire 
church of Chapigny arc in view. 
I'ont-SUr-Yonne (6f miles), at the narrow, 

* windin.,' bridge on the Yonne, at the foot of a hill, 
in a pretty wine country, was a fortified town, till 
the English mined it. Its old church is now a 
forage store. Near Sens, you see St. Martin du 
Tcrtre, on a mound, or chalk hill. 

SENS Oh miles). 
Population, 14,006. 
HoTKLS. — De Paris; de TEcu. 
A sous-prdfecturc, in department Yonne, seat of 
an archdiocese, and the old capital of the Senanes in 
CsBsnr's time, against whom they made a l)old resist- 
ance. It stands in a pleasant spot on the Yonne, 
''near where the Vannc joins; Is well built, and 
watered by little brooks running through the 
streets, and is enclosed by promenades on the site 
oi the ditches, made by Charles Y., outside the old 
;wa Is, which were added on top of those built 
'he RoB(»iHis,.Qn c<H||jises of4w«^ rough Uoncs. 



Some remains of them are yet visible near the 
Porte Dai/^pMae, theonly one left of its ancieut gates, 
which with the walls have been removed since 
1814. Roman roads are found in the neighbour- 
hood, besides an amphitheatre. A council under 
St. Bernard met here, 1140, and condemned the 
works of Aboard ; and here Pope Alexander sought 
refuge, 1163, as did Becket the year after. It was 
besieged by Henry IV., in 1590, and taken 1814. 

St. ]Stienne*s CatJtedral Is a fine structure in the 
early Gothic style, of the 12th century, replacing 
one burnt 970, which was built by St.Savinicn on the 
site of a Pagan temple. The fa9ade, 154 feet wide, 
contains about 90 figures in stone, a triple portal, 
the centre one deeply recessed, with a fine window 
over it, and a rose window and figure of Christ 
over that. The south tower, or Tour de Pierre, 
finished 1535, is composed of five stages, with a 
turret at top, and is 240 feet high; its bells are 
celebrated. The north tower, or Tour de Plomb, is 
only four stages high, and covered with lead at top. 
The transept, doors, and staiued windows are of the 
15thund 16th centuries, by Chambiges. Within, you 
see a large and richly decorated choir; a marble 
mausoleum of Louis XVI.'s father, by Constoa, 
witii figures of Time, Conjugal Love, Religion, &c.; 
the chapel of the Virgin; that of St. Savinien, with 
a bastrelief of his martyrdom; the beautiful bas- 
relief, nearly fifty feet long, round Chancellor Du- 
praVt tomb, containing about 150 figures; and the 
primate's throne. There are eighteen chapels 
round the building. In the Treasury they show 
BeekeVs mitre and other parts of his dress, besides 
various relics, and portraits of prelates. 

TIic chapel of the Hotel Dieu deserves notice for 
its vaults, Ac, now used as a corn hall. That of 
St. Savinien, the oldest here, has been badly 
restored. The Officialiie', or bishop's court(r estored), 
of the 15th century, is worth notice, for its dun- 
geons, salle du tribunal and Renaissance door (1567). 
At the Bdtel de Ville, which is in the Renaissance 
style, is the Museum, containing the original MS. 
of the Office des Fous, a. festival like that of the boy- 
bishop, held here till the 16th century. Here are 
also some inscriptions and bas-reliefs from the old 
Roman walls. Public Library of 12,000 volumes, 
in the College, or Lyc<5e. There are a priests* 
icuiuary; a tmun^ry ll St. Cglnmbf'? (tUV©^{ (\ 



Bottte ^0.] 



HAND-BOOK TO VBANOB^ 



H 



salle de spectacle, on the esplanade; a bronze 
statue of Th^nard, the chemist, a native; baths, 
an orphan house, Ac. No. 102, in Rue Dauphin^, is 
an ancient timbered house^ -with a carved genealogy 
of Jesus Christ on the face of it. M. Chaulay, a 
notary here, is in possession of a painting on wood, 
of Jean Cousin^ an artist born about 1500, at Coney 
(close by), to whom a broken stained window in 
the cathedral is attributed. 

Outside the town is Motte du Clar (a Gallic 
mound); and the old Chateau de Fleurigny. The 
hermitage of St. Bond stands on a hill, 328 feet 
above the river, near the station. 

Razors and other steel goods are made, besides 
leather, Jtc. 

Here the outcrState mil from Chalons to Orleans, 
«fcc., intersects. It comes in from Troyes (Route 62) 

via EsUssac, Vulalnes, VUlenettve-i'Arclie- 

Vdque, Pont-SUr-Vanne, and other stations; 
and from Sens passes on via Courtenay (p. SIX 

Cli4teaurenard, Montargis (page 81), Belle- 
garde, Vltry-aux-LOgefl, Orleans, Chartres, 
Dreux, and Ronen, as part of the Outer Circle 
round Paris. 
[RiGKT DE FfiBON, near Vulaines station (above), 
up the Vunnc, is remarkable for a Church 
with a fine window, stained by Cousin, with 
the genealogy of Christ, and the life of St. 
Martin. Cardinal de Berulles was a native; he 
takes his name from a village to the south- 
east, which has one of the best Churches in the 
department.] 
Past ^tigny Church, and its old Chftteau, in 
Which Catherine de Medicis met the Due d' Alen9on 
to take measures against the Huguenots, 1576. 
Then 

VUleneuve-suT-Yonne (8f miles), or viiie- 

ncuve-le-Roi, a pretty place on the Yonoe, built by 
Lonls VII. In 1170, along with the old bridge, 700 
feet long, replaced by one of stone, In 1861. Its 
royal eh&teau was destroyed 1811, but Louis the 
Fat's Tower, 87 feet high, still remains. There are 
also two Gothic gates of the ISth ccntuiy, and a 
church partly as old, and 233 feet long, with a 
Rcmiissancc front, and a tall square tower. Popu- 
lation, 5,117. 

St. JuUen-dU-Saolt (5 miles), on the river, 
o|'pQsi(o vmoyAUiei:, wjiicb is joined to it b^ ^ 



suspension bridge. Population, 1,816. It contains 
an old church and ancient houses. At C^sy (3 
miles) is a suspension bridge, with remains of old 
fortifications. 

Joigny (4 miles), a sous-prdfecture, on the side 
of a chalk hill, at the bridge on the Yonue, takes 
name from Flavius Jovinus, its Roman founder. It 
is steep in some parts, but has good points of view, 
and a long quay on the river. The HOlel Dieu was 
built by Jeanne de Yalois; and the half-ruined 
chftteau, by Cardinal Gondi, of the 15th century, 
Includes St. Jean's Church, on the hill. The law- 
court (tribunal) is placed in<S«'. Andres old priory 
Chapel. St. Thibault's stands among vineyards. 
Population, 6,218. 

Good vin ordinaire, wine casks, Ac, are produced 
here. Coaches to Aillant, St. Aubin, &c. 

From Joigny along the Yonne, we pass by n 
bridge on five ai-ches, to 

LarOChe (5f miles), where the Burgundy 
canal and the river Armagnac join, and the branch 
line to Auxerre, Clamecy, and Nevers turns oflF. 
[To AuxEKRE, trains runin half-an-hour; dis- 
tance, 12 miles. Cross the Arman9on and 
Serein, by six-arch bridges, to 

Chemllly (4^ miles). Rail to Pontigny (page 
85), Hdry, Seignelay, Cliablis, and Laroche. 
CJlLabllS, on the Serain, is noted for its white 
wine. A Roman road ran past here to 
Auxerre. 

Moniteau (3| miles), close to a suspension 
"bridge, on the Yonne. At 3f miles beyond, is 

AUXERRE, 109 miles from Paris. 

POPULATIOK , 18,036. 

Hotels. — De la Fontaine; de TEp^e^ 

Capital of department Yonne, seat of a diocese, 
and an ancient town, on a healthy slope, in 
the Burgundy wine country, above the River 
Yonne. It wag called Autistiodurum when 
Csesar took it, ad. 521, and had a bishop as 
early as 273. It was pillaged by the English, 

• during the captivity of one of its counts, who 
had accompanied Jolin of Frat ce to England, 
after the battle of Poictiers. The river itself 
makes a port for the conveyance of produce, 
opposite an island covered with trees and mills. 
Tbfi Btrfi^U Afe in geu«v&l f^arro^Y* T|ie 



r 



u 



BlkAD8Hl.W'8 ILLUflTSATBD 



[See 3. 



food proipeels from the boulevards; on the 
Promenade de I' Arqucbnse aeaf/7«/^atri8held 
monthljr. 

The fine Cathedral dedicated to St. ^tienne (Ste- 
phen}, on the hill, built bctwrcn I03u and 1543, 
is 328 feet long, 111 feet high to the rault, with 
a spire tower (the last bailt) 230 feet l:!gh. It 
is chiefly in the flamboyant (Tudor) style, and 
much admired for its regularity, its fine portal 
of the 1 6th century, columns, figures, &c., and 
especially the large number of richly stained 
Windotta. I'he oldest part is the Romanesque 
Crypt, of the 11th century, which deserves 
notice. The altar is simple bnt grand, and 
has near it figures of the patron Saint, of 
Bishop Amyot, the translator of Plutarch, and 
Bishop Colbert, brother of the minister. 8t. 
Evaebius bean marks of the Romanesque style, 
having a spire tower of the 12th century. 
Another ehnrcbf St. Pierre^ or St. P^re, origin- 
ally founded in the 8th century, was rebuilt in 
the Renaissance style* and has a finely carved 
portal. St. Germain's Abttey (now part of the 
Hdtel de Ville) covered the relics of above sixty 
saints, including the one commemorated by the 
Parisian church of St. Germain TAuxerrois, 
and it holds the tombs of the oTd counts. The 
crypts of the 9th century, and the Romnnesque 
tower of the llth century, with a choir,- &;c., 
are all that remain of its church. 
The Prefect's H6tel was the bishop's palace. Its 
Romanesque gallery, or arcade, of the 12th 
century, is 72 feet long. Here Napoleon re- 
ceived Key in 1815, styling him the "bravest 
of the brave.'* At the Bibliothiqr.e, or public 
library, are 40,000 vulnmes, 200 MSS., and 
Baron Dcnou's collection of medals, kc. The 
Clock Tover^ or Tour Galllarde, on a gate near 
the old house of the dukes of Burgundy, was 
erected 1488, and marks solar and mean time, 
with the changes of the moon. The spire of 
open ironwoik Is a modem addition since the 
fire of 1826. There are also a large foundry, 
hospital, college, theatre, baths, barracks, a 
departmental lunatic asylum, and a Botanic 
garden, In which stands the statue of J. J. 
Fourier, once Secretary of the Academy, and 
-*W«. Another native was ManhalDavoust, 



to whom there is a statao. Trade in wine, as 
petit vin d'Auxerre (used to flavoar Burgundy), 
Chdbli* (white), C^te de la CMnetU and C^e dg 
la ifegriiu (both red); timber for casks: and a 
few woollens. 

[At 19 miles south-west on the line from Auxcrre 
to Glen, is 

St. Sauveur, in the beautiful country of Puisaye, 
havUig a Ch&teau^ an ancient tower, and the 
ruins of Uoutier Abbey.— At 7i miles further to 
the west, towards the Loire, stands the fine 
ChAteau of St. Fargeau^ in a great park ; founded 
as far back as i^O, and belonging to the Mar- 
quis de Boisgelin. Station, St. Far^eau.] 

Cravant, the fourth station from Anxerre (U 
miles). Here a branch line, opened 1875, 
towards Dijon, goes to Vermenton, Arcy-sur- 
Cure, Sermizelles (for Vtfzelay), and Avallon, 
as under* — 

Yermenton, in a pretty part of the Cure, under 
a hill, has an old Church, with a recessed porch. 

At Arcy-snr-Oare are some noted Caves, which 
include several chambers, the largest being 
above 1,200 feet. They are visited in dry 
weather, aboot August or September. 

y^selay hasthe very ancient Madeleine Church, 
which belonged to an abbey founded in the 9th 
century, where St. Bernard preached a crusade 
before Louis YIL, in 1145. T. Bega, the re- 
former, was a native. 

AvallOlIt a jons-pr^fecture of department Tonne, 
in a charming v-iUey on the Cousin, was the 
Roman Aballo, and had a castle of the dukes 
of Burgundy. Petit Cours, the site of a Jtoman 
camp. It stands on blue limestone. Pop. 6,076. 
The church has a curious porch. From Aval- 
Ion, the line is continued to AutUl (page 91 X 
55 miles. Another line runs from Avallon to 
Les Laumes (page 87), on the main line from 
Paris to D^on, via MalSOXX Dieu, OoDIon, 
Epoisses (famous for Its cheese). Semiir 
(page 86X and PoiOlleiiay. 
From Cravant (above) through Mallly-la-Ville 
and ChAIet Ccnsoir to 

OoulangeS-SUr-Toime (17 miles), followed by 
Clamecy (5 miles), a sous-prdfecture in depart- 
ment Nib vre, of 5,518 inhabitants, on the Yonne 
and Bcovront with a good trade in wood, ohar- 



Route 2|>.] 



HAKD'BOOK TO yBAKCH.' 



a^ 



coal, Ac, and some srood churches. Nc«r it 
are the Villette paper factories. 
The rail from Clamecy to Nerers, 2f miles, join- 
ing Auxerre to the Bourbonnals Hue, passes 

Varzy, Arzembouy, Pr^meiy, Poiscux, 

and Urzy. 
From Clnmecy a line goesnptbe YonnetoTannay, 
Corblgny, Vandenessc (for St. HOXlOr6, with 
an ^tablissement thermal and alkaline springs) 

to Cercy-la-Tour (page 92). 

From Clamecy a branch to Trigubres (on the 

Sens-Montargis line) runs past Fontenoy (line 

to Gien, page 81) and Toucy. 
ToucT on the Onane, vr&s ihe place where Hugh 

Capet's brother, St. H^ribert, built a ch&teau, 

and died 995. 

Hain Line ContixLued. 

Returning to La Roche, the line follows the 
Arman^on to 

Brlenon (SJ miles), a port, with a carrying trade 
lu wood. Population, 2,541. Cross the Arman^on, 
by a viaduct on 9 arches, to 

St Florentill (5^ miles), on the Arman^on, 
where the Armance joins it, and where the Canal 
de Bourgogne turns off by an aqueduct over the 
latter. It is an old town, in a pleasant spot, with 
good prospects, especially from the hill near some 
Priory ruins, after which it was christened '^ Mont 
Armance," during the Revolution. One of its 
Counts (created Due de la Vrillibre) was a favourite 
of Louis XV. The old church of St. Sepulchre was 
begun 1376, on the site of a rural chftteau, and. has 
some stained glass, with a good choir. It is a 
conspicuous object, to which Xt steps lead from the 
mtreot below. 

[Rail to Troycs (page 253), 85 nules by Ervy, 
Auxon,- Jeugny, Ac. 

Ebvt (12 miles east-north-east), on a rocky 
hcightabove the Armance, indepartment Aube, 
commanding a fine view around, has sojue old 
houses and a porte, or gate^ of its ancient walls.] 

FlOgny (TJ miles), near the Arman9on, which 
baa a Roman camp on its banks, and is crossed by a 
SMspeosion bridge. The church is aucieut ; there 
U a modern Ch&teau. , , . 

. f At PoxTioNT, 6 milea (on the line from 
, Cbeoxllly t<r Lambe) oq the Serfiio, Is the^ne 



Gothic Church oi A Ctstoreiau abbey (founded' 
1114), 810 feet long, 71 wide, and 67 high. 

The line passes the old church of Danncmoine, 
and that of ijfiplneuil in the midst of vineyards. 

Tonnerre (8 miles), 123 miles from Paris. 

HoteU.^'DM Lion d'Or; des Courriers. 

Population, 4,784. A sous-prdfecture, in a fertile 
wine country, on a rocky hill over the Armanpon, x 
belonging to the Marquis de Louvois, whi>se old . 
Ckdteau was the seat of Margaret of Sicily, St. 
Louis' sister-in-law, and founder of the rich Hospital 
here, for the sick, now forming the Chapel to the- 
new building, raised in 184i<. It has on its face a . 
large gnomon or dial, placed there, 1786, by. 
Ferouillaet, a monk of St. Nicholas' old abbey, 
which was founded 980. Notice the effigies of 
Margaret, with those (by Girardou) of Louvois, 
Louis XVI.'s war minister, and eight stone figures^ 
in the calvary. 

Parts of the town walls remain. The best pro- 
menade is the pa* is. In Faubourg Bourberean, a • 
spring called Fosse Dionne falls into a basin, 42 feet 
diameter, used by the washerwomen. St. Pierre's  
Church, near the hospital, on a steep rock, which, 
overlooks the town, has a Romanesque front and 
Gothic clock-tower. Notice the old restored' 
Church of Notre Dame. Two pretty Cemetrles. > 
In Rue de I'Hdpi'al is the curious old H6tel d'Uz^sJ 
At the Hdtel de Vilie is a portrait of Marshal 
Davoust. The theatre was an Ursuline convent. 
There is a large horse market (march^-aux- 
chevanx) held here. The Canul de Bourgognc is 
a pleasant walk, bordered by trees. 

It was sacked by the English, 1359, and occupied 
by the Gennans in 1871. The Chevalier d'Eon 
was a native ; his house is near the station. 

Trade in white and red wine, force-meats (andouil- 
Icttes), snails, stone for sculpture, ftc. 

Tanlay (S miles) has. in its ChurcJi, an altar 
brought rrom St. Martin's old abbey ; but is ipottt 
remarkable for the fine Chateau of the Marquis de 
Tanlay, one of the best preserved in this pari of 
France, and a good specimen of Um! Jienaiss^net 
stple, which succeeded tlie Gothic. It was bc^n 
I (on the site of an earlier) 1559, by Fran^oi^ de 
i Ooligny, brother of the Admiral who was killed on St 



r 



8» 



fiSAI>8HAW*S ILLUSTRATSD 



{Sec. 9« 



I^ArtIioloinew*fl day; andfinislicd 1642, fh)m designs 
"by Le Muet, having cost abont four million francs. 
It forms a high-roofed quadrangle, with low, round, 
domed towers at ^ach end of the open side, and a 
gateway in the middle. In the interior is a large 
Pietttre Gallery, with frescoes of the leaders of 
Coligny*s day; also a highly decorated chapel; 
While the groxmds comprise gardens, avenues, a 
eanal, chftteau d'ean (water works), an ancient 
lime tr«e in the park, the ruins of Quincy Abbey, <fec. 
Th6 line passes a tunnel of 682 yards, to 

XezinneB (3f miles), a street of houses, on the 
Roman way to Sens. Stone quarried here. Cross 
the Arman^on and the canal, the former by a hand- 
some bridge of five arches ; then comes the tunnel 
of Pacy, 1,094 yards long, and its quarries, followed 
by another bridge over the Arman^on. 

Ancy-le-Franc (5 miles), among forests and 
forges, is a bustling port on the Arman^on. Here is 
a fine Chdleau, bequeathed by the late Marquis de 
Lonvols to M. de la Balle, and built between 1555 
and 1622, from the designs of Primatlccio—a square 
pile, with pavilions at each comer, one of which is 
a- chapel, decorated with frescoes from the Pastor 
Fido^ by Niccolo del Abbate. 

Nuits-80U8-RaTi^r6B (3f mUes) has a gate 

left of its old fortifications. At Ravi^res are an old 

church and ohAteau^ and the ruins of BocJ^fort 

CiMtf«, on a scarped roclE. 

[Branch line to Avallon (page 84), vU L'lsle- 

anr-Serein and L'Isle-Angely, 25i miles, and 

another branch vid BennOYOy, &c., to 

Cll&tiUon-Bar-Seine (21 miles), where it 

meets a branch from Troyes, vid Bax-BUr- 

- Seine (Route 62). A continuation from 

eh&tiUon to Chaumont is open (see page 254). 

A line from Ch&tillon to Is-sur-Tille and Dijon. 

CbAtillOIl-Bar-SeUie, a sous-prefecture of 5,127 

population (department Cote d'Or), in a hilly 

but healthy spot on the Seine, where the little 

Doidx joins. It was one of the first seats of 

the Dukes of Burgundy, and, in 1814, was 

noted for the cor^erenee between Napoleon and 

the Allies. Among the btdldings are, the Hdtel 

de Yille, in the old Benedictine convent; St. 

Kicholas' church, of the 12th century; a chapel 

which belonged to the ducal castle; a library 

% A college, hospital, Ac, and 



ft largo chftiean: (at Chaumont), built by 
Mars?ial Marmont, who was bom here. A 
Roman way to Auxerre maybe noticed. Trade 
in iron, wood, wool, paper, &c. Hotels. — De la 
Poste; de la Cote d'Or.] 

Als7-Bur-Arxnan9on (5 miles), or AiBy-sous- 
ROUgexnont, the latter being a village in depart- 
ment cote d'Or, from which there is a fine view of 
a Roman tower, and the valleys of the Arman^on 
and Brenne. The country here becomes more hilly 
and wooded. Leave the Arman9on, with the village 
of Buff on (derived from his fons) in view, for 

Montbard (6 miles), a pretty spot on the Brenne, 
in department Cote d*Or, the birth-place of Buffsn 
and Daubenton. The Chdteau of the former stands 
among gardens and avenues, on the hill, at the top 
of which are the walls of the great naturalist's j^ttJy, 
called the Tower of St. Louis. There is a bronze 
statue to him, by Dumont. There is also a square 
donjon Tower of the old castle of the dukes of 
Burgundy. Population, 2,509. 

In the neighbourhood are the remains of Montfort 
Castle, which belonged to the Princes of Orange, 
before the Revolution; and of Fontenay Abbey, the 
church of which, 240 feet long, was built by an 
Englishman, Everard, Bishop of Norwich. Road 
to Semur, Saulieu, Avallon, ^poisses, Rouvray, Ac, 
which are also accessible by rail. 
[Semur (ll miles south), a railway station (see 
page 84), or Semur-en-Auxois, on a picturesque 
granite rock, over the Arman9on (crossed by 
a high one-arched bridge, and another bridge), 
is a sou8-pr€fecture of 3,908 souls, and was the 
old fortified capital of the Auxois district in' 
Burgundy, to which Henry IV., in the troubles 
of the League, 1490, transferred the Dijon 
parliament. 
It is divided into three parts, the Bourg, the 
Donjon, and the Chateau. That which gives 
name to the last is now a barrack; and the 
four great towers of the Donjon are close to the 
bridge. Notre Dame Cfiureh, built 1065, by 
Robert I., 218 feet long, has a triple portal be- 
tween square towers in the front, an ancient 
pulpit, and bas-reliefs over the west porch, 
representing the death of the founder's pre- 
decessor, Dalmace, whom, they say, hepoisoned. 
MS. of the lltb century at the Libnry, 



in>ute 20.] 



&AXD-BO0K TO l^BANCS* 



S7 



which contains 15,000 volumes. There are 
also a college, theatre, new abattoir, Ao. 

Salmasius was a native ; hi4 defence of Charles I. 
produced Milton's **D^enHo propopulo Angli- 
eano^ Several falls of the river are near, and 
on Mont Amxoxs is a Roman camp. 

Druggets and coarse woollens are made ; trade 
in wine, cattle, corn, fruit, honey, &c* 

Uotel—H^ la Cdte d'Or. Rail to 

Saulisu (18 miles south-aonth-west of this) is an 
old walled-up place, among woods and lakes, 
having two ancient churches, with traces of a 
Roman temple, and of a way to Autnn. Yan^n 
was bom at St. Leger-de-Foucheroise, near this. 

ChAtbau Chinon (13 miles sonth of this, 5| miles 
from Cercy-la- Tour Station, p. 92), a small sous- 
prefecture, 1,900 feet above sea, in the midst of 
woodland, near the source of the Yonne. The 
air la sharp and cold. Population, 2,673.] 

Main Line Continaed. 

From Montbard, the line crosses the canal and 
the Brenne (on a bridge of four arches) . Fins- lex- 
Montbard is opposite the site of the camp of Ver- 
eingetorix. Past Grignon Ghftteau, to 

Les Laumes (8 miles), on a plain between the 
Brenne and the Oze, near Alise 8te. Reine, the 
Alesia of Cttsar, which Vercingetorix held against 
him for seven good months. Here Is Millet's statue 
of Vercingetorix, of beaten copper, about 38 feet 
high. It stands on the slope of MontAuxois, a ridge 
3,187 yards long, and 475 yards high, isolated on 
three sides. Ste. Reine's chapel and spring are 
much visited in September. The rail from Avallon 
and Crarant (page 84) comes in here. Branch line 
to Epinact through Yitteaux and Amay-le-Duc, 
page 91. 
[ViTTBAUX (12 miles south), a pretty little place 
on the Brenne, among vineyards, rocks, and 
woods, with parts of an old ch&teau, razed 
1638. Woollens are made, and it is noted for 
Its prunes, &c.] 
We next pass Mont Pevenel, the old chAteau of 
Tbenissey, Boox-sona-Salmaise, at the month of a 
combe, under a hill, 1,640 feet high, and the old 
tower and walls of Salmalse. 
Daxoey (fi miles). Correspondance to 
(FLAyioHT (« miles), population, 1,068, on a 
■carped and almost inaccessible rode, pre- 



serves its old watts and gates, houses, an in- 
teresting church, with a Dominican priory, 
established by Abbd Lacordalre, and an older 
Oarmelite convent, on the hill. 
The Chdteau de Bussy-Rahutin^ belonging to 
Comtc de Sarcus, and first founded in tho 12th 
century, deserves a visit for its coVection of 
paintings. It forms three sides of a square, 
with a donjon, chapel, Ac, and belonged to 
Mad. de Sevignd's cousin, Roger de Rabutin, 
who wrote ^^Histoire Amoureuse dis GauleSy* 
in which she with others was satirised.] 

Verrey*80U8-Salmai8e (8 miios). The cha« 

teau is used for a magnanei'ie, or nursery for 
silkworms. We here approach tlie summit of the 
Cdte d'Or ridge, which divides the sources of the 
Seine, Arman^on, &c., on the north, from the 
streams which flow to the Loire and Rhdne. Thnt 
part l)etweenBlaisy-Ba8 and Malain stations should 
be traversed on foot, for the view it aflfords over 
Burtnmdy and Tranche Comtd, and of the Jura, 
chain. A long cutting precedes 

BlalBy-Bas iH miles), which, with Rlaisy-ffaut, 
whose picturesque old castle appears on the heights, 
is a small village, remarkable for its Tunnel, opened* 
1849, after Z\ years' labour, as many as 2,500 men 
being sometimes employed by the contractor, M.^ 
Debains. Its length is 4,100 metres (13,452 feet, or 
2i miles), and it runs through a mountain, 1,940 
feet above tho sea, or C13 feet above tlio railway, 
which here attains its highest level. One of tlie 
twenty-one shafts is 656 feet deep. Though tho 
tunnels of Mont Cenis, Mauvage (on the Rhine and 
Marne Canal), and La Nerthe (on the Avignon 
and Marseilles line), and others exceed this 
length, it once ranked as one of the greatest 
works of the kind in Europe. The cost was above 
£400,000. The lino now passes into the basin of 
the Rhdne. 

Coaches from the station to Sombcmon, an 
old castle of the dukes of Burgundy, and Saiut- 
Seine. 

[St. Ssins, or Sbinb l'Abbats (8} miles north- 
east). In a deep valley among the hills, has a 
good Church of tho 16th century, which be- 
longed to a Benedictine abbey, founded 684, 
by Seyne, son of Comte de Mtfmont. Among 
I the remains stands Dr. Ouettet's Water-Curt^ 



8J3t 



BRADSHA^'S ILLtrBTBATBI}> 



[See. Sr 



ostabUshod 18 16. About 6 miles north-west is 
the Source of the Seine^ in a wood ; and near 
that,uf the/(rffon.] 

The line comes out of Blaisy-B.is tunnel at a 
decline of 40 feet below the culminating point at 
its entrance, and descends through the rolling hills 
and valleys (called combes, as in Devonshire) 
towards Dijun, by a succession of tunnels and 
viaducts. 

Leaving the cutting under the cliffs of Baulme- 
la-Roche, it passes over a viaduct 623 feet long, 84 
feet high, on 12 arches; then a tunnel of 1,076 feet to 

Ualaln (> miles) and its old chAtcau, near 
Signal-de-Malaiii, a mountain 1,994 feet high. The 
nuts lierc are noted, and vines begin to appear. At 
ChcUeau cTUrcy, Lamartino wrote his Meditations. 
It was the property of his grandfatlier and uncle. 

Pass L^o Viaduct, 525 feet long, 75 high, on 

eleven arches, with a hill in view 1,633 feet above 

sea level; then, deep cuttings, and a corresponding 

embankment 82 feet high, to the Combe de Fain, 

traversed by a viaduct of 721 feet, on a double row 

of arches (18 over 7) 144 feet high. A deep curve 

brings us into the valley of the Ouche, with distant 

prospects of Mont Afriqne, and other points of the 

Cdte d'Or mountains; the pilgrim chapel of 

Notre Dame de ri^tang is passed. Then, Combe 

Fouchkres viaduct on five arches, 59 feet high; a 

tunnel; Combe 15ouchard viaduct, 492 feet long, 

125 feet high, on another double row of arches (11 

over 7); and another tunnel. Matoye viaduct, 

295 feet long, 73 high, on five arches, is succeeded 

by that across Combo Neuvon, 774 feet long, 73 feet 

high, on 15 arches. The Combe of Champ-Moron 

contains a model farm in the ruins of a priory. 

Velars (6 mlUs). Here are paper mills, blast 
furnaces, nail and wire factories. 

Flombi^reS (J^ mllos), in a pleasant hollow on 
the Oucho and the Canal, has an old church and 
Priests' somhiary. Its walnuts and cherries arc 
celebrated. The rocks, which border the river for 
the next 2| miles, are tr<tversed by deep cuttings, 
viaducts, and four short tunnels; and the terminus 
comman Is a good view of the Cdte d*Or monn 
tains, anj tlio spires aud towers oi the old city of 



DIJON; 

A Buffet. 195| milesf rom Paris, 122| from Lyons 
The embarcad^rc, near the Botanic Qardcns and 
Porte G uillaume, was opened by Napoleon III., 1871 

POPOLATION, 65,428. 

Hotels.— Hotel de la Cloche, very clean and 
well ordered, near the Protestant Church. 

Hotel du Jura, near the railway station. 

Hotel de Bourgogne is well situated, and com- 
mands a splendid view ; du Nord. 

French Protestant Service at the Ducal Chapel, 
where there is good sculpture. 

/Janier*.— Dunoyer and Co.; Gulot and Co. 

Post Office.— At Hotel de Ville. 

I®" Objects of Notice.— Cathedral— Churches 
of Notre Dame, St. Michael, Ac— Hdtcl de Vlllo— 
Chateau- Palais de Justice— Theatre— Bossua's 
house— Statue of St. Bernard. 

A fine old town, the capital of department Cdte 
d'Or (formerly of Burgundy)^ seat of a bishopric, 
an university (or college), a military division, Ac., 
and centre of the Burgundy wine district; in a rich' 
plain on tho Ouche, where the Suzon joins it, about 
800 feet above sea level, near Mont Afrlque and 
tho Cdte d'Or hills. This plain stretches to the 
Jura range, of which there is a view in clear 
weather. The Suzon, formerly a torrent, is now 
dry half of the year. 

The Gtermans captured it October, 1870; and 
here, 21st January, 1871, being surprised in a 
fog, by Menotti Garibaldi, they lost a flag, after 
hundreds of its defenders ^ere killed. 

Dijon was the Roman Dibio, and after being a 
separate lordship, came to tho dukes of Burgundy, 
who reigned here (with some interruptions) from 
about 1030 to the death of Charles the Bold, 1477, 
when Louis XI. took possession. It was nearly 
taken in a sioge by the Swiss, 1518. 

Tlic houses are of stone, seldom more than two 
storeys high. There are five gates in the old walls, 
whicli are now turned into handsome public walks, 
among which are the Marroniers, near the Gdil- 
laume Gate (rebuilt as an arch, 1788, on the Paris 
road); the Botanic Garden (whore there is an enor- 
mous poplar, 25 feet round, planted 1550); and the 
Parc^ laid out by Le Ndtre, near the Ouche. Near 
tho Chftteau Is Jouffroy's bronze Stattte of 8L Ber- 
Hordt born at Fontaine-lez-Dijon, 1091. 



HAND-BOOK TO FRAKCS. 



Konte 20.] 

St.B^igne's Cathedrul is A Qothic pile of the 13th 
century, 227 feet long, by 93 wmIc, and 89 high, 
having a good wooden fpire of 828 feet, erected 
1742. Over the porial (which is of the 10th cen- 
tury) is carved the Martyrdom of Stephen, by 
Bouchardou. Within arc the statues of St. Joseph, 
St. Joh !i the Baptist, and St. Augustine, by the same 
artist ; St. Thomas (and busts of other apostles), 
St. Mddard, &c., by Dubois ; the tomb of VladisLas 
(1388), King of Poland; and those o^ Philippe le 
Hardf, and his son, Jenn-s:.ns-Peur, whose bodies 
were found in good preservation, 1841. The relics 
of Jean's daughter, Anne of Burgundy (and duchess 
of Bedford), wore added in 1853. The crypt is cf 
the 10th century. 

' The old cathedral church of Notre Dame^ built 
between 1252 and 1334, is 151 feet long, and is to be 
restored. It has a curious west front, almost square, 
composed of a plain triple portal below, and, above, 
two rows of delicate columns, 16 in each row, from 
which the statues have been torn away. There are 
also a spire, a well-balanced roof, and a group of the 
Assumption, by Dubois. Tlie ancient clock, made 
by Jacques Mard, a Dutchman, was given by 
Philippe le llardi, in 1382: it is placed in a spire 
tower In the west front, the only tower completed. 
From this Dutch machinist many French clocks are 
called *' jacqnemards.** St. Michael's church, of the 
15th century, is a handsome mixture of Gothic and 
Italian (or Renaissance) styles, about 200 feet long, 
with a rich-looking triple portal, by H. Sambin. 
i^t. Anne's^ at the orphan's hospital, has a dome, 
52 feet across. 

Before the Revolution, Dijon possessed 33 churches 
and chapels, most of which have been removed or 
secularised. St. Stephen's (the most ancient) is the 
corn market ; the gate of its abbey rcmanis. The 
Carmelite Church is a military prison, and the Con- 
Tent a barrack. St. Phi'iberc'Sy opposite ti>e bishop's 
palace (a modem pile), with its stone clock-tower, 
is a forage store. The nave of St. John's^ where 
Bossuet used to preach, and sometime used as a 
market, is now restored as a church. St. Nicholas's 
Romanesque tower is a belfiy. Tlie church of St. 
Pierre is modern (1858), in the Gothic style of the 
13th century, by M. Lassus. 

: The Po/atj des Etats, or UCtel vte ViUe, in Place 
d'Armes, which belonged to the. dukes, and was 



89 



afterwards used by tho pfov!ncIal States, hfts been 
new fronted, with a portico, Ac, so that there is little 
that is ancient about it. What remains of the old 
palace are the great squa re Touer (now the Obse: va- 
tory), 152 feet high, finished by Charles tho Bold; 
tho Tour do Bar, in which King Rend was shut up; 
tlie guard room, the kitchen, and a carved mantel- 
piece, 30 feet high. Charles the Bold, Jean-sans- 
Peur, and others, were born here. Here arp a- 
cabinet of natural history; and a Museum, whlclt 
inclades I ^000 pictures of various scliools, pieces of 
sculpture, tho cup of St. Bernard, and the fine 
ejigies of Dukes Philippe le Bon, and Jean, which, 
before tbe Revolution, stood in the Chartreuse con* 
vent (on the Semur road), now partly converted 
into a lunatic asylum. The Trimdet Collection of. 
rare paintings, enamels, china, stained glass, 
jewellery, «fec., was bequeathed 1880. 

Near Porte Guillaume are remnants of the walls 
of the oil Chdleau, built 147S-1512, repaired by 
Henry IV. ; afterwards used as a prison for Mira- 
beau, Toussaint TOuverture, &C., and now occu- 
pied by the gendarmerie. 

Tlie Pr4fecture, built 1750, by Lenoir, and Palatt 
de Justice^ are large buildings ; the latter begun 
by Louis XL, and completed in tlie Renaissance 
style, was the seat of the Burgundy parliament. 
The Theatre^ In Place St. Eticnne, is also a large 
building, being 200 feet by 70, with a portico of 
eight pillars. Here are also a Public Library of 
78,000 volumes (besides 500 MSd. and 84,000 
medals) and the archives of the duchy. The public 
BcUhs are in Place d*Annc8. ' 

The l^cole de Droit is in the old Jesuits* College. 
Notice the Maisons Milsand and Richard^ in Rue 
des Forges; Hdlel Vogue^ behind Notre Dame, a 
renaissance house, belongs to Marquis Vogud; and 
some other old houses. There are, besides, a general 
hospital (containing Dubois's *' Chariiy '), founded 
1206; lunatic asylum in tho Chartreuse; cavalry 
barracks, a college, school of arts, and botanic 
garden. 

JoMu«/ (Bishop of Meanx), Crdbillon, Piron, Mad. 
Ancelot, the Duo do Ba^sano (Maret), Admiral 
Roussin, Marshal Vaillant ^soii of a poor man) are 
among the natives of Dijon. BouueCs House, Is No. 
10, Place St. Jean ; Crdbillon's, No. 83, Rue Porte 
d'Ouchc; Dubois, the sculptor's. No.' 39, Rue Be^ 



90 



BRADSHAW'S ILLUSTSASID 



{Seed*. 



bbey; the houte of Biiffim*B fumj. No. U, Bae 
Baffon; and Prndhon**, No. 23, Bos Pnulhon. 

Trade in wine (Chambertin, Beamic, Yougeot, 
Bejn^ler, Ac.), gnUn, wool, leather, Tinegar, good 
jooatard, Ac ; a few woollens, cottons, and silka 
are made. It is famoos for gingerbread and its eon- 
MtirudfipiaeviaetU (berbeny). 

A line, M miles long, to BoiilV (page 138), mns 
]NUt a nnmber of small places to LotllUUlS 
(page 93), Joining at St. Amonr the line from 
Besancon to Lyons. 

Besides the smooth hills and monntains of the 
Cdte d*Or ronnd Dijon, Exeunions may be made to 
Fontaine, 2 miles from Porte Gaillaume, the birth- 
place of St. Bernard; and Talant (close to it), the 
Aijc Talentina^ where the Does de Bonrgogne had 
a fortress. 

From DIJon, the main line crosses the Oache, and 
Burgundy canal, with the brandt line to Ddle, Sec , on 
the east, and approaches the Burgundf Wine district, 
which extends orer about 70,000 acres. The best 
soil is found about half-way up the slopes, f^om 
790 to 1,050 feet above sea level. Two classes are 
distinguished— those of C<0<e de Nuift, for richness 
of colour and body, and the (Uile de Beaune^ for 
delicacy and bouquet At ChendWt which the line 
passes, are the clo$ (enclosures) or vineyards of Clot 
du Roi and Chapiire, which were specially reserved 
for the ducal table and the canons of Autun. In 
the neighbourhood of Fixln (known by its church 
tower of the 14th century) are the vineyards of 
Perrikre, Chapitre, ArveteU, Tremble, Eekeeeaux,and 
Cioe yapoleon — the last taking name from a bronze 
itatue to the emperor, by Rude, erected 1846, by 
M. Noisot, who accompanied him to Elba. Broehon 
and CU>$ de CribOUm (where that writer held 
property) are also of first quality. 

Gevrer-Ohambertln (6| miles), at the en- 
trance of the picturesque Combe de Lavaux, is 
dlTided into Les Baraques («.«., huts), Rue Basse 
and Rue Haute ; and oontahu a church of the 13th 
century, with a tower of the same age, built by the 
abbots of Cluny. Population, 1,800. Rue Basse 
belonised to the family of Chambertin^ the first culti- 
Tstor of the famous wine of that name, doe de Bkte 
stands almost as high In character. 
*>*>•<» vineyards of CIm de TarU de Laroehe^ Morey, 
\ Ac, uonezt paaied. LaOxognothill 



is formed of corions-ihaped roeli. Mtuignf/ is 
another excellent growth. 

▼ongMi (3{ mHea), on the Vonge, where the 
finest Burgundy is produced, at the CUn de Vougeoi, 
a field of 125 acres, vrtiich belonged to Ctteaux 
Abbey, and is now the property of M. Ourrard. 
The C^uMrie contains 34 vats, holding 450 puncheons 
each ; two cellars will hold 16,000 puncheons. The 
price is 6 to S^francs a bottle, for the oldest. 

The next vineyards are those of OiUy and Qramds 
Eehueaux and Romanee Conti, at Yosne. 

NuitS (3i miles), a small town, once fortified, on 
the Muzln, under Cdte Nuitonne. It aras taken by 
the Germans in 1870. Population, 3,654. Here 
are two churdies, Ac, and the Clos de St. Georges 
rineyard. On a solitary hill, to the north-west^ 
about 560 yards high. Is Vergp Chateau. 

Coaches to Ctteaux and Ambigny le Magny. 

[CUeaux Abbep^ 7} miles, founded 1098, by St. 
Robert, was the residence of St. Bernard. It 
produced four popes, and at one time had 1,800 
monasteries for men, and 1,400 courents for 
women, in connection with it It was sup- 
pressed 1790, and was almost destroyed . What 
remains is now an agricultural Reformatory.] 

Cross the Muzln to iWmeatr, with its vinejrards, 
stone quarries, bridge, and sulphur spring; then 
the viaduct on the Courtavaux, where the hills 
begin to lower, and the quality of the Cote de 
Nuits wines decreases in consequence. 

COlVOlOlll (3f miles) has a church with a 
Romanesque tower, restored since 1636. 

Close to this, but at some short distance from the 
station, is SeTXigny (population, 1,320) ; then 
Aloxe and the chapel of Notre Dame du Chemin, 
where the Cdte de Beaune wines begin, under the 
names of Cor ton, Charlemagne^ Ac Not far from 
here is the village of 

Saviont (population, 1,800), which produces 

Vergelessee wine and has a Ch&tcau of the 14th 

century. 
Cross the Roin to 

Beaune (5) miles). 

Hotel*. — De la Poste ; de France. 

A sons-prefecture and centre of the Burgundy 
wine trade, Ac, on the Bonzoise, with a population 
of 12,470, mostly wins dealers and coopers. The 



Bbute 20.] 

Vln de Beaune Is deservedly appreciated on the 
Continent, but seldom met with at English tables. 
Beaune was a Roman military post, and, in the 
13th century, noted for its scarlet dye, and the 
excellence of its iron and steel articles. Two 
round toicers of Louis XL's castle remain. 

The Collegiate Church of Notre Dame, a curious 
building with several low spires, begun in the 12th 
century, was restored in 1852. It has some old 
tapestry. Chancellor RoUin's Hospital, or Hotel 
Dieu, founded 1443, Is In the Gothic style, with a 
court, Ac, and Van der Weyden's "Last Judg- 
ment" — a fine altar-piece (restored) in nine panels. 
There are a Library of 30,000 volumes, a Museum, 
theatre, Ac, with Rude's statue of Monge, the 
mathematician, a native. 

Near here, on the Bouzoise, are Pohmard (popu- 
lation 1,170), on the line to Amay-le-Duc, and 
VoLNAT, both noted for fine wines. 

Meursault (4J miles) has a spire church, and an 
old country-house. Population, 2,564. Its white 
and red wines are noted. Pulignt, further on, is 
the scat of the exquisite Montracfut wine; then 
come Chassagne and its vineyards. 

Cross the Dheune by a skew viaduet, to 

Chagny (5i miles), once a fortified post, now a 
great centre for wine. Population, 4,736. A tower 
(used as a prison) of its old castle still remains. 
Tills was in 1365 the head-quarters of a gang of 
freebooters, called Ecorcheurs. The church has a 
Bomanesque tower. 

Conveyance by rail to Epinac, Autun, Etang, 
Montchanin, Ixj Creuzot, B^cize, Bigoin, Ac, on 
the Nevers and Moulins lines, which come in here. 
[(A)— Cbagny to Kevers. 

Nolay (9 miles from Chagny), in a white wine 
coantry, at the bottom of a narrow valley, has 
a good spire church, and the tower of its old 
chateau. Camot was bom here. At Bout-du- 
Monde (End of the World), at the source of the 
Cnsanne (2| miles off), Is the fine Fall of 
Maruvault, 60 feet down. Into a rocky hol- 
low below. Population, 2,404. 

EplnaC (17 miles), among coal and iron mines, 
and glass works (population, 4,061), from 
which a goods rail runs north to the Canal de 
Bourgogne. Line to Leg Laonies (page 871 
on the Paris-DIJwi line. 46* mUet long. 



BAKD-BOOK TO VSANCB. 



91 ^ 



passing through Anuiy4e-!>aO ^,876 in- 
habitants), opened in 1892. From Arnay-Ie- 
Buc to Beaune (page 90), ao mtles, passing 
through Pommard (above). 

Aattm (42 miles south-south-west), on the 
Arroux, where seven roads meet, is a sous- 
prdfectnre, in department Sadne-ct-Loire, a 
bishopric, Ac, remarkable for its Roman 
remains. It stands in a good sporting country, 
among hills and forests, 1,500 feet to 2,500 
feet above the sea. Population, 15,187. 
Hotels. — Be la Poste; de la Cloche. 

Autun was the Roman Bibraet€,or Augustodunum, 
one of the chief places in Gaul, and was burnt 
by the Saracens about 730. The present town is 
on a slope, under three hills (Jiont Drador Bruid, 
Mont Jeu or Jove, and Mont Cents, which has a 
lake supplying the town with water), occupying 
about one-third of the old site, within the 
ancient Walls, which are solid and entire in 
most parts, and about 3^ miles round. 

Two gates out of four are left, composed of arches 
on arches, with pilasters, Ac. One is Porte St. 
Andrd (46 feet by 66 feet), close to St. Andrew's 
Church; the other and the best, Porto 
d'Arroux, or Porta Senonka, is 53 feet by 46, 
and leads over the river, past the site (circulor) 
of the Temple of Pluto, to the mouth of the 
Tarenai, which joins the Arroux here, and is 
crossed by a sort of bent Roman Bridge, or 
causeway, on seventeen arches, more than 300 
feet long. 

Between this and the bridge of St. Andoche, on 
the Chaumar, or Campus Martins, stands 
another relic, the Temple of Jams, a square 
pile, of which three sides remain, 56 feet long, 
72 high. Tiie Marchau is the Martiale Forum^ 
at the centre of the old town, where the two 
leading roads met. Place de Ladre, in the 
Ville, or lower town, has around it the sites 
only, of the Emperor's palace, the temples of 
Hercules, Apollo, and Minerva (called Tour St. 
Andoche), the baths, the Menian schools, Ac. 

In the upper town, or Ch&teau (where the capi- 
tol stood). Is St. Lazare, or Lazarus CathedrcU^ 
of the 12th century, having a fine crocketed 
spire, 167 feet high; four quaintly carved pillars 
In the entrance; a good eholr; statttos of Preei- 



r 



92 



BRADSUA.W 8 ILtUSTRATBD 



dent Jeaiinlh (l native of Autnn); fourteen 
chapeln; ft window, stained witli the Virgin's 
genealogy; and Ingrfes' " Martyrdom of St. 
Symphorien."- Talleyrand was at one time 
bishop of Autun. An Ionic Fountain adorns 
the Place (square) in front. 

Other buildings are, the Bishop's palace, a large 
pile ; the College, f oanded by the Jesuits, to 
which Joseph and Lucien Bonaparte were sent ; 
and tiio modem HdUl de ViOe, which contains 
a Museum of 3,000 coins, specimens of natural 
history, and a Library, an»ong which are many 
rare books and MSd. 

The tower of Francis I. is a ruin; the ruins also 
of the Roman theatre and amphitheatre are 
visible, inside the old walls (to the east) ; and 
traces oftiienaumflKrWa (in a hollow)llc without. 

On a hill to the south is the Pierre de Couhard, 
a kind of stone pyramid, 72 feet by 59, and G5 
high. Carpets and rough bed coverlets are 
made here. 

Conveyances: By rail to Sanlieu, Avallon, Creu- 
to*^, &c. 

In the neighbourhood are Uehdn and its logan 
stone; the coal mines of Epinac, Creuzot, Ac; 
Champr^ry, where Madame de Oenlis was born ; 
and the old Chdteau of LaRochepot, marked by 
four good towc:8, and overlooking a wide ex- 
panse of com land and vineyards. It was 
bought by the late Count Montalembert (bora 
in London, 1810), who almost transformed the 
estate by his judicious management. 
 Etang kH miles), where the branch from 
Creuzot falls in. Rail to Roannc. 

Cercy la Tour (33 miles). Sec page 83. 

Deoize (9 mllcii), the Roman Diceiia, on a rock 
in the Loire, near iron and coal mines. Topu- 
lation, 4,977. Down the river to 

N6V6XB (22 miles), as in Route 45. 

(B)— Chagny to Le Oreuzot and MoaUas. 

St. Leser (9 miles), on the Canal du Centre 
Afontchanin, or MontcJianin Us Mines (popula- 
tion, 4,0 14), where a loopline turns otf to £taiig 
and Nerors (above), vid 

LE CREUZOT, 

(4 miles), the seat of the great iron-works of 
MM. Schneider and Co., employing ICiOOO. 



r [Sec. 3r 

Population, about28,600. The foundries, shopt, 
and yards are traversed by above 20 > 
miles of railway. One chimney of wrought 
iron is 279 feet high. Locomotives and railway 
plant of every kind are made, coal and iron . 
being found on the spot. Statue of Schneider. . 
Here As*i, a Communist leader, got up an 
insurrection, 1870. ' 

Follow the Moulins line from Montchanin to 

Paray, or Paray-le-Monial (32 miles), in«. 

fertile valley of department Sa6ne-et-Lolrc. 
Here the line from Mftcon, via Charolles, falls in 
(see page 94). Many pilgrims flock here to 
visit a Chapel dedicated to Marie Alacoque, 
who died 1690, and first instituted the worship , 
of the Sacred Heart. A party of English 
Roman Catholics, headed by the Duke of 
Norfolk, came to it in 1873. 

PigOln (7i miles), on the Loire, where the 
Canal du Centre falls iu. Population, 4,880; 
with a trade in pottery and salt. 

MOUlinB is 34 miles further. See Route 45.] 

Main Line Continued. 

The line passes under the Canal du Centre, by 
a tunnel of 256 feet, then tlirough the Chagny 
tunnel, 580 feet long, and tlirough cuttmga ending 
in a view of the four towers of Rally Castle. Agneux- 
camp (a Roman work) is near. ^ 

Fontaines (1| mile), at the foot of Mont St.' 
Hilaire, 395 yards high. It has an old church. 

We croiS the Thalie to St. C!Mm« cutting ; then 

on to 

CHALON-SUR-SAONE 

(8* miles), or Clialon, as it is often called, 289; 

miles from Paris. . 

POPULATIOF, 21,f 86. 

Hotels.— Des Trois Faisans; du ChevrenU.. 

French Protestant Cftapel, 

A sous-prefecture in department Sa6ne-et-t«ire, 
and an ancient place, on the Sadne, where it is 
navigable to Lyons; and whence tlie Canal du 
Centre (cut in 1791) proceeds to join the Loire 
at Digoln. The town suffered greatly in " tlie 
inundations of 1810. 

It is C«sarV Cabilonum, a town of the ^Jui, 
which he roa«ie a Roman granary. Both Aiigusius 
and Constantino visited It. Attila.took it after a 
siege; 461; and the Saricens, ia 782. It suffered in 



Route 20.] 



HA5D-B00K TO FBANCB. 



93 



the WATS between Louis XI. and his restless 
yassal, Charles the Bold, who held it as part of 
Burgnndy. The Austrians took it, 1814. 

Its broad Quay offers a rather good view ; and 
they say the Dauphin^ Alps, though 120 miles off, 
may be seen (?) in clear weather. A stone Bridge 
of 6 arches, with its piers carried above the 
parapet in the form of obelisks, joins it to the suburb 
of St. Laurent^ on an Island in the river, where 
there Is a Hospital (\i28) with public £at/ig 
attached, and a promenade. 

Tbe Cathedral Church af St. Vincent, of the 12th 
and 15th centuries, and another charch^St. Pierre), 
are the only two left out of fourteen. 

The other noticeable objects are, a new Hdtcl de 
Ville, Bibliothbque of 10,000 rolumcs, salle dc 
spectacle, a pretty cemetery, a prison on the solitary 
system, a modern halle aux grains, a fountain, 
with a figure of Neptune, in the Place de la Beaune 
(which has an old gate near it); a college; and a 
granite obelisk (surmounted by a Madonna, since 
1871), in Grand Rue, on the canal. 

Denon, member of the Institute, and Ni^pce, 
one of the inventors of photography, are natives of 
Chalon. There is a statue of the latter. 

Manufactures of oil from cole-seed (for which 
there are crushing mills), bricks, tiles, glass, beet- 
root sugar, white beer, iron barges, toidecaiUes 
dableUes^ for mock pearlii. Trade in these, Bur- 
gundy wine, grraln, timber, charcoal, Ac, which find 
their way here, as an entrepdt for the north and 
east of France. 

At 2 miles to the cast is the church ofSt.MarceVs 
^Ahbey^ where Ab^Iard died. 

^ Convejfances: Steamers to Lyons, daily in sum- 
mer; three times a week in winter. By rail to 
Cluny; to Besan<;on; to Geneva; to Lyons, and 
to Lons-le-Suunicr and Bourg. 

[The latter passes St. Qermaill du Plain and 
LonlianB (21 miles), a soas-pr6fecture of 4,548 
population, in a fertile plain, on the Seillc, 
with a good trade in corn and poultry, and 
manufactory of iron. The iiouses are old, and 
there are traces of Roman possession. Hotel. — 
Du Cheval Blane. 



Lon8-le>Satt1lier (17 miles), on tbe lino fh>m 
Bourg to Salins. Sec Route 31 . 

CuiSKAUX (on tiie above line), among the Jura 
mountains, has a largo Church, with many 
eccentric carvings about it.] 

From Chalon the banks of the Sn6nc arc flat, at 
first, but cultivated with fruit trees and vineyards. 
Barges traverse the stream all day long. The 
railway takes the direction of tke road, on the 
west side of the river. 

It passes by St. Remy, and Taixe Chateau^ where 
Henry IV. and Maycnno signed tbe treaty which 
put an end to the civil war ; Ziub, so called, because 
Constantine, it is snid, saw the Cross there ; St. 
Loup, its pilgrim fountain, and old castle; Mamy 
and its paper mills ; Ormes, which had a bridge In 
Roman times; to 

Yarennes-le-Grand m miiex), in a pleasant 

meadow tract of country. Population, 1,440. Ferttf 
was the seat of Baron Th^nard, the chemist. Cross 
the Grapilotte and Grosne to 

Senile cey-le-Grand (H miles). Population, 

2,437. Here are iron works, mulberry gardens 
(first planted 1824), and remains of Rufey Chateau. 
The old Chapel of the Sires de Lagny, on a hill, was 
restored in ld54. Coach to St. Gengoux-le-Royal. 
Across the Natouzc, to 

Tonrnns (H miles), an ancient town ot fi,02< 
population, at the new suspension Bridge on fire 
piers. It has a Hdtel de Ville, with a black granite 
pillar in front, found in the Sadne, and said to be 
Roman; a hospital of the 13th century; an old 
half-Romanesque Church; part of St. Philibert's 
Abbey, founded 875, and restored, 1850, &c. There 
is a slab (over the house where he was bom, 1725) 
to /. B. Oreuze^ the painter, some of whose works 
are in the Madeleine Church. 

Manufactures of pottery, leather, beer, sugar, 
couvertures, and silk thread. 

JIotd.—Du Sauvage. 

From Tournns, the line pastes Villars Church 
and chateau— the former of the 12tli century; and 
Ucblsy, witli a population of 1,622, mostly de- 
scendants of Illyrian settlers, who came here la 
the last century, and still remain a distinct people. 
There la a sa^pension bridge at 



r 



94 



BBAMBAW'S ILLV0IKAXBD 



£See.3r 



FlflVrvUIe (8i mile*), when Bonuut lemaba 
were found when the nil wm made, 1853. At 8i. 
Albain are the battered walla and lower of an old 
CkaUan^ and iu church is ancient. Coaches to 
Lne^jT, Bomenay ; and to PotU de Vamx, near the 
east bank of the Sadiie, a pretty village in La 
Bresse, in department Aisne, noted for its capon*. 
About 5 or 6 miles to the west oi St. Albain is 
Cluay^ as below. 

Senosan (3| miles), a pleasant place, with some 
pood paintin^a in its church. There are a few 
traces of a ChAteau, which, baring been boi^ht by 
a man who made a fortune by hawking lace, came 
to TaUeyrand's brother, who married a descendant, 
and who was one of the lastrfctims of the Reign of 
Terror. Many conntry-houses and Tineyards are 
seen on the hills around Kteon, wliich Is 7| miles 
from the hist station. 

MACOV, 

A bt^et. 27Sf miles from Paris, 44 from Lyons. Here 
the direct line to Genera, Alz, and Chamb^ry parts 
off (Route 23) for through trains to GencTa, Turin, 
anil Brindlsi, via Mont Cenis. (See Route 23.) 

POPCLATIOK, 19,573, 

IIoTEUL — De TEurope, wcU-sitaatcd first-class 
hotel, recommended to fiimiliesand single trarellers. 

I>es Champs Elys^es, not far from the railway 
station. 

Grand Hotel de France et Des Strangers, first- 
elass hotel, well situated at the entrance of the 
drive leading to the station. See Adrt. 

Du SauTage. 

Tills chief towB of department Sadne-et-LoIre, 
and head-quarters of a military dirision, on a low 
liill, in a fertile spot, was once the Roman Maiiseo 
^duorvm, seat of a diocese, and of a country 
called the Maeonnait, sold by the Burgundian 
dukes to France, 1241. It was ravaged by the 
Huns and other invaders, and suffered in the 
religious wars of 1562 from both parties. The 
Austrians took it, 1814, after a little fighting. 

Like all old towns, most of the streets are narrow 
and dirty ; but it has pretty walks and good pros- 
pects on the quay and in the neighbourhood. From 
tiic 12-arch bridge leading over to St. Laurent, and 
lately altered and improved, they say you m:iy even 
sec Mont Blanc. The biidge itself replaces a Pont 
iivl, fc^uilt by some Jews. 

^'incent't Church, ia^Tlace d'Aripes, on the bin. 



I of briek and bUnm, was boRt ISIO-JCI, Iqr Kapoleoa** 

I order, and stands opposite Soofltoi's hospital (1758- 

70). It waa designed as a subrtitute for the old 

1 cathedral church, which was demolished 1793, ex- 

j cept the two octagon Totcer* (one crowned by a low 

I spire, visible all round), and parts of the front and 

cloisters. St. Peter*s churcli, formerly attached 

^ to the Cordeliers* convait, is now used by tiM 

gendarmerie. 

The IW/ecture Is on the site of the dtadel (pulled 
down 1585), and was the bishop's palace. A public 
library and theatre are at the H6ta die VUle, th« 
old seat of the Counts MontreveL 

There are two hospices for incurables and orphans^ 
a palais de Justice, in pretty grounds; a dqnrt* 
mental asylum, to which a Romanesque chapel waa 
added, 1853; and s<Hne old houses in Rue de 
rOratoire, with another worth notice, in Rue 
Dombey, on the quaL One of the best buUdinga 
is the JI6tel de Sennecey. 

The Mflconnais women wear a peculiar head-dress, 
consisting of a black felt hat over a white cap. 

About 3,000 Roman coins were found here, 170i, 
with a few marbles ; and a Roman way may be 
traced towards Autun. 

Lamartint, the Republican statesman and poet, 
was a native, and had a seat at St. Point (7} miles), 
in a beautiful spot among the (Tharolals hills, near 
an old castle, which pecuniary dlfBculties obliged 
him to part with. His statue stands in the Place. 

Pottery and leather are made; there are dya 
and printing works, and a copper foundry, and a 
trade in trine (called Thorins, Moulin-h-Yent, 
Romanbche, Ac), grain, cattle, and timber. 

Contejfomee*: By steamer, to Lyons, Chalon; by 
rail, to Bourg and Mont Cenis (Routa 23), to Clnny, 
Charolles, Ac. 

The Rail of the Compagnie de* Dombe* et de» 
Chemin* df.fer dn Sud-E*t passes Cluny. 

[Climy (14 miles) has the cloisters, abbot's 
house, a chapel, and two towers of the famous 
Benedictine Abbey^ the head of that order, which 
was destroyed at the Revolution, 1789. Its 
chnrch was 600 feet long. It was rich in MSB. ; 
and had a revenue of 70,000 livres. Then oomcs 

Charolles (24 miles), a sous-prtfftctnre in de- 
partmentSaOoe.-et-Lourc, of 3,246 souls; was the 
capital of CharoiaU, ft coqnty iolBur^nnd^,ai)cl 



Boute 20.] 



UAHD-BOOK TO VBAKCB, 



9S 



1 



stands between two hills, on one of which is an 

old castle. Crucibles a#e made. One of its 

counts, of the royal blood, in the time of Louis 

XV., amused himself by firing on the passers 

by, and having killed a man, asked the king 

for letters of pardon. They were granted. 

"But," said the king, " I have also signed a 

pardon for the man who may kill you by way 

of reprisal." Further on (9 miles; is Paray- 

le-MOXlial (page 92) on the rail to DigOln 

(near the Loire) and MoullXLB.] 

Leaving M&con, we pass St. Clement (noted for 

its cream), where the branch line to Geneva turns 

off across the Sadne (Route 33); then cross the 

Petite Grosne, to 

Or^Clies m miles), which has a beet-root sugar 
factory in its old Chftteau. Cross the Arlols to 

Pontanevanz (2| miles). Then the Maurnise, 
by a 8-arch bridge ; and pass the suspension bridge 
at ^. RoHAiir, a village of 80 or 90 houses, which 
was overwhelmed by the flooding of the river in 
1840, all but its church. 

Boman^Clie (2^ miles), i.e. Bomaneaca, a place 
where Romanremains have been found. Population, 
2,297. It has mines of manganese, and is noted for 
the ifoulin-a-Vent and 2rAor/ii« wines. The Jura 
hills in view. Correspondance to Thoissey, in the 
Dombes country (across the bridge), to tlie cost. 

Cross the Ardi^re to 

Boll6Ville(6 miles) a small town (population, 
2,892) and port, the Roman Lunna, in a cultivated 
spot, in department Bhdne, which was inundated 
in the year 1840. Its Romanesque abbey Church, 
founded by the sires of Beaujeu, contains some 
of their monuments. There is also a riehly 
endowed hospital, and a suspension bridge spans 
the river. 

Branch Bail, 8 miles long, past Ceroid and 
Darette, to BeatOen. 

[Beailjea (9 miles) has a church of the 12th 
century, and remains of an old ch&teau on the 
hill above it, once the seat of the lords of Beau- 
Jolais, a district long celebrated and to this 
day noted for its wines, a sort of half claret, 
half-Durgnndy,] 

At Montmorle, on the east bank of the Sadne, is 
•p hi;,'U tower, on the bill, with n sHsiiensioi) b^Jge 



(across an island), which with the quay was rebuilt 
1840. Population, 1,960. Cross the Yauxonne to 

St. Georges-de-Reneins (H miles), with a 

population of 2,598, and a chapel, Noire Dame des 
JEaux, resorted to in times of drought. Coaches to 
Montmerle, Blacd, Salles, St. ]^tienne, Vaux, 
Trivlers. 

Beauregard Bridge and the lies de Gucrrein are 
next passed, and the Morgon, by a nine-arch 
bridge, to 

yillefiranclie m miles), or Ylllefranche-sur- 
Sadne. 

Hotels. — De Provence ; du Faucon. 

A pretty sous-prdfecture of 12,928 souls, in depart- 
ment Rh6ne, among vineyards, and good points pf 
view from the hills around. It was founded by 
Ilarabert, Count of Bcanjolals, who granted his 
vassals a franchise, in the sliape of land at three 
denicrs a fathom, and the privilege of beating their 
wives. The latter are good-looking, however, and 
are noted for their liveliness. 

Among the buildings are, the Hdtel de Yillo, in 
the Renaissance style ; a Gothic church, of the 14th 
century, restored 1866, and some statues added to 
it; and a Jesuit Seminary. The church spire was 
burnt, 1566, by the negligence of the plumber, who 
was in consequence burnt alive before the church. 
There are some old houses in Grande Rue. The 
earliest Cordelier church in France was founded 
here by Guichard III. 

Cottons and linen are made here, but the former 
trade has not lately been flourishing. 

Further on Is Pommies, which has supplied Lyons 
with stone for many centuries; and below the 
bridge of St. Barnard is 

Anse (2f miles), in a spot proverbial for it« 
fertility, according to the old rhyme-^ 

"De YiUefranche it Anse 
La plus belle lleuc de France." 
Population, 1,957. This was a Roman station, Atsa 
Paulini, or Antium, and remains were found in 1844 
near the site of Csesar's palace, now a chapel. The 
old Chateau is used as a gendarmerie barrack. 
Cross the Azcrgues, a branch of the Sa6ne, by 
a four-arch bridge. 

Tr^YOUX (8 miles), on the west, in department 
^ft, at ^he new sHsptftsioo bridge, with an i«>«*»i 



.i>6 



qsadshaw'b illusteatid 



[Sec. 8. 



in front, U n 80U8-prtff«e{ure, and has remains of a 

. (Castle on the hill; also the hou^e where the Jesuits 

printed their Journal de Treooux and Dietionnaire de 

Trevoux; and the old palace of the Parli inent of 

' Dombes, now the Palais de Justice. The terrace 

' commands a One prospect. Population, 2,687. Tr6- 

' voux, they say, comes from Tres Viae, because three 

Roman roads met here. Here wire is drawn for gold 

and silver lace, but the business has declined. 

Further on, yo:i leave on the riffht, Afont d'Or, so 
called from its rich appearance in autumn, and 
having a vierc which takes in the fine plains of Bur- 
gundy and Lyonnais, and the Dauphin^ Alps. He 
Bene is near. 

St. Qermaln-au-Mont d'Or (3^^ miles) is at 

the foot of the mountain, which rises in three peaks, 
2,050 feet above sea level, at the highest. On one 
peak, Mont Ceindre is a pilgrim Chniiel, reached by 
omnibus commanding a fine view. Its goats' milk 
cheese, known as " Mont d'Or," is held in esteem. 
At Chaiselay is a lead mine. 

. Rail to Roannc by Turare; see page 81. 

NeUYllle (2 miles), on the east bank, joined to 
VUkvert 6n the west by a suspeu'^ion bridge. Popu- 
lation, 8,2i9. Friezes, cotton and silk thread, Ac, 
are made here. 

Albigny and its four wooded islands take name 

(i*om a battle fought here between Albinus and 

Septimins Severus, in 171, when the former was 

defeated. Tlie Sadne now narrows between hills, 

' cOTored with villas and gardens. 

OOUZOn (li mile), a pretty spot, formerly noted 

lor its wines, now for its stone quarries. Those of 

' St. Gyr and St. Didi^r yield many fossils. Near the 

bridge is Rochetaille, so called from a cutting (taille) 

*■ through the rock, made by Agrippa for his Roman 

way, and part of an old chateau. 

Through Pelonni^re tunnel, 525 feet long, to 

OollOngeB (If mile), at the foot of Mont Ceindre, 
 with a population of 1,050. Fostaixks, opposite it, 
possesses many oil, corn, and print mills, turned by 
its five streams. About ninety of its houses were 
carried away by tlie floods of 1810. Omnibuses 
run to Lyons. 

A suspension bridge from each side of the river 
rests on lit Barbe, which bj crowned by the very an- 
cient Abbtif o/at. Rambert. Pasa throaghtlie tuntuls 



of St. Rambert and La Mignonnc, 820 feet and 174 
feet long, to ^ ^ 

Vaise m miles), a 'subnr*of Lyons and a sta- 
tion for passengers and dej»6t for merchandise. Its 
church is a modern Byzantine structure; and Its 
houses suffered in 1 840. Lyons, from the SaOne side, 
appears in a fine spot (something like the Avon, at 
Chf ton extending along the banks of the SaOne and 
Rh6ne, backed by a picturesque amphitheatre of 
hills, with country-seats, gardens, and vineyards 
spread over the landscape. The grey, rough rocks 
are seen here and there, looking out between th« 
tall houses. 

Cross the high road from Paris, &c., by skew 
bridges; then pass Mont Ir^nde, by the Quavaniaint 
tunnel, 7,146 feet long, 302 foet below the top of the 
hill, and ventilated by six shafts. Pass over the 
Saone and its quays, by the Pont de la Quarantaine, 
of iron (a previous stone bridge fell down), and enter 
the Oare de Perrache, at the south end of fiyons 
(3 miles from Vaise), tlie general station for all the 
lines, which meet liere, covering 20 acres. Bridges 
have been built for the joint use of the railway and 
of the carriages and passengers. Omnibuses wait 
on the trains. 

LYONS, or Lyon, 

318 miles from Paris, 218 from Marseilles. 

Hotels. — Grand Hotel de Lyon, a first-class hotel 
for families and gentlemen, and charges moderate, 
not out of proportion to the comfort. 

Grand Hotel Collet et Continental. 

Hotel de TUnivers, at the side ot the Railway 
Station of Pcrrache. 

Hotel de TEurope. 

Grand Hotel d'Angleterre et des Deux Mondos, 
Place Kapoleon. 

Grand Hotel Bel!e Cour, Place Belle Cour. Well 
situated; comfortable and good. 

Hotel de Bordeaux et du Pare, the nearest to 
the Station of Perrache. Excellent Restaurant. 

Hotel du Globe. 

De France, Hue de TArbre Sec ; Du Nord, Rue 
Lafont, &c. 

Oafes, Rasfaurants. — ^Ciife Casati, Rue de la Rd- 
publique; Maieon Uordc, Place Bellccour; Maderni; 
Bouillons Duval, several estab ishmcnts, break- 
fasts and dinners at most caftf s. A 9up of chocolate 



Houte 20.] 



ttA!ft>-ftOOk To filAKCE. 



9r 



^ 



tivken befQxe dinner (3 o'clock) is | tr.; dinner, 
2 to 3 fr. The smallJoAves, cakes (brioche), beer, 




bridge), and the land thus iccluimed and called 
Perrache^fteijh^irchltectwlio, about 1770, 

^f the Saonc, Is 

act incliules tlio 

MiiU, Plntc de 

.. • ,•»-. vvt. -* ■• l)y the Chausscc 

)se to the water, 
ades. 

y Lucius Muua- 

Luciidunum aud 

west siiie of the 

je 9th century), 

$t. Just, where 

•cat roads, made 

th (through the 

^hctaille, i£. cut 

d Italy. Mark 

pf w^hlch there 

other places. 

•y the Saracens 

ndy, and was at 

hliishops. The 

gistrates, 1195. 

\ France, 1310. 

is wars of the 

Jstonts of the 

f their leaders, 

. rise, 1562; biit 

t of Henry IV.; 

1628, carried 



I 
I 

tti 

i 

brt.», 
•otne 



1 

le Girondists, 
, punished by 

sent against 

'' . Bie-e of three 

. .  " ?s which fol- 

llot d'llerboi? 
i tcnihlo as 
tc of Lyons,'' 
'St be blotted 

a the puiiibH-* 

criplion shaH 

7 !'!/oiis is no 

' / •  . '^verc dcrhb- 

— ..'s&ott fcuv'wr: xjcrenwiaii passes; is iTtSiTed, ■**'aa nom de la loi;" and pnsoncis dc§- 

dMance south of the old Junction (near Ainav ' patched on the scaflTold and by fusillade > «■ 
G 



/^ 



. 06 5»ADBHAW'fl ILLUSTBATID ' [gcc. 8. 

in front, is a sons-prtffeelure, and has rcmainB of a of St. Rambert and La Mignonne, 8M feet and 174 
^ (!€UtU on the hill ; also the hnu-e where the Jesuits feet long, to W 

printed their /o«r; 



Trevoux; and tlie 
 Dombes, now the 
' commands a fine pi 

• Youx, they say, cor^ -^^ .< : 
Soman roads met h« 

and silver lace, but 

Further on, yo.i 1 
called from its ric 
having a vieio whici 
gandy and Lyonnai 
Bene is near. 

St. Germaln-a 

the foot of the moun 

2,050 feet above sea 
' peak, Mont Ceindre 
' omnibu^ cominandl 

cheese, known as '* 

At Chasselay is a lei 

. Rail to Roannc b^ 

NeuvlUe (2 miia 

VUievert An the west 
lation, 3,2 J9. Friczt 
are made here. 

Albigny and its i 
from a battle f oug - 

' Septimias Severus, 
defeated. The Sa6n 

' covered with villas a 

COUZOn (li mile) 
for its wines, now fo 
St. Cyr and St. Didi^ . 
bridge is Rocfutaille, 
» through the rock, mi 
way, and part of an 
Through Pelouni^D 

Collonges <i$ mil 

• with a population of '.- 
possesses many oil, c( 
its fire streams. Ab^ 

' a<vay b- 




^ 



wMko losraavnTCtf*" urottji* 



ghtlie tunnels ' fasts and dinners-at most caf^s. A pup of chocolate 



Route 20.J 



ttAKb-feOOk to t'KAKCE. 



9r 



ti\keii befQxe dinner (S o'clock) is | tr.; dinner, 
2 to 3 fr. The smalUoayes, cakes (brioche), beer, 
pork sansag^es, and nVcr fish are noted. 

Rai/toay Stations. — Perrache, Sathonny (Croix 
Bousse), Brotteaux, St. Paul, Vaise, St. Clair, 
Georgc-du-Loupo . The two steep Inclines at Croix 
Ronsse and Foun'ifere are worked by stationary 
engines. 

Omnibuses and Trams ran to most of the best points 
near the city, and to several pretty villages round 
it:.8ach as, lie Barbe, Oullins, and LongchSne 
water cure, Charbonnlfercs and its springs (8 kil.), 
Mont Ceindre, near St. Cyr, St. Bonnet-lc-Froid 
(10 miles) onahill, St.Poy,Roche-Cardon, Coltonges, 
EcuUy. Ac. Cabs may be hired in Place t*crrachc 

Central Post-Office, Place Bellccour. 

Telegraph Office^ 53, Place de la Republique. 

Resident English fmd American Vice'ConsuIs. 

English Church, Quai deTEst. 

Chapel le Evangilique, 8, Rue Lanterne. 

^g* Objects op Notice.— Views from Four- 
vibres and Guillotibre Bridge — Place Bellecour — 
Statue of Napoleon — Cathedral— St.Martin d'Ainay ' 
Church — Bourse — Palais de Justice — Palais des 
Arts and Museum — Hdtel Dieu — Arsenal. 

Population. 416,029. This includes Lyons proper, 
with the suburbs of Fourvibre, St. Foy, Ac, con- 
taining two-thirds of the whole ; La Guillotifere and 
Les Brotteaux, the richest quarters, on the cast, or 
left bank of the Rhdne ; Croix Rousse and St. Paul, 
to the north, where the weavers live (the master 
manufacturers. In St. Clair) ; Vaise, to the north- 
west, on the Sadne. 

This old and populous city is the capital of de- 
partment Rhone, head of amilitary division, seat of 
an archbishopric, and of the silk trade, &c., on the 
grand route to Marseilles and Italy, in a fine spot, 
at the junction of the Saone and Rhone, backed by 
hills crowned with country-seats, vineyards, and 
mulberry trees. Great part, called the Bourg, 
Stands on the tongue of land between the rivers — 
the Sadne, as the poets long ago remarked, stealing 
oiiietly by and losing itself in the Rhone, which 
rashes past with a strong tide towards the ^fediter- 
ranean. The point where they now join (Mulatifere 
bridge, over which the St. 6tienne rail passes) is 
tome distance south of the old Junction (near Ainay 



bridge), and the land thus leclaimed and called 
Pen*ache, after the architect who, about 1770, 
effected it by turning the course of the Saonc, is 
now laid out and built on. This tract includes the 
Cours Charlemagne, Cours du Midi, Plate de 
I'Hippodrome, Ac, and is bordered by the Chaussdc 
Perrache and Cours Rambaud, close to the water, 
planted, in some parts, for promenades. 

The Roman city, founded 43 B.C. by Lucius Muna- 
tius Plancus, the consul, and called Luciidunum auil 
Lvgdunum after him, occupied the west side of the 
Saone (which was not crossed till the 9th century), 
on the hills of St. Sebastian and St. Just, where 
Fourvi^rcs church now stands. Groat roads, made 
by Agrippa, went hence to the north (through the 
Pierre Seise, or Petra Scissa and Rochetaille, t'.e. cut 
rock), and to Spain, Marseilles, and Italy. Mark 
Antony constructed the aqueducts, of which ther.e 
are remains on Mont d'Or, and other places. 
Lyons was taken by the Huns, and by the Saracens 
(725) ; became the capital of Burgundy, and was at 
length a scigneury, held by its archbishops. The 
people began to choose their magistrates, 1195, 
Philippe le Bel incorporated it with France, 1310. 
It suffered much from the religious wars of the 
sixteenth century, when the Protestants of the 
Cevennes were hunted down. One of their IcadersJ 
the Baron des Adrets, took it by surprise, 1562 ; bitt 
it revived upon the issuing of the edict of Henry IV.', 
as mentioned below. A pestilence, 1828, carried 
off 35,000 people in three months. 

At the Revolution it sided with the Girondists 
and was, therefore, unmercifully punished by 
the Jacobin leaders, who, in 179JI, sent against 
It an army of 60,000 men ; after a siege of three 
months it yielded, when the scenes which fol- 
lowed, by order of the infamous Collot d'Herbois 
and Couthon, were as bloody and terrible as 
the Noyades at Nantes. "The name of Lyons '' 
saidBarrfere, the Conventionist, "must be blotted 
out. it shall be henceforth called Vilh Afft-ahchic 
and on the ruins of this infamous city a monument 
shall be erected, attesting the crime and the puiiisllJ 
mentof the enemies of liberty. Its indcripllon shall 
be, ' Lyons made war against Ubfvto, Lyons is no 
more.' " Many of the best buildings were dcitro- 
lished, *'au nom de la loi;" and prisoners des- 
patched on the scaffold and by fusillade, ) 



rr 



98 



fil3ADSHAW*S ILtUSTBATBD 



[Sec. 3. 



hundreds, dally. The AastrUns took It 1814, and 
carried the keys to Vienna. It opened Its galea to 
Napoleon, 1815, at the commencement of the Hun- 
dred Days, and he was so touched by his reception 
that he cried out "Lyonnals, je vous aime," — 
words novr carved on his statue, in Place Perrache. 
It was the scene of insurrection, 1831-34, at the cost 
of hundreds of llyes. 

The Lyonnais people are Intelligent and jocose, 
fond of nick-names, of argument, and fighting (as 
the events of 1793, 1831-4, prove); but they are 
tmall-slzed and almost as poor and miserable as the 
Spitalfields weavers, who are their cousins by a few 
removes, being descendants of the Protestant exiles 
driven out of Lyons and other parts of France In 
1685, at the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes. This 
edict, when passed by Henry IV., 1598, broa;;ht 
peace to the French Protestants, and especially to 
Lyons; but its Bevocatlon by Louis XIV., sent 
100,000 families Into foreign countries, and so re- 
duced this city, that a century after (1787), there 
were but 7,500 workmen left in it. This act of 
'Wicked folly made Christina of Sweden say, that 
Louis XIV. had cut off his left hand with his right 

The iiXk tradt^ Its chief staple, was Introduced In 
the 15th eentury, by Italians, who fled from the 
elvU wars of their own country. Colbert encouraged 
the planting of mulberries ; Ferrandlnes were In- 
vented 1630, by Ferrand; poplins, about 1700; 
velvets and molr^es, 1730; and the Jacquard loom, 
1802. There are many silk mills, and 70,000 looms 
employed (one-fourth In the city). The Increase of 
power-looms is continuous, competition extinguish- 
ing home-work. 

Other staple tradesare dyeing, hat-maklng(45,000 
yearly); gold and silver lace (800 looms), and bijou- 
terie to the value of 12 million francs ; cotton, hard- 
ware, chemicals and varnishes, stained papers, beer 
and liqueurs, soap, tanning, steam-engines, and ma- 
chinery — ^water-power for the works being close at 
hand. Design is promoted by the Ecole des Beaux 
Art* (school of fine arts), founded in the year 13 of 
the Republic, under five professors; and by the 
Martinl^re Institution, or Ecole des Arts ei Metiers, 
<.«., practical arts and trades, near Pont du Champ, 
supported by a bequest of Qeneral Martin, who 
made a fortune In India. The Condition des Soies, 
^X test ^ouse (or silk, was first established by 



the Republic. A Conseil des Prudhommes, i.e., a 
standing committee of masters and men, settles 
disputes about wages, &c. It was first established 
here by Napoleon, and has been highly beneficial. 

A good view of the city may be had from the 
heights of La Pape, near the Strasbourg road, where 
you see It spread below you, with Its rivers, quays, 
bridges, and faubourgs, and catch a prospect of the 
country, with the Dauphiny Alps, and even Mont 
Blanc In the distance (100 miles away). Another 
view may be had from Mont St. Irdn^e, or from 
the Church o/Fourviire, or at the Belvedere, above 
the west bank of the Sadne, reached by the funi- 
cular railway from the Pont de Tilsitt. Go also to 
Qua! St. Clau-, and to Gullloti^re Bridge, at night, 
when the city is lit up. 

An Enceinte, with bastions and a double zone of 
Forts, strengthens the city, many of them built 
since 1834, when the insurgent weavers were put 
down with great bloodshed. The largest are Forts 
Montessuy, Brotteaux, YiUeurbanne, and Ir^n^e. 
A large artillery barracks stands between Les Brot- 
teaux and Fart-Dieu Forts. Barracks at Croix 
Rousse. 

Broad Quays, as usual in French ports, line the 
river banks, the best of which are — Quals St. 
Antolne, des C^lestlns (near the theatre aiM 
caf(^s), de la Charlte, and de THdpital (on the 
Rh6ne), and St. Clair, the finest of the whole. 

The Ithdne is about 6G0 feet broad, on the aver- 
age, and crossed by nine bridges, besides the new 
one higher up, for the Geneva line, on seven arches, 
each 105 feet span. These are (beginning from the 
north), as follows: — St. Clair, suspension bridge. 
Morand, of wood, built 1774, leading to Brotteaux. 
La Fayette, foundation on stone piers, 700 feet long-. 
De THdtel Dleu, suspension, opposite the Hdtel 
Dleu, or general hospital. La QuiUotikre (having a 
good prospect), the oldest and longest (widened to 
36 feet), and shortened, 1889, being 1,152 feet from 
end to end, on eleven stone arches (when first built, 
1190, it had 20) ; liere 238 persons were killed in a 
crowd, at a fgte, 1711. Pont du Midi, opposite the 
Cours du Midi, one of the latest built. Then comes 
the railway bridge tor the Lyons and Mediterranean 
line, of stone and iron, on five arches, with ways 
for carriages and foot passengers accompanying it. 

Eleven or twelve Bridges cross the Sa^ne^ whjcl^ 



Route 20.*] 



HAKD-fiOOK TO FRANCIS. 



99 



is from 330 to 500 fCet broad. Beginning at the 
Boutli, where it joins the nhune, wc have the double 
Mulati^re bridge, for the use of the St. ifitienne rail- 
way and foot passengers, 675 feet long, on four iron 
arches, replacing a wooden bridge, carried away by 
the floods of 1840. The tubular Pout de la Quaran- 
taine, for the Paris line. The Pont du Midi, 
suspension, in line with that over the Rhdne. 
Ainny, near the church of that name, 476 feet, 
on fire wooden arches, restored 1835. St. 
George's, a suspended passerelle. TilsUf^ one of 
the best, 492 feet long, 44 wide, on five stone 
arches, built 1808. Palais de Justice, suspension, 
533 feet, replacing one carried off in 1840. Du 
Change, rebuilt 1843, — ^there was an old one hero as 
early as 1050, with houses on it. De la FeuilMe, 
suspension (suffered in 1840), very elegant, with 
lions at the ends. St. Vincent, a passarelle, rebuilt 
since 1840. De Serin, of stone, built 1815, to tho 
new Quai de Valse. Du Mouton, suspension. De 
la Gare, suspension, 558 feet ; and the suspension 
bridges of lie Barbe. A bridge is projected below 
Pont de Serin, near the Pierre Seise (a rock cut 
through by the Romans), and the wooden statue of 
Cl^erger, the Homme de la Roche. 

Some of the bridges are longer than would 
seem to be required, on account of the floods, 
which swell both streams, after continued rains. 
Inundations are recorded in 592, 1570, 1612, 1711, 
and especially In 1840, when boats floated in Place 
BcUecour, Place de la Prefecture, and Les Brot- 
teaux. The houses in the last still show traces of 
the height to which the flood of 1856 rose, in May 
ot that year, after breaking Its banks. By means 
of its rivers and the canals which fall into them, 
Lyons is able to communicate cheaply with all tho 
great towns of France. 

The Houses are in general high, but the streets 
narrow and badly paved, so that, however pleasant 
the town looks in summer, it is scarcely so in rainy 
or snowy weather, when, from its situation, the 
atmosphere is rery misty. Great improvements, 
however, have been effected since 1848, by 
widening and draining the old streets, and building 
new ones. The Rue Imperiale, now Rue de Lyon, 
105 feet wide, in which stands the new Exchange 
and Bank, was built 1855-6. The Rue de VHdtel 
44 YiU€t numlug parallel, and Rw Cenfrale, 



behind It, are new streets In the densest part of 
the city. In the new quarters of Les Biotteaux 
and La Guillotiere the streets are handsome and 
well planned. The Passages, or galleries, de TArguo 
and de THopital, are covered arcades of modei'n 
date. 

There are many public Places or squares. Place 
Bellecour, the most fashionable, is 1,017 feet by 
about 690, fills 15 acres (Lincoln's Inn Fields is 13 J) 
and had a bronze of Louis XIV., by Lcmot, put up 
1828, to replace one thrown down, 1793, by Couthon, 
thetcrrori8t,whoal80orderedsomeofthe best houses 
here to be razed. Bellecour Theatre is here. Place 
dcs Terreaux is small, but contains the Hotel do 
Ville, tho Palais des Arts, and a pretty fountain, 
erected in 1856. Here the band plays, and reviews 
are held. A flower market Is also established here. 
Here Cinq Mars and De Thou, after their confine- 
ment In Pierre Seise Custle, were executed, 1642, 
for conspiring against Richelieu; and the guillotine 
was set up, 1794. Place du Mdridien, or tffs Cor- 
deliers, a good point of view, has a Column 70 feet 
high, with a channel in it showing the direction 
of the meridian, and a figure of Urania on the 
top, put there 1768, by Payet. Place des C($lcstins, 
with a tlieatre and fountain. In Place du Change 
is a Prutestant Temple. Place Sathonay, so 
called after a mayor, is close to a railway station. 
Place Perrache, near the station at Perrache, Is 
both large and square, and planted with trees. On 
one side is Le Cours du Midi, and on the other 
side of the station is the Place de rilippodromc. 
Here stands Niewerkerke*s equestrian Statue of 
Napoleon, put up in 1852. Place Louis XVI., at 
Brottoaux, is also a regular square. Near this is 
Place Pothin, and its monument to the 210 vicilms 
of CoUot d'HerboIs' fusillades. Place St. Jean, 
near the Cathedral and the Palais de Justice, 
contains a fountain group of the Baptism of Christ, 
by Bonnassieux, and the fk'uit market. There are 
few other fountains worth notice. The Botanical 
Gardens have been moved to the Pare de la TSto 
d'Or, which has been laid out and has a lake, &e. 

Of the eighteen Churches, the Cathedral of St. 
Jean is the first. It stands on the west side of the 
Sadne, under Fourvi^rcs Hill, where the Roman 
city was begun. The oldest part is of the 13th 
century. It has a high ftont, with tlireo d«ep 



5r 



100 



BRADSIIAW's lLLtJSTRATEl» 



[Sec. .1. 



doors in it, orniuoented with statues ; a rose 
window, and low towers at tlie outer comers. 
There are also two other towers (in one is one of 
the largest bells in France), a nave, 260 feet long, 
stained windows (lalely restored), a large high 
•Itar, several side chapels (the *St. Louis or Bourbon 
Chapel licliig richly carved), and a curious super- 
aanuated Clock, made by Balois, 1598, which showed 
the saint's days, changes of the moon, Ac, besides 
having figures to strike the chimes, and a cock to 
crow the hours. 

Notre Dame dt Fourviere, near it and the Ob- 
servatory tower on the hill above, whence the fine 
view is obtained, occupies the site c^ Trajan's 
Forum Vattu^ and Is full of offerings to an image of 
the Virgin, which adorns it. It was built Ixsfore 
1168, and rebuilt 1872 and 1833. A gilt bronze of the 
Virgin was placed on the new spire tower (173 feet 
high) in 1851 ; while two paintings by Daussigny 
and Orsel (the latter a native artist) comuiemorate 
the deliverance of Lyons from the cholera, and the 
inundations of 1840. Lyons is assumed to be pecu- 
liarly under the Virgin's patronage, aud her wor- 
ship is therefore greatly cultivated here. Her 
statue, above mentioned, bears this inscription : — 
** O Marie, M^re de Dlen, Cette Ville est k vous, 
Prot^gez-la.** About a million and a half of pil- 
grims visit this church annually. From the louse 
of Abb^ Caille, near this, Pope Plus gave his bene- 
diction to the city in 1805. 8t. Irinde Church 
(modernised In 1830) has a crypt where IrensBUs 
was buried, when martyred by Sever us. In a.d. 197. 

Ainay, or iS^. Martin dTAinay, abbey church, on 
the site of Caligula's Athenanm, to which Juvenal 
refers, has the granite pillars of a small Temple, 
built here by Augustus; and below are thedunffeons 
where the martyrs Pothinus and Blandina were 
eonfined. It was first bnilt in the 6th century, re- 
built in the 10th and llth centuries, in the Byzan- 
tine style, and has been completely restored. In the 
chapel of the Virgin is her statue by Bonnassicux. 
Bt. Nisier, formerly a cathedral church, is large, nnd 
a good specimen of flamboyant Gothic of the 15th 
century, having a lofty vault, the Virgin chapel, 
with another statue by Coysevox^ good carving in 
th« choir, an ancient crypt, and a tall spire, to 
which a companion has been added. 8t. Paul, a 



small, pretty, Gothic church, replaces one bnilt hy 
Charlemagne. 

The Chartrtux ehtirdk, founded by Henry III., on 
Croix Rou»se Hill, has a good dome by Sonfflot, a 
well-pruportioncd choir, and a fine marble altar. 
Si. Bonaventure's or the Cordeliers' church, built 
132&-1468, has a good front and stained windows, 
but is most remarkable for being the scene of many 
events in the history of Lyons. It was the head- 
quarters of the insurgents in 1S34, many of them 
being killed at the altar. At St. George's there is 
a tall sp're. It was founded iu the 6ih century, 
and afterwards used by the Knights of Malta, was 
mined at the Revolution, but is now restored. St. 
Pierre is a modem church, with a curious Boman- 
esque jtor/oi of the 9th or 10th ccntur}*. St. Jusfs 
was rebuilt 1661. St. Polpearp, lately enlarged, is 
also modem, and has the best organ in Lyons. 
The diocese of Lyons is one of the oldest in France, 
dating from the 2nd century. 

The pretty new English Church, built 1872, by 
English residents, on the Quai de TEst, cost 9,000/. 

The Protestant Temple, built 1749, by Soofflot, was 
used as an exchange till 1810. A chapel, in the 
form of a pyramid, occupies the place where the 
massacres of 1793 took place, at Brotteanx. A new 
Synagogue, in Rue Lantcme. 

The new Palais de Justice, on the Baone, built 
1835, by Baltard, h.'*s a colonnade of twenty-four 
pillars, and is adjacent to the old one, which was 
the seat of the Counts cf Roanne, now a prisoit. 

Hotel de Ville, built lGiG-55, by S. Maupin, in 
Place des Terreaux. In the front, 157 feet long, 
marked by a clock-tower, Ac. restored by Man- 
sard, 1702, are a bas-relief of Henry IV. on horse- 
back, and figures of Hercules and Pallas. The 
wings, with their high roofs, are 383 feet long, do^^-n 
to Place de la Come'die, nnd include two courts, 
over the first of which the club-room rises, 141 feet 
high. In the vestibule are the Constous' bronze 
figures of the Rh6ne and Sadne, from Louis XIV 
statue, which stood In Place Bellccour; one 
mounted on a roaring, the other on a quiet, lion, 
as characteristic symbols of the two rivers. Blan- 
chet's mural paintings are seen further on up the 
grand staircase, which is admired for its oonstmc- 
tion. The archives are placad here, and it tiai 



Koute 20.] 

also a cnriions collection, made by M. Rozaz, of 
medals, proclamations, caricatures, and pamphlets, 
between 1789 and 1840. Opposite the Hotel de 
Tille stands the 

Palais des Btaruc Arts, a large square of 834 feet, 
with a figure of Apollo in the midst, built 1667, by 
Valsinifero, on the site of St. Pierre's Benedictine 
convent (of which the cloister and chapel remain), 
and restored 1851. It includes a gallery of 500 pic- 
tureSf chiefly by Flemish and Lyons artists, one 
being a view of the old bastille, on Pierre Seise 
(pulled down 1789); Roman mosaics and other 
marbles, especially the bronze tables of the Emperor 
Claudius (a native) ; a Museum of medals, silk, 
machines, subjects of natural history, works of art, 
l>usts of natives, a portrait (in silkj of Jacquard, «fec. ; 
and a si)ecial Library of 65.000 volumes and 22,000 
engravings. This is open from 11 to 3, by passport. 
One noticeable object is a Globe made by P^re 
Grcgoire, 1701, full of Geographical infi)rmation of 
the 16th and 17th centuries. 

The Bourse is in the Place des Corddlicrs. 
At the public Bibliotheque on Quai de Rctz, in 
pirt of the old convent of Trinity, is a rich 
collection of 110,000 volumes, and 2,000 MS8.; 
one room is 164 feet long. The College, or Lyc^e^ 
is close to it. The Ecole du Commerce, in Rue 
de la Gharitb, is an excellant practical school 
for boys. 

Among the ChatHtable Institutions are, the 
Ocue-ral Hospital, or Ildtel Dieu, a vast pile on the 
Rhone, 355 yards long, first founded, they say, by 
Childcbert, in the 6th century, but rebuilt with its 
large dome, since 1793, by Soufflot, and enlarged 
1843. It contains 1,800 beds. In the herb garden is 
the tomb of Narcissa, of Young's "Night Thoughts." 
She was brought hither from Montpellier. To the 
south of it is the Hospice de la Charite, as large, if 
not a larger building, founded 1617, for 400 poor 
I'cople, besides orphans, &c. Behind this is an 
excellent Military Hospital. 

The Hospice de VAntiquaille, for 600 incurables, 
lies on the west side of the Saone, on the site of the 
Itoman emperor's palace, afterwards of a mon- 
astery. A D4p6t de Mendicite stands on the east 
bank, on the site of a Chartreaux convent. There 
is an old hospice (asylum) on Quai de Flaudre, and 



HAND-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



101 



an Institution for Sourds-Muets (deaf and dumb), 
on MontS Balmont, near St. Just. 

The Grand Thedtre^ in Place dfe la Com^die, Is 
large and plain ; another, called Cercle Muslcale, 
is on Quai des C^lestins, in the remains of an old 
church. The large Theatre de Bellecour, in Rue 
de la R^publique, includes a cafd, «fcc. Tlicre are 
Baths in all parts of the city ; the largest being 
opposite the College. 

The Cemetery de Loyasse (near that foTt\ large 
and well planted, is at Fourviferes ; another, de la 
Madeleine, near the Guillotifere Church. The 
Douane (custom-house) and salt stores are near the 
Tilsitt bridge, on the site of the old arsenal. Veteri- 
nary school and large barracks at the ends of Pont 
de Serin. The government tobacco factory is on 
Cours du Midi. At Perrache is the Artillery Arsenal, 
built 1840-50, by Baltard, on the banks of the 
Saone, — a large establishment, where everything 
necessary for an army is made. Here is also the 
new prison of St. Joseph. Abattoir at Yaise. 

The corn and wine markets are worth notice; 
as well as the large Hotel des Monnaies (or mint), 
in the old Ursuline convent ; and the i/anu^en/tcn 
Civile, near St. Andre's Church, in the Guillotibre. 

Further up the Saone, in a charming spot, is He 
Barbe, an island covered with trees, and the buildings 
of St. Andre's old abbey, Charlemagne's house (?), 
and a church; it is joined to the mainland by sus- 
pension bridges. The Lyonnais always visit tills 
at Easter and Whitsuntide. 

At Fort de la Motto, on the east side of the Rhone, 
Henry IV. was married to Marie de Medicis. The 
Fountain of Rozet, near Roche Cardon, stands in a 
wood. There are remains of three Roman Aqueducts. 

Some of the eminent natives of Lyons are the 
Emperors Caracalla and Claudius; Germanlcus; St, 
Ambrose ; Jussieu, the botanist ; Louise Lab^, or 
la belle Cordibre, a poetess of the time of Francis I. ; 
Bichat, the surgeon; Mad. Rdcamier; Roland, 
the Girondist minister; J.B.Say; Jacquard, buried 
in Oullins church; and Marshal Suchet, whose 
statue is placed on Quai St. Clair. Herod, the 
tetrarch, was banished to Lyons by Caligula, a.d. 43. 

By steamer to Avignon, in summer, 8 hours 
Valence, 8f hour?, 



102 



BRAD8HAW 8 ILLUSTBATfiU 



[The direct rail to BOUTg, under the Compagnie 
des Dombet et des Chemini de fer dt 8ud-E$t, 
passes through the marshy principality of 
Dombes, to SathOll^y (branch to Tr^YOUZ), 
page 96. 

Mioimay di miies), ViUars-Clialainont (20 

miles), and Uarlieuz-Clllltillon (25 milesX 
with branch to Ch&tUlon, and 
Bourg (35 miles). (See Route 23). FromDourg 
the line to Besan9on passes 

Moulln-des-PontB (lOf miles), Gollgny (Sf 

miles), St. Amour (3 miles), in department 

Jura, 
Cuiseauz (5^ miles), with an old church, 

Beaufort (6 miles), and 
LonB-le-Saulnler (S| miles), where the line 

ft-om Chalon-sur-SaOne fails in. 

[The line to L'ArbrOBlO and Saint Be), 16milcs 
long, connects with Montrond andMontbrison.J 

LONS-LE-SAUNIER. 

POPULATIOH, 12,610. 

Hotels. — De Paris; de I'Europe. Buffet. 

This capital of department Jura is in a gorge 
under four peaks of the Jura mountains, 
coyered with vineyards. Fine views over the 
Dressc country. It is noted for its »aH springs, 
which were worked by the Romans, from whence 
it received its name, Lodo StUinarius. 

The church it on Place d'Armes, which has a foun- 
tain and pedestal, which, till 1830, bore a stntue 
of Plchegru. Covered galleries or arcades line 
the principal street, which is lit with gas. 
General Leoourbe was born here ; a statue has 
been raised to him in Grande Place. 

At the uorth end of the town, near the old castle 
of Montmorot, arc the Putts des Salines (salt 
springs), rising into a great pit 65 feet deep, 
whence the brine is carried by pumps and 
wooden gutters to vast buildings, for filtering 
and boilingit. About 20,000 quintals (of lOOlbs. 
ench) are made. There is a good trade also in 
wine, eau-de-vie, and Gruybre cheese. 

From Lons-le-Saulnier, rail to Champagnole 
(28 miles), thence to 

St. Laurent, 14| miles (see I^oute 23), in the 
Jura MountRins on the Swiss bojdcr, 



[Sec. 3. 

Oar line goes on to Poligny (18 miles), under 
the Jura mountains. Population, 4,433. It is 
a sous-prdfccture of the old Castrum Otinum, 
at the head of the Golantine, in a gap of 
tlie mountains; and has part of an old fort, 
and a Roman way called Chemm Pav^. 

ArbOlB (7i miles), 946 feet above sea, a Spanish- 
looking town up the Cluse; with a population 
of 4,355, and factories of paper, and red and 
yellow Vin de Paille (srapes dried on straw). 
The Hotel de Ville, Halles, and Theatre were 
once churchefi, Ac. Here Pichegru was born. 
Hotel. -De la Poste. MOUCliard (5| miles), 
n junction station, 5 miles from Sallns, 88| 
miles from Pontarlier, 20 miles from Dole. 
Byans (12 miles), near Quingey and its stalac- 
tite grotto ; thence duwn the Rhdne and Rhine 
Canal to Besanfion (l 8| miles) . See Route 21 .] 

Routs 20 is contiuno 1 on page 104. 

Lyons to Nlxnes by the Rive Droite (of 
tlie Rhone). 

174 miles in 8| to 12 hours. From Perrache 
Station. 

The line runs over the embouchure of the Sadne 
and through the Mulatiere tunnel, thence follow- 
ing the west bank (fiee droite) of the Rhone, which 
is never far distant, until the lino nears NIanes. 

From Lyons to Glyors-Oanal (12^ miles), 
where the line to St. Etienne turns off, the only 
place of any size is Outline (population 7,585), 
with two chfttcaux, which indeed arc somewhat 
numerous on this line. 

At Givors Canal a viaduct of 20 arches crosses 
successively the canal, the Gier, and the principal 
station of Givors. Then a tunnel of 1,100 yards to 

Loire (3 miles). Pass St. Romaln-en-Gal, with 
ft very old church, to 

St. ColOmbe (4 miles), which is joined by a 
bridge to Vienne, on the Lyons and Marseilles line 
(page 105). 

Condrleu (7^ miles), noted for white wines^ 
rivalling Champagne. It was founded by Arch- 
bishop Raynaud, in the 12th century, and gave rise 
to the family of Yillers. St. Pierre and Limanjf, % 
little further on, are noted for their wines, 



Boute 20a.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FBANOB. 



103 



^ 



Cbayaiiay (Sf miles) and St. Pierre-de- 

BOBnf (2 miles). Then 

Sorri^reB (5 miles). A small town half de- 
stroyed by floods in 1840. Hence, over a long 
viaduct and through a tunnel, to 

Peyraud (2^ miles), with an old castle of the 
Roussillon family, where the line to Annonay is 
crossed. Tunnel to 

AndaZLCe (P miles), amongst vineyards; con- 
nected by a suspension bridge with Andaneette, on 
the Marseilles line. Across the Donx and through 
two tunnels to 

Toumon (7 miles), a sous-prdfecture in 
department Ard^che. At the MairU are remains 
of the old (kuthot the Comtes de Tournon (one of 
the most ancient names in French history) and 
the Dues de Soublse. Cardinal Toumon^ prime 
minister under Francis I. and three other kings, 
whose life was written by Henry Terna, a native 
of this town, founded a College here, 1642. It was 
the first held by the Jesuits, in France, attracted 
many scholars, and was not given up till 17fi6. 
It is now a Lyc^e, surrounded by fine gardens. 
Tlie Castle is near the two suspension bridges to 
Tain, one of which, built 1825, by M. Seguln, is the 
oldest in the country. Population, 5,146. ffoteU. — 
De la Poste; de Monet. 

Mauves ( i milesX 

St.Peray (6miles). Population, 2,555. Ruins 
of the castle of Crtusol. The wine grown here is 
a variety of the C6te Rdtie, which district termin- 
ates hereabouts. On the opposite bank is the 
town of Valence (page 107). 

807OXL8 (4i miles). Prehistoric grottoes, and 
an old tower, out of the perpendicular. 

Beauchastel (5 miles), on the river Eyrieux, 
is so called after a castle which belonged to the 
bishops of Valence, and has a wire suspension 
bridge across its little rapid stream, which here 
tumbles into the Rhdne. 

La Voulte (3 miles), behind a group of islands, 
called He de Roussillon, &c. Population, 3,148, in 
the foundries, which now occupy the rather fine 
remains of a CastU (called La VdUa^ In the romance 
language, because the Rhone turns round the rock 
It stands on) of the house of Levy and the princes 
of Rohan. There used to be In the^ old chapel a 



pictare of the Virgin appearing to her relation^ the 
ancestor of the Levys, as he stood with his cap in 
his hand. A label out of his mouth was Inscribed, 
" Je vous saluey ma Cousine" to which she was made 
to answer, '♦ Couvrez vous, tnon Cousin." 

Le Pouzln (3f miles), at the L'Ouz^ve's mouth, 
where the line to Privas (see Route 29) turns oS, 
suffered much In the religious wars of the time of 
Louis XIXL, and was taken after a long siege hj 
Montmorency, 1628. 

BalZ (3 miles Arom this), a little beyond the 
Payre's mouth, was another of the Protestant 
strongholds, and the birth-place of Archbishop 
Audibert de Lussan. Several islands face it. 

CruaB (8| miles), with an interesting Roman- 
esque church, as old as 1095, which once formed 
part of the Abbey of St. Benolt. 

Bridge over the Lavezon to 

BOChemaiire (6 miles). Here is an old castle, 
built of basalt, on a lava cliff, 820 feet high, once 
the seat of the Adh^mars, and a catholic strong- 
hold. The Volcan de Chenavari, a mass of basaltic 
columns, is near here. One part is called the 
PavSdes Giants (Giants' Causeway). 

Le Toil (3 miles), at the bridge below Luizene 
Island, which was taken and reduced by Louis 
XIII., in 1632, and is noted for its pottery. 

Near it are the Marquis of Joviac's seat (with a 
gallery of Roman inscriptions); the Roches des 
Dames (at Aps), where some of the persecuted 
Albigenses were once hid ; and Melas on the river 
Frayol, which runs into the Rhdne a little south. 

Rail to Alais (page 158), by Ruoms and Roblac 
(see Route 29), 68 miles. 

yiYlers (6 miles), the old walled capital of the 
Vivarais, now seat of a bishopric with 8,468 souls 
(it once had 15,000). It grew out of a Roman 
town called Alps or Aps, on the Escontaye, which 
runs up by it ; but fell into decay after the religious 
wars here. The choir and tower of the Cathedral^ 
standing over the town, are Gothic ; the nave is 
more modern. The Bishop's Palace is a fine 
building, with good grounds about it. The new 
priests* seminary stands close by. Richelieu viidted 
this place in hiii t^sce^t of t\^e Khdpe. 1643, with 



r 



104 



BRADSPAW'fl ILLUSTSATSD 



[Sec. S. 



his two victims, Qtaq ^ars uid De Thou. A 
road to VUleneuve de Bei'g goes o9 to tbe west. 

Bonrg St. And^Ol (8 miles), which has a 
large and good CAtircA, ^uilt in the 10th century, 
by the bishops ot Yiviers, on the sttis of the relics 
olSt. Andiol^ a disciple of St. Polycarp. It was one 
of the chief seats of the bishops, and had many 
convents before the Revolution. Population, 4,2^0. 
At the fountain of Tourne is a grotto, with a rude 
carving of Mithras sacrificing the bull, with ^lis 
dog, an altar, and traces of an inscription. 

S^.-Ja9t-St.-]([arcel (about 3 miles), in the 
Ardbche, ^as a part of the old sea^ of the !tJeruis 
family, where a Cardinal of that name was born, 
1765. 

Bridge across the Ard^cbe to 

Pont-St.-Esprit (Sf miles), just below the river 
Ardbche, which falls in here and gives name to the 
department. It is a dirty place of 6,262 souls, with 
a citadel. Its remarkable itone Bridge of twenty-six 
arches, 2,C22 feet long, was built 1263-1309, by a 
brotherhood of masons, &c., called the Fr^res-du- 
Pont, with subscriptions collected in Holy Qhost 
(St. Esprit) Chapel, hard by. The centre arch is 
108 feet wide. It will be observed that the 
bridge itself is not built straight, either from 
the difficulties of finding a good foundation, or, 
probably, to withstand the current. 

The town was occupied by both parties in the 
religious wars in the time of Louis XIIX., and 
was sacked by the Baron des Adrets. Hotet.-^ 
De r Europe. 

Tunnel. and bridge over the C^ze. 

QftgnolS-SUT-G^ze Cl\ miles), a manufacturing 
town of 4,451 inhabitants. 

Roquemaure (lO miles) is so called from the 
dark colour of the cliffs (as in the Latin itMurus^ 
a Moor). Acoordiug to some, it is the spot where 
JIaunibal crossed the Rhone on his way to Italy, 
218 B.C., and is further noted as the place where 
Clement V. (on his way to his native town, Bor- 
deaux) died, in 1314. He was hardly dead when 
ills attendants went off with everything they could 
lay their hands on, leaving bis very body half burnt 
by a torch which (ell ou it. Trade in wine, eau- 
de-vie, olive oil. Population, 3,461. About 1^ mile 



to tb9 left is Skfwotttrrt^ a f ortlAed retreat agatost 
robbers in old times. ' ' 

Tunnel to ViUeneilve-l^fl-AtlglLOII (8 miles), 
a small town with 2,622 inhabHantS; old fort, and 
Abbey of St. Andr^; Chartreuse Convent, and fts* 
ruined church; fortified Church of Notre Dame, 
14th centuiy. Tomb of Innocent VI. in the 
Hopital. In the Museum is, amongst oth4r pic- 
tures of Mignard, that of Hadame de Qanges, t(ie 
heile ProoengaU. whose fate was a melancl^oly one. 

Pont d'Avlgoon (f mile) and RexiioiiUiui 

(4J miles). Bufet. Population, 1,375. Ancient 
ruins. Rail to Tarascon, Uz^a, and Alais. Brid^re 
over the Gard. 

Lafonz (f mile). Hydrotherapeutlo establish- 
ment. 

Marguerittes (9 miles), a town of 1,905 In- 
habitants. From here it is 2 miles to Grezan (sec 
page 151) and 2 J miles further to Klmes (page 151). 

DROTJT3B SO— Conftnttcrf. 
T^joiui to Avignoii, UarseiUes. fuad Toulon. 

By raU to Marseilles, 218| miles. Trains, 7f to 
12 hours. Opened throughout in 1866. Close to 
the east side of the {(hone. The St. i^tienne line 
follows the west bank as far as Givors. 

The Rh6ne is navigable with difficulty above 
Lyons, but its descent is easy and rapid, though 
obstructed by sand banks. To Avignon (about 150 
or 160 miles) 8 hours are allowed; to ascend it, 

> 

against the current, takes 45 hours. 

From the Perrachc station the line crosses the 
Rhone to the suburb of La Guinotiere. The first 
station out of Lyons is 

^%. FOUB (.3^ miles), or St. Fond. 

Fey8i:|l (3 miles), opposite Irigny, the first vil- 
lage ^a Dauphiny, has a seat of the Comteaae 
de Brison-Chaponay, whom Josephine and her 
daughter visited here, before the Revolution. Near 
this, on the l^hone, is Solaisb, which has a 
J^man miliaty^ or mile-stone, standing on the 
ancient way to Vienne, with the figures, VII., on it. 
St. Stmfhobien d'Ozon contains part o( an old 
Cinstle of the couuta of Savoy. 

S^r^Bln m miles), near which is TsaNAt, witli 
an 0^ <hlteatt,'and8t. Mayeul's Romanesque firio'r^ 



Houte 20.J 

Church, founded in th^ 12th century. Through a 
ralley which hides the river, to 

Olia^se (3 miles), having railway communica- 
tion with GivOXS station on the west bank. It 
stands opposite jl© Blanche and other islands 
in the river Chasse, or Seyssuel, as it was called, 
which gave name to the Saxeolum tcines, of which 
Pliny speaks. There are ruins of a chateau of the 
Vicnno archbishops. 

Estressin (5 miles). Close to the next station, 
Vffttiie, there is a Tunnel of 2, MO feet, and a viaduct 
over the Gere, on two arches of 52 feet span, with 
another on 85 arches, over the port, at its mouth. 
VlfiNNE (If mUes). 

POPULATIOW, 24,817. 

Hotels.— Dtt Nord ; de la Poste. Buffet here. 

1^ Objects op Notice. -Museum— Temple of 
AugUBtM— Arcade du Forum-AigulUe— Aqueduct 
—Cathedral— Chui-ch of St. Andrtf-Ie-Bas. 

This very old town, a sous-pr^fecture in depart- 
ment Isfere, and oijce the scat of a diocese, is on the 
Rhdhe and the Gfere, at the suspension bridge to 
ate. Colombe, tn an amphitheatre of vine-covered 
hJlls. It wafi the Vienna AUobrogum, or chief town 
of the Ailobroges, and came to be an Important 
Konian city, "pulchra Vienna," of Martial, "Vienna 
opulenta," of Ausonius; but declined after the Bur- 
gundian kings sold it to the archbishops. 

The Musee, where many Roman marbles and in- 
scriptions are collected, was itself a temple to Augus- 
tus and Livia, afterwards used as a church; it is 
buiue^hing like the Maison Carrie at Nismes; was 
restored in 1858, and contains also a library of 6,500 
volum3s. Near the theatre is an ancient Portico/now 
called the Arche de Triomphe, or Arcade du Forum. 
Its prhicipal arch is 49 feet by 25. 

Outside the I'orte d'Avigiion Ls the Plan de 
V Aiguille, 62 feet high, a quadrangular pyramid, 
resting on four open arches, with Corinthian 
pillars at the comers, having formerly been a 
portion of the sj>ina of a circus. Bemains of aque- 
ducts, and of an amphitheatre. 

Tlie large Cathedral Church of St. Maurice, near 
!hc river, Is partly of the 11th and 12th centuries, 
the latest addition being in 1516 ; it has two towers, 
a eculptnred pdrtal, approached by 32 steps, and a 
balustrade, a high vault on 19 piUarft, a tomb of 
Bo7on, King of Ariel 0900), iwa a fine »lUr by 



HAND-BOOK TO TBAITOE. 



105 



^ 



Sloozt. In 1312, a council by order ot Philippe 1« 
Bel pronounced against the Knights Templars. 

St. Andre-le-Bas Church, which was partly made 
out of a Roman temple, was the burial-place of the 
I^urgundian kings, as far back as 993 ; it has a light 
Bo-Tianesque tower, and some ancient cloisters. 
There are remams of St. Pierre's monastery, 
founded in the sixth century. 

fferod Arehelaus was banished from Judea to 
Vienne, by Augustus, in the year a.d. 9; and to 
this place, also, Pontius Pilate was banished, by 
Tiberius, about a.d. 38. It became the seat of 
one of the earliest Christian churches In Gaul. 

Steamers to Lyons, besides those from Avignon, 
which touch here. At Pont I'Evgque, on the Gfere, 
lead mines arc worked. 

Opposite Vienne are Stb. Colohbe and St. 
Romain-ex-Gal, both aboundhigin Roman traces, 
which turn up now and then. In the Cordeliers' 
Convent, which still exists, phUippe le Bel and 
Philippe do Valois stayed at their vitits to Vienne, 
1312 and 1343. Further south is St. Cir, nearly 
opposite to the old church of Notre Dame de Vile, 
which belonged to a priory of the V2th century, the 
cloisters of which are standing. The next station to 
Vienne is 

Vaugria (3 miles), to the north-west of which, 
across the river, Is Ampuis, which was known as 
Ampucius in the 6th century, and has a seat of the 
old family of Maugiron. The red wines of C6t^> liotie 
begin here, and at Tapin (1 mile further) ; and It is 
known also for its apricots and melons. 'I'he Cote 
Rotie vineyards, first planted, they say, by the 
Emperor Probos, extend to St. Pc'rny, near 
Valence. Mont Pilas In the distance (south-west), 
3,500 feet high, is round-topped. 

Lea RocheB-de-Condrieu (4^ miles), near the 
villages of Auberive, Clonas, Ac. 

Le P^age-de-Roussillon (5^ miles) has a 
chateau, in which Charles IX. ordered the adoption 
of the Gregorian Calendar. Here, according to a 
common belief, the real "climate of the South " 
begins. 

Salaiae (2| miles). Opposite is Serviires. 

St. Raml>ert d'Albon (2f miles), close to the 
river again. H&ri th^ brcineh line to Grenoble, of 
the Dauphiny Company, turns off (pa^e 106), 



r 

106 



bbadshaw'b illcstkated 



Another line to nnniny, on the sonth-wert, 
eroases the riTer and passes throngfa Peyravd. (H 
mjleft), Mldon (^ miles), and Aimoway. 
[Amumay (3iniles),an old toimin the Ardfeche, 
on the D^ne. It is the Roman AwMMm^ and 
is noted for the manof actore of glores, excellent 
paper, and white silk. Mnlbeiry trees are 
planted all roond it, and both rirers are lined 
ikith factories; stnne belonging to the Uwi- 
goifia^ of the same family as the brothers 
Joseph and Stephen (natiTes), who went up In 
their first balloon here, 5th Jnne, 1783. An 
obelisk to their honour stands in Grand Place. 
It has a stotne of Boissy d'Anglas, president 
of the Conrention, also a native. Population, 
1 7,626. The factories for preparing glove skina 
employ S,OtlO persons. About 330,000 dozens 
are prepared annually. flo/*l*— Du Midi; 
de Provence. Hence, 28 miles, by BOQTg 
Argental (page ISC) to FlZIIliliy, an indus- 
trial town of 14,511 inhabitants (page 147). 
There is a short line, 13 miles, from Firminy to 
St. Just-sur-Loire.] 
[The QrauMe Line, above mentioned, was opened 
1858. Distance, 56 miles. The stations are as 
follow: — 

Beaurepaire OH miles). 

La C6te St. Andr^ (10^ miles) . 

St. Btienne de St. Oeoin {M miks). 

iTCanX (3f mfles). 

BiTM (31 miles). Here theroadfrom BOVIgOiB 
station faUs in (see Route 35). Rives stands (m 
the Pure, at the edge of a pretty valley, where 
manufactures of linen, paper, iron, steel are 
carried on. Population, 3,083. Chiteau 
d'Alivette is near. Soon after this, we come 
iato a beautiful part of the Is^re, called the 
Vattef of QrenvamdoMy richly cultivated. 

YolrODt 6i miles (see page 137). A manufac- 
turing town, near the Morge. Population, 
11,604. Conveyances to St. Laurent du Pont, 

for the Cteande Chartreiue. 

Molrans (4} miles), near a fine pass. 
Voareppe (3 miles); conveyances to Gramde 

Chartre*$e (see Route 35). 
'^t. Bgrtre (7| miles). Then 
"^Olfle (3 miks), see Route 25.) 



[Sec. 3. 
Hainline eonttanied. 

Between St. Rambert, on the main line, and the 
next station is Cbaxtacvx and its carious Roman- 
esque Cftwrft, half fortified, once part of a Bene* 
dictine abbey, founded by the Dauphins, and built 
out of a Roman temple. It is covered with quaint 
carvings. 

Andancette (3{ miles) has a tower of the old 
counts of Grdshrandan. 

Before the next station you paas near Ponsot, 
and tlie ruined tower of CkdUam FOate, so cftlled 
after Pontius Pibite, who, they say, drowned him- 
self here after his banishmoit to Ttenne. 

St. YaUier (4} miles), at the mouth of the Gal- 
aure, a place of 3,856 souls, who make silk and 
poUery. It has a Roman pillar, and belonged to 
the brother of Diane de Poictiers, whose Gothic 
ChateaM^ on the cliffs, with large gardens laid out 
by Le Notre, is now a private residence. The old 
Chdtgou des Riomx^ to the north, is used as a fac- 
tory for chemicals; that of SL BartMemf dt Vols, 
up the Gahiure, stauds most pietnresqody over a 
narrow gap, called Rocfaetailltfe. A suspension 
bridge leads over to Sams; and thence a road 
goes to Anaonay. ^old.— Merle. 

8er¥e8(3| miles), opposite Arras. The scenery 
improves in character, and the Dauphiny Alps ap- 
pear. 

Soon after we pass CVtwes, standing behind the 
ClUeau de VHermUagt, vrhere the famous Hermi- 
tage Wine is grown, so called flrom a hermit's cell at 
the top. 

Tain (5 miles) is the Roman Tepna^ and has, in 
the Place dn Taurobole, an AUar, found in the 16th 
century, at the top of the Cdteau de rHermitage, 
just mentioned. Trade in wine, silk, and grain. 
Population, 3,065. The church was part of the 
Benedictine priory in which Charles the Dauphin 
was married to Jeanne de Bourbon, 1350. Excel- 
lent grey granite is quarried at Pierre AigaHlon. 
Two suspension bridges cross the river. Convey- 
ances to Toumon, on the west bank, and Roaums. 

La Boche do Glim (5} miles), carries oo a trade 
in wine, wax, Ac., and is named after a rock, 
crowned sy the old OuUe of a feudal seignenr, wl^ 
used to take loQ of paasers by, 



Route 20.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



107 



^ 



Cross thelsbrc, which passes ChAteavneuf a little 
above, and Joins the Rhone opposite Chdteaubourg., 
so called after a Chdteau, lately restored, and once 
held by Barjac do Piorregrourde, who fignu'es In the 
civil disputes of this part. Mont Blanc (80 miles off) 
may be seen liere in clear weather. Carnas,a, little 
further south, is noted for its red wines. Cross the 
Ibbre by a handsome viaduct, the centre arch 118 
feet wide. At 5| miles from La Roche is 

VALENCE. 
Abufet. 65| miles from Lyons, 1 53Hrom Marseilles. 
Population, 25,288. 
Hotels. — Du Louvre et de la Poste. 
English Pension, 36, Rue la Croisette. 
Ca/es In Place d'Orleans, &c. 
Chief town of department Drdme (in the old pro- 
vince of Valentinoi* in Lower Dauphlne), seat of a 
diocese, Ac, and of an artillery school, where Na- 
poleon studied, 1785. It stands on the east baulc of 
'.ho Rhone, here crossed by a large su»pension 
nrUge, built 1823, which affords an extensive 
prospect. 

It was the capital of the SiguJauni, and called 
ValeiUia by the Romans, wlio have left remains of 
pavements and inscriptions. It suffered from the 
Visigoths, Huns, and subsequent Invaders. After 
being held by the bishops as a county, it became the 
head of a duchy, which was united to the French 
crown under Charles VII. Protestantism took root 
here from the first ; so that in the religious wars, the 
Baron des Adrets made it his head-quarters, after 
slaying the Roman Catholic governor at his own 
door. Here, also, Piua VI. died a piisoner, 1799, at 
the H6tel du Gouvernement. 

The streets are narrow and dirty. Parts of the 
old fortifications are left, having their bastions on 
the town side, and so placed, it is said, by 
Francis I., to overawe the citizens. The Citadel 
commands a view of St. P^ray Castle, and of the 
mountains of Vivarais opposite. Another view is 
to be had from the Polygon, or Cliamp dc Mars. 
In Place aux Clercs stands a bronze monument to 
General Championnet^ a native. Nunr tliis, in 
OranJe Rue, you sec M. Auriel's library, a curious 
half-Gothic house, called Maison des Tite». Bona- 
parte lived in the same street. 

St. ApoUinaire's Cathedral^ having been often 
burnt ai^d restoir^cl, is a mixture of various styles 



(beginning with Romanesque), between 1098 and 
1604, marlced by a tall square clock-tower, burnt 
1822, and rebuilt 1838. It has the Apostles* Door, 
and two other doors. There is a marble cenotaph 
to Pope Pius VI., with his heart, and a hutt by 
Canova, besides a painting of St. Sebastian, by 
Carracci,itc. Among the side chapels is that called 
the Pendentif Chapelt a small square building, witli 
a Iianging vault on four piers, built 1548, by Canon 
Mistral, in the Renaissance style, and having the 
arms, Ac, of his family, with many good carvings. 
The Bishop's Palace is ancient. A handsome Palais 
de Justice was built, 1826. There are a Botanical 
Garden, Museums with antiquities, Ac. 

One of the Scaligers wa|, by some accounts, pro- 
fessor of the univerflty here, before its removal to 
Grenoble. About IGCl, Racine^ in a letter to La 
Fontaine, says, tliat when lie travelled routh of 
Lyons, the Provencal jpd/OM prevailed to a general 
degree. The women arc noliceable for tlicir go id 
looks and liveliness. The Comte de Montalivet 
was born here. Trade in silk and liandkerchiefs. 
By rail to Grenoble and Chambdry. 
{Valence to Grenoble, by rail, up the Isbre, 61 ^ 

miles. It passes 
Romans (12| miles), in a pretty spot on tlie 
Is^re, across which is a stone bridge to Pe'age, 
i.e., a ferry. Founded in the 9th century, it 
has parts of Its old walls left, with a cburcli of 
the 10th century. Here Humbert II., the last 
native dauphin, made over his duminions to 
Philippe of France, 1349. Population, 16,645. 
Tanning is the chief employment; and it is 
also noted for its wine, truffles, and liqueurs. 
Hotel— Do I'Europe. 
About 16 mUes to the south-east is the Castle ot 
La Chartronni^re, in the beautiful alpine 
valley of St. Jean-en-Royans. 
St. Marcellin (17i miles), a small sous-pre- 
fecture on the Isfere, in a fine spot. Popu- 
lation, 3,892. 
TuUins (15 miles), population, 4,701. A manu- 
facturing town, with mineral springs, and 
a bathing resort. 
MOiranB (5f miles), near the junction of the 
lines from St. Raml>ert and Lyons (see page 
106). Voreppe (3 miles), wlience the Grande 
Chartreufe may be visited (Route 25), 



108 



BRADBHAW'S ILLUSTRATED 



[Sec. 3. 



Orenoble (Si miles), as in Boute 25, on the way 
to ChambtfryJ 

The beautiful suspension bridge, from Valence, 
leads oyer f o Gililherand, and the ChdUau de Crussol^ 
the old ruined seat of Gerand Bastot and his 
descendants, finely seated on a parapet of cliffs; 
the gables of its keep are called the Comes de 
Crussol by Rhdne sailors. About 1 mile further is 
St. Peray, celebrated for its light, sparlcUng wine, 
and also for its stone quarries. In the latter were 
found, in Louis the Dauphin's time, the bones of 
" a man 23J feet long," most likely a fossil of the 
saurian tribe. Beauregard Chateau, which was a 
prison, is now turned into a wine store. 

Islands begin to abound in the river from this 
point, and its banks become more irregular. Views 
of the Dauphiny Alps, o\\ the east, and of the j 
Cevennes mountains to the west, are obtained 
across the fertile plain, which borders the Rhone 
on both sides. 

EtOlle m miles), opposite He St. Marcel. Popu- 
lation, 2,894. Charmes, on the west of the Rhdne, 
a little way up the small river Embroye, has, on 
the rocks behind it, the miaed duzpel of a Castle — 
one of many feudal castles which lined this river. 

LlVTOn (5 miles) is on the Drome, which falls 
Into the Rhone, three miles below. It has a popu- 
lation of 4,070, with some part of a Chdteav, 
besieged by the Roman Catholic leader, Bellegarde, 
and demolished by Louis XIII. 

i^'rom Livron there is a line, 34 miles, to Die, 
through Crest, Aouste, the Roman Augusta, 

Saillans, and Poxitaix-Ste.-Croiz. 

Crest (10 miles), on the DrOme, and the rail 
from Livron (below); the old capital of the 
Valcutinois, under Iloche-Courhe Hill, having 
a castle, and took part with the Albigenses 
against Simon de Montfort. Population, 5,669. 
General Digonnet was a native. 
About Smiles south of Saillans is the picturesque 
Hermitage of Felines, in a very solitary spot, 
reached by 50 steps in the rock. 

Die, on the Drome, a sous-prefecture of 3,729 
souls, among the mountains, was the Hea 
Vocontiorum of the Romans, who left some 
relics, which are collocted at the old bishop's 
house. Porte St. Mattel, & triumphal arch, in 



the ancient walls of the Gap roftd, is worth 
notice. It was the head of the Dioia Comte 
(joined to Dauphiny, 1189), and seat of a 
diocese till the time of Louis XIV., when the 
cathedral C7A«rcA (ruined in the religious wars) 
was rebuilt; length 265 feet by 75 broad, with- 
out a single pillar. 

Trade in silk, oil, fruit, and excellent white wine, 
called Claireite de Die. 

Ho*eh. — ^St. Dominique: des Trois Faisans. 

In the neighbourhood are, Uontagne de Glandaz 
(6,C44 teet high), where the bear, chamois, 
and white hare are found ; B\U de St. Genie 
(4,950 feet); Montagiu de Fordurles (near St. 
Jalien, 6 miles off), on which are a grotto and 
lake, where a June cattle fair is held ; Afon- 
tagne de Solore, and its grottoes ; the Mont In- 
eiceessible (€ miles), which only the chamois can 
reach, but which a Sieur de Dom julien scaled, 
1492, by the help of ropes, to please Charles 
VIII., and planted crosses on the top. — Bou- 
vante, 12| miles north-east, is a fine spot among 
the mountams of the Royauals, near the head 
of the Bourne. 

[From Die there is a carriage road orer the Col 
de Cabre (3,870 feet), about 3^ miles, to 
Veynes, a junction on the Grenoble and 
Marseilles line, where a line turns off to Gap 
(pages 89 and 40). The road passes Pont de la 
Salle (over the Drome) then Recouheau, over 
the B^ouz and the DrOme to XiUC-eil-DioiB 
(fountain with antique basin, &c), Beau- 
ri^res, on the Maravelle, 5 miles from which 

is the pass, then La Bai2ine-<leB-Arnau4s, 

with picturesque rocks and a waterfall of 
nearly 200 feet, over the Cbaurane to Fon- 
taine-Vineuse, i^hlch is esteemed one of the 
seven wonders of Dauphin^; from here it ia 
about 4 miles to Veynes.] 

On the opposite bank of the Rhone stands La 
Voulte, to which there is a rail from Livron; 
thence to Le Pouzin and Privas, page 160. 

Cross the Drome by a viaduct (below Bouclier s 
Bridge, constructed for the road) to 

IpOriOl(2milc8), which is chiefly supported by 
the carrying trade along tjiis route. Topulatlon, 



Koute 20.] 



HAND-fiOOK to FRANCIS. 



109 



^ 



3,506. It is the Soman Aureolum, founded, some 
say, by Anrelian. FauJas, the naturalist, died at 
his house of St Fond, 181*9. 

SaiQce (4i miles), nearly opposite Cruas. 

Lac]lSUZip-Condilla.C (3| miles) is near tlie 
hamlets of Logis Neuf , and the half ruined Tower 
of Lhi^ on a stream of that name, so called after a 
Princess B^lfene, who retired here a leper. 

At Condillac (omnibus in summer) is a gaseous 
iron spring. 

The line passes close to Ancone, below He Blanc, 
the ancient Aneunum^ taken by storm by Lesdi- 
gui^res, 1586, when the fortifications were reduced. 
It is opposite MeyssBy on the river Lavezon, on the 
west of the Rhdne, which has a quarry of gun- 
Hints. 

Hont^limar (7 miies), or Mont^Umaxt, a 

sous-prefecture (of 13,764 souls), in department 
Drome, on the rivers Roubion and Jabron, in a 
fertile spot, cultivated with vines, mulberries, 
olives, and oranges. Some ancient Gothic ramparts 
and gates, and a Chdteau, now turned into a citadel, 
remain. It belonged, till 1198, to the Adhemars 
(from whom its name is derived) ; was dreadfully 
injured during the religious wars; and gave birth 
to D. Chamier, a Protestant minister, who was 
shot while defending a breach at Montauban, 
1621, and who, therefore, according to a joke of 
the Catholics, died canonised, there was a fight 
on the bridge between the Duke of Angoulfeme's 
troops and those of Napoleon, 1815. It has a good 
mineral spring, and a trade in Nougat cakes (o( 
honey and almonds), fruit, wax, oil, grain, cattle, 
and morocco leather. Hotels. — De la Poste ; des 
Princes. 
[At 16 miles from Mont^limar are the remains of 

the fine 
Chateau de &rignan^ half demolished at the Revo- 
lution, and remarkable as the residence of 
Madame de Sevigni^ who has made it familiar 
by her charming Letters^ and died here in 1676. 
It stands on a rock above the town, contains 
many windows, has a wide terrace round it, and 
became the head of a comt^, 1550. Frederic 
BarbaroBsa once resided here. The plain church 
contains the tomb of Madame; of whom there 
is a portrait at th« chfttean.] 



Coach to Chlteau-Grignan, Valrt^as, ^nd Nyons. 
At AUan the first mulberry (from Italy) was 
planted in France, 1494, on a spot which is carefully 
marked. 

[At 16| miles east is DiKu-LE- Fit (i.e., God made 
it), an industrious little place at the head of 
the Jabron, noted for its mineral waters, useful 
in billons and other complaints. Hot tcrcbiu- 
thlne baths. A curious grotto, called by the 
good English name of "Tom Jones," near it, 
has a high vault, and many beautiful stalac- 
tites. Population, 3,646.1 

ChUteAUa^Uf-au-RllOue (5^ miles), on the 
slope of the hills, has part of a Roman camp and 
various marks of an ancient town. Population, 
1,460. It gave birth to an adventurer called the 
Marquis de Courbon, wlio led the Venetian armies 
at the siege of Negropout, and fell when thirty-nine 
years old. The river from this part is less hilly on 
the banks, but more winding in its course, and 
broken with islands. On the aloiiing cliffs, on the 
west bank, lies Viviers. 

Dpnz^re (2^ miles), opposite He Toncheloz, was 
given to the bishops of Viviers, 877, who had an 
abbey here, and built a Chdteau of the 16th century, 
of which there are some fragments on the cliffs 
above. They were styled princes of Donzfere. It 
commands a view over the plains of Vaucluse, and 
is noted for its red wine. Romanesque church. A 
large group of islands (2 miles long), called the 
Margiries, divides the Rhfine into two branches 
below this point. 

Plerrelatte (6 miles), with a trade in wine, 
silk, fruit, and grain. It had a castle on the rocks 
(pierre), 300 feet high, taken by the Baron des 
Adrets, with great bloodshed. Population, 3,184. 

[Correspondance from Plerrelatte, 6 miles, to 
St. Patji. Trois-ChIteaux (or Three Castles), a 
very old place under a hill, and the capital of 
the Tricastins, when the Romans came in, who 
called It Augusta-Tricastinonim. Remains are 
seen of an Amphitheatre, of a wall (in St. Jean 
quarter), mosaics, bas-reliefs, and a Gate (one 
of three), called Fan Jou, i.e., Fanum Jovis, 
because it was part of a temple of Jupiter 
Old Romanesque Gathedi*al of Uth and 12th 
centuries.] 



110 



DttADSHAW'a 



La Palnd (ft mllet), the fint place In depart- 
ment VancloM, and once a fortlfted town, belonging 
to the Knfghte Templars, with a spire church. A 
road goes off to Nyons. 

BoUine m miles). Carriage road to Talette on 
the road from Orange to Vaison and Nyons. 

[Vaisoit, a little lower down the OaT^ze, in de- 
partment Vanclnse, is the Roman FatKo, with 
remains of a cifcas, aqueduct^ temple, and a 
good bridge of one arch. 

Ntoxs (21 miles east-north-east), or K10K8, on the 
Aignes or Eyg^es, is a soas-prtffectnre (popn- 
lation, 3,849), in department Drdme, and the 
ancient Ntomagut, finely seated over the bean- 
tif ul valley of the rlTcr, nnder the Col de Devoz, 
Mont de Vanlx, and Mont de Garde Crosse. It 
had a chftteau of the Dauphins, and in 1622 
made a worthy defence against the Duke of 
Savoy, headed by the daughter of Margnerite 
de Charce. Hotd.—'Du Lonvre. 

The town proper, called thei?a77ec, from an ar- 
caded btiilding here. Is divided from the Bourg 
and forts (where the castle stood) by old walls 
and gates. In the lower part at the defile of 
Pillea, a very old, if not Roman, Bridge^ crosses 
the river by a single stone arch, 127 feet wide, 
6d high, having a square tower in the midst. 

The valley of the Aignes is like a garden all the 
way f^om the Rhdne, between high hills co- 
vered witli vineyards, olive-yards, malberry- 
grounds, A;c. It is remarkable for a healthy 
wind, called Vent PonticUy blowing down the 
vftllcy from the mountain of that name at the 
head of it, every day till noon, when it is suc- 
ceeded by another blowing up it, called V^ine, 
which is hot and enervating. A road tuma off 
to Carpentras. 

NoLLAKS (12| miles south), in a picturesque ravine 
on the Ouv^ze, under Chatelard and other 
mountains. It has a sulphur spa, «S;c.] 

Mondragon (2 miles), standing on the river 
Lez, under an old ruined OasUe on the rocks, was 
held by the archbishop of Aries, with the title of 
prince. Population, 2,968. 



XLLtrSTKATBD [ScC. 3. 

Momat (3 miles), nearly opposite St. l^tiennc- 
de-Sorts, is an ancient place, with a rained CastU 
above it, which was Uken, 1562, by one of Des 
Adret's fierce captains, Dupuy Montbnm, and its 
defenders forced to jump from the rock on the 
pikes of his soldiers. Their bodies were then put 
in a boat to float down the river, with this notice to 
the people of Avignon, " Pass these merchants, as 
they have paid their passage at Momaa/* The line 
diverges from the river, to 

PiOlenc (If mile), a small fortified post, with 
a ruined Castle near its church, in a spot abounding 
with wine, com, and fruit 

[About 4 miles south-west, across the Rhdne, is 
CoDOLBT, near the mouth of the C^ze, noted for 
its wine, and, formerly, for the ch4teaa of the 
Marquis d*Anc^znne>Cadart, who received 
Louis XIII. here, in 1662. A few graina of gold 
have been picked up in the little stream.] 

After leaving Plolenc station, and crossing the 
Algues and Arais (now the Meyne), we reach 

Orange (4} miles), tn a well-watered plain. 

ff<4ds,-^DeB Princes ; de la Poste. Buffet. 

0" Objkcts or NoTics.'—Rmnan Arch and 
Theatre— Church. 

Orange, now a sous-prefecture in department 
Vaucluse, with 9,81*9 souls, and much decayed, 
was the Arausio of the Romans, who placed the 
second legion here, and have bequeathed a famous 
Arch and a Theatre to present times. It was also the 
seat of an archbishop ; but an Englishman will be 
pleased to look upon it as having once belonged to 
our great deliverer, William, Prince of Orange^ 
through his ancestor, Rend de Nassau, who suc- 
ceeded to iheprineipality^ on the death of his uncle, 
Philibert de Chalon, 1680. After the death of 
William Iir. it was seized by Louis XIV., but the 
title and arms are still borne by the eldest son of 
the King of Holland. 

It has narrow straight streets, with several fount- 
ains, and a new College; near which is its greatest 
curiosity, the Roman 

Trinanphta Arch^ called the "Arch of Marius," 
though the founder and date are uncertalQ. |t 



. V 



Route 20.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FRAKCE. 



u,^ 



stands across the Lyons road, on the north side of 
the town ; is nearly square, 70 J feet wide, and 72 
feet high, with a centre arcli and two side arches, 
supported by Corinthian pillars, and cai-vod with 
bas-reliefs (different for each face) of fruits, cor- 
nucopia;, syrens, ships, military trophies, A:c., all in 
g^ood condition. Formerly it was enclosed within 
a castle of the Princes of Orange. The Roman 

Theatre^ called the " Cirque," rises over a hill to 
the south, close to the remains of the old citadel. 
It is well preserved, and forms a large half circle, 
with two rows of arcades, and a heavy wall across 
it, formed of g^eat blocks joined without mortar, 
834 feet long, 120 high, and 13 thick. It would 
hold about 6,000 persons. You may see in the wall, 
above the cornice, the holes for the poles which 
the awning was spread upon. A Museum of Roman 
marbles, Ac, has been collected within it Farts 
of Roman baths and aqueducts are noticed else- 
where. St. Entrope*s Church is of the 10th and 
11th centuries. 

Trade in silk, wool, oil, scented wines, and truffles. 

Rail to Carpentras (from Sorgues, as below). 
Roads strike off towards Mont Ventoux to Vaison 
and Nyons (see preceding page). 

Close to the east bank of the Rhdne is 

Cadesocsse, just past the large island of Pibou- 
lette, which is noted for its fertility. It was given 
by Pope Alexander VII. to the Dukes of Avignon, 
and now belongs, with a handsome seat, to the 
Duke of Gramont-Caderousac. Population, 2,935. 
Nearly opposite stands 

MoNTFAucoN, with St. Oenies-dc-Comolas be- 
hind it. 

COHrth^ZOn m miles), a little fortified place 
on the Seiile, where Jo*. Saurin was born. 
Population, 8,279. Across the Rhdne is Ro- 
qnemaure, on the west bank rail. 

B^darrides (3 miles). Population, 2,015. This 
is the nearest station to 

ChAtbaukeuf-du-Pape, opposite He d'Olselet, so 
called from a fortified country-seat of the popes, 
built by them on the sloping heights near the river, 
when they reigned at Avignon. Towers, walls, 
find gates still remain. 



Sorgues (3 miles), a little way up the river 
Sorgues, which falls in here, is on a bend of the 
Rhdne, round the large Ilede laBerthelasse. Sorgues, 
with a population of 4,047, stands in a wide plain, on 
which Cnelus ^nobarbus defeated the Celtic bar- 
barians. It has a cuiious old four-arch Bridge^ and 
the walls of a castle of the Coimts of Toulouse, 
which Urban V. enlarged for a country-house. 

[Here a Branch Rail of lOf miles to Carpen- 
traa passes by Entralgues (3f miles) and 

MonteUX (7| miles). 

Carpentras, a sous-prefecture, with a popula- 
tion of 9,778, under Mont Ventoux, over the 
deep ravine of the Auzon, in a fertile spot. 
It was Carpentoracte and Forum Neronu of (lie 
Romans, who settled a colony here; was pil- 
laged by Crocus, the Pomeranian leader, in 
266; and by the Lombards, Saracens, Ac; 
but revived again under the encouragement it 
received from Popes Clement V. and Innocent 
VI. The former began the Aqueduct, 6 miles 
long, from Mont Ventoux, finished 1720-34 
part of which, 2,790 feet long, crosses the river 
on forly-elght arches. It still retains its old 
turreted walls and four gates ; that of Porto 
d'Orange bore a great tower. There are good 
walks outside the faubourgs, with delightful 
prospects. The Canal from the Durance is 
about 44 miles long. 

The fine fa9ade of the Hospital was built in 1751, 
The Gothic cathedral Chureti includes a tower of 
Charlemagne's time, and pillars (in the front), 
brought, they say, from the Temple of Diana', 
at Venasque, 7} miles off, with many ruins! 
Near the Palais de Justice, in the Place, is a 
very much decayed Roman Arch of THumph 
The public Library, given by Bishop Inguhne- 
bert, comprises 22,000 volumes and 2,000 MSS 
many of which belonged to Peyresc, the 
scholar, besides engravings, paintings, 6 000 
medals, and Inscriptions, Ac. There are also a 
large lavoir publique (or baths), theatre, new 
prisons, and market halls. 

HoUU—D'Orleni ; de rUnivers. 

Rail to L'IsIe sur-Sorgue, page 113. 



\u 



fltlADBUAW*8 iLtUBTRAtltl) 



tSec. 3. 



AtTimilesnortti-eftst is fiedoin, vrhere the Ateent 
to ifont Vent&ux be^ns : It takes from four to fire 
hours to reach the top (6 miles), which is about 
2,086 yards above the sea lerel (the highest in 
all this quarter), and looks like a cone placed 
on the top of a dome. Prof. Ch. Martin, of 
Montpelller, says there are six botanical zones 
on the south side. The north side, on the 
Drdme border, is steep and almost inaccessible. 
At the summit (covered with snow three parts 
of the year) is a Chapel^ near a lake, whence 
there is a splendid panorama^ which takes in 
the Sh6ne, the Alps, and Cevennes.] 

Le Pontet (S| mnes), from which it is Sf miles 
to the old papal palace, Ac., of the city of 

AViaKOK, 

143| miles from Lyons, 75i firom Marseilles. A 
buffet. 

POPULATIOH, 43,458. 

Hotels. — De I'Europe, good and moderate ; du 
Louvre; du Luxembourg. 

Igp Objects of Noticb.— City Walls— Cathe- 
dral— Papal Palace— Museum— Bridge. 

This old city of the popes, chief town of department 
Vaacln8e,seatof anarch-diocese, &c., Is in the valley 
of the Rhdne, where the Durance Joins it, in a country 
of orchards, vineyards, mulberry and olive grounds. 
The Romans when they colonised it, called it Avenu. 
It afterwards came to the Burgundians and Ostro- 
goths; was for a while kept by the Saracens ; and 
at lengt*» was divided between the Counts of Pro- 
vence "and Toulouse. Louis VIII. took it after a 
siege, 1226, for favouring the Albigenses. 

Pope Clement V. (a Frenchman), on leaving Itome, 
came to live here, 1805, under the protection of 
Philip IV., of France; and in 1348, Clement VL, 
the anti-pope, bought it of the Countess of Pro- 
vence. The last resident pope, or anti-pope, was 
Benedict XIIL, whom the French drove away, 
1404' but it was garrisoned by his successors, 
under a vice-legate, till 171>1, when It was forcibly 
annexed to France. Thelnquisition was established 
varA While the pope held the towti, the rlrer 



belonged to the King of France, who kept him in 
check at Villeneuve. 

It lies abnost entirely within Its machicolated 
Walls, ramparts and towers, partially destroyed 
by the inundations of 1856, but restored by VioUet- 
le-Duc. Outside the walls arc boulevards which 
command very pleasing prospects of the country, 
the green islands of the Rhdne, Provence, and 
the Alps. Boulevard de TOuIe, facing the river, 
is the most frequented. Houses of stone; the 
streets narrow and winding. Rue de la Ferraterie 
is the most bustling ; Rue Calade contains several 
fine buildings. The Jews live in the Juiverie. 
The quays are large. A long wooden bridge leads 
over to He de la Bertholasse, near the picturesque 
remains (three or four arches, with a chapel) of a 
stone one, built by St. Benezet in tlie 12th century. 
A suspension bridge leads to ViUeneuve-les- 
Aviguon. 

The Cathedral, called Notre Dame des Doms, on 
the Rocher des Doms (which forms a level ridge at 
the back of the town, and is mounted by steps), was 
rebuilt by Charlemagne ; but the oldest part of the 
present building is a doorway of the 11th century 
It has monuments of Archbishop Libelli, John XXII., 
Benedict XII., and the brave Crillon, a native, 
with the papal (now archbishop's) marble throne, 
Charlemagne's chapel, some old frescoes, and 
modern paintings. Close to it is the larjge 

Palace of the Popes, an irregular Gothic pile, now 
used as a barrack and prison. It was began by John 
XXIl., finished by Urban V. (1388-70), and was 
flanked by seven great towers. The south side hangs 
over a precipice. Rienzi, the ''last of the Tribunes," 
was kept a prisoner here by Clement VI., his foot 
being chained to the roof of his prison. It has traces 
of frescoes, probably the work of Simon Mepami ; 
the Salle de la Qttestion (where heretics were tor- 
tured), and the Glaciere Tower, whence the revo- 
lutionary mob threw their prisoners, 1791. Opposite 
the Palace, overlooking the Rhone, Is the Papal 
Mint, now the Conservatoire de la Musique. The 
Rocher des Doms, now laid out with flowers, is 
worth ascending, were it only for the fine view 
from its top. 



Route 20.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FKANCE. 



lis 



St. Pierre's Church, of tlio I4tli aud 15th centuries, 
hiisngood front, built 151?, and a black marble 
pulpit. There are 16 other Churches ; at one time 
there were CO, and as many relijrious houses. St. 
Ajricol (named after the patron saint of Avignon) 
offers a fine nave, of the 14th century, and the 
touib of Mignard the painter. At St. Didier's (a 
church of the 14th century) is part of a curious bas- 
relief of Christ cai-rying the Cross, by King Ren^, 
the other part being in the Museum. The ruined 
Dominican Church and its cloisters are used as a 
cannon foundry. A fragment is left of the Cor- 
deliers' church, which had the tomb of Petrarch's 
Laura de Sade, whom ho first saw here, 1327. A 
cypress marks the spot. 

The JI6lel de Ville Is a handsome building, built 
1862. It stands in Place Hotel de Ville, formerly 
Plrtce do r Horloge(so called from the Jacquemart, 
or Belfry tower), where most of the caf^s are; 
also the Theatre, built 1847, and a statue of Crillon. 
Near it, at the Hotel du Palais Royal, on Place 
de rOulle, Marshal Rrune was assassinated by the 
royalists, 1815. The public Libraiy of 85,000 
volumes and 2,500 MSS. is placed in the Musee 
Calvet (go named after the founder), with Roman 
and other inscriptions, 22,000 medals, sculptures, 
the Inquisition seal, rare books, pictures by Italian 
and Dutch masters, the Vcrncts, «kc., and a cabinet 
of natnral history and geology. One of the pictures 
is Veniet's ''Mazcppa," and here is the remainder 
of King Rene's bas-relief. The Mus^e Requicn, in 
Rue Bonaparte, has a collection of natnral history, 
a fine ivory Crucifix, by Guillemin, and other 
works of art, the gift of M. R-'g^ier, geological 
specimens, «fec. Hotelde Crillon of thel7th century, 
is in Rui' de la Masse. The Prefecture is a modem 
building; near it is the Protectant Temple, about 
I'iO years old. A vast jnle, called the Hotel des 
Jnralidt:s for soldiers), wa:> suprrcsscd in 1850, and 
has been revived aguin in conncciion with the one 
at Paris. John Stuart Mill and his wife are buried 
under a marble sarcophagus in the cemetery, 
outside the Boulevard d' Avignon, on the Vaucluse 
road, near the Durance Canal. His house, in which 
he died, is close by, in view of Mont Yentouz. 

The women of Avignon are handsome. Its climate 

issoft but variable. North and north-west winds 
U 



blow vehemently; but the people comfort them- 
selves with a proverb founded on experience — 

"Aveoio veakosa. 
Sine vento veuenoia, 
Cum vento faatldioEa.'* 

The manufactures are silk, leather, honey, canthari- 
des flies, olive oil, &c. Madder (now superseded 
by the discovery of aniline, to the great loss of 
Avignon and neighbourhood) was first introduced 
by a Persian, stjled Jean Althen on the bronzo 
statue erected to him by the grateful Avignonese, 
on the Rochers des Doms. 

Conveyances: By steamer to Valence and Lyons 
(being against the stream,— the steamer takes throe 
or four days to go up). Rail to Cavalllon, Apt, 
I'ertuis, Sallon, St. Rcmy, Ac. A caleche may be 
hired to Vavduse (17 miles) there and back, 22fr.. 
including the driver (see below). Senany Abbey 
and Pont du Gard are near (see below). St. Ruf s 
Romanesque Church is also within a short run. 

[Avignon to Vaucluse, Cavaillon, and Apt. 
The line goes past St. Satuinln d'AvJgnon 

(8 miles), in department Vaucluse. Population, 
2,020. Le TilOr (3f miles), with a Romanesque 
church. Population, 2,861. L'lSle-BUr- 
Sorgue (3 miles), on the Soigue, noted for its 
eels and trout. At 4.] miles to the left is 

Vaucluse, at the head of a deep cleft (vallis 
clausa) i\\ the limestone of Mont Vcntoux, 
where the Sorgues takes its rise, in precipices 
500 Icet high. In summer it is seen trickling 
down from many parts of the rock; but when 
the snows melt at the beginning of spring, it 
falls like a cataract, from an arched cave (over- 
shadowed by a fig-tree), into the dark pool of 
Fountain of Vaucluse, below. Petrarch describes 
it in his Letters, and they show hia little country- 
seat on a hill to the right, with remains of the 
bishop of Cavaillon's castle. An ugly pillar 
stands close to the pool. Here the 6th cen- 
tenary of Petrarch's death was celebrated, 
1874, by pageants, when several local poetg 
were crowned. Hotel. — De Laure. 

CayaillOXL (5 miles), on the north bank of the 
Durance; once a Roman colony and a hishop's 
see, in a fertile spot, where vermicelli and silk 



114 



BRADSHAW 8 ILLUSTRATED 



are made. It has a triainphal Arch, and a 
Church of the 1 1th century. Here one branch 
rail parts off to Cadenet, Bonnienx, and Apt; 
another, vid Orgon, to MlrAXnas (page 116), 
32 miles, on the main line to Marseilles; while 
our Durance rail follows the river to Cadenet 
and PertuiS (page 147), 27 miles. OrgOU, 
once a Roman settlement, with old walls. 
Cadenet, near remains of a Roman station; the 

church font is Roman. 

Apt, 19 miles, a sous-pr^tecture of 5,725 souls, 

in department Vaucluse, on the Cavalon, 

founded by CsBsar, as Apta-Julia-Vulgiente*. 

Old walls ran roand it, and it stands in a 

cjaltirated ralley. Its Church of the 11th 

oeutUTy contains an old crypt. Pont Julien 

is ancient. From Apt the line was extended, 

in 18dli a distance of 80 mUes to YolZ (page 

147), on the line between Grenoble and Aix, 

shortening the route from Avignon to Digne. 

To PotU du Oard. About 18 miles by rail from 

Avignon is 
Pont du Gard, a noble Roman remain, being 
part of the great Aqueduct (25| miles long) 
which carried the waters of the Azure to 
Nimes ; and looking like a screen across the 
valley. It is a mass, 9O0 feet long and 160 
high, of three rows o/ arches^ one over the other 
— ^the lowest, a row of six arches; the next, 
eleven of the same size ; the third, twenty-five 
small arches, having the water way above 
them, whore it ran 6^ feet wide and deep. It 
was used as a road before a separate bridge 
was built, 1747, close to the bottom of it. Being 
half-way between Avignon and Nlmes, it is 
conmiou for picnic parties from both towns to 
meet here to pass the day.] 
From Avignon, the Mai-seilles line crosses a plain 
ou an embankment high enough to escape the inun- 
dations of the Rhone and the Durance, the latter 
a brawling changeable stream, here traversed by 
a handsome Viadvct, constructed by M. Didion, 
1,794 feet long, on twenty- three arohes of 66 feet 
span, resting on piles. The suspension bridge for 
the road, and the castles of Barbeutaue and 
Chftteau-Renard, are in view. 

Barbentane (H miles), at the foot of the rock 
of Hontagnette, has a castle of the 14th century, 



[Sec. 3. 

built by Archbishop Rostand, of Aries. We are 
now in department Bouches-du-Rhdne, part of 
Provence. Pass Rognonas to 

Qraveson (3| miles), near Cadillan. 

Taraseon (6i miles). Here the rati to Nlmes, 
Hontpelller, and Cette, tarns off (Route 80), cross- 
ing the river, near the suspension bridge, to Beaa- 
caire. Taraseon is an old fortified town, of 9,268 
population, having a fine ruined Oaatle (Chiteau du 
Rol Rend), a square maehicolated pile of the 15th 
century, with two round towers, on a rock above the 
Rhdne. St. Martha's church, of the 14th century 
(the portal is Romanesque, 1187), oontaias seven- 
teen carious PaitUingt of the Saint's life, by Vien. 
At St. Jacques' is a picture by Vanloo. There 
are also a Palais de Justice, Hdtel de Ville, library, 
theatre, and a ship-yard. The Rae des Halles and 
its arcades, are worth notice. Trade la silks, 
wine, oil, eau-de-vie. J?oM.— Des Emperetirs. 
Buffet. Rail to Orgon, 22 mfles, «<d 

St. Bkkt (8 miles east), in a fine spot, on the R^al 
canal; Roman remains^ part of a triumphal Arch 
and a Mausoleum of beautiful design. 

A line, 56 miles long, connects Taraseon with 
Le Martinet Ouncti<>i> &^ S^- "fuileii de Cassagnae, 
page 158), near which are the hot springs of 
Let Fumades, with five ^tabllssemcnts de btflns; 
hotels, Ae. 

SegOnnaUX (4 miles). The conntrj' is flat to 
ARLES(6| miles). 

POPCLATION, 24.288. 

Hotels.— Du Nord ; du Forum. Buffet. 

^T Objects op Notice. — Romsn Amphitheatre 
— Cathedral— Obelisk— Theatre— Aqueduct, Ac. — 
Aliscampg Cemetery. 

This town, remarkable for its Roman remains 
and its beautiful women, is a sous-prefecture, in a 
marshy but cultivated spot, at the head of the delta 
of the Rhdne, about 24 miles from the Mediterra- 
nean, to which a canal runs down as far as Port de 
Bone. Notice the bridges over the Rhone which 
is here very wide, and has two branches. 

It was the Roman Areias or Arelata, a busy port, 
which Constantine improved and called CoR«/anft'/}<i. 



Route 20.] 



UAND-BOOK TO FKANCE. 



115 



It fell to th« Qotbs, aiid after Charlema^e's time 
was the head of the Kingdom of Burgundy (includ- 
injf Provence, Dauphiny, and Savoy), under Bozon 
and his four successors; then became subject to 
the Emperors of Germany, and was given up to 
France in the time of Charles YI. 

Aries stands on a rock ; its streets are irregular 
and narrow; a bridge of boats leads toTrinquctaille, 
which Constantine founded. Place Plan de la Cour 
is shaded with trees. In Place Hotel dc Yille is 
the IMfel de Ville, built by Mansard, in a rich 
Porinthian style. 

St. Trophime Cathedrat^ also in Place Hotel de 
Ville, begun 626, by St. VirgiUus, has a richly 
decor .« ted portal of the 12th century, with niches, 
grotesque sculptures, a Romanesque tower, and a 
fine outer, half Romanesque and half Gothic, 
adjoining the old palace of the Archbishop. At 
the middle of the Place is an ancient Obelisk, 
which was a siugle block of plain granite, 60 feet 
long, when brought here by the Romans; it re- 
mained on the ground till set up, in 1676, in honour 
of Louis XIV., with a pedestal and lions, and a 
globe and sun, for an apex, added to it, making a 
total height of 60 feet. 

The Roman Amphitheatre is in pretty good con- 
dition. It is an oval, 338 feet by 460, in three stages 
of about 60 arches each, chiefly in tlie Composite 
style. It had four principal entrances, with up- 
wards of forty rows of seats, and would hold above 
25,000 persons. Two later towers have been built 
on it. The interior has been cleared out, and a 
light railing erected round it, to preserve it from 
injury. Here a real Bull-Jight was performed in 
1853, by artistes from Spain. Near it and the old 
house of La Mis^ricorde, are some arches of a vast 
Roman Theatre ^vf\it\ tvro columns ot breccia marble 
on the site of the stage, remains of seats, and a 
gate, not far off. In Place St. Lucien, of du Forum, 
the site of the market place, are two granite pillars 
of a Temple of Minerva, near the Hotel du Nord. 
and some other fragments, supposed to be of the 
Pantheon. Ruins of an Aqueduct are also seen. 
The Tour de la TrouiUe, near the old house of the 
Grand Prior of Malta, was built, they say, by Con- 
stantine. In some respects Aries looks more like 
a decayed Eomitn town tban any other place in 
Franee. 



St, Anne's old church, now the Museum, contains 
a good collection of bas-reliefs, busts, altars, grave- 
stones, of the times of the lower Empire (from 
Alyscamps), and a famous head of Diana. The 
public Library numbers 1 2,000 volumes. There is a 
school of navigation, with a college. Good walks 
on the Lice (i.e., Lists) promenade, by the Craponne 
canal. 

Notre Dame de Grace church, with its eight- 
sided steeple, stands in the old Roman Cemetery, 
called Alyscamps, or EUscamp (Campus Elyslus), 
where many ancient gravestones remain, on a hill 
outside the town, now occupied by the railway work- 
shops. The Pagan tombs are marked by ""'D, M." 
("Diismanibus"); the Christian, by the cross. On 
another hill are tlie ruined Church (partly as old as 
the 10th century) and cloister, tlie machicolated 
tower (built 1369), 85 feet high, and St. Avix, or 
Crucifix, ciiapel (in shape of i Grefek cross, built 
1019), all belonging to the Abbey of Mont Majeur, 
On the Montagne des Cordes are traces of a Celtic 
town. Les Baux is a deserted town, with several 
ruined houses cut out of the rock, and an old castle 
It was built by tlie « Three Kings,'* and blown 
up by Louis XIII. 

Tlie Emperor Constantine's son was born here. 

Manufactures of silk, soap, brandy, good sausages 
and a trade in corn, wine, oil, maaiia, salt, wool, 
cattle, and horses. Conveyances: By coach to' 
St. Louis, Ac; rail to Luuel, Aix, <fcc.; steamer to 
Marseilles. 

[Aries to Lunel, ice, by rail. It passes 

La Camarffne (3\ mlles\ on the Camargtu, 
. or delta of the Rh6ne, below Aries; a salt 
marsh, full of lakes, where the pelican, fla- 
mingo, and beaver breed, and vast numbers 
of horses and cattle, and ldD,000 sheep, are 
pastured. In the hot season the sheep are 
driven up the hills, with a file of goats at their 
head. One part, called the Ciau, is a desolate 
fiinty plain, without tree or shade; across 
which the mistral blows with terrible keen- 
ness. There used to be a saying, that the 
Durance, the parliament, and the mistral were 
the three cm-ses of Provence. " It is difficult to 
give, " says TroUope, " an adequate idea of the 
detestableness of the climate under the influ- 



r 



116 



BRAD8HAW S ILLUSTRATED 



ence of this scourge. The same sun is shiuing* 
in the same brij$ht blue sky, but the temperature 
is glacial. The boisterous blast chills the very 
marrow bones. The whole air is so full of 
dust that it is impossible to stir out without 
getting the mouth and nostrils filled with it. 
The inhabitants hurry tlirough the bleak 
streets, cowering, as best they may, under their 
hooded cloaks. The Rhdne is blown into white- 
crested little waves. And all this may very 
likely continue for the next week, or mouth, 
perhaps." 
St. Ollles (^f miles), on the Beaacaire Canal; 
with a fine abbey church; a good trade in wine. 
Population, 5,947. See page 134. 

GalUcian (7 miles). 
Le Cailar m miles). 

AimaXSUeS (2 miles). Both these places are 
also on the line from Nlmes to Aigues-Mortes. 

MarsiUargUes iH mile), in a dull spot, on the 
Vidourle, noted for its wines and alcohol, and 
having a Castle, built 1623, with Diana of 
Poicliers' cypher upon it, and many portraits 
of the Calvisson family, to whom it belongs. 
The annual errades, or meetings for baiting 
and marking the wild bulls from the Camar- 
gne, offer great sport here. 

Llincl (3 miles) on the line from Nlmes to Mont- 
pellier and Cette (seo Route 30).] 

[Sail from Aries to St. LouiS du RhOne, 26 
miles, a new and rising town on the sea coast.] 

Leaving Aries by the Aliscamps Railway works, 
we cross the plain by a viaduct of 2,626 feet, on 31 
arches. The arches of the Craponne canal (named 
after its constructor, in the 16th century) are seen. 
It is used for irrigating the arid soil of the plain of 
Crau, over which the line passes. 

RapliMc (4f miles), with the very old Ctutle of 
Baux, on the left. 

St. Martin iH miles). Entressen (7.) miles), 

in the midst of the desert. 

Mlramaa (3 miles), and its old Castle. Here 
the rail from Cavaillon (page 113) comes in. The 
great Marseilles Aqueduct is seen now and then. 
Branch rail of 16 miles to the Gulf de Fos, in the 
mouth of the Rhone, via Rassuen FOB, and 
\9 BOUO. 



[Sec. 3. 

St. Chamas (3 miles), a small port on the 
Etaiigde Berrc (13 miles long), having a Roman 
bridge, called PorJ Julien, of one arch, 70 feet 
long (besides the cross arches at each end). There 
are large government powder factories, and an old 
church, on a ridge which divides tlie town into two 
parts, connected by a tunnel. Population, 2,319. 

Here the hills appear again. 

The uneven valley of the Touloubre is traversed 
by a picturesque Viaduct, 1,263 feet long, and at 
a height varying from 26 feet to 82 feet. It rests 
on 49 Gothic arches, formed by interlaced semi- 
circles, with the solid mass above each pier hol- 
lowed out for the sake of lightness. Cross the 
Arc, to 

Berre (8f miles), in a pleasant but marshy part 
of the lagoon, or Etang de Berre, with a good 
trade in oil and almonds. Population, 1,696. 

Another viaduct on 6 arches, to 
Rognac (3i miles), in a fertile plain, near the 
same lagoon. 

Here the branch rail to Aix turns o3 (Route 37). 
The main line passes over, the Grande Beaume 
and Baou viaducts to the hill of 

Vitrolles (3| miles). Here is a Hermitage on 
the site of an old castle, at top, which gives aa 
extensive prospect. Several cuttings, and the 
Gadi^re viaduct on seven arches, bring us to 

Pas-dd-Lanciers (2 miles). Another deep 
cutting leads to the Tunnel of La Nerihe, the great- 
est work of this kind in France, exceeding Blaisy 
tunnel by l,76d feet. It is 33 feet high, and 15,213 
feet, or nearly three miles long ; and ventilated by 
22 shafts, one of which is 607 feet deep. It cost 10^ 
million francs. The Afediten'anean appears soon 
after with the splendid panorama which surrounds 
Marseilles. Here a branch turns off via Marl^- 

xiane, &c., to Uartigues (population, 5,9is), a 

fishing port in the mouth of the Etang de Berre 
(above), near Port de BOUC. 

L'EstaQUe (6 miles), near the Roman Pyramid 
of Penelle, is followed by the viaducts of Riaux (6 
arches) and Ch&teau-Follet (6 Gothic nrchcs), a 
deep cutting, an embankment 66 feet high, pro- 
tected from the sea by a solid wall, another timnel 



Koute 20.] 



HAXD-BOOK TO FRAKCE, 



117 



(St. Louis) of 1,510 feet, niul a viaduct across tl:e 
l-retty valley of Ay glades, and at length the large 
and handsome DJbarcadere, near the old cemetery, 
G\ miles from L'Estaque, commanding a fine view 
of the city and the .Mediterranean. 

MARSEILLES {French, Marseille), 

218 miles from Lyons, 536 from Paris, 720 miles 
from Calais, about 810 miles from London. 

roruLATioN, 403,749. About 7,000 Italians. 

Hotels.— Grand Hotel Noaillcs, Kue Noailles, 
Cannebiere Prolongde.— A large and first-rate 
hotel, combining superior accommodation with 
moderate charges. 

Grand Hotel du Louvre et de la Taix.— A very 
fin« new hotel, in a good situation, and affording 
extensive accommodation. 

Grand Hotel (formerly Grand Hotel Marseille), 
first-class hotel, centrally situated near the station. 
Affords every modern comfort. See Advt. 

Grand Hotel Beauvan. 

Grand Hotel de Geneve. 

Grand Hotel de rUnivers ct de Castille; de la 
Paix; Luxembourg, 26, Rue St. Ferr^ol; Ambas- 
sadeurs 8, Rue Beameau. 

Maison Dor^e, Cafe Restaurant. 

Railway Stations ~1^ ear the Arc de Triomphe; 
near J 'lace CasleJlane; Bassin des Entrepots 
(Dock Station). Connection open between St. 

Charles, La Blancaxde, and the Frado. 

Funicular Railway to Notre Dame de la Garde. 

Omnibuses run to all parts of the city from the 
station. Sleam Tramways to I'Estaque and St. 
Louis. 

Resident English and American Consuls. 

English Service at the church, Rue Sylvabelle, 
aud at the English Sailors' Home, 20, Rue Mazenod. 

Sea Btths, on Bassin d'Arenc, l.J fr., iucludin*' 
omnibus ; lodgings, 6 to 7 fr. per day. 

Post and Tdegarph Office, Rue Colbert. Tele- 
grams addressed "Bureau Restant," are delivered 
here only. 

Submarine Telegraph to Algiers. 

Time from London, about 30 hours. 



i^ Chief Objects op Notice.— Harbour— 
Prado— The Canr.cblfe c— Hotel de Ville - Consigne 
—Docks— Triumphal Arch— Cathedral — Museum 
and Gallery- Crystal Palace. 

This large city is the capital of department 
Bouches du Rhone (wliich was part of Provence), 
head-quarters of a military division, seat of a 
bishopric, &c., a consulate, and the chief port and 
packet-station in the Mediterrunean. It stands 
about 27 miles east of the delta, or mnuths of the 
Rhone, in the Golfe du Lion (i.«., of the Lion— not 
Lyons, as it is usually called), aud 450 miles from 
Algiers, the settlement of which has greatly stimu- 
lated its prosperity. It is the oldest place in France, 
or in western Europe, having been founded as far 
back as 600 e.g., by Greek settlers from Phoca5:i, 
in Ionia, under their leader Euxenus, who called it 
Massalia or Massilia. From hence they colonised 
Nicea (Nice), Antipolis (Antibes), Agatha (Agde), 
and other little republics; while the mother city 
increased in power and fame, in spite of the 
jealousy of Athens and the Carthnginians. It wns 
taken by Hannibal, punished by Cajsar for siding 
with Pompey, ravaged by the Visigoths (a.d. 483), 
the Bm-gundiuns, Ostrogoths (-588), the Saracens 
(735), and at length came to the Counts of Provence, 
1257. Alphonsoof Arragon sacked it, 1421, and held 
it for two years; but it revived under le Bon Roi, 
Ren^o/Anjou, who died here, 1480. In his time it 
was nofod for its soap and glass-works, its furs and 
hides. Under Louis XL it became part of France ; 
the Duke of Guise occupied it for Henry IV. ; Louis 
XIV. entered it through a breach in the walls, in 
token of his displeasure for its resistance to him, 
and curtailed its political rights. It was ravaged 
by the plague 1530, and again by the Great Plague 
of 1720-21, when 40,000 or 50,000 out of 90,000 were 
carried off, and Bishop Belzunce Chevalier Rose, 
and others exerted themselves so admirably. At 
the Revolution it supported the Girondist party 
with great fervour, and was, therefore, visited witii 
the bloody vengeance of the Terrorists, who sent 
Frt'ron and Barras here to purge the city. The 
fan:>us Afarseillaise song, to which it gives name, 
was composed at Strasbourg, by Rouget de Tlsle, 
and first sung here at a banquet given to the 
Deputy, Barbaroux. 

As seen from Vlstc hill, for example, on t^ 



J 



wk 



BRAD8HAW*9 ILLU^RATEI) 



[Sec. 3. 



road, Marseille^ appears most Impplly placed in a 
pictaresque and convenient spot at the bottom of 
a natural inlet, which openu rigiit out to the Medi- 
terranean ; Ihnestone hills rising gradually all 
round, to a height of 550 feet in some parts, with a 
clear and beautiful sky overhead. Thousands of 
tKistides (as they call the country-seats here) dot the 
sides of this amphitheatre, and numerous gardens 
of vines and olives arc dispersed about; but the 
poll being white and dry, it is excessively hot in 
summer ; then, gnats and mosquitoes bite, the keen 
north-west mistral blows, and perhaps a scorpion 
may. be found in one's bed. The aspect of the 
country Is however much improved by irrigation, 
for which water from the Canal furnishes supplies. 

The town surrounds the harbour like a horse- 
shoe; the oldest part, with its narrow dirty streets, 
l)eing on the north side, while the modern and 
better built quarters are on the east and south. 

A wide street, called Rue de la R^pubUque, 
throfigh the old part, h.is effected a great improve- 
pient. The more modern quarters on the cast and 
^outh are well laid out. The Prado, in a line with 
the Porte d'Aide, Rue do Rom^, and Place Castel- 
iane, is one of the finest avenues in France. It is 
joined near the race-course by Chemin de Ceinture, 
a beautiful road running from the Chftteau du 
Pharo, under the hill of Notre Dame de la Garde, 
along the side of the Mediterranean Sea. The 
Cannebibre and the Rue de Koailles i-unning 
nearly cast and west are bustling and frequented 
thoroughfares. The Marseillafs are very proud 
of the Cannebibre, and are accustomed to say : " Si 
Paris avalt La Cannebi^re, Paris serait un petit 
Marseille.** The Jardin Zoologiqne is a fine 
promenade with good views. In Cours Belzunce 
is Ramns's bronze statue of good Bishop Belzunce, 
•et np 1863. He figured in the plague of 1720. 

Most of the Places (or squares) and Promenades 
are ornamented with Fountains^ supplied by subter- 
ranean cuts from the Hnveaume, ftc, and the great 
Canal from the Durance. That of Place St.Ferr^ol 
was raised to the memory of those excellent per- 
sons who attended on their townsmen in the great 
plague. One in Rue d'Aubagne is actually dedica- 
ted to '*■ Homer, by the dueendanU of ike Phocaeant;'' 
another stands in Place Royale. That in Place des 
""-iatfants is a black marble obelisk, 28| feet high, 
•^ lions. The Fontaine de Puget, In Rue do 



Rome, Is a little pyramid placed before the old 
house of this Marseillaise architect and painter, 
whose works once served to adorn his native city, 
but were swept away afterthe Revolution. He was 
known In England as the builder of Montag'ue 
House, the old British Museum. Place de Lenche 
was the site of Roman baths. The large Place St. 
Michel^ or Champ de Mars, a Roman site, is now- 
ornamented with a bMittj In the midst of which au 
island darts up njet o/water 164 feet high. 

Thelarge Corinthian TrUimphalArch, at the Porte 
d'Aix, was begun, 1823, in honour of the Due d*An- 
gon16me, bat remained unfinished till the Revoln- 
tlon of July, when It was dedicated to the " military 
glory of France." M. Penchard Is the architect. 
The figures of Courage, Resignation, Prudence, 
Foresight are by David d'Angers. 

The Bdtel de Ville, a small building, of no parti- 
cular merit or character, has bas-reliefs on its front, 
with Pugct's bust of Louis XIV., and a Latin in- 
scription ; on the staircase, a statue of Liberty, and 
some pictures In the hall. The Bourse^ or Ex- 
change, is a handsome pile, bnllt 1860, in Rue de 
Canneblcr^, near the head of the Old Port. In 
front i) a statue of Paget, erected 1857. 

The Prefecture, in Rue de Rome, on one side 
of a wide court, has two fapades, and is one of the 
largest public structures in the city. It was built 
by Roux, a rich banker of the last century, who 
died Marquis of Brae, after impoverishing his for- 
tune by making war, on hit own account, against 
England, because one of his ships had been in- 
sulted. On this occasion he Issued a manifesto, 
beginning with — " George Roux to George Roy," in 
the style of Ancient Pistol. Near this is the Post 
Ofiice, the Palais de Justice, with nothing to distin- 
guish it. The now Prisons, built 1828, are at Porte 
d'Aix. 

Among the market places, or ITaVet, are the Fish. 
Market, and the Flower Market ; Halle Neure " 
(new), rebuilt 1801, on the site of an older one. 
The Abattoir has been removed. 

Most of the churches are plain buildings. The 
new Cathedral^ In the Byzantine style, on the Quai 
de la Rive, replaces one on the site of a temple to 
the ** great goddess Diana," whose worship the 
Greeks brought here. St. Victor, now the oldesti is 
near Fort St. Nicholas and the Carduagc basin, on 



Route i20.] 



^ 



HAND-pOOK TO FRANCS. 



no 



the south of the old Fort; it stands over the burial- 
place of an early martyr, which became the site of 
' "  '_' * '^- "^ r nnt i inr 



1,8W M9S., open every day, cxceptlnjr Sunday; ' snffron. 



a Museum of Natural History i a Picture Qoltery, of 
about 140 paintings of the French school (89 speci- 
^^^is^Sy^uget, ge rre, and others) , Italian and 

 »c.) The 
y, with its 
mrcophagi, 
I end of the 
« the Canal 
, is the new 
established 
ospect. 
rden, in the 
.0, contains 

lire, with a 
>n of Paris, 
mase^ stands 
*alace (burnt 
!3oncert Hall 
Baths at the 
oucas Blanc, 
vapour, and 
the Mediter- 
8, behind the 

r Places de !a 

mal stands in 

D road to Fort 

.pies the most 

»45 feet high. 

Chapel of the 

t I. built the 

multitude of 

At the Fete 

carried about 

braces a beaii- 

t, the £ea, and 

way from the 

St. Nicholas, at 

e Fort St. Jean 

' the Kni^'hts 

rlior tower by 

;j; tercel. Close 

c £col€ de Mede' 

.'here are many 

bratcd for their 

flavoured witli 



118 



fiRADSHAw's ILLUSTBATEb 



[Sec. 3. 



rbad, Marseille? appears most happily placed in a I Rome, is a little pyramid placed before t he old 
picturesque and convenient spot at t he bottom of j house of this Marseillaiae ayc hiiafl^M^^JiB^ ^ J 
a natural inlet, w] 
^errancan ; lime" 
round, to a heigh 
clear and beautil 
Pastides (as they c. 
sides of this ampl 
of vines and oliv 
^oil being' white & 
summer ; then, gn 
north-west miitrUi 
may he found in 
copntry is howevt 
ifor which water U 
The town surro 
■hoe; the oldest pa 
l^eing on the nort 
better built qaarC 

A wide street, 
throfigh the old pa 
pent. The more r 
^outh are well laid 
the Porte d'Aide, 1 
lane, is one of the 
joined near the rac 
a beautiful road ] 
Pharo, under the li' 
along the side of 
Cannebi^re and t 
neifirly east and we 
thoroughfares. T! 
of the Cannebl^re, i 
Paris avalt La Ca* 
Marseille," The 
promenade with go 
is Ramns's bronze st 
•et np 1863. He fig 

Most of the Placet 
ere ornamented wltl 
ranean cuts from th< 
Canal from the Dura 
was raised to the n: 
sons who attenj'- ' 
plague. Op 
tedto"Hr 
another r 
Faintf an 
on four 



, 88i feet high, 
get, in Rue dc 



Greeks brought here. St. Victor, now the oldest, i' 
near Fort St Nicholas and the Cor<?nagc basin, on 



Route i20.] 



HAND-pOOK TO FRANCE. 



U!) 



1 



the south of the old Port; It stands over the burial- 
place of an early martyr, which became the site of 

I. a rich abbey, founded in the 6th century. It !s 
Romanesque for the most part, and has ciypts of 
the 11th century (one of which was re-opened 1857), 

I with Pope Urban's two towers, built 1850 ; and an 
Image of the Madonna, to which the people came 
to pray in long seasons of drought. Pilgrim 
Ghurch of Notre Damt de la Garde, with a Fort of 
the same name, on a hill 500 feet high, accessible 
by funicular rail. St. Vbicmi de Paul is in the 
All^s des Capucins. Kotre Danu du Mont, re- 
built 1822, except its old clock-tower, contains 
pictures by Serre, with good carved work in tlie 
the choir, (fee. That on Mont Garmel, near the 
Triumphal Arch, has a good prospect. A new cir- 
cular church stands close to the Flkhe des Accottles, 
which overlooks tlie town, and is tiie tall Roman- 
esque clock-tower of a large church pulled down at 
the Revolution. There is another at a little dis- 
tance from it. The Chapelle du Chateau Babou 
belonged to a castle on the site of Fort St. Jean. 
A pretty Chapel of the 17th century, called the 
Madeleine, or Chartrcux, out^de the town, has a 
good nave, and light campanile towers. There are 
Protestant and Greek churches, the former in Rue 
de Grignan, near the Jews' Synagogue. 

B6tel Dieu, or Hdpital dp St. Esprit, behind the 
Town-hall, was founded 1188, and is a large irregu- 
lar mass in the heart of the old city, having beds 
for 660, and a chapel built, 1600. La Charite, near 
it, founded 1640, for 850 old people and orphans, 
forms a court, in which stands an oval chapel, by 
Puget, with a dome. Among the other charitable 
institutions are the two hospices of St. Joseph 
and St. Lnzare : the asylums for Alienes Ounatics) 
and for the Deaf and Dumb (soiirdi-muets) ; the 
former, a large building in Avenue Bailie. The 
new Military Hospital is in Rue de Lodi. 

Most of the learned societies are established In 
the old convent of the Bernardines, in Boulevard 
du Musde, which has several long galleries in it, a 
tower and a cruciform church, crowned with a dome. 
Here are the Ecole des Beaux Arts, and the 
College or High School. The handsome Palais de 
Longchampt, built 1870, contains a large public 
BibUothique, or library, of 90,000 volumes and 
1,800 M8S., open evcrj' day, excepting Sunday; 



a Museum of Natural History; a Picture Qallery, of 
about 140 paintings of the French school (89 speci- 
mens, Sy Puget, Serre, and others), Italian and 
Flemish schools (Rubens* Boar Hunt, Ac.) The 
Museum of Antiquities at Chateau Bor€ly, with its 
cabinets of Greek and Roman busts, sarcophagi, 
inscriptions, &c., and of coins, is at the end of the 
Prado, near the Zoological Gardens, where the Canal 
de Roquefavour comes in. Here, also, is the new 
Observatory. A school of Navigation is established 
in the Observatory, which has a fine prospect. 

The Jardin des Plantes, or botanic garden, in the 
Chartreux quarter, opened since 1810, contains 
many exotics, Including an orangery. 

In Place Royale is the Grand Th4dtre, with a 
portico of six columns, like the Od^on of Paris, 
built 1787. Tbtf&tre Francais, or Giimnase, stands 
near the A116es de Mellhan. Crystal Palace (burnt 
1882), In Rue duThdfttre, including a Concert Hall 
and Rink, Hippodrome, and Casino. Baths at the 
Hotel Victoria, on tiie Prado; at the Roucas Blanc, 
on a large scale, including hot, cold, vapour, and 
mineral baths, and open swimming in the Mediter- 
ranean ; and at the Hotel des Catalans, behind the 
Imperial Palace. 

The Gendarmerie Barracks arc near Places de la 
Porte d'Aix and du Terras. The Arsenal stands in 
Cours du 4 Septembre, not far from the road to Fort 
Notre Dame de la Garde, which occupies the most 
commanding point above the city, 545 feet high. 
It Is so called from a pilgrim's Chapel of the 
18th century, round which Francis I. built the 
fortress, and is still crowded with a multitude of 
curious votive gifts from sailors. At the F6te 
Dieu, its image of the Bonne Mfere is carried about 
in procession. The prospect here embraces a beau- 
tiful panorama of the city, the coast, the sea, and 
Islands. There is a funicular railway from the 
centre of the city to the top. Fort St. Nicholas, at 
the entrance to the old Fort opposite Fort St. Jcaji 
(the chapel of which belonged to the Knights 
of Malta), was built round an earlier tower by 
Louis XIV., and has been lately restored. Close 
by is the Chftteau du Pharo, now the £cole de Mede- 
cine, and very much altered. Near here are many 
restaurants and guinguettcs, celebrated for their 
bouillabaisse, a sort of fish-soup, flavoured -^'^^^ 
salfron. 



120 



fiRAbSHA>Y^S ILLUSTllATBP 



[Sec. 3-. 



Tlic old Harbour, or Port, forms an oblong 
of 3,080 feet by 980, or about 70 acres, and is 
extremely sufc, though the mouth is narrow. It is 
generally crowded with shipping, of which it will 
hold 1,23(\ with water deep enough for those of GOO 
tons. A great disadvantage is, that the ebb and 
flow of the tide being very small, llio stench of tlie 
sowers opening into it is constantly felt; but tiiis 
has been much remedied by sluicing it with the 
surplus water brought down by the city aqueduct. 
It is lined with narrow quays, where all the 
costumes and languages of the Medltcn-ancan may 
be seen and heard. 

On the south side, or Rive Neuve, are the Custom 
House and magazines, with a canal running round 
them, the place-aux-huiles (oil stores), ship yards, 
stores for soap, bones, <fec. Along the opposite side, 
or Qnai du Port, you see the Conslgne or Board of 
Health, tite fish market, the IJoUl de Ville, stamp 
office, bazaar, shops for ship chandlery, <bc. At 
the Conslgne are some noticeable pictures, &c. — 
Pttget's Plague of Milan (a bas-relief) ; Gerard's 
Pktgtte at Marseilles ; II. yGvnGfs Scene during the 
Cholera ; and David's St. Roch praying for the Vic- 
tims of the Plague. A wet dock, or Bassin do Car^- 
jiage, lies just outside the harbour, on tlie south, 
close to Fort St. Nicholas, which guards this side of 
the narrow entrance, the opposite side being 
guarded by Fort St. Jeau. The new Harbour, on 
the north, has been taken, as it were, out of the 
Mediterranean, and is Joined to the old Harbour 
by a canal inside Fort St. Jean, from the Basshi 
de la Joliette, the first of the new docks. The 
next is the Bassin de TEntrcpot, where the sea- 
side branch of the railway comes in ; then comes 
the Bassin du Nord, beyond which a still larger 
dock is making. These docks are protected by a 
digue, or breakwater, and are lined wiih fine 
quays and bonded warehouses. On the Quai de la 
UiYC, insiJc the Bassin do la Joliette, is the new 
Cathedral. 

About two miles west of the harbour Is the lie 
d^If, and the fort of Francis I., in which Mirabeau 
was confined. A little beyond it are tw o larger 
'fortified islands, Pomigue and Raionneau, joined by 
A causeway 980 feet long, making the quarantine 
port of Dieudonnd (God-given), where 200 vessels 
mav "o "'»'•» <^«esar*s fleet anchored when he took 



' Marseilles; and, at the prcscut iLiy, when a fooHsh 

' man forgets himself, tlioy call liim "Roide Rnton- 

ncau," in allusion to the story of a poor lunatic 

soldier, who assumed the title of king;, and turned 

the guns on hU comrades, in 1705. 

For sanitary purposes, there are a Lazaretto, 
where infected persons are fumigated ; and the 
Con^ignc, or quarantine oflicc, in tite harbour. A 
large Cemetery is laid out beyond the city, near 
the railway station. An abundant supply of 
water is now brought in by the great Canal cut 
from tho Durance, 25 miles off. It is the work of 
M. Montricher, and passes through several tun- 
nels, and along the groat Aqueduct of Rochefavour 
(1,200 feet long), over the Arc, coming into the 
city at a point 400 feet above the sea. 

Large new abattoir and cattle lager. 

The Customs duties of this port rise to a fourth or 
fiHth of all those collected in France. Here the gal- 
lej's of Franco were constructed before the forma- 
tion of the port of Toulon. 

In the Suburbs are the villages of St. Genie, 
Capelcttp, St. Pierre, La Madeleine, Chartreux, St. 
Charles, Bnrthdiemi, St. Just Passet, Belle de Mni, 
Bon Sdcours, Canet, and others; some of them 
seated on the little rivulets, Huveaumc, Jarre«, 
Plombibres, and Aygladcs. The last has an old 
Castle on it ; and on the Huveaumc is the aqueduct 
of Ville-k-la-Pomme, with Chftteau BouUy, a fine 
seat near the sea, built by a Morscilles banker. 
The Valley of the Qiminos is remarkable for rugged 
grandeur. St. Pons, Masargucs, and Chaine dc 
rctoile arc worth visiting. Further off is the 
MadraguederE5tagne,vfhcrQ the large tunny fish 
is caught. Near it, a part of a Roman aqueduct 
may be seen ; also the Bouido, which spouts up 
after rain, and tlic Maoupasset, a scat of King 
Rend's, where they show some of his paintings. 
Wild fowl swann in the £tang dcMartigues; and 
at Christmas crowds of rportsraen go out to shoot 
wild ducks. A branch rail to the Sea Baths at 
Mont Prado was opened 1873. 

Puy de Afimel(7^ miles north-cast of the city), 
is noticeable for the- experiments made tliere by 
Baron Zach, tiie astronomer, for measuring the 
density of the earth. It has a grotto, much fre- 
quented for the views about it. 



Route 20.] 



,- MAXto-BOOK TO FRAKCE. 



121 



1 



. Whito, red, and Muscatel wines are produced in 
this c >rner of France. The language is a peculiar 
form of Provencal (or corrupt Latin), with a slight 
tincUiro ot Greek and Celtic. 

Pythcas, an early navigator, who sailed to Britain 
and Iceland, and to the Baltic from this place, was 
a native of it. In njodcrn days it reckons Puget, 
the sculptor and painter, and Barbaroux, a member 
of the Convention. 

Conveyances: By rail, to Alx, Toulon, Nice, 
Dragaignan, Mcntone, and Genoa. Steamers to 
Corsica (see page 123). 

. The French mail Steamers of the Mcssagerics 
Maritlmes run to China and Japan, Pondicherry 
and Calcutta, Mauritius, Naples and Alexandria, 
Levant, Constantinople and IJlnck Sea, Syria, and 
Algiers. A quarantine of five or si.\ days may 
sometimes cccur, against which the traveller 
should provide. 

The Boats of the Compagnie Marseillaise (Frais- 
sinct & Cic.) leave every Wednesday for Cannes, 
Nice (12 hours), and Genoa. Every other day for 
Cette ^8 hours). Every other day for Agde. On 
Wednesdays for Greece, Smyrna, and Constanti- 
nople. On Sundays for Genoa, Constantinople, 
and the Danube Ports. 

Several of these places are also reached by the 
Boats of Valdry and Co. ; whose steamers also run 
to Ajaccio, Bastia. Calvi, Palermo, and other ports 
in Cor^iea and Sicily. Those of the Compagnie 
de Navigation Mixtc run to the Algerian ports. Sec 
"Alphabetical List of Steamers," In Bradshatc's 
Continental Guide. 

I^OTJTE ^O— Continued. 
From .Marseilles, on the rail, to Toulon, the btations 
arc — 

La Fomme ; St. Marce. ; St. Menet ; La 
Penne ; Camp-Major ; as far as 

Aubagne (lO^ miles), a town of 7,885 souls, on a 
liill by the Iluveaume, with a ruined Chateau and a 
Ruinan bath in the neighbourhood. Its old name, 
Albania^ or Oubagno, was derived from the bare 
white rocks aroutul. Tl:c Abbe BartJielemy, who 
wrote the "Travels of the J^une Anachnrsis,' 
was a native. IIoteL -De Notre Djme. 

[A branch r..il of 11 miles to Valdonne, from 
which it is 14 miles by road to Ai.x.] 

The whole coast from Marseilles to Toulon is a 



succession of hilly ranges, naked and sterile. There 
are five tunnels between Aubagnc and Toulouse. 

Cassia (C miles), the Ca»'«jWa ^o»7tf«of Antoniiu's 
Itinerary, with a good port. Good Mufcrtiel wine. 

La Ciotat (6 miles), the Greek Ciharistef, is 
beautifully situated on the coast; in the first balf 
of the century a poor fishi'ig village, now the cl.ii f 
repairing dock of the ^Icssageries Company's 
Steamers. Coral fishery here. Short rail from 
La Ciotat (Gare) to La Ciotat (Ville) . 

St. Cyr (4^ miles), near Le Beausset, which has a 
trade in oil and wine. 

OUiOUleS (8f miles), near a wild, deep Pass, 
called the Gorges d'Ollioules {oUa, a plate), with a 
ruined castle over it. A good trade in immorielks 
is carried on here 

La Sesme, close to which is Les Taxnaris, a 

bathing place of some repute, with every accom- 
modation. 

Grand Hotel. Comfortable and well situated. 

At 3 miles from this is 

TOULON (41^ miles front Marseilles). 

Population, 77,747. 

Hotels.— Grand Hotel; Victoria; deUnivers; 
de la Place d'Armes. 

Pi.estaurants.—C9iit de Paris, Place du Cbamp do 
Bataille. Gibert and Moulard, the same place. 
Daumans, ditto. 

C'a/«5.— De la Marine, Militaire, and De Paris, 
Place de Champ de Bataille; De I'Europe. 

Resident Englisfi Vice-Consul. 

Post-Office, Rue Racine. 

The chief naval station in the Mediterranean, 
and a raariiimc prefecture (in department Viir), 
on a fine circular harbour or bay (called Trfo 
Martins, by the Romans), with a roadstead outside, 
and a picturesque range of naked hills behind. It 
is as old as the 10th century; was taken by ChMr?es 
v., in 1526; fortified in the 17th century, by 
Vauban; and besieged by Pi'ince Eugene and Sir 
Cloudesley Shovel, 1707. It was blockaded by the 
English fleet, 179 J, under Lord Hood, when 42 
ships were burnt or taken, and 15,000 royalists 
received on board as the republicans entered it, 
after a three months' siege, their success being due 
to the skill of Bonaparte, then a young officer of 
artillery. It is strongly defended by batte'* 
on all the commanding poiuta. 



122 



BRADSHAW'S ILLtJSTRATED 



tSec. 3. 



In ttie old town the streets are narrow and 
crooked, bat a new town has sprung up at the 
railway station, communicating with the old town 
by Cours Lafayette and Rue Chaudronniers. A 
wide Quay faces tiie Darse Vicille, or Commercial 
port, on the east; and here are the principal 
Cafds and shops. The Darse Neuve, or Military 
port, is on the west. It has a H6tcl de Yille on the 
quay, in front of which is Daumas's colossal Genius 
of Nayigation, and two carved caryatides, by Puget^ 
whose house is behind it, in Rue de Rome. Some 
of Puget's work is seen in the cathedral of Eglise 
Mqfeur. The other churches are Notre Dame and 
St. Louis. The maritime Prefecture stands on 
Place d' Armes, a large open space. There are also 
in the town acivil hospital, a college and blbliuth^que 
of 10,000 volumes, and botanic garden. 

The Port includes the Port de Commerce, or 
Ancienne Darse, constructed by Henry IV., with 
its long wide qual; and Louis XIV.'s Nouvelle 
Darse, or Naval Dock-yard and Arsenal, to the 
north-west, which has been greatly extended, and 
covers above 240 acres; it is joined to the old 
Darse by a turnbridge, while the mouth of both is 
shut up at night by enormous chains. At the 
entrance is an ornameiital gate, by Lange, 1738. 
There is also an Ateliers des Forges, or engineer- 
ing works, at La Scyne. 

Since the gr^t firo of 1B45, which destroyed 
£800,000 worth of property, there are five building 
slips, on which 15 ships may be constructed at once, 
»nd two of which, covered over, are 300 feet by €5|. 
Here are workshops, 90 blacksmiths' forges, steam 
saw mills, mast house, rope and sail lofts ; a general 
Magazine, 328 feet by 56, and three storeys high ; 
cannon foundry; a park of artillery; a salle d'armcs, 
or armoury; a Corderie or rope house, on 68 arches, 
•bout 1,100 feet long, begun by Vauban, and 
finished by Riquet, the planner of the Languedoc 
Canal ; a naval artillery school, founded 1822, with 
laboratories, models, lil)rary, <fec.; a surveyor's 
office, to which a school of design and library ai'e 
fittached ; and a na v^l Uustum, in three classes, viz., 
models of ships, machines, and general objects. 

On« r«lio here is the port admlrars ship, Le 
Uuiron, which brought Bonaparte from Egypt. 
Three graving dock* (bftslna de radonb) are n«ar 



the large Sagne, built for 4;000 for9ats or convicts, 
who have been removed. The new workshops for 
Steamers are in Castignean fanbourg. The entrance 
to the Inner Road is defended by Louis XIV.'s 
Qrosse Tour, and the modern batteries. The Outer 
Road is formed by the Peninsula of Sepet, having 
Cape Brun on one side and Cape Sepet on the 
other, while Fort Malgue commands both 
roadsteads. On a hill is the large Natal Hospital 
of St. Mandrier, coutainmg 3,000 beds. At Cape 
Sepetf a look-out well known to the English fleet in 
the great war, is the tomb of Admiral Lat^Miche- 
Trdvillc, near the Semaphore. He commanded the 
port when Nelson was blockadhig it, 1804*6. The 
Lazaret is near St. Mandrier. Toulon has benefitted 
by the colonisation of Algeria, the expedition for 
reducing whicli sailed hence in May, 1830. 

The rail is continued to Hy^res (vid La Garde 
and J«a Pauline). For Draguignun, Cannes, and 
Nice, see Route 25. 

[Hy^res (14 miles;, a whiter station, with a 
mild climate, oi| the slant of an amphitheatre, 
sheltered from the north by hills nearly 1,000 
feet high. It has orange and citron gardens, 
and a few date trees, with olives, mulberries, 
vines, tig, pomegranate, myrtle, Ac; with sea 
baths, a Maisou de Sant^, excellent botelp, 
pensions, shops, boulevard, and numerous 
villas and boarding-houses for invalids and 
visitors, who have been attracted hither of late 
years. Many villas Imve sprung up ampng 
the healthy pine woods at Costebelle aiul 
Sylvabelle, where the invalid may choose his 
own climate. Hotel de Ville; Old Church; 
Thdatrc; Casino; Racecourse. Great drainage 
improvements liave been made. In Place 
Royale stands a pillar to Massillon, the 
preacher, who was born here, with the statue 
of Charles, Count of Provence. In the old 
town are remains of a castle. Trade in wine, 
oil, and fruit. 

Population, 14,982. 

HoTBLs.— Grand Hotel des Ilesd'Or, qiagnificent 
first-class hotel, beautifully situated, with a 
splendid garden. £. Weber, proprietor. 

Grand Hotel d'Orient, first-class establishment, 
beautifully situated. 



^ 



Koute 20.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



123 



Hotel et Pension de rErmitagc, well situated in 
the Pine Forest. 

Hotel des Etrangers, good, and well situated; 
the same proprietor as of the Hotel du Louvre, 
AlliBvard-les-Bains. 

Hesperides Hotel and Pension, very good; Eng- 
lish house. W. Martin, proprietor. 

De8Amba8sadeurs,first-clas8hotel, well situated, 
and very moderate prices; d'Albion; Grand 
Hotel des Palmiers; de I'Europe; Grand 
Hotel du Pare. 

Grand Hotel de Chateaubriand. 

English Bank.-^U. J. Corbett A Co. 

English Church; and resident English Phiftieians. 

Excursions to the Maurettes.the Uoman port of 
Pomponiana; to Mont des Oiseaux and other 
points of view; and the I^lands of Hyfercs.the 
ancient Stoechades. 

Rail from Hyferes to St. Raphael (page 141), 
passing La Fonx, the station for 

St. Tkopkz, a pretty fishing town on the gulf of 
Grimaud. Traces of the Roman Hei-qtcJea 
Caccaftartaare found in tlic shape of inscriptions, 
columns, and coins. Population, 3,533. 

Lee 8ftU2» a'Hy^res is £ miles.] 

After La Pauline comes La Farl^de; then 
SolU^B-Pont (3f mlles\ on thp Gaprau. 
Cnere (Sf miles), among \ines and olives. 

CamOllles (7* miles), where the line from 

Aiz, Gardanne, Trets, and Brignoles (below) 

comes in. On the right is Garde-Freinet (ancient 
Fraxinetum), among the mountains, where the 
Saracens, or "Maures," built the stronghold of 
Freinot or Fraissinet, about 890, which they kept 
till driven out by Guillanme de Provence, in 973. 
It stood on a point of dilBcult access, commanding 
the passes used by pilgrims, where traces of it 
may yet be seen. 

[Brignoles (l mile north), a sous-prefecture in 
department Var, with 4,811 souls, in a fertile 
and healthy spot on the Calami, was once the 
second city in Provence, and carries on a trnde 
111 prunes, fruit, oil, soap, wine, and liqueurs. 
Raynouard, a writer on the poetry of the 
Troubadours, was born here. IIott'.'—Dela. 
Cloche d'Arg«ni.^ 



Plgnans and Gonfaron stations. 

Le Luc et Le Cannet, near a factory of 
Bohemia crystal glass. It is noted for its chestnuts. 

Vidauban (.'>5 miles), a pretty place among corlc 
trees, tfcc, on the Argons, which, at St. Michael's 
Chapel, on the road to Tholonet, falls over a rock 
in fine cascades. 

Les Arcs (3| miles), where a branch rf 8 miles 
turns off to DragUlgnan. (See Route 25.) 

The next stations are Le Muy (5 miles), RoQUe- 
brune (3f miles), <fec., to Fr6jUS (S miles), for 
which and continuat on to Nice, &c., see Route 25. 

From Marseilles to Corsica. 

Corsica, being French territory and containing 
the birth-place of the Bonapnrtes, It may be 
useful to give a short description of one or two 
routes In this island. Steamers from Marseilles 
every Thursday and Sunday for Bastia, and for 
Ajaccio, Ac, every Friday. A run of 170 to 180 
miles to the south-east brings you to the Oul/ of 
Ajaceio, about 10 miles in length and breadth, with 
good anchorage, and the most southerly but one of 
several fine, open, blue bays on the west side of 
Corsica, such as St. Florent or Fiorenzo, CoWI, 
Porte, Sagone, and Valinco. Population of Corsica 
(1891), 288,696. 

AJACCIO, 

(pronounced "Ayacheeo"), the capital of Corsica, 
at the head nf the Gulf, under a line of picturesque 
hills which shelter it Arom the east and north, is a 
favourite winter resort for invalids sufifering from 
asthma, bronchitis, &c., the seat of the prefect, 
bishop, &c., and is further distinguished as tlte 
place where Napoleon Bonaparte teas bom, 15ih 
August, 1769, according to ilie register preserved 
liero. Population, 20,197. 

Hotels. — The Cyrnos Palace Hotel, first class, 
with large orange garden. English comforts. 
Sec Advt. 

Hotel Continental; Hotel de France; Hotel du 
Nord; Hotel Belle Vue; Schwcizerhof ; Londrcs. 

Resident English Consul. English Resident Physi- 
cian. English Chaplain at a Church built by Miss 
Campbell. 

It was called Urcinium by the Romans, being noted 
for the making of earthen wiiic-botiles. B*'' 
1345 it stood lower down iu a marshy sit'' 



r 



124 



bradshaw's illustrated 



[Sec. 3. 



reninins of liuilJiiigs may be still seen. The town 
•WHS foun«led by the Genocbe, 1492, ami made the 
capital by Napoleon, ISU, at the request of his 
mother. The houses are yellow-look in,', with red 
tile roofs, in narrow steep streets; tha broa'.ei 
Boulevards are lin^d wiih acacias. Same good 
sh:)p3. Rue de Marche, one of the best streets, 
has a fountain and a marble Statue of Napoleon, 
in the Place, facing^ the quay. Here, also, is the 
Ho: el ('c Ville, with a library. In Place Bonaparte, 
or Cours Grandval, is a bronze equestrian Statue of 
the Emperor and his f .ur brothers, ctec'ed 18G5. 
The Cathedral, built 15S5, has a tower and dome; 
here Bonaparte wds baptised ; and here, his 
mother an(i her brother, Cardinal Fcsch, were 
buried. In Rue Fcsch is the Palais (a large 
building), founded by Cardinal Fesch. with a 
library of 25,0('0 volumes; and a col.ection of pic- 
tures (presented by King Joseph\ minerals, &c., 
and a bronze statue of the Cardinal. Close to it is 
the Chapelle Bonaparte^ to which the monuments of 
Bonaparte's Mother and Cardinal Fesch have been 
removed, f» om the Cathedral. Other buildings are 
the Pre'ecture and the new Hospice Eugenie, 
with the botanical gardens. The Citadel was 
built 1554, by Marshal de Themes. The climate 
is very mild (SS'-GJ" in winter) ; the oleander, 
cactus, and lemon tree arc seen growing. There is 
little rain, fog, or wind; snow rarely falls, though 
seen on the distant mountains, 20 miles off. 

Napoleon's House (Maison Bonaparte), in Place 
Letizia, which belongs to his mother's family, the 
Ramolini, is a plain, thrca-storeyed building, one of 
the best in the town; it is preserved in its original 
condition, and contains his bed-room, portaits, 
and a small cannon, about three feet long, and 
thirty- two pounds weight, which the future soldier 
used to play with. At the age of ten, his laiher, 
Carlo Bonaparte, a noble by descent from a Tuscan 
family, and assessor to the law courts ofAjaccio, 
sent him to the military school at Brienue. Curi- 
ously enough, his lirst piece of active service, as 
lieutenant of artillery, was to attack his native 

. town (February, 179 J), which Paul! held against 
the Convention. The family removed to Marseilles 

- in May of the same year, when the English took 
Corsica. 

Here were bom also his brothers, Lucien (1775), 



Prince do Canino ; Zom/s (1778), King of Holland 
and fiitlicr of the late Emperor, Louis Napoleon, by 
Hortense Beauharnois; /*n/Jf<;Jerom<', late Govcrnoi 
o  the Invalides, formerly king of Westphalia ; ami 
his? throe sisters Eliza (Duchess of Lucca), Caroline 
(Who mirried Marat, King of Naples), and Pauline 
(Prince s Bortflicjo). Josiph, Kng of Sp tin, w .8 
born at Corte (see below). His father, Carlo, and 
mother, Letizia, (1750) were also natives of this 
town. Another native was Pozzo di Borgo, the 
Russian statesman (born at Alata, close by) ; his 
family and Napoleon's belonged to the two opposite 
parties which divided the island. One of his 
descendants has built, near Ajaccio, a splendid 
residence out of the stones of the Tuileiies. 

Ill the neighbourhood stands a neglected country 
seat of the Bonapartes, the garden of which con- 
tains a granite rock, called Napoleon's Grotto— his 
favourite retreat. " When the family property was 
divided, his share was an olive yard.'* (Fokestbu's 
Rambles). There are also the tombs of a colony of 
Mainote Greeks, settled here by the Genoese, 167G. 

Excursions to St. Anthony's Chapel and Rocks; 
lies Sanguinaires ; Monte d'Oro and Sorba 
Forest ; Inzecca Go'ge. 

Driving Excursions,— From Ajaccio (8 a.m.) to 
1. CalcatOggiO (Hotel Belvidere) lunch; then to 
VlCO (Hotel de France) dine and sleep; leave next 
day 9 a.m. to Evlsa (Hotel Glgli) dine and sleep, 
drive before dinner to the Pine Forest of Aitonc ; 
leave next day 8 a.m. to Plana (Hotel Vcrsini) 
lunch; then to GargeSd (Hotel Belle Vue) dine 
and sleep ; leave next day 9 a.m. to Calcatoggiu, 
where lunch and reach Ajaccio ti dine. This is 
the favourite drive, Carriage, 20 francs a day, 
and 5 francs a day for coachman. 2. From Ajaccio 
to CaurO (Hotel de France) lunch; then to 
Bastelica (Hotel Firroloni), forest of Spanish 
chestnuts, house and statue of the patriot Sampiero ; 
dine and sleep. Leave next day 9 a.m. for Cauro 
(lunch) and dine at Ajaccio. N.B.— Telegraph 
beforehand for lunch, dinner, and bed, or you may 
come short. 

Railway to VivariO (pnge 126) on the road to 
CortO, passing through Caldaniccia, Mezzana- 
Sarrola, Caibuccia, Ucclani, Tavera, Bocognano 
(see page 125), Vizzavone, and Tattone. This will 
probably eventually be caigricd through to Corte. 



Route 20.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



125 



A good road is open to Bastia, about 152 kil. or 94 
miles long,inadcbj- the French soldiers,with another 
round the ishmd; both traversed by diligences. 

Travelling in the interior is best done by mule, 
as tlie rold often runs up and down nigged hills 
of granite and limestone, threaded by deep savage 
gorges, 80 difficult that they are called scale, or 
ladders, with brawling rivers at tbe bottom ; and 
through vast forests of pines, oaks, chestnuts, cork, 
boz, ilex, &e. The region of pines and oaks is 
next the snow line, which runs from 7,500 to 8,000 
feet above sea level. All the lower parts, down to 
the coast, arc covered with exuberant groves of 
olives, orange, lemon, figs, almonds, &c., and a 
thick underwood, or shrubbery, of aromatic plants, 
called maeehia or makis. The chestnuts, wliich 
grow to an immense size, and are found at the 
height of 5,000 and 6,000 feet, yield the chief food 
for the natives, who, with a bag of them and a gourd 
of water, arc independent of want. 

The men employ themselves in keeping flocks 
and herds, but arc too proud to work; this is left to 
the women, or to the industrious Italians, who come 
over every year, to the number of 6,000. Though 
iudolcnt, the Corsicans are a quick and Intelligent 
race, always ready to fight for their liberties, 
strong friends and strong enemies, and free and 
inquisitive in their manners. One of their chief 
amusements is boar-hunting. The mouflon, or wild 
sheep, an animal between a sheep, deer, and goat, 
exists here; foxes are plentiful, while hares, red 
partridges, and other game would furnish abun- 
dant sport. Carrying arms is forbidden. 

Like the old Scottish highlanders, they are prone 
to indulge in the vendetta or private revenge, which 
they transmit from father to son ; but the strong 
and efiectual measures taken by the French gov- 
ernment, especially the late prohibition of carry- 
ing arms, have greatly tended to diminish this 
crime. Previously, the murders were 160 a year; 
in the last century they reached 900 yearly. The 
men dress in a cap, with a short brown jacket and 
breeches; the women much in the Italian style. 
Their language is Italian, with a mixture of 
Moorisii and Spanish words. 

The villages, called paese, are not found on the 
unhealthy flats near the coast (which resemble the 
Roman Campngna), but are perched round the hill 
tops up the mountains, within a height of 1,700 feet, 



where the winter is not felt, and pomegranates, 
peaches, and tamarisk grow. But charming and 
picturesque as the villages appear at a distance, 
they are found on a nearer approach to be a con- 
glomeration of tall shapeless houses, frowning and 
black with age, w ith unglazed windows, guarded 
by iron railings, looking like the holds of banditti, 
while the filth of the purlieus is unutterable. 

The people are all devout Roman Catholics, be- 
lieving, of course, that there can be nothing good 
out of their church. When Boswell travelled here 
(1765), he relates, •' That while stopping to re'resh 
his mules, a strong black fellow in the crowd cried 
out, ^Inglesi! sono harhari\ non credono in Dio 
grande.' (The English are heathens; they don't 
believe in God). I said to him, * Excuse me, sir, 
we do believe in God, and in Jesus Christ too.' 
' t/m,' said ho, 'e nel Papa V (And in the Pope ?> 
'No,' 'Eperchkf (And why?) This was a puz- 
zling question in these circumstances, so I thought 
I would try a method of my own, and very gravely 
replied, * Percfie siamo troppo lontanV (Because we 
are too far off)." Tliis ingenious argument, he 
adds, perfectly satisfied the subtle querist. 

The road out of Ajaccio leads up the Gravone, 
which enters the Campo del Oro, a fertile pass 
between the main line of mountains, which run 
nearly north and south through the island. Tite 
first stage is 

Cabazzi (11 miles), having, some distance to the 
right of it (beyond the Prunelli), Cauro, near the 
Col St. Gorgio (2,600 feet high), with a fine pros- 
pect of Ajaccio. Fourteen miles further is 
Bocognano (StatlOD), in a deep gorge, 680 yards 
above sea level, near the head of the Gravone, 
among forests of chestuut. Hence you still ascend 
by a zigzag road to the top of the pass, which is 
4,000 feet above sea, and lies under Monte d'Oro (or 
Gradaccio), the Mons Aureus of Ptolemy, in Vizza- 
vona beech forest, at tiie centx'e of Corsica — a 
granite peak, 8,710 feet high, covered with snow 
nearly all the year, and whence there is a noble 
view of the whole island, of Sardinia and Elba, 
and even of the coasts of Italy and France. Monte 
Cinto is seen, 9,240 feet liigh, the highest point 
in the island ; Monte Eotondo is 9,070 feet; Monte 
Vagliorha is 8,695 feet; to the east is Mont Capella, 
and to the south, near Porte Vecchio, is Monte 
Calva. Several of the lower peaks are mica slate. 



r 



126 



BRADSUAW'S II^LUSTBATSD 



[Sec. 3. 



Iron and asbestos have been found. A bye-road 
tnrns oS to Bastelina, near the head of the Frunelli, 
with a pop\ilataon of 2,000. 

VlyariO (station), a fine spot, on the descent of 
the pass, 2,000 feet high, in the midst of pine forests, 
has a campanile church, and leares Mont Kotondo 
on the left, with its Icikes near the top, which are 
frozen all the year round. 

Corte (14 miles.) Population, 6,029. 

Hotels.— Hotel del'Europe, clean and moderate; 
Hotel de France, a cheap hotel. 

Corte, in a beautiful 8p6t, on a rocky height of 
mica, where the Restonica falls into the Tavignano, 
was the seat of Pcucal Paolfs government, when 
Boswell visited that virtuons patriot at his country 
bouse, Sollcuaro, near the sea side. He was bom at 
la Stretta, a hamlet of Morosagtia, near the road to 
Bastia; and was the son of Giacinto Paoli, a leader 
in the first revolt against the Genoese. Wheii the 
Corsican Assembly met here and proclaimed their 
independence, 1755, Pascal Paoli was chosen their 
general and leader, under the protection of 
England, whither he afterwards retired, the 
Genoese having sold the island to the French, 1768-9. 
lie came back in 1704-6, when it was again held 
by the English^ as part of the British Empire, 
under Sir G. Elliot, as viceroy ; but finally returned 
to England, and died there 1807. He was buried 
in St. Fancras old church, from which his remains 
were brought, 1867. His bron2e statue is in Place 
Paoli, the principal square, with those of Arrighi 
and Joseph Bonaparte. He founded an university 
at his house, the Palazzo di Corte, now styled a 
Ooliege (to which Boswell contributed Johnson's 
and Addison's works, and some of Foulis's classics); 
and established a newspaper and printing office. 
They slill show his study, and the window shutters 
lined with cork. A statue was erected 1868 to 
General Casanovcr, a native. The house of GaflTorl, 
the patriot leader against the Genoese, is also 
shown, with the shot holes still in it. The Ccutle 
is perched on a rugged and inaccessible rock, and 
was only taken by the French by starving the 
garrison. It commands a magnificent view of the 
valley, the gorges of the rivers, and the mountains 
around. Here Napoleon's eldest brother, Joseph^ 
was born, 1768, his father being then secretary to 
Paoli; who, it Is iaid, solicited the viceroy to find 



employment for the future Emperor in the English 
service. 

Monte Rotondo (9,070 feet) may be visited from 
Corte; also Soveria, on the Golo, the birth-place of 
Cervione, one of Napoleon's best generals*,. Alando, 
where Sambruccio, the patriot leader, was born ; 
and Niolo, a fine basin, approached by steep and 
difiicult passes. 

The Tavignano runs down to the east coast at the 
Torre di Aleria. At Bozzo, near Corte, the first 
revolt against the Genoese broke out, 1729, when 
the collector had seized the goods of a poor woman 
for fivepcnce taxes. Monte Albano (7^ miles). 

PoNTE-ALLA- Lecgia (5| milcs), at the bridge on 
the Golo (which runs white and milky), on the banks 
of which, at Borgo^ which the road passes, the Cor- 
sicans beat a superior force of the French, under 
Marboeuf, 1768; but they were finally defeated at 

PoNTENCovo (5 miles), in 1769, the year of 
Napoleon's birth. 

LuciMA (8 miles), near the Golo'smouth and the 
east coast, not far from YescovatO (Station)^ 
the seat of Coiahianca^ who, with his son, waa 
blown up in the Orient, at the battle of the Nile. 

BiGUGLiA (6 miles) is close to a narrow lagoon of 
the same name, 8 miles long, and abounding with 
fish and wild fowl. To the left of it is MwaM^ with 
a church shaped like a Tarkish mosque, built of 
black and white marble, by the Pisans. 

Bastla (5i miles). Population, 23,397. 

Hotels.— Hotel de France ; Hotel de la Europe ; 
Hotel du Nord. 

Resident English and Amet-ican Vice-Consuls, 

Telegraph, via Cape Corte, to Spezia. 

The seat of the supreme courts of the Island, 

andafortifiedtown,oppos!teItalyandE]ba,35 miles 
from the latter. The English bombarded It, 1745; 
and took It, 1794, Nelson aiding in the Agamemnon. 
It stands at the foot of some hills, on a little bay, 
which, with the help of a mole, makes a harbour 
for small craft, defended by a Genoese Tower. 

Bartolini's statue of Napoleon in Place St. 
Nicholas. The houses are in the Italian style, 
and the best buildings are the Cathedral church of 
St. John; Sta. Croce Chapel, a pretty structure ; 
a palais de justice, or cour imp^riale; college, of 
high school, with t^ library of S0,00^ volumes. 



Eoute 20.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FRANCB. 



127 



There is a fine view of Elba and its mountains, 
the table-land of Pianosa, Capraja, and Monte 
Cristo, and the Tuscan coast, especially from the 
mountain of Sierra dl Pigno (3,500 feet), close to 
the town. Monte Cristo, which now belongs to 
Mr. W. Taylor (Forester's Rambles)^ gives name 
to Dumas' well-known novel. From Bastia, the 
line of mountains stiikcs south- w.est, dividing the 
island, popularly, into di qua and di la dei Montis 
or, this side (east), and that side (west) of the 
centre ridge. 

Steamer to Marseilles, Leghorn, Nice. 

Railway from Bastia to Qmaonnacola, follow- 
ing the east coast, £S^ miles. The principal 
stations are Casamozaa, Prunete-Gervione, and 
Alerla. At Casamozza the line for Cozte (page 
126) diverges to the right to Poute-Iieocla^ 
whence a line runs in a north-westerly direction 
through Falasca, Belgodere, Isle Ronsse (below), 
Jkc, to Calvi (below). From Ponte-Leccia (above) 
the Corte line r«ns through Francardo, Omessa, 
and Soveria to Corte. 

A narrow peninsula, 7 miles by 22, stretches from 
bencd, north, to Cv^ Corso (the ancient Sacrum), 
traversed by a ridge of slate and marble, which is 
4,(40 feet high at Monte Btello, abcnt the middle of 
it, near the Grotto of Brando. At Olmeto (from 
olma, an elm). Marshal Sebastian! was born. On 
the west side of it, at 6 miles west of Bastia, Is 

St. FiosBUT, OB St. Fiorbnzo, which is well 
built, but unhealthy, with a good harbour or road, 
where the English squadron used to anchor In the 
war. It was taken by General Dundas and Sir J. 
Moore, 1794 ; and by Nelson in the Agamemnon. 
To the north of it are the towers of Farlnole and 
Negro, with another called Morteila, which fur- 
nished the original model for the Martello Towers 
on the Kentish coast. 

Further on are the towers of Sisco, and of Seneea\ 
the latter on a sharp peak, and so called after the 
Roman philosopher (though of a later date), who 
was exiled here by Claudius, and relieved his 
diicontent by writing a treatise on Consolation. 
He mentions the scorching heat of summer, and the 
sirocco winds, which bring sickness. Another wind, 
called tramonttma, blowtng from the mountains, 
brings snow; and therd It also a fierce gusty wind 
called the lion vind. 



Near Cape Corso is Porto Centaro, where Bos- 
well landed, 1765; struck, not only with the prospect 
of the mountains, covered with vines and olives, and 
the odour of the myrtle and other aromatics, but 
with the sight of the peasants, all carrying ai*ms. 
The first house he visited was Siguor Antonetti's, 
at Morosaglla, about a mile up the country. 

A coast road from St. Fioreozo leads past Monto 
Arazzo to He Rousse, or 

iBOlaRosaa (Station), a uttie town of i,958 

sonis, founded by Paoli, opposite an island of 
the same name, and now turned Into a fortified 
post. Here the Calvi steamer touches. The pass 
to Calv), over the Col di Tehda, is 4,620 feet high, 
near Mont Asto (5,000 feet). 

Calvi (about 12^milesfurther),on arockypointin 
the Gulf of Calvi, has a good harbour, and a large 
old Castle^ which Marshal de Thermos attempted 
to take without success. Population, 2,000. It wAs 
bombarded by Nelson, when he lost his right eye. 
The church has marks of English shot. 

Bastia, by St. Fiorenzo, or Ponte-alla-Leccla, 
the latter passing Belgodere and the beautiful 
Plain of Balagna. 

A winding road or path of about 37i miles, whic a 
sometimes bends deep inland, under Monte Pagli- 
orba (8,690 feet), Rotondo, and passes Yico (whence 
a road goes to Guagno Botha, a fine mountain spot, 
and Corte), brings you to 

Carqhbse, on the Gulf of Sagone, which belong! 
to about 700 descendants of the Greeki>, whom the 
Genoese brought over in 1676, and is the best culti- 
vated spot in the island. One of their little hamlets 
was called Paomia. The natives showed the most 
cruel jealousy towards them. At first they used 
the Greek, but. Since 1832, they have used the 
Roman liturgy. A convent of St. Basil, founded by 
them, was abolished by the Genoese. 

AtlSlmilesfartheronisAjaccio, described p. 128^ 

The road hence to Bonifacio is extremely in- 
teresting, being up and down mountain ridges and 
round the tops Of hills, with distant prospects of the 
sea. The first places you come to are Cauro and 
Col San Gorgio. About 18| miles from Ajaccio H 

St. Mabia, to the north-east of which are the 
Guitera Baths, near the head of the Taravo, which 
is full of picturesque scenery and old castles. Near 



1 



128 



BKADSIIAW'S ILLUSTRATED 



[Sec. 3. 



OLVKTO I« Miinte ButarctJo, 3,000 feet high, on 
^Ulch .t-nd the ruin, of Arrigo della Rocca. 

Further on wc pa- the Taravo, down wh.ch 

Jr another cattle hel,rM. 1. Sol^acaro a ^ot 

Tt whieh Bo«well had hi. first interview ^.th 

Paoli at an oid bouse of iho Colo.mas (where 

r>„ma-Uvsthefir.t «ene of ^-'--^---^^ 

ZZn "For ten minntea we walked baclcwards 

and forwardathrougrhtheroom hardly saying a 

word. trhUe he looked at me wiih a steadfii^t, keen, 

penetratiaff eye, a. if be searched my very aoal." 

This aoon wore off, and Ihey became exceUent 

frlenda. Boawell did hia beat to pleaae the Corsi- 

cana • went about in a Coraican drcaa " with an air 

of true aatisfaction," pUyed to them on hia flute, 

gang Italian and Scotch songs, and finished with 

rairick's "Hearts of Oak," which he translated 

ijito Italian f -r them, to their great delight. 

"Coore di qucrco," cried they, "bravo, Inglese! " 

It was quite a joyous riot, adds Boswell. The road 

now skirts ihc Gulf of Valinco to 

Saktexb (about 31 miles), near the river Valinco, 
which has a population of 5,615, living in granite 
houses, black with age. The Tallano wine pro- 
duced liere is the best in the island. It is drunk 
on the spot by the growers. Some good wine is 
irrown at Ajaccio and Cape Corso. The other Cor- 
sican wines are poor, though capable of great im- 
provement. Up the country is the M&nfe Incudine^ 
6 510 feet high, and its elevated pass, or col, which 
comes into view, with the Sardinian mountains. 
Ste. Lucia produces beautiful orbicular granite. 
At 19 miles from this is 

BonifftClO, a fortified town of 3,703 souls, perched 
on a high cliff at the south end of the island, hang- 
in «»• over a bay in the the Strait of Bonifacio, which 
divides Corsica from Sardinia. It is thought to be 
the site of Ptolemy's Plate, and was founded in 830, 
by the Marquis of Bonifacio, one of Charlemagne's 
jjecrs. Alphonso of Aragon long besieged it, 1421, 
and the French took It In 1563. It is a curious 
closely-packed place; hotels defective; tourists 
live on the steamers. Everything is carried up to it 
on the backs of asses and mules. Three old churches 
and an ancient tower. The sea has underminded 
the limestone clittshcre into deep cftves and grottoes. 
There is a strilting walk called the Rcdragon Stairs. 
0P a limestone valley, between high regular cliffs, 
tp the ruins of St. Julian's convent. 



Hotel: DuNord. 

Trade in coral, wine, and oil. Coach to Bastia 
and Ajnccio. Excursions to Porto and Piana 
Roclu. via Carghese. 

The islaisds of Pcrdiillo, Cavallo, Lavazzi, Jfcc^ 
lie in the Strait, which is 5 miles broad across to 
Pwint Lon:;osardo, near Porte Torres, where the 
Genoa steamer calls weekly. ** Aginconrt Sound/' 
near La Madalena, was Nelson's head-quarters 
during the blockade of Toulun. Sardinia is essen- 
tially different from Corsica in character, though 
only separated by a narrow strait. The coast road 
from this now turns north, past Gulf de Santa 
Manza, to 

PoBTO Vecchio (13} miles), or Old Port, on the 
bay of the same name, which makes a safe, deep 
harbour, 5 miles by 1^, in the midst of an unhealthy 
marsh, which, however, yield.« good salt. It is the 
(ENstum of Ptolemy, and is fortified. Here Paoli 
embarked on board an English frigate, in 1769, 
when obliged to leave the island, after the fatal 
battle of Pontenuovo, while his brother, Clement, 
retired to Yallombrosa. Pearl mussels are foand ; 
and granite is worked in the neighbouring hills, 
which, at Ifonte Calca, arc 5,130 feet high. It has 
a trade in the red wine of Sari, &c. Population, 
3,018. 

After this, you pass by an uninteresting road all 
the way, the towers of Pinarello, FucUo. Salenzara 
(at the mouth of a stream which comes down from 
Sari), Seposa, and others, which belong to a chain 
raised in past times by the Genoese, for securing 
their conquests, and for defending the coast against 
pirates ; and come to 

Torre di Aleria, at the mouth of the Tavignano (60 
kil. from Porto Yecchio). This marks the site of a 
toieer founded by the Dictator Sylla, now half a 
mile from the sea. On the tomb of the Scipios, at 
Rome, wo read, *' He took Corsica and the city of 
Aleria ; " or this place, from which a Roman way 
went to Paloe, near Bonifacio. A little north of it, 
at the Torre di Diana, is part of a temple, built by 
Marius, when he founded Mariana, between two 
lagoons, or sea lakes. Monte Capella^ 3,750 feet 
high, lies to the west. Ihe road hence passes 
Sta. Luciana, Torre S. Pelegrino, <fcc., for 60 kil., to 
Bastia, again. This fiat Wtorale is highly pes- 
tiferous in summer, but produces rich crops of 
grass and com. 



Route 21.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



129 



The circuit of Corsica thus made is upwards of 
420 kil., or 261 miles. Its greatest length Is about 
114 miles, and greatest breadth, 53; area, 8,880 
square miles; of the total population, about 32,860 
arc landed proprietors. 

Ptolemy called this island Coornos. It was occu- 
pied in whole or part by all the nations who suc- 
cessively figure in the history of the Kediter- 
raneau — the Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, 
Saracens, &c., and at length by the Genoese, 
who, however, held but a nominal possession for 
400 years, till 1729; when the natives revolted, 
and in 1736 placed a German adventurer, Theodore 
de Neuhoff^ who was page to the Duchess of 
Orleans, on the throne. He levied troops, coined 
money, and even created marquises, one of whom 
was Paoli's father. Being obliged to fly, he mort- 
gaged his little *' kingdom" to pay his debts, died 
in the King's Bench, 1746, and was buried in St. 
Anne's, Soho. The French, who at various times 
came to the assistance of the Genoese, acquired 
possession of it, as above mentioned, after 1769. 

ROXTTE Sl- 

Dijon to Auzonne, Gray, BOle, SaU^s, 
Besan90]i, Belfort, and tfulUouse. 

liy rail, 116| miles to Belfojrt ; four trains a day, 
five to six hours. 
Pljon Station, as in Bou^e 20. The next Is 

Magny-Bur-TiUo (8| miles). 

GenllS (3 miles), on the Tille. 
Collonges (2\ miles). 

AUZOnne (5| miles), a junction on the line 
between Chalon-sur-Saone and Gray. The prin- 
cipal stations from Chalon to Auxonne are St. 
Jean de Losne, Pagny, Seurre, and Allerey, see 
below. 

A uxonne, on the Sadne, in department Cdte d'Or, a 
military post, fortified by Vauban, 1676. Pop. 6.695. 
//o<e/— Uu Grand Cerf. It has an arsenal, bar- 
racks, powder magazine, Ac; and it was here that 
the sledges were made for Napoleon, when he car- 
ried his ordnance over the Great St. Bernard, in 
tiie winter of 1800. 
[St. Jean de Loans, an old village, in a green 
spot, down the 8a6ne, where the Canal' de 
liourgogne joins, and near the mouth of the 
Canal du Rhdne au Bhin. It sustained a hard 
siege in 1636. 
S£CKBB, 14 miles lower down the Saone, where it 
becomes navigable, has a population of 2,413, 
and « good trad<? in grain, wood, charcoal, «fcc. 
I 



The stations from Auxonne, on the line to Gray, 
are as under, all on the 8a6ne :» 

Lamarclio (7^ miles). PontaUler (3^ miies). 

Talmay (3$ miles), on the Vingeanne. 

SlantOCjie (6i miles), in department Haute- 
Saonc. Gray (3 miles), as in Route 62.] 

Following the main line from Auxonne, t)io next 
station is 

CliampyanB (3| miles). Then a tunnel, 940 
yiirds, and 

I>0l0 m miles), where the branch line to Sftlins 
turns oflf. A sous-prefecture in department ifura, 
pleasantly situated on the Doubs, near thp Cani^l 
du Bhdne au Rhin, with 9ome fine prospects round 
it. Population, 14,263. Tbe streets are steep. 
Besides remains of a Roman Amphitheatre and 
Aqueduct, it has an old I^dtel de Ville, Vergy Tower 
(now the prison), the College de I'Arc (which be- 
longed to the Jesuits), a library of 6,000 volumes, 
with a museum of paintings, by natives of FrnnchB 
Comt6, of which this town was the capital. It was 
given up to France in the time of Louis XIV. Iron 
and coal are found here. Rail to Neuchfttel, <fcc. 
Hotels. — De Genfeve, well situated, comfortable, 
and clean ; Hotel de la Ville de Lyon. 

[From D61e, the stations to Saling are the 
following : — 

Montbarry (8i miles) ; Chateley (8 miles) ; 
Arc-Senans (3J miles); Mouchard (3f 

miles), whence the line goes on to Pontarlier, 
Neuchfttel, Bienne, Bern, and Lausanne, see 
page 131. 
Sallns (4i miles) is a town of 6,068 souls, in a 
bracing spot, in a rocky gorge among the Jura 
mountains, at the head of the Furieuse; and 
has been rebuilt since the great ^re of 1825, 
by a contribution of 2,000,000 francs from all 
parts of France. Here are government salt 
works (salines), an immense pile, above 900 
feet long, where salt is boiled fi-om the brine 
springs in the red gypsum, which corresponds 
to the new red sandstone of Cheshire. 
Mineral Baths at the Etablissement des Bains ; 
the waters are a good tonic, like Kreuznach. 
Hotels. — Grand Hotel des Bains; des Mcssa- 
geries. St. Anatole's church has some carreil 
work; St. Maurice has the Saint's statue on 
horseback; Museum, some Bruges tapestry. 
Pretty Fountains. Tradeiu wine, wax. honey, 



1 



130 



UUADliUAW S ILLUSTRATED 



[Sec. 3. 



And choese. Mont Poupet, near it, to 2,490 feet 
above the sea. Excursion to NailB, where 
they make creamy glazed ware, at the sonrce 
of the Lison; and to ArlM>i8» page 102. See 
Route 22.] 
Beturning to DdlO, on the main line, we pass 

down the Doabs and the Rhone and Rhine Canal, 

to BoOhtfort (H miles). 

OrchampB (H miles). Labarre (if mile), 

where the Loop line turns off, vtdOngney (7 miles), 
Valay (8 miles), &e., to Gray (H miles). See 
Route 62. 

BaneliotCiimiie). 8t.Vit(6miieB). Daxme- 

msrle (Sf miles), in the department of Doubs. 
FranolB (S miles). And 4| miles further is 
BB8ANC0N, 

fi7| miles from Dijon, 254 miles from Paris, 146 
miles from Lyons, vid Bourg and Lons-le-Saunler. 

HoTBLS.— De Paris; du Nord; de TEurope; 
National. Post Oj^c— Grande Rue. 

10" Objects of Notice. — Roman Arch — Cathe- 
dral—the Chamars Walk. 

Chief town of department Doubs, a first-class 
fortress, seat of a military division, of a college, 
archbishopric, academy of sciences, Ac. Popula- 
tion, 56,066. 

This finely placed old town, one of the strongest 
and best built in France, lies in the old province 
of Tranche Gomt^ and is the centre of its watch- 
making trade. It is the Vesontio of Cssar, on the 
DubU, now the Doubs, which still surrounds it 
exactly as in his time, ut circino circumductum^ pene 
totum oppidum cingit (girdling it nearly quite round, 
as if di*awn with a pair of compasses). It stands 
in a fertile valley, bordered by vine-covered hills, 
strengthened by forts commanding the approaches. 
The upper part, or La Ville, is the site of the old 
city, where Vanban's citadel stands on a mass of 
rocks in the peninsula made by the river, over 
which an old Bridge, resting on great piers, made 
by the Romans, crosses to the Basse Ville. The 
streets are broad and well built, and the prome- 
nades ornamented by fountains; one of them is 
a Nymph, with the water flowing from her breasts. 
La Chamars (Campus Martins) on the river, is the 
longest walk, between fine plane trees; aaother 
is the garden of Cardinal Granville's old palace. 
There ate six gates. 



La Porte Noire ^Black Gate), is a Roman tri" 
umphal Atxh^ with two columns, and some statues 
left. Remains of an amphitheatre at Porte Tallin, 
baths, inscriptions, Ac. St, John's Cathedral^ of 
the 11th century, has pictures by Vanloo (the 
Resurrection), Fra Bartolommeo (a St. Sebastian), 
Del Piombo (Death of Sapphira), and others. St. 
Madeleine's church has a fine portal, built 1880. St. 
James* was built 1707. At St. Frauds Xavier's are 
several pictures. 

UoteldeVilleof the 16th century; Pr^ect'sUdtel; 
College founded by the Granvelles, opposite Palais 
Grauveile, now a bank ; the palais de justice, near 
the prefecture, built 1745-49; lai^e caserne, or 
barracks; the salle de spectacle, with a Doric 
portico of six pillars. Public Museum and Library 
of 1 25,000 volumes, and some rare M SS. Musie Paris, 
founded by M. Paris, a native, having many coins, 
antiquities from Alaise (the Roman Alesia), old 
watches (one of Vergniaud, the Girondist); paint- 
ings by A. DUrer, the Moro portraits, Titian's 
Grandvelle, and two by Velasquez. Arsenal ; a 
school of artillery; and St. Jacques' hospital. 

C»sar called it the first town of the Sequani, in 
Belgic Gaul. It was taken by Attila, in the 6th 
century ; afterwards became part of Burgundy, and 
an imperial city, till given up to Spahi, 1648, and to 
France (with Franche Comt^) in 1674. Louis XIV. 
built Porte St. Martin, at Paris, on the occasion. 

Here Ilecker and Struve organised the dis- 
astrous revolution of Baden in 1819. Among the 
natives are Charles Nodier, JoufTroy (statue by 
Pradier), Victor Hugo (born 1802), Foumler, 
Prudhon, Suard, General Moncey, and M. Droz. 

Watches (an increasing trade) are made; with 
clock-work, hats, druggets, carpets, coarse wool- 
lens, thread, yarn, Ac. The canal du Rhone au 
Rhin passes by. 

In the neighbourhood are the Chftteaux de Mont- 
faucon (built by Louis XI.) and Montferrand ; and 
near Boussi^res, down the river, are the large 
caverns, or Grottoes of Osselles 2,620 feet long. 

By rail to VesonI, 60 miles (page 257). 

A line runs to L'Hdpital du GrOB Bois (junc- 
tion for Omans and Lods), Morteau, and Lode. 

[Obnans, in the valley of the beautiful Loue. 
Here is the one-storey cottage of Courbet, the 
painter, who overturned the Vend^me Column, 



Route 22.] 



HAND-BOOK. TO FIIANCE. 



131 



1 



and had to set it up Again. To the north-west, 

on a high point, stands the old Castle of the 

dukes of Burgundy. Population, 8,092. There 

is a waterfall at hand, called Syratu^ nearly 

600 f oet down altogether. In the neighbourhood 

arc the grottoes of La Brbme, Beaumach^, 

Bonneraux, Ac. About 10 miles further is the 

source of the Loue^ issuing out of a cave in a 

precipice, 840 feet high. 

Mortean, on the Doubs, a small town with 

Hdtel-de-Ville of 1590. Thence to Breneta- 

Col-des>Roches (Swiss Doaane) and Le Locle 

for NeufchAtel.] 

The next station to Besan^on, down the Doubs 

and the canal, is 

Boehe (5i miles). LalBSey (6| miles). 

Banme-leS-DameB (7k miles), the ancient 

BcUma, is a pretty sous-prefecture, on the Doubs, 

under fiye peaks of the Jura, on one of which is a 

ruined Castle of the dukes of Burgundy, destroyed 

1476. The Halle au Bid is part of an abbey, 

founded in the 8th century. Gypsum quarried here. 

[At Chaux-Ies-Passavant, a few miles off, is one of 

those remarkable subterranean glaciers which 

are met with in various parts of the Jura range.] 

Coach to Guillon (6 miles), with sulphur springs. 

deryal (4 miles). Population, 1,070. A pretty 
place, with a castle, and furnaces round it. 

L'lsle-Bnr-le-DOXlbS {H miles), on a peninsula 
of the river. Population, 2,568. Pins and wire 
are made here. Voujaucourt (10 miles). Then 

Montb^Uard (2i miles), a thriving place of 
9,661 souls, mostly Protestant, in the fertile valley 
of the Allaine, in Franche Comtd, which is over- 
looked by a feudal tower, now a prison ; and is the 
birthplace of Cucier, to whom there is a bronze 
statue by David d'Angers, with a College Cuvier, 
Theatre; Library and Museum of relics from 
Havdeubb (the ancient Epomanduodurum)^ whe- e 
traces of Roman walls, baths, temples, are seen. 
Clocks, musical boxes, cotton, Ac, are made. 
Hotels. — Du Lion Kougc; de la Balance. 

This is the nearest station for the Glay Institution^ 
the oldest evangelical training College in France. 
Its object is to prepare teachers, missionaries, &c., 
for that country, free of charge; and it has sent 
out nearly 300 to different parts since its establish- 
ment. 



From Montbdliard there is a short line, opened 
1886, to St. Hlppolyte (20 miles), a fine spot, at 
the meeting of three gorges of the Jura Iiills. Hence 
to Morteau (ftee above) and Les Pargots, for the 
FaUs of the Doubs (pajc 132), across a lake, near 

Les Brevents. 

[A short Branch Rail here turns off vid B6ail- 
COUrt (7^ miles), Morylllars (5 miles), &c., 
to Delle (6 miles), on the Swiss fV-ontier; 
thence to Basle by Porrentruy and DeMmont.j 
H6riC01irt (6 miles). In Haute Sadne. Popula- 
tion, 4,720, in the cotton manufactures, and nearly 
all Protestants, as are most of the people of this 
quarter of France (see page 267). Hence it is 6i 
miles to 
Belfort, on the line to Mulhouse, as in Eoute 6S. 



Paris to DlJon, DOle, Pontarller, Neu- 
ch&tel, and Lausanne. 

By rail to MOUCbard, as in Route 21. Thence 
to 

Mesnay-ArbOlS, whence Arbols may be 
reached, where Pichegru was bom. AndelOt 
(16 miles), where a branch turns off for Cham- 
pagnole (8| miles) towards Geneva, page 182. 

From AndelOt, the Pontarlier line passes on to 
La JOUX (4| miles), BoujaiUes (3| miles), 
Frasne (6 miles), and La RlVl^re (3 miles), then 

Pontarlier (7i miles), a border town and aons- 
pr^fecture, of 6,118 population, under the second 
chain of the Jura mountains, at a height of 2,760 
feet above the sea, well built, with a college, bar- 
racks, Hotel de Ville, library, «fcc. ; besides manu- 
factures of iron, paper, tools, leather, and worm- 
wood. Here Bourbaki's army concluded a Conven- 
tion with the Swiss Government in 1871, and were 
allowed to retire to Switzerland. From a hill called 
the Gros Taureau, 4,360 feel, is a fine prospect. 
Curious rocks, called Les Dames d Entreportes. 

Hotels. — Dc Paris; Poste; National. 

Conveyances — By Rail to Lausanne and Neucb&tel 
(In Switzerland). See Bradshaw's Hand-Book to 
Switzerland. Lausanne is reached by the direct 
line rid Vallorbes and Cossonay, 44J miles. Not 
far trom Vallorbes is 

fortdeJoux(2^ milesX near the defile ofLa Clause, 
on a precipice about 640 feet high, where Mirabf»— 
• and the unfortunate Toiusaint VOwmrHtrf 



132 



BBADSUAW S ILL1JS13UTID 



[Sec. S. 



i 



confined. PoDUrliw past Verrftret, ConTet, 
Traveri, Ac., to KbuchIxbe.^ on the Uke of 
Heiieb&tel, it about 41 miles, down the picturesque 
Val de Trarers ; wblcb gires name to one kind of 
atphalic now used for road-making. From Nen- 
chfttel a Blort branch rail turns off to Cliaax de 
Foodr and Lucie, the great seat of the Swiss watch 
trade, in a gorge of the Jara. 

The Doubi rises under Mont Rixon, in the Jura 
range, 8,130 feet above the sea, and about 18| miles 
soutb-sonth-west ot Pontarlier. A 1 1 f i miles north, 
east of this town, near Mvriequ, ip a rocky defile, 
only 33 feet wide, it tumbles orer a flneCsU, called 
the Saut^e-Dou^, about 86 feet down. 

From Andelot, as aboTO-mentioned, on the road 
towards Ckneva, there la a rsA to Cbampagnole (nd 
St. Laurent. 

diampagliold, in a pretty spot on the ascent 
ot the Jura, under Mont Blvel, on the Ain, which 
turns mills for making wire, *c. ffota.—Vumont. 
Fine Tiew from Les Planches. 

St. Laurent (H milea), at the top o/ ^e Jura 
range, has an old castle commanding a wide 
prospect. f[om.—De I'Ecu. 

From Cbampagnole by rail, 28 miles, to LQWh 

le-laimier (page 103). 

From St. Laurent by carriage road down a line, 
pass to 

MoBBZ (7| miles), in a narrowgorge of the Bienne, 
lined with mills and forges. Population, 5,124. 
Clockwork, spectacle glafrses, electro-plate, tourne- 
brocbe» (jacks), pins, nails, and cotton thread are 
made; and there is a good trade in Gruyfere cheese, 
timber, and wine. 

Lis Rousses (2 miles), on a lake near the Swiss 
frontier, and Mont Ddle (6,520 feet), in the highest 
part of the Jura mountains, which may be ascended 
for the prospect. Spectacles and fine watch-work 
are made. The last French custom-house is here ; 
and here al^o the rivers divide, towards the North 
Sea, and towards the Mediterranean. (A road 
turns off, past St. Cergues, to Nyon, on the Lake 
of Geneva.) 

La Yattat (8 miles), or Lavatat, a small collec- 
tion of chftlets, (mm which there is a short cut 
towards Ocx, tbrougn the narrow defile of Mont 
/•aueiUe, which brii^ga you to the south side ot the 
— "-♦n.ln, and all o? a BHd4en revfalg ope of the 



Mat pro^petU in Europe, taking in the Lake of 
Geneva, Mont Blanc, part of Savoy, Ac. The tra- 
veller for Geneva must look out lor this, by all 
means, especially towards suna^t. If he proceeds 
direct to Nyon (as Just mentioned) the prospect is 
equally grand. 

Gbx(9| milesXasmallsoBs-prtffe^iire On depart- 
ment Ain) of 2,659 souia, at the bottom of Moot St. 
Claude, on the Jomans, between the Jura moun- 
tains and Lake of Geneva, of which it commands a 
fine view, as well as of the Alpe and the Jura 
chain. Sottl.—Bu Commerce. Omnibus to and 
from Collonges (page 185) In 4 hours. At 4^ 
miles, Dlvonne-les-Bains, a hydropathic station. 

[About 17| miles to the west-notth-wett is 

St. Claudk, another sous-prtffectnre (!n depart- 
ment Jura), and a seat of a diocese, in a 
picturesque wooded valley in the Jura range, 
where the Bienne and Tacon join. The cathe- 
dral has richly carved stalls and a triptych, by 
Holbein. Many toys in bone, ivory, wood, 
inlaid work, rules, ehaplets, pipes, ite., aa well 
as Jewellery, false diamonds, buttons, musical 
Instruments, nails, and copper goods (quln- 
calllerie), are made. Population, 9,788. Sotel. — 
De r £:cu. Accessible by rail from La Cluse 
(page 188), 37| miles. 

Excursions to tbe falls of Flnmen and Queue>de- 
Cheval (i.e., Horse Tall)— Fonles Cave — the 
intermittent springs of Noire Combe— tbe Pont 
de la Pile on tbe AI|i-~and the Pass leading to 
Tour-dn-Meix. Bept-Honcol Oi miles), noted 
for Its cheese, and manftlacture of stone carving, 
and its gem and diamond polishing works, by 
water power, which abounds everywhere.] 

Fkbket (7| miles), or Fekket-Voltairx, is a 
small village of watchmakers, on a beautiful part 
of the Geneva lake, formerly the residence of 
Voltaire, from 1769 to 1778. They show (all as he 
left It) his sitting-room and chamber, with portraits 
of him, of Frederick the Great, Catherine II. (in 
tnpestry, worked by herself)* Franklin, Ac; also 
a pyramid (which once held his heart), set up by 
the Marquise de Vlllette, his adopted daughter, 
with the words "5o» esprit est partout, mats son 
contr est id" (his spirit Is everywhere, but his heart 
Is here). The theatre Is gone, but the Church he 
built, "Deo erexlt Voltaire," remidns. Mont 
Blanc is in view. At 4 miles further Is 

QOIieTa. to which omnibuses run; an4 thepee 
there Is railway oonminnlcation witb Lausanne, 
Lyons, Chamb^ry, Ae. 



Boiite 23.] 



HAKD-BOOK TO FRAKC8. 



idd 



ROUTE S8. 

(Mont emit Rail.) 

Paris to M&con, fiourg, Clianibery, Moiit 
Cenls, and Turin; trltli brahclies to 
Lyons and Geneva. 

Distance from Mftcon to Geneva, 101 miles ; to 
Chamb^ry and St. Michel, under Mont Cenis, 78 
miles. 

M&con, as in Route 20. Cross the Sa6ue by a 
viaduct on five arches, each 118 feet span, into 
department Ain, a district of >vet marshes and 
lakes, but very fertile, up the Veyle, to 

Pont de Veyle (c miles). Vonnas {H miles). 

M^Z^rlat (2| miles). The Jura mountains in 
view. 

Polllat (3i miles). Population, 1,500. And b\ 
railed from this is 

BOTTRO, or Bourg-tin-BreS&e, 
on the line from Lyons to Besan^n (see page 130), 
47 miles from one, 97 miles from the other, and 
33 miles from Mftcon. Population, 18,968. 

Hotels. — De Frartcc; del'Europe; du Midi. 

The chief town of departtneut Ain (fotinerly La 
Breiie), in a fine spot on the Reyssouze ; founded by 
the Dukes of Savby, aiid glvfeh up to France, 1350. 
One fountain is dedicated to General Joubcrt. 
Bronze statue of Biehat the gnrgedn, by David. 
Ifotre Dame Church contains some noticeable 
carvings. At the Hdtel de Ville id the JIfusiie Lorin, 
bequeathed 1856. Prison oil the site of the ducal 
Cliftteau, and a large hospital. 

Id Faubourg de Bron is the fine Gothic Church of 
Brou, built in 1506-32, by Margaret of Austria 
(Charles V.'s auot), Whose motto, "Fortune, 
iufortune, fort une" (i.e., "Let fortune or mis- 
fortune come, here is one strong soul"), is repeated 
all over It. It is 328 feet long. This rich gem of 
florid gothie is dedicated to her husband, Philibert 
le Beau. It contains many arabesques, stained 
windovs, a rood loft, and three marble tombs, 
supported by sibyls and boys, of Philibert (while 
alive and when dead), his wife, and his mother, 
Margaret of Burgundy. The dial was set up by 
Lalande, the astronomer, who was born at a house 
marked " O6«er0a<otr«, 1793." 

Here the line of the D&mhet Company, 8i) niilefl 
long, from ChAlon and St. Qermain du Plain 

cornea in; 9id CvdMtf, Hantenay, Attignat 



The line, HA La Clufle, to Kantua and Bftlle- 

garde (page l^S), completes the line to the 
Simplon, which runs south of the Lake of Geneva. 
[Nantua, population, 8,400, on a lake between 
the mountains in the Jura chain, having a 
Lombard Church, where Charles the Bold was 
buried. Hotels.— Bu Nord; de I'Ecu. From 
La Cluse there is a short line, 27J miles, to 

St. Claude (see page 182), past Oyonnaz.] 

From Bourg, through the forest of Seillon, to 

La Vavrette (6| miles). Pont d'Aln (o miics), 

on the Ain (a suspension bridge), the gorge of 
which is crossed by the rail. On Mont Olivet 
(about 1,000 feet high) is an old Coitle of the 
Dukes of Savoy. Population, 1,618. 

[Ckrdon (8 miles) is near the fine Fall of Mar- 
cel in, and the great Fall of the River Fogue, 
in a wild spot.] 

Ambronay (3 miles), near a Roman fort, called 
Motte Sarrasin. The Goihic church was part of 
an abbey founded by St. Bernard. 

AmbdrieU Hk mlles), at the junction with the 
direct line from Lyons (see A, below). Population^ 
8,^35. It stands at the foot of the Jura mountains, 
on the Alberine. The source of the Gardori Is at 
hatid, neat Mont Lnisandro, which stands 3,668 feet 
above iea. Across the Rh6ne (to the south) Is the 
large and curious Orotto de Balnte. A rail In this 
direction, 11 miles long, was opened 1875 to St* 

borlln, VUl^bols, And MdntaUen. 

lA. The stations towards Lyons are as follow:— 

Leyment (4i miles), in a gorge. MexUnleux 

(5 voiles), under an old castle. Population, 
2437. Montluel (8 miles), stands below the 
ahcient Mons Lupelli, on the S^raine. Popula- 
tion, 2,686. It was the capital of Valbonnes. 

?eyno8t m miles). Mlrlbel (2| miles), 
opulation, 8,420. Thence to St. Clair, pn the 
Rhdne, and over to Les Brotteaux, in the 
suburbs of Lyons. See Route 20.] 

From Ambdrleu, the rail passes up the valley of 

the Alberine, among wooded heights, to 

St. Rambert-en-Bugey (7 miles), or St. Ram- 

bert-de-Joux, where the river Brevon falls ih, on 
the Alberine, among mountains, with a population 
of 3,765, employed in the manufacture of paper. 

Tenay. The line ascends, and then descends to 
the valley of the RhOne, at 

Bosaillon (8} miles), through ft tunntt et 
1,888 feet, to 



f 184 



BBADSUAW d ILLUSTRATED 



£Sec. 5. 



Vlrlan-to-Qrand (4i miles). Popatatlon. 1J89. 
Branch to BeUey (below) and St. Andr^-le- 
Qai (pa?c 137). 
CBalley (20| miler) a ioas-prtffecturc and 
bishopric, on the Furan, near the suspension 
- bridge on the Rhdne. It \ras rebuilt after a 
fire in 1885 by the Dukes of S.ivoy, and given 
up to France, with Bugey, 1609. 
The Cathtdral\ifiL% two pillars of a Roman temple 
to Cybelc. Hotd».—\Ayo\Bi\ Tissot] 

Artemajre (2 miles). Here Mont Colombttr, and 
the Fallof Cerveyrieu C4 miles) may be visited. The 
mountain (close by) is 6,030 feet above sea. The 
tooth-like peaks of the hills are called molars. 

CulOX, 6 miles (buffel)* on the Rhdne, under the 
south side of Mont Colombicr. Here the branch Nne 
to Geneva parts off, vid Soy^sel, Ac, see page 13A. 
The direct line to Chamb^ry crosses the Rhdne by 
a bridge of 68fi feet, into department Savoie; 
passing under Dent du Chat, along the beautiftil 
lake of Aix, or du Bourget, to 

Cll4tlllon (5 miles). Then, through four tun- 
nels, 10 miles to 

AlX-lea-Bains Cthe x is sounded)^ surrounded 
by hills. Population, 6,296. 

H0TBL8.— Grand Hotel d'Aix ; first-rate estab- 
lishment, near the Casino; highly recommended. 

Grand Hotel du Louvre, near the baths and 
Station, facing the Casino. See Advt. 

Grand Hotel Britannlque and Grand Hotel 
Thermal, both well situated near the baths. Lift. 
See Advt. 

Grand Hotel dc TEurope et du Globe, first-class 
hotel. Splendid Hotel; Grand Hotel du Nord; 
Beau Site; Chateau Durieux. 

Grand Hotel de VUnivers ct des Ambassadeurs. 
Beautiful garden. 

Hotel Damesin et Continental ; comfortable and 
moderate, in a fine situation. 

Hotel Venat and Bristol ; first-c'ass hotel, with 
a large garden. Grand Hotel du Pare. Grand 
Hotel Beau S^jour ; du Louvre. 

English ChureJi Service. 

This is the Roman Aquae Oralianatj near 
Bourget Like, still much frequented for its 
warm sulphur springs— temperature 100* to 117*. 
KewEtablissement Thermal, with baths, and pump 
room. AmongRoman remains area Dorictriumphal 



Arch, pieces of baths, and a Temple of Venus'. 
Omnibus to Marlioz Spa. Excursions to Haute 
Combe Monastery, founded 1225; Bourget Castle ; 
and Bourdeaux, under Dent du Chat (5,210 feet). 
[The line from Aix to Annecy passes throueh the 
fine Gorge de Fier, under the Scmnoz Alp, to 

Albens, Rnmilly, and 

Annecy (25 miles), the old capital of the Duchy 
of Savoy, now chief place of department Haute 
Savoie, which extends to the Lake of Geneva 
and Mont Blanc. The town (population, 11.947) 
stands on a plain among mountains, near 
Annecy Lake^ which is 8 miles by 2, and gives 
outlet to the Fier, a branch of the Rhdne. Tt 
has a museum and library (12,000 vols.) at 
the Hotel de Ville; a Castle of the former 
Counts, now a barrack; bishop's palace, and 
Cathedral; St. Fran9ois church, where St. 
Francis de Sales, one of its bishops, was buried, 
1632. Eugene Sue died at La Tour, 1857. 
Fine views from the Paquier promenade, and 
from La Toumette, over the lake (7,740 feet 
hi^h). Hotels. — De Verdun; de Savoie; 
d'Angleterre; de TAigle. 

Excursions, on the Lake, to CShftteau Duing^, 
and Chftteau de Meuthon, where St. Bernard 
was bom. It is 22 miles to Geneva, and 30 
to 40 round to Chamonix and Martigny, under 
Mont Blanc. (See Bradshavi's Hasul-Book to 
StoitzeHand). 

Rail from Annecy, past La Roche-sur-Foron, to 
Annemasse, the Junction for Geneva. At 
La BochO there is a branch line of 154 miles, 
passing through BomidVille to diues, which 
is to be extended to diamonlZ.] 

From Aix the Mont Cenis line proceeds for 10 

miles to / 

CHAMBEBT. 

POPULATIOK, 20,922. 

Hotels. — Hotel de France; close to the railway 
station; very clean and moderate; Hotel de 
TEurope; well situated. Rue d'ltalie; clean and 
moderate. 

The ancient Camperiacum^ on the Leysse, and 
former capital of Savoy, now the chief place of 
department Savoie. It has a Cathedral ; a Sainte 
Chapello, at the Castle, built 1280, by the Counts of 
Maurienne, its old feudal owners; Palais de Justice, 
Academy, Theatre; with a Poor House and Hos- 
pital, founded by a wealthy native. General de 
Boigne, who was in India, in Scindia's service. 
He spent £150,000 on his Ch&tcan here, and died 



lloiite 24.] 



HANI)-m)<)K TO FHANOK. 



ID'i 



1830. Tile public monument tu him has fuur 
i-Iephants spouting water (Vom their trunks. Statue 
of Pros. Favrd, on Place Grenette. Count Joseph 
lo Maistre, born 1764. Walks in the Botanical 
Gardens, and at the Terrace. To the Grande 
Chartreuse^ on foot, from 

Montm^Uan (9i miles), or Montmeillan, a forti- 
fied post on the Is^re, where the line from Grenoble 
falls in (see Route 25). Branch to St. Pierre 

and Albertvllle, for Brldes-les-Balns, and 

its bath establishment, casino, a church, built by 
Madame Blanc. Follow the river to Chamousset (8 
miles), which may be further ascended by road to 
Moutiers and the little St. Bernard Pass; also 
round to Annecy and Chamounis; but the rail 
ascends the valley of the Arc, to St. Pierre 
d'Albisny (5i miles), with a rained castle, 

Aiffuebelle (7 miles). La Cbambre (i4i miles), 
8t. Jean de Manrienne (6i miles). The line 

between this and St. Michel was for a time blocked 
up, 1872, by a land slip i mile long. 

St. Mlcliel de Maurienne (7i miles), where 
the Pass and Tunnel routes of Mont Cenls part off. 
It is about 50 miles by citherto Susa, on the Italian 
side. The Pats Route, along the diligence road, was 
traversed by Fell's climbing rail in 4 hours. The 
TunnelRoute strikes off near Modane, to the south- 
west, and passes through Col de Fr^jus by a Tunnel 
nearly 8 miles long, to Bardonnechia on the Italian 
side, shortening the distance by two hours. It was 
opened December, 1870, after 12 years' labour. 
(See Special Edition of Bradshatc's Continental 
Guide), Luggage examined at Modane. 

Hotels. — International; Lion d' Or. Buffet. 

From Cuioz, towards Geneva, the rail passes 

Seyssel station (8| miles), opposite the village, 
which lies on the Swiss side of the river, and is 
reached by a suspension bridge. Here Seyssel 
Asphalte is quarried. Over the iron Viaduct of the 
Vixeronce, 121 feet high. The Pyrimout Seyssel 
mines of asphalte are close by. The Rocky banks 
of tlie Rhone in this fine Highland district are 
pierced by a succession of tunnels; the longest being 
Paradis, 1,120 yards, opening out upon the Credo 
mountains (5,360ft. high), and Arlad Castle. 

Bellegarde (lli miles), a bt^fet. From here, a 
branch line runs to St. JuIien-en-Gen^ve, Anne- 
masse, on the Arve, St. Ccrgues, Thonon, Evian, 
and Douveret, in Haute Savoie. From Bouveret 



there is a short line to St. Maurice, whore Ih^ line 
to the Slmplon runs up the Rhone vallej*. 

Evlan-les-Bains, an alkaline mineral spring, 
useful in gout and liver complaints. Hotels, 
Etablisscmcnt des Bain?, and plenty of lodgings. 
Picturesque and cool situation. 

Leaving Belicgarde, we enter the grand Credo 
Tunnel, 4,265 yards long, ventilated by six shafts, 
the deepest being 705 feet down to the line. It 
took 3^ years to make. 

The fort of Ecluse, built by Yauban to guard 
the deep pass, becomes visible. Two short tunnels 
of 279 feet and 606 feet, to 

CoUongeS (7 miles). Population, 1,075. From 
here omnibus to GeX (see page 132), in 4 hours. 

Chancy (if mile). La Plaine kH miles), the 
first place within the Genevese territory. Satlgny 
(Smiles). Population, 1,044. Meyria (2^ miles)! 
Here the line attains its culminathig point, 1,884 
feet above sea level, and a glimpse of Mont Blanc 
may be caught. 

Qeneya, lOO^ miles from Lyons, 114 from 
M&con, 389 from Paris. For this and places in the 
French province of Haute Savoie, see Bradshaw's 
Hand-Book to Switzerland. 



Lyons to St. Etienne, Andr^sleuz, 
Montbrison, Roanne. 

By railway, 84i miles, 4 to 5 hours. Over the 
Saonc, at Mulati^re Bridge, to 

Oullins (3 miles), on the west bank of the 
Rhone, in a pretty spot, having a church in which 
Jacquardis buried; and the Chfiteau du Perron, 
which belongs to the Lyons Hospital. 

Irlgny (3| miles). 

Vernaison (2 miles), opposite Solaise. 

La Tour-de-Millery (U mile). 

Qrigny (li mile), opposite Ternay, is a little 
port, and has remains of a fine chftteau of the 
Moulceau family. 

Givors (2} miles) is placed where the canal and 
the Gier join the Rhone, and has a basin 880 feet 
long. Population, 10,857. Hotel.— De Provence. 
There are important glass-works and f omidries here, 
and a largo new Church, in the Grecian style. A 
junction of 3 kll. places it in communication with 
Cbasse, on the Marseilles line, across the Rh6ne. 

St. Romaln (3 miico. 



i8(; 



URADSHAW*S ILLUSTRATED 



[Sec. 3. 



Tr^veB-Biirel (2i miles). 

COUZOn (3 miles), near a tunnel of 2,950 feet. 

RiV6 de Gler, close to the last station, a manu- 
facturing town of 13,134 souls, on the Gler, where 
the canal to Givors ends in a large basin at the 
middle of the best coal-field in France. They make 
glass, steel, machinery, railway carriages, silk, 
Ac, here. Hotel. — Du Nord. It is in department 
Loire. Some distance to the right, at Champonost, 
are many arches of a Roman Aqueduct. 

Grand Croix (3^ miles), or Les Rouardefi. 

St. Clialnoxid (3 miles), under a cultivated hill, 
where the Janon joins the Gier. Population, 14,968. 
It is well built, and has two churches, a college 
and library, public baths, and a ruined cfaftteau, 
with many foundries, cotton and silk mills. 
Ribbons, laco, nails, and copper goods are made. 

Hotels. — De la Poste ; du Lion. 

Many fossil plants, of the usual tropical charac- 
ter, are found in the coal mines. 

Terrenoire (5 uiiles). Then through a Tunnel 
of 4,280 feet (only a single line), to St. £ticnne 
(If mile). 

ST. £TlENlffi (35| miles hrom Lyons). 

Buffet. 

Hotels.— De I'Europe; de France; du Nord; 
de la Poste. 

Post Office and Telegi'dph, Place Marengo. Popu- 
lation (1891), 133,443. In 1804 it was only 24,000. 

A sous-prefecture in department Loire, on the 
Furens, with little to recommend it beyond its 
manufactures of fire-arms, tools, cutlery, hardware, 
ribbons, and coke, some of the most important 
in France. It stands under Mont Pilat (4,396 feet 
high) on a rich bed of coal and iron ; and the river 
turns above a hundred factories of various sorts. 
Grindstones are quarried in the neighbourhood, of 
the white sandstone of which the houses are built. 

The Hotel de Ville, in the Grand Place, is a large 
pile, including the bourse (exchange), chamber of 
commerce (consell de prud'hommes), prefecture, 
and a Bibliothfeque. The Church of St. Eticnne is 
of the 11th century; Notre Dame is of the 17th 
century. Here are, also, a Palais dos Arts, Museum 
of minerals and practical Arts, Jardin des Plantes, 
a school of mines, school of fine arts, a college, 
government gun factory, and a sallc de spectacle 
(theatre). The ribbons produced here are of great 
♦y, and worth upwards of 75,000,000 francs 



yearly. About 500,000 tons of coal are exported. 
Promenade in Boulevard Yillebceuf . 

Conveyances: Rail to Le Puy (see Route 38), 
Montbrison, <fcc. 
[Across the Mont Pilat ridge, dividing the basins 
of the Loire and Rhone, lies Boubo-Aroental, 
on the line from Firminy to Anuouay in the 
▼alley of the D^6me, under an old Castle^ and 
is noted for its white silk manufacture. 
AxmoiMky (see Route 20) is 9 miles further.] 
From St. Etienne to Andr^zieux (as below) is 
the oldest bit of railway in France, opened 1828. 
Villars (3$ mUes). 

La F0Uill0U86 m miles) and St. Jost (2| 
miles), where the line to Montbrison turns off. 
[It passes Andr^sidllZ, near the Loire, BOUfiOll* 
where the branch to St. Bonnet-le-Cll&teaU 
turns off (see page 137) Siuy-Ie-Coiatal. 
St. Roitiain-le-Ptty, whence it is 4i miles to 

MONTBRISOK. 

Population, 7,088. 

Hotels. — DuNord; de la Poste; duLlond'Or. 

This town, from which there Is a line to 
Clermont (see Route 53), was chosen for the 
capital of department Loire, being near the 
middle of it ; it stands on the Vlzezy, under 
a volcanic rock, which bears some remaiils of a 
castle built by ihe counts of Forez, and gives 
name to the place. 

The old town walls are gone ; it is 111 built ; dnd 
the only edifice worth notice is ITolre Dame 
Cathedral Church, founded 1205, by Guy IV., 
Comte de Forez, whose marble effigy, with a 
lion at the feet, Is inside. It is a plain Gothic 
building, having but one tower completed, and 
it lofty vault. St. Maurice church has a dome. 

The Prefecture belonged to the brethren of the 
Oratory; a library of 15,000 volumes is at the 
College. There are a corn market, Palais de 
Justice, barracks, and a hospice, founded 1220. 
Charles VII. signed a treaty here with the 
Duke of Savoy. It was ravaged by the 
Calvinist leader, the Baron des Adrets, 1562. 
In the neighbourhood are three mineral Springs 
on the river. 

A line is opeh from here to Lyons, via Montrond 
(next page), and Tarare (Roite 20.) A line is 
also open via Thiers toGlcrriioiit (Route 53). 



Route 25.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



About 1 mile south of Montbiison,at Moignt, is a 
round building, about 130 feet diameter, faced 
with pilasters, and commonly called the Palace 
0/ the Saracens. It is supposed to be the site 
of the Roman Mediodunum. Further south (18 
miles from Montbrison) is St. Bonnet-le- 
Ch&teau (page 136), near Agrippa's Roman 
way, on the top of a hill, on which stood the 
camp of Varus, afterwards stvled Chateau- 
Vair.J 

La Renardl^re (3i miles). St. Galmler 

(3 miles) gives name to a gaseous table water. 

Montrond (6i miles), a little place on the Loire, 
91 miles from Montbrison (as above), having the 
ruins of an old CastU, with another, called Belle- 
garde, not far off. Here the line from L'Arbresle, 
via Bessenay ana Meys, comes in. 
The next station on the main line, is 
Feurs (G| miles), on the Loire, the old capital of 
Forez, and the site of the Roman Forum Secgusia- 
norum, of which traces are seen, hi parts of the 
church, and in a mosaic, in a house hard by, besides 
parts of columns, aqueducts, &c. There is a bronze 
statue to Colonel Combes, who fell at Constantme, 
in Algiers. Population, 3,215. Outside is an un- 
finished church, begun by Louis XVIII., as a 
memorial to the victims of the Revolution. Mont 
Lezore, a basalt hill, is near. 
Balblgny (5f miles) ; then comes 
St. Jodard (6f miles), on a double incline. 

Vendrange St. Priest (3 miles), near st. 

Symphorien de Lay, which has remnants of old 
walls and cotton factories. 

St. Cyr (3| miles) and Le CoteaU. 

Roazme (4i miles). Buffet. Hotels.— T>u Nord 
dn Commerce. The Roman Rhodumna, and a sous- 
prdfecture in department Loire, on that river, with 
81,^80 population, and a good carrying trade in 
wines (called Renaison, St. Andrd, Ac), cotton, 
ginghams, grain, iron, charcoal, Ac. It has a 
good bridge over the Loire, a large church, baths, 
a theatre, and a library of 10,000 volumes at the 
college. (See page 81.) 

Hence the rail proceeds to St. Gerisaln des 
^OSS^S, near Vichy and MoUliUS (see Route 45), 
where the junction with the Orleans rail is formed, 
the direct railway distance of Roanhc from Paris 
being 360 mtlei. 



137 

Lyons to Bourgoin, Grande Chartreuse, 
Grenoble, Gap, Dlgne, Dragulgnan, 
Cannes, and Ni(je. 

Lyons Station, in Perrache, as in Route 20. 
VenlSSleux (4i miles), in department Isbre. 
St. Priest (3 miles). 

Cliandiea-Tousiez (31 miles). Correspond- 
ance to 

St. Laiirent-de-Mure (population, i,200),8o 

called from its mulberry trees. 

Heyrleux [n miles). St. Quentin (2i miles). 

La Verpllli^re (2i miles), and its old chateau, 
in a pretty spot. 

Vaulx-Milieu (2i miles). La Grive m miles). 

Bourgoin (2i miles), on the Bourbre, has a 
population of 7,217, and manufactures of cotton, 
linen, paper, and leather. Buffet. Hotel.— Do 
I'Europe. From here the line proceeds towards 
Grenoble as below, 
Cession, on the Bourbre. 
La Tour dU Pin (9i miles), a sous-prefecture, 
with 3,520 souls, on the Bourbre, with a trade in 
wine, grain, leather, <fcc. 

St. Andr^-le-Gaz iH miles), where a line 

runs off north, crossing the Rh6ne, to Belley and 

Virieu le Grand, page 134. From St. Andr^ a lino 

(27 miles) runs to Cliamb^ry by Pressins and 

Pont de Beauvoisin. 

[Pont de Beauvoisin (6 miles), on the Guicrs, 

which is spanned by a single-arched bridge 

of the 16th century. Population, 2,032. La 

Chaille pass leads on by Les Echelles-de-Savoie 

(15 kil.), St. ThihauU-de-Cour (7^ miles), by 

Chamb^ry (7^ miles), whence rail vid Mont 

Cenis Tunnel to Turin, in Italy.] 

Ch&bons (10 miles), and Grand Lemps (2 

miles), followed by Bives (1| mile), where tho 
line to St. Rambert turns off, and 

Voiron (Sf miles), in the richly-cultivated valley 
of Grdsivaudan. Population, 11,604. Rail to St. 
Laurent-du-Pont, for the Chartreuse (page 138), 
continued to St. B€ron on the line bfttween St. 
Andrtf-le-Gaz and Chambdry (above). ' 

Molrans (4^ miles), s miles from Voreppe 
(population, 2,815), from which latter place con- 
veyances may bfe taken for the Grande Chatitett 



T 



188 



BHADSIIAW'S ILLUSTRATED 



[Sec. 3. 



Joining the route from Voiron, which takes about 
6 hours to reach by mnle, 5 f r. there and back. 

There are diligences from Voiron, through St. 
Laurent (10^ miles), to the convent. Passing from 
Voreppe through the valley, covered with fir, Ac., 
on one side you come to La Placette (labour) ; then 
to Si. Laureni-du-Poni (If hour), about half-way 
(10 miles) from Voreppe, on the little mountain 
stream of Ouiers-Mort, up which the road lies. At 
Fourvairie (^ hour), the path suddenly narrow!, at 
a rustic bridge, thrown across the stream. A gate- 
way leads on to the rugged path made by the 
monks through this de/f/e, which Is lined by cliffs, 
several hundred feet high, covered with trees, and 
is so narrow and obscure that the sun can hardly 
be seen; the river all the while foaming at the 
bottom. After Pont St. Bruno bridge (8i hoars) Is 
en ssed there comes a second gateway and a pointed 
rock, called the Oellette^ or Aiffuillette^ from which 
the pass widens up to the spot where the Moneutery 
stands, in a circle of forests and irregular peaks, 
S,2J6 feet above the sea. 

The Grande Cliaitreiise (li mile), the head of 
that monkish order of which Charter House in 
London was a branch, was founded, 1084, by St. 
Bruno. The present pile, an irregular collection 
of high-roofed buildings, is of a much later date. 
A stone gallery, 720 feet long, lends to the Gene- 
ral's apartments, church, kitchen, refectory, &c.; 
another to the cloisters, chapter-house, and the 
cells for about 60 brethren and servitors. In the 
Hall are portraits of the "Generals.'' Higher up 
the stream is a Chapel, which occupies the place of 
St. Bruno's cell. 

Gentlemen can stay at the Monastery, but not 
more than two days without special permission. 
Ladles are not allowe4 in the Monastery, they 
must stop at the Infirmary. The manufacture of 
the liqueur called Cfhartreuse brings in £20,000 
annually. The monks make vegetable Elixir and 
Eau de melisse, distilled from the plants around; 
also tooth-powder, and mineral paste called Bottle 
deader. Ascension of the Grand-Som (6,670 feet) 
with guide. Return by the same road, or round to 
Grenoble, by Sappey, in six hours. 

St. Bsr^ve (7i miles), from which It Is nearly 
four miles to 

GRENOBLE. 

•7} miles firom Lyons by rail, vid St. Rambert; 75 
miles vM Bourgoin, direct. Population, 60,4«9. 



Hotels. — Hotel de TEuropc, first-class hotel: 
Hotel Monnct; Grand Hotel; des Trois Dauphins. 

Post and Telegraph Office^ Place Vaucanson. 

i^" Objects op Notice. — Statue of Bayard — 
Palais de Justice — Museum — Fortifications. 

An ancient fortified town, chief place of depart- 
ment Isdre, head of a diocese, and of a military- 
division, finely seated on the rapid Is^re (which 
cuts it in two), under a hilly ridge 3,510 feet above 
sea, called Mont Rachais. The best view of it is 
from this ridge, which commands a wide prospect 
of 80 leagues, taking In even Mont Blanc. The 
Drac joins the Is^re, near the town. The old 
Province of DaupMni^ of which it was the capital, 
took Its name from the doiphin, or Dauphin, borne, 
at first, in the arms of its old counts and tlieir suc- 
cessors, and then by the eldest son of the reigning' 
sovereigns. 

It wafl called Cularo by the Romans, till the 
Emperor Gratian changed it to Oratianqpolis, 
whence the present name is derived. The oldest 
part is St. Laurent, on the north bank, where the 
old wall stood, below the ridge just mentioned, 
which has the new Citadel on it, enclosing a piece 
of the ancient Bastille. Two bridges (one, a suspen- 
sion bridge) join this, to the Bonne, or largest half, 
on the south side, which contains some good houses 
(on the quays) and streets. It has seven gates, 
with many Fountains ; and a Hdtcl de Ville near 
some Roman remains. 

Among the promenades and objects worth notice, 
are Place Grenette; Place Notre Damo and Its 
Cathedral, a Gothic structure of no mark; Place 
St. Andr€, containing a bronze statue of the famous 
Bayard, " le chevalier sans peur et sans reproche" 
(the knight without fear or stain), who was born 
near Grenoble ; and a Church which held the tombs 
of the Dauphins, whose old Gothic Palace is now 
the Palais de Justice, opposite; the Cours, hand- 
somely laid out; the public Gardens (with a figure 
of Hercules), near the quay and the Prefecture; 
Botanical and Zoological Gardens, Esplanade, and 
Artillery ground, near the Arsenal. 

The crypt of St. Laurent's Church, which dates 
from the eighth century, Is in the quarter of that 
name. At the Hotel des Trois Dauphins is a room 
occupied by Bonaparte on his return from Elba. 



Route 25.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FRANCR. 



189 



HU statue Is lii the Place iVArmes. There is a 
College, or high school. The public Ul)rary of 
170,000 volumes and 600 MSS.nre in the haiid:>ome 
new jyrtM«umf>vliiub, besides pictures, minerals, &c., 
contains busts of Condillac, MaUly, Vaucanson, who 
were all natives, as were Casimir Pdricr, Barnave, 
RolUu (?). The Fortifications, as planned by Vanban 
and General Haxo, render tliis frontier town a 
place of great strength. Good views from Forts 
Babot and de la Bastille. 

Manufactures of good gloves (£1,200,000 an- 
nually), liqueurs, lime, cement, and a trade 
in marbles, fir timber, and walnut tree (for furni- 
ture). Two residents here, in 1853, invented a 
machine which sews glovrs perfectly. 

Conveyance* to Allevard, Aspres-les-Veynes, La- 
regue, Lus-ii-Croix, &c. 

Several Excursions may be taken from this point, 
among which arc that to Sassenage (8| miles west), 
a charming spot among hills, woods, and water- 
falls, with large grottoes; to Grande Chartreuse (as 
above); also the valleys up and down the Isferc, 
Drac, Ac; the mineral springs of Uriaob (6 miles 
near an old chateau) ; and Bayard's Chdteau. At 
five miles from Grenoble, where the Drac joins the 
Islire, is a hill at a fine point of view, marked by a 
chapel called La Tour-Sans-Venin ; one of the so- 
called Seven Wonders of this part, which has given 
origin to a saying that poisonous animals die when 
they come near it. But the name, it seems, is 
merely a corruption of San Verena or St. Vrain,to 
whom the Chapel is dedicated. 

[From Qrenoble to Chamh^ry by rail, opposite the 
old Roman way, up the Is^re, you pass Gl^rOB- 
Ullage (a watering place, with alkaline and 

sulphur springs), BrigxiOTid,and Le Glieylas, 

near Fort Barraux, a frontier post for defendhig 

the pass. Opposite it, on the bank of the river, 

are remains of 

Bayard's Chdteau. standing on a height, and in- 
cluding the court, terraces, stables, «fec., and 
the room where the hero was born, 1476. 
Allevard. not far from this, a bathing place 
and whey cure (Grand Hotel), and a good point 
for excursions, in a fine spur, and noted for its 
sulphur and iodine springs. Then Pont- 

chaxra sur-Br^da, ac, to Mommdiiau and 

Chamb^ry.] 
From Grenoble, the rail to Marseilles via Aix, 
now op«n, is 18 miles shorter than the RhOue line, 



and touches at VIziUe, Vif (from which the road to 
Sisteron Is 65 miles), then Clielles.Veynes (branch 
to Gap, page 140), and Sisteron (Route 27); travers- 
ing a hilly and picturesque country, by means of 
several viaducts, bridges, and tunnels. Crozrt 
viaduct is 981 feet, Brian tunnel is 3,880 feet (under 
the Col de Croix Haute, 6,250 feet). 

The line passes up the Drac to Po&t-de-ClaiX 
(4 miles) and Its single-arched bhdge of 140 feet ; 
then another bridge; next the rock called Saut 
du Maine; and then 

VlzlUe (5 miles), an old military station on the 
Romanche, with a Chdteau built, 1610-20, by the 
Constable Lesdiguibres, nearly burnt, 1825, but 
since restored by the family of Casimir Perier, the 
French statesman, who have established cotton 
spinning and print works here. Here the States of 
Dauphin^ met, 21 st July, 1788, to address Louis 
XYI., previous to the Revolution. Population, 3,905. 
Bridges over the Romance and Drac. Vif (4( 
miles), with part of a Romanesque Priory; H01I68- 
tier de Clermont (13i miles), in the Gresse 
valley, near the Fontaine Ardente (carburetted 
hydrogen gas), one of the Seven Wondws of Dau- 
phiny, and the Orand Veymonty a fine peak, 7,710 feet 
high ; ClelleB (9 miles), under Mottt Aiguille; L1IS- 
la-CroiX Haute (15i miles), near Cul de la 
Croix Haute, 3,840 feet, and Grand Mont Ferrand; 

SI Jnllen-en-Beau-Cbdne (H miles); and 

VeyneS, junction for Oap, see next page. 

The Carriage Road from Vizille to Gap passes 
the following places :~ 

Laffbrt, or Lafbet (4| miles), near the spot 
where the troops sent fh>m Grenoble to capture 
Napoleon I. on his way to Paris, 1815, came over to 
him, upon his crying out, "If any one wants to 
kill his emperor, let him fire;" at the same time 
opening his breast, as represented in the well- 
known picture. There are two pretty lakes. Grand 
Lac and Lac Mort. Les Soucboks (7 miles), in a 
deep valley, near Mont Aiguille, which is 6,920 feet 
above sea. [To the east, in a beautiful mountain 
spot, is La Salette, neted in the present day for a 
supposed appearance of the Virgin Mary, in Sep- 
tember, 1846. She showed herself, they say, to two 
shepherd children of the countr}*, on a rock, now 
marked by the prints of her feet, and by a "mira- 
culous'* spring, the water of which is sold to 



T 



140 



BBADSUAW'S ILLUSTRATED 



pil^ltn^, who flock here, and for whose use a chapel 
has been built.] Cokps (9 miles), in a wild and 
elcTated district. Population, 1 ,S60. Then La Gin- 
ouKTtE-DK-BoTBR (9 mlles.) At 14 miles further Is 

Gap, 74 miles from Grenoble, on the branch 
from Yeynes^ through EmbruiL to Blian^OZL 

Hotels.— Du Nord; dc Provence. Population, 
10,478. The chief town of department Hautes-Alpes^ 
sea of a diocese, <fec.^ in the old province of Dau- 
phin^, It was the Roman Vapincum^ afterwards 
the capital of Oapengoise^ which belonged, first, 
to the Counts of Forcalquicr, then to the bishops. 
It stands on tlie Luye, about 2,400 feet above 
sea, in a fertile hollow, among hills. 

It has a small Gothic Cathedral (rebuilding), 
H6tel de Ville, t}ieatre, library and museum, and the 
marble effigy (by Richier) of Constable Latdtffuih-et 
(born at St. Bonnet, on the Drac), at the Prdfecttire; 
with a statue of Baron Ladoucette. 

Napoleon stopped here on his Way from Elba. 
Fai-el, the reformer, was born at Fareau bt Far©l 
(71 miles) to th« north of this, on the Bnzon, under 
Bayard's Mountain. A few cottons and linens are 
made, and a trade carried on in grain alid cattle. 

By rail to Embrun and Brian^on. 

Chorges was a town of the CattirigeSf and has 
traces of a Roman fort, with other signs of their 
occupation, and a Church on the site of a temple 
of Diana. Fronl^reB (14i miles from Gap). 

[Bascelonnette (diligence from Prnnifer6s) A 
souB-prdfecture in department Basses-Alpes, 
on the Ubaye, and one of the prettiest and 
best built places In this part. It was founded 
1S80, by Raymond, Count of Provence. In the 
Places near the old clock-tower, is a fountain 
in honour of Mannet, with an inscription from 
B^ranger, the poet, signifying that ''arm, 
head, and heart, were all found in him." 
I Population, 2,000. A road leads hence across 

the border, for about 66 leagues, on to Genoa.] 

Embrun (7i miles from Gap), a sous-prdfecture 

and fortified rock, over the Durance, the Roman 

JSbrodunum. The Gothic Cathedral of Notre Dame 

has a good half Romanesque spire. The Palace^ 

I now ft barrack, is close to the old tower called 

' iZurBruni. Population, 4,017. J?ote^— t)elaPo8te. 



[Sec. 8. 

Prom Embrun It is 23j miles to 

Briancon, an important sons-pr€fectui-e in de- 
partment* Hautcs-Alpes, and a strongly fortified 
military frontier town, on the Durance, in the 
Dauphin^ Alps; about 4,340 feet above the sea, 
in an amphitheatre of heights, crowned with nine 
Foi'ts. Its streets arc very steep and irregular; 
a bridge of 130 feet span crosses the dcop bed 
of the Clairde, built 1731. Population, 6,580. It 
was the Roman Brigantium Vians, and is the key 
of France, on this side of the Alps, and a good 
centre for mountain trips and the Vaudois district. 
ffotel — De la Paix. 

La Vachette, at the foot of Mont Genhre (11,615 
feet high). 

From Veynes, the line runs along the Durance, 

past Chabestan, Laragne, &c., to 

SiSteron (31 miles), an ancient place and sous- 
pr6f ecture, at the bottom of a narrow J)ass, com- 
manding the valleys of the Durance and the Buech 
(which join here)* and the old way into Provence. 
It was the Roman Secustero^ and was sacked 1562. 
it is defended by a Citadel (in which Casimir V., 
king of Poland, was confined) on a high rock, 
near the bridge ; on another rock is perched the 
faubourgof La Baume. An old church, a college,aud 
a pretty walk near Porte d'Aix. Population, 3,996. 
Botel. — De la Poste. 

The rail proceeds down the Durance to 8t. 
Aubaxi, whence there is a branch of 13 miles 
through Lea GriUoZlB to Dlgne. 

[For remainder of the line to Marseilles, see 
Route 27, in inverse order.] 

DIGNE. 

Population, 6,770. Hotel.— Boyer. 

The Roman Dina or binia, capital of department 
Basses-Alpes^ in Dauphind, seat of a bishopric, &c., 
on the Bleonne, which runs, swiftly by, to the 
Durance. The town is divided into la Tete, le 
Mitan, and le Pied. The oldest part is on a rock, 
below Boulevard Gassendi (so called after Gassetidi, 
who was born in this neighbourhood, and to 
whom there is a statue, by Ramus), where the best 
houses are placed, with a fountain. Notre Dame 
Cathedral has been restored ; the bishop's palace 
is now a prison. Remains of the old Cathedral, 
with traces of wall paintings, are on the Barce- 
lonnette road. Brignolles prune* are grown. 



Route 25.] 



HAND-BOOK TO F&ANCE. 



141 



In 1891 a line was opened to Hezel (9 miles), 
which is continued southwards to Saint Andr^ 

de-H^oullIeB, through Barr^me. 

[From Pigne,on the carriage road toDrnguignan, 
you pass Baiireme (18 miles). Then 

CASTELLAirE(15J miles), ail oid town nnd sous-pre- 
fecture in department Basses-Alpes, in a defile 
of the mountains, on the Verdon, which is 
crossed by a bold one-arched Bridge. The 
cliffs have a view of the Afediferranean. Parts 
of the ancient wall are left. Cahps (ID miles), 
,and 15^ miles further is Draguignan.} 

From St. Anban, through Voix, Manosque, 

Mlrabeau, and Pertuls (eee page 147, in inverse 

order) to Meyrargues, the junction for 

DRAGUiaNAN, 

PopULATioir, 9,816. 

HoTEU.— De France; Bertin. 

The small capital of department Var, in the old 
province of Dauphin^, fonnded in the 5th century, 
on the Pis, or Nartubie, under Malmont Hill, in a 
fertile plain bordered by an amphitheatre of hills. 
'J'he climate is mild and healthy. 

Before the Revolution it had a palace of the 
bishop of Fr^jns. Notice t^he prefecture, museum 
and library, a square Clock-totoer^ the hospital, the 
palais de justice, and the botanical gardens. 

[Bail from Draguignan to Klce (page 143), 

passing through Fayence, Montauromc, 

Gzasse (page 142), and Colomars* 71 miles.] 

A short line of 8 miles joins Draguignan with 
Les Arcs on the direct rail Marseilles to Nice, 
Route 20. 

lie Hny (S miles) is noted for a Cattle, where 
some Proven^l gentlemen conspired to take Charles 
y. at the head of his army. 

Fr^JUB (8f mUea), a diocese near the mouth of 
the Argius,or ArgsBus, on the Mediteiranean, on 
the site of forum Julii (whence the name comes), a 
naval port on the Via Aurclia, founded by Augustus 
Cnsar, who here stationed the third legion, and 
the fleet taken at Actium. Population, 3,135. 

Hotels.— DuMidU dela Poste. 

9t. Etienne's Romanesque Cathedral^ of the 12th 
century, has some Roman stones in it, and an eight- 
sided Baptistery on granite pillars. The bishop's 
bomte is Gothic. Among Koman remains are— 
partfl of the Walls; an oval Citxusof stone and brick 
(about 050 feet round); aqutfduct, 50 feet high; and 



the Porte Dore'e, or gold gate, which led to the Jiar- 
bour (another was called Cocsar's Gate, and there 
were two besides), where a quay or Mole may be 
traced; and two granite posts and a Phai'os^ or 
lighthouse, are seen. The Roman harbour is now a 
swamp, filled up by the muddy river, with an ^tang, 
or pool, in the midst. Portions of an Aqueduct 
still exist. At Villeneuve farm (1 mile) aro remains 
of a Temple. 

St. Raphael (2^ miles). 

Hotels: Des Bains ct Continental; the most 
central first-class house. Grand Hotel. 

An improving winter resort. English Chutxh 
Service. Here Napoleon I. landed from Egypt, 
October, 1799; and here he embarked for Elba, 
1814. JuliusAgrlcola (the father-iu-lawof Tacitus) 
and Abbe Sibyes were born here. 

L'EsTEREL (8| miles), is near the sea, under the 
range of broken porphyry hills called the Esterels, 
or les Maures (afier the Saracens or Moors), which 
Hbelter this part. They are 1,800 to 2,400 feet high, 
covered with cork, arbutus, and otiier trees, and 
were first explored by I)e Saussure, 1789. The 
line runs by tunnels and cuttings along the base 
of the Esterels to 

A|»ay (^ miles), followed by 

GANNP (15 miles). 

POFULATION. 19,083. 

Grand Hotel de Cannes. — Well situated on the 
principal promenade. Garden. 

HoiBLS.— Hotel Beau Sdjour, beautifully situ- 
ated. 

Hotel Westminster. 

Hotel Metropole. 

Hotel Beau Siic. — Charming situation on the west 
side of Cannes. Recommended tn every respect. 

Prince of Wales Hotel.— -A new first-class hotel, 
well sheltered, and beautifully situated, near St. 
Paul's Church. 

Hotel des Anglais. 

Hotel Mont Fleury, 130 rooms, moderate. 

Hotel Richemont. 

Hotel Continental. 

Hotel de Belle Vue. — Well situated and ffscpm- 
mendcd. Splendid Hotel on the puDlic garden, in 
the best part of the town. 

Pavilion Hotel. — Well-situated hotel, com- 
fortable and good. 

Hotel Gray et d'Alblon. — First-class establish- 
ment, situated in the finest quarter of the tow^; 
large garden. Recommended. 

Hotel Grande Bretagno* 

Savoy Hotel. 

Central Bristol Hotel. 

Hotel de la Terrasse, well situated, opposite 
Cbii&t Church. 

Hotel dc Provence. 



142 



BKADSHAW'S ILLUSTRATED 



[Sec. 3. 



Hotel Central.— First -class, with a large garden. 

Hotel St. Charles. 

Windsor Hotel. 

Hotel Splendid. 

Hotel Califomle. 

Pare Hotel. 

Hotel dc rE8tere],8itaated in the west-end of 
Cannes. 

Hotel d«8 Princes. 

Hotel des Anges. 

Hotel Bean Lieu. 

Hotel du Louvre ; Orand Hotel de Cannes. 

Hotel Royal; Hotel Gonnet. 

Hotel Bean Rivage. 

Hotel de Russie. 

Grand Hotel Alsace Lorraine.— Family hotel, on 
the Boulevard dn Cannet 

Hotel Pension and Villa de la Tour.— Family 
House, well situated at the West end of Cannes. 

Hotel de Hollande. 

Hotel des Pins, well situated, first-class hotel, 
newly opened. 

Hotel du Paradls, Boulevard du Cannet, close 
to St. Paul's Church. 

Hotel de France, situated full south, on the 
Boulevard du Cannet. 

An English Vice- Consul and several Physieians 
arc resident. Four English Churches^ Scotch Free 
Churchy &c. See Bradshaw's Continental Guide. 

EiroLisH House, Estatb, and General 
AoBNCT, Messrs. John Taylor and Riddett, wine 
merchants. Rue de Frejiis. Mons. Ronz is a House 
and General Agent (French), and publisher of a 
Visitors^ List, maps, Ac. 

Post and Telegraph OJlee, Rue Bossu. 

Boats in the port, 12 to 15 fr. a day, with two 
men. Steamers to the Islands, Ac. 

Carriages : 1 horse, 2 persons, 1 f r. the course, 
2 f r. an hour. Omnibus to La Bocca, Le Cannet, 
VallaixrlB (manufacture of artistic pottery), and 
Antibes. 

Cannes, formerly a small fishing village, now 
grown into a flourishing town, Is beautifully 
situated under the hills, on La Napoule Bay, in the 
Mediterranean. It stands on the site of Oanbia^ 
which the Saracens destroyed. It owes its pros- 
perity to its mild, dry, winter climate, sunshiny 
and free from fog; and has been much resorted to 
by consumptive and delicate persons since Lord 
Brougham made it his residence in 18«^4. There is 
a memorial of him in the Cemetery,* besides a 

>atue dedicated at the centenary of his birth, 1879. 



The old town lies under Mont Chevalier, at the 
top of which arc the old Church, and a square 
tower of an old Chftteau. Pdrallel with It is the 
Boulevard de la Plage, at the west end of which 
is the Cours, with promenades and fountains. 
Bathing is excellent, the sandy beach being one of 
the best on the coast. Church of St. George, with 
the Albany Memorial Chapel, erected 1887, in 
memory of the duke, close to the Villa Nevada, 
where he died, 28th March, 1884. Janiin d' Accli- 
matisation and SkatingRink, in the English quarter, 
on the west side, near Villa Brougham; Chftt«au 
des Tours, and other seats. Many garden villas 
have sprung up here and towards Le Cannet, 
Vallauris, Napoule, Ac. New streets and drainage 
improvements have been made ; water is suj^lied 
by an aqueduct trom the Siagne. Plantations of 
wholesome pine and eucalyptus. Good mutton, 
game, fish, and poultry are plentiful. At the Hotel 
de Ville collections of natural history, geology, 
and antiquities, the latter worth seeing. New 
Casino. New Post Office and College Communal, 
with other new public buildings. 

Theenvirons aredelightful. Wildflowersaboand; 
and gardens of heliotrope, hyacinth, and other sweet 
flowers are grown for perfumery. Excursions to Lta 
Croisettc, pai^t Villa Scott, California Tower, St. 
Anthony's Church, 656 feet high ; Grand Pin and Le 
P€zon, 875 feet ; Clausonnc and the Roman aqueduct. 

In front of the bay are the well-wooded lies des 
Lerins (rabbit shooting). On He St. Marguerite is 
a tower, in which Richelieu confined the Man with 
the Iron Mask (a twin brother of Louis XIV.; his 
mask was really velvet). It was also the prison of 
ex-Marshal Bazalne till his escape. 

[At 12 miles north by rail isOXUBSe, an ancient 
town and sous-prefecture in department Alpes 
Maritimes, among gardens of oranges, lemons, 
roses, and scented flowers, for distilling 
essences. Population, 14,015. The principal 
hotel, the Grand, was occupied by Queen 
Victoria in 1892. Cathedral; traces of a 
palace, built by Jeanne, Countess of Provence, 
arc seen; besides a Roman tower near the 
Hotel de Ville, and St. Hilaire's old linspital 
chapel (three pictures by Rubens). M, Malvilan 
has paintings by Fragonard, temp, Louis XV.] 



Uoute to-^ 



HAND-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



143 



Qolfe-Jouan-VaUaurls (4 miles). At Vai- 

lanris art pottery is made. 

AnUbes (3 miles;, a port In a fine spot under 
the Maritime Alps, with a Jetty made by Vaaban. 
Population, 7,401. 

It was founded as AniipoHs by the Greek colonists 
of Marseilles; and has a church, on the site of 
Diana^s temple, two Roman Towers, traces of a 
Roman Theatre, and a pillar to Louis XVIII. The 
bridge over the Brague was carried away by the 
floods of January, 1872; the train went over, and 
drowned thirty passengers. Flowers of all kinds 
are grown for essences and perfumery. 

Vence-CagneB (5 miles), with an old castle, and 

Var (4 miles), or 3t, Laurent-du-Var, at the 
bridge (262 feet long) over the Yar, in department 
Alpes Maritimes. Four miles further is 

NICE, 

A famous winter residence, called Nizza by the 
Italians. Population, 88,273. 

Hotels.— Grand Hotel, Quai St. Jean Baptiste. 

Westminster Hotel, first-class famUy hotel. 

Hotel de France, first-class hotel, situated in the 
best part of the town. Deservedly recommended. 

Hotel des Anglais; first-class, facing the sea. 

Hotel de la Mediterran^e. 

Kraft's Hotel de Nice, kept by Mr. C. Kraft 
(Bemerhof, Berne); very good situation; excellent. 

Grand Hotel Paradls. 

Hotel de Rome. 

Hotel de la Grande Bretagne; Hotel Cosmo- 
politan; and Hotel de TEIys^e, now belong to the 
Society Anonyme de la Grande Bretagne. 

Hotel d*Angleterre, first-class hotel, beautifully 
situated on the " Jardhi Public." 

Splendid Hotel, Boulevard de la Buffa. 

Hotel du Louvre, well situated, full south. 

Grand Hotel des Isles Britanniques, comer of 
Boulevard Longchamps. 

Hotel Jullien, comer of Boulevard Dubouchage 
et Avenue Beaulieu (Carabacel). 

Hotel du Luxembourg. 

Hotel de la Paix. 

Grand Hotel Terminus, opposite Railway Station. 

Hotel des Princes. 

Grand Hotel Mllllet; Hotel St. Peters bourg; 
H tel et Pension Suisse; Grand Hotel des Pal- 
mier! ; Hotel Raissan. 



Hotel et Pension du Midi, opposite' the railway 
station. 

Hotel d* Albion, Boulevard Dubouchaje (Cara* 
baccl); full south. 

Pension Anglaise, Marine Villa, on the Prome- 
nade des Anglais. 

JffotaeAgents.—Anglo-AmcrlcAn Express, Jardin 
Public. C. Jougla, depdt for Bradshato's Guides. 

Resident English and Atnerican Consuls. 

Resident English Physicians. 

English Churches.—Trinity, in Rue de France; 
St. MichaeUs, in Rue Berg^rc; Christ Church, 
Carabacel. Scotch Church, — Boulevard Long- 
champ. American Episcopal Church. — Rue Cara- 
bacel. 

Electric tramway to Cimiez. 

Nice, perhaps the most widely known of all 
European winter resorts, is situated in the depart- 
ment Alpes Maritimes, and built chicfiy on alluvial 
soil, not more than 23 feet above the sea level, 
formed by the Yar and the Paiilon, at the foot of 
the low hill known as the Yicux Chftteau, shel- 
tered on the north by Monte Calvo (2,700 feet) and 
Monte Boron, and on the east by Monte Albano. 

The air is pure and absolutely free from fog. 
Average temperature of the winter months(Decem- 
ber, January, and February), 48*Fahr. In sum- 
mer the heat rarely exceeds 85^ Rain falls 
abundantly during three or four weeks in Septem- 
ber and October, and again, not quite so copiously, 
in May. The number of rainy days in the year 
averages about 36, against 250 in northern Europe. 
TheJ^climate is specially. adapted for winter resi- 
dence in all cases of debility, in chronic bronchitis 
(unaccompanied by inflammation), liver complaints, 
disturbance of the urinary secretions and similar 
exhaustive diseases, adistinct advantage beingthat 
invalids can enjoy the open air every day in 
thoroughly sheltered walks, snow and frost being 
almost unknown. The Paiilon has been covered 
over, and dU the town sewerage is carried in pipes 
out to sea, quite apart from the river. 

Nice is divided into the old and new towns, the 
latter having the suburbs of Carabacel and Cimiez, 
which are preferred for tlieir higher situation and 
distance from the sea. The old town lies low, and 
some of its streets being below the level o' "-^ ' 
torrent, or river Paiilon, should be vlsit*^ 



U4 



BRADSHAW'S ILLUSTRATED 



[Sec. 3. 



precaatioQ by delicate invalids. The new town is 
well built, with boulevards. The beautiful Pro- 
menade des Anglais runs for a mile or more along 
the -shore, from which it is separated by a shady 
walk, well planted with southern trees. Bathing 
establishments on the shore in front. The tide 
only-rises about six inches. 

Nice is a bishop's see. The Cathedral of Sta. 
Reparata dates from 1650; the interior is richly 
ornamented. The Church of La Misdricorde has 
a diptych of the 14th century. There are a 
French Protestant Temple, and Italian and French 
Theatres, the latter rebuilt since the disastrous 
fire of 1881, when 70 persons were burnt. Several 
clubs, the largest being the Cercle de la Mdditer- 
rande. Promenade des Anglais. Hotel deVille; 
Prefecture; Museum of Natural History and 
Public Library of 60,000 vols., open daily. Jardin 
Public, opposite to the new Pier, where a band 
plays nearly every day. Statue of Massena (In 
Place Massena) and of King Carlo Felice. A 
marble cross commemorates the meeting of 
Charles V. and Francis I. in 1538. The Castle 
Hill is laid out in shady walks, gradually rising 
to an elevation of 320 feet; ruins of the Old 
C.istlc, destroyed in 1706 by the Duke of Berwick. 
Garibaldi was born here. Lytc, the author of 
"Abide with Me," lies in the cemetery of the 
English church (Rue de France), and Gambetta in 
the Town Cemetery. 

Fruit and fish are abundant. The olive, fig, 
mulberry, carob, citron, orange, and lemon flourish 
luxuriantly. The eucalyptus, palmetto, and date 
palm grow freely, but the latter produces no fruit. 
At Cimiez are rains of a Roman amphitheatre; 
and tjie Convent of the Recollet Frbres, with fres- 
coes in the church, worth visiting. 

Excursions to the Vallon Obscur, not far from 
the Convent of St. Bartheldmi; to the Abbey of 
St. Pons; to St. Martin Lantosque, &c. 

Rail 37 miles through Colomars to Puget- 
Thenlers, whence omnibus to St. Andr^ (page 
141) on the rail to Digne. 

The beautiful Comiche Road runs to Genoa, 
along the Riviera di Poncnte (Western Strand), 
generally near the rail, but undulating continually, 

Viilefrandie (2^ miles), on a fine sandy bay. 

KeauUeu (U mile), among olive and fruit trees, 



is a rising place, on a beautiful bay. New hotel, 
and English church service. 

Eza (2 miles), where was a Temple of I sis. 

Monaco (4 miles). Hotels. — Hotel de Londres, 
in the Gardens, facing the Casino; Hotel des 
Anglais, first class, at the Public Gardens ; Grand 
Hotel, fine situation; Grand Hotel Victoria, first- 
class; Hotel de la Terrasse Boulevard des Moulins 
(private hotel) ; Hotel Beau Rivage, first-class ; 
Grand Hotel de Paris. 

An independent principality, 6 mijes square, 
belonging to the Goyon-Matignon family, contain- 
ing the old town of Monaco, with a semi-Moorish 
fortified Palace (open on Tuesdays and Saturdays), 
situated on a promontory; the Condamine, the 
new town, in front of the small port (here are the 
bathing establishments), Monte Carlo with its 
Casino and gaming tables, and the little town of 
Moulins. 

Resident English Physicians. 

English Church Service at St. Cyprian's Church. 

See "Monaco, the Beauty Spot of the Riviera," 
by Dr. Pickering. The climate is something like 
that of Nice, but Monaco itself is too exposed, 
though the old town is perfectly healthy, well 
paved, and sewered, and much cleaner than the 
corresponding parts of Hyfercs, Nice, or Mentone. 
Condamine, well'sheltcrcd, contains many English 
residents. Fine Art Gallery. There are daily 
concerts, reading-rooms with English newspapers, 
many amusements, and interesting walks. Access 
to the gaming tables is by ticket, and only allowed 
to those over 21. 

Excursions to Eza, T6te de Chien, Mont Agcl, 
and La Turbie. The station for Monle Carlo is 1^ 
mile beyond that of Monaco. A mountain rail has 
been laid from Monte Carlo to La Turbie, on the 
Cornichc Road, a favourite centre for excursions. 

At Gabb^-Roqnebnine (2 miles) is a mined 
Castle, on the rugged cliflFs. 

MENTON, or Mentone (2J mfles). 

Population, 9,050, 

Hotels. — Hotel des Anglais, beautifully 
situated. 

Grand Hotel, large and beautiful hotel, situated 
full south. 

Hotel des lies Britanniques; fine and healthy 
situation. 



iiouttti 26 And 27.] 



lUNIi-BOOK To iftAVcfc. 



(.1 rand Hotel Cosmopolltaiii. Close to the station. 
Fine nnd convenient situation. 

Hotel de Nice. 

Hotel de BcUc Vue, beautifully situated. 

Hotel Beau Rivage, well situated, near the 
Garavan Station. Full South. See Advt. 

Grand Hotel de Mentone. 

Hotel Splendide. 

Hotel dc la Pnix. 

Hotel Grande Breta^ne. 

Hotel d'ltalle (English house); old established 
hotel, with a large garden. 

Hotel du Louvre. 

Grand Hotel Victoria. 

Hotel National; Hotel Alexandra; Grand Hotel de 
Paris; Grand Hotel deVenise; Hotel Mdditerran^o. 

Hotel du Pavilion Prince of Wales, in the West 
Bay. 

Hotel Westminster, first-class hotel, newly built. 

Hotel et Pension du Midi, Promenade duMidi. 

Hotel and Pension de Londres. 

Grand Hotel ct Pension du Pare, Avenue de la 
Gare. 

Hotel dcs Princes. 

Hotel et Pension d'Angleterre. 

Hotel et Restaurant dc la Gare. 

Englith Church Service; Scotch and Frenelt Protes- 
tant Services. 

A winter and summer residence, in a beautiful I 
spot, with a mild equable climate, between two 
beys, under mountains 4,000 to 5,000 feet high. 
It contains some steep streets of tall houses; 
St. Midlers Church (1311); a Club; and Museum of 
bone remains from the caves. The Queen, at her 
visit in March, 1882, stayed at Mr. Henfrey's 
Chftlet des Rosiers in East Bay. The river Coreille 
leads up among the hills to Castiglione behind. 
Lemon gardens. Mr. Hanbury's beautiful gardens 
at La Mortola. Fine views from St. Agnbs (2,400 
feet), and Mont Baudon (4,160 feet). 

The climate of Mentone is unquestionably 
slightly warmer, more equable, and less exciting 
than that of Nice or Hyferes, and the quietness of 
the place also fits it for delicate invalids. Average 
winter temperature about 49* Fahr. The best 
proof of the mildness of its winters Is afforded by 
the luxuriant lemon groves which bear, more or 
less, all the year round, and the fine old olives, 
some of which date even from Roman times, and 
have never been destroyed by frosts, as has some- 
times been the case in other parts of the Riviera. 

The rail passes over the Italian frontier (7 miles 

from Mentone) to 

Ventimlglla. See flradhawA Haml-Hook to , 
/taljf. 

K 



Grenoble to Brianpon, Embrun.and Turin. 

To Brian9on, about 42 mlleR, by a fine road. 

OrenOble, as in Route 25. From this bj* rail 
to Vizille station (9 miles), then byroad to Livet. 

BouEQ D'OisANS (8 miles), on the Romanche 
(2,543 population), near Mont dc Lens. The valley 
of Ycn^on leads to Mont Ailc-Froide, or Mont 
Pelcoux, the highest peakin France, 1 2,973 feet above 
the sea, and covered with glaciers. Through the 
wild Alpine passes of L'Infernet and Malaval to 
Gbave (16 miles), near several falls. Villabo 
d'Arkne, at the bottom of the Col du Lautabbt 
(2^ leagues), a pass 6,860 feet above the sea. 
MoNBTiBR (2 leagues), in thevalley of the Guisanne, 
has some warm Sulphur Springs, which are used in 
the season. Population, 2,068. 

Brian^k, see page 140. 

BouBo MoNT-GENfcvBB (2 leagues), where the 
douane or ft-ontier custom.honse is placed. 

The first place on the Italian side is Cesanne ; 
thence to Siua, and from Susa, by fail, to Turin. 

The carriage road from Briaufon to Embrun 
passes 

La Bessbb (10^ miles), near the Val Louise (which 
leads up the Mont Pelvoux), and near to a cave 
called Aiumedex FaudoM, where 3,000 of them were 
smothered, or slain, by Cliarles VIII., in 1488. 

Laboche (4| miles), leads into Val Fressini^ro, 
where Fdix Neffit buried. He lived chiefly at La 
Chalp, in Val d'Arvieux. 

Plan de Phazv (6 miles\ on the Durance, near 
Mont Dauphin Fort. Up the G ull, through the valley 
of Queyras, to OuUlestra. Then to Veyer and the 
deep gorge of Chapclue, and to Ville-Vieille, opposite 
Fort de Queyras, in the midst of snowy heights. 

Val d'Arvieux, Val Veran, Ac, which stretch 
arcund this, are consecrated by the labours of Feltx 
Neff&mong the Protestant Vaudoia who made this 
desolate region their asylum. Dormeillcuse Peak, 
over NefTs house, is 10,570 feet high. At the head 
of theGuil is Monte Fuoand its glaciers, 12,643 fret 
high, on the Italian border. 

Embrun, see page 140. 

Il,OXJTE ST. 
Marseilles to Alx, Dlgne, and Dragulgnan. 

By rail, vi<i (Jardanne (branch to Trets and 
CarnoulcR). AiX, MejrrargTUes (branch to Avi<r. 




fy 



146 BRADSHAW*S 

non and to Draguignan, Maiiosque. St. Auban 
(gee page 147) branch to DIgiie. 

From Gardanne to Luynes, 3 miles. Theuce 
6 miles, across the Arc, to 

AIX. 

Population, 28,367. 

HoTBLS.—De la Mule Noire; des Princes; da 
LonvTe; Nbgrecoste. 

A sons-prefecture of department Boucbes-dn- 
Rh6ne, seat of an archbishopric, academy, Ac, 
And a watering-place; first founded as the Boman 
Aqnst Sexiise, by G. Sextlns Calvinus, about 124 
B.C., and became the capital of Provence, under the 
Troubadours. 

It stands near the Arc, in a fertile, sheltered 
valley, separated by hills, to the north and south, 
f^om the Durance and the coast; Mont Victoire 
lying to the east. The old square-shaped town, 
with its dirty streets, half-ruined walls, and six 
gates, lies on one side of the Cours or High 
Street, which has David of Angers' Statue of 
King Reni^ three fountains (one of warm water), 
and statues of Portalis aiid Simeon, placed there 
1347. Outside the town are the mineral springs, 
for visitors, called the Fontaine de Sextius, with a 
bathing-house, offering but middling accommo- 
dation. The season for using them is May to 
October. They are beneficial in cases of rheumat- 
ism, paralysis, and skin diseases. 

, The Cathedral, dedicated to St. Sauveur, is com- 
posed ot a Romanesque aisle of the llth century, a 
gothic nave of the 14th century, with a front and 
tower of the same date (the carved cedar doors are 
later), another aisle of 17th century, a large and 
well-shaped choir, built 1285, and the ancient clois- 
ters of 1 Ith century. The old Baptistery annexed, 
with its eight large granite pillars, was, they say, 
part of a Temple to Apollo. Notice, also, a sar- 
cophagus (in St. Mitre's chapel), with bas-reliefs of 
Christ preaching, a painting of the Virgin and 
Child, with portraits of King Ren6 in It, a triptych 
of Moses and the Burning Bush, of Rent's time, 
sculptures by Gleastel, and two lions from Rent's 
throne — also the monuments of Archbishop Panard 
and Fabri di Pelresc, an equestrian figure of St. 
Martin, and an old niched image of the Virgin, 
^-^■**rt great veneration by her worshippers. 



ILLUSTRATED [ScC. 1 

At St. Jinn's Gothic Church, which belonged to a 
priory of Malta, and was built, 1231, by Raymond 
Berenger IV., ai-e the tombs of the Counts of Pro- 
vence (restored 1828), some paintings, and a good 
Clock-tower, 213 feet high. St.Madeieine is 200 feet 
long, and adorned with various ^am^tn^x, one being 
by Albert Durer. 

There are five or six other Churches and chapels. 
At the Hdtel de Ville, built 1668, are Constou's 
statue of Marshal Villars, and a large and valuable 
Library of 120,000 volumes, chiefly the gift of the 
Marquis de M^jeanes, and 1,100 MSS., with urns and 
busts; that of Vauvenargues is by Ramus, a native 
artist. Near it is a Clock-tower, built 1512, with a 
clock and figures moved by machinery. The old 
priory contains a Musetim of Roinan and Greek 
antiquities; besides a gallery of pictures, among 
which are Gros's Night of the 20th of March at the 
Tuileries, and Forbin's Siege of Granada. Opposite 
the fountain of St. Louis is the BcoJe des Arts et 
Metiers. The new Palais de Justice is a large 
bulldhig, worthy of notice. 

Among the eminent men it has produced are 
Adanson and Toumefort, the naturalists; Entre- 
casteaux, the navigator; and (General Miollis. 
Pdpe Alexander V. founded the university here, 
1409. The Procession of the Fite JHeu, first 
instituted by le bon JRoi Rend, was revived with 
great splendonr in 1851. 

Rail to t)raguignan (Route 20) ; to Rognac (on 
the line to Avignon) via Lea Miiles, Roqu^avour 
(giving name to the Marseilles aqueduct), and 
Velaux. 

At about li hours' distance up the Arc, is the 
Aqueduct of Roquef avow, above mentioned, 260 feet 
high, for carrying the water supply for Marseillea 
over the river. 

Excursion, 9^ miles, to the old fortified castle of 
Vauvenargues, 14th century, close to the cascades 
of the Val de Tlnfemet, thence to 

[Mont Victoire, so called from the famous victory 
of Marius over the Teutons, 125 B.C. It has a 
castle of the 14th century, with a Hermitage at 
the top of the mountain, 8,180 feet high -where 
a fgte is held, 24th April.] 

The stations after Aix are Puy-Blcard, A;c., to 



Hottte-28.] 



HAK1>-&00K to fBAKC£. 



U7 



MeyrargueB (16 miles), on the Durance, which 

the rail follows to Fertois, Mirabj^au, Han- 
osque^ La Brlllaime, pt. Anban, Felpla» <fec., 

to Slsteron and Oap (Route 26). 

Peltnlfl, a town of 4,927 Inhabitants. Towers 
of the 13th century. 

HtlrabeaU h{ls Ml rabeau's family chdieaH^ where 
he lived when a boy. 

AtanosqUd (tS^ miles), on the Dnranc^, a town 
of 5,572 souls, with a trade in olives, truffles, &c. 

Volx (4i miles). Rail to Pbrcalquler, with a 

church of the 12th century. It was formerly the 
capital of the Memini. Rail also to Apt 
(page 114). 

At St. Auban, a short line of 14 miles runs off 
to Bigne, see page 140. 

A line was opened in 1890-1891 in successive 
sections from Meyrargues to Draguignan(6i miles), 
and from Draguignan to Grasse and Nice, opening 
up a through connection between Marseilles and 
those delightful health resorts. The most note- 
worthy stations up to Draguig^ian, commencing 
with Meyrargues, are 

PeyroUes, above which rises the Grand Sambuc 
(2,410 feet) ; JouqueS, with rums of the chfiteau of 

If; Rians; VarageSi ^ a pretty valley; Baijols, 

at the confluence of the Fonvery and the Ecrevisscs; 
SiUans, where is a fall of the Eresque, 155 feet 
high ; Balemes. with an ancient Moorish castle ; 
Lorgues, a small manufacturmg town ; Draguig- 
nan (see page 141), 



Lyons to St. Btienne, Le Puy, ttende. 
and Albi. 

This route rans through Auter^gne, atad the ro- 
mantid country at the head of the Loli-e, Lot, Ac. 

lyons to St fitlenne, as in ftonte 24. 

Then to Bellevue (3} miles), tunnel, 2,280 
yards, and Firmlny (page 106), in a hilly country. 

AureC (6 miles), BaS-MoniBtrol (6( miles), 
and Pont de LlgnonlSmiles). Here the line 
crosses the windings of the Loire, by several 
viaducts, with many tuoDeU. 

[MoHisTKOL (2 milea from Bas-Monistrol) has 
remaioa of an Urrallne convent, tad the 



country-seat of the bishop of Puj', now % 
ribbon factory. Population, 4,719.] 
KetOUrnac (7| mlles), followed by 

La Voftte-Bur-Lolre (13 miits). Rail to 
YssiNGEAUX (144 miles), a sousprdfccture in 
depai-tment Haute-Lolre. Population, 7,869. 
Ribbons and laces are made. Hotel — De TEurope. 
Then comes 

LE PUT (7| miles), or Puy-eh-Velay. 
In the volcanic country of Auvergne, 58^ miles 
from St. Etienne. 
POPDLATION, 20,808. 

Hotels.— Hotel des Ambassadenrk, good*, d« 
rtutope. 

Capital of departtnent Haute-Lolrfe (PorttieHy of 
Veftfjr, in Auvergne), seat of a diocese, <ftb.; lifearthe 
Roman Reustio. It was at one time cHlled VHle 
d'Anls, and then Puy, or Pveeh, i.e., a peak, from 
the volcanic mountain on whose north and West 
sides it lies, sloping In a remarkably pifctiitesque 
way towirJs the valley of the Borne, wHlbh joins 
those of the Doldsou and Loire close by. 

This cohlcal peak, in the midst of a tlrd'e of 
other nigged volcanic hills covfered with vineyards, 
&c.; is 2,050 feet above the sea, or 4B0 fefet ftbovfe 
ItsbwiiSpreadltig base; fhbm which thfe lavji-buflt 
houses, with their tiled roofs, rise ih tleM, past the 
Cftthedral, and the gardens of the seminiry, to the 
top, called the Rochei' Corheilte, and crownfed by 
a statue of the Virgin, 52 feet highi msa* fbto 
the cannon Uken at Sebastopol. Viewed from the 
Pont St. Jean, this top offers a rough likeness to 
Henry IV., with his aquiline nose, moustache, and 
beard. 

On the east of Mont Anis is a sharp peak of 
volcanic breccia; henrly 800 feet high, called 
Rocher d'Aiguilhe (the needle rock), on Which is 
the little spire Chapel of St Michel, seemingly In- 
accessible, but reached by a spiral of 249 steps. It 
Is in the Romanesque style of the 10th century. 
Below, between the peaks, is the "temple of 
Diana," a little eight-sided Romanesque Chapel of 
8t. Glair, dating from the l2th century. From 
the very sloping position of the town, the streets 
are too irregular and steep for carriages: they are 
paved with liva ; but the ne# town haA a broad 
boulevard and public gardens. A new Hdtel de 
YiUe Is in Place dii Brenil, Where U k i^aHai^ 



Y 



Uft 



BRADSHAW's ILLUSTRAfED 



[Sec. 3. 



fountain; and at the MuHum is a collection of 
pictures, Romanantlquitles, minerals, and fossils; , 
also a Salle des DenteUes. One old Oate has ^eat 
machicolated Towers on each side. A fligrht of 120 
broad steps brlugrs you up to the 

Cathedral^ which stands with its back to the rock, 
and is built of lara, in a half Romanesque style, ft 
has two pillars of red porphyry in front, an isolated 
pyramidal spire and low towers, a nave of three 
aisles on great pillars, good carved pulpit, a paint- 
ing of the lunocents, a carving on wood of St. 
Andrew's Martyrdom, and an altarof divers colours, 
on which stands an ebony image of the Virgin in 
gold brocade, brought (they say) from Egypt, by 
St. Louis on his return from the Crusades, 1254 ; a 
gift which produced many pretended miracles, 
besides an abbey and convents, and many royal 
▼isits. The bishop of Lc Puy was, by custom, 
president of the States of Velay. 

The Museum contains interesting collections and 
some fair pictures. At the College (which has a 
chapel with an Italian front) is a library of 5,000 
Tolumes. St, Lauren fs great Church in Basse Yille, 
near the bridge, contains the modem effigies of Du- 
guesclin, copied from tliose destroyed by the Baron 
des Adrets, when he and his fierce Calvinists at- 
tacked the town. 

The rail is continued to St. Georges d*Anrac 
and Langeae (page 159) on the Clermont-Ferrand 
and Nlmes line. Coaches to Mende. 

Among the various <^ects of notice in the neigh- 
bourhood (of which the Rocher Corneille com- 
mands a fine prospect), are— tlie Orgues d'Espailly 
(west), the CMteaux of Polignac, St. Vidal, and 
Londes (north-west), chftteau of Ceyssac (south- 
west), RocTie Rougey or Red Rock (east), the Cavemes 
des F6e8, the lac de Limagne, and numerous vol- 
canic peaks. 
[Polignac (8 miles) is a village near the Boroe, 
round the base of a basalt mass, crowned by 
the fine keep and round towers of the rained 
Castle of the Polignac family, which stands on 
the site of a Temple of Apollo {ApoUonicumy 
whence the present name), and was destroyed 
at the Revolution. Its seig^neurs were styled 
" Kings of the Mountains.'* At 11 miles beyond 
this, up the river, near All^gre, is the Crat^re, 
''4m« <le Bar^ a perfect crater, 1,590 feet 



diameter, and 127 deep, the sides being planted 
with beeches. 
Orgues d^Espailly (2 miles west of Le Puy), on the 
Borne, is a striking pyramidal mass of basalt 
pillars^ like the pipes of an organ (orgues), 
at the top of which are traces of a chftteau, 
where Charles VII., when nearly all France 
was lost to him, was proclaimed by the States 
of Velay, 1424. One of the best views of lc Puy 
is got here. 
At 18^ miles south-east-by-south of le Puy is 
Mont Mezenc, in the Cevcnnes, the highest of the 
volcanic range of Ardbche (1,940 yards above 
the sea), at the head of the Lignon, Gazelle, 
Erieuz, Ac, and not far from the Gerbier de 
Jones (1,710 yards), at the Loire's hefld. 

Mont M€zenc has the two fine Falls of la Roche 
and la Baume, on the west side, 82 and 98 feet 
down: and commands one of the noblest views 
in France, taking in the French and Swiss 
Alps, Ac] 

A raU (25 miles) is projected from Le Puy to 
Langog^e (below). 

Follow the Mende road to Chacobkac (8| miles). 
About 2 miles west of this is Bouchet Lake^ in the 
crater of a volcanic peak, 14,760 feet round, and 
92 feet deep. Costakos (4 miles). 

pRADBLLES (10 milcs) whcrc a road turns off to 
Aubenas in Ardbche (see Route 29). 

Lai]gOgne(3milcs), a station on the Nimcs and 
Clermont-Ferrand line (see Route 31). 

L'Habitabbllb and ChAteauneuf-Lb Raxdok 
(12 miles), on a rocky height, belonged to the 
seigneurs of G€vaudan, and was defended by the 
old Castle of Randon, which the English held, 1380, 
when they gave it up to Duguesctin^ who died 
in the meantime, and to whom a pillar was set np 
at L'Habitarelle, 1820. Duguesclin was a crentle 
soldier for that rugged age. On his death-bed, he 
deshred his people to remember, that wherever they 
made war, churchmen, women, children, and the 
poor, were not their enemies. 

At 15 miles further is 

MENDE. 

Population, 7,878. 

Hotel.— -Manse. The nearest station for this 
place, on the Clermont and Nfmes lines, la 
Villefort. 



Route 28.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



149 



Chief town of department Loz^rc, seat of a 
bishop, &c., in the fertile valley of the Lot, among 
the Margaride mountains (a range of the Ceven- 
nes), one of which, Mwt Mimat, 8,600 feet above 
the sea, or 650 above the town (to which it gave 
name), has the hermitage of St. PiHvat, who was 
martyred here by the Vandals. He is called the 
Apostle of the Oabale^ or people of G^vaudan. The 
streets are narrow and crooked, but ornamented 
with many fountains. Country houses are perched 
on the hills around. 

The Cathedral, with two tall Gothic spire towers 
(one slender and well carved), stands on the site ot 
St . Privates grave. At the old episcopal palace, now 
used for the Prefecture j\s a gallery of pictures; 
some by B^nard. The library contains 7,00i) 
volumes. Hermitage of St. Privat, partly cut out 
of the rock. 

In the neighbourhood are the following: — Pont 
Gothique, a bridge of five arches, one in ruins. 
Lanu^jols (4| miles east), near the Lot, has a fine 
Roman Mausoleum^ about 25 feet square, with 
Corinthian pilasters, Ac, on each face. — Bagnols 
(5| miles), and the sulphnr springs higher up the 
Lot.— St. Jnlien-de-Toumel, 5 miles higher up, a 
seat of the lords of G^vaudan. Mont Loz^re, a 
peak 4,900 feet above sea. The Cauues^ imn^ense 
desolate calcareous plateaux, with romantic 
scenery (see page 160) may conveniently be visited 
from here. 

From Mende, a rail to Rodoz passes 

Bakjac (9 miles), on the Lot; then Le Honas- 
tier, Junction for Maxvejols, a sous-prefecture 
of 4,672 population, in the valley of the Colagne. 
It was nearly destroyed by the royal forces under 
the Due de Joyense,but was restored by Henry IV. 
The line is continued to Neussargues (page 229). 

After Le Monastier comes Cluunpagliac then 

Banassac'la-Canonrgue. in a fertae vaiiey, 

where the serge stuffs of Canourgue are made; has 
remains of an ancient fort of St. Amami. Much 
Roman pottery was found here, 1829. At 3 miles 
to the north of it Is the church of St. Salmon, built 
by Pope Urban V. A bridge over the Lot leads 
from it to the villiige of Mont-Jezieu, so called 
because a colony of Jews were once settled here. 

Severac (12^ mllcs). in department Aveyron, 
is on tiie Biaur, above which is the old square 
ChAteau of its marquises, built in the 17tb century. 



Junction for RodOB (see Route 52). 
HlllaTl(19 miles) orMlUxaTltasous-prefecture ia 
Aveyron, of 17,429 souls, and the ancioat jSmilU 
anum, in a pretty part of the Tarn. It suffered in 
the Albigensian wars, and was one of the first to 
accept the reformed faith, in 1534, when the mar- 
riage of the Benedictine prior with the Abbess of 
Arpajouie took place here. General assemblies 
were frequently held in the town, and it is still 
chiefly Protestant. The stone Bridge was rebuilt 
1817; a suspension bridge is of later date. There 
are good walks about. ffo(el--Du Louvre. Good 
ewe-milk cheese (called Roquefort), gloves, vellum, 
and thread are made. Roquefort^ where it is made, 
is a small place, 10 miles west of Millau, 7 miles 
from St. Afirique, on Mont Cambelon, in the caves 
of which the cheese is kept. Above 10,000 sheep 
are fed in the environs. Generals Sarret and 
Solignac were natives. 

From Millan, the line runs down to B^zlen 
(page 267) ; past Tournemire, where a branch of 
8 miles goes off tOiSf^ Affrigue, (below), Montpaon, 
Lunas, Latow, Bousquet, Bddariettx, Ac. (See 
Route C6.) 

Bt. Affirlque (17i miles) or St. Fric, a soos-pr^fec- 
ture of 7,228 souls, and a railway station (as above), 
in a rocky part of the Sorgue, has many old Gothic 
houses, and parts of the walls, built 1857, but which 
Louis XIII. dismantled for its attachment to 
Protestantism. An old hospital is used for the 
Mairie^ and stands opposite the new palais de 
justice. The neighbouring hills are covered with 
vineyards and orchards. Good cloth is made. 
Hotel— Dvi Cheval Vert. 
[At 7 jt miles south-south-east are the warm mineral 
sulphur icattrs of Siltanks (104" temperature), 
which are used from June to September. About 
4 miles south-west of this, near the little village 
of Pont-de-Camarbs, on the Dourdon, are the 
cold Eaux-gaztuses, or carbonic acid gas springs 
of Andabre and Prugnes, which taste some- 
thinglike soda-water.] 
From St. Affriqne, by road (rail projected), to 
St. Sesnin (20 miles), on the Ranee, at the bottom 
of a circle of mountains. Then to Alban (12 
miles), with cave dwellings and dolmens. 

La Fuatsse m miles), in department Tarn; 16 
miles beyond which is Albi (see Route 52) on the 
line to TOUlOUBe, vhicb is about 80 miles further. 



r 



160 



Vftlonott to LiTTon, Frivai, and Ala^B, 

Through the silk country of Ard^che, and among the 
Cevennes Mountains; by rail, 85 miles from Livron. 

Valence station, as in Route 20. Then Llvron 
(page 108), where the branch line turns oflf by a 
serpentine line across the Rlione, past La Voulte 
(on the main line Lyons to I^lmes). to Lq Pouzizi 
(page 103), ^t thp mouth of the Ouvbze; fpn) 
which a branch q£ 1^ miles runs vJ4 ^%. jMi^f, 
&c., to 

PSIYAS (19 ipilQ* A-om Livron). 

Population, 7,812. 

HoTBU.— De la Croix d*Or; du Louvre. 

'This small capital of department Ardbcbe (the 
oM t'ivarais), in a hilly spot, where two little 
streams join the Ouvbze, among vineyards and silk 
works, was an old Protestant town, taken in 1639, 
after eight weeks* siege, by Louis XIII.. when the 
walls were razed, and the garrison pat to the 
sword. 'Some modern streets are well laid out. It 
contains a Catholic church, Protestant temple (on 
the castle site), Palaisde Justice, wlthafour-column 
portico; mnsenm; college for 200; and library of 
9,000 volumes. Silk goods, leather, oil, and spirits 
are made. Hence to Le Puy as In Ronte 46. 

The main line of rail (rive droite) proceeds from 
Lc Pouzin to Bocbemanre (I2 miles) and Le 
Tell, page 103, where the Alais line turns off past 

Aubl^as (8 miles), Vllleneuye-de-Berg (8 

miles), Vogu6 (8 miles), Ruoxns (8 miles), 

Oagnl^res, Roblac (branch to Bess^ges), St. 
Aml)roiz, to SalindreB and Alals. 

Aul)lg;na8 (5 miles from Le Tell). Thence 
through a tunnel and over 5 viaducts, past the 

Ecoutay, to 8ft.-Jean-le-Ceiitenier (4j miles), 

in tlie valley of the Cladufegne. 

yilleneuve-^e-Berg m miies) population, 

2,047. Obelisk and statue in honour of Olivier 
de Scrres, a native, wiio wrote the Theatre <JC Agri- 
culture, and first planted the mulberry. 

VQgiii^ (8 miles), on the Ardtche. Short rail to 
Attbenas (below) continued to La B^gude, fox 
Vals (below), and Nieglcs-Prades. 

[AcBBKxa, a depdt for the silk trade (popal»tion, 
'*i!4),»roongtUe volcanic peak^ of tbeYiyartis 



BBIDSHAW'S ILLITSTRATSD 



[Sec. 8« 



monntains, which are fM>vered with Tines, 
olives, mnlberrlea, Ac. It stands on a hill,' 
over the river Ard^che, above which rise Hi 
spire and domed churches, an<l the towers of 
its Bdtel de Villi, once a Castle of the Omano 
and Harcourt families. Notice the to wn wall s ; 
the Chateausc Vieux and St. Claire. Motel-^ 
Du Nord. To Le Puy by road, Ronte 46.] 

La B^gUde (3 miles), coach to 
[Vals (IJ mile), up the Volane, whic|i makes 
several falls, in a most picturesque spot, is noted 
for its tonic mineral Waters (drunk from JunQ 
to September) ; and is near the Pont de BHdon^ 
where the lava beds and basalt rocks, above 
mentioned, begin. At Ycmet are effervescing 
waters. Popqlation, 3,684. 
At 8| miles north-west is Thueyts, round which 
are vast heaps of lava, with volcanic rangti^ 
which rise towards Mezenc and the source of 
the Loire. See Route 46. 
^iegleB-Pratf $8 m miies) termination of the 

short line f ro^i YogUd.] 
From Yogti^ it is 8 mi|es, past Balaxnc, to 
BuomB, % 9m»ll» but ancient town. In the neigh- 
bourhood are megalithic reo^aina in a wild rocky 
part of the Ard^che (especially at the jtmmotk oj 
the VoisinJ, w)iere tbe river worm* itaelf through 
cavea and round masses of ropk of the moet fan- 
tastic shape (some are regular cubes) ; Yrhile the 
banks on both sides, in one part, rise, at an angle 
of 4$*, by immensQ stepa made by the vearing 
away of the rock. 

At Vallon (which has a famous stalactitic grotto), 
4i miles lower down, are two cariosities — 1st, the 
Fall of Ray Pie (122 fieet down, over a basalt 
rock), under the curve of which yon may take 
shelter in min, like the Hepste fall In Brecknock- 
shire, and which freezes in winter; and 2nd, the 
remarkable Poat d^Are, a rugged, natural bridge, 
of hard, grey limestone, stretching in one arch 
across the river, about 178 feet span, and 96 high ; 
the nneven^xoadway upon it being more than 200 
feet above the water, and 40 feet wide. It lias 
been used from Roman times; Louis XIII. built a 
fort to command the pass; and cottages stand hard 
by it- In the neighbourhood is the Qo¥jtre (or 
gulf) de la Oovtt, a savage pass, in the Usbga 
Mountains, 



Roi;te 30.] 

Correspondance from Ruoms to Labgenti&bb 
(9 miles), In the deep, rocky valley of the Ligne ; 
Is a sous-prdf ecture of 2,820 souls, and so called from 
the ead mines (from which silver, or argent, is 
extracted), worked here since the 12th century. 
The old Gothic church ia a light building, andratlier 
elegant; and there is the ancient Castle of Fanjau 
on the cliffs. Near it is a grotto, including several 
caves. 

[Janjac (9 miles north of Largentifere) lies among 
balastic rocks and volcanic peaks, in depart' 
ment Ardfeche, and on the Ardfeche river.] 

JoTEL'SE, a town of 2,082 Inhabitants, on the 
Baumc, at the foot of the Ccvennes, is 1\ miles 
from Ruoms. 

Beaulleu-Berrias, near the Chassezac, where 
the road to Vlllefort and Mende, in Lozfere, turns 
off. St. AmbroiZ m miles), on the Cfeze, in de- 
partment Gard (page 158). Thence to SalilldreS 
(7 miles) and Alals (5 miles), on the Nlmes railway. 
See Routes 30 and 31. 

ROXJTB 80- 

Avlgnon to Tarascon, Nlmes, Montpellier, 

and Cette. 

Distance from Tarascon, 65 miles; time 2f to 
4^ hours. 

Avignon to Taraacon, is miles, as in Route 
30. Thence, by a viaduct on 7 solid arches, over 
the Rhone, to 

Beaucalre (2 miles) ; is noted for a large Fair, 
lasting from 22nd to 29th July, formerly attended 
by merchants from all parts of the Mediterranean. 
As many as 300,000 people sometimes collected. 
It is held on the canal and the banks of the river. 
It is referred to in Dumas' famous novel, "Monte 
Christo.'' On the broken rocks above the town 
arc the ruins of an old Provencal Castle. Notice 
the old carved Hdtel de Montmorency. 

Population, 8,947. Hotel—'Dvi Luxembourg. 

A bridge of boats here was replaced by Sequin's 
noble Suspension Bridge, hanging on four bends, 
each 426^ feet long. It is the largest in France, 
bnt inferior to the Menai, which is itself second to 
that of Fribourg. 

The Aurelian way to Nlmes and Spain went 
through this place, which was the ancient Vgernum. 
When its square castle was built, the name was 
nllercd tf» lifthnn-Cndnnv, Ikl-quadro. <tc., from 



HAND BOOK TO FRANCE. 



151 



which the present form is derived. Outside the 
town is the pretty Gothic Oratory of St. Louis, of 
the 14th century. The Canal runs down to the 
sea, below Aigues Mortes, in connection with the 
Canal du Midi, joining the Rhone and Garonne. 
At 10^ miles north-north-eastisthe f&movLa Pont du 
Qard, as described in Route 20. 

Bellegarde (H miles), several cuttings in the 
scarped rocks are traversed. 

Manduel {H miles), beyond which is Beaulieu 
Castle, and Regagnach hill, on which megalithic 
remains are found. Pass a curved viaduct on 28 
arches ; then a cutting in the rocks, which some- 
times look like ruined castles ; then a tunnel ; and 
at length 

Grezan (2^ miles). Here the West Bank Rail 
from Lyons comes in. 

NIMBS. 
80| miles from Avignon, 450 ftom Paris. Here 
the line from Clermont Ferrand falls in (see 
Route 31). 

Population, 71,623, one-third of whom are Pro- 
testants: there are 150,000 in the department. 

Hotel. — Grand Hotel du Luxembourg. An ex- 
cellent first-class hotel for families and gentlemen. 
Post Office. — Boulevard du Grand Cours. 
Telegraph Office.— F\ace de la Salamandre. 

1®" Objects of Notice. — Cathedral — Maison 
Carrie — ^Amphitheatre — Temple of Diana — Tour 
Magne — Porte de France — Porte d'Auguste. 

This Interesting old city, the capital of dept. Qard 
(part of Languedoc), seat of a bishop, a Protestant 
consistory, a college, <fec., is most remarkable for 
its monuments of Roman antiquity. It stands i|i 
the dusty, unattractive, though fertile plain of the 
Vistre, near the Garrignes hills, or beginning of 
the Cevennes range. Some think it was founded 
by the Marseilles Greeks; the Romans, however, 
who took it, 121 B.C., and called It Nemausus, were 
its greatest benefactors, and, under Agrlppa, built 
the baths, aqueduct (from Pont du Gard), Ac; 
while Antonine, whose ancestors were natives, 
constructed the amphitheatre. It was then two or 
three times larger than now. The Vandals (407), 
Saracens (720-7), and others, so reduced it by their 
ravages, that, in 1336, it had only a population of 
400. It was a sort of republic, under consuls, Ac, 
from 122G till 1556. when it was finally joined to 
tljc French crown. 



132 



BBAl>bHAW'8 ILLOSTHATED 



[Sec. 3. 



« bert feneiml rieir of Slme. i« from the hiU, 

«^ tte btfcta. or &«n the 7V«rr ifa^^. which 

!^|ook..T«tr«ig« of country. The old town 

^Tcite I. a be*P of «n«fl dirty streets, Borronnded 

bT^eT«r«nd the f-nbourgs of the modem 

^C^J^bonlevards .re well pUnt«I, .nd .et 

Xh deU^tful gardens. In Coor. Feucberes 

n««r the station, U « handsome funntam, erected 

Lt- and on tl.e beantifnl Place de FEsplanade is 

a stiU finer foonUin, by Questel, with coloBsal 

fienres by Pradier. On one side is the Palais de 

Jotice Many of the streets are named after , 

celebrated men connected with the town, as Adrian, 

VIdal, Badnel, Petit, Saurin, the divine, and 

TraiK^t, who planted the first mulberries here. 

Si Castors Cathedral, in the Citd, is an irregolar 
i»ilc, lately rcbnilt, with bits of all styles in it, from 
Che Byxantine downwards ; the oldest part being: 
of the Uth century (the base, they say, was part 
0f A Roman temple); tlie rest belongs to the 
ISch and l«»th centuries. It contains tombs of 
Fishier and Cardinal Bcniis. 

St. PauTSt ill Pldce de la Madeleine, is a modern 
bvildln;, in the Byzsntine and Romanesque styles, 
begun 1835, by Questel, and much admired by the 
Mmois. Lengtli, 300 feet; height of spire, 177 
feet. The figures over the portal are by Collins, 
and the Wall paintings^ which form some of the 
most considerable works, in this style, of the present 
day, are by H. Fiandrin. 

The Churcli of St. Baudile, In the ovI},'al style, 
was rebuilt In 1877. There are two Protestant 
churches, Grand and Petit Temple (a Protestant 
church was founded as early as 1559, by G. Moget); 
and a synagogue in Rue Ronsny. 

An Hdtel Dion, founded 1318, by Raymond Rosi, 
was rebuilt 1830; Richard's large Hospital^ for old 
people, Ac, was founded 1686, and enlarged 1811. 
The now Hospital is worth notice. Tlie Palais de 
Justice, in the Greek classical style, wns built 1826, 
on the site of Plotinus's Roman bn silica, near the 
railwny station and Cours Fcuchbrcs. 

Tiic Maison Centrale de Detention (House of De- 
tention), on the site of Vauban's citadel and Fort de 
Rohan, serves for 13 departments, and has room for 
1,200. The Bililiothfeque of 50.000 vols, and MSS. is ! 
connected wiih the caliinct of Natural hi»tor\', On 
^e«"ollets convent is the Theatre. »»v 



Hennier, with an Ionic portico of 16 pillars. Not 
far from this is one of the great antiquarian tre«> 
snres.of the city, the 

Maison Carrie (i.e.^ Square House), the common 
name of a beautiful Temple, founded either by 
Augustus or Agrippa (the inscription beinrr gone), 
and thought to have l>een part of the public forum. 
At one time it was used as a church (St Etienne), 
then, in the 11th century, as the Hdtel de Ville, 
then as a stable 0>y one Brueys), and latterly as 
part of the Austin convent ; but it is now restored 
with great care, and occupied as a Museum of 
Antiquities, which is well worth infection. 

It stands inside a railing, on a stylobate or base- 
ment, 21| feet high, to which fifteen steps lead ; is 
externally S2§ fL*et by 40; and is surrounded on 
three sides, by fluted Corinthian pillars, having 
rich capitals, supporting a weli-carved cornice and 
frieze. Of the pillars, ten are in t*ic north portico 
(six in fron') ; and the ten down each side arc (some 
of them) lialf let into the wall, but not at equal 
distances. The door under the portico, 9f feet by 
9i, leads into the temple itself, which is 52| feet by 
36, and 36 feet high, and lit from the roof. Car- 
dinal Alberoui was so charmed with this work that 
be said it ought to have a gold case; snd Colbert 
and Napoleon I. thought of transporting it, stone 
by stone, to Versailles. It is open to the public on 
Sunday, but may be visited at any time by strangers 
with passports. 

The Ar^nes (arena), or Amphitheatre, the best 
preserved one existing, attcr that at Verona, stands 
in an open space, and is an oval, lying east and 
west, 437 feet by 332 outside; 226 feet by 124 
inside; 1,175 feet round; 70 feet high (inside, the 
ground is some feet lower). It is composed of two 
rows, of sixty equal arches each, in a plain Tuscan 
or Doric style, with a cornice between the rows, 
pilasters between the arches in the first row. and 
pillars between those in the second. These arches 
communicate with the corridors and passages 
leading inside. Four principal entrances front the 
points of the compass, that on the north being dis- 
tinguislied by a pediment and two carved bulla. 
On the north-east side you may trace l>as-rclicrs ot 
fighting gladiators, and the story of Romulus and 
Remus, suckled by the wolf; ami round the top 
(which is lirokcn towards the cast) arc holes for the 
poles, upon which the awning w«s "prcaU. In the 



Koute 30.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FiiAKC£. 



1 



inside are remainA of the 32 rows of seats (16 or 17 
may bo traced), made of cnonnuus stones, and 
ranged in four divisions, according to the rank of 
the sitters, who came in and out by the passages or 
▼omitoria. It may have held 20,000 when full; 
that is, some thousands less than the one at Aries, 
and only one-fourth of the number held by the 
Colosseum; and was used not only for gladiatorial 
combats, but for naumachia or sea-fights, water 
being brought to it by the great Pont du Gard 
aqueduct. Machicolated towers were at one time 
annexed to this classic pile; and it was turned into 
a castle, to which the Church of St. Martin was 
added (inside) in the llth century; but this and 
the houses piled against it have been long removed, 
and it is now taken proper care of. Wild bulls 
from the Camargue are sometimes baited here. A 
fine moonliglit view may be enjoyed from the hills 
to the north. 

The Museum of Art is on the first floor of tlie 
old Hopital-G^neral. It contains the "Cromwell 
before Charles I. corpse" of Delaroche, and 
Sigalon's " Locusla." In the chapel is the Gower 
collection, chiefly Dutch and Flemish jiicturos. 

At a beautiful spot, near Place de la Bouquerie, 
called Jardin de la Fontaine, after a spring which 
I ises at tlie Creux de la Fontaine, and supplies the 
town, are the remains of the 

Temple of Diana, built by Augustus, and ruined 
by Charles Martel, after hehad driven out the Sara- 
cens. Close by are ruined baths; the great aqueduct 
came in here, Into a chateau d'oau or rcservuir, 
lately discovered. A statue to Reboul, the baker 
poet, was erected 1869, In the Jardin, which also 
contains a Museum. Beyond this, on Mont Cavalier, 
Is the 

Tour Magne (Great Tower), a conspicuous mark 
for the city, and commandhig a great sweep of 
view, ascended by a good stone staircase. It is a 
ruin, six-sided at bottom, and eight-sided alwve, 
where It narrows; about 90 feet high (it might 
have been 130 once), and 65 feet through at bot- 
tom—the top being less than half as much ; and 
built of rough stones, with an arched base pierced 
witli windows, and remains of four Ionic pilasters 
on one J<ldc, In the npfwr storey. Some think It was 
a Roman watch tower; other:?, a mausoleum. Behind 
tiic cypresses here was the burial ground, where 
urMf»,auij>horjr, pottcrv.and bonpshave been found. 



Out of ten Roman Oates in the ancient walls, i 
are left. That called Porte de France, near 
hospital, on St. Gilles road, is a single plain ar 
22 1 feet high, 13 1 wide, with round towers at t 
sides. Porte dAuguste, on the Domltian Way, 
road to Rome, is more ornamented than the oth 
and was built in the year 7 B.C., along with i 
wail, as an inscription to Augustus testifies. It 1 
four arches through it, two large and two smi 
with an Ionic column between two Corlnthi 
pilasters on the face. 

Among the ancient buildings which hare dist 
peared were the Capitol, on the site of the g< 
darmerie; the Baths, in Porte St. Antoiue; a 
Basilica, where the Palais de Justice now 8tan< 
Charles VI. built a castle near Porte des Canm 
pulled down 1693. 

Several Protestant martyrs were burnt 1661, 
Place de la Salmandre (the crest of Francis I 
and on Place de Boucaire, Roland and other Can 
sard leaders were bunit, 1705. Besides the C( 
lege, there are a largo priests' Seminary, 
schools of the Brothers of Christian Doctrin 
also Protestant schools attached to an Orphi 
home, and a Normal school. A Protestant Cem 
tery is on thoAlais road, with '^Apres lamort, 
Jugement" ovorthe gate, and a statue of Immortali 
by Pradier; beyond it are the stone quarries in tl 
Garriques hills. Tertiary fossils are found on Pi 
d'Autel, a hill to the south-west, towards St. Ca 
saire, where the telegraph stands. 

Of the three railway stations, or embarcadbrcs, f< 
Alais, Beaucaire, and Montpellier, that for the la 
is the best, and is 828 feet long. The people ai 
rough and independent in their manners, an 
divided into two distinct religious and hostl 
parties, formerly styled Grande and Petite Croi^ 
Though the climate is better than that of Mai 
selUes, it Is still too cold and exposed to the mi: 
tral and vent-de-bise, for persons in weak healtl 
(Lee's Companion to the Continent.) 

Wheat is thrashed in the open air by horses ; an 
the plough, or charrue, still keeps its classic shapi 
Projects have been formed for rcclaiiiiing the dr; 
and parched district round Nianies, extending ti 
Aigucs-Mortes, by means of the Rhone. 

Among its notices are Nicot, who brought tobacci 
into France (called Nicotina, alter him) i ~ ' 



/ 



154 



BBAPBQAW'S ILLU8TEATXD 



[Sec. 3. 



the statesman; Cavalier, the Caioisard leader, was 
a baker here. He died a pensioner at Chelsea 
Hospital. Se-veral Protestant pastors are stationed 
here. The I2ev. F. OouiMer, whose life has been 
written by his nephews, the Villemins, laboured 
here for nine years. 

The mannfactnres are shawls, gloves, sillc goods, 
cotton, carpets, pianos, steam engines; there is a 
trade in grain, wine, ean-de-Tie, olive ofl, drags, 
and essences. 

See '' Tableaux pittoresque, Aic, de Nismes, etde 
ses Environs,'* by Rev. E. Frossard. 

Conveyances by rail to Alais (2 honrs), by rail to 
Bess^ges, Grand Combe, Clermont, Ac. (see Route 
81). Carriages to Pont dn Gard, 12 francs there 
and back (see Roate 20). 
[At 2^ miles south is Caissarguei, which has good 
fishing in the Vistre, and had a castle, palled 
down 1674. Names ending in argttes, so com- 
mon hereabouts, are derived from ager^ a field, 
as in this name—Cassii ager, ije.., Cassius* 
field, or farm. — ^About 12 miles south (rail, see 
page 116) is 
St. (rillet, in a vine country, on a rock near the 
Canal de Beaucaire,aud so called after 8t. Qilles 
Abbey, of which the highly carved Romanesque 
church of the 12th century remains, having 
behind it the Vis de St.OiUes\ or spiral stair- 
case. The Knights Templars had a priory here. 
Raymond, Count of Toulouse, was absolved 
here by the pope's legate after being scourged, 
1209; and here Clement IV. was bom. Nearly 
18| miles further south (rail from Aries), among 
the sandhills at the mouth of the Petit Rhdne, 
is Les Saintes Maries, and its ancient fortified 
Church, with towers and battlements, and 
carious carving^, and four paintings on wood 
by King Rentf .] 
Leaving Nimes, the next station is 

St. C^Balre(lf mile), with little to arrest atten- 
tion any more than those which follow. Here a 
line, 25 miles long, turns off to 

[AigUiBB-lIorteB, on the salt marshes near the 
sea, 8 miles from Aimargucs, on the Canal 
Grande Robine. There was a Benedictine 
abbey, called Psalmodi, here (restored 788 by 
'^^"•Tlemagne), of which the gale tower is left. 
^ at. l^nif built a castle nnd t^e Tour de 



Constance, which is 94 feet high, besides a tur- 
ret of 35 feet on top ; walls were added by hia 
son Philip, and the place now offers a complete 
specimen of a fortified town of that age, with 
its towers, battlements, machicolations, ditches, 
Ac. Louis xrV. confined some unhappy Pro- 
testants in the Constance Tower for 35 years ; 
another is called Tour des Bourgignons, from a 
massacre made by the Dauphin's troops. 1421, 
when the fort was held by the Burgundians, 
whose bodies were thrown here. The clock- 
tower is of the 13th century. The Grande 
Robine canal leads down to Grau-du-Roi, on the 
Mediterranean, whence St. Louis (Louis IX.) 
embarked for the Crusades, 1270; and where 
Charles V. landed to huld his interview with 
Francis I., in 1538. At Peccais, about 2,000 
men are employed in the government salt 
works. Fevers and mosquitoes are the tor- 
ment of this part of the coast. On the line to 
Aigues-Mortes is Vanvert, i-c. Val-vert (or 
Green Valley), population, 4,292, the centre of 
the ufine district in this quarter, and once the 
site of a chftteau, visited by St. Louis, and 
pulled down, 1628. An old castle (Beauvoison) 
of the Templars is near.] 
MUliaud (2 miles) is approached in a catting. 

Bemifl (if mile). 

Ucband (li mile), or Uchaux, in the midst of 
vineyards. 

The road is crossed by a Roman bridge over the 
Vidourle, where we enter department H^rault. 

Verg^ze m miles). Here are the old mineral 
springs of Boullens, qsefnl in rheumatism. 

Aiinies-Viyes (l mile) manulactarcs "living 
waters," (the signification of its name), in the form 
ef eau-de-vie. 

Gall^rsues m miie). 

Bridge over the Vidourles, noted for sudden 
freshets. 

Limel (3^ miles), a town of 6,793 souls, in depart- 
ment Hdrault, trading in muscat or sweet wines, 
liqueurs, and eau-de-vie; and standing in a fertile 
plain at the head of Lunel Canal, among vineyards 
and oliveyards. It has a spire church and a foun- 
tain on Cours Vslout^ra. It had a famous syna- 
gogue in tlie 16th century; and walls, which 
were raaed by Richelieu, 1632. ^pM,— Ptt Palab 
Royal. 



Boute 30.J 



HAND-BOOK TO VBANGB* 



165 



Here the line from Aries comes in (see Route 30). 
From Lunel, a rail, 50 miles long, runs np to 
Sommi^rei (below) and QulBSac; St. Hip- 
polyte (below) ; Gangei ; and Le Vlgan (below). 
At QulBSao a branch turns to L^zan (for 

Anduse, below), Mas-de-Gardles, and Alals. 

[SqXQXnl^res (8 miles from Lunel), a thriving 
place of 3,821 population, up the Vi4ourle, 
under an old Castle, and having largo manu- 
factures of flannel and cloth. Nqt far off is 
Villevieilk (i.e. Old Town), where a Roman 
Ijridge and other antiquities were discovered 
by M. E. Dumas, an eminent geologist here. 
Hotel— Dm Solell. 

St. Hlppolyte l9 Fort (population, 4,516), 
near the head of the Vidourle, with a Pro- 
testant temple, built out of the fort erected to 
overawe the professors of that faith, which 
fort was formerly the Chateau of the seigneurs. 
Hotel.— Vm Cheval Blanc. 

lid Viganis another charming place (and a sous- 
prefecture) of 5,874 souls, on the Arre, near Mont 
r:^sperou, in the Cevennes, with many coun- 
try houses of the Nimes and Montpellier gentry. 
A Gothic bridge crosses the river. There are 
Catholic and Protestant churches, cotton and 
•ilk thread mills, and, on the principal Place, 
a bronze Statue of D'Asscu, a young captain of 
an Auvergne regiment, who fell at Clostercamp, 
in Flanders, 1760. Making a reconnaisance at 
night, he suddenly came upon the enemy, 
advancing to surprise the French, who threat- 
ened to shoot him if he spoke. Without 
hesitation he rushed on them, shouting, "^ 
moil Auvergne, ce sent les ennemis " (Follow me, 
men, here is the enemy!) and fell pierced by 
scores of balls. These words are cut on his 
statue. Hotel— Bu Cheval Vert. 

A hill near cbftteau Marave offers a fine point of 
vievf. There are mineral waters at Cauvalat 
(omnibus); and, up the Arre, are coal mines, 
most of this district being ^ coal basin. 

At Qnlasao, 13^ miles from Sommi^res, a U^e 
goes off to L^zan (for Anduze) and Alais. 

Axi(Iuze,the Roman Andmia, a pieltiresque town, 
near tl^e fine ChAteau of Tcmac (a key to the 
Cfyennes), where the Caroisards begAii to rise 



against their oppressors, in the time of Lonis 
XTV., and where also Marshal Villars made 
proposals of peace to their chief leader, Jean 
Cavalier. They were eventually subdued by 
the Duke of Berwick, 1705. Population, 8906. 

On the west is the fine valley of ^t. Jean d* 
Oat'donnenque. The ragged rocks of granite, 
grauwacke, limestone, gypsum, Ac., are wqrth 
notice; quercus coccifera, an oak yielding a> 
beautiful dye, abounds here. 

To the south-west is the castle where Floriattt 
the French novelist, was bom; also Sauve, on 
the Vidonrle, where fourches, or wooden pitch- 
forks, are made, and lead mines worked; 
and Lasalle (population, 3,404), which has silk 
mills on the Garden, and gypsum quarries.] 

A road, 41 miles, leads from Anduze to Floiac, 

past St. JeaxiHlu-Oard and Le Pompidou. 

Sz. Jeav-dij-Gabp, population 8,586, has a 
Roman Tour de I'Horloge. 

Lb Pompidou (14} miles), on the Gardon,under the 
ridge of the Cevennes, which divides the depart- 
ments of Lozfere and Gard. Cassagnas (about 6 
miles north-east), with its caves, was one of the head- 
quarters of the Camisard leaders. 

Flobac (14 miles), a sous-prefecture in department 
Lozfere, of 1,978 souls, in the valley of the Tarn, 
where the Tarnon and Minente join i(, aptiong the 
Hautes Cevennes. It began in a castle, of which a 
part of two low battlemented T<ncer9 ure leCt ; and 
has but one main street, with a church, a Protectant 
chapel, and palais de jastice. JTbtel— Melquinon. 
The sides of the rock are covered with vines, cl^est- 
nuts, and oaks* 

About 7i miles up the Tarn is Pont Monfvtrt, or 
Ste. Germain de Calverte, under Mont Loz^re 
(4,890 feet high), where the Camlsards murdered 
the priest Chayla, 1703, a cruel persecutor of the 
Protestants, for which their leader was burnt alive. 
Pope Urban V. was born at Grizac, near this. 

From. Florae it is 25 miles by diligence to 
MendO (Route 28), over the Col do Montmirat, 
3,450 feet above sea. On the line from Lynel to 
Montpellier, the first station is 

Lnnel-Viel (3 miles) is the best place for mus- 
cat teinis, above mentioned. Fossil remains are 
abundant in the limestone. 




r 



156 



BAADSUAW S ILLUitTRATED 



[Sec. 3. 



Valergnes (s miles). 8t. Bres (3 miles). 

BaUlargues (l mile) is near Golombi^rcs, a 
pleasing spot among the rocks of the Carroax, not 
far from Pont-du-Verdicr, a bridge of one arch 
from rock to rock. 

St. Annes (2| miles). Two miles from here is 
the large Etang de Manguio. Les Mazes (U mile]. 
From this it is 8| miles to Montpelller station, a 
handsome pile approached by a tunnel. 

MOirrPELLIBB, 

Population, 69,258. 

H0TBL8.~Neyet ; da Midi; du Choval Blanc; 
Grand Hotel Biscarrat; Hotel Bannel. Caf^s dc 
France; de la Comedid; du Commerce; du Palais; 
duMus^e; du Pavilion. 

English Church Service. Free Church of Scotland. 

English Physicians and Chemist. 

i®" Objects op Notice. — Tour des Pins — 
TriumphalArch — Cathedral— l^cole de Medicine — 
Botanic Gardens. Aqueduct. Musde Fabre. 

Capital of department H^rault (part of the pro- 
vince of Languedoc), scat of a military division, of 
a bishopric, A;c., on a rocky hill, on the Lez, 
about 2^ miles from the Mediterranean. It was 
founded in the 8th century, when Charles Martcl 
destroyed Maguelonne (then a town of the Sara- 
cens), and, under the name of Mons Possulanus, 
became noted for its commerce and School of 
Medicine. The latter appears to have gained for 
it the reputation of being a peculiarly healthy 
spot for invalids, though other places along this 
shore are as healthy and more beautiful. Matthews, 
in the " Diary of an Invalid,'" says, ^^ It is true there 
is almost always a clear blue sky, but the air is 
sharp and biting, and you are continually assailed 
by the bise (north wind) or the marin. The one 
brings cold, the other damp." 

One of its counts married a daughter of a king 
of Aragron, whose descendants sold it to Philip de 
Valoia. It was taken by Louis XIII. as a strong- 
hold of the Hnguenots, to keep whom in check' he 
built the Citadel, of which tfiere only remains the 
Tour des Pins, whence there is a fine view of the 
cultivated gardens, vineyards, woods, and country 
around; the sen, Mont Canigon in the Pyrenees, 
♦he Cevennea being visible. At the other end 



of the hill is Place du Peyrou, a large, regular, well- 
planted square, built by Daviler. Here stand 
Dorbay's triumphal Arch to Louis XIV. in one 
comer, his bronze statue in the centre, and a six- 
sided domed ch&teau d'eau, faced with Corinthian 
pillars. To this, water is brought from St. Cle- 
ments by an Aqueduct, eight miles long, built 
1763-9, by H. Pitot, and distributed to 29 foun- 
tains in the town — one of which, in Place du 
Theatre, has a group of the Graces. This aque- 
duct is mostly under ground, but near the city it 
runs on an imposing double row of arches (183 
arches in one row, 53 in the other), 92 feet high. 

Muset Fabre, bequest of Baron Fabre (pupil of 
David) to his native town. It inclndes prints, 
sketches, medals, statues, paintings (about 490) of 
the Ficnch, Italian, and Dutch Schools; with 80,000 
books, of which 15,000 belonged to h's friend Alfieri; 
and is open thrice a week. Many of the paintings 
are worth notice; one among them is Sir J. 
Reynolds's " Young Samuel, " a beautiful specimen, 
and a copy of Ingres' famous StratonicCf the 
original of wliich is in the collection of the Due 
d'Aumale. Collection Bruycu; modern pictures. 

St Pierre's Cathedral is the largest and ugliest of 
all tlic churches, of which there arc four or five. It 
is 180 feet long, and has three towers, near one of 
which is the porch, curiously resting on two cylin- 
drical pillars or turrets, with conical tops, ten side- 
chapels, Santarillc's statue of the Virgin, and paint- 
ings by Bourdon (" Simon Magos"), Jean do Troy 
("Healing of the Cripple"), and Ranc C' Power of 
the Keys "). Notre Dame des Tables is now the 
College. There are two Protestant Temples 
(churches), one having a fine facade. 

Near the cathedral is tlie ancient machicolated 
Ecole de M4decine, first founded, they say, by the 
Arabs (or Saracens), and seated in what was the 
old bishop's palace. Among the objects in it worth 
notice are, busts and portraits of eminent pro- 
fessors, from the 18th century (besides a bronze of 
Hippocrates brought from Cos) ; the patched robe 
in which licentintes are dressed, once worn by 
Raibelais; the lecturer's seat in the omphitheatre 
(vrhichhoidi 2,000); a marble piece of antiquity 
from Nlsroes ; a library of 50,000 volumes, and 600 
MSS. in various languages. Including Tasso's plan 
of his ''JeriiBaleip Delivered," and Qacen Chris- 



Route 31.] 



ItAKD-fiOOK TO FRAKCfi. 



157 



^ 



tina'a papers; and a room of anatomical models in 
wax, chiefly from Italy, but some by Delpucch. 
TbeJardin des Plantfs, where de Candolle lectured, 
is in the neighbourhood, and was begun by Richier 
de Belleval, 1693, in the time of Henry IV.; it con- 
tains 8,000 plants, many being rare exotics, and 
one, a cypress, called the Tree of Montpellier. In a 
cornet Is a tablet to Narcissa, *'NArciss89 placandis 
manibus," supposed to be Young's daughter-in-law, 
Mrs. Temple. She died of consumption, and was 
buried here, but her body was afterwards moved to 
Lyons, to escape the bigoted fury of the populace. 
This town is still reckoned a great Catholic strong- 
hold ; and the feeling of both parties is so great 
that they aso different caftfs, and will hardly meet 
In society. — (Tsollopk's Impressiotu of a Wanderer.) 

St. Eloi's Hospital, with nearly 700 beds in it, was 
founded OS far back as 1183. The general hospi- 
tal, built 1682, is near an asylum for Insenset (luna- 
tics). There is a prison for 450 on the solitary 
system, opened lfi44 ; also a new PalaU de Jtutiee^ 
near the triumphal arch, composed of a centre ten 
column portico, with wings. The public Bibliothique 
has 80,000 volumes, open November to August, 
except Thursdays and Saint days, 11 to 4 andT^ 
to 10. The l^eatre^ on the citadel esplanade, built 
1786, is generally used as a Bourseor exchange ; the 
chamber of commerce is at the Hdtel St. Cdme ; 
the Tour de I'Observance serves as a telegraph. 

Up the little stream of the Merdanson, you come 
to the fountain of Jacques Coeur, Charles YII.'s 
goldsmith, who was a great benefactor to Mont- 
pellier. 

Among a long list of natives are, James, King of 
Aragou ; Bourdon, the painter ; Count Daru ; and 
Cambacbres. 

Manufactures of blankets, liqueurs, chemicals, 
verdigris, wax and other candles; and a trade in 
these, with wine, silk, olive oil, &c. 

Excursion by rAil to Lattes and Palavas, a bath- 
ing place with an iron spring; to the Pic St. Loup 
(S,076 feet), ruins of ChAteau Montferrand ; the 
Source du Lez, cascade, grottoes, &c. Rail to 
AniaAd (8,000 inhabitants, romantic neighbour- 
hood) and Rabieux. 

Several decayed Porte are along the coast, which 
is lined witii low niarwhy lagoons or rtang*^ and 
MiiUhills. 



[At 6 miles south, on one of th&se etangt (de 
Thou), is the old cathedral Church qif Mague- 
lonne, a mixture of the Arab or Norman, and 
the Gothic, begun in the 7th century, and 
altered 1064, and fortified against the pirates. 
It is now a barn. The town was ruined in the 
8th century by Charles Martel. 

It is related that, as late as 1226, money was 
coined at Malquiel, under the authority of the 
bishops of Maguelonne, which bore the effigy of 
Mahomet. This was meant to conciliate his 
followers, who, as well as the Jews, formed 
important colonies here.] 

The next station to Montpellier is 

ViUensnyd (5 miles), so called when the canons 
of Maguelonne built a church here in the 12th 
century. 

Mlrdval (3f miles), in a track of sandy marsh. 
Away to the west of it is Piguan^ with an old 
castle of the lllh century, and the ancient half 
Moorish Abbey Church of Vignogoul, older than the 
12th century. 

Frontlgnan (4| miles), a decayed port, still 
celebrated for its sweet muscat wine, which in 
raised in what appears a moat uninviting spot. The 
curious fortified CAfireA and tower attract notice. 
Population, 3,601. 

The line runs hence on a alight embankment be- 
tween the sea and 6tang (leaving the Balaruc 
Springs on the west) to 

Cette, 4i miles further, at the junction with the 
Chemin de Fer du Midi (sec Route 06). 



Nlmes to AlaiB, Grand Combe, Brloude, 
and Clermont-Ferrand. 

Distance 190 miles, through the hilly and in- 
teresting districts of the Cevennes. 

By rail from Nlmes to Alais, 81 miles, thence 
116| miles to Brloude, thence 43} to Clermont- 
Ferrand. The line passes several rocky trenches, 
and many tunnels (there are 101 between 
Alais and Langeac — one 1,800 feet long) and 
some well-constructed bridges and viaducts. This 
way from Marseilles to Paris, vid Ntmes, Ac, is 
more direct and Interesting, as far as scenery goea, 
than tlie line ria Lyons and Uijon. 



r 



158 



BltAI>»BAw'8 ILJLVfltBA«£l> 



[^Cl6C« 3« 



Mlmeft, as in Route SO, 

HaB-de-Ponge (6| miles). 

FoflB-^tttrA-Oardon (6i miles). 

Bt. Oenlis de MaigoifeB (3| miles). 

NoziireB (^i miles). Ftom here, branch line, 
IS mlleo, to 

CTb^B rpopnlatloti, 6,089), on the Avl^on rail, 
8) miles from Pont dii Gard by rail (see 
page 114), on OliTe-^brered rocks above the 
Auzon. It is the Roman Utttia^ which had 
a temple to Angustus, and sent a bishop to 
the Council of Aries, a.i>. 456. In 1560, bUhop 
and all went over to the reformed faith, for 
which Louis XIII. garrisoned it, and razed 
the walls. It was latterly a duchy, in the 
Crussol family (the first peers of France), 
whose old Ch&teau remains, with high walls 
and corner towers, like the Bastile at Paris ; 
the chapel has stained windows, and tombs 
of the Dukes from 1660. 

St. Therri's Cathedral was burnt in 1611, except 
the fine circular Romanesque Towtr of six stages 
(once eight, they say), to which a modem 
church is added, with a portrait of Cardinal 
Pacca. St. Etienne's was the Jesuits' church. 
An ancient crypt, in another part, has an 
ill-made figure of Christ, with the stigmata. 
The large bishop's palace is now the H6UI de 
Ville, with a beautiful park behind. A little 
beyond is the house where Racine lived, 1661-2, 
when studying theology here; it commands a 
fine prospect over the valley of Qisfort , in which 
is a i^rotto called Temple dcs Druides, with a 
dolmen close by ; also the Tournal toWer and 
the Fontaine d'Eure, which sUpt>lied the great 
aqueduct to Kismes. A statue to Admiral 
Brueys, a native. Many Roman inscriptions 
have been found. A few silk goods are made. 
JTo/rf.— Diehard.] 

Boucolran. (li mile), on the Garden, which 
sometimes floods it, is a small village, with mills, 
Gothic-looking houses, and. an old Chftteau with a 
square tower, on a rock. 

NerB (2| miles) on a hUI, overlooking the fine 
valley of Beatt-rlvage, oh the Qardon, with the 
n«v«nntt« In thft dlttanee. 



YteeaobreB (H mile), on a hill side. PopnlsC'^ 
tlon, 906. 

liias-deB-OardieB (4} miles), junction for 
Qulssac. 

8t. Hiialreme^BntlmiaB m miles). 

AlalS (3{ miles), a sous-pr^feciure in department 
Gard, of 24,356 population, the ancient Ahsia, and a 
thriving town, among coal and iron mines, under 
the Ccvennes mountaiiis, where the Cfeze meets the 
Gnrdon d'AIais and Gardon de Mialet. It had a 
leper hospital for the crusaders in the time of St. 
Louis, and was held by the English when given up, 
1422, to Charles VII. Having become 4 head- 
quarters of the French reformed church* (which 
held a synod here, 1620, under Dumoulin), It was 
besieged and taken by Louis XIII., who razed ita 
wdlls. Louis XIV. not only built a cltiadel but sent 
a bishop to bring them back agalH to the faith, 
though without success. The fort is how a law 
court. There are a Gothic cathedral Church, a 
bishop's palace of the 13th century, silk mills, Ac. 

HoUU. — Du Commerce; du Luxemburg. 

In the neighbourhood areth^ pretty wdlks on the 
Gardon, the Hermitage, part of a convent, and the 
sulphur mines of St. German de Vatgsghe ; by an- 
other wiiy, in the valley of the Callaigon, yon pass 
the Tour de Pare, belonging to General Meyiiadier, 
lind part of Puech-^-Omdras Ahbef, bnrtlt by the 
CdmisArds, who were hunted down In the religious 
wars of 1704. Some mineral springs herb Are use- 
ful as tonics and in skin diseases. 

From Alais the rail to Privas and Valence 

passes Sallndres and St. Jullen de Cassagnac 
(a branch to St. Jean-de-Val^riscle and Le 
Martinet) to St. Ambroiz, on the G^ze, in the 

midst of fine scenery, with silk mills and glass 
works. (See Route 29.) 

Six miles west of Alais is Mialet, which is noted 
for its mountain Caves, in whicli bones have been 
found; and also as the birth-place of Roland, the 
Camisard leader, in the religious wars, who used 
to hide here, and who, being captured by Viilars, 
was burnt alive at Nimes. 

From AlAis the main line to Clermont Ferrand, 
viA Villefort, Brioude, Ac., passes TtHBOMSttt to 



Houte 32.J 

Grand-Combe-ia-Pide, the centre of the coal 
and iron district of La Grand CombO. Popula- 
tion of the Commune, 13,141 . Coftl la plentiful, both 
anthracite and inflammable. The original steam- 
engines were made in England, and brought here 
by way of Cette. Zinc is also produced. The 
coal-field reaches to St. Ambroix (page 158). A 
lino is projected to Uz^s. 

After La LevadO, there is a succession of 
viaducts and tunnels (one of nearly 1,900 yards) to 

Chamborlgaud (6i miles), where there are coal 
mines. Another snccession of tunnels and vladncts 
brings as to CtetloUiaO (.H miles), at the head of 
the Cbze, &c., nnder Mont Loz^re (5,680 feet abore 
the sea), where the wolf is hunted. 

Five tunnels, viaduct, and seven more tunnels, to 

Villefort (8 miles), on the borders of the Ard^che 
and Liozbre. It lies in the narrow valley of the 
Devfeze (crossed by an old bridge), and is noted for 
its lead mines. 

Gorrespondance for BagnoU- les-Bains (34 miles) ; 
a health resort under Mount Pervenche, with hot 
springs, an dtabllssement thermal, hotels, and old 
rnins. 

La Bastlde (13 miles). Five miles from here 
are the hot alkaline and solphur baths of St. 
Laurent let Baint, in a wild bat healthy spot on 
the Borne, with ^tabllssements de bains. 

tangogne (12 miles), on the Allier, in the 
Cevennes, one of the highest places in the depart- 
ment of Loz^re, ncaf the head of the Loire. 
It has a Chtaxh, which belonged to an abbey of the 
10th century, founded by the Viscounts de G^vaudan. 
Rail projected to Le Puy. Population, 3,662. 

[GBANDRnEUx (11 miles west-north-wcst) is near 
Agrippa'8 Boman way ft-om Lyons into Spain, 
and has an old square tower.] 

Down the Allier to Jonch^eB (llj mlies), 
Alleyras (13 miles), with continual tunnels and 
viaducts, to Langeao (22 miles), at the junction 
of the Desge, a small place with coal mines; 
St. Georges d'Aurac (4| miles), whore the 
junction for Le Puy (Route 28) is made; Paul- 
liagnet (5 miles) ; and BriOUde (11 miles), on 
the Allier. For which, and the remainder of the 
rail to Clermont-Ferrand, see Route 46. 



aAND-:»OOlt ¥0 VRAKce. 



139 



Montpelller, up tlie H^rault, to Mende. 

Distance to Le Yigan, about 39 miles. Road to 
Ganges, thence rail to Le Vlgan. 
Montpelller, as in Route so. 
MoNTFKKKiER (4 miles), a little to the east of the 
road, has a pleasing appeftrance, being built on a 
volcanic peak about 140 feet above the sea, on or 
round which are grouped an old Ch&teau of its 
marq[uises, and a park stretching to the Lcz. 
Another lava peak, Valmahargucs, is to the west. 
One of these heights was the site of a Roman or 
Gaulic town, called Suhttantion and Sextantio, ac- 
cording to inscriptions and remains of walls found 
there. 
St. Gelt-du-Fesc (3 miles). Grotto of Coucolier. 
[At 8 miles to the east is Prades, at the head of the 
Lez, which has its source in a ravine (something 
like Vaucluse), behind the Castle of Restin- 
cHferes,] 
St. Martin-de-Londres (8 miles). 
St.Guilhem-du-Desert (4^ miles) in a deep gorge 
of the Htfrault, among the rugged limestone peaks 
of the Cevennes range, was celebrated for its 
abbey, of which there remains the Romanesque 
Church, having altar and tombs older than the 
11th century. Above is the large old Castle^ cal led 
the Cabinet du G^ant, which belonged to the 
giant Gallone, who fought with St. Guilhem. In 
one part is a primitive Suspension Bridge, in the 
Indian style, running from cliff to cliff, about 127 
feet long. 

St. BAITZILB-DE-P17TOI8 (8} mllcs), a small villago 
on the H^rault, ia remarkable for a succession of 
caves, in the limestone, called (in the patois of this 
part) Baouma de las Doumaiseku, or the Ladies' 
Cavern (another name is the Grotto of the Ganges), 
full of stalactites and stalagrmites of all shapes. 
Ganges ( S miles) , further up the H^rault. Rail to 
Le Vlgan, on the Arre, about 6 miles north- 
west of this (page 155). 

From Le Yigan, 42 miles, by public conveyance 
to Meyruels, a small town with prehistoric 
grottos, whence it is 22 miles to Florae. From 
Florae by diligence over the Col de Mentmirat, 
and past the escarpments of the Causse M^an^ a 
vast calcareous plateau, with deep gorges, to 
Mende, 25 miles further. 



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160 



bkaoshaa^'V illustrated hand-book to fuanck. 



[Sec. 3. 



ROXJTB 88. 



MontpeUier to Lod^ve and to MlUiau. 

Distance to MilhaUf 75 miles. 

MontpelUer, described in Route SO. About 
Z\ miles distant is the very old Church of Celle 
Neuv€^ composed of larg^e, well-cut stones. 

Past Fatir^gUieB (7 miles), &c., to 

Montbailn (6 miles), a station for Gigkac, 
on the H^rault, which a curious bridge crosses, 
has a good church, a square tower, and the 
chapel of Notre Dame, on the heights, thought 
to have been a temple of Vesta. A little higher 
up the river is Aniane, where St. Bennet was bom; 
the old Abbey, founded 782, by a count of Mague- 
lonno, is here. 

Panllian (ISf miles), where the line from 
B^aiers comes in (Route 66), tid Pczenas, Ac. A 
branch of 24 miles is open to Boujan-NeflBl^B, 

Qablan, Faug^ea, and B^darieux, on the 

H^rault line. 

Clermont rHdrault(7| miles), a small town, 
where they make cloth, cotton, &c. It has an old 
castle, and a Gothic church, with a good rose 
window. 

Lodivd (11 i miles), a sous-prefecture with 
9,060 souls, on the Lergue (a branch of the Htfrault), 
in a pretty valley at the foot of the Cevennes 
mountains, which are cultivated at the top. The 
old Church of St.Fulcran (a cathedral till the Revo- 
lution), which was part of St. Sauveur's abbey, has 
a great square machicolated Tower^ with turrets, 
&c., and was fortified against the Albigenses 
when the town was walled round. It has a mine- 
ral spring ; and woollen manufactures for the 
army employing 7,000 hands. Cardinal Fleury 
and General Lagrarde were bom here. It is the 
ancient Luteva. Hot^s.—Du Nord ; du Cheval Vert. 



By road to LlUULS on the line from Bfedarieux 
to Millau, (1,28J Inhabitants), 10 miles. 

From Paullian (above) 18 miles to Faug^res, 
then 6 miles to BMariOUX on the Orb, a town of 
6,678 inhabitants. 

From here there is a line to St. Pons, Castres, 
and Albi, see Route 66. 

To Lunas (above) 8 miles. Thence by rail past 
several unimportant stations and through two 
long tunnels (1,840 and 1,880 yards) to 

Toomemlre (28 miles) junction forSt. Afifrique 
and station for Roquefort (see page 149), whence 
it is 16 miles to 

nillau, already described (see Route 28), on 
the Tarn. 

From Millau the line is continued by a series 
of viaducts, tunnels, and bridges over the Lnmcn- 
sonnesque and the Aveyron to SevoraC-lO- 
GhfLteaU (buffet), with 8,425 inhabitants, the 
junction for 

Bodez, see Route 52. 

From Millau 7 miles to Qu^zagnet station, 
whence there is a carriage road 21 milea to 
Meyrueia on the Jonte, a town of 1,682 inhabi- 
tants, passing through Le Bozier. From here an 
excursion can be made by carriage in 2 boura to 
Montpellier-le-Vieux^ sometimes called La Citidu 
IHaUe, an enormous mass of eroded Dolomite rocks 
covering about 2,500 acres. Guide required. 

From Meyruels, by carriage road, 32 miles to 
Mende (page 148), passing through part of the 
Caussc^^ at StO. EnlmiO (megalitbic remains). 
The Cauucs are vast calcareous plateaux, water- 
less and tree-less, with huge gorges of the most 
romantic description, and well worth a visit 



SECTION IV. 



BOUTES TO THE OENTBE AND BOUTB-WEST OF FBANC£. 

IN CONNECTION WITH THE OHBHIN DE FBR D'ORLEANB, or Qrand Ceairal ItaU- 
way of Franco ; supplying sceaux, corbeil, Orleans, blois, tours, poitiers, 

ANGOULEME, BOBPBAUX, ANGERS, NANTES, ST. NAZAIRE, NIORT, ROCHEFORT, 
LA HOCHELLE, LIMOGES, PEBIGUEUX, BOURGES, NEVEBS, MOULINS, VICHY, 
CLERMONT-FERRAND, MONT DORE, BJIIOUDE, ST. ETIENNE, LYON, Ac; IN rpHE 
OLD PROVINCES OF QRLEANNAIS, TGURAINE, ANJOU, POITOU, BBRRI, BOITR- 
«0H|rAI9, MARCHB, UVOU^IN, FE^IGORD, AUVEI^ONE. 



Paris to Sceaux, Onay. and LUnours. 

Distance, 7 miles to Bceaux; trains every hour; 
about every other hour to Orsay. Embarcadfere, 
Place Deufert-Rochereau. 

Traversing the park of Montsouris, and passing 
Iji view the great Bicetre Ho$pUal^ Petit Mont- 
rouge and the fortifications, Montrouge quarries 
and its new fort, you come to 

Sceanz Ceinture (Station). 

Aroueil-Gacban (31 miles), so called from the 
aqueduct made by the Romans over the Bi^vre, 
two arehn of which are seen in the modern aque- 
duct, built 1613-21 by Desbrosscs, for Mary de 
Medici,'8 palacp at the Luxembourg. It runs over 
25 arches, is 92 feet high, and 1,200 long. The 
church is of the 13th-15th centuries. Laplace, the 
mathejnatician, resided here. Several country- 
seats are aboui. Caehctn^ across the valley, was a 
country-seat of Philippe le Bel. 

Bourg-la-Ralne (U mile), on the high road to 
ICtampcs and Orleans, a pretty place, with a 
country-seat of Gabrielle d'Estr^es, "la Belle 
(vabrielle," mistress of Henry IV., whose decorated 
chamber is still shown. It was in the prison here 
that Condorett, the philosopher and Girondist, 
poisoned himself, 17f4. The cattle market, or 
MarcM de Setaux^ it held near this erery Monday. 

L 



To the north-west are Chatillon, on a hill, and 
Bagneaux, on another hill— the latter a healthy 
place with an old church of the 12th or 13th cen- 
tury. L'Hay and Chevilly lie south-west, and 
Berny Chateau beyond the viaduct. 

[Here the Ihie to Sceaux turns off. This 
serpentine rail has many small curves }n it 
to accomplish the ascpnt to Sceaux, which \s 
24 yards higher than Fontenay, and onjy 840 
yards distant, as the crow flies. For this 
pui-pose the patent jointed carriages of M. 
Arnoux are used. The gauge is 6 feet. Little 
wheels, fastened to the rims of the great pnet, 
keep the carriages on the line. They turii 
freely, and require no buffers. Curves of only 
62 feet radius are thus safely passed. 

Fontenay-aUX-Roses (6| miles from Paris), a 
charming village, was so called from the rose 
trees once cultivated here. The house in 
which Scarron lived belonged to Ledrn Rollin. 
The vine, strawberry, Ac, are grown. 

Sceaux (7 miles from Paris), pronounced "So," 
a sous-prefecture in department Seine (popu- 
lation 8,^67), had a chfttcau, built 167^, by 
Colbert, the statesman, and enlarged by the 
Duchesse de Maine, who married Madame de 
Montespan*8 son. Here Voltaire wrote |iis 
" SemiramU:" Jt was pull9d down at the 
Revolution, except the orangerie or park, now 
a public garden for Sunday balljs. 



162 



BRADBUi.W's ILLUttTKATED 



[Sec, 4. 



Near the Gothic cbarch of St. Jean, which con- 
tains a marble ''Baptism of Christ," is a 
pillar to Florian, the novelist, who died here, 
1794. The Hdtel de Ville is a good building. 
Plessis, and the Jorest of Mendon, are to the 
west ; also Robinson (an allasion to Robinson 
Cmsoe), and its chestnnt trees; Anlnay, where 
Cliftteaabriand wrote his ''Martrrs," and 
other works; and Chatenay, where Voltaire 
was bom, 1694. It was afterwards the resi- 
dence of Eugene Sue. 
Correspondances to Aulnay and Chatenay. 
Bemy, near Bemy Chfttean. 
Antony (if mile), on the Bifevre. Correspond- 
ance to Wissous and le Petit Massy. 

MMBJ (If mile). Coriespondance to Verribres 
and its wood; to Morangis and Chilly. VUgenis, 
near this, belonged to Jerome Bonaparte. 

PalaitdaU (6f miles), on the Yvette, imder a 
hill, was so called from itsi>ato/t«fn of the early 
kings, and has a church of the 12th century. 
Correspondance to Longjumeau, Lagrange, and 
Champlan. Near here is Igny Chftteau (built in 
1852, In the Renaissance style, by M. Toumeux). 
It is hence 9 kil. to Versailles, past Jony-en-Josas 
and Buc aqueduct, which supplies the palace with 

Up the Yrette, after LOS^re, you come to 
Orsay (3 miles) and its moated Chdteau, in a 
picturesque part of the river. Then Qlf (2 miles), 
8t. R^my (3 miles), the station for Dampierre, 
the fine seat of the Due de Luynes; and for 
GllO'VX9tUI6i which has an old church and castle 
rukis, with a good view from another ruin, the 
Madeline, over the Yvette. 

Bonllay-les-Tronz, followed by 

LlmOUTB (24 miles). Population, 1,207. Corre- 
spondances to Brlls, Forges-les-Bains, St. Amoult, 
Rochefort, and Bonnellos. 



SUB-SECTION A.— ROUTES TO THE SOUTH- 
WEST, A'lA THE LINE TO BORDEAUX. 



Paris to Orleans, Blois, Tonrs, Poitiers, 
Angoultaie, and Bordeaux. 

By railway. The Station is at Qnai d'Austerlitz 

— about 3 miles from the Rouen terminus; 3 

om the Northern; 2| miles from the 



Eastern ; f mile from the Lyons; 1| mile from the 
Rennes and Brest. The line to Corbeil was opened 
1840; to Orl<Sans, 1848; to Bordeaux (throughout), 
1853. Distance to Orleans, 75 miles, several trains 
a day, 2 hours 10 minutes to 3 hours 15 minutes. 
To Bordeaux, 359 miles; 9 hours 10 minutes to 
15 hours. Baggage allowed, 66 lbs. Omnibuses 
meet all the trains from the branch offices; fare, 
30 cents. (3d.), exclusive of baggage. The direct 
Route to Tours, vid Bretlgny and Yenddme, 
instead of through Orleans, shortens the distance 
to Tours and places beyond only two miles. 

The line runs out by Barri^re de la Oare and 
Pont de Bercy, on the Seine, past the bastions at 
the bac or ferry, and past Ivsr (population, 22,357) 
and its fort and larg« workshops, with Grand 
Gentilly, and the Chetnin de Ceinture^ to the left. 
[Gentilly (3 miles from Paris), on the Bi^vre, is 

near Villeroy chftteau, and the famous 
Bieitre^ once a chftteau of Jean, Duke of Berri, 
and a military hospital, now a vast atyhtm^ for 
3,000 old men and for lunatics, in a building 
about 1,000 feet square. (The Salp^triire is a 
similar one for women.) In the court is a great 
well (puits de Bicfitrc), 7 feet diameter, and 187 
feet deep, in the rock ; the water is conveyed 
thence to a reservoir, 57 feet square. Work- 
shops, gardens, a farm, &c., are attached. It is 
protected by Forts Bic6tre and Ivry. The 
Dake of Berri's chftteau replaced a Carthusian 
house, built by a Bishop of Windtetter^ whence 
comes the present name — Winchestre,BicoBtre, 
Bic^tre.] 

Vitry-BOr-Selne (Vlllejuif to the left), among 
nursery gardens, has a seat which belonged to 
Coimt Dubois, and is near a spot on the river, 
called Porte h TAnglais, where the English, who 
held Paris in the time of Charles VI., had a camp, 
to cut off the Dauphin's communication by the 
river. Population, 7,161. An eight-arch viaduct 
brings you to 

CllOi8y*le-R0i (6i miles), in department Seinc- 
et-Oise, at the five-arch bridge on the Seine, bnilt 
1802. It is so called from a chftteau of Louis XY ., 
now occupied by a porcelain factory. Here died, 
in 1836, Rouget de Tlsle, the author of the famoiis 
Martiillaite. Population, 8,449. Here are M . de 
la Basti^s works for toughened glass, ^'rerre 



1 



Houte 35.] 



HAND-BOOK To PKAXCE. 



168 



tromp<*," and factories for morocco leather, chemi- 
cals, &c. Thiais is on the heights, to the soiitli- 
west ; and the Lyons railway on the opposite side 
of the river. A little further, at the bridge on the 
Seine, is Villeneuve-le-Roi (opposite Vllleiieuve 
St. GeorgeB)i'which belonged to Philippe Angustc, 
and has a good church and several country houses. 

Ablon (If mile), In a pretty spot, had a Pro- 
tostant church, which Sully used to attend. 
There are large caves here. 

Athls-Mons (2 miles), on the Orgc, near the 
Seine, a place of the 11th century, where Louis X. 
and his grandson Philippe le Bel had a seat. Popu- 
lation, 770. 

Juvlsy (2J miles), on the Paris Celntnre Line, 
where the branch railway turns off to Ccrbeil 
(as below), is on the Orge, and has the Chdttau of 
Marquis de Montessny, which belonged to the 
Brancas and Serennes families. The park was 
laid out by Lenotre. At the post-house of 
Fivmenteau, Napoleon L heard of the capitulation 
of Paris, in 1814. Population, 410. 

A Branch rail runs from the Orleans line to 

Male8lier1)e8 and Montargis, via 

Cll&tlllOn,on the Seine, here covered with villas, 
noted for a F6te champ6tre, in May, and is 
opposite Draveil and Champrosay. 

BlS| or Bis-OranglS m miles), at the suspen- 
sion bridge on the Seine, which connects 
it with Champrosay. The chftteau was in- 
habited by Henry IV. That of Fromont has a 
well-arranged horticultural garden. De Thou, 
the historian, once resided here. A little 
further up the river are Doujons, Soisy-sous- 
Etoiles, and Petit Bourg, so called after the 
chftteau of the Due d' Autin, where Louis XIY. 
used to visit Madame Montcspan. A House of 
Correction for young criminals occupies the 
aite. A hospital, founded by the Duchess of 
Bourbon, is also here. 

Bvry (2i miles) has an old church, and a popula- 
tion of 880. Suspecsion bridge to Etoiles. 

Corbell (2 miles), at the five-arch bridge on the 
Seine, in a pleasant spot, where the Essonne 
joins, andt urns forty flour mills, is a sous-prefec- 
ture (Scine-et-Oise) of 8,184 souls, having a 
large trade in grain, a hallo-au-bld (com mar- 
ket), St. Spire's Church, 13th-14th centuries, 



a library of 4,000 volumes, and an immense 
Granary of six storeys, largo enough to feed 
all Paris for a fortnight. The second wife of 
Philippe Auguste died here, 1236. Hotels—' 
De la Belle Image; du Monton Blanc. 
Steamer to Melun and Montercau. Coaches to. 
Molun, Fontainebleau (see Route 20), and 
Ponthierry. Essonnes (1 mile south-west), 
on that river, was the old Axona, or Exona, 
and a country -scat which Clotairc gave 
to St. Denis' abbey. Hero is a large paper 
factory. Population, 7,851. From Corbeil by 

][eimec7,Ballancoiirt,andLa Fert^ AlalB 

to Malesherbes (23^ miles, page 165), in a 
marshy part of the Essonne, under a Castle. 
It belonged to the bold defender of Louis XVI. 
at his trial; formerly to one of the mistresses 
of Henry IV., Henriette d'Entraig^^es. Popula- 
tion, 2,095. 

Here the Orleans loop line tumsoff, vid ManclM- 
COUrt, to Fitlllvlera (12 miles), a sous-pre- 
fecture, in department Loiret (population, 
5,480), over a ravine on the Oeuf . It was a 
strong place, which the Prince of Condd toolc 
twice in the League wars, and which Hcnrj' IV. 
dismantled. Here are many Got/iic hoiues, the 
tower of an abbey, the Church of St. Salomon^ 
14th century, the former spire of which was 
burnt, 1853, fragments of the walls, &c. It 
was given up to pillage by Piatoff in 1815, for 
shooting the officer sent to parley. Statue to 
Poisson^ the mathematician, bom here 1781. 
It is noted for gateaux cTamandes (almond 
cakes), and pdtes cTalouettes (lark pies). Hotel.— 
De la Poste. 

In the neighbourhood are the grotto of St. 
Gregory, and remains of a Castle, which 
Henry I. of England burnt. 

Rail continued vid Escreimes and NeUYlUd 
to Orleans, 27 miles. 

The next stations to Malesherbes areLaBrOBM 

(3f miles), &c., to Beaime-La-Rolande 

(12 miles); from which it is 15 miles to 
MontargiB on the line to Nevers (see Route 
20). From Beaune-la-Rolande a line of 84 
miles, opened 1884, runs through Bellegarde- 
Quiers, Les Boracf, and Henrichir*"*"* *** 
Bourges, page 214. 



f 



U'4 



lUUI>»ttAW*» U<LUBT]L4I«D 



[Sec. 4. 



iAVlgAy'-aWP*QVi!% (^ «^«X « vUla^ ay old 

.i> ^)20i with u c'u^^/« buUt by tb« cbMuberlaIn of 
i,'U 4ilc» YUIm H^« ui>w l)«Io»^lQir to tbe Princess 
vf Kt i^u)uhi. YUU«r«» Qfi«r this, was the property 
oi MntliUM^ j^ittvilUers, the poisoner. Viaduct to 
^|MjU(|,y''ftW~OrSO (li mile), a little way from 
YUle ^i»^iH'-on, on the Orge, where the Yvette 
joiiu. A v!i.itc>(ia here, and a church with a good 
' ' &t. J^xhn the Uaptist '' in it. St. Genevibye fprest 
\% % UlUe further. At Longpont is one of the best 
V^vA«i out of Paris for design, but unfortunately 
U\ A state of decay. It belonged to arich abbey here. 

•t. XlOliel-9W-Org0 m miles)- Here are the 
yurkvhops of the oompany. Correspondances to 
Moutlb^ry, linas^ and Karconssis, 

[MONTLHBRT, orMout-lc-h^ry (i mile west), on a 
hill-side, is noted for the ancient Tower which 
rises over it, and belonged to the strong feudal 
castle, built 999, by Thibauld-File-Etoupe (».e., 
tow thread, from his light hair). It had Juris- 
diction over 183 fiefs and 800 parishes, so that 
it was often troublesome, even to the sovereign 
at Paris. Five gates in the ruined walls lead 
up to the Tower, which looks like the Eddy- 
stone lighthouse, and is 101 feet high, and 9 to 
4 thick. It has been restored, and commands a 
fine range of view. The English had possession 
of it in 1360. Porte Baudry, in the town, built 
1015, was rebuilt 1089, and restored by Bona- 
parte in " I'An VIII. de la Republique." Popu- 
' lal ion, 2,223. There is a theatre, with some 
good shops. A battle was fought here, 1465, 
between Louis XI. and his brother.] 

Br^Ugny (li mile), in a pretty valley, where 
John of France made a Treaty with Edward III., 
then mafter of the best part of France. 

[Here the direct line to Tours, ta'dVendSme, parts 
00. It pasRsev AzpaJOIlt where the Remarde joins 
the Orge, called Chfttrestill 1770, when its selgpeur, 
l^^oois 4e Savarne, was made Marquis of Arp^jon. 
^ large church and timbered hall here. Then 
.9r9UiUet m miles) and St pb^ron (4 miles), 
which hat the fine natural Fpuntain of La Rach^e. 
At 9t- Train is » domed pavilion, built by Madame 
4u Barri. Lovgjitueau (8 mile* west), in the 
- of the Yv«tt«, if older than the 
-e square .ehurch of 8t. Mftr^in has 



a good Qothic porticQ. Then come» Dov^dail 
(4| miles), an old place in a forest, on the Orge, 
baring a ruined Keep (212 feet high), and e)|;ht 
other towers of its ancient Casfh (built, they say, 
by Gourtrand, King of Orleans, in the 6th cwtnry); 
also a double spire church, and a good timbered 
hall, bpilt 1223, by Louis VIIJ. Then Auneaa 
(page 56), VOYeS, Boimeval (page 58)33 miles, to 

CjllLtoaudllJl (15 miles), a sous-prefecture (de- 
partment Eure-et-Loir) of 7,147 ^ouls, who make 
covejrlets, ^cc; it stands in a picturesque part of 
the Loire, which here flows between cultivated 
hiUs, 426 feet high. Much of the town has been 
rebuilt since a fire in 1728. It is the Roman 
Castellodmiitmi and hi^s an Hdtel de Ville in an old 
convent in the fsqn^re, a good point of view. Its 
eeuih i« chiefly of the 15th centory, but the great 
i*ip i« as old as Tliib»ult la Tiicheur (••<., the 
Trieker), who foundf d it, 935; and is 96 feet high, 
ftnd 188 feet round. It was taken by the Germans, 
0<^ober, 1870. Three churches of 12th century. 

The people are >o quick that there is a proTerb, 
"II est de Ch4teaudutt; 11 entend }^, deml-mot." 
Jean Toulain, who invented enamel painting, was 
born here. Hotel. — De le Place. 

[From Auneau, 31 miles, to Dj-eux (page 69), 

through GaUardon (page 56), Uaintexion 

(page 56), and {^oye^t-le-Boi (page 57).J 
The line then continues by Cloyo^ and 
Fr^teval (where the EngUsh, in 1194, suddenly 
attacked Philippe Anguste, and capture4 the royal 
seal and public acts, which it was the custom, till 
then, to carry about with the sovereign) to 

Veadtaui (80 mile^, an old sons-pr^acture 
on the "UAtb, in the department Loir-et-Cher 
(population. 0,588), having the ruinad walls 
and six towers of the Ca$tU of the Dues da Ven- 
ddme; also the catbedr»l Ohprch of 8te. Croix, a 
collage, a barrack (in the old Qenedictiae coavent), 
and marble fountain. 

But it is most remarkable for tbe B^ CffMstides, 
which originated here, 1262, with a 9h«pherd ypnth, 
Stephen. About ten thousand children W9x& en- 
couraged by their infatuated parents a,»d the 
priesthood to follow him to Marseilles, to embark 
for the Holy Land. After suffering fpc^t iMU-dship 
on the wsy to tl^is pert, the^ury|voiy w^r^ trapped 
OA bo«r4 »hip9 lor Al«»Ai^U-lai 9m4 f9}d tk$^ as 



ftouU 35.] 



HAKiJ-fiOOK TO iTKAtifCB. 



it% 



slares. Here I'eiTon, a general in ^clndia's service, 
had a fine estate, and died. Hota. — Du Lion d'Or. 

Rail to Bloia (page 168) and Pont de Braye. 

« 

ChftteatL-RenaUlt (19 miles), with the donjon 
of a Caitte, built, 1109, by Regnault, its seigneur; 
and occupied by Henry IV. in the civil wars. 
Rail to Port Boulet (page 184) 65 miles, whence It 
is 27J miles to TOUTS (page 184).] 

ICaUl Line to Orleans Continued. 

l<arolles-en-HurepoiZ (Sf mUes), near the 
railway, has a merino-6heep farm at Chanteloup, 
which was a country-seat of Philippe-le-Bel. 
Bouchet powder-mill is near this. Coaches to 
Arpajon, Boissy, and St. Cbdron. 

Bonray (S| miles), on the Julne, a little past 
Memil Voisln, seat of the Duke of Poligtiac. 
Itear this are LA Fert€-Aleps, Yalre, and Male- 
sherbes, all on th« Bssonne, to which the Juine 
fiver rtirti. 

Lardy (l j mlle), on the Julnc, where they make 
lace and edgings. Here Marguerite de Vnlois 
lived. 

Chamarande (2 miles), near on6 of Mansard's 
Chfticaux. 

Etrechy (2 miles), on the Juine river, near 
which, in a wooded spot, are remains of the old 
feudal castle of Roussay. Gypsum quarries here. 
Population, 1,200. 

Etampes (fi miles), on the high road to Orleans 
and on two little branches of the Juine, is a sons- 
pr^fectnre of 8,678 sonls, called Stdmpae in old 
times; near which Thierry defeated his Uncle, 
Clotaire, 604. It is chiefly a long street, with good 
promenades round it. At the Palais de Jttstice^ on 
a rising point, are remains of a Castle^ built by le 
rol Robert for his wife, Constance. The wife of 
Philippe Anguste was confined here, and it was 
razed by Henry lY. in 1890, except the Guinette 
Tower, the sides of which are rounded on the plan. 
It belongs to the cur^. 

Jifotre Dame Church is a large Gothic pile, of the 
llth century, with a fine Norman tower, and 
f)attlemented walls. St. Martin and St. Basil are 
also worth notice— the latter ior its restored portal, 
and the former for its detached tower, which visibly 
Inclines. Notice, too, the old Hdtel de ViUe, lately 



restored and enlarged ; and the HofUe ot Anne de 
Pisseleu, one of the mistresses of Francis I. in 
the 15lh century, >fretco;'*< were invented here by 
a townsman, who was nick-named Jean Boulefeu. 
Petrified fossils are found in the gypsum quarries; 
and the Tour de Brunchaut is near — a fine scai, 
belonging to Viscount Viart. 

Geoffrey St. Hilalre, the naturalist, to whom 
there is a statue, was born here. Diane do 
Poictiers was Duchess of Etampes, and upon tlie 
death of Henry II., retired to Jeuvre, near the 
town. Trade in grain, flonr, soap, «kc. There are 
more than 40 mills in and around the town, and 
a public granafy. 

Hotel.— Du Grand Courrier. Bvffet. 

Coaches to tnville. 

We now begin to traverse the Wide plain of 
La BeatlcOf where cotn and hemp are raised. 

MOnnetriUd (Sf mllea). Frdm this there is a 
coach to M^MUe (4 miles south-east), on the Juini, 
the scat of Comte de St. Romain, in a fine park, hi 
which are a temple, Swiss cottage, statues, and 
memorials of Captain Cook and La Peyrouse.— 
Near Champmoteux (10 miles east of this) Is 
Vtgnaff, Where the Chancellor rHdpital died. 

Ant^erville (3 miles), the last place in depart- 
ment Sclue-et-Olse. Here Davoust and the army 
of the Loire agreed to acknowledge Louis XYIlt-, 
in 1815. 

BOiSSeauX. Line projected to Yoyeg. 

Touty (8i miles), in department £nre-et-Lolr, 
close to the border of Loiret, has sngat works, a 
13th century church, a dolmen, and an old Ch&teab. 
Coaches to Janville, Courtalain (seat of the Mont- 
morencles), Montdoubleau (and its feudal rqln), 
and St. Calais (Route 16). 

Cll&teau-aaillard (4| miles), a village. 

Artenay (3| miles). Population, 1,068. KeAr 
this are the ruins of a famous Chdleau, the lords of 
which were so powerful In the feudal age that It 
resisted all the forces of Louis le Gros in three 
several attacks. There is also a Church of the lOth 
century. At Patay (9 J miles west), the great Talbot 
was, for the first time, defeated (1428), and taken 
prisoner by the French, who were led on by /(Wn 
of Arc, 



^ 166 



BRADSHAW'S ILLCBTEATED 



[S4.C.4. 



CheyiSly iH jnllcs). Here t!ie sandy plain of , 
the Orl^annais begins, with the forest of Orleans, j 
which covers 100.000 acres. 

CerCOtteS (2J nines), in the forest, the popula- 
tion being wood-cutters. At Les AubraiS the line 
to Tours and Bordeaux turns oflF; and CJ miles 
■from Ccrcottcs is the Orleans terminus, near Porte 
Bannicr, in that faubourg. The expreu trains for 
Bordeaux do not now pass through Orleans. 
Passengers for Orleans therefore alight at Les 
Anbrais. 

ORLEANS. 

TH miles from Paris, 287 from Bordeaux. 
HOTEU.— D'Orl^ans ; de la Boule d'Or; St. 
Aie'uan. Buffet, 
Omnibuses to Ormcs, Olivet, St. Mcsmln, Ac. 
Steamers on the Loire. 

Po^i an4 Telegraph Office^ Kue de Bourgogne, 86. 

. 13" Objects of Notice.— Cathedral—Churches 

of St. Pierre and St. Aignan— Hotel de Ville— 

Statues of Joan of Arc— Museum— Agnes Sorel's 

Ilonse. 

[ During the late war, the Army of the Loire, 

collected here, was driven out, 11th October, 1870, 

by General Von der Tann ; who, in his turn, was 

obliged to evacuate the city, and sustained a partial 

defeat at Coulmiers, 9th November, from General 

d'Aurelles de Paladines. This was the only con- 

 liderable advantage gained by the French during 

the war, but d'Aurelles (who died in 1877) was 

unable to follow It up, and advance towards Paris, 

, as had been planned. Orleans was finally taken 

by the Germans, 6th December, under Prince 

. Frederick Charles, with the loss of 10,000 men and 

77 g^ns, on the French side. 

Population, 63,705. Chief town of department 

Loiret (once part of OrUanaU), seat of a bishop, 

Ac, on the north bank of the Loire, in a wide 

plain, near the forest of Orleans. It was the 

. Genabum of the C imutes, when Ccesar bunit it, 

and being rebuilt by Aurellas, a.d. 272, took his 

name, Aurelianuin, of which the modem name is a 

corruption. It Is noted, not only as the head of a 

Duchy, first created by Philippe de Valois for his 

second son (who died 1375), and revived by Louis 

' XIII. for his brother Gaston, whose descendant 

|g*K« r</vm»a Aa Paris, gTaudsou of Louis Philippe, 



but also for the various airges it has withstood. 
In 451 it was saved from Attila by Aetius, the 
Roman commander; about 570, Childeric rescued 
it from Odoftcer ; and again it was saved, in 1420, 
when the English, who held nearly three-fourths 
of France, and had almost taken the city, were 
driven back by the famous Jeanne <f .4rc, the 
Pncelle, or " Maid of Orleans," a simple shep- 
herdess, of Domromy. Believing herself inspired 
to save her country, she became the means of 
turning the tide of conquest against the EngllRh, 
who thenceforth lost nil ground in France, but 
revenged themselves on Joan, by burning her for 
a witch at Rouen, when given up by the French, 
two years after. It was held by the Huguenots in 
the civil wars of the 1 6th century, when it escaped 
another siege from the Duke of Guise. 

The river here is free from islands, and is lined 
with (Jnays (one built 1810), at each end of the 
modem stone Bridge, which was buUt 1751, on nine 
arches, and Is 1,068 feet long (the centre arch 106 
feet wide), but has not much water under it in the 
summer. From this Rue Royale, the best street, 
leads up to the Place dn Martroy, and Rue Ban- 
nler, dividing the city hito two parts, having the 
Cathedral, Hdtel de VlUe, and Prefecture on the 
east, and Joan of Arc's house and the hospital on 
the west. In Place Martroy, a tasteless bronze 
(now removed to the south side of the river, oppo- 
site the bridge) was in W55 replaced by Foyatler's 
Statue of the PueeUe on Horseback, representing her 
in armour, with her banner and sword, returning 
thanks to God after her triumph here. It is about 
80 feet high, including the pedestal, which has 
fourteen bas-reliefs of the chief events of her life. 
Much of the old town consists of dirty irregular 
streets and places, with many curiously carved 
timber Houses. The faubourgs are better built; 
the largest being that on the Paris road ; another, 
called St. Marceau, is across the bridge. Pleasant 
country houses lie beyond. One of the best prome- 
nades is on the Boulevard or site of the old walls, 
of which a piece 2 5 feet high is left, supposed to 
be Roman ; two old Towers also remain at one of 
the gates, near the Croix de la Pucelle, where the 
English were first driven back. A new street. 
Rue Jeanne d'Arc, leads to 

Ste. Croix Cathedral, one of the best looking in 
France, rising above everything else in the towp. 



iioute 35.] 



ItAN'D-liOOK TO FRAXCfi. 



ll 



It wns rebuilt about 1,000, by BUhop Anioul, but 
Imvlng been ruined by the Huguenots, in 166^, it 
has been again gradually rebuilt (since Heniy IV. 
laid the first stone, 1601), on a regular cross- shaped 
plan, in the Gothic style (spoilt by a mixture of 
Greek), with an east apse. It was finally com- 
pleted in 1829. Over the three portals and rose 
windows of the front are two cruciform Totcers, in 
four decreasing storeys, elegantly carved, and 268 
feet high. The central clock-tower spire is about 
840 feet; the nave is very lofty, and the high 
altar and Virgin chapel are richly decorated. 
Twelve fine stained glass windows, illustrating 
events in the career of Joan of Arc are being put in. 

St.PUrre-le-PueHier, the oldest of all the churches, 
in the worst part of the town, is part Romanesque, 
small, and III lighted, with a curious inscription 
to a young girl (puelle), called Rose of Paris. 
Its ancient crypt was brought to light in 1852. 

St. Aignan's (now a store) is a good Gothic struc- 
ture, much decayed, with a Romanesque crypt. 
The chapel of St. Jacques, now a salt store, has a 
good front, and was built about 1155, by Louis le 
Jeone, it is said. Another, St. Euverte*s, also a 
warehouse (as well as a fourth, St. PauVs), has a 
tower, built 1566. The Grand Semlnaiy Chapel 
contains some wood carvings^ designed by Lebrun. 
St. Pateme, modern, is remarkable for its size. 

Among other buildings worth notice Is the half 
Gothic brick Mairie^ finished 1498 ; it has a deco> 
rated facade, restored 1850-54; and in the coui*t 
behind it there stands an ancient square tower or 
belfry. At the entrance is a copy of the Princess 
Marie's well-known beautiful Statue of tht Maid, 
in armour, embracing her sword. In one room 
Mary Stuart received the parting breath of her 
first husband, Francis II. At the ancient H6tel de 
VUle begun by Jacques Groslot, for Charles VIII., 
is placed the public Musee, founded 1825, contain- 
ing between 500 and 600 paintings and designs of 
the French school, objects of natui'al histoiy, and 
a gallery of mediaeval antiquities, with a portrait 
and statuette of the Maid. The Palace de Justice 
was built 1821, with a portico of four pillars and 
sphinxes. There are also a bourse, large theatre, 
hallc-anx-grains(com market), built 1826 ; a public 
abattoir (built 1825); a Biblioth^que of 60,000 
volumes (besides MSS. and coins); a college, Pro- 
testant orphan bouse, and Jnrdin Rotnniqnc. 



1 Several of the old Qothic Houm deserve exnmii 
tion, such as the Maison d'Agnes Sorel, No. 
Rue du Tabourg, with a highly larved froi 
No. 45, in the same street, called Joan of Arc 
the Maison de Francis I., No. 28, Rue Recouvran 
so called, because of his arms on it ; the Rena 
sance House of Diane de Polctiers, in Rue Neui 
and the Hotel de Cr^nanx, of the time of Loi 
XIII. Pothicr,the lawyer, and Dolet, the learn 
printer, burnt as an atheist, 1546, were natives. 
Trade in refined sugar, wine, brandy, co: 
and pottery. 

The Orleans and ChdUrns Rai(, 177 miles long, 
part of the Outer Circle State line round Paris, pai 
ing Doxmery (on the line to Gien), Montarg 
and Courtmay (Route 20, page 81), Sens (page 8 
Troyes (page 253), Charmont (page 287), Arc 
sur-Aube (page 264), Mailly, Ecury, to Chfiloi 
thence it is continued to the north. The Orlea 
and Rotten Rail (another part of the Circle) ru 
by VOV 8B (on the Paris and Tours line), to Chart i 
(page 57), Dreux (page 69), Buell and Pacy-sii 
Eure (page 44), AC(lUiXiy (branch to BrOBVll 
and Evrcux, page 45), Louviers and Elbceuf (pa 
34), on the Eure line. 

DROXJTE QfS— Continued, 

Orleans, down the Loire, to Blols, Toui 
Poitiers, Angoul6me, Bordeaux. 

Distance from Orleans to Toui's, 71 i miles. 
Leaving Orleans we return to 
Les AUbralS, for the line to Tours, which kec 
the north side of the Loire. 

La Chapelle St. Mesmln (43 miles), so call 

from %n ^5&ey, of which there are slight remains 
a country house. Church of 11th century, ovei 
crypt of the 8th century. 

St. Ay (4 miles), in a pretty spot among vin 
yards. [At 3 miles south is 

CLtKT-sUB-LoiRE, ou a hill, in the dreary pla 
of La Sologne, where stands the fine Church 
Notre Dame (rebuilt after the English lead( 
Salisburj', had burnt the first one, 1428), 1 
the cruel and superstitious devotee, Louis X 
and containing the Virgin's image, a model 
which he carried on his hat; also his tomb ai 
fiffigy, by Bourdin (not older than 1622), besid 
an excellent doorway and choir, with mosi 



f 



lOd 



URADSHAW'S ILLUSTHATED 



work, CAVved stlllls, kt. Dunois, the Bastard 

of Orleans, lies in the Longueville chapel; 

Imf, on examination, in 1854, bis coffin was 

foatid to hare been opened. The House of 

Lotris XI. is close to the church. At jButte de 

Mdzikres is a tumulus 43 feet high.] 

HdUHg (3f miles), an ancient town at the sospen- 

iion bridge on the river, has an old Chateau, built 

by Louis le Gros, and taken by the English. It 

contains also an old collegiate battlemented Church, 

and was a seat of the Orleans bisbdps. Pop. 3,373, 

who make hats, &c. Meung, the continuer of the 

Roman de la Rose^ was a native. A viaduct on 26 

fuxhes, 951 feet long) crosses the Mauves, near 

BoftlVSnoy (ii miles), which stands above the 
embankment of the Loire (here crossed by a bridge 
Of 38 arches), and has, besides part of its old for- 
tified walls, the great keep of a very ancient Castle. 
132 feet high, and about 70 square. It has suffered 
in almost every contest from the invasion of the 
Hnnv (451) doimwards. Soman coins have been 
found. The Hdtel de Ville is in the Renaissance 
Style. Population, 44813. HoteL^H^ TEcu. 

Near the Ch&teau d'Avary stands an immense 
dolmen. — At Lailly (3 miles) Condillac is buried. 

Pass the Tavers viaduct, on 12 arches, to 

Met (^\ miies), among the vineyards and country 
houses, in department Loir-et-Cher. Pop. 4,029. 

MenarS (7 miles), ol- Menars>le-Chateau, has 
tine Chdteau of the 17th century (with beautiful 
tettaces on the tiver), which, having belonged to 
Madame de Pompadour and M. de Broglic, is now 
the property of Prince de Chimay, who, in 1832, 
established the Prytaneum here (now called Ecole 
Professionnelie), where theoretical and practical 
education are carried on together. 

[At 4| miles to the south-east is the Ohlkteau de 
Chambord, on the Casson, in the middle of a 
great Forest, where the deer and wild boar are 
found. Francis I. began to build it (on a site 
of a hunting-seat of the comits of Blois), after 
the designs of Primaticcio ; and, as completed 
by his successors, it makes a quadrangle, in 
the Renaissance style, trith great high peaked 
towers at the corners (GO feet diameter), a 
central tower and dome. 106 feet high, undet 
which is the grand double staircase, with a 
-'^1, erected in 1864, and picture galleries. 



[Sec. 4. 

The front contains a great many windows, 
divided by pilasters and small columns, above 
which rises a picturesque heap of turrets and 
chimneys. Some parts are richly carved, and 
the F. and salamander (for Francis I.*), the 
H. and D. (for Henry II. and Diana of Poitiers) 
are noticed. 

At one time Cbambord belonged to Stanislaus of 
Poland ; then to Marshal Saxe, the victor at 
Fontenoy, who amused himself by playing at 
soldiers and training horses, and died here. 
Afterwards it came to the Polignacs, and the 
Prince of Wagram (Marshal Bcrthier), of 
whose widow it was bought, 1820, for the 
Duke of Bordeaux (the Count de Chambord, 
or Henry V. as he was called), by his friends. 
At present its 440 rooms are deserted, but it is 
maintained in repair, though unfurnished, 
except a few busts and portraits. The Bour- 
geois Gentilhomnie was fitst acted here, 1670, 
before Louis XIV.] 

At Si miles further, is 

BLOIft. 

A buffet, \U\ miles from Paris. Ask for the 
Crime de St. Qervais. 

HoTELs.--Grand Hotel de Blois, close to the 
castle (see Advt.) J d'Angleterre; de la Tfite Noire. 

^" Objxots of Notice.— Castle-^ftUe-des- 
Etats— Cathedral— Allde Promenade. 

Population, 28,457. A fine old town, the chief 
place of department Loir-et-Gher, in the old pro- 
vince of Orleanais, on the river Loire, beautifully 
seated on a bill slope, and joined to Yieune by a 
stone bridge of 11 arches, which bends much in the 
middle, where stands a Ppramid, 60 feet high. A 
quay of great length fronts the river. It was the 
head of a cotmty which came to our King Stephen, 
through his mother Adela, the Conqueror's daugh- 
ter, and now belonging (the title, at least) to the 
Orleans family. It was occupied by the Germans, 
December, 1870, in their progress westward. 

The streets are narrow, steep, and winding. At the 
top of the hill, above the old town, stands the royal 
CastUs or Ch&teau (partly restored,- 1870), where 
tienry III. compassed the murder of the Duke of 

• In a fit of jealousy he wrote on one of the window* (now 

SoTiTent femme vaiie 
Bien ton qui g'y fle. 



Route 35.] 

Guise (Le Balafr^) and his brother the Cardinal, in 
1588. The duke was killed in the queen's chamber, 
close to the cabinet of Henry, and his body burnt, 
two days after, and thrown into the river. Thenorth 
front was built by Francis I. ; east front, in 1498, 
by Louis XII., who was born here, and from hence 
issued the Ordonnance de Blois, which guaranteed 
the liberties of the Galilean church ; west front, 
by Gaston, Duke of Orleans, after Mansard's 
designs. Catherine do Medicis' Obseitatoiff is on 
the south side, with the words '■'■ uranice sadntm" on 
it, indicative of her astrological propensities. An 
old Gothic T'other remains, in which are the oubliettes, 
or dungeons. Another tower is called Chftteau 
Regnault, because that place (18 miles off) Is .^een 
from it. The Salle des Etats, where the county 
deputies used to meet, is of the 13th century. tKIs, 
and Fl-ancis I.'s Renaissance front, are now re- 
stored. The latter contains the Museum. 

Near the Castle stands the Cathedral of St. Louis, 
which was once part of the Jesuits' college, and re- 
built 1678, in a pseudo Gothic style. The bishopric 
was founded only in 1697, to control the Protestdnts 
who survived the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, 
"they were obliged to conform and send their 
children to the Convent des Nouvclles Catholiques, 
or to go Into exile. The Bishop's Palace was origln- 
tilly built by Gabriel, for Colbert, the minister, 
who married a Blois lady j its fine gardens com- 
mand a view of great extent along the river. 
The Prefecture is in Grande Place; here Maria 
Louisa (with her son) and Joseph Bonaparte met, in 
order to form a regency, in 1814. Here are also 
the Palais de Justice and the Halle au Bid. Hotel 
de Ville has a library of 17,000 volumes. 

Other buildings are — the college, or seminary, at 
Bourg Moyen Abbey, where the two Thierrys 
were educated; Hospital at St. Laumicr's old 
Abbey, the fine restored Church of which is a 
curious building of the 11th and 12th centuries; 
theatre and abattoir; lunatic asylum (rhosplce 
des alidnds). There are also botanic gardens, with 
ninny public fountains, supplied by a reservoir 
outside the walls, to which a so-called "Roman" 
aqueduct (styled Portt de Cdsar), half a mile long, 
brings the water. The best of the fountains, 
named after Louis Xll., Is near the castle. There 
Is a Statue of Denis t*apin, a native, claimed as an 
inventor of the stetim engine. Above the town 



HAI?D-BOOK TO FRAKCE. 



1 



appears the Beauvoir Toteef, the old seat of 
seigneurs of that ilk. 

Old houses worth notice are Hdtel d'Alluye, 
Rue St. Honord, in which Le Balafrd res id 
Hotel Denls-du-Pont, in Rue Porte Chartrai 
Petit Louvre, or Hotel de Cheverney, In Ruo 
Martin; and Hdtel d'AmboIse, In Place du Chftt( 
once the seat of Cardinal d'AmboIse. At Chflt 
de St. Lazare, which was a priory, Victor 11 
resided with his father, GenerAl Hugo. 

The Alle'es Promenade is of great length, lc;id 
to the large Forest of Blois. Each gate has 
image of the Virgin, in remembrance of a dclli 
ance from the pestilence, in 1631. Go to the briil 
from which you have a noble view up and do 
the Loire ; and of its vast Uvees, or emliankmoi 
Which begin here. In the neighbourhood are 
mineral waters of St. Dcnis-les-Blols, which 
used in summei*, and the chateaux of Boaurcg 
and Cheverney— the latter erected 1624, in a i 
park, is adorned with sculptures, has a i)ict 
gallery, and collection of animals and fossils. 

Rail to Vendome and Font-de-Braye, for 
Mans (page 196); to Romorantin (25 miles. 
Route 48), and on to Tours. Conveyances: 
Bracieux-Chambord (U miles), Ch&teau Rcgna 
(20) miles), St. Calais, Oucques (17 miles), { 
Valenpay. 

From Blois, alodg the railway td Tours, close 
the north bank of the river, which increases 
beauty from here, yoa pass 

OllOUZy (5 miles), on the Cisse; then 

Onzain (4 miles) ; opposite which is 

Chaumoht-sur-Loike, in a delightful spot at 
foot of a wooded height, crowned by a fine 
Chateau^ I6th and 16th centuries. It was ca 
fully restored by Vicomte Walsh, and deser 
a visit. Closed in September. Madame de St 
retired to it when exiled from Paris, by Napole 

Limeray (6f miles). 

Axnbolse (3| miles), or Ambo!se-sur-Lolre, 
department Indre-ct-LoIrc, away from the line, 
the south bank. Is another fine spot, with achfttc 
aboveit. Populatloti, 4,480. Th6 Ca«««, an Imposi 
pile, with its two large towers, stands on the site 
a f ort,built (so they say) by Julius Cffisar, who gl 
name to some excavations in the rocks below, cal 



r 



170 



BRADSHAW'S ILLCSt RATED 



[Sec. 4, 



** Oreniert de C^«flr " (Cesar's granaries). Charles 
VII. began to fortify the castle when forfeiied to 
the crown by the Counts of Berri; and his son 
Cliarles YIII. was bom here, li70. Here the Con- , 
turatum d'Ambaise'wu planned by the Prince de 
Cond^ and the Protestant party against the Golses, 
who discovered it in time, and took a bloody re- 
Tenge. The Edict of Amboise, in favoar of tolera- 
tion, was issued three years later. Napoleon I. grave 
it to bis colleague, Roger Dacos, who neglected it; 
bat it was restored (1875 to 1881) by the Comte de 
Paris. Abd-el-Kader was confined here 1848-52, 
until liberated by Napoleon IIL 

The Amasse runs into the Loire, which is crossed 
by two bridges, resting on an island in the middle. 
Madame de la Valli^re was bom at Amboise ; and 
Leonardo da Vhicl lived at CUnu, near this, before 
his death at Fontainebleau. His tomb at Amboise 
was opened 1874. 

Hotels.— Du Lion d'Or; de la Croix blanche. 

The ChAteauz of Chantelonp (^ mUe) and Che- 
nonceaux (24 miles) are near. 

Nolsay iH miles). 

Vernoa m miles), with palace of Pepin le Bref . 

VoUYray (2f miles), near the chftteaux of Mont- 
contour and Roche Corbon. Here the line bends to 
the river, and crosses it by a handsome Viaduet^ 85 
feet high, 1,167 feet long, on 12 arches of 81 feet 
•pan to 

Mont-LoniS (f mile), on the south side of the 
river; followed by St. Pierre-des-CorpB (3i 
miles. Buffet); this is the station for Tours, to 
which express trains do not run. 

TOUBS. 

146 miles from Paris, 121} from Nantes, 61 from 
Le Mans, 121| from Bordeaux. Embarcadbre in 
the Mail; bifurcation at St. Pierre-le-Corps. Six 
or seven railways meet here. Omnibuses to the 
hotels. Good Bufet. 

Hotels. — Grand Hotel de rUnivers, close to 
Station ; one of the best first-class hotels in France; 

Grand Hotel de Bordeaux, first-class hotel on 
the Boulevard, opposite the Station. 

Hotel de la Boule d'Or, Rne Royale. Fine 
situation. 

Grand Hotel du Faisan. 



English Pension^ Rue da General Jameron, Miss 
Buehner ; highly lecommended. 

French Protestant church, service in the after- 
noon. 

Post and TelegrapJi Office^ Rne dcs Fossds St. 
George. 

tST Objsgts of Notick.— The Bridge — Cathe- 
dral— CUUeau— Palais de Justice -Hdtel Gouin — 
Statue of Descartes— Plessis les Tours. 

Population, 60,335. An ancient town, the capital 
of department Indre-et-Loire, seat of a military 
division, of an archbishop, college, &c., in a flat 
but pleasant part of the Loire, on a tongue of land 
between it and the Cher. Fewer English families 
now reside here on account of the increased cost 
of living. 

It was the RtMuan (kesarodununi^ and the head of 
the Tnrones ; afterwards of Nenstria, &c. ; and of 
the county of Touraini^ which was held by the 
Plantagenets till Philippe Auguste took it from 
King John, 1202. The States-General were sum- 
moned here in the 15th century, when the Leaguers 
held possession of Paris ; they met in the hall of St. 
Julien*s abbey. It had a mint for coining *' livres 
Tovmoises^'" or franc pieces, and still has one, rank- 
ing fifth (or letter £). Louis XI. established the 
silk manufacture here, and built his famous 
chAteau, Plessis-les- Tours (in which he died, 1483), 
close by (1 mile) ; parts of it are left, including his 
and Cardinal Balue's chambers and a brick donjon. 

It became the seat of the French Grovemment in 
September, 1870, when M. Cr^mieux and the 
foreigrn ambassadors moved from Paris upon its 
investment by the Grermans. Gambetta arrived 
here in October, after escaping from the capital 
in a balloon, and proceeded to raise the provinces. 
It surrendered to the German armies, December 21, 
wlien the Government retreated to Bordeaux. 

Twelve Gates surround the town, the old walls 
of which are replaced by a planted boulevard — 
called "Boulevard Bdranger" and the "Mail;" 
beyond are the four faubourgs of la Priche, St. 
Eloi, Ac. A fifth, St. Symphorien, across tbe river, 
is joined to the main part by an excellent level 
stone Bridge of 15 arches, each 80 feet span, built 
1762-77 ; it is 1,476 feet long (117 less than the one 
at Bordeaux), 48 wide, and 89 above the water. 
A little above it are remains of the old bridge, 
built by the Counts of Touraine; and at equal 



Route 35.] 



HAKD-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



171 



distances above aixl below are two new Suspension 
Bridges^ one resting: on lie Entrepont, the other on 
He St. Simon. Two other bridges, of 17 and 8 
arches, cross the Cher, in the neighbourhood. 

From the end of the great bridge, where the 
H6tcl dc Ville stands, the principal street, Rue 
Royale, runs through for half a mile to the Poitiers 
Road; straight and wide, w'.th broad pavements 
and good sabstantial houses, of white stone, with 
slated roofs. Most of the hotels and caf^s are here. 
At the bridge end is Nieuwerkerke's statue of 
Descartes, bearing for Its motto, " Cogito, ergo sum," 
("I think, therefore, I exist"). The old streets 
out of Rue Royale are narrow and dirty, but 
contain some ancient buildings. One of the Foun- 
tains (de Deaune), in the market-place, is a Gothic 
obelisk, with many carvings on it. Promenades 
are laid out on the quays ; and in the neighbour- 
hood are many fruit gardens and vineyards. 

St. Gatien's Gothic Ccahedral, begun in the 12th 
century, was finished 1550; and therefore com- 
prises specimens of the Romanesque and Gothic 
styles in different stages, besides that of the later 
Renaissance in the tower. It has a wide, richly- 
carved west front, with a triple porch, a rose 
window, and two towers, 220 feet high, oi-namented 
with statues and bas-reliefs (some grotesque), 
and built, they say, by Henry V. of England. It 
is worth while to mount the Escalier royal for the 
view from the north tower. In the interior, which 
is 262 feet long and 88 high, are some beautiful 
stained windows, a fine choir, and the tomb of 
Charles VIII.'s two children. Some good carvings 
are seen in the cloisters. 

At St. Symphorien is the grive of Field-Marshal 
Sir J. Fitzgerald, who died here 1877, aged 95. 

The famous Abbey church, founded, 347, by St. 
Martin de Tours, being burnt, 561, was restored by 
St. Gregory de Tours, a native, and survived till the 
Revolution, when it was pulled down, except two 
towers, one called Tour de Charlemagne, the other 
used as a belfry. Alcuin was one of its abbots. St. 
J alien's Abbey Church, of the 11th and 13th cen- 
turies, after being used as an auberge, is now 
restored for public worship. St. Clement's is now 
a com market. At the barrack in Qua! Roynl, is 
the tower of the old Chateau, built by Henry II. of 
. England, from which the Duke of Guise, then a 
prisoner, escaped, 1691. 



The archbishop's palace., the Prefecture, the 
Palais de Justice, with its eight-column portico, are 
large and handsome structures. In the Hdtel 
Papian is the BibliotJuque of 45,000 vols., besides 
valuable MSS. and illuminations; open 12 to 4, 
Tuesday to Friday. At the Museum, in the Hotel 
de Ville, is a collection of 2 JO pictures, specimens 
of iiatural history, antiquities, &c. There are also 
a college, a large general hospital, botanic garden, 
public baths, and a theatre, near the post-office. 
M. Gouin, formerly minister of commerce, lived in 
Louis XI.*8 old Gothic chancellerie, Hdtel Oouin, in 
Rue de Commerce, which he restored. Another 
house, in Rue des Trois Pucelles, is called Maison 
de Tristan rHcnnite; but it is not so old as 
Louis XL's provost-marshal. They show in the 
town a block of stone (a remnant of some Roman 
building), said to be the tomb of Tumus, its 
reputed founder. A Roman wall and an amphi- 
theatre have been traced by M. Courtig^is. At St. 
Radegonde (2 miles) are some remains of Mar- 
moutier Abbey, founded in the 4th century, and the 
Byzantine church and Merovingian gprotto of St. 
Radegonde. 

Tours is the native place of Destouches, the comic 
writer; Duchesne, the geographer; Heurteloup, 
the surgeon ; Alfred de Yigny ; Balzac, the 
novelist; and Bdranger. Statue of Rabelais, 
bom at Chinon, in the department. 

The famous Battle of Tours was fought, 732, 
some think at Mire, near Artannes (sec page 173); 
here Charles Martel defeated Abderrahman and his 
Saracen hosts, who, having conquered Spain, had 
thus far overrun France. But for this check, " the 
Koran (says Gibbon) might have been taught in 
the schools of Oxford to a circumcised people." 

Manufactures of silk stuffs, or gros de Tours, 
which flourished till the Revocation of the Edict of 
Nantes (when the population fell from 80,000 to 
33,000), ribbons, lace, carpets, muslins, Ac. Mame's 
printing office (the largest in the provinces) is here; 
with the railway works of the French State Lines. 

From Toui*s, the State Rail to Sables d'OlOXine, 
151 miles long, proceeds via Jou^-les-Toiirs, 

Azay-le Bideau, and Chtnon (below); Lou- 
dun (below), Thenars (below), and B7608Ulie, 
&c. (see page 199). 
[Azay-le-Rldeau, on an island in the Indre, 
with a tnrreted Chdleau^ in the Renaissance 



r 



172 



B»ADSHA.W*8 tLLtStftAtBD 



[Sec. i. 



style, with a richly carved portico and stair- 
case. The devices of Diane de Poitiers and 
Francis I. (the salamander) are seen, and the 
motto " Ung seuf desir'* in one part. It con- 
tains a gallery of portraits. Population 2,175. 

Ghlaon, in department Indre-et-Loire, isa sous- 
prefecture (6,119 population), in a pretty spot, 
overlooked by the half restored Castle, built 968, 
by Thlbault-le-Tricheur, in which Henrp II. 
of England died^ 1189, and which Charles VU. 
held (the only fortified place remaining to 
him) when Joan of Arc came to declaxe her 
mission. He built the Tour d'Argentad. 
Richelieu had possession of it, 1631. There 
are three old Churches. RaMaii was bom at 
a farm-house, near at hand, 1483. The steamer 
from Ch&tellerauU passes by. Hotel.— Hfi 
France. At Ligi'^-Rivifere (3 miles) there is a 
short line to RlOhelleu, see page 17B. 

Loudlin is a small sons-prefecture in depart- 
ment Vienne (pop., 4,652), and an old town on 
ft hill among woods. It is noted for its delicate 
Wines. The Protestants held Loudun till 
Richelieu razed the Castle, and till the Revo- 
cation of the Edict of Nantes which followed. 
There are four or five old churches, part of a 
castle, and of a convent at which Urban Oran- 
dier, a monk, was burnt on pretence of sorcery, 

1634. Hotels.— De France; de la Poste. 

ThOliaXSt on the Thouet, above which rise 
the walls, begun by Pepin, and iinlshed by the 
English, from whom Duguesclin took it, 1312. 
The Vend^ans captured it, 1793. On a granite 
rock, 108 feet high, stands the C?tdteau, built 

1635, by Marie de la Trdmouillc, 393 feet long; 
which is now a Maison de detention. 

Close to it is St. M^dard's ancient Church, made 
up, in fact, of three or four chapels, one over 
the other. St. Laou has a fine square tower. 
One turret on the walls, called Tour du Prince 
de Galles (Wales), is a prison. Population, 
3,169. There are also a college and two hos- 
pices. Motel.— Dvi Cheval Blanc] 

Btate Rail (72 miles) open to Joud-led-TOYirs, 

Montbazon (below), Relgnac, Loches rbeiow), 
Ch&tlllon-trar-liidre, Palltuiil-8t.-Gen(m, to 

'•*ifc+^fttUrotUt (page 206). 



[ttontbazOXi, tip the Itidre, his an 11th eentur^ 
Castle, of Foulques d^ N6ra, Coutit of Anjoti. 
Near It Is Cmzih'es Chdleau,'whcte Lotols Xllt. 
was reconciled to his mother, Catherine dc 
Medicis. 

At Reignac is a church, part of which goes 
back to the Carlovingian dynasty. 

LOCheiS (25 miles from Tours), an old town and 
sous-prdfecture (5,182 population) in depart- 
ment Indre-et-Loire, agreeably placed on the 
left bank of the Indre, the arms of which 
are crossed by a line of bridges to Beauliea. 
Above it, on a rock^ stand the picturesque 
remains of the Castle, older than the uint^i 
century, and now used as a }ail. Kihg John 
gave it up to France, but Cceur-do-Lion re- 
took it, 1194, though it was taken back, 
1205. Louis XI. made it a state prison, and 
confined Cardinal Balue in the circular hall, 
in an iron cage, which the Cardinal had in- 
vented; Philip dea Comlnes, the historian, 
was also sometime a prisoner in the great 
itaachicolated round tower. Its neighbour, the 
square Donion tower, is 130 feet high. In four 
storeys. That part called Charles YII.'s Chtt- 
teftu (now the Mairie) was the seat of his mis- 
tress, the beautiful and amiable Agiies Sorel ; 
its terrace commands a fine prospect ; and in 
one of the pointed towers is the mansoleum of 
Agnes, brought here, 180Q, from the aneiodt 
Church of Notre Dame, or St. Ours. The latter, 
founded as far back as 450, and rebuilt in the 
llth century, is worth notice for its four 
towers, 164 feet high, and an eight-sided 
vaulted roof, 85 feet from the ground. Monej 
was struck here, as well as at Tourfi and 
Chinon. Hotels — De France ; de la Promenade. 

In the neighbourhood are Loches Forest ; Liget 
Chartreuse, which Henry II. founded to 
Becket's memory; and Chenonceaux Chfttcan, 
see next page.] 

[By Railway to Angers and Nantes, as in Route 
36; and to Le Mans, as in Route 89. 

Also Rail to Vierzon, up the Cher, 70 miles. 
It passes Veretz (7J miles), where is Vlollet 
le Due's statue of Pa/ul Courier, who lived 
here down to the time of his Assassltiation by 
an unknown hand; then tlliellOlieeil;tl± (Hi 



Route 35.] 



UAKl>-BOOK TO I'KANCB. 



miles), near a Cb4teau in good oondi- 
tiun, on a bridge over the Cher, whicli 
belongs to Mons. Wilson, a deputy, and was 
the seat of Madame Dupin, who died here, 
1799 ; tfontridiaxd (4i miles), once fortified; 

8t. Aignan-Noyercii miicsj, an oiatown 

on the Cher (pop. 3,S01), having cloth works 
and an ancient tower, called Tour d'Agar^ 
built 1019, by the counts of Blois; SeUefl- 

sur-Cber i^l miles); VUlefriLac]ie-(iur- 

Cber(10i miles), see page US; and Vi9r80n(16 
miles), as in Route 43.] Hence to Bourges, Ac. 

!EiOt7TB QB^Continued. 
Tours to Poitiers and Borde^Lux. 

From Tours over the great Via4uct across the 
Indre, 31,120 feet long, 70 high, on 57 arches. 

MontS (8f miles), on the Indie. Coaches to Ar- 
tannes (near Mire^ mentioned on page 171.) 

VUleperdue i.H miles), a llttlc beyond is the 
old village of Ste. Catherine-de-Fierbras (so called 
from Guillai^me Fier-i-bras, or strong arm, Count 
of Poitou), near the chftteau of Comonacre, or 
Comacre, whither Joan of Arc went, 1429, to fetch 
the sword of Charles Martel, with which he slew 
the infidels. The church is in the Renaissance 
style of Francis I. 

Ste. KUlure (7f miles) on a branch of the Yienne 
called the Manse, which is traversed by a short 
viaduct, 98 feet high, on 1$ arches. There is a 
dolmen of six stones here. The old Chdteau de Brau 
is in sight. In the crypt of the church are the 
tombs of the princes of Rohan. 

At L' He- Bouchard (8 miles), on tlie line between 
Port Boulet and Port-de-Plles, is the Romanesque 
Chapel of St. Leonard. Rail to Llgr^-Rlvlire for 

[RiCH^UKU (10 miles south-west), on the Amable. 
It belonged to the father of Armand du Plessls, 
the famous Cardinal Richelieu^ whose seat here, 
which he enlarged and beautified, was pulled 
down at the Revolution. It was made the head 
of a dukedom, 1631, and the town was rebuilt 
by him a little while after.] 

Port-de~ Piles (6f miles), on the Creuse. 

From Port-de Piles a line (1886) runs to 
1a Haye-Descarte«, Preailly, and Le Blanc. 

[At La Haye-]>eSG|Urte», higher up the river, 
00 called («i9C9 1803) from the philosopher, 



De9cartfs^ who was born here, U96. They 
show the house, with his bast. To the east 
of it is seen the old seat of Louis XI.*8 gossip, 
Tristan TUermite. At FreulUy, remains of 
the Ciutle of the Premier Barons of Touraine, 
and a good abbey Churchy founded 1001. 

Toumon St Ittqjrtin. Le Blanc (popula- 
tion, 6,468), in dept. Indre, in a well wooded 
country on the Creuse, with some remains of 
old fortifications, and St. Gduitoor's Church, 
12th to 15th centuries. Hotel.— De France.] 
Another line runs from Port-de-Piles through 
L*Ile Bouchard and Legr^-Rivibre (above) to 
Chinon. 

Les Ormes (3 miles), in department Viennef has 
a fine Chdteau of the d*Argenions, surmounted by 
a column 80 feet high, with a staircase in it. 
Dang^ (2 miles), on the Yienne. 
Ingrandes (5 miles), up the same river. 
C)l4tellerault (6 mllcs), a sous-prefecture in 
department Yienne (population, 19,828), and seat 
of the government arms factory. Inferior cutlery, 
grindstones, and paste diamonds are branches of 
local trade on the Yienne ; it is crossed by a good 
bridge, with an old four-turretcd Oate at one end. 
It stands among pleasant bills and gardens, and 
has the Gothic Church of St. Jean, the tower of 
which is modem. The Duke of Hamilton claims to 
be DukeofChatellerault, through the titleconferred 
on his ancestor, Regent Arran, for negociating 
the marriage of Mary Stuart ; but Napoleon III. 
gave the title to a French branch. 
hotels. — De rEsperance; rUniyers. 
Steamer, in summer, early in the morning, 
down the Yienne and Loire, to Tours, Saumur, 
Angers, Nantes. Cetion (2| miles), as well as 
Moussay (on the Clain), is another supposed sitQ 
of the Saracen defeat by Charles Martel, at what 
is called the Battle of Tours. 

Bail from Chatellcrault through pleumartin 
and Laroche-Fosay to Touruon St. Martin (above) 
for Le Blanc. 
[LAROcaB, orBocu£-PpsAY(14 miles oast-south- 
east), on the Creuse, where the Qiirtcmpejoins^ 
has some cold sulphur Springs (discovered 
1673) in the liro^stoue, which arc taken 
between July and Septf^mb^r, and are useful ii} 
serof uUt ^kio diseasiii, ^nd iute;-D)itt€Dt fever .3 




r 



174 



BRADSHAW*S ILLUSTHATED 



[Sec. 4. 



Le8-Barre8-le-Nalntre (8 miles), near the 
rennains of a Roman mansio. 

La Trieherle (3 miles). 

Dlssals (3f miles), on the Claln, is known for 
its red wines. It has an old ch&tean. 

Clftn (2} miles), higher np the Clatn. 

ChaBSeneull (if mile), in the pretty valley of 
the same river. Orand-Pont, on the Saumur line. 

At 5 miles farther is 

F0ITIEB8, or Polctlen, 

209| miles from Paris, 153 1 from Bordeaux. 
The station is not far from the old Castle, in the 
valley of the Boivre. Population. 37,497. 

HoTBU. — Grand Hotel du Palais, first-class 
hotel, recommended. 

De TEurope; de France des Trois Piliers. 
Buffet at the Station. 

Post Offlct^ Rue du Chaudron d'Or. 

Telegraph Office^ Place de la Prefecture. 

1^^ Objects of Notice. — Roman arches — Palais 
de Justice— Maison de la Pr^vdtd — Cathedral — 
Churches of Rad^gondo, Montiemenf, St. Hilaire, 
Notre Dame, Ac— Baptistery of St. Jean — Pierre 
I.ev€e— Field of Cardinerie. 

A very old city, capital of department Vienne and 
the old province of Poitou, seat of a cour imp^riale, 
university, college, bishopric, Ac, on a rocky height, 
about 130 feet above the Clain, where the Boivre 
joins, and, with the other, almost surrounds It. As 
yoa look at the town it has a most picturesque ap- 
pearance, with its gardens and meadows; but the 
streets are crooked, dirty, and steep ; and the houses 
mean, though interesting from their antiquity. 
Some remains of the Gothic walls arc left, pierced 
by six Gates, four of which lead out to the Clain. 
Thaton the south, Portede laTranchde, takes you to 
the Pare de Blouac Promenade, on the rise of the op- 
posite hill, whence there is a fine prospect ; beyond, 
at the Hermitage, arc four arches of a Roman aque- 
duct, called the Arcs deParigny^ which supplied the 
Arines, or amphitheatre, the ruins of which are in 
the court-yard of H6tel d'Evreux. Its length was 
upwards of 500 feet. Csesar called this place 
£4m(mum ; it was then the capital of the Pietavi, 
who gave name both to it and the province. 

The Vandals, Visigoths, Saracens, and Normans, 
took it in succession, but the most memorable event, 
' '^—'•sbman, is the famous Battle of 1356 



(fought at Cardinerie, orMaupertuls, a few miles 
to the south-west), in which the Black Prince, Ed- 
ward III., and Chandos, with 14,0C0 men (4,000 of 
whom were archers), defeated 50,000 French,taking 
prisoners King John and his son, with an arch- 
bishop, and seventy nobles, besides men-at-arms, 
leaving 11,000 French counts, barons, knights, Ac, 
dead on the field; the English loss being3,400 killed. 
By the treaty of Brctigny, four years after, it was 
given, with the province, to the English, but was 
recovered by Dugucsclin, 1372. The Huguenots 
held it for a time in 1562; and it was besieged, in 
1569, by Coliguy (vrlthout success), before hit d^eat 
at Montcontour. They show, on the banks of the 
Clain, the Grotto of Calvin, where he used to meet 
his disciples. In modem days, Poitiers is remark- 
able for the attempted rising of General Berton, in 
1822, for which he was executed. 

The Palais de Justice, in Rue des Cordeliera, on 
the hill, includes part of the scat of the counts of 
Poitou, such as Maul>crgeon tower, and the Scdle 
des Gardes, — a timber-roofed hall, in a half-Norman 
style, 16i feet long, and the Salle des Pas-Perdus, 
lately restored. It was rebuilt, 1395, after the 
English had burnt it. Here Charles VII. was pro- 
claimed King of France, when he was little more 
than **Roi de Bourgcs." At the comer of Rues de 
St. Paul and du Coq is a house in which Diane de 
Poitiers lived. The Prefecture was the old bishop's 
palace, and offers nothing remarkable. The modem 
Hdtel de Ville is the head-quarters of the Communt, 
a corporation, as old as 1199; a Universily, fonnded 
by Charles VII., in 1431, is now represented by 
a Facultd des Lettrcs, which, with the Ecole de 
Droit, founded 1431, have a place in the ancient 
ffdtel Dieu, opposite Notre Dame. There are also 
various collections, including the public archives, 
the Bibliothhque of 80,000 volumes, and 800 MSS. 
(missals, Ac), with museums of Natural history, 
pictures, and antiquities; open daily. There is a 
bust, by David, of M. Boncenne, the lawyer, who 
died 1840. 

The Maison de la Pre'vdle, a curious house of the 
I5th century, in that street, is now used as a 
school; another house of the same rt^o is in 
Rue de I'Arceau ; and In Rue du Mai-ch^ stands 
one in the Renaissance style. The ancient Juris- 
diction Consulalro, in Rue de la Mal:ie, was built 



lloute 35.] 



HAND-BOOK TO ITfiANCE. 



J 



by a native, Girpuard, who is tho author of the 
portal of the Angastine church, in Place d'Armes. 
Poitiers is remarkable for many old Churches, most 
of which have been carefully renovated of late 
years. 

St. Pierre's Cathedral, in a mixed Romanesque and 
Gothic style, was begun about 1042, carried on by 
Henry II. of England, in 1152, and finished in 1379, 
except part of the front, which is as late as the 15th 
century, and has two towers and a rose window. 
Length 823 feet, by 100 wide, and 97 feet high, to 
the vault of the nave, which stands on sixteen 
pillars, and is strengthened by buttresses. It con- 
tains painted windows, a fine organ by Gliqnot, a 
good choir; and has immensely thick east walls. 
At the Grande Seminalre in the old Gordeliers' 
convent, is a good library of 10,000 volumes and 
MSS., with a figure of a winged dragon, called 
Grande Gtteule, which used to be carried in proces- 
sion during Rogation days, when it swallowed the 
offerings of the faithful. At Rouen such a monster 
is called Gargonille, for a similar reason, namely, 
his having a capacious throat — the English word 
Gargoyle has a similar origin. 

Close to the Cathedral is the church of Ste. Rad4- 
gonde (Clotaire's wife), a narrow Romanesque 
building of the 12th century, with a carved portal 
of the 15th century, a good nave, unsupported by 
pillars, an ancient sacristy, the Pas dc Dieu chapel, 
and a crypt, where they show the Tomb of the saint, 
as well as of 8t. Agnes, first abbess of St. Croix, 
before which lights are kept perpetually burning. 

A little further i« the very ancient rectangular 
baptistery of St. Jean, built in the 4th or 5th century 
(some say the 8rd, as a Roman temple), formerly 
used as a Musee of antiquities, but now as a place 
of worship. Another old church is that of Mbntier- 
nen/, built 1076-96, as part of a Benedictine abbey, 
founded by Guy Geoffrey, Count of Poitiers; a 
mixture, like the rest, of the round and pointed 
styles, except the choir, which was rebuilt in the 
14th century, and contains a modem tomb to the 
founder. It stands near the large cavalry barracks 
and Pont de Rochcreuil, in the north division of 
the town. 

In Place du March^ is the Romanesque Church of 
Xotre Dame la Grande, which some fix in the 9th 
century, and some in the 10th; it has a rich and 



highly curious front, car^-ed with statues and sci 
tures, of Adam and Eve, the Annunciation, Ch 
in the Manger, Ac; and inside, a bas-relief of 
Resurrection, a brass reading-desk and a pul 

Si. Porchaire has a tower of the 11th century, i 
a carved front, with a tomb of its saint. 1< 
Grande Porte and the railway station is part of 
Hiiaire, built 1049, on the site of one by Clovia 
honour of Pope Hilary, and burnt, 863, by theJ 
mans. It contains a Romanesque apse, the sail 
shrine (which holds part of his skull and arm boi 
and some statues commemorating the dclivcra 
of the town from the English, 1202. St. Trii 
offers a front of the llih century. In the Cordelit 
church, Madame de Montespan was buried. 1 
Lyceum, or college, founded by Henry IV., in 16 
has a Chapel worth notice, near the usine a gaz. 

Manufactures of furs and cheese. 

For the branch rail to Rochefort, Ac, see Ro 
37. Rail to Limoges, see below. The Ven* 
rail to Saumiir, 69 miles, passes Mlrebei 
(below), HonCOntOUr (below), Loudim (pi 
173X Montreuil-Bellay (below), to Saumur, 
the Loire (page 185). 

nUrebeau, the old capital of Mirebelais, hai 

castle, built by Fonlques Ntfra, in which Her 

of England's widow, Eleanor, was besieged 

her grandson, Arthur. 

MoncontOUr, on the Dive, is celebrated for 1 

defeat of the Hugfuenots under Coligny, 15 

"Oh, weep for Montcontour! oh, weep for 1 

hour!" 

Montreuil-Bellay. population, 2 104, on t 

right bank of the Thouet, 15th century cas 

and church. Tower of an older castle, a 

remains of town walls.j 

Excursions to the Pierre Lev^e Dolmen (1 mil 

38 feet long, noticed by Rabelais. It stands n( 

the Clain, on five low pillars, and is inscribed wi 

names from the 16th century, among which 

Mercator. The Cardinerie (4 miles), near Noaille' 

Nouvaille abbey, where the battle of Mauperti 

(as French historians call tho Battle of PoitUt 

was fought. St. Benoit Abbey ruins, near anotl 

famous rock, PasseeLourdin, celebrated by Rabela 

Also Beruges (5 miles west), with its Roman vaul 

Fleury aqueduct, and Guienne Tower; and t 

Cistercian Abbey of Pin (7i miles), now a thrc 



r 



^ 



176 



B&APiiUJLW S ILLUSTBATED 



[Sec. 4. 



factory, neurthe caetle ol lfai}/r«tfil-£ofnf«», which 
iHslongred to the Dukes of Aquitaine, and the 
Lusignanp, and was the residence of Coeor-de-Lioii, 
Dn^^ttesclio, and the Montmorency. 

In 1890. a line (62 miles) was opened from 
Poitiers through HUglialOllX-Noalil^, to Le 
Blanc (page 178), and thence to ArgeBton (see 
page 306), on the Paris-Orleans line. The places 
on this line are chiefly remarkable for old churches 
and castles, dating from the 11th and 12tb centuries. 

[The rail from Poitiers to MontmorilUm and 
Limoges turns off at St. Benolt (1) miles), 
and passes on to KietUl-rEspoir (7 miles) ; 
LUBSaC-les-CMteauz (15 miles), on the 
y icnne. Then comes MontmOXUlon, 8 miles 
(population, 5,268), on the Gartempe, in a 
pretty spot. It is remarkable for a Chapel ot 
Temple^ partly Romanesque, eight-sided and 
vaulted, over a vault or crypt lit with narrow 
slits. Four quaint groups are carved above 
the chapel door. Botel. — Du Grand Uonarque. 
(From Montmorillon a line, 24^ miles, runs to 
La Trimouille, St. HUaire, and Le Blanc). 
After this, the line runs up the Gartempe to Le 
Dorat (12 miles), in ilaute Yienne, in a charm- 
ing part of the S^rre, which has a fortified 
Church of the 10th century (the walls being 
battlemented). Population, 2,868. Sotel.—De 
France. Thence past DrO^Z Hi miles), Ac, 
to Bersao (18^ miles) and St Sulplce- 
laurier, on the line from Paris to LUnoges. 
A short cut direct to Limoges runs Inmi Le 

Dorat, vid Bellao, VauliTf Thomon, «c.] 

Leaving Poitiers for Angouldme (a part opened 
1858), you pass through a tunnri of 884 feet to the 
Clain, along which the rail runs, with a succession 
of bridges, cuttings, and embankments. 

St. Benolt (li mile). 

ULSUg^ (about 8 miles), on the Clain, was once 
the seat of St. Martin de Tours, who hero founded 
the earliest monastery in western Europe. Then 
another tunnel at Bachdes, of 1,407 feet. 

VlVOnne (8 miles), up the Clain, where the 
Yonue joins. A good trade in woollens and grain. 
Population, 2,452. 

OoVLlX^ V^rae i%k miles), Oil the Dive. 



SpanYUUers (4i mUes). 
St SavioL 

From St. Saviol a line rnns past CtTTay^ to 
ClLarrOi;.X (10| miles), which is continued to 
L'assac-le8-Cliateanx(see above), on the Poitiers 
and Limoges line. 
EClYray, a sous-prefecture (population 2,558), in 
department Yienne, in a rich hollow on the 
Charcnte, includes an old Chdteau^ in the 
faubourg across the river, and has a large, 
ancient, and curiously-carved Church, of the 
12th century.] 
llUlTeC (8| miles), on the little rivulet Liain 
(which produces good trout), is a sous-prefecture 
in department Charente (population, 3,527), in a 
grass and com country, noted for its trvffies and 
partridge pies, chestnuts, and cream cheeses. 
Hotels. — Des Ambassadeurs ; des Postes. 
The Church is of the 11th century. Near it are 
the Condac windmills and several forges, and the 
old chateau of Broglie, in a large forest. Des Plans 
tu/nnel, which next succeeds, is 1,640 feet long, and 
is near the ancient Church of Courcome. Several 
deep cuttings are passed in this part of the line. 

Here a branch, 52 miles long, connects this line 
with Klort (page 192). 

[The principal stations are VlUefagJiaxi (popu- 
lation, 1,522); Chef-BoutOnne (population, 
2,211) near which are some mcgalithic monu- 
ments; BrlOUH: (population, 1,257); Melle 
(population, 2,848), see page 192; Celles-Snr- 
^eUe, with a population of 1,621, and an 
ancient abbey-church, part of which is 12th 
century; alsoFraheCG( (population, 1,104).] 

BlOUPsaC (5f miles) is near Les Nbgres, on the 
Lieu, opposite Verteuil Chateau, a seat of the dukes 
of Rochefoucauld, lately restored. It was once 
occupied by the EJnglish. Here Lpuis XIII. stayed 
in 1 616, on his return from Bordeaux. The next 

station, 

I«m^ (5 miles), is not far from Mansle, a town 
of 1,611 souls, on the Liain, where it joins the 
Charente, which runs through green meadows, 
under a high stone bridge. Population, 900. Cross 
the Charcnte on a bridge of 4 arches. 

To the left of the line is the forest of St. Amant 
de Boixe, in which are some prehistoric reiixaiDs, 
consisting pf tumuli and dolmens. 



ilAKD-BOOK to FllAJJOfe 



Houtd 35] 

Then come St. Amaht de Doixe (populatluii. ; 
1,2*29) and J 

Vara (lO miles), on the Charente, 6 miles from 
tt^ old Abbey Church (built 1170) of St. Amand de 
Boixe. Hereabouts the sons of Chilperic were 
killed in fighting against Sigebert, in 676. 

At 8f miles further (across the Touvre) is 

ANQOULEUE. 

380 miles from Paris. The station in Faubourg 
de THoumeau is the old Marine School^ remodelled 
for the purpose. In this faubourg are several 
works for paper, sugar, spirits, and potter}'. 

PoPULATiox, 36,690. Buffet at the station. 

Hotels. — De France; du Palais; des Postcs; 
de la Croix dOr. 

Objects of Notice. — Cathedral — Castle — Hotel 
de Taillefer— St. Martial's Church. 

An ancient town or city, on the Charente, capital 
of that department (formerly of the province of 
Angoumois)^ seat of a bishopric, Jbc, called Iculisma 
by the Romans. It stands at a good height (about 
230 feet) on the rocks above the river, in a pure 
but sharp air, looking, at a distance, something 
like Chester, and commanding, from the l)oule- 
Tards, a wide prospect over the rich and beautiful 
wine country round the basins of the Charente 
and Anguienne, Ac. The old town is, as usual, a 
nest of ill-built narrow streets. In the Place 
d'Artois is a fine sloping promenade running from 
the HOtel de Ville, with a pillar 50 feet high, raised 
by a former Duchesse d'Ang^ul^me, to the 
memory of her husband. This memorial was 
afterwards dedicated to the heroes of July. 

The Cathedral of St, Pierre, mostly rebuilt, 181C, 
is a square pile, remarkable chiefly for its Roman- 
esque front of the 12th century, surmounted by an 
entablature and two pepper-boxes at the comers, 
of the 17th century. Near the top are figures of 
the Almighty and the four Evangelists. Its tall 
steeple was burnt by the Calvinists in 1568 ; in 
falling it crushed a church, and the handsome 
Renaissance chapel of St. Gelues. Its new tower is 
one of six stages, by Abadie, who is the architect 
of the new Romanesque Church of St. Martial^hvSii 
1863, and 190 feet long. | 



1^7 



^ 



St. Anson^s Church, in the ogival style of the 
12th century, is aleo nnodcrn. It has some good 
sculpture. 

The Hotel de Ville, by Abadie, in Place de la 
Commune, includes two round and polygonal 
towers of the 12tb and 14th centuries, of the 
Ccutle or chfttelet, where the sister of Francis I., 
Marguerite des Marguerite* (Pearl of Pearls) was 
bom; now used for a prison. Our John Lack- 
land's wife, Jsabelle de TailUfer, was born in the 
old palace of the family, in the street of that 
name. The Palais de Justice, in Place du Mnricr, 
contains the Library of 14,000 volumes, including 
the first book printed here (1481), and a Xenophou 
by H. Stephen, with his autograph. New Lyceum 
in Place de Bcaulieu. The Hotel Dicu was founded 
by Guez de Balzac, a reformer of the French lan- 
gruage, opposite the house he was bom in. His 
tomb is in the chapel of the Hospice, 12th and 
14th centuries. The bishop's house has been 
restored by Abadie. Under the rocks to the north 
is the Grotto of St. Cybard. 

Ravaillac, who assassinated Henry IV., and 
Poltrot, the assassin of the Duke of Guise, were 
natives. Angouldme was given up to the English 
after the battle of Poitiers. It suffered in the wars 
of the Huguenots, and first gave title to the Due 
d'Angouldme, who commanded at the final siege of 
Rochelle. 

Trade in excellent paper (made in the various 
mills around at Veuze and Maumont, employing 
2,500 workmen, on the Touvre), and in buildin;; 
stone. A government cannon foundry at Uuello 
(7 miles), and powder factory at Th^rouat, on the 
Charente, 3 miles from Angoulgme. 

Conveyances: By rail to Cognac (see IkIow), 
Rochefort, Limoges (Route 43), Pdrigueux, &c. 

[From Angoulime, on the rail to Rochefort, by 
the State Line, down the Charente river and 
brandy district, we pass Et. Micliel-Blir- 

Charente (3 miles), Nersac m miles), 

Slreuil ('H miles), near Hiersae, noted for 
red wines; then to Ch4teaimeuf-8Ur- 
Charentei from which a branch of 13 miles 
runs to BarbesleilX (see next page), to be 
continued to Bordeaux. From ObAteaaneuf to 



r 



178 



BRADSHAW^S ILLUSfiUtEl) 



[Sec. 4. 



Jumac-SegOnSaO (7i miles), with a population 
of 4,880, and a ^ood brandy trade, is at tlie 
suspension bridge on the Charente, in the 
middle of vast meadows, and is famous for the 
BaitU of 1569, when the Duke of Anjou defeated 
the Huguenots, under Coligny^ and the Prince 
of Coudtf, who was killed. When Guy Chabot 
de Jamac was having a friendly pass at arms 
In the presence of Henry II., in 1547, he gave 
his opponent a sly stab with a dagger ; hence 
a treacherous blow is called a coup de Jamac. 

Cognac (82 miles), a sous-pr€f ecture, and town of 
17,392 inhabitants, on the south side of the Cha- 
rente, commanded by an old castle, at the west 
end of the fruitful country furnishing the well- 
known Cognac Brandy. The tract belonging to 
the growers of La Societi^ Vignicole Champe- 
noise is a circle, 20 to 25 miles diameter, 
having Segonzac for the centre, and taking in 
Cognac on the west, Jamac on the north, 
Chftteauneuf on the east, and Darbezieux on 
the south . The annual trade is about £ 8,000,000; 
the leading firms being Hennessy, Kartell, 
Ac. Francis J. was bom here, under an elm, 
in the Castle grounds. iToteb.— D'Orleans; de 
Londrea; de France. lUHdent Engli^ Conaml. 

For the rest of the line to BalnteB (16 miles) 
and Ito61iefi)rt (28 miles), see Route 37a.] 

From Angoulftme station the line passes a tunnel 
of 2,428 feet under the town, and crosses the An- 
goienne, Ac, leaving on the west the ancient 
Church of 8t. Michel cFEnlraigues, built 1187, an 
octagonal edifice, lately restored by Abbadie. 

La Conroniie (5 miles). Population, 3,490. 
Here are an old church, founded in the 12th cen* 
tury, and the fine Aibey ruins of the 12th century. 
MoutlilerB (4i miles), on the BoSme, in a plain, 
dividing the basins of the Charente and Dronne. 
On a conspicuous rock stands RochcTtandry Castle^ 
built In the 9th century, and restored in 1855, by 
an Angouldme banker. Couteaublbres viaduct^ on 

. IS arches, 998 feet long, succeeded by cuttings, 
one of which Is 92 feet deep. To the west is 
Bbauliku, a fine spot at the sovrceofthe Touvre, 
which springs up among rocks (under the ruins of 
Bavaillac Castle) like Yaucluse. 
Ghamuuit <4i miles) has an ancient spire 

, eluurch of the 12tli century. The oovitry is flat 



and uninteresting, and timteraed by deep cnttings, 
and Llvemant tunnel, 4,826 feet long. Then a cast- 
iron viaduct, over the Chavenat, brings us to the 
valley of the Tude. 

MOBtmoreau (8 miles), on the Tude, has some 
remains, on the hill above It, of a castle of the 
bishops of AngoulSme. Its Romanesque clxurch 
has been restored by Abbadie. Population, 790. 

ClialalS (10 miles) was taken by Charles YII. 
from the English, 1472. Some traces remain of 
the castle of the Counts of P^rigord, whose motto 
In the provincial patois was Re'queDiou (rienque 
Dleu). Correspondance to Aubbtbkbs (7| miles), 
on the Dronne, a pretty little place under a hill. In 
which the church Is scooped out, just below the 
top, where the ruined castle stands. Riberac, a 
small sous-pr€fecture. Is 11 miles further. Popu- 
lation, 3,696. Hotet-^DVL Ptfrigord. It has an old 
church and a castle, with a hat factory. Rail to 
P^rig^ieux. 

[At 18 miles west-north-west is Bail>eil6nXi ^ 
station on the Charente RaU (page 177), a 
sous-prefecture of 4,104 population (depart- 
ment Charente), and a pretty place on the 
Dronne, in the Cognac Brandy country. There 
are remains of a castle, and it has a good 
mineral water. J7o<«te.— >De la Boule d^Or; de 
France.] 

La lUXdie-ClialalS (8f miles), in department 
Dordogpne, on a hill. Montlleu, on the high road. 
Is 17| miles west-north-west. Coaches to Jonzac. 

IM EgUBOttea (4f mUes). 

Coutras (5i miles), in department Glronde, at 
the junction of the L*Isle and Dronne (two sus- 
pension bridges), la near the site of Corterate. 
Population, 4,281. Botei- Du Lion d'Or. Bvffet 
at the station. Here the JuncOoii rail from 
Limoges and Ptfrigueux falls In ; down the L'Isle 
(see Route 44). The line from Salutes also joins 
here. Only the gate of Its once lai^ Castle re- 
mains. The line traverses the grounds. It be- 
longed to the family of de Foix. Here Henry of 
Navarre slept after the Battle of Coutras^ 1587, in 
which he defeated the Leaguers under the Duc'de 
Joyeuse, who was killed. This was the first 
victory gained by the Protestants, and waf an- 



Rotite-35.] 



ttANt)-}IOOK TO FRANCE. 



179 



nouuced to Henry III. by the victor in these 
words, "Sire, luon seigneur et frbre, remcrciez 
Dieu, J'ai battu vos ennemis et voire arm^e\'^ Henry 
III. being secretly favourable to the Protestant 
leaders. After crossing the L'Isle, on a bridge of 
iix arches, each 49 feet span, you come to 

St. DonlS-de-File (H miles), and its Roman- 
esque church, shaped like a Greek cross. The 
Cb&teau of GrOiVe belongs to the Due Decazes. 

LibOlinie m zoUea), a fine well-built town and 
80U8.pr^fecture (in department Giroude) of 17,867 
population, on the Dordogne, where the Isle joins 
it, under a handsome suspension bridge. Another 
bridge of nine arches crosses the main stream, 
which has a Port large enough for 300-ton ships. 
Liboume succeeded a place called Condat^ and as 
one of the chief places in Gascony, was rebuilt and 
fortified by Edward I. of England. The old 
machicolated tower styled Tour de VHorloge (with 
a peaked top added) remains at the Port ; it was 
formerly called Tour de Richard, after the Black 
Prince's son (Richard II.), bom at Bordeaux. The 
church of St. Jean was rebuilt 1856. It has a 
public library; a botanic garden; large cavalry 
barracks, and glass factory; civil and military 
fiospital; theatre, and statue of Decazes. Trade 
in wine and grain. 
Hotel*. — De France; des Princes. Buffet. 
The old pilgrim chapel of Notre Dame de Condat^ 
in the neighbourhood, was built by Eleanor of 
Gnienne, through whom Henry II. acquired this 
territory. Froruac^ across the Dordogne, is known 
for its red and white wines. It stands under the 
Tertre de FroTuac, a hill, of about 280 feet, com- 
manding a good * panoramic view. Its ancient 
castle is gone. Rail to St. Emilion, Castillon, &c., 
up the Dordog^iet to Sarlat. 
[St. Emlllon (6| miles from Liboume), in a 
gorge among vineyards noted for the fine 
quality of their wines, is a decayed fortified 
town, having many antiquities to show: as, a 
parish church of the 12th century, with hand- 
some slender spire ; the f a9ade of Cardinal de 
Cauterai*8 Palace; remains of the Convents of 
the Dominicans and Cordeliers; the Hermitage 
of the Saint, near the Place, cut in the rock, 
close to a fountain, where they show his stonci 
1>ed and chair ; hid monolithic Tem^U or church, 



in the rock, 85 feet by 53, with ft vault resting 
on eight great pillars, and various carvings; 
and what Is called the Rotonde or round chapel, 
in a light Gothic style of the Tith century. 
There are also remains of the Castle^ built by 
Louis VIII., which has a square tower, &c. 
Guadet, the Girondist, was bom here, and was 
beheaded at Bordeaux, with Barbarous, Ac, 
after their proscription by the Jacobins. 
Potion and Buzot were found starved to death 
in a com field, since called '* Champ des 
Emigres:' Population, 3,283. J?o<e2L— Dnssant. 

The line passes St. Laurent-des-Combes to St. 
Etlenne de Llsse, and then 

Castillon (6i miles from St. Emilion), higher 
up the river (population, 2,965), celebrated for 
thQ Battle of 1453, in which the English, ui^dcr 
the great Talbot (who, with bis son, was killed), 
were defeated by the French, and finally 
driven out of France. The line go<ss on to 

Kontcarret, St. Antotno-Porte Ste.- 
Foy, Oardonne. Prlgonrlenx-lAforce, 
and Bergerac, (page 212), Le BiUsscm, and 

Sarlat, (page 213). Let AtiUs de La/otxe are 
excellent, well managed charitable institu- 
tions for orphans, imbeciles, epileptics, &c. 
From Bergcrac, a line (i^ .1 iles), opened 1886, 
runs to Marmande, on the Guronne (see page 
274). 

About 8 miles north-east from. Castillon is 
St. Mi<^i-Montaigne^ the old feudal cb&teau of 
Montaign9y who wrote his '^'Essai*'' here. 
They show his room, in which are sentences 
from the Qible and the classics, a porti'ait of 
his daughter El^onore ; also his writing table, 
books, bed, and clock. To the north is 
ViLLEFBAMGHE DE Lo.sGCHAPT, a vcry Old place 
on a rock, walled round by the English, and 
taken by assault, 1577, by the Huguenots; 
Sully being among them.] 
Leaving Libourne, you cross the Dordogne, by a 
bridge on nine arches, the Tertre de Fronsac being 
in view; thena viaduct of 3,870feet on 100arches,to 
Arveyres (3 miles), a pleasant spot on a hill. 
Vayres (2| miles), anciently Vmsatedum^ has 
the old castle of its marquises to the west ; partly 
dating from the 18th century. They show 
Hiary rv.'s bed. 



180 



BRAD8dAW*8 ILLUSTBATSD 



[Sec. 4. 



St. Snlpled (d| miles). Interesting church. 

St. Lonb^B (2 miles). The plain between the 
Dordogrne and Garonne is called Entre Deux Mers, 
a sort of Mesopotamia on a small scale. 

La Oraye d'Ambar^B (6i miles), a vuiage of 

8 247 inhabitants. 

[Cdbzac (4 miles), on the Dordogne, here crossed 
by a splendid wire Stupention Bridge, in fire 
bends, 1,788 feet long between the river's 
banks, or 5,079 feet, including the viaducts 
which approach it <»i each side, 24^ feet wide, 
and 92 feet above the water. It was built 
1886-9, by Fortuntf-de-Yergez, for £120,000. 
The Bordeaux merchants have large ware- 
houses at this spot, which Is now a station on 
the line from Bordeaux to Nantes. 

naya (28 miles) a sous-prefecture of fi,015 souls, 
in department Gironde, and a pilot station, on 
the east bank of the Garonne. Here the branch 
rail from St. Mariens ends (page 195). It 
was the ancient Blavia^ and had a strong cattle^ 
taken by the Huguenots, 1£68, and then by 
the Leaguers. This now makes part of the 
citadel, on a rock in Upper Town, commanding 
the river (about 2} miles broad), in conjunction 
with the fort of le Pfttd (or the Fie), on an 
island in the midst, and Fort M^doc on the 
opposite side. In the old (Gothic tower of this 
castle the Ducheue de Berri was confined, 1833. 

A good mairio, hospital, theatre, Ac, are in the 
Lower Town, where the merchants and pilots 
live. At the Austin abbey here. King Caribert 
of Aqoitaine was buried, 681. Charlemagne's 
Champion, Roland, who fell in battle against 
the '*Paynim sons of swarthy Spain," at Bon- 
ces valles, in 778, was brought hither to be 
buried. Here the hero was bom. From 
Bourg, St. Disant du Gua, Ch^nac, and other 
points, fine views may be obtained of 

" thy mirror'd wave. Garonne, 

And Dlaye's empurpled shore." 

Scott's Rob Bop. 

Ships are built at Blaye, and there is a good 

trade in com, wine, brandy, oil, fruit, and 

timber. Hotels. — Du M^doc ; dcs Voyageurs. 

Steamers to Bordeaux, Panillac, and Royan.] 

After La Grave, the line bends to the south, past 

hlUs covered with vineyards and oowtry-teats, aad 



three short viaducts on eighteen, four, and seven 
arches, succeeded by three short tunnels, to 

Lonnont (if miles), a place of 3,236 souls, the 
ancient Mons Laurens, on the Dordogne. Here 
was a country-scat of the Archbishops of Bordeaux. 
A fourth tunnel, of 1,312 feet, is followed by a fifth 
of 919 feet, which brings us out in sight of 
Bordeaux, and to the Embarcadbre at la Bastide, 
opposite the town, close to the bridge, a buildiuEr 
984 feet long. The express trains, however, and 
those of the Midi line, run on to the Gare St. Jean, 
on the other side of the river. 

BORDEAUX, 

363J miles from Paris, 123ifromBayonne, 169} from 

Toulouse. 

For the lines to Spain and Toulouse, sec Routes 
63 and 66. For the Mddoc, see below. 

Omnibuses: To the Place de la Comddie, 30 
cents., and 20 cents, per package; to the hotels, 
50 cents., and 20 cents, per package. Tramways. 

HoTKLS.— Grand Hotel (de France et de Nantes 
r^unls), first-class, close to the Opera House. 
Vve. Louis Peter, Proprietress. 

Hotel des Princes et de la Paix. First class Hotel, 
situated facing the Grand Theatre. Grand Hoiel 
Richelieu, well situated, opposite the Opera House. 

Grand Hotel de Nice, flist class; known and 
recommended for comfort. 

Grand Hotel Fran^ais; Marin; Lambert; 
Londres; P^rigord; de Paris; des Ambassodeurs ; 
des Americalns. 

C<nfes. — Com^die, near the Theatre; de Bordeaux. 

Buffet.— At the Gare du Midi. 

Resident English and American Consuls. 

Retident English Chaplain, at British Chapel, 
Quai des Chartrons. 

Longehamp^s Bath Establishment, close to Jardin 
des Plantes. 

New Central Post Office. 

Telegraph Office, 4, Place Touroy. 

Telephone to Paris. 

Steamboats to Blaye, and Pauillac, daily; to 
Royan, twice a week. To London, weekly. To 
Lisbon, Senegal, Rio Janeiro, Ac, monthly, by 
the Messageries Maritimes, and fortnightly to 
Lisbon, Ac, by the Pacific Steam Navigation Co. 
To Liverpool. See Bradshaw's Continental Guide. 
OwjiCTS w NoTigs.— The (^ual ^^ pbar- 



Route 35.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FRAKCB. 



1«1 ^ 



trona— Bourse— TheAtro—H6tcl do VlUe— Palais 
de Justice — Museum — Churches of St. Michel, 
Ste. Croix, Ac— Tour de THorlogo -Cathedral— 
Efflgies of Montaigne — Palais Gallien— Place des 
Quinconces — Wine Cellars. 

Population, 252,415. Bordeaux is the third 
commercial port in France, the centre of the Vin 
de Bordeaux or Ciaret trade, chief town of the 
department Gironde (formerly of the province of 
Ouienne or Aquitaine), head of a military division, 
scat of an archbishop, &c. 

It stands on the west bank of the Garonne, 60 miles 
from the sea, where the river is 500 to 800 yards 
broad (the Thames at London Bridge is 350 yards); 
and it is from the water that you sec to advantage 
its noble range of quay* and buildings, stretching 
like a crescent, three miles long, from the ship- 
yards at the south end to the fine streets and 
houses at the north extremity, towards the Char- 
trons and Chapcau Rouge quarters, where the 
merchants live. A fine, nearly level, stone Bridge, 
of seventeen arches, 531 yards long, 115 feet broad, 
was built 1811-21, by Deschamps, from the Porte de 
Bourgogne to the village of La Bastide opposite. 

A Tubular Bridge, 545 yard*, now unites the 
termini of the lines which centre here. Large 
steam ferries have been established. The river 
below forms the Port, but the larger vessels anchor 
at Panillac, which is the real port. High water 
at full and change, three o'clock. 

A deep Floating Basin was opened in 1879 of 
100,000 square mbtres in area, and 10 mbtres deep, 
with a qua}' 18 metres broad. 

A Ship Canaf, to replace the Canal du Midi, is 
projected to the Mediterranean, 252 miles long, 
8i metres deep, with 62 locks and 15 levels. 

The Houses are large and well-built ; the higher 
classes are wealthy and luxurious in their habits, 
and particularly well-disposed towards the English, 
to whom Bordeaux and the province belonged for 
three centuries, down to 1451. The air is clear, 
but its climate is somewhat damp. The principal 
Buildings are as follow : — 

The Bourse (exchange), in Place Royale, near the 
bridge, is 98 feet by C5, and 78 feet high to the 
middle of the glazed dome. The Chamber of 
Commerce occupies a place here, with a library of 
d,000 Tplnmes, which includes a good ooUection of 



voyages. The Douane, or custom-house, is near the 
Bourse; both buildings are by Gabriel. In th« 
Place de la Com^iiic is the Grand Thidtre, a large 
and noble sti*ucture, built by Louis XYI., and opened 
1780 ; it has a Corinthian portico of twelve columns, 
with a great vestibule and staircase, and will hold 
4,000 persons. It is usually reckoned the best 
out of Paris. Here the Government Delegation 
had its head-quarters when driven from Tours by 
the Germans, 1871. The Th€fttre de Gymnase If 
new. Another, called les VarUt^ in Rue Foss^a 
de rintendance, was burnt down in 1855. 

The Pr^ftcture, in Ruedela Com^dle, is the work 
of Louis, 1775, and has been restored. Bdtel de 
Vtlle (or town hall), near the Cathedral, was the 
palace of the archblshopSt and was built, 1780-1, 
by Prince de Rohan, then primate of Aquitaine, 
It is a large square pile, with a court in the midst, 
and a picture gallery. Here they show Napoleon's 
own Cross of the Legion of Honour, a History 
of his Battles, with his MS. notes, and other 
curiosities, presented by General Bertrand; also a 
collection of antique arms. An older Gothic Town 
Hall is in the street leading to the bridge. The 
Palais de Justice (law courts), near the Hdtel de 
Ville, is a large and rather elegant building, 480 
feet long, built 1839-46, and has Maggesi's statuei 
of Malesherbes, d' Aguesseau, rHdpital,and Montes- 
quieu (who lived at Chftteau de BrMe, 10 miles oflf). 
Behind it are the prisons ; and opposite is the Hl^l 
2>t«v, or public hospital of St. Andr^, with 650 beds. 
It was rebuilt 1825-9, but founded as far back aa 
1390. New Muhidpal Building (1892) comprising 
ihepubiic Library of 170,000 volumes, and 300 MSS., 
among which is Montaigne's annotated copy of hii 
Essais; also the Museums of antiquity and natural 
history, and the Picture Gallery. The Pictwet 
number nearly 500, including Lesueur's Urania, 
Rubens' Martyrdom of St. Just, &e. Catalogue, 
14 fr. The Hospice des En fans Trouves, where 700 
foundlings are provided for, is on the Quai de la 
Paludatte. 

St. Andre's Cathedral, built by the English In 
the 18th century, the foundation having been laid 
by Henry II. and his Queen, is a large but irregular 
structure, with buttresses, &c.; it is 418 feet long, 
and has two spires, 265 feet high, in the north 
transept, a good rosp window, a fine ajt** •«*> •« 



^ 163 



BSAD8UAW*8 ILLU8TBATED 



arched roof, 56 feet broad, of the 16th century. It 
contains pictures by Veronese and Jordaens. Its 
detached Clock Tower, called Pey Berland, 156 feet 
high, was built, 1440, by Archbishop Pierre Berland, 
and is a fine piece of Gothic work, with buttresses 
at the comers, and a circular turret at the top. 

8t. iiichtVs Gothic Church, near the Quai de la 
Grave, was also built by the English, but has a 
north front of later date. Length, 248 feet. It 
was restored 1855. Its clock-tower, 854 feet high, 
is also detached and buttressed at the angles. The 
vault below the tower contains 72 mummified 
corpses ranged round the walls. 

Ste. Croix, near Quai Ste. Croix, thotlgh quite 
Irregular within and without. Is a most curious 
and interesting church, and the oldest here. It is 
Romanesque, of the 10th and 11th centuries, and 
was founded by William the Good, Duke of 
Aquitaine. The curious carvings on the front, the 
wall paintings, and carved font, deserve notice. 
8t. Seurin (or Severin), in Place de Prado, though 
modem in the front, is worth visiting for its 
ancient crypt of St. Fort, of the 11th century, to 
which mothers take their children every 16th of 
May, and to which, or rather to an earlier building 
on its site, the body of Roland was brought after 
his death at Ronocsvaux, or Roncesvalles, before 
his burial at Blaye (page 180). Notre Dame, a 
modem church, was rebuilt 1701 ; and the Feuillant 
church, attached to the Lyeedm, has the mailed 
effigry of Montaigne, who was a judge of the 
Bordeaux parliament, was twice mayor, and diied, 
15t>2, in Rue des Minimes. There are, besides these, 
seven nther Catholic churches, fottr Protestant 
churches, and a handsomesynngoguelnRueCausse- 
rouge. Some remains of the Chartreuse abbey 
ehurch Are left in the public Cemetery outside the 
town, where Moreaa is buried. It gives name to 
the Quai des Chartrons. 

The amphitheatre, or Palais OalHen, now hardly 
to be seen for the houses on it, is a Roman remain, 
near the Jardin des Plantes (botanic garden). It 
wftH 241 feet by 177, and 64 high. Towde Vllorloge, 
or clock tower, which was attached to the old 
Hotel de Ville, is nn old Gate built by Henry III. 
of England, and has three peaked turrets, with a 
lion on the middle one. , It stands 135 feet high. 
Round the bell is Inscribed its round of duties, 
-'.. . 4 ^ — ^^Q arma, Signc dies, J^oto h^ras, Com- 



[See. 4a 

peffo nubila, Concino lasta, Ploro rogos."* Another 
gate, Porte du Palais or du Cailhau, near the 
Custom House and Quai de Bourgogne, was built, 
1495, by Charles VIII. It is 112 feet high, and 
known by its five or six peaked turrets. It serves 
as a prison. In Place d' Aquitaine is the ancient 
EvtcM or bishop*8 house, near a gate or porte, which 
was converted into a triumphal arch when the 
Bourbons returned, in 1814. 

The Sntrepdt RM, for colonial produce, is & 
large pile on the Quai des Chartrons; on Quay de 
Bacalan, are the Victualling Office, and Viellard's 
(formerly Johnson's) large porcelain factory, which 
communicates by canals with the river. Hdtel des 
Monnaies, or old Mint, in Rue du Palais Gallien, 
is now disused. Bank, in Rue Esprit des Lois. 
Joubert's spinning factory is on a large scale. 
Cru8se*s Caves, or cellars, containing 80,000 barrels 
of wine, are worth visiting; so are Gacstier's, in 
Pav^ des Chartrons. Excellent Public Baths, near 
the Bourse, and in Place Lain^ ; also two swim- 
ming schools. 

The best Promenades are in the Cours d'Albroi 
de Toumy (so called after M. de Toumy, formerly 
Intendant, and a g^eat benefactor to the town, 
whose statue is near), and in the beautiful gardens, 
but especially in the largo Place Quinconces, on the 
site of the Chftteau Trompette. It is about a 
third of a mile long. At one end are Baths, at 
the other, two columns, 65 feet high, with gas 
reflectors. All these walks are laid out with 
avenues of trees. Fairs are held the first ten days 
in July, at the hippodrome at Gradignan (6 miles). 

There are at Bordeaux, a college or miiversity 
(as old as. 1441), schools of architecture and 
medicine, deaf and dumb institution, and many 
benevolent societies; an abattoir and large barracks. 

Amolig the persons bom here, are Ausonius, the 
Latin poet of the 4th century; Richani II. of 
England; Clement V.; Marcellni Empiricus, a 
physician; Ducos and other '^Ginmdists,'* who 
figured in the Revolution. Another native was 
Qirard, the rich merchant of New York, who 
sailed hence, 1762, as a cabin boy, and died worth 
two and a half mUiions sterling. 

Bordeaux (now so oalled as if firom k bord 
des eanx) was called Burdiffala by Strabov latet 
on U wa» called Bonrdeaux. Ausonias prait^t 



Bouto 83.] 



ttAND-BOOX TO Fm.VrO)S. 



ihi 



it for its soft climate, its long spring, and short 
winter. He describes it as four-sided; with 
high towers, and broad well-planned streets, and 
watered by the stream called Devitia (now La 
Devise); "and when father ocean flows up, the 
whole surface is covered with fleets," f,«., fleets of 
boats and small merchantmen. 

The Roman city stood between Place Royale on 
the Quay and the Cathedral. It had fourteen 
gates, of which the last (Porte Basse) was pulled 
down, IdOfi. the Visigoths burnt it, 412, and the 
Saracens again about 7^2. Bordeaux was for a 
time the capital of Gascony; and through Eleanor, 
wife of Henry II. (of England), it came to the 
English crown, as head of the duchy of Guienne. 
Henry III., who built the old Hdtel de Ville, made 
Simon do Montfort governor; Edward I., when 
prince, lived here; and from hence the Black 
Prince marched to the battle of Poitiers, and 
brought back John of France prisoner. Charles 
VJI. took it from the English in 1451, and built 
ChAtean Trompctte to defend it. This was for- 
tified by Vauban, and called Fort Louis; to build 
which stones were taken from a Roman Temple, 
"August© sacrum, Ac," called PiUiers de TuUlIe, 
the altar of which is In the museum of antiqui- 
ties. To this fortress was added Castle Ha, or 
Cailhau, above mentioned, forming part of L'Om- 
brlfere, the old palace of the dukes of Aquitaine, 
which disappeared in 1800, when this space was 
cleared. Here the Banquet of 9th October^ 1852, 
was given to the Prince President, Louis Napoleon, 
when he uttered his memorable words, "L*£mpire, 
c'est la Paix," which served to rally so many hesi- 
tating adherents round the imperial throne. In 
the present day it became the temporary seat of 
the National Assembly, February, 1871, which 
met in the Grand Th^fttro, and elected M. Thiers 
Chief of the Executive Power, declared anew the 
forfeiture of the throne by Napoleon III., and 
voted the treaty of peace with Germany. 

TVode.— The produce brought up by the Canal 
du Midi and by rail, and shipped to the French 
colonies, Ac, consists of hides, flour, seeds, brandy, 
almonds, prunes, chestnuts, cork, rasin, verdigris, 
honey, hams, Ac. The manufactures are per- 
fumery, liqueurs, ornamental frait-lx>xes, stockings, 
carpets, cotton, earthenware, bottles, casks, hats. 



paper, vinegar, tobacco, refined sugar, rope, and 
gloves from Andre's factory. Imports of all kinds 
from abroad. Aboat 100,000 tons of shipping are 
employed, which possess one-fourth of the French 
colonial trade. Ctaret Ufine is produced below the 
city, on the west side of the river, in the ifAioe 
District : about 50,000 tuns of the premiers crus, or 
"first growth " (called ChAteau Margaux, Lafitte, 
Latour, and Haut Brion),aro made yearly, and the 
best of it is sent to England. 

[From Bordeaux, by the Chemin defer du Medoc^ to 
Le Verdon, down the west side of the Garonne, 
in the wine country of the Mddoc (so called 
from its Roman name In medio aquas, signify hig 
a peninsular tract), you pass 

Blanqnefort (6 miles), which belonged to the 
Black Prince. Then Ludon (4 i miles); MacaU 
(If miles) ; MUgaoz (4| miles), near Chdteau 
Margaux (noted for its first growth claret), 
opposite Blaye (a short line frooi Margaux to 
Castelnan); near which are Beychcville, 
and ChAteau L^oville (second growth), and 
ChAteau Latour (first growth). 

Moults (4^ miles) ; beyond which is Ch&teau 
Iiafitte (another first growth, belonging to 
Mons. N. de Rothschild) ; then Pauillac (9i 
miles), 29i miles from Bordeaux, where large 
phips stop. Chateau Yquem, a fine old castle, 
gives name to a very choice wine. 

8t. Est^phOy where a first class wine is pro- 
duced. Other first growths (premiers crus) 
are St. Julien and St. Seurin. 

About one million acres and six millions of 
money were lost by the vine disease in 1879. 

The best Clarets are produced on a most unpic- 
turesque gravel strip, about two miles broad 
and 50 to 80 feet above the river. The vines 
are trained about two feet high in open fields ; 
vintage takes place in September. Chdteau 
Loudenne belongs to Messrs. Gilbey. The 
phylloxera appeared in this district, 1852. 

Lesparre (58 miles from Bordeaux), a small 
sous-prefecture in department Giroiide(popula«> 
tion 8,972), among vineyards and meadows. 
You then come to Boulao (1 6 miles), or Soulac- 
les-Bains, at the mouth of the Garonne, in the 
Bay of Biscay. 



r 



184 



BHADSHAW'S. ILLU8TRATBP 



From Lesparre a line (88 miles) runs along the 
sea coast to Facture (page 259), on the line 
from Bordeaux to Arcachon, and thence to 
St. Syxnpliorlen (see page 274). 

From Lesparre to Le YerdOU, 68 miles from 
Bordeaux, opposite Royan (page 194X and near 
the Phare de Cardouan, a rounds solid, light- 
house of three storeys, 2d4| feet high, built 
1611, by Louis de Foix, having large refrac- 
tors on Fresnel's system. It replaces one 
built by the English, 13fi2. From Le Verdon 
landing-stage, reached by tramway, there are 
steamboats to Royan, 30 minutes passage.] 



Tours to Angera, NanteB, and St. Nasalre. 

DOWN THR LOISK. 

By rail.— To Nantes, 122 miles. 

Touts » as in Route 85. The line runs cl<»e to 
tlie high levee road, which hems in the river. 
Passing Flessis-les-Tours, opposite St. Vallibres, 
and St, Cyr (where B^rangcr lived), you come to 

SaTOnnlires (h| miles), on the south bank, 
near the Cher, and the Villandry dropping caves, 
and opposite to Lvf/nez, which was called Maill^ as 
far back as 475, and was made, in 1610, the head of 
a duchy, by Louis XIII., for his favourite, Charles 
Albert de Luynes, who was originally his falconer. 
It stands in a pretty spot under the rocks (and 
was hence sometimes styled Rochoir-sur-Loire), 
which are hollowed out for people to live in; 
above, is the old Chdteau^ with a heap of peaked 
turrets. Paul Courier, assassinated here, 1824, 
was a native. Near it are about fifty pillars of an 
ancient Roman Aqueduct. The rail crosses the 
Loire by a 19-arch viaduct^ to 

Cl]l<|-Muni (4i miles), which stands on the 
cliffs, near an old Castle^ and a famous antiquaries' 
puzzle, called the Pile de Cinq-Mars^ a slender 
solid tower of large bricks, 18 feet square, 92 high 
to the comer turrets, which rise 10| feet higher. 
A fifth turret over the middle was blown down, 
1751. It has neither door nor window, and the 
builder is unknown; but it is supposed to be a 
mausoleum. Cinq-Mars, one of the favourites of 
Louis XIII., and son of Marshal d'Effiat, having 
conspired against Richelieu, was here taken in his 
own castle, and beheaded' He is the hero of Pe 
Vigny's novel. 



[8oc« 4. 

LangealS (H milea), on the north bank, has an 
old Gothic ChaUau of the 10th century, the oldest 
known, built by Foulques Nera, Count of Aj\)ou, 
and enlarged by St. Louis's barber, Pierre de 
Labrosse. In the Hcdl, the marriage of Charles 
VIII. with Anne of Brittany was celebrated, 1491. 
Population, 3,36-3. 

St. Patrice (•> miles) near the Bois de Bia- 
mond, and Rochecotte^ the handsome modem scat 
of Talleyrand's niece and heiress, the Duchesse de 
Dino. It contains his collection of pictures and 
objects of art. A little further is Trois-VIolcts, 
opposite the Chdteau dUui, formerly belonging 
to Vauban, who partly built it. 

La Chapelle-Bur-Lolre (4i miles). A little 

north-east is BovrgeuU^ in a charming red wine 
country on the Doigt, and having remains of a 
Benedictine Abbey ot the 17th century, founded by 
Edme, Duchess of Gulenne. Population 2,056. 

Port-BOUlet('2i miles), at the suspension bridge 
to Candes, which stands at the mouth of the Vlenne, 
near the picturesque mins of Monttoreau Caeile. 
Candes has the church in which St. Martin de 
Tours died, and Is close to Fonterrault (below). 

From Port Boulet, a line (33 miles) mns throngh 
Chlnon (see page 172) to Port de PUes (page 178), 
where It joins a line to Le Blanc (page 173). 
There is also a line (6i miles), via Nenill6-Pont- 

Fierre (page 197), to CMteau-Renault (page 

165). 
[PoNTBVRAULT(3 mllcssouthof Candes),ln depart- 
ment Maine-et-Loire (pop. 2,698), at the bottom 
of a wooded valley, once noted for its famous 
Abbey, founded for men and women of rank, 
by Robert d'Arbrissel, 1099, and now turned 
into a Prison for 11 departments. It was the 
burial-place of the Kings of England, when 
Counts of Anjou; and in the fine cathedral 
Church of the 12th century (one of five attached 
to the abbey) are Monuments of Henry II. 
and his wife, Eleanor; his son, Richard Cceur- 
do-Lion; and John's wife, Isabella. Copies of 
these interesting relics, including one of 
Richard's wife, Berengaria, are placed in the 
Gothic Court of the Crystal Palact. The Tour 
d'EvrauU, in the court, is the eight-sided 
Gothic kitchen of the abbey, with a chimney 
over the midtllc. Hot^^pe la Cro|x Blanc|ie] 



Boute 36.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FBANCB. 



185 



VaronneB C*^! milM) in department Maine-^t- 
Loire, lies opposite several river islands, and near 
Dampierre^ where our Henry VI.'s queen, Margaret 
of At^ou^ died broken-hearted, 1476. Then 5$ 
miles to 

SAUMITB. 

llcttU. — Budan, best and well situated; D'Anjou, 
a comfortable hutol; Grand Hotel de Londres. 

^tfj^.— Good and cheap, at station. 

A sous-prefecture of 14,867 souls, finely situated 
on the Loire, in department Mainc-et-Loire, with 
a college, military riding-school, chamber of com- 
merce, &c.; and was the capital of Saumurais, taken 
from the Counts of Blois by Foulques Ncra in the 
9th century. Its name is said to be a corruption 
of Sous-Ie-Mnr, the first houses having had the 
appearance of being built beneath a wall of rock. 
Under Henry IV.'s Secretary, Du PkssU-Momay^ 
the "Pope of the Huguenots," as the Catholics 
styled him, it became a flourishing Protestant 
town, having a good trade, and a famous Academy 
or Temple ; but it was ruined by the Revocation of 
the Edict of Nantes. 

From La Croix Vertc, on the railway side, a 
stone Bridge resting on lie des Ponts (where King 
Rend, Margaret's father, had a seat), runs over to 
the quay, the nearest half of which Is on 12 arches, 
and 900 feet long. Another bridge leads out of 
the town, by Porte Fouchard, over the Thouet, 
which joins the Loire a little below. The houses 
in the new quarters are well built of ijvhite »tone; 
but they are Irregular and steep in the older part, 
called Haute Ville, or Upper town, above which 
stands the irregular Donjcn of the old ChAteau, 
built about the 18th century (on the site of one of 
Pepin's, called chAteau du Tronc), once a state 
prison, and now an arsenal. 

St. Pierre^* Gothic church Is cross-shaped, with 
a square tower. That of Nantilly is imperfect, 
and as old as the 11th century In some parts — ^with 
stout Romanesque pillars and arches, six windows 
on the north side, and a good west door. Louis the 
XI. gave it a silver Virgin. The restored chapel 
of St. Jean, near the Hdtcl de Ville, is of the 12th 
century. 

Xotre Dame des Arditiiers, under the cllflf, on the 
river side, was begun in 155f>, and added to by 
Ricfaclien and others; the Mqrquls dc Sable gave 



the painting, by Philippe de Champagne, of 
Simeon at the Temple Gate ; and A. Servier built 
the dome, 64 feet diameter. It contains the tomb 
of the Duchesse de Meilleraye, and forms part of 
the hospice of La Providence. 

The caserne or Barrack of the Cavalry School, one 
of the largest in France, is H-shaped, of four 
storeys, and comprises riding-8cho<ds, stables, Ac, 
and an esplanade. . It was founded as a school of 
equitation for the carabineers, in 1763. 

At the Gothic S6tel d« Ville, with its high 
pitched roof andpinnacles, is aMusde of antiquities; 
there is also a public Library of 12,000 volumes; 
a theatre, on arches, over the market-place ; two 
hospitals, besides that of la Providence; good 
baths, and many windmilli. Madame Dacicr, the 
Greek scholar, was a native. The Loire has more 
than once broken through the levtSes on the town ; 
especially in 1615, alone called the *' Deluge de 
Saumur," and again hi 1841. 
There are dwellings dug out of the solid rock. 
Glass beads, articles In enamel, and copper goods, 
&c., are made ; trade also in white wine (a cheap 
sparkling kind), eau-de-vie, and fruit. 
Steamer to Nantes, Tours, Ac, In the summer. 
At Vkrxantes (8^ miles, on the State raU 
between Chart res and Sanmur) are the clock- 
tower, painted choir windows, «kc. of the church 
of the Cistercian Abbey of Lourroux, founded 
1 121, by Foulques or Fulkc V., Count of Anjou. 
Brain (8| miles north-east) contains fragments 
of Coutanci^re ChAteau, which belonged to 
Bussy d'Amboise, the tyrannical governor of 
Anjou, who was killed by the Seigneur of Mont 
Soreau Castle, which is seen above the Loire. 
At Bagkeux (2 miles south of Saumur), up the 
Thouet, Is the PonHgn4 Dolmen, of fourteen 
stones, 64 feet long (one stone is 24 feet), the 
largest in France. 
The State rail from Poitiers comes in here, vid 
Montreuil-Bellay, Loudun, Ar^ay, Moncontour 
(see page 175). Mlrel)eau (page 175}, NeuTiUe, 
Ac. 
Montreuil-Bellay with its old Castte, is also 
a station on the Vendue State roil, where the 
Angers line comes in, rid Perray-JOQaiUiet. 
DOQ^ la Fontaine (also a station on the Angers 
line, 9 miles from Montreuil-Bellay), is a very 
old plape, Ua'ving remafpf of a •"" 






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HAND-BOOK TO FRAKCIS. 



Boute 36.] 

whose tomb, in wbichhis daughter Margaret (wife 
of our Henry VI.) was buried, was destroyed at the 
Sevolntion. The old ^vd^^ close to the cathedral, 
is on the site of the Roman capitol. 

Bend's great moated Ctutlty on a steep rock over 
the river, noav^ used as a powder magazine, was 
begun as early as the time of Philippe Auguste, as 
a palace of the Counts of Ai\}ou. Its walls are 
high and thick, and strengthened by seventeen 
towers of dark slaty stone ; the terrace has a good 
view of the river. It was dismantled by Henry III. 
8t. Serge^s curious old Gothic Church has a nave 
of the 15th century, with an earlier choir of the 
13th, supported by elegant light pillars, the work 
of Vulgrin, a monk, who became bishop of Mans. 
iVin^i Church, in La Doutre suburb, is a mixture 
of Romanesque and Gothic, 11th to 13th century. 
St. Joseph's is a new church, modelled after the 
cathedral. The great hall of the Hdtel Dieu, or St. 
John's hospital, in the Doutre, was built by our 
Henry II.; it is replaced by the new Hospice of 
Ste. Marie. In Faubourg St. Jacques is the large 
front of the abbey of St. Nicholas, a Romanesque 
building (now a wood store) founded in the 8th 
century by Ermengarde, wife of Louis le Debon- 
nalre. At the corner of Rue du Figuler is a fine 
Gothic house called Hotel cTAnJou. 

The Prefecture is on the site of St. Aubin's 
Abbey, and contains traces of the cloisters. H6tel 
de ViUe, a modem building on the Champ deMars. 
An old house, called Logis BarrauU, contains the 
public Library of 40,000 volumes with many rare 
MSS.; and the Mus^e, or picture gallery, a collec- 
tion of Flemish and French masters, many contri- 
buted by Lardvellllfere-Lessaux, an Angevin, and 
member of the Directory. Here also is a special 
Oallerp of Casts (Musie David) of all the works of 
P. J. David, or David d^ Anger, the sculptor, another 
Angetin, of whom his countrymen are justly proud, 
and whose statue is here. 

The CaMnet Tttrpin de Crissi is a general 
muaeum. 

The Gardens of the Prefecture are open Sunday 
and Thursday. Two miles away, at the Levies de 
Fremw, are the remains of an ancient camp, sup- 

poeed to be Roman. 

Notice, also, the Muaenm of Antiquities in the 
old Hdpiial St. Jean; the Botanic Gardens, with 
many exotlct; seikiinary; deaf and dumb (vchool, 



i8ir 



baths, theatre, race-course, and the School of Trades 
(arts et metiers), the chapel of which is 11th ceb- 
tury. A modem lyceum succeeds the University, • 
which flourished from the 12th century down to 
the Revolution. 

King Rend (whose statue is on Boulevard des 
LIces), Bernier, the traveller, and Manage, were 
natives. The Duke of Wellington spent two years 
of his early life here, for military training. 

Conveyances : Rail to Segr^, Chateau Gonthler, 
Laval, ChAteaubriant, and Rennes (Route 40), 
also to Loudun, vid Les PontB-de-Cl^, Jillgll^- 

snr-Loire, Thonarc^, Ferray-Jonaimet 

(short line to La FOBiOlllller^, page 188), 
Don^la-Foataine, (page 186), and Mobtreuil- 
Bellay (page 185X 40 miles. LeS POntB-de-C^ 

(6 miles) is so called after the wood and stone 
Bridge, which runs, by about 100 arches, acrosa 
the islands of the Loire — and from a Caisar's Camp 
here. On one of these islands, B^huard, there is a 
pllgp-im Chapel, with a portrait of Louis XI. There 
was a desperate fight on the bridge In 1793, when 
the Vendeans overpowered the republicans. 
Julgn^-Blir-LOlre is near the deserted Chdteau 
of the Dues de Coss^-Brissac, the last of whom 
was killed at Versailles, 1792. It is a complete 
specimen of the old chfttean. 

Rail to Noyant-M^on (40j mlles), the only 

station of importance being Baug^, see preceding 

page. 

[About 7i miles north-east of Angers is the fine 

old Castle of Plessis-Mace, with its towers, 

moat, square donjon, and machicolations. 

Further on, 30 miles troth Angers, on the line to 

Le Mans, is 
Sabl^ (see Route 15). 
At 2i miles distance from Sabie, up the river, 

near the quarries, is the old abbey of 
SoLBSHSS, founded 998-1095, and since rebuilt. 
The Church contains a remarkable collection 
of fifty bas-reliefs, and statues, by Geoffrey 
Pilon, in the 15th century, some the size of 
life, called the Saints de Solesmes. Among 
them arc the Sepulchre of the Virgin (a group 
of fourteen figures), Christ In the Grave (by 
Pilon's father), Christ with the Doctors.] 
From Angers, the Nantes railway passes, going 
down the right side of the Loire, 



HAND>-BOOK TQ FRANCE.' 



Route 36.] 

as Feydeau, Oloriette, Biesse, Ac; and a chain of 
six Bridges, from island to island, carries a road of 
2 miles length, across the river to the south bank, 
where the Sfevre falls in. There are eleven or twelve 
other Bridges. La Fosse quay, which is lined 
with trees and well-built houses, is part of a suc- 
cession of quays extending from the castle for half 
a league or more. The Erdre, too, is bordered 
with quays, and they are also carried round He 
Feydeau. The tide rises only a fathom, enough to 
bring up small vessels under 200 tons. A canal 
has been constructed, allowing ships of 1,500 tons 
to come up. The entrance to the Loire is rather 
foggy and dangerous. Larger ships stop at 
Paimbau/^ or St. Nazaire, 25 miles lower. 

From 2,000 to 3,000 vessels visit Nantes yearly, 
with fish f^oKi Newfoundland, sugar, and other 
produce, from the French colonies. Sardines or 
pilchards are caught in the season, and exported to 
Bstgikhd and elsewhere. Small corvettes and brigs 
are built here. Coarse woollens and cottons are 
made ; besides stoam<>engbie8, bottles, pottery, rope, 
canvas, vinegar, refined sugar, provisions for the 
navy, and tobacco, in the large government fac- 
tory. It gave name to " Nantz " (brandy). 

The streets are pretty good ; the houses of stone 
and slate. Besides the Promenades on the quays, 
there are those of St. Andre and St. Pierre (be- 
tween the Loire and Erdre), on the site of part of 
the ramparts, between which lies Place Louis 
XVL, marked by a statue of that king; and 
at the end are Statues of Anne of Brittany and 
Arthur III. (near the castle), with Oliver de CHs- 
aon and Dnguescltn, two famous soldiers. There 
■ro about twenty open Places, of which Place 
Boyale and Place Graslin are the best. A theatre, 
rebuilt 1810, with a Corinthian portico, stands in 
Place Graslin, ornamented by eight figpures of the 
Muses (the ninth being d^portde). 

St. Peter's Cathedral was mostly built, H54-1500, 
on the site of one founded •555, by St. Felix. It 
has a massive Norman choir, of the 10th century 
(the oldest existhig part, except the crypt), and a 
lofty flamboyant nave, 21 feet high. The west 
front, with its tliree well-sculptured portals, sup- 
ports two towers, 218 feet high, with a watch 
turret at the top of one. The altar-piece is an 
Italian composition. Its finest Monument is the 
(oi|ib, in bluck, w))[^, «pd x^ piM-blo, of FrnncU 



169 



II. (last Duke of Bretagne) ahd his wife Margaret, 
which was hidden at the Revolution. About 28 
accessory figures are counted, besides four larger 
ones at the angles, of Justice, Prudence, Ac; that 
of Justice being a portrait of Anne of Brittany, 
for whom the work was done, 1506, by M. Columb, 
a Breton sculptor. 

St. Nicholas is a new Church, in the style of the 
13th century ; its tower is 278 feet high. 

The only existhig feudal structure is the Chateau 
of the Dukes of Brittany, a large irregular pile of 
the 15th century (first founded 938), flanked with 
round towers, &c. Here Anne o/BrittanpwM born, 
and the late Duchesse de Berri (Madame, as she was 
called) was confined, after her capture in the town 
by General Dermoncourt, In 1832. One Dcutz was 
her betrayer. She and her companions were found 
hid away in the chtnmey of the Maison Guign>- 
close by. Her adventures are related by tlie 
General in his entertaining "Za Vendeeet Madame.'^ 
The Castle is now used as an arsenal. Its oldest 
part, called the Bouffay, which served for a belfry, 
was removed but lately. When Henry IV. saw 
the castle and fortitications of the town, at his 
entry in 1598, " Ventre-sainl-gris,'' cried the king, 
"/«# Dues de Bretagne n' itaient pas de petit s com- 
pagnons (were not small fellows). An explosion 
took place here in 1800, when a cannon being pro- 
jected into the air, fell on the roof of a house, and 
penetrated through every storey to the ground. 

The PrifecVs Hdtel, containing the Archives of 
Brittany, and well built, was formerly the 
Chambre des Compts, erected.1763, and has two of 
its fronts in the Ionic style. A colonnade in the 
same style, before the Bourse^ or exchange (built 
1809-12), on the quays, is ornamented with em- 
blematical statues, by Bertrand and Debay ; on 
another facade (towards the Port-au-Yin) of the 
Doric order, are Busts of French seamen, Duquesne. 
Cassard, Jean Bart, Duguay-Trouin. At the HCtel 
de Ft7/<, an uninteresting pile of the 16th century, 
are some Roman inscriptions, found on the site of 
the ancient town. The Palais de Justice is quite 
a modem building, one of the best in Nantes, 
having a handsome portico, staircase, &c. 

Public Library, with 90,000 volumes, besides M8S., 
with an Illuminated copy of Augustine's De Cvritate 
Dei. Mus4e ArchSologique, Court St. Pierre, wHh 
some curtout relics. Chrer the Helle^ftoz«T^ites i^ 



r 



190 



filUDSHAw's ILLU81IKAT1SD 



[See. 4. 



the Mumtm q^PaUUiagi, a collection of 700 or 800 
works, of various tchooUi many of tham bequeathed 
by M. Cacaolt and the Due de Feltrei, and among 
w^ich are two by MuHUo. A Natural HiUunt 
musemn in Roe da Porft Commoneau contains many 
good mineral specimena, and a curiosity in tlie 
sliape of the tanned skin of n republican soldier. 

Other buildings are — ^the churches of St. Siruiltcn, 
St. Francis de Sales, and N. D. de Psalette ; . five 
hospitals, inclnding the H6ttlDieUy built 1655; the 
general hospital of Si. Jean ; and a hydrographical 
school. There is also a Botanic Garden. 

Near the Hdtel du Commerce is a handsome 
covered way, built 1843, called Passage Pommerape, 
ornamented with Debay's statues. 

Besides Anne of Brittany, Cassard, a famous 
sailor, Fouch^, the police minister, Caillaud, the 
traveller, Leannec, the physician, and General Cam- 
bronne, were born at Nantes. The statue of Cam- 
bronne stands in Cours Henry IV. Marshal Gilles 
de Retz, the French Bluebeard, was burnt here in 
1440. Palais, or Pallet, in this neighbourhood, on 
the road to Clisson (Route 41), was the native place 
( 1 079), of -4 belard. The Chdteaux of Haute Goulaine 
and Sailleraye, near Nantes, are worth seeing. 

 Steamers: To Nort (up the Erdre) ; above it, in a 
pretty part where the river is like a lake, is Gftcherie 
Chftteau, where Marguerite de Navarre lived, when 
she wrote the '•'' HeptamerorL,'" a collection of licen- 
tious tales. To Faimboeuf (down the river) . 

Conveyances: By rail, to St. Nazaire, Redoa, 
Rennes, Brest, LaRoche-snr-Yon, Sables d'Olonncs, 
Rodtiefort, ^.; and to Chftteaubriant, 40 miles 
(page 198), viA SUO^ and Iss^. At Chftteau- 
briant it meets the branch of the Western, to 
VerSOnneB, Segrd (page 197), Chftteau-Gontler 
(page 198), Qennes, and SabM, 60 miles (page 
61). From Nantes, the State Line to Bordeaux, 
about 280 miles long, runs across the Loire to 

Pont Rousseau, Bouaye (9 miics), ste. Paa- 

aniLO (7 miles), where a branch of 18 miles turns 

off, vid St. HUaire, Boursneuf , La Bemerle, to 

Pomic (page 191); and from St. Hilalre, vid St. 

P^re-en-Betz, to PalmboBUf (page i9i), 13 miles 

from St. Hilalre. From Ste. Pazanne the State 

Line proceeds to Cludlans, Gommequtors 
(branch to St. QUleB Croiz de Vic, at the sea 
ci4^) apd La-BOAhe^ur-Ton (as below). Hence 



to Lu^on, Marans, Ac. (page 19«}, La Rochelle 

(page 195) and Rochefort (page 19S>, Tonzuty- 

Charente, Saliite8,Poxui, Jonzac, Sc M ariens, 
CSaiTlgnac, Oubzac, and Bordeaux (page i80). 

Rail through St. Philbert-de-Grand-Ueu (4,000 
Inhabitants) to Leg4. 

[From Nantes, on the f(ne to Sables dOUmne 
and Rochelle, you cross the IfOire, near Pout 
Rousseau, to VertOU (3 miles); CUsaoiL (12 
miles), above the picturesque valley of the 
Sfevre, where the Moine joins; having the old 
battered Castle of the Constable de Clisson, a 
soldier of the 14th century. A well, into which 
400 Yend^ans were thrown by General Kleber, 
1793, is filled up. About 6 miles north-e^st is 
Yallet, producing the best wine in the depart- 
ment (population, 4,901). The next station is 

Montalgu Vendue (7i miles); then VHer- 
bergement (6i mUes) ; BeUeYlUe-Vend^e 

(9^ miles) ; from which it is 8 miles to 

La Koche-8Ur-Yon, alias Napoleon-Yend^e, 
1830 ; aJtias Bourbon- Yend^ (when the Bour- 
bons were restored, 1815); alias Napoleou- 
Yille, as christened by the Emperor in 1805. 
Population, 12,215. Hotels.— Dg TEurope; du 
Pelican. 

This small capital of department Yend^ is now 
called by its original name of LaBoche-'^uy-'Yon^ 
from an ancient Castle on the precipitous rock 
over the Yon, which Oliver Clisson took from 
the English, 1373, and which came to. the 
Tremouilles and Bourbons, and was razed by 
Louis XIII. On its site is a large caserne, or 
barrack, near the Stattu of NapQleon^ put up 
1844. The old bourg has some steep streets. 

The Prefecture is an immense pile, round three 
sides of a square, and contains a library of 
5,000 volumes, <Scc. In Place Royale are some 
public buildings and hotels, with a bronze, by 
Maindron, of General Travot, a native, and the 
"Pacificateur de la Yend^e, 1838," when the 
Yend^ans again rose in behalf of the Bourbons. 
The Church is in the Greek style, with two 
domes. Theatre, Public Halle, Hospital, and 
government Stud. 

Here the line from Paris, vid Brcfssnlre, is joined. 

The rail to Rochelle proceeds WA'Lu^on, kc. 
(see Route S7b); btit the Paris-Sables line 



Honto 3?.] 

mns on to Ld8 CUotizMlttZ (5 miles), near 
the old abbey of Fontanelles, close to a good 
mineral spring. Then La Mothe Adiard 
(6^ miles), Olonne, and 
Sables d'Olonne (6f miles), a sons-prefecture 
In department Vendue (population, 11,657), 
bathing-pfacg, fishing place, and port, on the 
sands (scales) of the Bay of Biscay. The 
bathing is good. A large sardine trade. 
Batteries defend the small harbour. Hotel*. — 
De France; Grand Hotel do la Plage; Casino. 
He Dieu is about 12 leagues north-west.] 
From Nantes, the next station down the north 
side of the Loire is 

La Bourse, and then Cliantenay (H miles). 

Basse-Indre (3^ miles). Her« small frigates 
and steamers are built, the ong^es being made at 
the government factory, on the island of Indret, 
opposite, covered with tall chimneys. 

ConSron (3 miles) takes name from a village 
on the south bank, formerly the outer port to 
Kontes. Here Francis II. of Brittany died. 

8t. Btleime de Montluc (H miles). 
CordemaiB (3 miles). 

Savenay (6^ miles), a small sous-pr^ecture in 
department Loire-Inf^rieure, of 8,272 souls, where 
the Vend^ans were finally routed, December, 1798. 
Here the branch lines frcnn Brest to Bennes, tfid 
Redon, falls In. 

Donges (10| miles) and its salt marshes. Coach 
to Lorient, &c. (Route 42). 
[Opposite this station (4 miles) is 
FalmbOdUf, near the Loire's mouth, a 8ous-pr€> 
fecture and port of 2,180 souls, with a strong 
mole, 217 feet long, where large ships lie. It 
is not older than the last century. 

PonilC,12 miles south-west, a healthy watering. 

place with an old Chdteau, on Bourgneuf Bay, 

in the Bay of Biscay, opposite Notrmoutieri 

Island^ which had a Benedictine or black (noir) 

abbey. These and Macheeoul are now on the 

direct rail from Nantes (page 188). Botel^ 

De France.] 

MontOlr (4f miles). The last station is 

St. Nazaire (H miles), a busy port and trang- 

^tlantie packet station, with a population of 80,9S5» 

at the Loire*8 mouth, commanded by Fort Mlndln, 

on the oppoait« bank. The port comprises two 



fiAKD-fiOOk to ^RAKOie. 



191 



large Floating Stuini Atid Pocks (the largest at 
Fenhouet), for the Transatlantic Steam Conspany. 
The two Basins contain a space of about 82 acres, 
with 14 to 25 feet water ; there are two jetties up 
and down the stream, at the entrance, defended by 
a strong mole. Vessels enter and leave at high 
tide. As soon as the tide begins to ebb, the gates 
are shut, and not opened till it flows again to the 
level of the water retained in the basin. 

Hotel's. — Des Messageries ; Hotel Bely. 

Resident English Vice-Consvl. 

Two dolmens are found near St. Nazaire, the 
largest is near the station. Hence to 

St. Andr^dXauz (6 miles), Pomlcliet 

(8i miles), £sC0Ul>laC-la-Bdle (2| miles), for 

[Ou^rande (ik miles) and its salt works. Popu- 
lation, 7,020. Hotel.— Croix Verte. It is a 
good specimen of a mediaeval Breton town, 
with machicolated walls, old gable houses, 
and a Gothic church, 12th century. From Es- 
coublac to Le Poullgnen (if mile), Batz 
(2} miles) and its salt works, and Le Grolsio 
m mile), a bathing-place on the Atlantic, with 
a large stone spire church. Population, 8,418. 
At 11 miles off it is Le Four rock and lighthouse, 
98 feet high. Belle lie, &o., are in the distance.] 

ROXJXE ST- 
FolUers to Mlort, Rochefort, and Rocbelle. 

By rail, to Rochefort, 88 miles. Three trains 
daily, 4 to 54 hours. 

Poitiers station, as in Route 85. Then to 
St. Benoit, where our branch line turns ofiT to 

Conlomblers {1\ miles). To the north of this is 
Cboittellb, a place so noted for the cunning of 
its people, that ** finesse de Croutdle" is a pro- 
verbial expression in vogue. 

Lnsignan (lO^ miles), on the Vonne, in a plea- 
sant spot, in depai-tment Yienne. Castle, taken 
and razed by the Duke of Montpensier, 1574, which 
gave name to Ouy of Lwignan, the Crusader, 
who became King of Jerusalem and Cyprus, the 
latter now occupied by England. There are persons 
alive claiming to be descendants of the family. The 
family tombs are at Nicosia, the capital of Cj-prus. 
Population, 2,164. Correspondance for Sasxat 
(9 miles), where extensive Bomaa remains exipt. 



192 



BBADSHAW's ILLrSTSATED 



Sec.4.J 



mmtOei). FunV<WZ(4f miles). 

ttbKatZieilt(4i miles) Poim]AtioD,5,096u Old 
bonses and Komanesqne CrypC At 8| miles north 
Is CiLUUVftSiXBft. wbleh has maanffletnres of hats 
and tiles; ami stock fairs, which the Spanish 
dealers attend, to bay mnles, Jcc. See page lf9. 

I* Grtdie (< miles). At S| miles farther is 

BIORY (49 miles from Poitiers). 
PorcLATicai, 33,225. 

HoTBU.— Des EtrancCT*; de Frmee et des 
Poates; Raisin de Boulogne. 

Cil^ei^— Kational; desCokmnes. 

Here La Poisaonnierefrom AngCTsand Bressnire 
falls in. 

This ei^tal of the department Denx-S^rres (f or- 
marij of the NUrtaUe district, a part of Foitoa), 
on a hiU-slde Cfm the Serre-Xiortaise, has good 
p r wnffff^W, and is, on the whole, well laid oat. 
Motre DoMt, oat of its two eborehes, was boQt in 
the Gothic style by the English, 1491, with a spire 
24^t. high. The HOtel de VUU was the pabu» of 
Eleanor of Aqoitalne, and has an ancient horloge, 
or dock-tower. 

Bot the greatest cariosity is the Chattau^ of 
oiilch the dbif^M is now the maiaon d*arret, or 
prison. Madame de Maintenon's father was in con- 
Ancment here when she was bom, at the HoUl de 
Candle. Other objects of notice are—themos^ and 
scImm^ of design ; a Biblioth^ae of 20,000 Tolnmes 
(many nn) besides raloable MSS.; the theatre; 
pnblic baths; large banacks; hospital for 400; 
the Fontaine de VMer, an artesian well, 106 feet 
deep, which sapfdies the town; and the Passage 
da Com ro e r ee. a eorered way, in Bae Boyale. A 
pretty q>ot in the neighboufaood is the C^ambon 
brook; some standing stones are also to be seen. 

Mannfactares of chamcrts leather for gknres 
and breeches; flannel, and angeique* (a sweet- 
meat); and a trade in grain, wine, regetables 
(which are plentifol). Its fairs for cattle, horses, 
and goods in general were so famous, and at the 
same time so conrenient for match-making, that 
the ages of marriageable girls were reckoned by 
the nnmber they bad attended-~'*.fi3fo a ttuU de 
fifiret, phu seize one*"— {she Is so maoy fairs more 
''Tteen ywr* old). 



[A line (M mlles> rans from Xiott to SaJTec 
(page ];C) on the rail from Poitiers to Bor- 
deaax. The principal station is Mcus. a 
sons-prtfectore of old hoosea, in department 
Bcox-Serres (popolation, 2,8i8X on a hill. In 
a fertile qwt orer the B£roanc which dries in 
sommer. It has remains of old walla, a tower 
called MeU6mt, and the Smlpkmr Sfrimg of 
Fontadan, whidi is f oond osefnl in cataneons 
WooDcasaremannfaetnred; and it 
a trade in grain, wodi, trefoil aeed, 
cattle, and especially in aaaa mmd wmka, both 
of good breed. ilMer.— DesToyogena. Tkrce 
old Chateaux, Lczay, Marais, and Boiasec, nr« 
within a short distance.] 

Baa to Fontcnay, Ac. 

rFOOtenay-le-Oomte (» mOes nortb-west). a 
soas-|ff^ectare in department Yend^,pr«ttily 
placed on a bin orer the rirerTend^, in a 
plam where foar great roads meet. Popula- 
tion, 9,Kf. TheccAege, or high school, is 
well bnHt. The Fammtant, which gives name 
to the town, b rather elegant. JTotre Iktme 
Ckmrk Is a fine (}othic s tr uc tur e, with a we'l- 
proportSoiied spire of 259 feet, a good portal, a 
copy of Baphaers Transfiguration, and one of 
LefbTre*s best prodnetions, over the altar. 
Trade ia. grain, timber, and wine. BeieL — ^Dn 
Chapeau Rouge.] 

Froiiteiiay->Boluui(H miles). Pop., 1,929. 

EpanSM (2| miles) 

Maiu6 m miles), a little village, noted for its 
breed of asaes, and baring a good trade in spirits, 
wine, and linseed oil. The high road to Sochefort 
turns off here. St. G60ZSe8-dn-B(Xls (5 miles). 

Svrgires (2| m.) Near St. Jean d'Ang^y . 

[St. Jean d'Angdly (17 mUes south-east) a 
BOus-pr€f ecture of 7,297 souls; astaticm on a 
line from Taillebouiigr (see p. 194) to Kiort, in a 
pleasant part of the Boutcnme, bavbig- an 
old Benedictine abbey (now a school), and a 
large trade in Cognac brandy. Hotels. — De 
France; du Commerce.] 

ChamlMin (Sf miles); foUowed by Alf^refeu- 
lite (6| miles). Here is the Junction witli the 
Wamhu to RoehefcHrt, on the south (A.), and to 
IiR KoelioUe, <» tli« Mrth CB.), v f ollofwi. 



to Rochefort* 

9h8 next itatton to Algrefeullle Is 

Gir^ (2| miles). And, at 7i miUs further, is 

BOOBSFORT (89i miles from Paris). 
The ftation is near Porte de Charente. 
ttoTSLS.— Dn Grand Pacha; de la ttochelle. 

This is a Boas-pr^feetnre in department Charente 
Inf^rieare of 83,834 sonis, seat of a maritime 
prefect, and a Naval Dock-yard^ in a flat part of 
the Charente* 10 miles from the sea, at Bade des 
pasqnes, or Basque Roads. It wasfonnded, 1666, 
bjr Colbert, the minister of Louis XIV. The 
£ncrli8h (who formerly held all this country till the 
time of Charles VII.) attempted to capture Roche- 
fort, in 1757, but without success ; and it was here 
that Lord Cochrane (see below), burnt part of the 
French fleet. It is fortified and protected by forts 
on the river, up which large ships may come to the 
quays. The oldest streets are regularly laid out; 
. the houses are not more than two storeys high. A 
large Fountain stands in Grande Place, or Place 
Colbert, so named after the founder of the town. 
There is an extensive suburb rising up beyond the 
line of fortifications. 

The Chmxk of St. Louis, near the college, was 
rebnflt in 1885; Notre Dame is modern. There 
are also a HCttl dt Vitte museum, an obser- 
vatory, exchange, navigation school; foundling 
hospltol, cemetery; and the civil hospital, built by 
the intendant, Bigon, who greatly improved the 
town, 1688-1710. The Botankal Gardens of the 
•ehool of medicine are near the garden of the 
Haritime Prtfect. A small mercantile port lies 
outside Porte Martron. 

But its most important feature Is the Arsenal or 
Military Port (not open to strangers), the entrance 
to which is at Port du Solell. It includes the large 
ehantiers de construction (building slips) and 
floating basin; ateliers des fonderies, for cannon 
and steam-engines ; forges and sheet iron works ; 
ateliers d'ajustage, or fitting shops; shops for 
ej^stans, rudders, blocks; mast-houses, workshops, 
V^w m^ls, moved by Saubreuirs niachinery; 
eorderie, or rope house, 1,800 feet long^ salle 
itmut prmrmw}!^ imd fwi wb«rf| mfSMln d«i 



¥0 Fftli^eKi 



m 



^ 



vivres, or netuaUing Office, ah old building, In 
which are 40 ovens and machhiery for making 
biscuits; store-housCs, 1,300 feet long; the Com* 
mandant, or Prefect's hotel; three casernes, or 
barracks, for the sailors and marines; nnd a large 
now dock, in addition to two others. The Bagne, 
or convict depot, the inmates of which were 
sent off to Cayenne, 1852, is now turned into 
magazines. Outside the tow^n is the H6pital de la 
Marine, a large building, or mass of buildings, by 
Touffaire, with 800 beds in it, a museum of natural 
history and anatomy, a library of 6,000 volumes ; 
besides the public Library of 12,000. There is an 
Artesian well of hot mineral water, 904 yards deep. 
An avenue, called the Cours d*Ablois, leads up to it. 
Rochefort stands in a pestilential marsh, tvhich, 
however, has been so well drained, at least in and 
around the town, that deaths, which were 1 ui 11, 
have fallen to 1 in 26. 

There are some iron and copper works in the 
town, with an horlogerie, or clock factory; and a 
trade in wine, cognac brandy, grain, wood, fish, 
and salt. The Charente, though deep, is not navi- 
gable for large ships, except at high water ; while 
the largest have to wait for the equinoxes, to 
ascend or descend it. 

Rail direct to La Rocfaelle, passing St. Laurent- 
d6>la-Pr6e, from which there is a short branch, 
8} miles, to Fouras, a bathing place, in view of 
the islands of Oldron, Alx, and R^. It was near 
Aix that Napoleon, 5th July, 1815, gave himself up 
to Captain Maitland, in the Bellerophon, stationed 
off the coast to prevent his escape to America. 
Captain Dor€, afterwards a senator, had formed a 
plan for smuggling the fugitive away, but could 
not pass the British squadron. 

Between Aix and Ol^ron, in a spot guarded by 
two forts, vessels take shelter from the high Winds 
which blowfrom the Atlantic. It was here that Lord 
Cochrane (afterwards Dundonald) nearly destroyed 
tho French fleet, In April, 1S09. They had received 
notice of bis preparations, but conientcd themselves 
with di'awing cables and booms across the har- 
bour. He broke through these, bearing down 
upon the French with his frigates and fire-ships. 
A panic seized them ; they cut their cables and 
ran aground, so that next morning only two were 
afloat. Coplurano ligiu^led to Lord Ganbteri thi 



r^ 



toaanVkder-Ui-chiet, " Ualt of the fleet can destroy 
tlieeMmy. Elerenonehore." Qambier hesitated; 
■tid~ hence only five sMps were destroyed; but 
tee French were thoroughly disheartened. Lord 
Gambler was afterwards tried by cohrt-martml, 
and honourably acquitted. 

• Conveyances: By rail to La Bochelle (direct, 
1^ miles), to Royan, vid Pons, to Marennes, 
Salutes, Bordeaux, Ac; by steamer (up the Cha- 
rente) to Salutes; sUam to Royan and Bordeaux. 
[At 13 miles to the south-west Is 
Mabkkves, a sous-prefecture of 5,415 souls. In a 
marshy spot, noted for Its oysters, beans, and 
peas. Ho/rf.—Du Commerce. It has a trade In 
■alt, wine, and brandy; and is near the mouth 
of the Seudre, opposite the long and flat 
Jle d'Olirm^ the Roman Uliaris, which supplies 
good vegetables, brandy, and salt. Population, 
19;000. Hotel: De France. Under the Eng- 
lish rule, this island had a bishop, and the 
people were so enterprising that It gave name 
to the Ley cTOl&on, or laws of Ol^ron — a code 
of maritime laws, at one time adopted by all 
Europe, and ascribed, without authority, to 
Richard I. At 6 miles south-east of Marennes 
is the feudal Tour de Broti^-as old as the 6th 
or "th century. Corrcspondance to La Grfeve 
station. 
Koyan, a bathing place, at the Glronde's mouth 
(population 7,247), with the Lighthouse of 
Cordouan outside, 307 feet high. Hotel*^ 
D'Orleans; Lafleur— Hydropathic establish- 
ment. Royan was taken from the Hagnenots, 
by Louis Xin. Steamer to Bordeaux. From 
here the La Seudre Baa, 29 miles long,, runs* 

to Saujon, Goies, Qemozac, and Pons 

(page 196). At Saujon, a branch of 15 miles 

goes oft to Moraac, Etanles, La Trem- 
Uade, and La Gr^ve.] 

From Rochelle, the State Rail to Bordeaux, 125 
miles, through the Cognac country, passes 

Gbarente m miles), or Tonnay-Cbarente, 

on the north bank of the Cbarente (here crossed 
by a &u$petuion Bridge from rock to rock, under 
whieh large merchantmen may easily pass), which 
has an old chilteau, and a trade in wine and 
: Cdgnae Bram^i which iawq^ortecl hwM to £ngliin<l. 
VAnulation, 4,849. 






r — ' 



[Sec. 4. 



Hotels,— J)u Solell d'Or ; du Point du Jour. 

Resident English OenetU. 

St. SavlZii«a.(13.mlles), andTalIleb01U?9(4 
miles, near which Henry Jif. was beaten by 
Louis IX. in 1242), where the line from Niort And 
St. Jean d'Ang^y comes in, via Cbraildjean and 

Mazeray* . .. " 

Saintes (7J miles), a sous-prefecture of 18,^61 
souls, and a very old town, once the capital of the 
Santones, who gave their name to It, and to the 
province of Saintonge, which, as part of Guleniie, 
came to Henry II., of England, through his wife 
Eleanor. The Northmen took It, 850. For a few 
years, latterly, it was the chief town of the dept. 

Though pleasantly seated under a hill on the 
Charente, it consists mostly of small dirty streets 
and poor houses, with a good walk on Quai Blair. 
Among its Roman remains are, a plain Triumphal 
Arch (restored, and removed to a more convenient 
site), on the Roman way to Poitiers, built of 
large uncemented stones, and dedicated to Ger- 
manicus, Tiberius, Ac, by C. J. Rufus, a priest; 
also parts of a small AmphiCheatre, once about 70 
feet long, in a valley outside the town ; with tracies 
of a Circus near it. Fragments of baths have been 
found on the river, which is crossed by a suspen- 
sion bridge, at the Cours Royal, built 1841-2, to 
place of the old stone one. 

The JCathedral Church, with Its flne pinnacled 
steeple, was rebuilt, 1568 (on the site of Charl«> 
magrne's), except a good portal of the 14th century, 
which has several niched figures, Ac, in its roof. 
SL Eutrope's Churchy faasr a spire, built by Louis 
XI., and a Norman crypt, with a ith ceatury.tximh. 
To an abbey here,.Eieanor retired, after her teparm- 
tlonfropa Louis le Jcnne, h^ seeond husband. 

Notre Dame is of the 12th century. 

The Hdtel de YlUe was the Bishop's palace. 
There are also a Museum and labrary of 26,000 
volumes, and a district pepinifere, or nursery. 

Bernard de Palissp, who, after many trials and 
failures, made his discovery of enamelled pottery, 
was bom here, about 1563. 
Trade in Cognac brandy, wine, and cattle. 

Hotels. — Des Messageries ; de France. 

[At 6 miles is St. Ven^kand, which has a sprinjf 
running through, a rocky valley. At Douhet 

. Ch&teau is part of a Roman Aque^tet^ whi^ 
carried water to the arena at S^tPtes, 



•2kt 19l| miles to the wesi, near Sablon<ieatlx, ai'e 
some other Roman works— a stoite tower, called 
the Pile d<j Pyrelonge, lOH Uet high, and 19 
f«et ^qiiar^ at the base; with another tower 
or ttlrfet, called TurHs L&ngini, 13 feet high, 
in the middle of the Camp de C^sar. — ^At 
Prleurd des Ar^nes, 4^ miles south, near the 
Bordeaux road, are remains of a Roman villa. 
^ Vestiges of a temple at St. Saloine.] 

From Saintes, the State rail up the rlrcr goes by 
Oh&ttierft m miles), Beillant (1| miles), etc., to 
Oot^4c and AngOUltoie, for which see Route 35, 
• I'roni Saintes the line towards Bordeattx turns off 

lit tieiUanl, to 

Pons (9i' miles), in a pretty valley on the 
19elgne; having the tower of Its old Chdteau 
left, 83 feet htgh, which the Huguenots held 

, r 

iigalnst Louis XI n. It possessed three churches 
before the RevolutHm; and has remains of the 
13tb eentury ramparU. Here the Seudre Rail 
comes in from Royan, s^e preceding page. 
^ H08Bac4(t.-0e&lS (a| miles). 

Jonsae (6^ mites), a sous-prefecture (dept. 
Charente-Inf €ricui*e), with a fine old Castle over 
the Sefgne, used as the HCtel de Villc. Pop., 
3,210. Coach to Mibaubvau (91 miles), which has 
a church, built by the English qf the Black Princess 
day, and a ruined Ch&teau, once held by the family 
of Mirabeau. By road to Blaye, St. Andr^ de 
Cubzac (page 180), and Bordeaux. 

The State Rail proceeds to MO&teildrd, 8t. 
Hariens (branch of 14 miles to St. CltflfltOly 
-and Blaye, see page 180), OaVignaC— branch to 

Iforeenais, Coutras (page 178), and Uboimie 

(page 179)— and to BordeaiXZ. 

ItOXJa?B &7iB. 
To La BoolieUe. 
From AigrefiBllillei page 192, you come to 
La Jarrto (3| miles). And li miles further is 
LA BOCHSLLE (806 miles from Paris). 
. PoruLATlOH, 26,808. 
' Hotels. — De France ; Richelieu ; des fitrougers. 

American Consul here. 
- Capital of dcpar Uncut Charent* Inferieure (part 
of Poitou), scat of a bishop, and military division, 
Jfcc, and a port of the third class, on a small inlet 
o( the Bay of Biscay^ opposite Ilea de Ud and 
d^Oltfroii, eacldsln^ the sioidtx whiclv ar« eiitercd 



^ANto-ftocrtt M IfHintmi 



... . . . . ' ^-^ 

by the strait Oalled ^CtiU. d^Alitloche'. It \^ 
lotlged to Hehry tt. of tittgland, through his wif^ 
'fileatior ; Waii tal^n from the English, by Dugij^es^ 
clih, 1872; and became the head-quartejs.of t|i^ 
Huguenots from 1557 till 1629, when Richelie,v 
(Louis XIII. being present) took it after a memor- 
able itege of thirteen months, which brongbt down 
the population from 27,000 to 5,000*. He effected 
its capture by running a great dyJce across thp 
harbour. Which kept out the English ff^et sbnt t^ 
their assistance, under Buckidgham. This d^k^ is 
still seen at low water, between Point CoreHIe and 
fV>rt liouis, being nearly a mile iong, with k pas- 
sage in the middle for shipping. • * 

Tho Hftrlmr consists of d haten, deleYi^^d by 
two' towers; a careekiibg dock; alid a lieii^ kasin. 
At the eAtraiMSe to the port are the DoAJon de 
St.:Nioo1aft (1684) and the Teiur daUL Chalne 
(1476), Joined to the Tour de la Lanterfta qi445) 
by a wall. The fortifications were plawiad by 
Vanban. Of the ^re old gate^ one called Ptart de 
V Horloge is a cloek-tower :of the. 16tb century. 
Above Place du Chateau, where the old castle, of 
Vauclair stood. Is a fine prospect over the sea. 

At the H^a de vme, a building in tb« BenaML 
saDce style^ they show H<ia^ iV.'t ohaittbert^att4 
the chair and portrait of the mayolTf CMton^ ythk 
led the people bi the great siege. '- ■» 

Besides the Cathedral (which is of no- mark), and 
three or four Churches (St. Sauveur's Gothic fower, 
216 feet high, is of the fourteenth century^, 
l^useum in the old bishop's palace, Ac.', there 
are a bourse, chapel of St. Louis* hos|)ttal^ k 
public Library of 25,000 volumes, botanic garden 
and museums, the arsenal and salle d'armes, 
new abattoirs, good bathing estabHshinent, aifd 
a Protestant temple. It was off here (as AdmirWl 
de la Dravi^re relates In the Reme des Meux 
Matdes, \d06y that three Frcnck frigates, in 1799, 
came out to chase an English fi-igatCf wiiicb 
quietly waited their approach. The whole popula- 
tion of Ruchelle crowded on the walls to see and 
enjoy ^he promised Tic(ory\ when to tho^ bitter 
mortification, the French Adipiral, .doubting^ of 
success^ signalled to retreat. The three French- 
men wore tfattB obliged to come back wttbout fUf^*" 
prlzot ^rUich amuB6<^iierfetf by eHitsUilr thev 



^ 



V 



19S 



'BBADSHAW'S ILLtrSTRA^SO 



[Sec. 4. 



BMhaUZiAi: (a t^turfffttiye) was discorercd here 
by Seigneite, the chemist. Reaumur, the philo- 
iopher (whose division of the thermometer is in 
general use in France), Billaud-Varennes, the Con- 
Ventionist, President Dupatz, and Admiral Duperr^, 
wore natires. Some shipbuilding is carried on. 
A new port for large ships is projected at La Maxe 

ilA Bresse. 

Convtjfatices: By rail, to Rochefort direct (opened 
1S74); to La Roche-sur-Yon, Nantes, Ac. 

. l/l0 d$ Bd^ 3| miles from the nearest land, from 
which it is divided, on the north by the Pertuis 
Breton, is 19 miles long, and, in the middle, only 
li miles bread, being sandy throughout, but 
yielding good wine and salt. It is strengthened 
by forts, and a citadel at St. Martin (a church), 
which Buckingham tried to take, 1 638. At an 
old abbey here was found, in 1730, the tomb of 
Eudes, Duke of Aquitaine, and his wife ; he 
having a co^^^ croon on. The people (16,000) 
are mostly fishermen. Innt at St. Martin, at 
Ars-en-Rtf, and La Flotte. Extensive salt 
works and oyster culture.] 

From La Rochelle, on the State rail to La Roche- 
tur^Von, the first station is Domiddrre (4^ miles), 
then KanuuXlOi nUeft), a port in a marshy spot, 
eoaneeted with the sea by canals and the river 
B^vre. Population, 4,609, trading in com, wine, 
and a farinaceous, food, called minot. It stands in 
department Charente-Inf^rieure. 

After this comes Vellutre (lU miles), and 

Lucon (l^i miles), a bishopric and small town 
(population, 6,686), in a marshy spot, having a 
Gothic Catftedral^ with a spire of 312 feet. Its 
bishop* s Palace is restored. Richelieu Oollege is 
here. Trade in grain, wine, Ac. BbUl-^Dt la 
T6te d*Or. A canal runs down to the sea at Bale 
d'AiguiUon. 

La SoOhe-BUr-Toil, S8 miles further (see 
Route 86). Thence by rail to Sables d'Olonne, 
Nantes, Ac. 



Blols to Vendftme and Le Mans. 

By rail, 84 miles. 

*'^- '-^e Route 35. |tail to La Chapelle 



VenddmOf a station on the Paris and Tours 
direct line (see description In Route 35). 

From Venddme to Montoire is 11} miles. Before 
reaching the latter place, a small town is passed 
on the left, called LdB Bodies, where nearly all 
the dwellings are cut out of the rocks on the 
banks of the Loir. Remains of ramparts and 
church of the 12th century. 

Montoire-BOr-le-Loir, down the stream, was 
the old capital of Bas Venddmois. For a while it 
was called Kerltoent^ after a Breton Seigneur, who 
obtained possession ; another owner was Marshal 
Tallard, who laid out the Grande Place. The 
picturesque remains of St. OutrilU ChSUeau stand 
above the town; remains also of a church and 
priory, and of Lavardin Castle. Population, 3,820. 

Branch rail to Sarg^, 14| miles. 

T^rod ; here are two large barrows, one called 
Butte de Marcada, and galleries and grottos of 
the Celtic period, still Inhabited by a considerable 
part of the population. 

SOQg^; here is a Roman Camp, attributed to 
CsBsar, and, 8 miles off, Poiuonnihrt ChcUeau, where 
Rontard^ the poet, was bom, 1524. In Gatine 
forest, hard by, is the fountain of Miracon, and 
Rebauch^re Castle, on the Loire, all connected 
with the poet. 

Pont-de-Braye, where the Braye joins the 
Loir. Hence to La Chartre and Gh&teau-dn-Loir 
(page 197) for Le Mans, La Flgche, Ac. Up the 

Braye, past Bess^snr-Braye, Ac, to 

St. Calais, a sous-prdfecture in department 
Sarthe, a station on the Connerr^ rail (page 60) on 
theAnille; and has two Gothic churches, with a 
new palais de justice. Population, 3,618. Wool- 
lens are made. Rail to SabM, 76 miles (page CI), 
by Aubign^, LeLude, and La Flgche (page 197>. 
[Le Lude, a pretty place of 3,772 population, oki 
the Loir, in department Sarthe, having seroral 
old carved houses, and a fine ehdCeaik, half- 
Gothic, with enormous towers, eomoianding 
the river. They show the room in which 
Henry IV. slept, and Mongendre's statue of 
Hercules is in the park. Hotel, — Du Bceuf .] 

From St. Calais to Bonloire and Connerr^ 

(page 60), on the line from Paris to Le Mans. 
Heiice to St. Aignap and Mamers. From Connerr^ 
1^ mil98 to lie Mims (see Kouf o 15), 



Jloiite8 89and40.] 



HIND^BOOK TO VBANOB. 



m 



Tours to ClULteaa-da-Lolr and Le Kans. 

By rail (61 miles) in 3i hours. 
Leaving TOUTS, you go back to 
St.Plerr6-de8-Corp8,wherethe linetumsoff to 

Mettray (8 miles), the site of a penitentiary 
colony, or Reformatory, established in 1839. The 
buildings form an irregular square, irith a spire 
church at one side. Each house holds forty-three 
individuals, and includes a workshop, refectory, 
and bed-room, irith farm buildings around. Total 
number about 700. Its success has been most en- 
couraging, many thousands havfaig been tent out 
from here reclaimed and trained to industrious 
habits. M. de Metz, its excellent founder, died 
in the house, 1873. 

St. Antoine-du-RoCber m miles). 
Nettlll4-Pont-Plerre (4i miles). 

St Pateme (5i miles). To thcwest,10i miles, 
is CalrKAU LAVALLiksE on the Fare; above which 
rises an elegant seat, built by Louis XIV. for the 
Duchesse de la Yalli^re. 

DiSSay-SOUS-CourcillOIl (4i miles). Cross 
the Loire, to 

Cll&teail-dU*Lolr (3 miles), in department 
Sarthc, a well-built, hidustrious place, in a charm- 
ing part of the Loir, among vineyards of white 
wine. Its old Castle, perched high on the rocks, 
sustained a siege of seven years, in the eleventh 
century, against Geoffrey of Anjou, and was taken 
by Henry IV., In 1689. St. Guingalois' Gothic 
Ckureh has an ancient crypt of the tenth century, 
and some marble carvings. Several grottoes are 
in the cliffs. The bridge commands a fine view 
of the Loir. Population, 3,903. 

Good linens, cotton thread, Ac., are made, and it 
is noted for its chestnuts. A large trade in cattle, 
hemp, Hax, and poultry. Rail to St. Calais (p. 196), 

ffia Boss^sur-Braye. 

Vaas (Smiles). Church 18th century, fine tower. 
Aublgn^ (3 miles). Rail to La Fl^che, Vor- 
roii. KaUeome, La Suse, and Le Mans. 

[La Flidie, a station 21 miles fram Aubigntf, 
a sous-prefecture in department Sarthe, of 
10,249 souls, in the pretty valley of the Loir, 
and a well-built town, among woods and 
vineyards, called by its present name, because 
of ft spire (/Mit) pnt on St. Thomas* Roman- 



esque Churchy in the ISth century, by Count 
Helie, whose old CastU stands in the river. 
This spire, which was 85 feet high, was blown 
down by a hurricane, 1726, crushing a house 
in its fall. 
It has a public Library of 20,000 volumea, a good 
Hdtel de Yille, and hospital, but is most re- 
markable for the Jentita' CoVeffCy founded 1603, 
by Henry IV., in token of his Conversion to 
Romanism ; and af terwai^ls changed to a mili- 
tary school, in which Deteartet was educated. 
The Vend^ans took the town, 1708. Opposite 
it is the fine chAteau given by Henry IV. te 
his favourite, La Varonne. Muslins, Itneni, 
and gloves are made, and tht poultry is noted. 
£foteb.—T>9 rimage; des Quatre Vents.] 

Mayet (5 miles). Population, 3,418. Church 
of St Martin, 12th century. 

Eeonunoy <*i miles). Population, 8,688. 
Lalnn^-St-GervalS (H miles). At the latter, 
Chftteau du Plessis, built by Richelieu. 
Amage (H miles). And 6 miles further is 
IiO Mans station, as in Route 16. 



Angers to 8egr4, 01ifl.teaa-0ontler. Laval, 
Ch&teaubriant, and Rennes. 

Angers (Station), as in Route 36. 
Across the Mayenne and the Sarthe to Avrlll^ 
(4 miles); the church has ancient stained glass. 

Le Lion d' Angers (ll miles), a pretty place on 
the Oudon, where it Joins the Mayenne; old 
church, partly Romanesque. Population, 2,612. 

Segr4 (8| miles), a sous-prefecture (department 
Maine-et-Loire), on the Oudon, In a fine grain and 
pasture country, having part of an old Church and 
Castle, with megalithie remains near it, at 
Chatelais. Population, 3,661. 
[About 7i miles north, in department Mayenne, is 
the Gothic ch&teau of St. Ouen, built by Anne 
of Brittany, with some excellent carvings.] 
Direct line to Nantes, opened 1885, 62 miles. 
The stations are of no importance. 

At Segr^ the Paris lino runs to Chemaz^ ahd 

Chateau Gonthier. 

[Chemaz4, 0| miles from Segr^. Branch, 9| 

miles to Craon. Craon, noted for pigs and 

horieSi is in a pleasant part of the Oodoo. 



m 



•- 



C^^Oe, whkb tbePriDCC of Conti took, 1599, 
U TtfiMf^d by • Bodeni Mai. It fifM Bame 
to an ilhwtrknu /amdf in French bistory. 
PopnlatioD, 4.4M, 

, CaitW'lltetttg 0^ tUiUm 14 miles fmn 
S^p^), A »cm3»-|Mi^ectiir«, on the Xaj-auie, 
buriiiyg: A eharmiiy TifOir of the bastJi of that 
rirer (ron the fnonaaade. CAveta, an early 
Gothic, 11th ecBtiur. Part of a cactie, boflt 
hj F01U41MI of JUijoo, in the 11th centorjr, 
rroMin*. The Vendtfant took ft, 1799. There 

^ It a mineral water; linens, woollens, Ae^ are 
made. Popolation, 7,981. /TWc^.^Del Oaest; 
de rCorope, 

Batt 9» mflfs te l^MBl {see Boiate U).] 

/ ^OmUBQ^ 1.506. inhahiUnts, on the Ysrx^ 
with a dismsntled fortress of the Uth oentuy. 
CbAtMUllniAatC^O iniles,a station 39 miles from 
9li]ltes), in Loire-Inf^rleore, a Bons-pr^fectore 
'((6,623 inbabiUntB), so called after a Castle, bnilt 
lOU.py BrisDt, Count of Pentbievre, of which the 
donjon keep and two high towers arc left, besides 
the chapel and other old bnildings, and the ChtUiau 
Wtu/, in which Francis de Fotx was bled to death 
by his wife. This place Is noted for a sweetmeat 
called ccnurve (Tangiliqut. Sabots or wooden shoes 
are made. i7o<«{«.— 'DelaPostc; dnCiwamerce. 
I S#4 to Kantes, tid Nort; and viA Louiflfort, 
D«rT«J, llMMI^ne, 4c., to BaOon, for Vannes 
(^oge 900). 

tVori* * town of 6,U6 inhabiUnts, on the 

Erdre. fltearaor to Nantes, which \b 17i miles 

, from Kort by nM, About 10 miles south, on 

. the Kftntes road, is the Troiipist convent of 

\ la MeilUraU.} 

A line, A7 miles )ong, was opened 1985, from 
CbAteaubrlant to St. Nazairc {page 191), effecting 
ifUrect communication between that place and 
jParis, via Sobl^ and Le Maus. 

On the Bonnes rail the stations are 

B«tl«n» 3,973 inhabitants, near the Forest of 
Then. 

Janxe, population, 4,760. Five miles distant is 

[Essi, or Bouyrayibullt of red granite, on the 

Seiche, close to a monument, or AlL^e Ck>n- 

verte, called the Roche-aux-Fiu (Fairies' Rock), 

''HM»se4 of 42 stones (schist) 13 l^X tiigbi 



of wUch H «( fnisviifMa jtand in the 

groandj'and sapp o tt Slarger onea, as at 8t4Mier 
henge. They form aa oUong cf 63 feet hy 
12, lying north-west and sevth-east, and $nt 
in two by a line across ft.] 

CoKrs-XuPS has a rery <rfd charch. 

At 11 miles farther is 

Bennes, as in Bonte 18. 



Aasen to Brasnilrt, 

and SsUm dXlloBM, aad to Hlort. 
ttmnsli La V«Ddi6o. 

Aagon, see Boole 96. Thenee to la 9oll^ 
■OBllrtr o m Qiles), where the line turns off 
over the Loire to CbalomiOS (see page 161^ nt 
the Junction of the Lonet and the Layon. 

dieillill^ (9| miles), near the Yonne, in de- 
partment Maine-et-Loire. It has raaniifaetnrcs of 
handkerchiefs and linen, and two rery old 
churches. Population, 4,467. 

ChOlet (13| miles), or Chollet, on the Maine, 
baring an old Castle, and manufactures of hand- 
kerchiefs (called "Chollets") and **CtelM," or 
mixed fabrics. Population, 1G,891. Hota—J}^ 
I'Europe. It is a great market for stock. Aboa( 
60,000 are employed in the mills near here. Cor- 
respondance to Beaupr^au (see page 18)). 

From here the rail winds among the Gatine 
hills through La Vcnd<$e. Branch to ClissoA (pAofi 
190) for Nantes, via Errunes-Mortagne. 

[MortBIIie-Slir-S^VZe (9 mUes), in depart* 
ment Vendue, where the Yendeans were 
defeated, 1793. There are an old convent, 
and part of a Ca»Ue which Oliver CUaaon took 
from the Bnglish, 1378. It was the Soman 
iSe^ora, and is prettily placed on the rlrer 
Bevre-Nantaise. Les Hxxvmis (15 miles 
from Evrunes-Mortagne) has a minod Ghnrch^ 
and remains of fortifications bnilt by the 
English. From some Boman remains found 
here, some think it was the ancient Herbadilla, 
Population, 3,797. About 7 miles west of 
Mortagne are the picturesque ruins of Tiffau- 
ges Castle, with its machicolated walls and 
towers, spreading oyer a rocky beig^ht above 
the Sbvre, where the Crume joins. It was 
built by tt)« CQiwts of Thonsrs, U19, ««m9 to 



^atQ42.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FBANCE. 



idd 1 



the famous Big-bc-Bleyi (Marslml Gilles de 

* . RelJB, or." '/Blue Beard ^), arid'was dismantled 

by Richelieu. ' A colony of Theiphalian Goths 

settled here, 476, and gave name to" the town.] 

'^'Hatll^VTler (H miles), on the Maine. 

- tAsoEKTOX-LE-CHlTEAV (10 miles east), in de- 

partment Deux-S^Tres, was destroyed in the 
Vend^an war. Titide in wliite and red wines, 
andwooneas. AtlSfmUeseastofUisThouars 
(see Route 86).] 

^ 'Ch4iilldn-81ir-S^7re (6i miles), on«e fortified, 
but ruined in the wars. 

' SrewullB (l^ miles), on a bill orer the Ar- 
genton,i8A small sous-prtf eeture of 4, 738 populatloii, 
and had some goodmahufactiires of cloth till the 
Venddan war at tiie Eerolution, which left but 
me hotue stknding, and an old granite CfturcA, with 
d tower of 360 feet. It makes handkerchiefs and 
woollens. Hotel — De France. 

- The line from Tours runs in here and is con- 
tinued to La Roche-sur-Yon and Sables d*01onne. 

From Brcssuire It passes Cerl^y (9J miles); 
^t." MesmUl (3f milesj; PouzailgeS (4i miles), 
with a population of 3,408, under the Gatine Hills; 
Chava^^e-leS-BedoUZ (5^ miles), or Chavagne- 
MoQsetrig; COiantOimay (^mlles), with a popn- 
Ijition of 4,807; thenee by Boiunezean (6^ miles) 

(Old La ObaKe^le-Yloomte {H miles), to La 
Bochennir^Yon (8 miles); theuce to Lea Salfles 

d'Olonne, as in Route 36, and La Rochelle, Roche- 
fort, as In Route 37. 

MoxLCoutant (lo miles), followed by Fayino- 
reau-Pn^-de-S^vreB (14| mUes), and Cou- 

longeB (7 1 miles). Then 

Benet (7J miles) ; from which it is ej miles to 
FbKTCTXT-EK'CoHTB, as doscrfbed In Route 87. 
. Niort (8} miles), in the same Route, on the line 
from Poitiers to Rochelle. 

A line from Saumur (page 185) to Niort passes 
through Airvault, Parthenay, and Champdeniers 
(page 192). 

Alrvaillt (11 miles north-north-east of Par- 
thenay). An old Castle, and the Gothic C?mrch 
Cwith a spire on four pillars) of a convent destroyed 
Itt the religious wars. Secokdignt (8i miles west- 
south-west), up the Thouet, has remains of Its old 



Parthenay (19} miles), on a slope of the Thouetl 
a sous-prefecture of 7,2d7 papulation, in departmiclDt 
Deux-Sfevres <part of Vendee), In a country of 
hills, valleys, lakes, and forests. It was Strongly^ 
fort i God, and has suffered in the former English 
and religious wars, as well as in the Yend&in war»/ 
of the first and later Revolutions (chiefly in 179$ 
and 1883). Parts of an old Ca$tU of the ISth- 
centmy, flanked with fire or six towers, are seon ;■ 
also St. John's Churchy of the 9th century; and 
the clock tower; 74 feet high, once part of the 
prison. Coarse woollens are made. 

^o/«/.— Tranchant. 



NautoB to VaimeB, Camao, Lorlent, 
Qulmper, and Brest. 

By rail, lf^6 miles. 

Nantes Station, as in Route 36. Thence to 
Savenay, by rail, 24 miles, in the same Route. 
The next place is 

PontClUtteau (Sf miles), on a small stream 
navigable to St. Nazaire, on the Loire. Popula- 
tion, 4,632. Coach to La Roche-Bemard« 12 miles. 

Rail to St. Nazaire, vid Chftteaubrlant, see page 
198. 

[La Rochs-Beknard (12 miles), in department 
Bforbihan, a small port on the Yilaine (19 kil. 
from the sea), whieh is crossed by a suspension 
bridge, 682 feet long, 106 above water. 

About 7J miles to the south-west, on the road to 
Croisic, Is Herbignac, near the ruined Chdteau 
of Beurorut, with its round towers, Ac. Further 
on, near Croisic, Is Piriae^ a small granite-buflt 
bathing-place, opposite Belle He.] 

St. OlldaS dee BOlB (6i mllcs). Abbey Church 
of the 13th cejitury. 

Bedon (lUniiles), up the Vllaine, where the 
Oust joins; a sons-prefecture (in department Illo- 
et-Vilaine), of 6,929 souls, and a small port, having 
a good trade in slate, grain, salt, beer, honey, 
and coarse woollens. Its walls were pulled down,. 
1588. Only the Tower is left of St. Sauveur's 
Gothic church, which belonged to the abbey here. 
The clock-tower (horioge) is worth notice ; as well 
as Beaumont ChdtetfU^ ^M9^1l?^ll4^80IR$ Micient 
towers, 



r 



soo 



BBAD8HAW 8 ILLU8TBATBD 



[Sec. 4; 



JETolfti.— DeBretagne; duLiond'Or. Bv^9i, 
Rail to Ronnoa, ^., along the Yilalne. (S«e 
Boato Iff.) 

Our route turns round to the -vrest for Ma- 
laiuiao (10^ miles). Corre.4pondance for Roche- 
fort-en-Terre, near the lande de Lanvaux^ abound- 
ing in megallthic remains. Next Qnestembert 
(7^ miles). Rail to Ploennel and La Brohini^re. 
PPlOermelt on the Due (near the canal from 
Nnntes to Brest), which forms a fine lake and 
cascade close by. At the old Chutxh of the 
16th century are some stained windows, and 
effigies, in armour, of John II. and III. of 
Brittany. TlAore are also dome remarkable, 
partly grotesque, sculptures. Another church 
is at the Ursuline convent. Population, 5,913. 
About 8 miles from Ploermel is La Roclte aux 
Fieiy a fine dolmen, which should be visited. 
}IottU.—YVL%^\ des Voyageurs; du Lion d'Or. 
Diligence, &c., to Josselin, Louddac, Ac. 

After passing the Obelisque du Trente, at Mi- Voye, 
where, according to a rather doubtful story, 80 
Bretons beat 80 English, in 1351, you come (12 
kil. west of Ploermel) to Jotulin CastU^ the 
fine Gothic seat of the Dukes of Rohan, above 
the Oust, including the room in which Oliver 
de Clisson (who rebuilt it after it had been 
razed by Henry II.) died in 1407. The device 
of the present owners (who sprung from Rohan, 
to the north of this), " a plus^ a moin*^*'' is 
carved in the tracery of the balustrades. 
The line is continued, in the direction of Dinan, 

to La Brobini^re ; see Route 15, page 66.] 
El76n (8i miles), noted for its curious machico- 
lated Tower^ where the Duke of Brittany kept the 
JSarl of Richmond (Henry VII.) a prisoner, when 
wrecked here, after the battle of Tewkesbury. It 
was built, 12 >6, by a crusader, Eudon de Malestroit, 
and is eight-sided, each side being 80 to 88 feet 
long, and 4 to 15 feet thick; the height, in five 
stages, is 128 feet. Another machicolatcd 7\>ioer, 
but round, stands near it, and is still older. Many 
standing stones here. 
At 6J miles further is 

YAHNES. 

jfotefs.—Du Dauph|n; de ^'rance; du Commerce. 

'^ ' ' '21,504. Chief town of department 

^*f 1®. ^ n»lj«e tr9m lb* |a^n fir 



Out/of MorMhOHt to which only small eraf t come. 
It was the old capital of the Veneti^ and was Joined 
to France, 1532. 

It is a dull and aacieat-looklngplaoe, With narrow 
streets. Five of Its six Gates are left ; the Jetty and 
la Garenne are the chief promenodea. St. Pierre 
CcUhedral, I2th to 15th century, has a ndw spire 
(since 1824), a high roof, two good fignres of saints 
in wood, and the tombs of St. Vincent Fecrier 
and Bishop Bertin. Notice the chapel of the 
College. 

Cannes convent Is now the bishop's palaca; tha 
former one, used as the Prtteot's ffdtel, was rebuilt 
on the site of the Ch&tean of La Motte. The salle 
de spectacle was the hall where the States of Brit- 
tany met for about seventy years. An ancient* 
tower, called Tow du Cotm^abU, was part of. 
Hermine castle, where Jean IV. caught Oliver 
de Clisson, the Constable, and made him pay a 
heavy sum for his release. It contains a Musemn 
(the finest collection of its kind in Europe) of 
interesting Prehistoric, Celtic, and some Roman 
remains found in the neighbourhood. Another 
seat was called the Castle of Plaisance. 

Two heads of ** Vannes et sa femme ** (Vannes 
and his wife) are as much venerated as Oog and 
Magog elsewhere. There is a Library of 8,000 
volumes; besides hospices and old convents. 

Trade in grain, honey, beer, cider, eaux> de-vie, 
wine, cottons, lace, Ac. The sardine fisliery has 
declined to one-fourth its former value. The de- 
partment now produces preserved vegetables 
largely. 

[At 8 miles south-east of Vannes, towards the sea, 
is Sabzkau, where Le Sage^ the author of *' GU 
Bloij^'' was bom, in 1663. There are many 
standing stones, besides the huge tumulus of 
Grand-Mont, or Butte de 7\tfniae ; and beyond 

. it, on the sands, are remains of Rkup», or St. 
Gildas* Abbey, of which Ab^lard was prior. 
Bathing here in summer.] 

St. Anne d'Anray (lO miles), a place of pil. 
grimagc, having the Saint's figure over the station. 
The handson^e new Chutxh of St. Anne, begun 
1866, in the Renaissance style, contains her 
widely c«l«bra^4 image, which, ^Ti^^f bm 



Boate 42] 



aAHB-BOOX TO FBAKCB. 



201 



bnrfed for nitM eontarles, was pointed out by 
henolf to • poor peaiant, In 162S. At the ehnreh 
is a Sancta Scala for pilgrims, who on fdte days 
number A*om 30,000 to 80,€00, and ascend it on 
tlteir knees. Near it is a holy well, reputed for 
miraculonreures. • 

ir»M«.—Du Lion d'Or; de France. 

Anray m mlle), the best station for the Camac 
Stones, and a town of 6,336 souls. Auray, prettily 
situated on the A.uray, with a fine view from the 
Belvedere, or Obsenratory, built on the site of the 
old Castle. It is noted for the BattU of 1364, 
when Charles de Blots was killed, and his dukedom 
came to his opponent, John de Montfort. St. 
Bsprit, a Romanesque ehwrh, is large, and of the 
13th century. At the Chartreuse Convent, now a 
deaf and dumb school, is the Expiatory chapel, 
to tbb French royalists who fell in the Qniberon 
expedition (see below). Conveyances may be got 
for the andent monuments at Camac, around the 
wild gulf of Morbihan. 

Hotels.— Dvi Pavilion; daLl6nd*0r; dolaPoste. 

[From Auray a Branch Rail to PontlTy passes 
Baud (151 miles), population 4,768, with a lead 
mine and very old chapel near a fountain. 
Near it, at Quinipily chAtcau, intiffranitejlffure 
of a woman, in the Egyptian style, of supposed 
Roman origin, called the Venus of Quinipily, 
set up over a fountain. Further on is 

PontiTy (18 miles), a sous-prefecture and old 
place, including a New Town, begun by Bona- 
parte, who called it NapoUon-Ville. Popula- 
lation, 9,175. Parts of the old walls, and the 
ehdttau at the Dukes of Rohan are left. 
Hotels. > Orosset ; dos Voyageurs. The Nantes 
and Brest canal passes here; linen Is made. 
Hence the line is continued past Loud^ac, 

Uiel, Qnlntlji, Ac, to st; Brieuc (see 

page 66). 
Bail from Auray to Qulberon, 17 miles, vid 

Ftomel, Floubamel-Oaniae. &o. 

Camac, or Kamac (Hotel des Voyageurs), 
the finest megalithic monument in France, 
consisting of about *2,800 blocks of granite, 4 to 
19 feet high, arranged with tolerable regu- 
larity in e/er«nrow8, running east and west, the 
length being 1,260 yards, and another align- 
lIBent having nine rows, lopgihi 1.870 yards- 



The village of Maenac is in the middle and 
they extend towards St. Barbe and Erdevan. 
St. Michers Chapel, on a mound 80 feet high 
overlooksthe whole. Some are like kistvaens; 
others like those at Stonehenge. For a full 
description of these and the prehistoric remains 
found in the tumulus of St. Michel, see Brad- 
show's Hand-Book to Brittany. Museum at the 
Mairle. At Loomaxlaker (7^ miles east- 
south-east), or "Virgin Mary's Town," at 
the mouth of the Gulf of Morbihan, which is 
supposed to be the Roman Dariorbieum^ there 
are traces of a circus and Roman way, with a 
great dolmen (or kistvaen), called the Te^le de 
Cisar^ and a colossal menhir (upright stone) on 
the ground, as much as 67 feet long. Soma 
others are inscribed with unknown characters. 
Others are at Sarzeau, Ploermel, and Erdevan 
(north-west of Camac); for which, and the 
Roman Villa at BossexinO, see Bradshaw's 
Hand-Book to Brittany. There is an oyster 
culture near Carnac, in the river Crach. 

QnllMroil, on a long, sandy presgu^ile, or pen- 
insula, off which Hawke defeated the French 
fleet, 1759. Here, CsQSar's fleet fought the 
Veneti, and here in 1705, a descent^ under British 
protection, was made by the French royalists, 
who were defeated, and shot by the republican 
leaders. Population, 3,884. At 8 miles south- 
west is 

Bellb Ilb, or Betteisle, one of the largest French 
islands, having at St. Palais an old Chdteau of 
its marquises. It belonged to Quimperld abbey 
in the 10th century; and was held by the Eng. 
lish, 1761-8. The lighthouse Is 276 feet high. 
The Lorient-Nantes steamers call here. The 
islands of Houat and Haedic are near Belleisle, 
which, like the rest of the chain, appears to 
have been formed by the continual action of 
the Atlantic on this rocky and sandy coast.] 

Land^vant (Ci miles), at the head of a creek 
from the sea, and 11^ miles from Port Louis 
(page 202), near some grottoes. 

H^xmebont (8 miles)— Hotel de France— where 
five or six roads meet, is a pretty little port near 
the Blavet's mouth, up which the English sailed 
to support the Countess of Montfort, when sh« 
wfts I)gsi9fe4 ip her CaetU (of which a few re«-'— " 



are left) by Charley de Blpis, 1842. It has a 
Gothic Church of the 14th century; a suspension 
1>ridge (instead of its ancient bridge) ; and parts 
dt old Trails and an abbey. Mineral springs near. 
The direct road toQuimperl<$ is 10 infles nearer than 
by Lorient. Population, 6,972. 

' At 5^ miles from Henneboot is 

LORISMT (a Bt^fetJ. 
, A- sous-prefecture, seat of a maritime }«r^ect, 
fortress of the third class, and Naval port in the 
fmall guif of St. LoaiSi at the junction of the 
Blaret and Bcorff (3 miles from the Bay of Biseay), 
having a Dockyard^ and population of 42,116. It 
vras A little fishing village whan given (1<6€) to 
the French ^ost India Company, from whom it re- 
ceived its n:tme, L'Orient^ or the East. Upon their 
dissoluiion, the crown took it back, 1764. The 
English had attamptari Its capture, in 1746,' but 
were driven off, with a loss of 900 men, by the 
Count of Tinteniac. A chapel in Rue do la Foste 
ia pointed out, to this day, with an English tfullet 
lodged in the front of it. 

^ . The town is well built, the best houses beSng'on 
the Quai, and in Place Royale ; but most of them 
are painted white and black, to imitate granite. 
In the market place is a granite pillar to Binon, a 
brave officer, who being placed on board a prize 
with his small crew was overpowered by ten times 
their number. Seeing that all was lost, he desired 
his men to jump overboard ; then went below and 
bjcw up the whole of his assailants, seventy in 
i^umber. A signal Tower (180 feet high), on a hill 
to the south, where the observatory stands, com- 
mands the best view of the town and Dockyard, 
iha establishments of which (not shown) include 
the prefect's hotel, Salle d'Armcs, the mast-house, 
building-slips for frigates and steamers, foundries, 
new engine shops, block-factory (poullerie), a laza- 
]:etto (on lie St. Michel below), and the military and 
Seamen's barracks; the latter being the old buildings 
of the Company, where Law, the projector of the 
Stississippi scheme, lived. 

There is a small theatre in Place la BOve ; and 
a parish church, begun on so large a plan that part 
#a8 pulled down for stone to finish the rest. The 
H6tel dc Vllle is good. 

[ The commercial port is entered by a lock on the 
north of tbv toirp. -4 suspewsiop brld|ei ncarljr 



[f^a^fi 



1,160 feet long, crosaes.ibe BcarflMl^Panf ISw:^ 
to the suburb of ^^rantreeh. Trade in w«ji; 
honey, beer, and sardines (pilchards), bpt thechlef 
dependence of cjie town is on the dockyard. 
Hotels. — Do France; de Bretagne-. 
Resident English Constif. - ; 

Conveyetnces : By rail to Rennes, Brest, Ktitica, 
Morlaix, Auray, &c.; by steamer to Naiiti», 
touching at some of the islands; to Belle-Ile (pog« 
201), and to Port Louis, from the quay, 
[At 2i miles south, on the olherftdeof thoSeorl^ 
near the mouth, U . , . . , 

Port Loois. built ood fortified by ]^uis.2II^*r 
and called Porte Libert^ in the RevolutioiK 
Here Napoleon III. Bas imprisoned, after bif 
unsuccessful attempt at Stra ssburg. 
About 6 miles south-west of this is ., , 

He de Oroix, which has several caves and. sUnd# 
ing stones, and is divided from the nminlttttd 
. by the Courreaux de Groix, one of the h^ad* 
quortcrs of the fishery, employing mangr 
hundred boats in the season. Large c(iu;3[cr 
eel, <fcc., are caught. The Lighthouse on the 
north-west coriieris 194 feet high.' 
4f miles east is Plouhinec, with some remnrkable 

mcgalithtc remains.] 
Qnimperl^ (12| miles), a sous-prdfecture, in 
department FInistcrre, of 8,049 souls, in' a pretty 
hollow on the Elld, where the Isol6 joins it and 
makes a little port, at the quay. The buk^sj>f 
Brittany had a scat here, called Carnoct. 8t. 
Michel's Gothic Church stands on a hill above, with 
two convents; forming a very picturesque group. 
The old Benedictine convent Is now the ifairity 
and has the ancient restored Romanesque ch-Arch 
of dffe. CV'oiz behind it. //ofrf.— Racine. ' 

Bannalec iH miles), near the Etang de ^o«- 
porden. 

Rosporden (7 miles), on the Aren. 

[A short line, 9 miles, to Concarneac, . a 
thriving port on the bay of La Foret, on* a 
fortified point or island ; and another great 
seat of the Sardine fishery ; having an aquti- 
rium and oyster park. It was taken by 
Duguesclin, 1373, and by the Leaguers in 1570. 
The harbour is rocky. /ToW.— Des Voyageur a. 
Population, 6,991.] 

At 12* mile? f^^rtl^er t? 



Boute 42.1 

QUiMFBB, or Qnlmper CoroijLtliL 

' HOTKX4S. — De l*Epfe? de Prance ; de Provence. 
9kffet ftt station. 

Population, 17,406. Chief town of department 
Finistfere, seat of a bishopric, Ac, on a pleasant 
hill-side, where the Odet and Benaudet meet, 
at the head of a pretty creek, 9i miles from the 
sea. It was the capital of part of CotjumailUs, or 
Ba8-Brctag:ne, and wasravagod by Charles de Blois, 
13i5. Ships of 300 tons may eome up to a quay, 
Jlued with Gothic-Jooking houses. The old town 
Is enclosed by ancient walls and towers ; a good 
^int of view is the platform on the hill behind 
tile Priftcture, some huidrod feet high, whore A 
promenade is laid out. 

, The CaihtAHil of St. Cormiin, one of the test in 
Brittany, waa beinui 12<9, bat finished 200 years 
after. I-ength, 822 feet; width. Ifi2 feet. It has 
a &n9port€U (oiioe deoorated by stataes>, between 
iarge battlemented towors with two spires, and 
long narrow windows In them. The entrance, in 
Rue Ste. Catherine, has escutcheons of Breton 
families. 

Other buildings arc the church of- Locmarla, 
partly 11th century, the large Jesuits' college, palais 
de justice, the public baths, barracks, and military 
hospital, bibliotfa^que, aiid salie do spectacle. There 
are also a school of narigation, and a pcpinifere or 
district nursery; and the neighbourhood offers 
■everai good points of view. Pottery is made, and 
small vessels are built. Good trout fishing. Trade 
in spirits, wax, honey, butter, coarse linen, Ac. 

[Rail, 18 miles, to the small port of Pont 
PAbb^ ; 7 mllcB beyond which, the whole 
district beingcovered -with megalithic remains 
of unusual interest (which have yielded many 
relics of Romnn and prehistoric times), is 

Penhabch, near the coast of the Bay of 
Audieme, as wild and stormy as the Land's 
End; having a Lighthouse, 185 feet high, 
and a fringe of granite rocks, one of which, 
the Torche, is cut out by a narrow channel 
called Saute du Moine (the Monk's Leap), 
where the sea is most furious. 

Short rail, 15 miles, from Quimper through 
Guenga^ to I>0uani0&6X, « fishing place on 
iU^ Bay of tliat Qfvme, tbe chief s^^i of ^he 



HlNI>r9QQK TO FBAVCB, 



2O0 



^ 



sardine fishing, employing twelve hundred 
boats. Population, 10,021. Kote7».—Du 'Com- 
merce; dfisVoyageurs; deBrctagne. Thefish, 
put in baskets of 200 each, are washed, beaded, 
placed in ovens a few minutes; then picked in 
tin boxes full of sweet oil, which are soldered 
down, plunged in boiling water for an hour, 
and finally polished for market. All is done 
by women labour. Lately the supply has fallen 
off. Beyond it ( 1 8J miles) is Plogoff, on the Bee 
du Rat (point of the Race), which has a Lights, 
259feet high, on thecliffs, which are continunlly 
undermhicd by the seai One terrible gulf is 
called the Bate dts Trepasse'ty or Dcadmcn's 
Bay. The desolate lie de Sein, on which a 
few hardy fishermenlive, is Gmilcsoff; itsLlg-ht 
is 148 feet high. It wason thisdismal coast that 
LordExmooth, when in the ''Indefatigable," 
1799, chased the *'DroitsderHomme'* ashtuti, 
with 1,500 men on board. She was one of 
Hoebe's fleet, which invaded Ireland.] 
C^lAteanUn (18f miles), (Buffet) a sous-prdf. 
of 3,677 souls, in the pretty valley of the Aulne 
(which runs down to Brest Road), has an old 
chateau^ and some well-woodcd points of view 
around. Salmon are caught. Small craft come up 
to the town, but the Brest steamer stops at Port 
de Launay, 2) miles below. Hotel. — Grande Mjxison. 
At £lvan Chapel, near the town, is an inter- 
mitting spring, which rises and falls with the tide 
in the sea. At Tr^castel, near a dolmen or. 
cromlech, is InnU Avallon (Apple Island), said to 
be the last home of Arthur; there are no trcps of 
apples now. 
[At 15 miles cast of it, up the Aulne, is ChAtb av- 
neuf-du-Faou, a pretty little village among 
windmills. 
Correspondance from Quimper to CtO^BlX., a 
very old village, with a church of the 6th cen- 
tury. There is a statue to Corret, the republican 
soldier, called La Tour d'Auvergne, who was 
bom here. He refused promotion, preferring' 
to be called the " first grenadier of France" 
to being sous-officer. — About 12J miles north- 
east, at Logueffret, are the beautiful Falls of 
St. Ilerbot^ pouring over a granite rock, more 
than 200 feet down. Between H and 12 miles 
further are the sometimo valuable 1ead-»orkr 

of ffueigo^t m^ fovJkw<«fi, tbe former «»0 



r 



204 



BHADSHA.W 8 ILLUSTR1T£I> 



feet deep) opened for three centuries; the 

latter (where the ore was smelted), since 1741. 

In 1892, Carhaix was connected with Mor- 

lalx (pag« 67) by rail through HnelgoSt. 

Qulxnerch (Sf miles) ; from which it is 4^ miles 

to Lb Faou, a little place at the bottom of a 

creek in the Brest Roads, with curious old carved 

timber houses. The green Kersanton stone (like 

the serpentine found at the Lizard) is worked. 

Passing HaXLVec (7i miles), &c., you come to 

Landemeau (ni miles), on the line to Brest, 

which is 11 miles west. MorlaU is 15 miles east 
(see Route 15). 



SUB-SECTION B. - ROUTES TO THE CENTRE 
OF FRANCE, VJA THE PERIGUEUX AND 
CLERMONT-FERRAND LINES. 



Paris to Orleans, Vienon, Cli&teaiiroax, 

Llmoffes, P^rlgueuz, Agen, Caliors» 

Montauban, and Tonlouse. 

Paris to Orleans 75 miles ; Orleans to Vierzon 
and Limoges 174 miles, in 7 to 8^ hours. Through 
fast trains from Paris to Toulouse, 470 miles, in 
\Z\ to 14 hours. These run from Limoges by 
Userche and Montauban. 

To Orleans, as in Route 35. 

After crossing the Loire by a viaduct of 1,312 
feet on five arches of 79 feet span, the rail pnsscs 

Las Aubrals to St. Cyr-en-Val (7} miles); 

passing, at a little distance, St. Olivet, on a 
hill, at the bridge on the Loiret, where Francois, 
Duke of Guise, was assassinated by Poltrot 
de M^r^, 1568. Clovis founded a monastery 
here. A little to the east are St. Denis-en-Val^ 
where the best Orl^ns wine is produced ; and the 
tfhdteau de la Source, where Bolingbroke lived, 1719, 
In his exile, when he married Madame de Main- 
tenon's niece. Voltaire came here to read to him 
his Ilenriade. This seat takes name from the 
source of the IMret, bubbling up here out of the 
limestone in a basin 47 feet across, called the 
Bouillon; the Abtmc is another head. It runs clenr, 
and full of fish, six miles to the Loire. The water 
of the latter river, by filtering through the soil, is 
inpposed to be thp secret source of (he Lpiret, 
^hough small, givos name to the deptirtWSPt- 



[Sec 4. 

La Fert^St. AuMn (7i miles), on the Cosson, 
near a Roman camp, in the barren plain of La 
Sologne, close to the Chdteau of Prince d*£ssling 
(Marshal Massena*s son), one part being Gothic of 
the 13th century, but most of it from Mansart^s 
designs. Marshal Lowendal was a former resident. 
To the west is La Ferte BeauhamaiA, where 
Josephine resided before she married Bonaparte. 

La Mothe Beuvron (lO miles), on the Beuvron, 
a branch of the Loire, In department Loir-et-Cher, 
6 miles west, on a rock, is the fine old Chdteau of 
Chaumont, with machlcolated towers. 

Nonan-le-Fozelier (4 miles), on a branch of 
the Beuvron. 
[About 25 miles east-south-east is Aubigkt, on the 
N^rc, giveii by Charles YIL, in 1435, to John 
Stuart, constable of Scotland, and held by his 
descendants against the League. Here, in a 
quiet valley, are an old Church and Castle ; 
with 2,600 people, called English, but really 
of Scottish blood.] 

Balbrls (7| miles), a spot on the Sauldre, where 
many Roman antiquities have been found. Popu- 
lation, 2,249. All this part is open heath, marked 
by clumps of pines, and by shallow lakes in wet 
weather. 

Tlieillay, or TheUlay-le-PaWeux (7| miles); 
thence to the long and deep cutting of Alouette, 
and the tunnel of the same name, 4,050 feet long^, 
which opens on a pleasanter country than the 
Solognc. Next comes the forest of Vierzon, 
somewhat exceeding 12,000 acres in extent, 
followed by Vierzon itself. 

" Vinio villa viz«iM aliande paaca rsqairena 
Sllvis omsta, vlneis, prata deeorata,* 

as an inscription on the church door boasts; but 
it shines only by contrast with the very tame 
neighbourhood around it. 

Vierzon, or Vierzon-Ville (6| miles), a hufjret^ 
where the branch rail to Bourges and Nevers turns 
off (see Route 45), is in the department of Cher, 
among fertile prairies (meadows), on the Canal du 
Berri, and the Cher, where the Y^vre joins It. It 
is mentioned in tiic old romance of the Knights of 
the Round Table as having givin birth to the 
famous Lancelot of the Lake; and, in 1195, when 
held by tiie Counts de Blois, was destroyed by 
Richard Coeur de Lion, for refusing to acknowledge 



^U 48.J 



hand-book to s'ltAire^* 



?05 1 



him aa suzerain, tho Black Fritiee.held it for a 
tew years ; at length It cam6 to the Dukes of Berri 
and the crown. Its old castle stood here till lately, 
population, 10,559. Trade in cloth, wine, iron 
(made at Les Yorges), and pottery. 

BoUU. — ^Des Messageries ; du Boeuf . 

Here the rail from Tours comes in vid St. Algnan 
and YiUofranche-sur-Cher (see page 178). 

ViUaftelKdie-BUr-Cher, from which there is 
a Branch Rail to Romorantin and Blois (page 
168). 

[RoxnorftntiXL, a sous-prefecture of 7,812 popu- 
lation (who make cloth, &c.), on the Sauldre, 
where the Morantin joins, in the sandy Sologue 
district. It grew out of a ch&teau of the 
Seigneurs of Lauthcny, which came to Francis 
I., whose wife, Claude, was bom here. Just 
before the battle of Poitiers (1316) the Black 
Prince besieged it, and, as Froissart relates, 
made use of artillery for the first time. It is 
further noted for the Edit de Romorantin^ issued 
by the wise Chancellor THopital, which sayed 
France from the Inquisition. Pajon, a 
Protestant divine, was also a native. Hotels. — 
Du Lion d'Or ; d'Angleterre.] 

To Bourges. Ac, see page 214. Coaches to 
Vatan and Gra9ay, see below. 

Across the Y^vre, Canal du Berrl, and Cher to 

Ch^ry (9i miles), on the Amon. About 5 miles 
west is Massay, where was a Benedictine abbey. 

Renilly (2f miles), a pretty spot on the Amon. 

{At 12^ miles to the west, in a plain, is Yatav 
(population, 2,68A), where Guy de Chatillon 
built a collegiate church to the memory of St. 
Laman, archbishop of Seville, who was 
martyred here. Farts of the old walls are 
left. YALBMfiAT (18i^ miles, pop., 8,621) on the 
Kahon, having a CastUy built by De Lorme, for 
the d'Etampes family, and since increased by 
various holders, till it looks like a palace. 
It was the residence of Talleyrand; who is 
buried in the chapel of the Hospice, ffotel. — 
D'Espagne. Correspondance with Selles-sur- 
Cher, page 178. 

Z%9, LIsalg&e (H miles), up the same stream. 
TlM wine* of ^his quarter w«r« qn^ est9«we<l. 



ISBOUdun (C miles), a sous-pr^fcctnre, in de- 
partraent Ihdre, of 13,664 souls, oh a hill-side, by 
the rapid Thiols (here traversed by a handsome 
viaduct), among windmills, formerly a Roman 
station, and once held by the English. Bas- 
Ch&tcau is the oldest part of the town. Haut 
ChAteau is well built. Here are the Palais de 
Justice, built 1856, on the site of Notre Dame 
Abbey; Hotel de Yille, near the old Tour Blanche^ 
or Tower of Charles VII., dating from 1209 (re- 
stored), containing various medieval antiquities ; 
an old tower at the prison ; the Chapel of the 
hospital, with some curious carvings; and a 
barrack, which was an Ursuline convent. There 
are also traces of a Castle, burnt 1135, along with 
an abbey. Another fire happened, 1C51, when it 
was besieged by the Fronde. 

A treaty was made here, 1777, between Louia 
YII. and Henry II. of England, who were sno- 
cessively husbands of Eleanor of Quiennc. Though 
warmly Protestant, yet from attachment to the 
crown, it drove off the party of the League, 1589. 
It was ruined by the Revocation of the Edict of 
Nantes. 

Trade in wool, grain, cattle, wine, and parch- 
ment, a large sheep fair in September and October. 
Its fleeces are reckoned the best in BerrL Im- 
portant iron forges at Boisry, Bellabre, and Alloux, 
in the neighbourhood, near the road called Lev^e 
de Cdsar (Cssar's causeway). Roman traces of 
walls, Ac, are noticed also at Levroux, the ancient 
Oabatum (18^ miles west-north-west), besides 
megalithic remains. Pretty spots at De la Prde 
old abbey, and Qouers. 

Hotel.— Ve France. 

Coaches to Lignibres and St. Amand (81 miles). 

[LiGMiiKBS (16 miles south-south-east) on the 
Amon, near a group of lakes, has a Castle 
which was the residence of Jeanne de Yalois, 
the divorced wife of Louis XIL] 

NeUTy-PaillOUZ (7 miles). A little north Of 
Ch&teauroux (10 miles further) are the interesting 
remains of De'ols^ or Bourg-Dieu Abbey ^ founded in 
the 10th century by the "Princes of D^ols," 
close to their ch&teau, originally built, they say, 
by a Roman pro-consul, L^ocad^t whose son Eudo 
or St. Ludre, I9 bwiod in IbQ cborch, tindw i 



2oe 



BBADSHAW's ftLtfdfftifiD 



bUcli tione, whkh 1« held in great rererenee by 
tbe people. The abbey became Tery rich after 
Baoal-le-Laye founded Chiteaoronx; so that in 
the 17th centnry, a prince of Cottd€ made a joor- 
ney to Komet to beg it of Gregory XV. 

CHATZAUBOmC, 

M^ miles from Orleans, 169} from Paris. 
POFULATTOir, 3^,924. 

fioTeLs.^Dc la Promenade; de 8te. Catherine; 
de France. 

The rtilef town of department Indrc (with a 
tribunal, college, Ac.), In the old Prorincede Berri, 
and a centre of the woollen manufactures, on a hlll- 
slope by the Indre, (two bridges to Faubourg St. 
Cbrtstoirfie), in a fertile plain. It was founded by 
Raonl le D4ols (whence the name, (ThAteau- 
Raoul), who, about 940, built an abbey at Deals 
Ul mile off, as abOTe), and here built a castle, 
in which Ckmd^ had his wife (who waa Kiehelien^s 
niece) imprisoned. She lies in the old mined 
Church of St. Martin, That of the (Cordeliers is a 
.prfiion. 

An ancient Gate remains in the middle of the 
^town. There is a good prospect from the pin- 
nacles of the old Ch&teau Raoul at tbe top of tbe 
town J which lias been replaced by a modem 
buibliiig containing tbe archives. Prefecture built 
1828; Hotel de VUIe, built 1823, with a library 
of 15,CO0 vols. There are also three churches (one 
unAiiishcd), a college, theatre, Jardin publique, and 
Govcrnntout tobaccp^ factory. The old narrow 
,sti?cet8 have been somewhat improved. There is 
a statue to General Bertriuid (a native), who went 
with Napoleon I. to St. Helena, and died in 1844. 

Trade in woollens, cotton fhrcad, iron (from the 
- Gorges arotind), kc. 

jCbAteauroux Is also a station on the line from 
. Tour* to Mentlu^on, the first half of which is des- 
^Ibe^ on page 172. The other division^ 65 miles, 
only passes one important station, lOk Cll4tre, 
,pop.ulatlop, 6,048, the Hotel de Villc, of which 
was formerly a Carmelite Convent. It is an old 
but decaying place. 

From Chatcauroiix the line traverses a tract of 
(lattish. country past the forest of Chftteioiroux to 
tttSUlt (7} miles). 

ti6tt^erB (3i miles). Tunnel of 1,187 yards, 
W^ viaduct over the doiuaime to ^ 




1 Clialieiiet (5| miles). About 18| 
Ls-Blaxc, see page 173. 
Argenton it miles), on the Crense, has t«« 
; bridges dividing the upper town (on a steep rocip 
 from the lower, and remains of a Castle built, tbc^ 
say, by Pepin. Population, 6,270. /Totef.— De In 
Ff^saoe. 
[From Argenten a picturesque exenrrion may b^ 
made to the valley of the Bourzanne, contsin- 
ing on the banks of tbe river a nonber oi 
chAteaux of the 14 th and 16th centnriea, and 
the ruined keep of La Chaise. This may.be 
continued up the valley of the Creusc, to Ihc 
small but interesting town of Gargileaae, des- 
cribed by George Sand, with many edifices of 
the 121h and 13th centuries.] 
Colon (of miles). At 9 miles distance fTt>m 
Celon are the ancient priory and village of St. 
Besoit-dc-Sallt, near the falls of Montgamaud. 
Population, 1,100. The ruins are interesting and 
partly Gothic, rartly late date. Remains of forti- 
fications of ihe 13th and 14th centuries. Tho 
castle and dolmen of Montgamaud are also worth 
visiting. 

EgOZOB m miles). To the. east is the mined 
tower of Crozatlt, on a granite rock, 213 feet high. 
M. Belmstten (4| miles). From here a abort 
line of 29 miles, opened 1886, runs direct to 
Gu^ret (see .below). s 

ForgeTi^e (H miles), in department Crease. 
La Sonteiralne (7| miles), an ancient little 
place on the S^delle. PopuUitlon, 4,77». ffotei.-^ 
De Frande. 
FrOmeniUl (5f mllea). Cbfttean, 14th oeHtnry. 
SOTMIC (6| miles), in department of lCaate> 
Vi^ne. 

St. tfnlpieO-LaiUl^ro m mOes), o« the Gar- 

tctnpe^ Where the line f«nn Poitiers, Hd IfoAtmo- 

riMon (see page 176X falls in. 

[The Jiaa to M^ntlu^on (76 miles) passes Mar- 

sac (8 miles), in department Crense; 

VieiUeTille (7* milce), the station for 

Br.np.VKNT, 3 miles distant; HontOlsiit 

(5 jiiUcs.^ on the Gartempe; Xa Bs* on&e f6 

miles) tu : 

QUEB3T (Smiles), . 
Ciipital of department CuEtsff. 
irOTKL8.-RouSfl6atij St. Francois. " ^ 



S6u£c43.] 



itAKi^-Book 



•f '— » —~^ >" ^ 



TO f BAKCIC. 



r ' •> 



207 



1 



/.population,, 7, 799. , A 4iill place, under a hill, 
between the rivers Creus© and Gartcmpc^ but 

- .. not near enough for either, to bo of service 

to it. It was called Garactum, cr Varacium, 

and grew out of an abbey, founded 720, by 

Clotaire ; it was also the residence of the counts 
< ^ 

of Marche,at whose old Cfidteau (a little east), 
tiow in ruins, Charles Vll, stayed when in 

, ' ^pursuit of his rcbcirious son, Louis XI. The 
streets a,re harrow and the buildings of little 
note. Parts of its old walls remain. It has a 
libYriry of 4,500 volumes, with a lunatic asylum 
and a pcpinicre (nursery) for the department. 
A group of stones in the neighbourhood is 
called La Ptyras. Trade in wool, cattle, and 

'" butler. 

Aldclicrt, the first count (about 993) of the 
province of Marche^ of which Oucret was the 
capital, having given himself the title, and 
captured Tours, in spite of the threats of the 
king, Hugh Capet, was asked by him, "Who 

'.. made you a Count ?" to which the bold vassal 
answered, " Who made you King ?" — a rather 
difficult question for this monarch, whom 
l)ante has placed in his Purgatoi'io. His des- 
cendant, Aldebert, sold it to Henry II. of 
England, who sold it again to Hugh of Lusig- 
nan. After some further changes It was 

,. - united to the French crown by Francis I. The 

'. ' vino is not cultivated, but other fruits are 

, nleiUiful; chestnuts are a. common article of 

food. The people of the department speak a 

,. , . kUidof I-imousin patois.. It is the custom for, 
many , of ihem to leave, home in March every 
A'car, in search of employuLent, returning in ! 
Dcceiubcr. ^ . • 

J 12 miles by rail from VieUleville (as abovo) is 

r< BonrsaaOUft ^ sous-prdfccturo of 3,SG3 souls, 
on the Thorion; where, they say, Zlzim, 
a Turkish prince, flying from his brother, 
Bajazct II., and placed here under the protec- 
tion of the grand master, D'Aubusson, built 
a curious Toicer of great solidity, which still 
remains. Paper and porcelain are made. 
i5ro/«/5.— Bayard; Boulcd'Or. 
From Gncret to Basseau-d'JLhun, rme viaduct 
(18 niilea), oh th« Crduao,wherfia short branch 

tbe auciout Agedunum^ amou^ collieries ; and 



'.*.•: 



F<^1inUlllX (i) miles), to 

Atnmssoil (5 miles), a sous-pr€fccture of 6,78^ 
souls, in department Creuse, with nianufacr 
tures of tapestry, 2,000 hands, noted from the 
15th century. It stands in a rocky gap, on 
the Creuse, and has the ruins of a Cfidteau b^ 
longing to the grand master, d'Aubussou, who 
received Prince Zizimat Rhodes, and sheltered 
him at Bourganeuf (as above); it was dis- 
mantled In 1646. 

Hotels.— Du Grand Monarque ; de Ste. Catherine. 

The line is continued via Moutier^RofloUe to 
Felletln (6^ miles), where paper and carpets 
are made. It stands ovtu* the Creuse, on the 
slant of a hill, above which was a castle in 
feudal times; the chapel (16th century) stiH 
remains. Close to tlie town is a db^mmr called 
the Cabanc do C<Jsar, 

About 1 miles to the eart is Cbocq, a little viDagr^ 
on a rock, which, in the troubled .reign of 
Henry IV., gave name to a gang of brigands, 
called Croquans. 

From BusseaU-<l'AllttII the lino goes to 
Oressat (li mile), which is 3 miles from the 
onco fortified town of Cbknkraillbs; Paxsac 
(5i miles), the nearest station for Gouzok 

(sj miles); Larauct-Ftafiehe (loi miios), 

tlie nearest for Boussac (3| miles), on tbe 
little CreU8o;.Huriel (Hi miles); and Mont- 
lufion (7i miles), in department. Valller, on 
. . . the Cher, and on the Bouri^res line. Sec Route 
48 for de>pription, and for conthwation of tbe 
 -line to Moulins.] 

The line from St. Sulpiee to Limoges ha« severed 
tunnels^ 

La Jonch^re i^i miles). 
Ambazac (5 miles). 

Pay-Imbert (10 miles) whence it is IJ mJles tp 
LWOQmib^fetJ, 

Where the line, 248^ miles trom Parls^ was inati- 
guraled by Napoleon III., in 1858. 

Hotels. — De la Boulo d'Or; de la PaiX; 

Richelieu ; du Pdrigord ; de I'Aigle d'ArgOTit. - 

• €•(!/<»— DeFaris; de la Paix. 

Population, 72,697. An old' toim, : eapital c^ 

cie|ATtiii«Bt Hattte-Tienno Ctonaerly of protlii6^ 4r 

Limotuin)^ seat of a diocese^ dsb., in a healthy spot^ 






-^,. ,_-J^« 








-r-^.-E^rr^^^ 


- 


^^,_,^ '*7^^T"-'~^'~^-'' 2,1 i.i- 





JtQai643.] 



HAKD"BOO^ Tp TRAKCB. 



JBhCs Abbe^f foimded in King Dagobert's time, 
tvitli many curious and obscene earrings. 
^SoDiLLAO (13 miles), at the seven-arched bridge, 
ontheDorUognc, has an old Chwch. Population, 
3,218. About 2 miles to the east is Carmnae, 
and remains of a Cluniac Abbey, one part of 
irbich is Tisited a« the spot where F^lon 
irrote some of his excellent works. Its bare 
iiralls are coyered n^ith names of tourists.^ 
ll«(Oa (5f mile^. Here the line to Pdrlgueuz 
(see Boute 44) runs off. La lSeyS9 i^i miles) { 
piianipqlauz (3 miiea); tben 

St. Tipielz (( niile^, a sons-pr^ecture in Haute- 
Ylfnne, on tl^e Loue, iprith a church of fhe 12th 
.fentary, ^nd niannfacture^ (d porcelain. Much 
jfoqlmi ^t which porcelain is made, is got here, 
be4ide9. antimony and terpentine. Population, 
«,711. Bole^.— Belin. 

- CkraSM6-B0im«valil(mUes); chftteauof Uth 
ceninry. ▲ Viadnet, 1(Q feet high, over the 
Boncheme. 7hen 

Bi JaUen-le-yenAoBiialt (SfmUes); Lulier- 

Sac (ii miles), with a popnlation of 9^9M. Viaduct 
of five arches over the Donne. 

Pompadour (8{ miles); then over five yia- 
ducts to 
yignolS-St-Solye (7 miles). A tunnel to 

Qt)t}at (3| mile^), on the Lq^r(^ 

Next, Le Burg (8{ miles). 

Blive, or BriYea, a sous-prefecture, department 
Corrli^e, of 16,808 souls, in a fine wooded valley of 
the Correze (near its Junction with the Ves^re), 
Kinong vineyards, haying a well-built college, 
near the church, ^nd an old carved house, built 
by the English. It is sometimes called Brive-kt- 
Gaillarde^ or the lively, but more for its neigh- 
bourhood than for what it is in itself. Cardinal 
Dubois and Marshal Bnine were natives. Statues 
of the latter and of Majour. Tsade la wine, 
truffles, and cattle. 

Hotel. — De Bordei(ux. Bufft at the station 
The old CaatU of the Hoaiiles family is a little 
to (he south-east, off ^he road. 

Here the junction nil frqm the south, from 
Toglonsf and Montftuban, by wbich the Paris 
ezpreas runs, falls In. On his line || f)|aated 



[UzBBCHB (21 miles), on . the dirept road 
Limoges; a town of 4,8I1>1 souls, on a peak 
oyer the Vczbre, very prettily seated, and 
having many good houses; so that a proverb 
says, *^ whoever has a house at Uzerche, hav 
a castle in Limousin " (the name of the pro- 
vince). It has an old church, 11th century ; and 
St. Eulalie's chapel, of an early date. Here the 
roadtoTuLLE(18| miles — seeRonte60)tumsoir. 
On the road between Uzerche and Tulie up the 
Yez^re, is the village and Castle of Trkigmac. 
To the east of Uzerche (about 7| miles) is the 
Chateau de Pompadour, which Louis XY. gave, 
with the name, to his mistress, whose real 
name was Poisson.] 

Rail to Tulle t^nd Clennont-Ferrand (Route 60). 

^uraana (lO miles), a small town, near an old 
Castle of the Dues de I^ouillou. 
ICarWl (71 miles), or St. penis-pr^B-HarteL 
From St. Denis-prfes-Martei, a line of 47 miles 
was opened, iu 1880, through VleflcaiUp-Blir- 
JaU^B, to AUTlllaO (page 229) forming direct 
communication between the latter place and Paris. 

Koeamadoiur (13 miles), on the 9iver Alzou, a 
s}iort di9tanco from Petbac, standing on a lake, 
near which Charles Martel defeated the Saracens, 
according to some authorities. 

Qramat (^ miles), in a rocky part of the Alzon, 
with good mineral springs and a tumulus. At 9 
miles north-east of it is St Cixk, onthe Bave,among 
high limestone hills, on one of which are the two 
Tovers of 8t. Laurent, 1 80 and 90 feet high. Fall<^f 
th€ Bave, at Antoire, near this, 106 feet, close to 
an old tower. Poht-x>b-Rodbz (11 miles), on the 
Bl^n; and about 6 miles east-south-east is Za Bat- 
tide Fortunikre, where Napoleon's brother-in-Ia'qr, 
Murat, king of Kaples, was bom, the son of fn 
innkeeper. A Tillage near it i$ called altar him. 

La Poumel (14 miles). 

Fl^ei^ Ok miles) ; where the lino from AuriUae 
and Arrant comes in (Route 51). 

Figcac, a sons-prdfectnre in department Lot, 
on the CiS16, in a most picturesque hollow. It grew 
out of an abbey, founded 755, and has, with 
remains of ramparts and ditches, several quaint oM 
hauic* in narrow crooked streets; among which are 
ifii^ 6^<i«C?»«ir tlje ^ajaifde Jnafice) with a 



i to 1 



310 



BBADSUAW'S ILLUSTRATED 



[Sec. 4. 



large hall 83 foet high; the old half -Romanesque or 
roifnd-arched Abbey Churdi, 198 feet long, with a 
dome and towers ; and Notre Dame du Puy, with 
a good screen. There are also the Malson da Sully; 
and many 13ih century houses; with two old 
aiguilles, or landmarks, at the west and south ends 
of the village. A pyramid has been raised to 
Ckampollion le Jeune, the reader of hieroglyphic 
writing, a native. Population, 6,680. Hotel.— Bea 
Voyageurs. 
[Gardailhac (6 miles on the west) has some 
towers, Ac, of a large Castle, and waa dis- 
mantled by Louis XIV. for its attachment to 
Protestantism. — ^At Assiei' (10 miles west-north- 
west of Figeac) are the fine remains of another 
Casile^ built by Galiot de Genouihac, whose 
monument is in the old church,with the motto, 
"Aprfcs la mort, bonne rcnomm^e demeure" 
(a good name lives after death). — Brengues (11 
miles north-east), on theC^^, has two or three 
old Castles, in a very hilly, romantic spot] 

After Figeac, as above, you come, leaving the 
Castle of Cenievieres on the west (a vast structure 
of different dates, through several tunnels to 

CapdBnftC (4 miles), on the Aveyron side of the 
JiOt. This is supposed to be the site of the ancient 
Uxellodunum ; Fontaine dc C^sar is a Roman 
rem tin. Rail to Cahors (pa^^-e 213), opened 1886. 

It passes Cajabc, on the Lot, a village of 1,818 
souls, in a beautiful spot among vineyards and 
111 lis, with an old Gothic church of the 13th 
century, and castle. — Oinouillac, a little west of 
this, is on the road to Cahors (page 213), wiiich 
is about 2!^ miles further, vid Leutillac, Gironde, 

Ac. 

The branch rail to Rodez, 41 miles, falls in hero. 
• [It passes St. Martin de Bouillao (6 miles), 
and P6XlCllOt(2i miles), to ViTlez (2 miles;, 
where a short branch goes off to the large 

forges of DecazevUle; then Aubin (2^ 

miles), with its old castle, and Craxisac (2 
miles), among forges ^nd iron mines, to St. 

Chrlstoplie (8f miles;; next, Marc^llac 

(4i miles), on the C-Me, a I'ranch of the Lot, 
which has an old abbey church, not fur from 
a large stalactite grotto, full of galleries and 
ohambers ZCuceS (3 siilM), SsOleS-la- 



Sonrce (S miles), and Rodez (5| miles), for 

. which see Route 52.] ' 

After Capdenac, the next station is NaUBSaC 

(5 miles), followed by Salles-Conrbatiers (Sf 

miles) and Villeneuve (3 miles), population 
2,948; then 

Villefranclie-de-Rouergue (6f miles), a 

sous-prefecture of 9,734 souls, in department 
Aveyron, in a fine valley, where the Aveyron and 
Alzou meet; founded by Alphonse (brother of 
Louis IX.), Count of Toulouse, near the site of a 
Roman station called Carentomagus. Round the 
market-place are several large old Houses, with 
arcades in front. The collegiate Church, which 
rises above everything else, has a good porch in 
the plain west front, with a high tower over it. 
Us cloisters how serve for a hospital. Griffoul 
fountain ; and manufactures of linen, Ac; trade in 
trufSes and hams. At La Baume are mines of ar- 
gentiferous lead, and phosphates of various kinds. 
Hotels. — Du Grand Soleil ; Notre Dame. 
The rail hence follows the south side of the 
Aveyron (leaving the high road on the south side) 
to 

MonteilB (6 miles) . Gorge of the Aveyron with 
numerous bridges and tunnels. 

NaJ&O (3i miles). An old rained castle and 
bridge of 13th century. 

La Gu^ple (6 miles). At the confluence of the 
Aveyron and Viaur. . 

LezOS iH miles), where the rail to Montanban 
turns off. 
[It passes St. Antonin (7i miles) station, at 
some distance from the town, which lies across 
the river, on the road to Caussade. Popula- 
tion, 4,137. Hotel.— Lti&titc. Tl.e line from 
here is a constant succession of tunnels and 
bridges. 
Pexine (7f miles). Tunnel. 
Bnuziqtuel (4^ miles), on the Yarrc. An old 
castle hero. Dolmens and bone caves in the 
neighbourhood. . 
MontriCOVJL (3^ miles). Ruined feudal castle. 
N^grepeliSJSe (4| miles), in department Tam- 
ct-Garonne. Population, 2,566. It was taken 
by assault by Louis XIIL for its Protestantism. 
The old Castle stands in a pretty spot by th« 
river. 



Boute 44.] 



Ui.Nl>-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



811 1 



'St. Etlexme de Talmont (H miles). 

Montauban (8^ miles), on the Bordeaux and 
Cctto line (sec Route 66).] 

From Lexos the stations are, Vlndrac (6f 
miles); Donnazac (^ miles); and Cahuzac (3 
mile.s), to 

Tessonni^reS (3i miles), where the line from 
Albi falls in (Route 52). Then to 

Gaillac (3 mllcs), on the road to Toulouse, 
where that to Montauban tunis off ; a sous-prefec- 
ture, on the Tarn, with 7,709 population, in a good 
wine country. Portal, the physician, was born 
here. Hotels. — Jalabcrt; du Cheval Blanc. 

The next stations are L'Isle d'Albl (5f miles), 
Rabastens m miles), and St. Sulpice (4i miles), 
which has a camp raised in the wars against the 
Albigenses, in the time of Louis VIII. A short line 
of 27 miles connects St. Sulpice with Montauban. 

After this come Montastruc iH miles), Grag- 
nague (H miles), and Montrab^ (S miles), from 
which it is 5 miles to 

Toulouse, as in Route 66, on the Bordeaux and 
Cette line. 

K.OXJTE 44- 

Uxnoges to Pdricrueuz, Goutras, Gahors and 
Montauban, and Agen. 

Limoges to Nezon, as in Route 43. Here the 
direct line to Toulouse, via St. Yrieix and Brive, 
turns off. 

BU8Bl6re>Qalant (lli miles), from which a 
branch of 28 miles runs via ChalUS (4i miles), 

Champagnac, Rochecliouart (page 208), to 
Saillat-Chassenon. 

[Ghalus, on the Tardoire, remarkable for the 
ruined Castle, before which Richard Cceur de 
Lion was mortally wounded, 1198, by Bertrand 
de Gourdon.] 
TbiYierB (is miles), not far from the fine Castle 
of Hatit^ort, which includes a hospice, fomidcd 
1669, by a family of that name. Rail to Le 
Qaerdy-Pranzac on the route from Angoulime to 
Limoges, which runs by Boumazi^res-LOUbert 
to Ballllt (above). The principal places on the 
line from Thiviers arc Nontron and BraUtdme. 
[Nontron (20 miles), a small sous-prefecture, on 
the Bandiat, near several grottoes and stand- 
in;; stones. Fopuiition, 2,5S5. Hotel. — 
Morolon. 



BbantOme, a pretty place on the Dronne, haying 
three towers of its ancient walls, and the 
remains of a rich Benedictine Abbey, out of 
which it grew. Good trade in the best P^rigord 
truffles. The historian, DrarUdme, w^as titular 
abbot of this foundation. Population, 2,422.] 
At 17i miles from Thiviers is 
PERIOUEUX, 
from which the lines to Coutras (for Bordeaux) 
and Brive part off. 
Population, 31,439. 

Hotels. — De France; dcs Messageries da 
Perigord . Bvffet at S tation . 

The paies de Perigord (made of truffles and par- 
tridges) and its hams are noted, as well as its 
game and poultry. 

I®" Objects or Notice.— Temple of Mars— Am- 
phitheatre— Aqueducts — Cathedral — Montaigne's 
Statue— Gbftteau Barribre. 

Chief town of department Dordogne, seat of a 
military division, a bishop, tribunal, Ac., on a 
pleasant slant of a hill, over the L'Isle, here crossed 
by a good bridge. It was the old capital of Perigord, 
which took its name from the Petrocorii; but 
the Romans called it Vesuna, and have left here 
the half-ruined round Tour de Vesom as a memo- 
rial of their occupation ; it is about 64 feet high, 6 
to 6 thick, and 207 round, made of square stones 
cemented together, with two cornices near the top, 
but no signs of doors or windows. There are also 
parts of the front of a Temple of Mars, besides 
traces of an Amphitheatre (290 feet by 280), of five 
Roman ways (to Bordeaux, Agen, Saintes, Ac), 
and two Aqueducts, remains of a camp on a hill 
across the river, fragments of baths, «kc. 

The ruined Chateau Barriere is partly Roman 
partly later date. There are inscriptions and 
mutilated sculptures. 

In the oldest quarter of the town, called the 
Citd, the streets arc narrow, and lined with high 
solid stone houses, many carved and Gothic-look- 
ing; but the other half, Puy St. Front, is more 
modem. 

St. Front Cathedral was founded, some say, as 
far back as the fifth and sixth centuries. In its 
present form it is a copy of St. Marks, at Venice 
and dates from the 10th century. It forms a GreeL 
cross (<.c., four equal arms), with a later built 
Tower of three wtoreys 197 feet high, the oDly 



Bit 



BBABBHAWHl IliLVtfBAnD 



rSeo.4. 



•xlf tUg ByMKtlna steepl«, and lapks well, though 
the dttaita «ra haavy. It has been carefuUf re- 
atored. 

St. Mtimnt Church is partly of the 10th century; 
it was the cathedral up to the end of the I6tb 
century. 

The other buildingg are— The bishop** palace, 
with subterranean cloisters; a modem prefecture; 
the palais de justice (opposite the bronze statue 
of Montaigne). There are also a Library of 18,000 
▼olumes; a Museum of minerals and antiquities, 
collected by M. Taillefer; a talle de spectacle; the 
casernes or barracks ; and a botanlfsal gardep and 
district nursery. On the ampbltlieatre is the 
Mu$9um site ol the Ckamhon^ so called after a 
citizen yrbo gave it to the town, and was burled 
here under a pillar. Statues to F^elon (set tip in 
.18A0) and Marshal Bugeaud. 

This placo had the prltilege of coining for the 
French kings. For a time it was held by the 
English as part of Aquitaine, and was one of the 
tight cities of refuge allowed to the Protestants at 
<he peace of 1576. When the BUtes of Perigord 
ttsed to meet here, the four barons, of RoMrdwU 
(18 mll^s north-west of this), Biron, Breynat, and 
-Haireuil, preceded the other peers as *^ premiers 
bavons ; ** and to save disputes, these four were 
always summoned togrether, and subsoribed their 
jm«>es in a eirele, or round-robin. 

in the neighbourhood is a deep spring called 
Bourse de TAbime, which turns several mills; and 
«t Haryao is an intermitting q>ri]ig, which changes 
4aily about p.m. 

Trade in coarse woollens, liqueurs, hogs, eattle, 
ohestnutt, and wood. Rail to Coutras and Bor- 
deaux (as below), Agen, Brive, Capdenac, Mon- 
tauban, Ao. 

[From Ptfrigueux by Bail to Ooutras, down the 

L*isle, is 47 miles; trains, 2 to 8 hours.} 
The first station from P6rigueux is La Oaye. 
BavaC (0^ miles). Branch to Ribbrac, an un- 
important sous-prefecture, on the Dronnc. Popula- 
tion, 8,C96. Remains of Mellet^ a, castle of tho 
Counts of Tnrenne. 
Then over the L'Isle to 
St. Astler (4| miles); population, 8,201. 
HeUYiC (4| miles). 

HUBSldan. (8} miles), on a fertile part of the 
~ *^ie, once a fortified town, which the Protestants 



took, 1560, and which wai retakei^ oU yean after, 

by capitulation, when the Protestants were put to 
the sword. This breach of faith is tho subject of 
a chapter in Montaigne's J?«a«f, "L'Heure dca 
parlemens dang^reuse." 
A short line of 19^ miles was opened in 1890 to 

IUl)^]«o (se0 a^ove) rifi 3ior^ de Ritt^rax: 

(below), 
[^all \'d\ miles from Mussidan to Jleff erao (A 
s^tion 26 miles from Llbourne by ri^il, page 
179), in the rich plain of the Dordogne (where 
the Suire joJus it), Jn a white wine country. 
It is a sous-pr^fectijre (14,785 popiilation)^ 
which belonged to t|ie Counts of Perigord; waa 
held by the English for a time, and dismantled 
by Louis XI1|. A five-arch stone bridge 
crosses the nier. It has Notre Dame Church, 
\>\x\\i 1856; a college; a Bibliothfeque (with a 
portrait of La Belle Qabrielle), and salle de 
spectacle. Trade in wine, paper, liqueurs. 
jyoteii.—Des Princes; deaVoyageura. Ooachea 
to P^rlgueux, Ac. The rail runs up the Dor- 
dogne to 8t. Oapralse, Ckmie, LaUftde, 

Tr^molat, Ac, to Le Bulsson (below). At 
Couz^ oorrespondauce f or Beaamont(page 213). 

Lauzitn, about 15i milea south of Bergerac, la ^ 
small walled place, on s hill, with a duiU^ 
which belonged to thp piron fiiraily Mid the 
Dukes of Lauzun. The Ohapel eontains a vot|iF^ 
fnarbh of Roman times, from Bord^^u:)^.^ 

From Mussidan the next atatian, tpirnv^f 9f>r- 
deauz, is 

BeauponjFel (4f miles) ; then 

Montpont (4| miles), lower dawn tlio I/Iala, 
near a Roman eainy), where coina of tlM Emperor 
Probus have been found, with remains of the 
Ghartreux Abbey of Vdvelaire. Beuble, 1^ miles. 

8t. ll^dard (5 miles), followed by 

Coatras station (4| miles), on the main line 
from Paris (page 79), ffSl miles from BOTdOauX. 

From P^rigueux, the direct lino, liimogea to 
Agcn passes {fiyersae (?i miles), ^c, to 

Miremont (I4i miles), near the Corr^ze. 

Les Eyzies (H miles). Le Bogrue (4| miles) 
population, 2,651. 

Le BaisseXl (•'>| miles), on the Dordogpie, where 
the lino from Bergerac (above) cornea in. 

Siorac m miles). Here the lino to Sarlat 
and St. Denis-prbs-Martel (page 209) runa in; 



Ibiild 44.] 

tBARtiT (18^ tiilles), ft sdiis-pr^f^itire of 6,615 
toiils, in a narrow pictttreHiqae pasii of the hills, 
dnd once a fortified t6wn, as old as St. Benoit's 
abbey, foiindcd by Charlettiagne. Good paper 
is nlade. Hotel De ^anfee.] 

BelT^B (8 miles). Ld Qot, near which are 
Hontpazier, Ac, as below. 

tBKAUMOKT (12 miles west) was built by Lneas 
de Temy in the 18th century, and walled round 
(by the English when they held Quienne) 
with battlement towers. Corrcspondance to 
Gouze (page 212). About 11 miles south-east is 

MoNTPAZiBB, another fortified post of the Eng- 
lish, built 1284. At 8 miles south-south-west 
of this is 

BiBOH, the seat of one of the four pr«m{er Bartms 
of Guienne, and held for ages by the family of 
Gontaut-Biron. One o them, Jiarslial Biron^ 
a great soldier, was made a duke by Henry 
tV., and lost his head, 1602. His effigies on a 
iomb carred with bas-relief round the sides 
kre in tke ch&pel of the CMteau, which stands 
high, and had a Yiew of the distant Pyreii^eit.j 

VilleflranclLe-de-Bely^B (iii miles); from 

which it is 26i miles by road to Gourdon. 

tCkrardea, * station eta the eipress line from 
t^arift, kM a ious-prffeclurti in department Loi 
lipopulatlob, 4,884) \ ft strong place^ on a hill 
over the Blfon, surmounted by a good Gothic 
CAKrvft, built 1A08-14, with two towers of 112 
feet in the frcAt, ahd a rose Window, 46 feet 
Across t the nare is 87 feet by 9B^ and 78 high. 
Another old church belonged to the Cordeliers. 
Oh a Mcond hill, behind, stood the castle (de- 
molished 1818^ by the Leaguers) of Berttnhd 
(fe Ooutdori, Who was tiie cause of Gosur de 
Lion's death at Chains. JToM.— De TEcu.] 

libOB, or le MosBempron-LlDoB (is miles), 

on the river Lot, in department Lot-et-Gdronne ; 
Where the line to Cahors comes in. 

[The rail to Cahors, up the Lot, passes 

Fnmel ({ mile), which has the family seat of the 
ancient seigneurs of Fumel, whose Co^umei or 
laws, written in Gascon, ot the 12th century, 
are cited by writers on <^d French lurispin- 
dence. 



ttJklrB^iddt «d tWkmu. 



IIS 



DvraTtftl (7i milel) I Pnsr-rfiT^ite (8 mlles) ; 
tiTUech (8| miles); whenee it is 11| miles 
to Cahors. 

Hotels. — ^Des Ambassadeurs ; do T Europe. 

Population, 15,369. Capital of department Lot, 
seat of a diocese, and a very eld city, on a 
h}cky height over a bend of the Lot. Ptolemj^ 
ealls it Douema, after the Latin Divona (f roni 
a sacred spring here), and it was the head of 
the Gadufxii whence the name. The English 
held it for k time ; Ahd Henry of Navarre pil- 
Ikged it, after a hard fight, 1580. 

I'he 8U«ets are steep and nilrrdw; the oldest 
piu-t is in Haute-Vllle, where tiie houses 
cominand k fine prospect (even as tki kt the 
Pyrenees) fi*om their terraces-. 

The Cathedral his two cupolas (oiid l69 Ibet high), 
on six pillars, and a nave, 184 feet by 49. li is 
s&id to be on the site of a temple^ or a pari of 
one, With modem additioxks. There are tbrei 
other churches. 

The Pr^ettnrt was the bishop's palace. Opposite 
the College is A statue of A^^h)n (ptit up 1820), 
Who was educated here. The RdteldeVille 
Is new; and the large priests' seminary is 
lumed into a barrack. Of the thi^e bridges 
en the rirer (where the prometladeb are), one, 
dftlled Pont Valentrd, has three gate Tweers 
eh it ; another, named af teir Louis Philippe, 
IheplaOes the kotre Dkme bridge i dnd Pont 
Heof leads to the faubourg St. George. A 
public library hfts 12,000 volumes ; thek'e are 
Also a Lyc€e, theatre, And a tobacco factory. 

§ome pieces of Roman ^all reniAin, nekir the 
Fontaine de Divone^ or des Chal'treux (close 
to the site of the (JhartrCuse, and a pre- 
ceptory of the Knights Tennilars), which 
springs up iii a fine hollow Under the moun- 
tains, and runs by several mills, to the Lot. 
An Aquedwt weiit hence to St Martin do 
Verb (15| miles), past la Roque, where some 
Of the arches are seen, in three rows, 
115 feet high, in the style of the Pont du 
Gard. Pope John XXII. Was bofn at a kouse 
outride the north gate. C. Jftttott who ttlmed 
the psalms Into fashionable ^ 



r 



214 



BBADSHAW'S UAAJBTRATSD 



[Sec. 4. 



mUiTe (time of Franels I), Another is Gam- 
hetta, who nnreiled .n memmi^l pjramiil, IS.SI 
Trade excellent in wine, trnfflo*, cauHlc-vie. 
leather, Arc, Rail to Paris Toulouse. Rodez 
(Sa mil^; see Route 52), Aariilac, VillcneuTe 
d* Agren station (38^ miles ; see Route CC), and 
Capdenac (sec pagre 2I0>.] 
This line wa^ continued, in 1881, from Cahors. to 
MontantMinf 40 miles, on the CTiemin de Ftr du Midi, 
Route €6. The line pas&es through Montpezat 
and Caussade. 
□iOBtP^sat, a town of 2,144 inhaiJ Unts, with 
an old Church of 14th and 15th centorics, 
containing tombs and tapestries ct those dates. 

fjtkTkWKkdtt (23| miles), in a fertile spot on the 
Lcrs, with 3,747 population, old church tower 
of 14th centnry, old houses of I'th and J4th 
centuries, and a good trsue in cattle, wool, 
barlt, black truffles, capons, 4kc.3 

From Libos (abore) the rail descends the Lot to 
Penjie (lO miles), in department Lot-et-Ganmne. 
Correspondance to Tonmon. Here a short branch 
runs to 
[YlltelMllTe-flir-Lot ifil miles), or Ville- 
nenTe d'Agen, a sous-prefecture of 13,978 
souls, on both sides of the Lot, joined by an 
ancient one-arch bridge, 114 feet wide, 58 high, 
and only 4| thick. The north part is the largest 
and best built. Arcades go round the public 
Place. There are remains of the old walls; 
also a college, Protestant church, theatre, a 
military stud, sereral mills, a hospice of St. 
Cyr, large conrent of St. Croix, baths, and a 
house once Inhabited by Margaret de Valois. 
At 4 miles north is a large House of Correction, 
in the old Abbtyof Ejftfes (the Roman Exeiuum\ 
to which St. Louis's brother gave the new 
town (Vilie Neure) after restoring it, 1253, 
on the site of one called Gazac. In the wars 
of the League it was besieged by Margaret de 
Valois, who took the father of C'icutat (its 
defender) prisoner, and brought him under 
the walls, threatening to kill him if the place 
was not given up. The fai her told his son to do 
his duty. The young soldier, pretending a 
parley, descended with a few bruTe followers, 
dispersed the guard, and retook his father; 
^9 defended the town so courage- 



ously, that Margaret was obliged to raise 
the siege. Linens, oil, leather, popcr, aremade ; 
and there is a good trade In grain, prunes, 
wine, cattle, and Iron. HoUtM, — BigBon; 
Lamoureux, Coaches to Agen, Cahors, Ac. 

About 10 m les north-east is Moxtfuocquis, a 
picturesque old rilla^re of the ISth centnry, 
on a peak orer the L^de. which runs to the Lot. 

MoBTAinx and TouKaros, two small towns, are to 
the east, on a branch of the Lot.] 

At ie| miles further is 

ASen, as in R«)ule 06. 



PaziB to Tlenon.Boiirsr68,NeTen,HoiLli]i8, 
Vichy, Clermont - Ferrand, Brlonde, 
Alals, Nlmes, and Le Pny. 

By rail, 450 miles. 

Orleans to Vierzon station, as in Route 43. 
Then the line, parting off from that to Lim<^?ea, 
crosses the Y^vrc and Canal de Berry, on a Tiadnct, 
and enters a cutting and a tunnel of 722 feet, near 
the remains of Vierzon castle. Then to 

Fodcy {fi\ miles), where there is a porcelain 
factory. 

Hehnn-SIir-T^vre (3^ miles), on the T^rre, 
has part of a chapel, staircase, and tamtr, of the 
faTourite Chateau of Charles VII., where he lired 
with Agnes Sorel, his mistress, at a tUne when 
nearly all France was in the possession of. the 
English, and where he afterwards died, starred to 
death, through fear of being poisoned by his 
wicked son, Louis XI. It belonged to the Courte- 
nays, one of whom married St. Louis's nephew, 
Robert d'Artois, and another was allied to the 
emperors of Constantinople. The family is now 
represented by the Earl of DeTon, of Powderham 
Castle. They founded here the abbey of Ste. 
Marie de BeauTolr (for noble families only), of 
which the Church remains. Population, 6,572. 

Marmagne (4^ miles), on the T^vre. At 5| 
miles further, and 145 miles from Paris, is 

BOUBGES, 

where a line strikes off, rtd St. Amand, to Mont- 
lu9on. (Sec Route 48). 

IIOTKLS. — De France; de la Boulc d*Or; dc 
I'Europc 



Boute 45 ] 



HAKB-BOOR TO PRANCB. 



215 



'Objects of Notice.— Cathedral— St. Ursin's 
door— H6tel de Villc— Hotel Salvi— Malson de 
Louis XII. — Museum. 

Population, 4V342. 

Chief place of the department Cher, in the old 
province of Bei-ri, scat of a cour nationale (high 
court of law), college, archbishopric, military diri- 
sion, Ac, on the Canal du Bcrri, and on the Evre, 
or Y^vre, where the Auron meets it. 

It was the head of the eastern BUuriges (whence 
the name), and is called Avaricum by Caesar, who 
sacked it without mercy after a siege. Before the 
Revolution it was the chief town of Berri, and 
noted for its good society, from having an Univer- 
siiy established 14C6, by Louis XI. (a native), be- 
sides 20 churches, an abbey, and many religious 
houses. At this university Cond^ studied, and 
when it adopted Reformation principles, it was 
attended by Calvin and T. Beza. The streets are 
mostly narrow and crooked, with many low gabU- 
ended houses, especially In the old town, which sur- 
rounds the hill, where the Cathedral stands. The 
open Places and Sdraucourt promenade are well 
planted. 

St. Stephen's Cathedral, which commands a fine 
view of the town and neighbourhood, is one of the 
best in France, though the exterior is less strik'ng 
than that of some other cathedrals. It was built 
in the 13th and 14th centuries. Length, 34S feet. 
The front, 180 feet wide, has five great doors, 
ascended by steps, and two towers without .spires 
(one 210 feet high), and is ornamented with sculp- 
tures of Scripture subjects, niched statues, &c. 
One of the towers was rebuilt, after a fall of its 
predecessor, the last day of the year 16 6. The 
interior is 141 feet wide, and has fire nates (the 
middle one 121 feet high), stained Windows (some 
as old as the r2th century), a rose window, 18 
chapels, carved stalls, a fine altar, and an old 
crj'pt, in which are monuments of Marshal Mon- 
tigny, and Jean, first Duke of Berri— the latter, an 
eifigy, with the muzzled bear (ursine) at his feet. 
A clock, In the tower, is as old as 142->. 

The archbishop's palace, in the Italian style, 
has been rebuilt shice a fire, 1871. In the grounds, 
a3 laid out by Le Notre, stands an obelisk to the 
Due de B^tbune-Charost. The churches of Notre 
Dame and St. Bonnet were both burnt 1487, and 
reballt 1510-20. At the Pr^focture is the Notnnan 



door of St.Ursin*B church, which stood clofo to the 
palace of the Dues de Beni, built by Duke John, In 
whose time the city was at the pitch of prosperity. 
It was this magnificent noble who rcbuHt Meheung 
castle, and gave it to the Dauphin Louis. The 
Prdf ecture was unfortunately burnt in April, 1859, 
with the city archives, «kc. 

The Palais de Justice was built 1443, by the 
famous Jacques Coeur, silversmith to Charles VII., 
in a rich Gothic style, and was given to the 
town by Colbert. Notlctf the oriel doorway, the 
curious chimney, the sugar-loaf towers, the chapel, 
the carvings of hearts (coQUrs), ^c, the motto, *' A 
vaillants coeurs rien impossible** (nothing is im- 
possible to bold hearts) near the gate, the stained 
windows, and portraits of the founder, and of 
Bourdaloue. Jacques Coour, after rendering great 
services to his ungrateful sovereign (called in de- 
rision " Roi de Bourges," till Joan of Arc emanci- 
pated her country), was falsely accused of poison- 
ing Agnes Sorel, put to the torture, and condemned 
to forfeit his immense possessions — his palace at 
Bourges, his eight cr iiine other seats, his barony of 
Soucy, his twenty-six scigncuries, his merchant- 
ships in the ports, &c. — all of which were shared 
by his enemies. 

The Caserne d'Artillerie (artillery bairack) is a 
large pile, built 1682, by Archbishop Phdlip- 
peaux, for a priests' seminary. In Rue des Ar^nes 
stands the Barrack for gendarmerie, called H(Hel 
Cujas, a sort of brick Tudor house, with spires, 
which belonged to Cujas, the scholar, at whose 
death, in 1500. the university began to decline. 
Another old building is Ffotel Lallemand, built by 
one of thnt family, 16 2, in the Renaissance 
'tylc (a sort of ornamented Itnllan), and has a 
finely c irvcd court, and a chapel, where Louis XI. 
(boi*n here, 1423) was baptised. His crest, the 
porcupine, as well as the salamander of Francis I. 
is visible among the ornaments. 

Other buildings are, the Museum, at the Malrie, 
which has some portraits, besides statuettes from 
Charles VII.' s mausoleum to Duke John; open 
every day. Public library of 25,000 volumes; 
the Prefecture; college, and seminary; salle de 
spectacle. Departmental Prison at the old palace 
of the dukes. Two mineral springs are near. The 
arms of Bourges are three moutons d'or, alluding to 
the sheep and fleeces of Beni. Sine * 



190 



fiBAD8HAW*S ILLUgfSATfiD 



the Mummqt^^iUittffi, a collection of 700 or 800 
works, of various tchoQU^ many of tfafim boiineathed 
by M. Cacaalt and the Due do Feltre, and among 
w^ich are two by MuriUo. A Natural ^vfery 
musemn in Roe da Port Conunoneau contains many 
good mineral specimens, and a cariosity in the 
shape of the tanned skin of a republican soldier. 

Other buildings arc— the churches of St. Simllfen, 
St. Francis de Sales, and N. D. dePsalette;.flve 
hospitals, Including the N6tel Dieu, built 1655; the 
general hospital of St. Jean ; and a hydrographical 
school. There is also a Botank Garden. 

Near the Hdtel du Commerce is a handsome 
covered way, built 1843, called Passage Pommeraye, 
ornamented with Debay*s statues. 

Besides Anne of Brittany, Cassard, a famous 
sailor, Fouch^, the police minister, Caillaud, the 
traveller, Leannec, the physician, and General Cam- 
bronne, were born at Nantes. The statue of Cam- 
bronne stands in Cours Henry IV. Marshal Gilles 
de Retz, the French Bluebeard, was burnt here in 
1440. Palais, or Pallet^ in this neighbourhood, on 
the road to Clisson (Route 41), was the native place 
(1079), otAhelard. The Chdteaux of Haute Goulaine 
and Sailleraye, near Nantes, are worth seeing. 
• Steamers: To Nort (up the Erdre) ; above it, in a 
pretty part where the river is like a lake, is GAcherie 
Chateau, where Marguerite de Navarre lived, when 
she wrote the '^ Ileptameron," a collection of licen- 
tious tales. To Paimbceuf (down the river) . 

Conveyances: By rail, to St. Nazaire, Redon, 
Rennes, Brest, La Rpche-sur- Yon, Sables d'Olonnes, 
Rochefort, 4sc.; and to Chftteaubriant, 40 miles 
(page 198), vid SUC^ and Iss^. At Chftteau- 
briant it meets the branch of the Western, to 
Vergonnes, Segr^ (page 197), Ch&tean-Gontier 
(page 198), Qennos, and SabM, 60 miles (page 
61). From Nantes, the State Line to Bordeaux, 
about 280 miles long, runs across the Loire to 

Pont Rousseftu, Booaye (9 miles), ste. Pas- 

aiUie (7 miles), where a branch of 18 miles turns 

off, vid St. Hilaire. Bonrgneuf, La Bemerle, to 

Pomic (page 191); and from St. Hilaire, vi& St 

P^re-en-Retx, to Paimbceuf (page i9i), is miles 

from St. Hilaire. From Ste. Pazanne the State 

Line proceeds to Cballans, Gonmieqiilen 
(\urancfa to St allies Oroiz de Vic, at the sea 
«i4f) and La-&OObe<4nir-TO]iCaa below). H«nce 



[Sec. 4. 



to Lu^n, MaraiiB, Ac. (page 196), La Rochelle 

(page 195) and Ro61iefort (page 193), Tonnay- 

Gharente, BaiateB^Poni. Jonxac, Sett aliens, 
OftTlgnac, Oubzac, and Bordeanz (page 180). 

Rail through St. Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu (4,000 
inhabitants) to Log^ 

[From Nantes, on the t{ne to Sables <rolonne 
and Rochelle, you cross the I^irc, near Pout 
Rousseau, to VertOU (8 miles); dlSSOIl (12 
miles), above the picturesque valley of the 
Sfevre, where the Moine joins; having the old 
battered Castle of the Constable de Clisson, a 
soldier of the 14th century. A well, into which 
400 Vend^ans were thrown by General Kleber, 
1793, is filled up. About 6 miles north-e^st is 
VAllet, producing the best wine in the depart- 
ment (population, 4,901). The next station is 

Montalgu Vendue (7imUes); thenL'Her- 
bergement (6imUes); BeUevllle-Veiid^e 

(9^ miles); from which it is 8 miles to 

La Roche-SUr-Yon, alias Napoleou-Vend^e, 
1830; alias Bourbon- Vendue (when the Bour- 
bons were restored, 1815); alias Napoleon- 
Ville, as christened by the Emperor in 180(i. 
Population, 12,215. Hotels.—De TEurope; du 
Pelican. 

This small capital of department Vend^ is now 
called by its original name of i!^a£<)c/M-4t«r-r0fi, 
from an ancient Castle on the prec^itoua rock 
over the Yon, which Oliver Clisson took from 
the English, 1373, and which came to. the 
Trdmouilles and Bourbons, and was razeMd by 
Louis XIII. On its site is a large caserne, or 
barrack, near the SteUue of Napoieon^ put up 
1844. The old bourg has some steep streets. 

The Prefecture is an immense pile, round three 
sides of a square, and contains a library of 
5,000 volumes, <bc. In Place Royale are some 
public buildings and hotels, with a bronze, by 
Maindron, of General Travot, a native, and the 
"Pacificateur de laVendde, 1838," when the 
Vend^ans again rose in behalf of the Bourbons. 
The Church is in the Greek style, with two 
domes. Theatre, Public Halle, Hospital, and 
government Stud. 

Here the line from Paris, viA Brctosnire, Is jokiad. 

The rail to Rochelle proceeds W^'Lu^on, Ac. 
(see Route »7b); btit the Paris-Sables iliw 



HoutC 37.] fiAKD-feOOiC 

mns on to Ld8 Cll011Z6fttlX (5 miles), near 
the old abbey of Fontanelles, close to a grood 
mineral spring. Then La Mothe Atihard 
(6^ miles), Olonne, and 
SaMes d'Olonne (6| miles), a soas-pr^fecture 
in department Vendue (population, 11,667), 
bathing-plae9, fishing place, and port, on the 
sands (sable*) of the Bay of Biscay. The 
bathing is good. A large sardine trade. 
Batteries defend the small harbour. Hotels. — 
De France: Grand Hotel de la Plage; Casino, 
lie Dieu is about 13 leagues north-west.] 
From Nantes, the next station down the north 
side of the Loire is 

La Bourse, and then Cbantenay (2| miles). 

Baase-Indire m miles). Here small frigates 
and steamers are bnili, the engines being made at 
the government factory, on the island of Indret, 
opposite, covered with tall chimneys. 

Goueron (3 miles) takes name from a village 
on the south bank, formerly the outer port to 
Nantes. Here Francis II. of Brittany died. 

St. BUezme de Montlnc (4| miles). 
CordemalB (s miles). 

Bayenay (6^ miles), a small sous-pr^ectnre in 
department Loire-Inf^rienre, of 8,272 souls, where 
the Venddans were finally routed, December, 1793. 
Here the branch lines from Brest to Rennes, viA 
Redon, falls in. 

Dongee (10| miles) and its salt marshes. Coach 
to Lorient, Ac. (Route 42). 
[Opposite this station (4 miles) is 
PalmbOBaf, near the Loire's mouth, a sous-pr^ 
fecture and port of 2,180 souls, with a strong 
mole, 217 feet long, where large ships lie. It 
is not older than the last century. 

PomlC,12 miles south-west, a healthy watering. 

place with an old Ch&teau, on Bonrgneuf Bay, 

in the Bay of Biscay, opposite Noimumtiers 

Island^ which had a Benedictine or black (noir) 

abbey. These and Macheeoul are now on the 

direct rail from Nantes (page 188). BoteL-^ 

De France.] 

MontOlr (4f miles). The last station is 

St. Kazaire m miles), a busy port and trans- 

tlanMe packet station, with a population of 80,936, 

at the Loire's mouth, commanded by Port Mindin, 

on the opposite bank. The port comprises two 



to ^RAKOlfi. 

large Floating Basins Ahd Docks (the largest at 
Penhouet), for the Transatlantic Steam Company. 
The two Basins contain a space of about 82 acres, 
with 14 to 26 feet water; there are two jetties up 
and down the stream, at the entrance, defended by 
a strong mole. Vessels enter and leave at high 
tide. As soon as the tide begins to ebb, the gates 
are shut, and not opened till it flows again to tbo 
level of the water retained in the basin. 

Hotel's. — Des Messageries ; Hotel Bely. 

Resident English Vice-Consul 

Two dolmens are found near Bt. Naaaire, the 
largest is near the station. Hence to 

St Andi^-d'Eanx (6 miles), Pornlcbet 
(8| miles), EscoublaC-la-Bdle (31 miles), for 

[Qu^rande (4| miles) and its saltworks. Popu- 
lation, 7,020. Hotel.— CroiT Verte. It is a 
good specimen of a mediieval Breton town, 
with roachicolated walls, old gable houses, 
and a Gothic church, 12th century. FromEs- 
coublac to Le Poulignen (if mile), Batz 
(2) miles) and its salt works, and Le CrolSlC 
(1| mile), a bathing-place on the Atlantic, with 
a large stone spire church. Population, 2,418. 
At 11 miles off it is Le Four rock and lighthouse, 
98 feet high. Belle lie, Ac, are in the distance.] 

PoltlerB to Nlort, Bo(sliefort, and Botfbelle. 

By rail, to Rochefort, 88 mUes. Three trains 
daily, 4 to 6| hours. 

Poitiers station, as in Route 86. Then to 
St. Benoit, where our branch line turns off to 

Conlombiers (7i miles). To the north of this is 
Cbotttellb, a place so noted for the conning of 
its people, that *' finesse de Croutolle" is a pro- 
verbial expression in vogue. 

Lnslgnan (lOi miles), on the Vonne, in a plea- 
sant spot, in department Vienne. Castle, taken 
and razed by the Duke of Montpensier, 1674, which 
gave name to Ovy of Lusignan, the Crusader, 
who became King of Jerusalem and Cyprus, the 
latter now occupied by England. There are persons 
alive claiming to be descendants of the family. The 
family tombs are at Nicosia, the capital of Cyprus. 
Population, 2,164. Correspondance for Savxat 
(9 miles), where extensive Bonuu remains ^r*-* 




192 



BBADSHAW'S ILLUSTRATED 



Sec. 4ij 



ROOlll^ m milei). FjUUl^rOlIZ m miles). 
La llotlie-8t.-Htoi7« (4i miles). 
BtlIaiX6nt(4imUes) Popalation, 5,036. Old 
houses and Romanesque Crypt. At &| miles north 
is GHAxroBKiEBS, which has manufactures of hats 
and tiles; and stock fairs, which the Spanish 
dealers attend, to buy mules, &c. See page 199. 
La Creche (6 miles). At 8| miles further is 

HIOBT (49 miles from Poitiers). 
Population, 23,325. 

Hotels.— Des Etrangers; de France et des 
PoBtcs ; Raisin do Bourgogne. 
Ct^fes.—'iiAtional ; des Golonnes. 
Here La Polssonni^refrom Angers and Bressuire 
falls in. 

This capital of the department Deux-Sfevrcs (for- 
merly of the Niortaise district, a part of Poitou), 
on a hill-side over the Sfevre-Niortaise, has good 
promenades, and is, on the whole, well laid out. 
Notre Dame, one of its two churches, was built in 
the Gothic style by the English, 1491, with a spire 
246ft. high. The H6tel de Ville was the paktcc of 
Eleanor of Aquitaine, and has an ancient horloge, 
or clock-tower. 

But the greatest curiosity is the Chateau, of 
which the dof^jon is now the maison d'arret, or 
prison. Madame de Maintenon' s father was in con- 
finement here when she was bom, at the Hotel de 
Candie. Other objects of notice are— the mus^e and 
school of design ; a Bibliothfeque of 20,000 Yolumes 
(many rare) besides valuable MSS.; the theatre; 
public baths; large barracks; hospital for 400; 
the Fontaine de Vivier, an artesian well, 108 feet 
deep, which aupplies the town; and the Passage 
du Commerce, a covered way. In Rue Royale. A 
pretty spot in the neighbourhood is the Cambon 
brook; some standing stones are also to be seen. 

Manufactures of chamois leather for gloves 
and breeches; flannel, and angSliques (a sweet- 
meat); and a trade in grain, wine, vegetables 
(which are plentiful). Its fairs for cattle, horses, 
and goods in general were so famous, and at the 
same time so convenient for match-making, that 
the ages of marriageable girls were reckoned by 
the number they had attended— " -Btf« a tant de 
/Wr«t,j>ItMM<ee«fM''— (she is so many fairs more 
than sisteeiv yeart old). 



[A line (52 miles) runs from Xioit to Buffec 
(page 176) on the rail from Poitiers to Bor- 
deaux. The principal station is Melle, a 
sous-prefecture of old houses, in department 
Deux-S^rres (population, 2,848), on a hill, in 
a fertile spot over the B^ronne, which dries in 
sunmier. It has remahis of old walls, a tower 
called Melz^ard, and the Sulphur Spring of 
Fontadan, which is found useful in cutaneous 
diseases. Woollens are manufactured; and it 
possesses a trade in grain, wool, trefoil seed, 
cattle, and especially in aeses and mtt/es, both 
of good breed, fliotet.— Des Yoyagenn. Three 
old Chdteaux, Lezay, Marais, and Boissec, are 
within a short distance.] 

Rail to F<Mitenay, &c. 

[Fontenay-le-Comte (22 miles north-west); a 
sous-prefecture in department Vendue, prettily 
placed on a hill over the river Vendue, In a 
plrin where four grreat roads meet. Popula- 
tion, 9,864. The college, or high school, is 
well built. The Fountain, which gives name 
to the town, is rather elegant. Notre Dame 
Church is a fine Gothic structure, with a wc'l- 
proportioned spire of 259 feet, a good portal, a 
copy of RaphaePs Transfiguration, and one of 
Lefbvre's best productions, over the altar. 
Trade in grain, timber, and wine. Hotel.— Du 
Chapeau Rouge.] 

Frontenay-Boliah (H miles). Pop., i,02«. 
Epannes (2i miles) 

llauz^ (6i miles), a little village, noted for its 

breed of atses, and having a good trade in spfrits, 

wine, and linseed oil. The high road to Rochefort 

turns off here. St. QeorgeS-dU-BoiB (5 miles). 

Surges (2i m.) Near St. Jean d'Ang^ly . 

[St. Jean d'Ang^ (17 miles south-east) a 

sous-prefecture of 7,297 souls; a station on a 

line from Taillebourg (see p. 194) to Klort, in a 

pleasant part of the Boutonue, having an 

old Benedictine abbey (now a school), and a 

large trade in Cognac brandy. Eotels.^De 

France; du Commerce.] 

Cbambon (3| miles); followed by ilgrefen- 

tlle (54 miles). Here is the Junction with the 
branches to Rochefort, on the south (A.), and to 
La )ioch«U«, on th4 BQnb (B.)i as followf * 



to Roohefort. 

The next ttatlon to Algrefenllle Is 

CUr^ (2| miles). And, at 7i miUs farther, is 
BOCBSrORT (9M milM it9m Paris). 

The station is near Porte de Charente. 

ttoTXLS.— Du Grand Pacha; de la Rochelle. 

This is a soas-pr^fectnro in department Charente 
Inf€ri«are of 83,334 sonls, seat of a maritime 
prefect, and a Naval DocJt-pard^ in a flat part of 
.the Charente, 10 miles from the sea, at Bade des 
Basques, or Basque Roadt. It was founded, 1666, 
by Colbert, the minister of Louis XIV. The 
Endish (who formerly held all this country till the 
time of Charles VII.) attempted to capture Roche- 
fort, in 1757, but without success ; and it was here 
th.Ht Lord Cochrane (see below), burnt part of the 
French fleet. It is fortified and protected by forts 
on the river, up which large ships may come to the 
quays. The oldest streets are regularly laid out; 
the houses are not more than two storeys high. A 
large Fountain stonds in Grande Place, or Place 
Colbert, so named after the founder of the town. 
There Is an extensive suburb rising up beyond the 
line of fortifications. 

The Chmxh of St. Louis, near the college, was 
rebaSt in 18B5; Notre Dame is modem. There 
wm also a H6ttl de ViUe museum, an obser- 
yatory, exchange, navigation school; foundling 
hospiUl, cemetery; and the civil hospital, built by 
the intendant, Bigon, who greatly improved the 
town, 1688-1710. The Botanical Oardens of the 
•chool of medicine are near the garden of the 
Maritime Pr^eet. A small mereantile port lies 
outside Porte If artron. 

But its most important feature is the Arsenal or 
Military Port (not open to strangers), the entrance 
to which is at Port du Soleil. It includes the large 
ehaotiers de construction (building slips) and 
floating basin; ateliers des fonderies, for cannon 
and steam-engines ; forges and sheet Iron works ; 
ateliers d'ajustage, or fitting shops; shops for 
capstans, rudders, blocks; mast-houses, workshops, 
Mw piUls, moved by Saubreuirs inachinery; 
jDorderie, or rope ho^se, 1,800 feet long; s«llq 
4'miqMi vr frgwury, im^ nn wharf { magMlQ d«i 



90 FlULiretii 



vivres, or Victualling OJIce, ah old building, in 
which are 40 ovens and machhiery for making 
biscuits; store-houses, 1,300 feet long; the Com- 
mandant, or Prefect's hotel; three casernci, or 
barracks, for the sailors and marines ; and a large 
now dock, in addition to two others. The Dagne, 
or convict depot, the inmates of which were 
sent off to Cayenne, 1852, is now turned into 
magazines. Outside the town is the HGpital de la 
Marine, a large building, or mass of buildings, by 
Tonffaire, with 800 beds in it, a museum of natural 
history and anatomy, a library of 6,000 volumes ; 
besides the public Library of 12,000. There is an 
Artesian well of hot mineral water, 904 yards deep. 
An avenue, called the Cours d* Ablois, leads up to it. 
Rochefort stands in a pestilential marsh, which, 
however, has been so well drained, at least in and 
around the town, that deaths, which were 1 hi 11, 
have fallen to 1 in 26. 

There are some iron and copper works in the 
town, with an horlogerie, or clock factory ; and a 
trade in wiiie, cognac brandy, grain, wood, fish, 
and salt. The Charente, though deep, is not navi- 
gable for large ships, except at high water ; while 
the largest have to wait for the equinoxes, to 
ascend or descend it. 

Rail direct to La Rochelle, passing St. Laurent** 
de-la-Pree, from which there is a short branch, 
8| miles, to Fouras, a bathing place, in view of 
the islands of Ol^ron, Aix, and Rd. It was near 
Aix that Napoleon, 5th July, 1815, gave himself up 
to Captain Maitland, in the Bellerophon, stationed 
off the coast to prevent his escape to America. 
Captain Dor€, afterwards a senator, had formed a 
plan for smuggling the fugitive away, but could 
not pass the British squadron. 

Between Aix and OMron, in a spot guarded by 
two forts, vessels take shelter from the high Winds 
which blow from the Atlantic. It was hero that Lord 
Cochrane (afterwards Dundonald) nearly destroyed 
tho French fleet, in April, 1 809. They had received 
notice of bis preparations, but contented themselves 
with drawing cables and booms across the har- 
bour. He broke through these, bearing down 
upon the French with his frigates and fire-ships. 
A panic seized them ; they cut their cables and 
ran aground, so that next momisig only two wer« 
afloftt. CoehrMie lifiudlod to Lord G«nbi«r, thf 




r 



220 



BliibSHiw^d iLLtTSTSATBO 



tSee. 4. 



like sodA-Waicj?, bicArbdnate of soda being the 
base ; and as they also contain iron, they are ex- 
cellent in all cases of debility of the stomach and 
bowels, bad clrcnlatlon, gout, Ac. Grande Grille 
is especially recommended for liver complaints; 
rHdpital and Source des Dames, for nervous 
affections and hysteria; the C^lestinst for irravel 
and diabetea, and for scrofula. Puits Chomel is 
stated by its diseoverer to be useful in eoasumption ; 
Bnglish patients have benefited from it by driUk- 
Ing the water mixed with tea or milk, and by 
inhaling the gases near the surface. 

From 19^060 tb 8e,0eQTiBitors frequent this spot lii 
tM seasaii. The old town offers little to the visitor, 
eteept the Tnir d'Horloge, and Mad. de BUnifne^i 
Jfettitf^-^boid-fashiotted building, with stone quoins 
fronting the river. The Pare, in the town, is the 
place of greatest resort. Omnibuses, horses^ donkeys, 
^0., are to be had in plenty for the JSxeurtims 
ground ; some of which are as follow : — 1 . Alltf e des 
Dames, or Avmue de Mesdames, a promenade on 
the way to Cusset, lined with poplars. 8. Cu88bt 
(pop. 6,454), at 2 miles by tramway, lies in a pretty 
valley made by the Sichon and Jolan ; and is an 
aileient |)lace with narrow streets, decayed walls, 
and part of a royal ChSUeau, rebuilt by LoUis XI., 
who, When prince, was pardoned here by his f li'ther, 
aJter the rebellion of the PraptaHe. Ah abbey 
Was founded here in 888, by h bishop of Nevers. 
There are mineral iq)ring8 here. 3. £d M&ittagni 
Pirti m miies) ; ia vieW of ih6 Ailiei> the mountatni 
of Perez, Ac. 4. C9te 8i.AMdhd{U miles), above th4 
pretty village of Abrest, a fine prospect over Boiir- 
bohnsis, Randan Porest, the Puy de Ddme, and 
Itoht Dore, the Limagne, and the Cantal range. 
$. Beyond Cusset, oii the inf to Mont Peffironx 
ktt various ebjects, as the flaut de la Ch^vre water- 
filil, U$ Wri'vdHfaetxjrfy the ^our or Gour Saillant 
(anolhei* fiUl), the Ardoisifere slate quarry (6 kil. 
Irohi Cusset), and then Mont Pe^roux, which com- 
Uiandi an immense view from the old ruined Castle 
M the Knights Temptai^ on the top. 6. Bourbon- 
t^tiikt Vhdiian (8| miles), a specimen of the feudal 
uknsion, including Riotn tbwer. It belongs to the 
tJottht of Bourbon-Busset's family. 7. Randan 
ChAteau (10 mii«s),onee a Benedictine abbeys and the 
seat of the Polignac, Rochefoucauld, and De Foix 
families, then of the Duke of Galliera, who bought 
^^ o! Madame Adelaide, sister of Louis Philippe. 



It stands in a forest, commanding a find view of 
Mont Dore, the Limagne, and Puy de Ddme. The 
picture^} and fVimiture are gone : notice the stained 
windows in the chapel, the large kitchens, Ac. £^t 
Chateau (124 miles), which belonged to Marshal 
d'Efiiat, who negotiated the marriage of Henrietta 
Maria with Charles I., and was the father of Cinq 
Marfl. The tapisfHes and earrings are also worth 
notice 8. ChdMchh (12| miles) and its waters^ 
amohg the hills of Auvefgiie. Rail to 8ftil-lM- 
Bains, a warm spring lieiftr lA Paliss^.] 

After Bt. Germain des Fosses {M ])receding 
page), the next statioii on the Moulins and Clef- 
mont-Ferrand lin^ is St. Retnl-dn-EoUat. 

ttoiitidltiiet (t miles), with tiie hills t>f Au- 
vef^e in the distance-. 

ClftfiHat (3| iniles), a sous-pr^fecliire ot &,t64 
souls, in a pretty spot on the Ahdelot, grew out of 
a Benedictine cell founded by the Bourbons, and 
has remains of a Chdteau (now the prison); a parish 
chui-ch of various styles; artd in its neighbourhood 
a chapel called Ste. Procule, which devotees fre- 
quent; with a mineral spring. Cardinal Dvprat 
and Abb^ Cb&tel were natives. The Bath$ cf Ftefty 
(see p. 219), are 1 2 miles to the east. Here the rail 
(42| miles) from Ikontlti^Olit H4 Lftpeyrouse, 
comes in. See page 225. 

We how enter thi fertile Limagne isH valley of 
the AUier) and the department of Ptty d6 DOin^. 

Aiguepene (6f iniieA), the Roman A^^ 
tparsasy in Auverghe, oh the LUiOh, hab the ehurdi 
of Hotre Dame; a mineral water; and (at the 
Hqtel de Ville, which was an Ursuline Convent), 
a statue of the (Chancellor TfiaptVai, bom at La 
Rdche Chateau, 1505^ Abbi DeliUe, tiie translator 
of Virgil, is also a native. Louis le Bourbon is 
buried in the Salute Chapelle, Which he founded in 
147G. Good stone and plaster, ftc, are quatried ili 
the hills of Montpensier and Chaptuzat. At UonX* 
pender, Louis VII £. was poisoned by his wife's 
lover. St. Mion mineral spring, and the old eh&teaii 
of Effiat, which was the seat of the Cinq Mars 
family, are in the neighbourhood. 

[At 2| miles to the east is the fine ehdteau of 
Handan, with its curious heap of spires and 
chimneys, and its beautiful grounds, — ^a goo4 
specimen of the old feudal chiteaux of France.] 



JOUtQ i5J] 



Hi.Vp-BOOK 70 FBANOB. 



m 



^ 



Fo^t IffQTl; (6i miles). 

Biom (3| miles), where the ro^d from Bourg«s 
f «ll8 in (s^e Route 48), is a sous-pr^fectar^, oq a 
hill, above the Ambone, and the second town in 
Auvergne, oyer which It has a good view from the 
church. To the west is the Puy de Pome range. 
The houses are constructed of dark Yolvic lara 
■tone. St. Am^blo church was built as far back 
fs 1077; but a better building is the Saintf 
(.Viopelle, built, 1383, by John U. of Bourbon ; here 
the archiTe$i are kept. An old c]Qck tower de- 
serves notice. The palais de justice wa^ part ^ 
the ^eat of th^ Gomtes d'Auvergne. In one of the 
l^laces, called Pr^-Madama, is a monument to 
(Sen. Dessaix. There are several fountains. Pop^- 
J4tl«n, 11,189. ira<#«<.—De Paris; du Palais; du 
Puy i\q Ddime. Correspond ance, 4 miles, to 
Cb|kt^lfay<mt TTith hot alkaline qu-ings, £;t9b- 
lissement dp Bains, ^c. B^il to Yolvic. 

[VolfiO (Hi miles by rail, 4^ miles soqth-vest 
frpm Clermont-Ferriiiid) is remarkable for i^ 
quarries oflAva,of great extent (with 4 granite 
mass in the midst), and for ^hc fine ruins of 
Toumoel Cattle^ the doiuon of which h^s fi 
poble prqspect of tt^e rich basin qf Limagne. 
^ little below it is the iieat of M. de Chabrol, 
Within t^ shor^ distance is the old Ca^Ue of 
Apchon, 9n thp edge of a precipice, wit|i the 
fine Oorge, or ravine ot Snvq^^ called Bout du 
Monde.] 

Oenat (H miles), followed by MOMSvsBBfND 
and its old church, in the suburbs of Olermont, 
Vhicfa is 4i miles from Gerzat. Local i^ail from 
Oerzat to M aringues. 

P]LBRllONT-FB|tEAKS. 

263 miles from Paris. 
POPUUXIQK, jS0,119. 
H0TXL8.— De la Paix ; de VBorop^ } de 1^ Foste. 

i^* OBJXcra of Noticb. — Oathedral — Church 
of Notre Dame du Port— Pascal's Statue— Puy de 
Dome, Ac. 

Capital of department Puy-de-D6mc, and chief 
place in Auvergne, a bishopric, Ac, and a very old 
city (the Augustontnutum of Ptolemy, and head of 
the ArvernI), vhere Pope Urban II. and Peter the 
B«r¥it Pf««P»»fs4 ti!« FjjTst Crufudfi, lp95. It ^fras 
ray^ed by ifte ||9rthmMi in \i^ ^^li (Jen^ry. 



It standi iq a most picturesque ppot, bet^eci) two 
small streams, the Tirctahie and Artier, on a lo^ 
hill {Mom Clartu^ where the castle stood), sur- 
rounded by higher hills, falling one way to the 
rich valley of Limagne (on the AUier), and rising 
the other way towards the Puy-de-D6me peak 
(5 miles), which gives name to the department. 

Auvergnfy the old province out of which the 
4ppartmpnt was taken, is an extraordinary regio^ 
of conical p^ks (called Puyt) of extinct volcanoeft, 
^nd has a Java poi^, yery fertile in some part?. (The 
word Puy cqmes from the Latin Podimn, f^n 
eminence.) It has been inyestiga^d by Scrop^, 
Elie de Beaumont, {ind other ^eologist^. /'(wca< 
was an Auvprgnat, bom in this to^ffn. 

The streets of Clermont are nqfsow aa4 |fr((g^ar 
and the housefi huilt pf dar^ Vol vie laaq^ mf^stlf 
whitewashed qver. It is well ^uppH^ ^rU.^ lY^^ter 
from Boyat, Ac. Promenades on the h^ul^vf^rdl, 
which are well planted, and cm i\xQ fiiquaros or 
Plapes. A°4^fir these i^re, P^ftce du Taurcau, 
which has a fountain in honour of Gfenef-al Desalx, 
with a prospect oi the Limagnp^ thp platcfxu qf 
GergOTia, ^pd tbe catitle on Mont Bqgnon ; Places 
de I4 Poteme ^pd p*£spagne, cpmmandlpg good 
views a]sq; Cour^ S^blon, ^hlph has a mixed 
Gothic or l^oni^iss^nce Fountain of three storeys, 
huilt 1615, by George; d'Aipboisq, topped by f 
statue of Pelille, the poet; and Place d'Armes', or 
De Jattde, 860 f ee$ long, so called after a miupral 
intermitting spring near it. It contams a statue 
of Dessaix, erected 1848. Jardin des Plantes is 
l^nother beaut|ful prpmenade. Omnibus$s run to 
all parts. 

The Cathedral^ built of dark lav« stone, betwe^ 
1248 and 1265, is a rather imposing Gothic struc- 
ture, continued 15th century, completed in the 19th. 
Length, 821 feet; breadth, 189; height, 106, to thb 
open lofty roof, which hangs on 56 light and well 
carved pillars. It has a good north ponch, a cose 
and other stained windows, and carved work in 
the choir; and there is a fine view from the tower. 
There were five towers before the Bevolution 
The spires are 260 feet high. 

I^otre Danxe-du-pQvt^ a genuine Romanesqne 
building, part of which dates from 853, is the oldest 
bt|ilding bore, and has some pprious decoratioii]^ 
(mosaic lu lavn), with an fljjcient prypt ft is 



r 



222 



BRAD8HAW*S ILLUSTBATED 



[Sec. 4. 



162 feet long, and yras restored in 1838. St. Oenis 
has modem painted windows. St. Eutrope, a hand- 
some new modern building ; at St. Pierre are good 
paintings. 

Other buildings arc, the Prdfecturo, in an old 
Convent ; Hotel de VlUe ; Lyceum or college ; com 
market, linen market; Hotel Dieu, and hospital. 
Library of 40,000 volumes (besides MSS.), begun 
by Massillon, w^hen bishop here; to which are 
attached a good cabinet of local minerals, with 
some Roman marbles, and Ramcy's statue of Blaise 
PoicdL, whose House is in Passage Vernino, near 
the cathedral. Museum^ with Gallo-Roman 
antiquities and a picture gallery (150 works). 
Large Botanical Garden. Bust of Delille. The 
cattle market and Somhiary are at Montferrand, 
towards which runs a fine avenue a mile long. 

Schools of art and science have been founded 
here, at the Palais des Facultds (built of brick and 
lava), where lectures on various subjects are given. 

In Faubourg St. Allyre^ near the Benedictine 
abbey of that name, is a curious mineral fountain 
(acid and tonic), with a Petrifying Spring, in a 
garden; which in course of time has made, by 
gradual deposits of carbonate of lime, a sort of 
dyke or traU, about 260 feet long and 13 broad, 
with a natural stalactitic bridge at the end, hang- 
ing over the Tiretaine brook, which supplies the 
fountains of Clermont. Flowers, fruit, &c., covered 
with this sediment are sold here. 

Manufactures of stockings, paper, hats, leather, 

confitures (apricot and other sweetmeats), and a 

trade in cattle, wool, cheese, hemp, fruit, and wine. 

The pa<a»« is a mlxtui-eof French and Provcn9al. 

As, for example — 

" Admlra sa m<nieis n, sou vnrdel, loii boaoage. 
Que aemble Jiuqu'au chlAii porta son biau fuliage,' 

quoted from a description by Francois Pcrdrix, in 

L. Piesse's Guide aux Eaux Thermalesdu Mont Dore. 

Rail to Lyons, St. Etienne, Montpelller, Bor- 
deaux, Toulouse, Bodez, Tulle (page 225), Aurillac, 
Limoges, &c., and Mont Dore and La Bourboule. 
For the rail to Thiers, see Route 53. 

Tramway to St. Mart. 

At St. Mart (U mile), to the west, is a third 

mhieral spring of good quality, brought into use 

since 1843. Hero is a large bathing-house and 

hydropathic establishment connected with the 

'n de Ctfsar. The very cflrly Romanesque 



Church of Chamalibres, and the donjon of Sauku 
Castle are at hand. 

In the neighbourhood^ which ofi'ers a profusion of 
remarkable Of^'ects, are Oergovie (6 miles), a fine 
point of view, and a Roman station, on a table- 
land, where Csesar was defeated by the Arvemi 
under Yercingetorix ; Mont Rognon (a peak of 
basalt), and its o!d castle; St. Vincent mineial 
water; Roche Blanche and its caves; Chftteaugay 
and its prospects; the caverns of Gravenoire. 
Boyat-les -Bains (by rail 3^ miles), a picturesque 
town with an old fortified Churchy Gothic Cross, 
on the Place, its grottoes, mills, falls, Ac, to the 
west, in a very delightful valley (1,310 feet above 
sea) at the source of the Tiretaine, under Puy de 
Ddme and Puy de Gravenoire (2,700 feet above 
sea). Here are four warm springs (65* to 96"), St. 
Eugenie being the hottest ; containing iron, soda, 
lithia, and being excellent for gout, rheumatism, 
skin disease, diabetes, chest and female com- 
plaints. Concert and Reading Rooms, and every 
accommodation . 

Hotel Continental. — Well situated first-class 
hotel. Lift. See Advt. 
[From Clermont to Puy de D6me, to the west, 
you pass over a lava soil to La Baraque, where 
the road turns ofl to Puy de Pariou, whieh is 
4,010 feet above the sea ; having a very regular 
crater, 800 feet deep, and 3,000 feet round the 
edge. Ascent of 6 or 7 miles to the 
Pny d6 D6ni6, which gives name to the depart- 
ment, and overlooks all the other pays. Of 
these about sixty may be seen from the top, 
stretching in a line 18 miles long (north and 
south), besides the peaks of Mont Dore (further 
south), the fertile plain of the Allier, «fec. It 
is 4,806 feet above the sea, or 640 feet higher 
than the Petit Puy de Ddme near It; and is com- 
posed of porous, crumbling stone, here called 
domite after the mountain, which takes its own 
name from its dome shape. Pascal made bis 
celebrated experiments on the weight of the air 
from this peak, now appropriately marked by 
a Meteorological Observatory on the site of a 
Temple of Mercury. There is a rhyme — 

"Si DOme «tait sur DOine 
On vemit les portes de Borne." 

Puy Chopine, Sarcoui,and de Come, to the north, 

are respectively, 8,908, 3,486, and 1,378 feet 



Route 46.] 



HAND-BOOK TO PBANCB. 



high. The forests about here are great places 

for making sabots, or wooden shoes, the men 

working at the business inthe open air.] 

From Clermont, after passing up the fine valley 

of the Allier, under Gravenoire peak, and Mont 

Rognon, with its old castle of the Dauphins on 

the top (1,880 feet), the next station is 

Sarll^yes (4J miles), near Gergovia, as abore- 
mentioned, where CsBsar was beaten by the Gauls. 
The Plateau de Gergovie (2,440 feet) has many 
vestiges of the ancici^ Gaulish town. 

Le Cendre (li mile). The Allier is now fre- 
quently crossed. 

Les Martres-de-Veyre (5 miles), in a beau- 
tiful spot near Puy de Mannan. 

VlC-le-Comte (2 miles). Population, 2,660. 

Coudes (4i miles), on the AUier, close to Mont 
Peyroux. Mont-Dore and its range of peaks are 
on the left. 

ISBOlre (Bmiles), a sous-prefecture of 6,182 souls, 
in a hollow, on the Creuze, having an old Churcfy of 
the 10th century. Copper kettles, &c., are made. 
IIoteL—De la Poste. It was the birth-place of 
Chancellor Duprat. ifont-Dore-les-Bairts is 22 miles 
to the left, up the valley of the Creuse ; passing 
the v^olcanic peaks and basalt cliffs, near Villetour 
Spa and Lake Pavin, which was once a crater, 3.50 
feet deep. Not far from this is another lake, 
called Chambron (abounding with fish), above 
which rises the old feudal Castle of Murol 

Le Breuil (6$ miles). 

Le Saut-dU-Loup (2J miles), on the Alagnon. 
Bra88ac(3| miles), in department Haute-Loire. 
Arrant (3J miles), where the line from Cap- 
denac falls in (Route 52). Then 

BrlOUde (6i miles further), an ancient town 
and sous-prefecture (department Haute-Loire), on 
the Allier. Population, 4,928. The Romanesque 
Chwch of St. Julien, one of the oldest in Auvergne, 
was rebuilt in the 10th century by William of 
Aquitainc, with five chapels round it. A fine view 
from the hill on which the college stands. Hotel.— 
Du Nord. 

La Vikille-Brioude (2 mile*) has a large single- 
arched lava bridge on the Allier, 181 feet span. 
At 14 miles to the east, on the St. Etienne road, is 
La Chain Dku, with the abb«y Church of Casa 



223 ^ 



Dei, 302 feet long, hi a fine Gothic stylo, begun 
by Clement VI. (a native) in 1343 ; and having 
a well-carved portal, 156 stalls, some old tapes- 
try, the founder's tomb, and a few remains 
of the abbey adjoining.] 

St. Georges d'Aurac (U miles), near Cha- 
ragnac Chateau, where Lafayette was bom. Here 
the rail goes on to Lcngeac, Ac, for Alals and 
Nlmes, as in Route 31 (In inverted order). 

Rougeac (4i miles). Tunnel and viaduct. On 
the left is Mont Brianpon, 3,416 feet high, from 
here, through a tunnel of 2,200 yards, and through 
four stations with fine gorges and bold scenery 
29 miles to ^' 

Le Puy, on a volcanic peak (see Route 28). 



Le Puy, past the source of the Loire to 
Privas, and to Aubenas. 

By road.— Distances: Le Puy to Aubenas, 51 
miles; Le Puy to Privas, 68i mi'cs. For the 
greater part of the distance there is no regular 
service of vehicles, which only run the first 12i 
miles to Le Monastier. From Le Bdage to 
M^zilhac (on the route to Privas) the road is only 
a simple country road. 

From Le Puy, as described in Route 28, to 
Briye-Charensac, after which the road follows 
the Loire, past Mont St. Manrice (2,730 feet), and 
Bouzols Chateau on a conical hill. 

At La Terrasse, 8i miles from Le Puy, are 
grottoes. 

Le Monastier (not to be confounded with the 
town near Marvejols), 8f miles further, is a town of 
3,769 inhabitants, with two small inns. A portion 
of the Abbey Church of St. Chaffre is of the 11th 
century. 

Pr^saiUes (8f miles), near which is the 16th 
century Chateau de Vachferes. The road, which 
just here is about 4,000 feet above sea, descends 
to the river Veyradbre, which it crosses. 

Le B^age (7 miles). From here a mule road 
runs past the Carthusian convent of Bonnefoy, to 
the top of the M^zenc (5,764 feet), an extinct 
volcano, which is the culminating point of the 
Cdvennes mountains. Time required fr- "' 
ascent, about four hoursi 



224 



bbidshaVs illustbaied 



[Sec, 4. 



[At Lo B^a^e the road to PtItm parts off to the 

left, and at about 6 miles from Le B4a^ It 

crosses the Loire near Its sonrce. The actual 

source is at the foot of the Oerbier de Jones, a 

a trachyte mountain about 2 miles distant, 

5,088 feet high. 

Ladiamp-Bapliael, about 12 miles from Le 

B^age, which lies nearly 4,400 feet above sea. 

About 7 miles from here are the waterfalls of 

the Bay-Pic, at the foot of an extinct rolcano 

surrounded by immense beds of lava. On 

leaving the next place, M^lilhao (8| milesX 

the rough rond runs the Coiron range of 

volcanic hills for over 20 miles to PriTas, a 

station connected by a short branch with 

Livron on the main line from Paris to Kar- 

sellles, soe l^age l^.} 

The road for Aubenas, after leaving Le B^age, 

orosces the Tarrpn to VsdadOB (H miles), then 

over the Loire, and by gradual iiscent to the cliffs 

ftf Tanargue. Qn the right is the Sqc de Baufon 

(4,836 feet), on the lef^ the Vestldfi du Pal (4,610 

feet), and after reachinir 4|SQ0 feet aboTO sea, the 

road desce^ids to 

l|0XltpezS^tr|K>U8-BauZ0B (8f miles), a toifp 
pt 2,^89 inhatiUants, wi^h ftn inn, the Hdtel dn 
Nord. From here the road crosses the Fontaull^re 
to iUmirnier (3 mll^s), and at about 8 miles 
farther crosses the Ard^che, where the Fontauli^M 
runs in. Yei^tadour Castle, of the 14th century. 

Then Pont-de-larBaume (the town of Jaujae, 

2,688 Inhabitants, under the Coupe de Jaujac, is 
8 miles off), and at 6 miles further, the station (nf 
I4 l^ffO^e, and Si mllej fur^hef yet, ^UDQIlftS, 
{se page 150. 

Orleans, up the Loire, to Qlen an4 
Neyers, 

^y Ball: Distance to Glen, 38 miles. 

Orleai^q SUttox^ as in Houte ss,. Gh^cF, 

near Co¥?leau^, where the C(jna| d'Orldans 
turns off to the Loing. St. Ddl^S-JqXgeau, for 
4ARGBAD, on the south side of the Loire (opposite 
St. Denis), at the bridge. It has a population 
pf 2,62(>, iipd ^as held by the English, under 
Suffolk, 14^1, when taken b^ the Due d^Alcu^pn 
and Joan of Arc. A feif :fe^rp l)^of f), Charles, 



Due d'OrMans, and his brother, tortaed a, league 
here, to revenge the murder of their father by ttie 
Duke of Burgundy; whose death they aecom- 
pllshed at Montereau (page 82). 

GhHteaimeuf-Slir-LoiTe, on the Loire, oppo- 
site the pretty village of Slglon (on south side), is 
so called from an old OastU. The church has a 
fine tomb of M. de la Yrilli^re. Excellent mataoUs 
(» mixed dish of fish), at the YlUe d'Orl^s hotel. 
[LoBsis (131 mllas 9*^\ on the Canal d'Orleansi 
though a marshy spot, was a seat of the kings 
of France, where St. Loi^is «lgne4 ^ treaty 
-^hich regulate^ thesucces8ioj\ o( the cQnnt]f of 
Toulouse. It gives name to the Cofitumes, or 
Customs qf LorriSy by which certain disputes 
were formerly allowed to be settled by duel ; 
p^entlemen using swords, and the bourgeois 
polgnards.] 
8i Boiei-St. Aignam, on the north sidft of the 
Loire, takes name from one of the earliest 
Benedictine abbeys in France, of irblch th» 
cruciform Oktaxh (of the Uth ceatnxy) reo^ins; 
St. llichael*s tower over the entrance has evrious 
carvings about it. The interior it put BomitA- 
osque. Tomb of Philip I. 

Lee-Boxdea On the Qth«r side of th« Loi^e (at 
the suspension bridge to St. P^re), is Slll^» near 
the old moated castle of the Tr^nioullles, which 
Henry IV. gave, with the title of duke, to ^is gfre#t 
minister Mot^Ut v^^o pcipted hlf^ M^moix4 in the 
Bdthune To^er. They show Henri Quatfe's 
chamber ; and it is said that Toltaire b^ai^ the 
Henriade [when staying here with hi« literary 
patron, the third duke. 

Oozouer-Piaapiem tnd 9uUwo^-B4au 

stations. 

Qien (7| miles), a station on the Bovboimais 
line described in Boute 2Q). 

Hence the rail ascends the rives^ 9(4 pDBIie, 
^c. (Bonte 80), to Nevers, described in Boate ^. 



Bonrffes to Neris-les-Baiiis and C}ermpiiV 

Ferrand. 

By rail to Clermont all the way, via Gajinat, 
page 220. 

Bourges station, as in Boute 45. 

Clid.t;eaiuieuf-sur-C^er (I4i miles). Fo^ula 
tlon, 2,614. Bemfi|ns q| an old c)iftte«u. 



Boate 48.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FJRANCB. 



225 



St. Amaad-Montrond (13} miles), a pretty 
8oas-i>rcfecture in department Cher, on the Mar- 
m.mde, near its jmiction with the Cher. PopolatiQU^ 
8,673. It has traces of Montvond Castle, which Ikj- 
lons^cd to Gaston de Foix (born here), the Due de 
Sully, and the great Condd; with an old Church. 
Hotel.— De la Poste. 

At 2 miles from it is Drevant, near remains of a 
Roman theatre, on the Cher, where statues and 
pavements have been found. 

VaUon (I6i miles). Bomaucsque Church, with 
a pretty spire." 

lK[0ntlU90n (14} miles) in department Aliier, on 
the rail from St. Sulpice to Moulins ; a «os«-pr€- 
fecture of 27,878 souls, in the wine conntiy by the 
Cher, on a hill; which has on the top remains of a 
Castle of the Dukes of Bourbon, now a barrack. 
Here the canal from Vierzon, vid Bourges, ends. 
Hotels.— De France; du Grand Cerf. Buffet. 

Line from Monti upon to Eygurande for La 
Bourboule, Mont Dore, Royat, and Clermont- 
Ferrand, see Route 51. 
[Rail from Montlnpon to Moulins, 51 miles. 
The first station is Chamblet-NerlS (6 miles). 
Correspondance to N£bis-les-Bains (5 miles), 
a small spa, known as Aqttoe Neri to the 
Romans, for its warm mineral baths, 
• which are nsed between May and Nov- 
ember, in cases of paralysis, rheumatism, 
tumours, and nervous complaints. The 
Springs are not only used by visitors but are 
also supplied to the houses for cooking. 
Population, 2,588. It has a large bathroom 
and hospital with 100 beds for the poor, gratis. 
The Jardin des Bains is on the site of a Roman 
Amphitheatre^ which can be plainly traced; 
columns, statues, and coins have been found 
here. The old Norman Churcfi is of the 11th 
century. //ofels.—Ve Paris; Leopold. 
Gommentry (2 miles), population, 12.618, in a 
coal bnsin, at the confluence of the CEil and 
the Banne. 
Doyet-la-Presle (6 miles), where a branch 

comes in from 
B^zenet (3} miles), under Montaigut, in the 

Piiy de D6me country. Population, 3,889. 
Ghayenon (9i miles), near Le Montel aux 
Moines. 



Koyant (13 miles.) 
P 



-SoUTlgny (5 miles). It has the large Bene- 
dictine abbey chwch of 'tlie'Ducs de Bouibon, 
with, their fine monumental effigies. The 
abbey was founded 913, by Aymardof Bour- 
bon ; the church is mostly of the 15th century. 
Parts of the town walls are left. Pop., 8,291. 
Moulins (8| miles), as in Route45. Chemin defer 
economique.U miles, Cosne BUT ICEil through 
BouRBOK l'Abcuambault, in a pretty valley on 
the Burge, so called after Charles the Simple's 
favourite, Aymard d'ArchambauIt, who built 
a Chateau, which had 24 towers, three of which 
remain, with other parts. Population, 4,008. 
At the old 11th century Church is a piece of the 
"true cross," given by St. Louis to his son 
Robert, when he married a Bourbon. The 
- Romans called this place A^ce Borhonis. An 
> HApital des Eaux stands on Place des Capu- 
cins, near the saline Springs. They are three, 
viz., the Fontaine Bourbon, a hot spring 
(temp. 122"), and the cold springs of Jonas and 
St. Pardoux, useful in paralysis, apoplexy, 
rheumatism, scrofula, and diseases of the skin 
and bones. Thereare bath-honsesandastembly 
rooms; also, remains of Rouian baths; Quiquen- 
grogne Tower; and an old mill, near a lake. 
Hotels.— T)e Montespan ; de France. 
Line from Moulins to Macon, via nilly « 
at Gilly is the junction for Boubbok 
Lanct (8 miles), in department Sa5ne-et- 
Loire, on a hill-side on the Loire, under an 
old castle, begun by Henry III., was called 
Aqua; Nisineii by the Romans, on account of 
its mineral Springs. Of eight, only one is 
cold; the others have a temperature of 68* 
to 135*, the hottest being that called Lymbe. 
Here are a bath house, church, two hospitals, 
bronze statues of Marquis d'Alig^e and his 
wife in the Place; and clock tower. Popu- 
lation, 3,881. Hotel.— De la Poste.] 
The direct rail from Montlu^on to Gannat, 43 
miles, opened in 1871, parts o£f at Comitientry 
(8 miles), as above ; and goes past Hyds (3} miles) 
and Lapesrrouse (7f miles), where a short branch 
turns off to Salnt-Eloi (5 miles); then Louroz- 

de-Bouble (6 miles), Bellenaye (6 miles), st 
Bonnet de Rocliefort (6i mUes), to Oannat 

(6i miles), see page 220. Thence to Riom and 

Clermont, page 221. 




^26 



ObftteiliirotUc to Hotitlii^n. 

By railway, 66 miles. 

From ClI&t6aiir011Z station, as in Route 43, to 

* Ardentes (8$ mllesX 2,677 inhabitants. The 
line follows the valley of the Indre. 

Noban't-VlCQ, (10 miles) has an old Romanesque 
church, with ancient frescoes, and a chftteau, once 
the property of George Sand, who is buried here. 

The line crosses the Indre to 

La ChItrb (3 miles), a town of 5,048 souls, in 
departm^it Indre, and a sous-prefecture, in a pretty 
spot on the Indre, Irith remains of a Castle, now 
a prison; curious Ghap^ in the Hotel de Yille, 
formerly a Carmelite Conyent; and many old 
houses. Hotel. — DeTBurope. 

There is a marble statue of George Sand in the 
square. 

The next station to La Ch&tre is 

Brlantes (4i miles) with an old Chateau. Then 

ChampUlet-ffrciers (Sf miles), from which 
there is a short line, 34 miles to Lavaud- 

FraxLChe, passing through fioussao. 

[BoussAC, in department Creuse, is a small sous- 
prefecture finely seated on a rock, over the 
little Creuse (where the Veron joins it), among 
precipitous hills. Above the village Ate the 
large remains of its ancient Cattle. Popula- 
tion, 1,344.] 

dlAttaaunielllant (4^ miles), with an old 
moated castle, a town of 3,952 inhabitants. 

Culah (7 miles) with a ruined eastle and a 
bridge over the Amoh. 

Conr-Vesduji (3 miles). 

St. P^Slr^ (3i miles), with a Romanesque 
church. 
Cour^aiS (3 miles), on the Qucugne. 

La Chat^elaude (61 miles). Here the country 
is much intersected by the Mouselle, the Magl^re, 
aad the Cher rivers, and by the Canal de Berry. 

La Vme-G02et (64 miles), and, at 11 miles 
further 

TWftTitin^on, see previous route. 



BRADSUAW 8 ILLUSTKATRO 



[Se€.<; 



Cidrmont-Ferrand to BOrdMuXi tiy way 
of Usset Ttllle, Brlve. and Pdrisnetiz. 

By Orlean* Line*. 

Clermont-FerraiLd staUon, as in Route 45. 

Boyat (3i miles, page 222), Volvic (9 miles, 
page 221), Font GilMlUd (II mUes, Chftteau of 
the Dauphins of Auvergue), LaQUenllle (16 miles), 
as in Route 51, where the road goes off to Mont 
Dare Baths. 

BonrglastiC-lteBSeiX (8 miles). Population, 
1,601, employed in the forges, <fcc. Eygurande- 
tferUnes iH miles), in department Corr^ze. 

UBSel (Hi miles). Population, 4,832. A sous- 
prefecture, among bare hiUa, between the Dibge 
andSarsonne; containing a fountain with a granite 
Roman eagle, and old turreted houses. Remains 
of a Roman camp and military way are seen. Motel. 
— ^Du Dauphin. 

Heymac(6f miles). Population, 4,112. Mines 
of bismuth and of wolframite. 

Bgletons (I2 miles), a market for com. Popu- 
lation, 1,832. 

]Biyrein (8i miles), on the Corrdze, which the 
line now follows. 

OOTrkM (2i miles). Population, 1,811. 

Gimti (3i miles) has a finely carved Gothic cross 
and a feudal Chdteau on the Montane^ and is near 
one of the grandest Water/alle in France. The 
river thmbles over the broken limestone rooks in 
a succession of five or six lei^ (though not visible 
all together), ohe of which is 188 feet down and 
16 wide; another is 85 feet down. From this it is 
8 miles to 

TULLK. 

On the branch fromUssel to Brive, at which place 
the Toulouse and Bordeaux line is joined. 

HoTBL. — De la Comddie. 

Population, 18,964. Chief town of department 
Corrbze (formerly the province of Bas-Limousin), 
seat of a bishop, a government factory for fire- 
arms, &c., in a narrow valley on the Corrdze (where 
the Solane taieets It) ; the rocky sides of which are 
tcrrttced with houses in the Gk>thic and Renaissance 
Atyied, surrounded by picturesque hills. Sarrasin 
and maize are grown. There are pretty walks on 
the quays and bridges. An old s%uiKre tower^ B&id 



^ 



Route 51.] 



HAND-BOOK. TO FfiANCB. 



22t 



to be Roman, stands above the tovirn, near the 
temeterj-. 

The half-Gothic Cathedral, marked by a fine 
slender spire, is in the Grand Place, wliere, also, 
is the Afaison Sa^e, a turreted house of the 14th 
century, ornamented -with arabesque and other 
carvings. Notice the Prefecture, Jesuit College 
(now a market), public library, a district prison, 
and a good hospital. 

The SmaV-arms factory (70 000 made annually) 

is at SoitWac {I mile) on the Solane, a riVer bordered 

by fine granite rocks. Many remains of Ihb floman 

Ttntiniacum, destroyed by the Vandals, exist on A 

plain 3J miles north, near which you get a rieMr df 

the Cantal mountain chain. In a ralley below is 

the Gordino Fall. Corrcspohdance to 

Arg6ntat (19 miles), on the bordogne, at the 

new wire suspension bridge, built 1828, by 

Vilat, 328 feet long, and 49 feet above the 

stream. It belonged to Turenne's family, ahd 

had an abbey of the 12th century. The Com- 

nmnal Library has a collection of Roman 

antiquities. Menhir, called Grave de Rolande. 

Papulation, 3,087. 

The next station from Tulle, down the Corrfezc, 

U Cotliii (4^ miles), then AtlbaziiieSt. tiilfiLlre 

(5 miles) to fellve (6 J miles), where the l*eriguou* 
line is Joined. For description of Brive, see 
Route 48. 
From BriVe, past LafClie (9f miles), to 
TetraluSOli (Bi miles), in Dordogne department, 
an ancient town on the V^zfere, here crossed by a 
large new bri<lge, with a Church and remains of 
an Abbey. Population, 3,66 1. It was called 
tetTacina. Hotel.— De Poste. OoHdat (H miles), 
near which is Moxtignac, on the V€zfere, above 
which Isthe ruined ca5/7e of the Comtesde Pdrlgord. 
Population of Montignac, 3,36S. Hotel — Posts 
The remains of Olivoux, once a Roman town, are 
at hand. 

Thenon (12J miles), population, 1,798; followed 
by Milhac (8 miles), 
[At 7i miles south-east on the line from 

Pdrigueux to Agcn is 
MiREMONT, with some of the largest cAves in 
France ; altogether, 4,600 yards long, and in- 
cluding 8,000 rooms and galleries, one of which 
is like the Thames Tunnel. Near this is the 
so-called volcano of Afeyssandiie, which they 



say burst out 1783. A little to the south-east, 

at Bugue, is the pit called 7V*ow de Pomaissae^ 

whence flames, or at least, sulphur vapours, 

have issued ; and into which robbers used to 

throw their victims in old times.] 

lilvetsac (5? miles), where the P«5rigueux to 

Agen line tums off. Hence 7^ miles to P^llgueui 

station, whence it is 49 miles to Coutras, from 

which it is 37 miles to Bordeaux. See Routes Bt 

and 44. 

I^OTJTE 51- 

Montlu^Ofi to Eygitraiide (Junotlon for La 
BourbotUe, Le Kont-Bord, <uia Cletmo&t'' 
Fertand). Maurlac, and AtttiUac. 

(Direct — Orleans line from Paris to Aurillac). 

ilontlucon. see Route 48. 

The line crosses the Cher to 

Llgnerolles (5} miles), and passes through 
nnnicrous cuttings, leaving to the left the ruins o^ 
Clifitcau de I'Ours (IStli century) to 

Teillet-Argenty (3f miles) and dudell^re- 

ChambOIl (3 miles). Then across the Tardes to 

EvauJC-ldd-Baiild (3 mlles), a bathing placi 
with many hot springs (130* to 80*), and an etab- 
lissement thermal. Poi^ulation, 3,040. Retdrfd 
(5J miles). 

AUzah(ieS (df miles), with a l2th (tnd IStli 
century church, containing a picture by D. da 
Vdlterra. 

From here it is 59 miles, the station being un- 
important, to Sygutahde-BIerliiies, where the 
line from Limoges to Chermont-Fcrrand crosses. 

From Eygurande-Merlines, 51 miles to Clermont- 
Ferrand, past the stations of Bourg-Lastic, 
Laqueuille, Pont Gibaud, Volvic, and Royat, as in 
Route 50. 

From LaOLUeullle station there is regular com- 
munication to La Bourboule and Mont-Dore, 
uescribed below. 

From dlermont-^errand station, desciibed in 
Route 45, there are three ways to Afont-Dore ; the 
most direct, by way of Ceyrat Raudanne, 27 miles; 
the other, by way of Rochefort, 83 miles ; the 
newest and most usual— by rail to Laqueuille. 

1. I'his route passes Puy de Qravenoire and its 
lava beds, 2,723 feet high, one of a range of Puys, 
varyifag from 2,790 to 3,350 feet In height, as Puy 
\ de Charade, de thddts, de dar^dt, de Cftaptfitt, di^ 



^ 



228 



BBADBHAW'S ILLUSTRATED 



[Sec 4. 



Dnret, de Paaredon (villa^re of the 8ame name), 
de la Meye, and de la Yachc, near 

Randcmne^ a qpot broaght into cultivation by 
Count Montloisir, who died in 1888, and lies buried 
in his park here. Then follows a succession of 
higher peaks, from 3,600 to 5,400 feet high, all, like 
the first, evidently of volcanic origin : these are Puy 
de Montchal, de la Toupe, de I'Enfer, near Caban- 
nes; then Puy de Pessade or de T Aiguille, often 
covered with snow in summer; Puy Baladou, Puy 
de la Croix Morand, and Puy de Tache, the highest 
around here, and close to Mont-Dore-les-Bains. 

3. From Clermont, by the second route, passing 
under Puy de Ddme and Mont Serre, you come to 
Chamali^re church, near the valley of Royat. 

BocBEFOBT (18 miles from Clermont), near La- 
QneuiUe station, is in a deep valley on the Sioule 
under Puy d* Ang€re, with an old castle on the top 
which belonged to the Counts of Auvergne. To 
the south of it is Murat-le-Quaire, 1} miles from 
La Bourbonle, in a pretty spot on the Dordogne. 
Then past Qu^nreilh (15 miles) to 

MONT-DORE-LES-BAINS, 
the ancient Moru Durianus^ a watering-place in a 
picturesque valley, about 8,400 feet above sea, at 
the head of the Dordogne, between Pic du Capucin 
and Puy de TAngle, one of the highest (5,610 feet) 
of the Mont Dore range. It Is a region of snowy 
volcanic peaks, fine woods, valleys, and waterfalls; 
a sort of a miniature Switzerland; and one of the 
most curious and inviting in France, both for 
tourists and invalids. It should be examined by 
the aid of Detmarest's geological map of Auvergne. 
The temperature is sharp aud dry, but somewhat 
variable. There are 10 or 12 Hotels (Grand Hotel, 
Ac.) ; living, 5 to 20 francs daily ; besides attend- 
ance, which is paid for in the lump (10 to 20 francs). 
The season lasts from loth June to 15th September, 
after which snow lodges on the peaks. Both 
summer and winter clothing should be taken, as 
the temperature varies rapidly. A large Thermai 
EsteMiskment is built of trachyte, or lava stone. 
The Springs are eight — two Ste. Marguerite and 
Tambour, being cold, and the rest hot, at a tem- 
perature of 114* to 100* Fahr. One hot spring 
Is called Bain de Cesar; another Source CarMne, 
after' the Duchess of Berry; another, Ramond. 
They arc useful in cases of rheumatism, early con- 
sumption, neuralgia, throat disease, nervous and 



in fl a mm atory eomplahtts, and scrofula, the chief 
constituents being bicarbonate of soda and chlo- 
ride of sodium, with a little iron and arsenic. 

From traces of a Roman Temple and Baths ob- 
served here, this spot appears to have been known 
to that people. It afterwards came to the family 
of La Tour d* Auvergne, Ac, Tne inhabitants are 
mean and dirty. The roads are good. 

Exatrrions may be made. 1. Up the valley 
of Mont Dore to Pic du Capuein (2 miles), across 
the little wire bridge on the river, and so called 
from a rock near the summit, which gives it a 
likeness to a monk's hood; and the wild Oorge de 
Us Couvy or dEnfer^ 1 mile f uriher. 3. To SaUm 
de Mirabeau, named from the orator's father, wlio 
visited here, 1787; la Femi^e fall; the Plat iiBarbe^ 
a pool in a ravine; and the Grande Scierie saw- 
pits; 8| miles in all. 3. Along the Dordogne to 
La Bourbonle (S miles), a pretty village In a 
valley, with rocks 2,400 feet high to 2,700 feet hi(>h. 
Hotels: Villa Medicis, situated near the baths. 
Good cuisine; electric light; telephone. See 
Advt. 

Sarclron-Rainaldy (formerl j Chabanry, Aind).— > 
Very well situated. Lift. See Advt. 

Des lies Britanniques; Grand Hotel Ferrey- 
roles; deTUnivers; des Ambassadeura, Ac. 

This bathing place is noted for its hot arsenical 
springs (up to 123*), beneficial in scrofula, tumours, 
asthma, chest and skin but not liver diseases, and 
intermittent fever. Two Bath Uoums, Casino, 
two Theatres. On Roche Vemleix (I mile), which 
is 3,875 feet high, stood La Tour d'Auveryne^ 
which, as Froissart relates, was occupied in 
Charles YI.'s reign by M^rigot, a robber chief. 
4. Qu^ureilh and Rossignolet Falls (one is 49 
feet down), on the Randanne road; Query Lake^ 
deep and well stocked with fish; the peak of 
Sanadoirt (4,265 feet), a solitary mountain, once 
guarded by a fort; Roche Tuilih'e^ composed of 
lamellar basalt, which splits Into tiles for building ; 
5 miles in all. From this it is 4| miles to OrcivcU 
Churchj a fine Romanesque structure, of the 10th or 
11th century, in a deep valley. 6. To St. Nectaire^ 
by Dpanne, the highest village (4,876 feet) in 
Lower Auverg^ne; then the ruins of Murols Castle 
(9| miles), and its pretty village, in a forest under 
Puy Tartaret ; Lake Chamb<m^ on the Cotue, with 
its little islands of verdure ; and then St. ifectair^ 



Aonte 52.] 



Hand-book to ^'rancg. 



220 ^ 



(8 miles). A fine waterfall in the valley of Chaude- 
fow. 6. To VASSiYiiBES (7i miles), noted for its 
cutlets and a statue of Notre Dame ; the desolate 
Lake Pavin^ in the crater of a volcano (3 miles), and 
the old church and village belfry of Bessr, which, 
like other places here, is built on beds of lava. 
7. Grande Cascade (1 mile), which winds lOS feet 
down a slope of Puy de TAugle, an J runs to the 
Dordogne; the Cascade of the Serpent, near the 
head of the Dogne; and Gorge des Enfers, with 
its heaps of broken columns of basalt. Over Puy 
de Cicadogrne to the head of the Dore, which unites 
with the Dogne to make the Dordogne. 

Eygurande to AurlUac, 85 miles. 

The stations on this line do not offer anything 
of special interest apart from the somewhat bold 
and rocky country which is traversed. The prin- 
cipal are : — 

Bort (Corr^e), 21 miles from Eygurandc, in a 
fine valley of the Dordogne, under Orgues de Bort 
or Saney, a rugged basaltic peak, of great extent. 
It is the birth-place of Marmontel. 

Conespi>ndance to Champs, Condat, and Mar- 
cennt. At Condat are a pllgrim-churuh, and 
mineral petrifying springs. 

Hauxlac (about 24 miles), a sous-prefecture 
(department Cantal), under a volcanic peak, near 
the Dordogne. Population, 3,630. Notre Dame 
des Miracles is a curious churchy of the 11th and 
r2ih centuries, with ancient carvings about it The 
old ruined chapel of St. Mary commands a fine 
prospect. One fountain to the memory of Mont- 
yon lias an inscription by Marmontel, who here 
went to school. Hotel. — De I'Ecu de France. 

At VleBcamp-Bor-Jall^S (page 209), the line 
from Figeac to Aurillac Is joined, passing through 
Ytrac to 

AURILLAC, 

Population, 15,824. 

Hotels. — Du Commerce; de Bordeaux; des 
Trois Fr^res. 

The capital of department Cantal, in Auvergna, 
in a beautiful valley, by the Jordanne, on lava 
deposits, which, in past times, ran from the 
extinct volcanoes of the Cantal Mountains, which 
•re in sight. Houses built of slate; the streets 
•re broad, and refreshed by running brooks from a 
reservoir in the upper part of the town. A pro- 
menade, called Le Gravier, lies along the river 



from the Cows Montyon, so called after a benefactor 
whose column is here, and who bequeathed the 
fund for the Montyou prize, which is at the dis- 
posal of the French Academy. In Faubourg St. 
Etienne is a tower of St. Stephen's castle, which 
belonged to the Comtes d'Auvcrgnc. The churches 
of St. G^raud and Notre Dame have some pictures. 
A statue of Pope Sylvester II., by David d* Angers, 
was set up 1851, on the Gravier. 

Among the public buildhigs there are a Hotel de 
la Prefecture, Hdtel de Ville, with a public library 
of 7,000 volumes and a cabinet of minerals ; a col- 
lege, corn hall, theatre ; also st<tbles for hunters, of 
Arab, English, Norman, and other breeds; and the 
Hippodrome (i mile off), or race-course, where races, 
attended by great numbers from all quarters, take 
place the first fortnight in June. 

Pope Sylvester II., Mai'shal Noailles, and 
General D'Estaing were natives; as was the 
infamous Carrier. 

Rail to Toulouse, Clermont, Limoges, Tulle, 
Rodez, Montauban, St. Flour, &c. 

Within a few miles are the old Castles of Carlat, 
Yalduces, Misilliac, Espinassol, and Sedaigncs- 
Yout^; the pretty valleys of Raulhac and Mar- 
nagnac; the grottoes of Laroqueveille, and the 
mineral UKUers of Cropi^res and Tessibres les 
Boulles. Near Toumemire (8 miles), on theDoire, 
is the feudal Chdteau o/AnJony, with its old towers, 
furniture, tapestry, paintings, all in good condition. 



Olermont-Ferrand to Toulouse, by way of 
iBsolre, Rodez, Albi, and Tessonni^rei. 
Clermont to lisoire and Arrant, as in Route 

45. From Havant by rail to 

Lempdei (3 miles), where coal is found. Than 
past Blesle (8 miles), where are the picturesque 
rocks called Orgues de Blesle, to 

Masslac (3f miles), in a gorge on the Alagnon. 
in department Cantal. From here the rail passes 
up a series of terraces to Molompize ; Ferrl^re- 
St-Mary Oi miles); and NeuBsarguei, the 
junction of a line to Marvejols (page 149). 

From Neussargues, the .line to Marvejols 
proceeds to 

St. Flour (2 miles), a sous-prdfecture in depart- 
ment Cantal, and seat of a bishopric, on a basalt 
precipice, 830 feet above the high road. It was 



T 



^ 



BRADSHAWB IU4J8TRJLTBD 



tSec:4» 



built about the rear 1000, and has a Gotbic ^/Ar- ' 

^rt^ of the lath century, the conrent of the , 

Jacoblna, a fanner seminary, and a viev from the j 

bi4bop*s palace, aa well as other pi^ta, of Plomb de 

CantaL Ac. Population 5.90^ , 

Hotel*. — De Poste; de U Femme-sanv-Tete. 

^^ i 

From St Floor, eorrespondance to \ 

CBai;DBa-AjG vsa, ix.. Hot Springs, which lies in a 
deep gorge of the mountains bet veea jturergne and 
G^vandan. Five springs, varying in temperatiire 
from 135* to 177* (which U tlie heat of thai called 
Source du Pary, are used not only for the bath and 
drinking, bat for cooking, for batching rhirkfns, 
vashing fleeces, and other purposea. HoUU. — Hu 
Midi; de Paris. 

La 6iriOLB(20 milas), in d^artmaot Aveyron.isa 
healthy place of 2,100 sonls. on a basalt peak, 
nearly 3,30(1 feet abore the sea. They make good 
Roquefort cheete here. 

From St. Flour to Manrejols (43| miles), the 
principsil stations being, W^ QtM^ (population, 
1,997) and AvinODt (populniipn, l,2i''3). 

IfarVifllJoiU, a town of i,672 people, see page 149. 

From Neussargues, the next station on the line 
to Auriilac is Mnrat l6i miles), a sous-pre'fecture 
in department CantaU on the Alagnon, among the 
basalt biUs round Mont Caiital. Population, 3.203. 

One hill, Soche Bonneric, with a basalt cliff, in 
which are prismatic pillars (some dO feet long), 
has the old castle of Jacques d'Armagnac on top. 
To avoid the steep road beyond this, the Tunnel of 
Lioran, about 5,000 feet long, was cut, 1839-47, 
throogh the T<4canie heights which divide the 
Alagnon and C^re. It comes out near the old 
road, between Pay de Griou and Plomb de Contain 
which is 6,095 feet above the sea, and a centre of 
a range of extinct volcanoes, as Pay Mary, Pay 
Chavaroche, Ac., in continuation of those in Puy 
de Ddme. The Plomb is a smooth cone, around 
which twenty or thirty streams (the head waters 
of the Dordognc, Lot, Allier, inc.) take their rise 
almost as regularly as the spokes of a wheel. 

The next station is lie Lloraa (7 miles). 

The Ilailwiv.' Tunnel of Le Lioran is G,400 feet 
long, and the viaduct which follows it 105 feet high. 
8t. Jacques (3f miles), Thl^zac (4 miles) ; then 

yiC-flir-C^ (3i miles), in the beautiful valley 
of the C^re, which the line descends, rtd Fol- 
lies) and ArpaJ<Hl iH miles) to 



^^^"t^ (' miles>. the cbieC town of the depart- 
ment, ace precediaif Rovtc. 

After Aarilbw the atationa are Ttmc (44 miles % 
Baogrt (10 mUes). BdiM«i (0 mile»X HUm 
(J\ miles) with 2.99S inhabitaats. thence over the 
Ranoe and alon? the Cele, whieh is frequently 
crossed. 

Next comes FlgeftiC; for which and the rest of 
the line to Capdeoae^ for Toulouse, see Route 43. 

From Capdenac the line for Rodez. 4*2 miles long, 
runs by yvriez, KarcUIaC, ^c., as d scribed on 
page 210. The district traversed contains a large 
number of collieries and iron forges and fouudriesw 
The industrial town of DeC9S8Ville, to which 
there arc lines from Viviez and Marcillac. ha<( 
8,871 i:ih.^.bitants. 

RODEZ, 

PopinuATiov, 16,1SS. 

HoUU.—Htes Princes ct du Midi; de France; 
d* Armagnac (aa old house). 

The chief town of department Aveyron (formerly 
ofthe province of Rouergue), in Gniennc, scat of a 
tribunal. Ac finely placed in a healthy spot, on the 
crest of a hill, 1 50 feet above the Aveyron (3 bridges^ 
which winds round the bottom, and 2,170 feet al>uvc 
sea. It was the ancient Segodunum a capital of 
the Ruteni (from whom comes the modern name), 
so called from their goddess Ruth or Venus. 
There are remains of a Roman aqncdact and am- 
phitheatre. Rhodanoi* monep was coined here by its 
eariy counts, in the Rue de Saounario (•'.«., sous- 
factory), where the mint stood till 1824. The 
chateau is gone, except the Martelibre tower, built 
1264, now a prison ; it was taken by the English in 
the 14th century. The town is badly built, with 
small dirty steep streets of antique wooden houses 
(a very curious one in Place I'Olmet), but the 
neigbbourhuod is pleasant. 

The Cathedral^ of reddish sandstone, is the best 
building, and stands on the site of one founded in 
the 5th century, which fell 1275, when the new one 
was commenced, but not finished till the 16th 
century. It is cross-shaped, 320 feet long by 118 
feet wide, and 109 to the vault. (Contrary to 
custom, it has no west entrance, the doors being at 
the sides. Over one of these stands an excellent 
carved tower, built 160), 253 feet high (and »ee» ]8 



Boiite SS.] 



IfiigaQS off), sqa^rt) a^ tbf boUopii but elght-9i4e4 
towftrda the t<)P, w)i}c)i |s crowned by pinnacles 
(with the four evaug^lis^ on them), a dome, and a 
statue of the Virgin. It contains a good screen 
and other carved worfc, and some old-fashioned 
•talne4 wiudovf s. When threatened at the Revo- 
lution, some friends of art thought of dedicating 
it to Karat 1— a derive which was the means of 
saving it. 

St. Amans* Church, 12th cent., has a high tower. 
The Cordelier convent Is of the 14th century; a 
government stud Is established at the Chflrtrense 
convent. At the Collej^e, first built by the Jesuits, 
is a Library of 1 6,000 vols., and a cabinet of natural 
history, Ac. Notice the Prdfccturc, new Palais 
de Justice, Seminary, bitihop'g palnce, a dcnf and 
dumb school, and the departaiontnl nursery. 
Statue of Archbishop Affre. In 17St, Abbd Car- 
nus, a man of scioncp. asconded here in a balloon of 
66 feet diameter, to the hei-ylit of If mile, staylnjr up 
Z6 minutes, to the great astonishment of the people. 

The Caves of SoUnc are 2| miles off; ond some 
pretty falls at Salles-Comtaux (about 7J miles 
north), in the rocky and well -wooded valley of 
Marcillac (Route 4o). This is one of many charm- 
ing valleys about Rodez, little known or visited, A 
dolmen at pcfignagols (5 miles). 

Rodez is connected by rail with the general 
Midi system by a branch to S^verac, see page 
100. Rail projected to C9Xm^.\U. for Albi (below) 
Road, 39 miles, to Carmaux, passing through 
Barague de Fraysse (near which is the large 
spring of Vors, supplying Rndcz with water), 
and Carcenac-Peyrales, and near to Sauveterre- 
d'Aveyron, a town having ramparts of the 14th 
century, 1,917 inhabitants. Another town near 
which the road passo Is Pampolonne, 1,813 in- 
habitants. Over the Viaur to Tanus, and then, 
12J miles further, over the Cdrou to Carmaux. 

Rail of 10 miles from Oarmaux (population. 
9,691) to Albl, constructed 1854, to facilitate 
access to the iron and coal mines. 

ALBI, 

where the Orleans and Midi systems connect; 
and from whence a line runs down, ridCastres, to 
Castelnaudary, on the branch line from Bayonne. 
(See Route 66). 



PiSrp-'PQPK TO VRAVCB. 

PoruLATiOH, 20,903. 

Hotels. — Des Ambassadeurs ; 




du Nord ; de 
Cassagne. 

The chief town of department Tarn, seat of an 
archdiocese, having a tribunal, communal college, 
Ac. It was the Roman Civitcu Albiensium, but is 
more memorable for giving name to the AIbigen$e$^ 
or Albiffeois, who were exterminated by the papai 
crusade in the 18th century. It stands over the 
river Tarp, in tl^e middle of a fiue plain ; and, like 
all old towns, is made up chiefly of narrow streets. 
A new brick bridge crosses the river. Promenade, 
in Vigan quarter, near the gardens. Each quarter 
is ornamented with fountains; the best being that 
of Verdusse, where four sprinj^a unite, and flow 
thence into the river. In the Faubourg du Pont, 
across the latter, are remains of Castelviel Vozt. 
There is a statue of La Pcrouse, the naviirator. 

The brick-built Cuthodral of »S<. CccVe was l . 
gun 1282, an.l finished 1012. L«n-th, S-J5 foei ; 
breadth, 89.i; heij^ht of i\io vault, OS J ; of the \ve-t 
steeple. 250. Three beautifully-decorated doors 
lead into the porch, wliich divides the choir ami 
nave, and is covered with sculptures of extrnor- 
dinarj- delicacy. The roof of the nave is orna- 
mented with a multitude of subjects from the 
Bible, including angels, patriarchs, prophets, 
saints, martyrs, «fcc., painted in fre$co, on a blue 
ground, set off by arabesques in white and gold. 
They were begun 1502, and are in the best stylo 
of the Italian school. Some elegant carvings, and 
seventy-two statues, adorn the choir. A Council 
met here 1176, to condemn the Albigcnses. 

The tower of St. SaJvy's Church is in the Moorish 
style, and it has a large nave. Other buildings arc 
the Prefecture, an immense edifice (restored), 
which belonged to the Counts of Toulouse, and 
afterwards to the archbishops ; Palais do Justice 
in the old Carmelite convent ; the college: a public 
Library of 14,000 volumes, museum aud cabinet 
of natural history ; and theatre. 

Rail to Toulouse, Castres, Rodez, Milhau, 
Gaillac, Montauban, &o. 

From Albi, the Rail for Toulouse proceeds vid 
Marsac (5f miles) to the junction at 

Tessonni^res m miles), on the Capdenac line, 
see Route 43. 



T 



232 



BRADSHATT's ILLUSTRAT)iD HAl^D-BOOK TO TBAKCE. [SeC 4. 



I^OriTE B3- 



Olermont-Ferrand to Thiers, Montlurisoii, 
St. £tiexme, and Lyons. 

Dy %'aH tu Thiers, Montbrison, <fec. 

Olermont Station, as in Route 45. The line 
passes Ihty-de-PeOge^ a basalt peak, with a springs of 
uilnenil pitch or bitamen. Puy-dc-Crouelle and 
Oandaillat are near it, with similar springs. 

The first station is Anlnat (3f miles); bridge 
over the Allier to 

Pont-dU-Cllftrteau (4^ miles), at the three- 
arched bridge on the Allier, near the old Ch&Uau of 
the bishops of Clermont, in a fine part of the 
Limagne. 

The next station is Veitalzon (If miles), with 
a branch of 5| miles to BlUom, an old town in 
the hills, remarkable for the stormy weather and 
excessive rain to which it is subject. It has an 
ancient Church. Population, 4,880. 

This is followed by LezoilZ (5f miles), an old 
town in a pretty spot near two ch&teanx. Then 

Pont-de-Dore (6i miles), on the river Dore, 
from which the line, via Courty (Junction), was 
opened to Thiers in 1872. 

Tblers (16 miles fr jm Pont-du-Chftteau), on a 
picturesque rocky peak above the Dore, is a 
sons-prdfecture (in Pny-de-Ddme) of 16,814 souls, 
oommandinga fine vievoot the Limagne, Clermont, 
Mont Dore, Ac, from the terrace near the old castle. 
Two.'churches,3Du Mofitiers and St. Gcn^st, are of 
the 8tb and 12th centuries. On the river in Basse 



YiUe stand many paper mills and forges for cut- 
lery (employing 12,000 here and in the neighbour- 
hood); scabbards and gunpowder are also made. 
A pretty waterfall is seen at Trou d'Enfer. 
Hotels,— T)e Paris ; dc T Aigle d'Or. 
[From Courty a line (32 miles) runs to Ambert 
(32 miles direct from Clermont), a sous-prd- 
fccture, on the Dore, among hills, in the 
Livradois, . with a population of 7,907, who 
make linen, and excellent paper for printing, 
engraving, Ac. In the neighbourhood, there 
are fine prospects from Pierre-sur-Haute (the 
Alps seen) and Mont Fuuenol (the Cantal and 
Pny-de-Ddme, seen) ; and the mineral springs 
of Talsau. From here the line is to be 
continued to La-Cliaise-Diea (20 miles), 
with an old abbey church, and (4o miles) to 

LePuy.] 

From Thiers the rail for Montbrison proceeds to 

Nolr^taUe (13 miles), near which is the 
Ermitage de P^rotiue. The next station of im- 
portance is Sail-SOUS-GoUZan, with hot baths. 
Excursions up the Lignon Valley. 

Boon (16 miles), on the Lignon, noted for good 
wine. 

At 10^ miles further is Montbxlson station, 
from which a line runs by MOfitTOnd and 
L'Arbresle, 49 miles to Lyons (St. Paul 
Station). Montbrison and Montrond are described 
in Route 25. 

From Montbrison to St. Etlenne, 31 miles, vid 
Bonson and St. Just. From Bonson rail to 
Brioudc (Route 45) by St. Bounet. 



1 



SECTION V. 

BOADS TO THE EAST. 



IN CONNECTION WITH THE GHEMIN DE FEE DE L'EST; SUPPLYING REIMS, 
MEZIERES, CHALONS-SUR-MARNE, TROYES, BAR-LE-DUC, CHAUMONT, NANCY", 
EPINAL, VESOUI^ BOURBONNE-LES-BAINS, PLOMBIERES, METZ, THIONVILLE, 
(BADEN AND FRANKFORT), STRASBOURG, WISSEMBURG, COLMAR, MCHLHAUSEN. 
BASLE (THE RHINE AND SWITZERLAND); IN THE OLD FR0VIN0E8 OF CHAM- 
FAONE, LORRAINE, ALSACE, AND FRANOHE-GOMTE. 



SUB-SECTION A.— ROUTES VIA THE STRAS- 
BOURG LINE. 



Paris to Heaiiz, Epemay, Gh&loni, Nancy, 
Strasbourg, and Milblliaasen. 

Einbarcadbre, or tenninus, Rue de Strastranrg, 
near the Northeni Railway. The great arch of the 
roof is surmounted by a colossal figure, emblematic 
of Strasbourg. Length of the platform, 544 feet ; 
breadth, 150 feet. The line was begun 1812, and 
opened throughout, 1852. Distance to Strasbourg, 
812i miles. The French part of the line ends at 
Avricourt, on the new German frontier. 

The line traverses La Villette^ near the new 
fortifications and the basin of the Canal de TOurcq, 
from which the canal of St. Martin runs down to 
the Seine, feeding many of the Paris fountains. It 
was made 1806-9, and is half a mile long. Thence 
the rail follows the Canal de TOurcq to Meaux. 

Belleville^ near La Yillette, has a fine view over 
Paris from its country-seats, and an aqueduct, or 
reservoir, built by Philippe Augnste, and restored 
l&l?. Here the pupils of the ^cole Polytcchnique 
distinguished themselves, 1814; it was the strong- 
hold of the Communists, 1870-71. — Romainville^ a 
little further, also commands a view of the city, 
and is covered with woods and ginguettes for 
pleasure folks ; a detached Fort and reservoir 
stand on it. The latter is Joined to another at 
Pr^ St. Jervais. 

Pantin (Sf miles). 

Nolsy-le-Soc (1| mile), on the Paris Ceinture 
Une, called Nicidum in an ancient charter, was the 
property of that Cardinal Balne whom Louis XI. 
shut up in an iron cage. Here the Troyes line 
turns oCr, and a branch opens to Epinay and 

Acberes. 



Bondy (li mile), an old village of 2,600 souls, 
near a forest where Childeric II. was killed, and 
Anbry de Montdidier was murdered by Macaire 
(who fought his victim's dog— the dog of Mon- 
targis — ^bcfore Charles V., at Notre Dame). A 
branch Rail^ made 1875, to Raincy-PaYlllons, 

Oargan-Uvry, Abliaye, and Aulnay-les- 

Bondy (Route 6) ; thus joining the Soissons 
and Chftlons lines together, outside Paris. 

Le Raincy-VillemomUe (li mile). Le 

Raincy Chdteau belonged to Louis Philippe, who 

laid out the grounds in the English style; the 

House is something in the style of Blenheim. 

[Livry, in a forest, near the Ch&teau, has an 

Augustine abbey, not far from which dwelt 

the pious hermit of Livry ^ *' whose name," 

as D'Aubigny relates, "though written in 

heaven, history has not transmitted to us," 

but who, for preaching the Gospel, died 

peacefully at the stake in front of Notre 

Dame. It may be reached vid Sevran, on the 

Nord line. The Chfttcau is the seat of Ylcomte 

d'Aguado, owner of the famous ChUteau 

Margaux vineyards.] 

Oagny (U mile), in department Seine-et-Mame, 

is at the end of Rainey Park. 

Ghellea-Ooornay (2i miles), on the Mame, 
had a palace in which Chilperic I. was assassinated 
by his wife, Frdd^gondc, in £84. There are traces 
of a«rich Abbey founded about the same time. 
Correspondance to Torcy and Quartre-Pav^a. 

Lagny-Thorlgny (5f miles) is across the 
bridge on the Mame, on its south bank. Its 
Church is the choir only of an unfinished struc- 
ture begun in the 14tb century. On the other 
side of the river, a little beyond Lagny, are ex- 
tensive tile and lime works. Menier's Chocolate 



T 



234 



BRADSHAW'S ILLITSTRATfiD 



[Sec. 5. 



Factory is at Noicdel-SUT-M ame. Coaches to 
Annet, Fresnes, Ferribres, Provins (see Route 
62). 
[FERSii:RES (6^ miles)is''m^(]ki:fkble for the meet- 
ing between . Bismarck and Jules Favre, 1870, 
when the latter declared that not an inch or a 
stone of France would be given up. Here is 
the superb seat of Baron Rothschild, full 
of rich furniture, pictures, pottery, old leather 
paiatingB, Ae.> 
Ermznonvillk (15 miles) has a country-seat, 
|)uUt by the ySjcomte^ de C^irardins (on the 
sUp pf an older), in which Rotwequ die4, 1790, 
|p ji SfiYilion since pulled down. Ifis tomb 
\6 on an island in the lake, bu^ hi^ bo4y 
lies in the Pantheon. A little circular temple 
to the Advancen^ept of Philosophy (purposely 
left unfinished), st^ds on six pillars, dedicated 
to NewtQn, Descartes, Voltaire, Montcsquiei^, 
Penn, Rousseau; tbjs whole being de^icatecl 
to Montaigne. The Emperor <]rp8eph and 
others have visited this spot.] 
Near the Chalifert canal tunnel is a short r$iil- 
way tunnel of 550 feet, which leads to 

Esbly (H miles). Coaches to Cr^cy (with its 

turreted walls and minature Catliedral), and Couilly 

(to which Mad. du Barri was bai^ished). Branch 

Rail from near this to Coulommlers; to which a 

branch also comes ffopi the Troyes line, via QretZ 

^nd Mortcerf .(Route 62). 

[CQUlomxillerB (if mjles) is p, sous-prefecture 

in dept. Seine-et-Marne, of 6,158 souls, in 

a pleasant part of the Grand Morin, on which 

is an island with remains of a Chateau, built 

by the Duchesse de Longuevillc. It was 

founded by the Counts of Champagne; ajqd 

once held by the English. Church of St. Denis, 

11th to 16th century, good stained glass ; Hotel 

de Ville in the old Hospice de la Charit(?; 

new Palais dc Justice; Museum of antiquities. 

ffotels. — De France ; du Soleil. Rail continued 

to La Fert4 Gaucher, Esternay, Suzanne 
(page 258), F^re Chanipenolse, and 
Sommesous, thrice 14 miles to Vit]7-le- 
Francois (page 38S).] 

MBAUX (38 mUea from Paris). 
• HoTRLS.— Dc la Sirbne; des Trols Rois. Bujff^et. 
A w^l-bullt town, sons-prefecture (13,833 popu- 
lation), and bishopric, in a pleasant spot on the Canal 



de rOurcq jtnd theMame, which divides it in two ; 
thqt part to the south being called the March^, 
and joined to the other by a wooden Bridge over- 
hung with mills, turned by the rapid current. It 
was the capital of the Afeidi in Roman times ; aiid 
Iftter, of Brie Champenoise ; was ravaged by the 
Normans (Sth century), and by the Jacquerie 
rioters (14th century); taken by the English, 
1420, ftnd by Henry IV., I59i. As many a^ seven 
ponncils have been hei<J here, the last of which 
excommunicated Frederick of Germany. The best 
building is St. Btienne's OathediHtt, a massiv» 
Gothic structure beg^n 1313, and left unfinished 
in the 1 6th century ; it is 832 feet by 138, and 330 
feet high at the north tower, which stan4s qn o»t 
side of the west front, and commands a view 
nearly up to Paris. It is well-proportioned, aiid, 
like that of York, the south tower is only finishe^l 
to the first stage. Inside jire thirty-two clustered 
pillars and a rich choir, with a toipb to the eloquent 
Bossuet, who died bishop, 1704. His statue, by 
Rutchiel, is at the Palace, close to the Cathedral, 
where they show his library, in the gardens; wbicl^ 
were laid out by Le Notre, who planted Greenwicl) 
and St. James's Parks. Here Louis XVI., Napo- 
leon I., Charles X., and Marshal Moltkc have 
stayed. St.Remfs Church, of the 15th century. 
Hoi el Dicu, a halle or market, theatre, college, 
library of 16,000 volumes, military magazine, 
cavalry barracks, and a Grande place. Trjide in 
grain, cattle, fromage de Brie, poultry, and wool. 

A line, opjene4 iu 1804, from ^e^ux to ReilQS 
(page 343), throHgh Trilpprt (below), L* FertiJ- 
miqn (page 23), F^rf^-en-Tar^cnoi? and Fism^ 
(page 235), gives a flirect rqute from Paris, »n4 
shortens tb^ journey to M^zi^res (spc Route 55> 

Rail to Coulommiers (see above), Damraartin, 
JulUy, Nanteuil-le-Hardouin, Villers-Cotterets, 
La Fert^Milon, Crony, Lizy. 

The railwav crosses the Mame to 

Trilport (3| miles), or Trie-Ie-Port, ne*r Mo/ft- 
cfcfu Castle, once the property of Catherine de 
Medicis. A rmentiferes tunnel (2, 105 feet long); then 

01l«Jlg1l9 m miles). 

La FeTt^-sons-Jouarre (5 miles), at the 

bridges on the Mame (one suspended), was in the 
13lh century a Ferte or Strength, built by a 



Koute 54.] 



HAKU^BOOX: to fbakce; 



295 



^ 



•eigneur oalle4 AnconU Mid in th« lCl\i cfiutury was 
held by (he Protee^aiiM, and often plundered. Ou 
a pretty Island is the old Chateau de Tile, or La 
Barre, where l^onis XVI. and his queen stopped, 
yfhen they were broug^ht back from Vareiwes. 
There are several good points of view around. 
Madame de Pompadour was bom here. 

Population, 4,670. ifo/e/ —Du Pore Epic. Trade 
In charcoal, and meules b moolin, or mill-stones, 
for which it is famous. Coaches to Jouarre (on 
south bank, with an old Merovingian crypt at 
the Convent) and Marigny. 

Naatevll (5 mlles), through a tunnel, 3,030 feet 
ong. Then another bridge (the seventh), over the 
Mame, to 

Nogent-l'Artand (6 miles), in department of 
the Aisne, from which there is communication with 
Cbarly, across the Mamc. The tunnel of {]\\6zy 
TAbbaye, about l,iOO feet, bi ings ypu to 

ChAteau-Thierry (7 miips). 

Hotels. — D'Ang'eterre; de la Sirbne. Buffet, 
This is a sous-prrffecture of 6,8G3 population, on 
the rocky hills of the Mamc, crowned by the fine 
remains of a ChAteau, built 720, by Charles Martcl, 
to hold Thierry lY., the infant son of Chiideric. It 
has frequently suffered from war, having been at- 
tacked by the English, 1370; by the Leaguers, 
143 J ; by Charles V., in 1544 ; by Henry of Guise, 
1571 (colled Bala/re^ or goibcd, like bis father, 
from the wound he received hero) ; the Froudeurs, 
1614; and especially in 1614, ivhen it was taken 
and retaken, and the old bridge destrQyr4. This 
was replaced by a three-arched atone bi ifigo to the 
faubourg across the river, where, on the promenade, 
is a statue of La Fontaine (a native, 1621), whose 
house is still shown here. An o'd fortified gate 
leads out to faubourg la Barre. Near the castle is 
St. Cr^pin's ancient Chwxhy with a toll tower; the 
old B'iffroi is another conspicuous tower, sur- 
rounded, half-way up, by pinnacles. The Hotel 
Di^u, founded by Philippe Ic Bel's queen, Jennnc, 
has Aome pictures; the HOtcl Balhan, or furt of St. 
Jacqiu^s, and the gate and chapel of the castle are 
-^ortb notice. The new Palais de Justice was built 
1843. Another native was St. Thierrj', bishop of 
Or'^ans. 

Coaches to Soiasons (see Route 6) and Orbais. 
Rail. 29 miles to La Fert^ Milon (page 38), pasaing 
Oolncy an4 Neuilly St. Front. From Coincy, 



correspondance to Fere-(h-TaAi;fenoia (below). 
[FkBE-ES-TASDEKOis (10| miles north), once for- 
tified, and taken by the Huguenots, Leaguers, 
Ac, has, not far off, the fine ruins of Robert of 
Dreux's castle, built 1206, consisting of parts 
of eight great towers (one 60 feet high), withiu 
a Willi. This is joined to an outwork across 
the ditch, by a drawbridge, ou a viaduct, built 
Wi^, by Anne de Montmorency, 81 feet high 
and 170 feet long, strengthened by tall battle* 
msnts, Ac. At BBAiWBiauB-VEaLi(il ntilts 
further) nre mineral waters, and a grood chttrch, 
which was part of an abbey, founded 1130. 
FiaxES (9i miles nortb-ea^ of Fire), in depart- 
ment Mame, on the Vesie, iathe Ronwm FiirU% 
where councils were held,. 881 and 935. it In 
ou the line from Soissons to Reims. Napcleuii 
made it his head-quarters, March, 1811.] 
Good Churches are seen .it Essomesa (13th cen- 
ti^fy), Ch^zy-r Abbayp (built I ! 30) ; also at Conde- 
en-Brie, to the south of the railway further on. 
M^iy (^f miles) has an old church. 
A line from here (5fi miles), opened 1884, joins 
Chateau Thierry with RomiUy (page 258), on 
the line between Troyes and Paris. The principal 
stations are Montmirail, and Villenanxe (page 2d2) . 
[MoNTMiBAiL (22 miles from Chateau Thierfy), 
on a hill by the Petit Morin, is also noted fur its 
millstones, and for a victory obtained l)y Napo- 
leon, llih February, 1814,over the Prussians and 
Russians. The Due de Dndeauvllle has a seat 
here. Cardinal de Retz was a native. At 
Vauchamps {i\ miles). Napoleon defeated 
Blilchcr, 14th February, 1814, after having 
routed his advanced guard on the 10th, at 
Champaubert (7 miles further), but at F^r6 
0lLaini>enoi8e (id mites south-east), on. the 
Pleurs, Marmont was finally beaten by the 
Allies, 24th of March. Monttnaur (4 miles 
north -north -east of Champaubert) has a 
moated brick Donjon, square, and flanked with 
turrets; with a Church ornamented with good 
stained windows.] 

Var«nne8-Jaiil80iiiie (U mile). 

Pozmans (6f miles), at the suspension bridge 
OR- the river, has St. Hippolyte's old Okureh, with 
acuriouB louvre tower, and a CliAteau; a trade 
in wiue, grain, Ac. Cardinal Dorraans, bishop of 
Bisauvais, was a native. . 



r 



236 



BftADBHAW'S ILLV8TRATSD 



[Sec. 5. 



Port-llrBillBOn (5{ miles), on the south side of 
the river, opposite the old Castle of Chfttillon-sur- 
Mame, where Pope Urban II. was bom, 1095. On 
a hill, between this and Damcry, arc the spires uf 
the modem ch&teau of Boursavlt, built by Mad.inic 
Clicquot, the wine-merchant of Reims, for her 
son-in-law. 

Damery-Bounault (5} miles), supposed, from 
the coins found here, to hare been of importance 
former y, is on the north side of the rircr, which 
improves as you ascend it into the champagne wine 
country. At 4| miles further, is 

EPBRKA7. 

88f miles from Paris, and 222f from Strasbourg. 
A buffet here; and railway workshops. 

A branch railway tums off to Reims and 
Meziferes through the Ardennes (see Route 55), 
and to Laon and Tergnier, on the St. Quentin line 
(see Route 6). 

It is the rule to drink a bottle of champagne here. 

Hotels— De TEurope ; de la Blrhne. 

^peraay is a sous-prefecture in department 
Mame, of 18,861 souls, in a pleasant spot on the 
Marae, under the vine-covered chalk-hills of 
Champagne^ of which wine this is the entrcpdt for 
the best growths. They are distinguished as 
nunuieux (frothy or effervescing) and non-fnoug$eta:. 
The merchants, one of whom is the well-known M. 
Moot, live in handsome houses in the Faubourgs la 
Folie and le Commerce; and the hills around are 
excavated for their cellars, where millions of 
bottles are stored. The late M. Moet lived to be 
over 90, at Chftteau Romont. Madame Clicquot 
(Veuve or Widow Clicquot, as she was called), also 
lived to be a good age ; her son-in-law, the Comte de 
Chevigne, resided at Ch&teau de Boursault. Her 
wine came greatly into note after the Emperor 
Alexander** visit, 1814, when the Russians first 
made acquaintance with her cellars. 

The loss from breakage (caused by the effervesc- 
ing gas), in July and August, is 5 to 40 per cent. 
While this goes on, the workmen wear wire 
masks. E^ich acre of wine-land yields about 260 
gallons, the price of such land varying from £200 
to £500 an acre. 

Some houses are of timber or brick; a stone 
bridge crosses the river. The painted windows of 
the old Qothic church are preserved in the new 
Italian one, built 1828-32. Here also ore St Lau- 



rent Chapel; anew Palais deJn8tico(1865); Hotel 
de Ville containing a Library of 18,000 volumes, 
with a museum; and Jard promenade. 

Some derive the name of this place from Aquee 
Perenna. Clovis gave it to the archbishops of 
Reims, who fortified it. Francis I. burnt it, to hinder 
Charles V. from takhig it, and it fell to Henry IV., 
after a siege, in which Marshal Biron was killed 
— his bead being knocked off while the king's hand 
was on his shoulder. Later, it belonged to the Dues 
de Bouillon. 

Olry (3f miles). Here the branch from Romilly 
and Troyes comes in; past AYlxe (noted for its 
wine and cave cellars), and VertUB (see page 25S). 

Jftlons- lei-Vlgnes (6{ miles), on theMoruo, 
where the Sonde joins. 

At 8i miles further is 

CHAL0N8, or CbAltms-rar-MariLe, 

1071 miles from Paris. 
Population, 25,863. 

Hotels. — De la Cloche; du Renard; de la 
Haute Mbre Dieu. 

All ancient place, chief town of department 
Marae, in the old province of Champagne, seat of 
a military division, of a bishopric, Ac., in a fine 
meadow and wine country, on the Marae, which is 
crossed by a stone bridge of three arches. It was 
the old Duro-Catalauni, nesr which Aurelian beat 
Tetricus, in 271, and Attila was defeated by the 
Romans, in the battle of 451. It h:is walls and 
moats, and six principal gates, leading to as 
many roads. Porte Ste. Croix is an unfinished arc 
de triomphe. Many of the houses are built of lath 
and plaster. Of four Churches, St. Alpin and St. 
Jean ore the oldest: the latter partly 11th Century. 

At the old posting-house here (Bureau de la 
Poste) where he changed horses, Louis XVI. was 
recognised before bis seizure at Varennes (see 
next page). 

Si. Etienne's Cathedral (on (he site of a temple 
to Apollo), rebnilt in the 17th century, in a rich 
florid style, is 860 feet long, and has two tall, 
slen !er spires of open work, resting on towers of a 
much older date, a portico in the Greek style, a fine 
altar by Mansart, stained windows, and an ancient 
crypt. Higher up the town are the mora elegant 
spires of 

Ifctre Dame 0turch, built between 1157 and 1822, 



^ 



lloute 54.] 



HAKD-BOOK TO FIIAKCB. 



237 



1 



partly in the Norman style, with good painted 
windows, and a mosaic pavement. The Hotel de 
Ville, on Place d'Armes, bnilt 1772, has a dome and 
an Ionic facade of four pillars, with bas-reliefs of 
the prodnctions of Champag^ie, and portraits of 
natives. H6tel de la Prefecture, bnilt 1762, is also 
a good building with a Doric front. The ^cole des 
Arts et Metiers (school of arts and trades), has 
a pretty chapel, and 800 pupils; with a library of 
32,000 volumes The promenade du Jard (jAzdin), 
on the Strasbourg road, is well planted. On the 
opposite side of the river is a Cavalry Barrack, once 
the convent of St. Pierre. There are a normal 
school (in the old Abbey of Toussaints), botanic 
garden, school of design, society of agriculture, 
museum, and immense Wine store* in the chalk caves. 
Trade in Champagne wine, casks, oil, and cutlery. 
Lacaille, the astronomer, was born here. 

The famous battle (see page 286X one of the 
great decisive battles in history, which for a time 
stopped the prog^ress of the Huns, was fought at a 
spot called AttUa's Camp^ fi miles off, near Chape 
and Cuperly, with immense slaughter on both sides; 
^tius, the Roman commander, assisted by bis 
Visigoth allies, was successful, but their king, 
Theodoric, was slain. 

Rail to Verdun, Ste. M^nehould, Mourmelon, 
Reims, and Troyes. The line to Troyes, 65 miles 
long, opened June, 1873, past SommesoilS, 

ArcUkBor-AnlM (page 3fi4), and Charmont, 

forms part of the Outer Circle Rail; which, begin- 
ning at Amiens, comes here vid Ham, Laon, and 
Reims ; goes to Orleans under the name of Orleans 
and Ch&lons State Rail (page 167); and thence to 
Chartrcs, Rouen, and Amiens. 
[CouRTMOU, 7 miles off from Chftlons, on the 
Ste. M^nehould road, has a population of 2,000, 
of Celtic origin, who have managed to preserve 
to the present day their own patois and customs 
distinct from their neighbours. They are keen 
traders ; they marry only in the spring, and 
when one of them dies, his linen is taken to the 
river-side, and there beaten in due form, by the 
survivorii. At VEpine is a beautiful Church. 

Chalons to Munrmclon Camp and Reims, by raUt 
opened to the camp, 1857. It turns off at La 

yeuve(6| miles) to St HUaire-aa-Temiae 
(10} miles), where the line to Verdun turni 



off (see below), and HovrmelOll (5) miles), 
on a wide flat traversed by the streets and 
huts of the Camp, radiating fh>m the Grand 
Mourmelon, the Pharos, &c. On 30th August, 
1870, Marshal McMahon broke up his camp 
here, and began his march towards the north- 
east, with a view of relieving Bazaino at 
Metz—a movement ending with his utter de- 
feat and surrender at Sedan, Ist September. 

Then Sept-Saulx, Thuliy, Sillery, and 

Reims, for which see Route 55. 
Chalons to Verdun and Metz ; by rail to 
Verdm. It passes St. HUaire (above), then 
Cuperly (8| miles) and Snippes (6i miles), 

Somme Tonrbe (6i miles), and Somxne- 
Bionne (2i miles), to 

Yalxny (13 miles), which has a monument to 
Kellerman, on the spot where his heart was 
buried, 1820, parmi let rettet de $et brav$$ com- 
pagnofu Sarme*^ who fell in the victory which 
he gained here, over the Prussians, 1792. 

Ste. M^nehOUld (5| miles), a sous-prefecture 
in department Mame, and a well-built place 
of 5,298 souls, on the Aisne, having the Place 
d'Austerlitz at one end, and a good H6tel de 
Ville at the other. The old Castle was often 
besieged. Trade in charcuterie^ Ac, and 
aspsragus. Boteh,—De Metz; St. Nicolas. 
Rail to Rethel. Bar-le-Duc, Ac. 

Clermont-en-Argonne (8f miles). To the eft 

of this (7| miles) is Varennes^ memorable as the 
spot where, on the night of the 31st June, 1791, 
the imfortunate Louis XVI. was stopped in 
his flight from Paris, with his Queen. 

Dombasle (8 miles), in department Mouse. 
Here are considerable salt-works. 

yerdun (IH miles), a sous-prefecture and forti- 
fied town (with a citadel improved by Vauban), 
on the Mouse. Population, 18,852. Near the 
old Hdtel de Ville of Henri Quatre's time 
is a bronze statue of Chevert (a native), by 
Lemaire, on Place Ste. Croix. It has a Cathe- 
dral Joined by cloisters to the Grand Seminary; 

a good modem biahop'a Palace; Museum; and 
Military Prison. It surrendered to the Ger. 
mans, 1870, after a siege of 83 days; and was 
evacuated by them 18th September, 1878, at 
the final termination of the German oocupa- 
tion of French territory. Noted sugar plums 



r 



238 



BfiAI>SUA.W 8 iLLUSTBATED 



I ooc* u* 



.mid liqnean ore miide here. In the great 

: war, from the number of il^tenns. It wai more 

' than half English, with English shops "" from 

• London." Netr forts hare been boilt. 

ffotel.—DBB Trois Manres (Three Moors). Rail 

to Sedan (53 miles), L^rouTille, (34 miles, 

page 2*9), M^zi^res, Commercy, etc. The 

Unto towards Sedan passes DriA-DanlcoXl 

and Stenfty (page H7). Another extension 

from here to Metz, opening up a direct line 

from Paris to Frankfort, was completed in 1873. 

It passes Etaln (13| miles), Gonflans-Jamy 

(12 miles), with a short branch to BHey, 
BatiUy (5 mileft). and AlhailTlil6r8. After 
the fast We come to 
OravelOtte, a spot rendered memorable In the 

late war by the battle of 18th August, 1870. 
ttdtz, 14 miles further, now annexed to Germany. 

' (See Bradshatd'i Hand-Book to the Rhine).] 
trom Chalons on the Strasburg railway you pass 
Oo^ua (H mile). yitry-la-YUlie (8 milea). 
Lolsy (7 miles) ; and across the Mame to 
"Vltry-le-ttailCOlB, or nfi-y-sur-Maime (8f 
tailcs), a sous-prefecture, of 8,022 population, on 
the Marrie and the canal which joins it to the 
Rhine; founded by Francis or Fran9ois I., in 1546, 
and regularly fortified, in order to replace Vitry- 
en-Perthols, which had been burnt by Charles V. 
The streets are well built, and the houses of wood. 
It has a Church begun by Francis 1., with two 
towers, in a mixed Italian and Gothic style : close 
to which is Marochetti's bronze statue of Uoyer 
Collard, placed there 1846. These, with a bronze 
fountain, are in the Place d'Armes, on the opposite 
side of which is the Hfttel do Ville, with a Library 
of 12,000 volumes. Hotels.— -Des VoyagSrifs ;hii itf 
Cloche d'Or. There is a direct line from Paris 
iid Grfetz, Coulommiers, La-Fert€-Gaucher (see 
page 234), and 36zanne. 

Blesmes (7 J miles), from which a rail branches 
off to St. Dizicr, Joinville, and Chaumont (see 
Route 56). 
Vsut&iy (^ miles), on the Saulx. 
dermaize (3f miles), with a population of 2,382, 
ami the Fontaine des Sarrasins, a mineral sjpriug 
of some repute. Then 

. BvfUmr«MiiE»Yaoliti(^ftril%»). l^aimion, 



i,«94. Branches to Trlanconrt, by Tanbeconrt 
(15 miles) and HaironTllIe (19 miles). To St. 
bieier (page 245), also io Amagne (see page JJ44). 
t^om Rerigny, over the Sanlx, to 

BAB-LE-DUC, 

HoTBLS. — Grand Hotel Falot; dn Cygntf 
(SWan) ; de Metz. Bujffit at station. 

Population, 18,761. Chief town of department 
Mouse, in a pleasant spot on the Omain, built for 
a frontier (or barrier) town by Frederick, Duke ot 
Upper Lorraine, in the 10th century, as head of the 
Duchy of le Barrois. The arms of the town are 
two barbels^ placed back to back, a sort of pun on 
the name. Haute Ville, or Upper Town, stands oil 
the hill, round a fragment of the old castle (pulled 
down by Louis XIV., in 1670), whence there is a 
fine view. Basse Ville lies along the river, whic& 
li erossed by five bridges, and is a liVely part, with 
good broad streets, several tan yards, cotton mills', 
and dye hoiises. St. Pierre chtirch, on the hill, 
has an anatomical marble eflBgy of Reh^ de Ch&lonS 
(killed 1514, at St. Dlzier), with the muscles, 
bones, and skin displnyed, by Rlchler, a pupil of 
M. Angelo. There are two other Churches; ah 
old Belfry; H6tel de la Prefecture, Hdtcl de 
Vine, college, palais de Justice, and a sitiall tboatre. 
'I'here are statues of Marshals Oudinot and 
E*celmans, who were bom here, and the Muieum 
of antiquities contafais a bust of TrHjan, sent from 
Rome by Oudinofs son, who commanded the 
expeditlOTi of 1849. 

Conveyances: By rail to Verdun (55 miles, see 
above), &c. The Castle of Jean d'Heure, and its 
gardens, and Sarrasins Grotto are near here. 

 From Bais4«4)jyVkftR .*^® ^^^ *** Nancy, you pass 
XiOngeTllle (2i miles), otrthet^main. 
HtaL9ei8-le-Pettt (4i miles). [A BrdM^atl 
of 21 miles td LigBy^iafc-BaTtOia. Foptdation. 
6,101. A pretty Spot on the Omain, hating the 
Ltixembourg tower of the old Chftteau. Thence to 
Tr^vexay, D^mange-aiix-Eauz, Chmdre- 
oourts thence to BaiATllle^ Sionne-Hidre- 
vauz, Fre1>^urt, andNeufch&teau (see next 

page).] The next place on the main line is 

liims€u »i >*l * M H» i Hi (Sltefles). 8)»M6«fthe 
I 6tttWi^» it) Ike Hiftflt ftf« r» f Mt dMp. 



Route B4.] 

• LdrOUTUli (8| mifes), on the Meuse. Branch 
RaU, 105 miles, to fll: MihioI.Yerdun, Stenay, Sedan, 
and Mesilsres.' 

E8t. Milll61 (10 mlleA), in d valley on the Meuse, 
under hills, one carrying a ruined Castle, buili 
loss, by a Comtesse de Bar, In St. i^tienne's 
(Stephen's) abbey Church is a beautiful marble 
of the Descent from the Cross, by M. Angelo's 
pupil, Richier,aboTe mentioned, who lired here. 
Population, 8,126; cotton and linen wearers: 
Hotds.^jyji Bras d'Or ; du Cygne. 

Stehiiy, see page 247. 

Going down the Meuse, it is 23{ miles to VetdtUl. 
See page 237.] 

A Viaduct of 90 yards, to 

• Comindroy (8| miles), a sous-prefecture, with 
7,483 inhabitants, in a pleasant fertile spot on the 
Meuse, well built, with public fountains, statue of 
Calraet, HOtel de Ville (formerly a conrent), 
bal-rftcks and riding-house. The cavalry barrack 
Was once the seat of Stanislaus of Poland, and o^ 
Cardinal de Retz, who wrote his Memoirs here. 
ffotels. — ^De la Cloche d'Or. Coaches to Void, Ac. 

Sofcy (5 miles), on the Meuse, has traces of St. 
Martin's Abbey, and, on a hill near it, remains df 
k Roman camp. Tunnel of 1,870 feet, to 

Faguy-Biir-Meilse (8 miles); from which a 
line is open (as below) to Vaucouleurs, Domremy, 
and Neufchftteau; where the branch from Chatl- 
mont Joins, Ma CAaHtlTLlXies, &c. (page 246). 

[YauOOUlbura m miles), on the Meuse, up 
which you pass into department Vosges, before 

Domremy-la-Pucelltf (is miles), a small 

hamlet of 816 sotils^ over the Meuse, on th6 
Vosges hills, famous as the place where Jodn 
of Are^ the Maid of Orle&ns, was bom 1412, 
in a little cottage, shown by an inscription 
over it. Her real name, as M. Huldut of 
Nancy contends. Was Jeanne Dare, which was 
altered to d' Arc, When her family was enobled 
by Charles VII. after her death. A School for 
girls has been built to her honour, besides a 
Fountaiu, with a cast of the well-known StattL6, 
sculptured by Louis Philippe's daughter, 
Marie. M. Paul's statue of Joan is near the 
bridge. 
Neuf Ob&toau (7i miles), the uicient Neomagta, 
is a 80U8-]Nr€f eoture of 4,048 inhabitants, under 
the tillls on the Meuike, (a good bridge)^ wh^^ 



HAirS-BOOK TO FKAN01&; 



2M 



the Meuzdu Joins. It has an H6tcl de VUle, 

Church of St. Crlstophe, 11th century, Churclr 

of St.l^icolas, with an old crypt, and statue of 

Joan of Arc From here a'Rail of 49 miles is 

open to Ephial, via AtUnoifl, ChkUHOlB, aiid 

MireCOUrt (page 248). Hote;.— Do Paris. 

From Mirecourt to Remoncourt (17^ miles), 

yittel(5 miles), and Contrez^vllle (3 miles), 

which have some noted mineral waters, like 

those of Vichy, and especially useful in gravel. 

Those of Vittel (Bath Hotel) are good for 

gravel, gout, and stomach complaints. Hotels^ 

casino, theatre, Ac, (See Bradshaw's ContinenUtl 

Guide.) Then MartLgliy-leB-BailUl (6 miles) 

• Which has good mineral springs. Thence to 

Mettey (m miles), Andlliy (I2 miles), and 

Cliallndrey(10mlles)(page256),forDIJon,&e.] 

A btanch'of 25^ miles, opened 1884, direct from 

Keufch&teau to Merrey, diortens the distance to 

Chalindrey considerably. 

Through a tunnel of 8,675 feet, and the valley of 
lugressin, to FOUS iH miles), in department 
Meurthe. 

Toul (3j miles), an old town and military post 
of the fourth class, formerly seat of a diocese. It 
was the head of the Leuci^ in Belgic Gaul, in 
Caesar's time, and was made a free town by the 
German Emperors. A bridge of seven arches 
crosses the Moselle. Its Citadel capitulated to the 
Germans, 23rd September, 1870, with 2,4S0 men. 
There arc here the did Cathedral, begun by Sf. 
Gerard, 965, with a fine roof and two very pictui*- 
esque toWcrs^ 246 feet high— both, as well as the 
whole front, rose-window, Ac, profusely carved; 
the Church (Roman and Gothic) and fine cloisters 
of St. Gengoult ; H6tel de Ville, once the bishop's 
palace ; a college, barracks, and com market. 

Marshal St. Cyr, Baron Louis, the financier, and 
Admiral Rigny were natives. Another was St. 
Loup, once bishop. Indeed, Toul bits provided so 
many episcopal personages, that it wili cal led Ibttl fa 
Safhte, IfdW forts haVe been built. Population, 
12,138, WBd make embroidery arid jpottery. ff&telt. 
—Grand tlM^l; IflCleche; de Mete. Rail open 
to Golombey-les-BelleB, Favl^fts^ and Mir^ 
court (pa^e 248): 

FOntenoy-Blir^MofleUe (H miles). The lire 
croBseB tiie river here, Tnif a s€v0ni«rc)ked bridge. 
UVtrdUA (6| niiies), a desifed f^rtrass, r 



240 



BRADSHAW 8 ILLUSTRATBD 



[Sec. 5. 



rockf and wooded height, over the Moselle, with 
many good points of view. It was a Roman sta- 
tion and contains some curious old buildings. In 
the IStb century church is an effigy of St. Eucaire. 
Cross of Bt. Eucaire, 1289. 

The Mame and Rhine Canal, after tmrersing a 
tunnel of 650 yards In hard chalk, crosses the 
Moselle by an aqueduct, and is itself passed over 
by the railway, which also crosses the river twice 
more, near here, on bridges of five arches. 

Frooard (4* miles), at the base of the hills, has 
a handsome bridge, and was once a fortified post. 
Across the river is the old church of Pompey, with 
remains of Avant-Garde Castle. Vases, Ac, have 
been found at the Champ de Tombes, near St. 
Eucalre's hermitage; they are now In Nancy 
Museum. 

At Frouard the Mcurthe joins the Moselle, and 
the branehrail toMetz, *c., parts offCsee Route 57). 
At 5 miles further, ascending the Meurthe, Is 

NANCT. 

A Bufet. 220 miles from Paris, 994 miles from 
Strasbourg. Guibert's Statue of Thiers, "Llb<ra- 
teur du Terrltoire," faces the station, in Place 

Thiers. 
Population, 87,110. 

Hotels.— Hdtel de Paris; d'Angleterre ; de 
France; del'Europe. 

1^ Objscts or NoTics.— Ducal Palace; Corde- 
liers' Church— Hdtel de Vllle In Place Royals- 
Cathedral. 

Capital of department Meurthe-et-Mo»elle (form- 
erly of Lorraine), seat of a diocese, cour natlonale, 
Ac, near the Meurthe, In a fertUe plain, under some 
low hills, and one of the best built towns of 
France ; having 8 old gates in the walls. It was 
founded in the 11th century by the Dukes of 
Lorraine, one of whom was Rend II., who, aided by 
the Swiss, obtained a famous victot-y over Charies 
the Bold, of Burgundy, In 1477, outside the town, 
Charles being Wiled ; and another was Stanislaus, 
or Stanislas, of Poland, who greatly Improved It, 
aud left the duchy to his father-in-law, Louis XV., 
at his death, 1786. 

The old Ducal Palace In the VleilleVille, or Old 

Town, with Its rich gateway, was almost entirely 

destroyed by fire 1871. By this gate is a smaller 

i$alledPorteMasco,after a bearonoe kept there, 



who took a fancy to pet a ahild which strayed into 
his den. Hero the provincial Museum is kept. It 
contains the tapestry found in Charles the Bold'a 
tent; about .80 feet long and 13 feet deep, with 
the hlstoiy of Esther and Ahasnerus worked in it. 
In this quarter also are St. Epvre's Gothic church, 
which has a bas-relief (the Lord's Supper, IaS2), 
by Drouin, a native; and the Cordeliers CVivrtA, 
built 1477-84, by Bend II., which contains his tomb 
(1615) with those of Cardinal Vauddmont (by 
Drouin), Antoine de Vauddraont, Phllippa of 
Gueldres (by Richicr), Henry of Vauddmont and his 
wife, and a warrior, — besides Gerard I. and his wife, 
Hadwige, in the Round (or octagon) Chapel, restored 
by France and Austria, since the ravages made in 
1793. All these are in Grand Rue, which connects 
Cours Leopold with the Pcpiui^re in Ville Neuve. 
The Place de Grbve leads to the Cours d Orleans, 
and the Porte Nouve (or New Gjite), built 1785, on 
the Mctz road, with the Place Carriere (where the 
fair is held— once a pond) in which stand the Cour 
Royale, the tribunal of commerce, and the Prefec- 
ture, a large old building. The last is opposite the 
Arch of Triumph, leading to the Place Royale (or 
Stanislas), the best part of the New Town, which 
was begun by Charles III., in 1603, and carried 
out with an effect suitable to the capital of a pro- 
vince. Here are the mtel de VWe, with Girardet's 
freseoea, and a Museum of Fleniah and other 
painters ; the bishop's seat and the saUe de 
spectacle, Ac., all in a uniform Italian style. 
A bronse figure of Stanislas, put up 1823, 
ornaments the centre, where the pillory once stood ; 
handsome Iron gates are placed at the comers, and 
there Is a promenade out of one side (past the foun- 
tains), called the Pepini^re. A large Fountain 
occupies the Place d' Alliance ; here stands 

The Cathedral^ a modem edifice, built 1703-42, 
copied from S. Andrea della Valle, at Rome. It 
has two towers, 256 feet high in its front, which is 
154 feet broad, a mixture of the Corinthian and 
Composite styles; a dome near the sanctuary is 
51 feet across, painted by Jacquart. Ifotre Dcme 
de Bon Secours church, in Faubourg St. Pierre, on 
the Lundville road, was rebuilt 1738, by Stanislas 
(whose tomb by Adam is here), on the site of one 
founded by Rend, over the spot where his adversary 
fell, 1477: It contains some old standards taken 
I from the Turks. Bend's statue is in Place St. Epvrc. 



fioute 54.] 



MANp-PQQJf TO P«Alf!C|S4 



$). Jean's Gh^pfrl bVjoiJffea tojthe Knights of St. 
Jplin. Close iq i^ is jtho Protestant Temple. A 
Ubrftiy of 40,990 volumes is at the Hotel de 
rUnivcrsitd; wUh a cabinet of natural history 
aod of coin9 in the Rue de la Monnale. There 
are also large hospitals, a deaf and dumb asylum 
(at CoBur en C.6te, where the heart of Louis XV.'s 
queen was handed oyer to the Lorraine clergy), 
and a society of arts and sciences and botanic 
gardens (both founded by Stanislas). 

Near the Citadel are the old pinnacled Tourt de 
la Craffe (or Notre Dame), built 1480. At Bon- 
donville, In the suburbs, is a cross to which pil- 
grimages are made ; here, too, is the best vineyard 
about Nancy (C6te des Chanoines). The Char- 
treuse of BonertiUe (1666) contains the mausoleum 
of Charles IV. and the Prince of Vaudemont. 

Some of its natives are Marshal Bassorapifere, 
General Drouot, Maimbonrg, the historian ; Hoff- 
man, the eritlo; Isabey and Grandvllle, the 
painters, Ac. Drouot accompanied Napoleon to 
Elba; his statue (by David d'Angcrs) is In Cours 
Leopold. A statue of Dombasle, in Place Dombaj^le, 
by the same, was erected 1861. Another native 
was Callot, the engraver, whose old house is in 
Rue Callot. Manufactures of cotton cloth, woollen 
serges, muslins, and embroidery are carried on 
here. 

It was occupied by the Germans 1870-1, and was 
the head-quarters of their army of occupation, after 
the remoyal from Compi^gne. 

[Branch itot7«are open (1) to Ludre8(neara 

Roman camp), Pont fit. Vincent, deintrey, 
T^sellse, Diamile, and Mlreeotirt (page 

»48), 86 miles long; and (2) to Enlmont, 

Brln, Moncel (douane), Oliambrey! 

Bntthtonrt (branch to VlC Saltworks), 

And Salonnes to 

Cllfttean- Saline, a small place of 2,000 souls, 
on the Seille, so called after a Castle, built 
1342, by Isabella of Austria, near the salinei 
or salt-works. Great quantities of salt arc got 
at Vic, Moycn-Vic, and Dleuze. Hotels.— Ttw 
Cygne ; de la Couronnc d'Or.] 

From Nancy, on the rail to Strasbourg, you pass 

up the Mcurthe, to Jarville-la-Malgrange, a 

town of 2,677 people, then 



241 



miles), tvo places <)n opposite sides of the river— 
the latter having a fine Gothic Church, built 1494- 
1544, with light piUnrs 82 feet high, and towers to 
match. Many pilgrims visit it on the Monday of 
Pentecost. Joly, a painter of the last ccnturr, 
was bom here. Population of both places, .0,654.' ' 

Rosleres-aux-5allnes(3i miles), before i%hich 

you leave on the left, Dombasle (1 mile), where a 
branch of the Moselle falls into that stream, passing 
a ruined Chdteau on.the top of the hill. Population, 
2,329. Soda is manufactured. 



VarangdYille - St. NioHolafl-dn-Port (7^ 

St 



BlalnvllIe-la-Grande (3} miles), on the Mo- 
selle ; sometimes called Blainville-sur-Eau, from 
a rapid which ^ums a few mills. Bvffet. 

The line to Epinal and Vesoul turns off at 
Blainville (see Route 59). 

Lim^ViUe (5i miles) ; Buffet; a sous-prdfecture 
in department Meurthe, with 21,642 inhabitants, 
in a fertile spot on the Meurthe, where the Vesouze 
joins, was at first a hunting-seat, and was taken by 
Marshal Longueville, 1638, when the fortifications 
were pulled down. At the old Palace of the Dukes 
of Lorraine the Emperor Fiancis I. was born ; it is 
now a cavalry depot. There is also a Church, 
built 1750, with two towers, in which is the tomb 
of Voltaire's friend, Madame Chfttclet. 

Girardet, the painter. Chevalier Boufiieurs, and 
General Haxo were bora here. The Treaty of 
Lundville, between France and Austria, was signed 
in Rue d'Allemagne, 1801. 

Hotels.'^jyeB Vosges; du Faisan (Pheasant). 

Rail to Rambervillers, by Oharmcs, page 248; 
to St. Did, Ac, 38 miles. 

[The latter passes up the Meurthe to Bacca- 
rat (21| miles), having a glass factory, 1,70C 
hands; Raon I'Etape (6f miles), in the 
Vosgesmountaius, with a castle and monastery, 
and a good timber trade; and Eti'val to 
St. Di6 (10§ miles), as in Route 60. From 
Etival a short line runs to Senones (popula- 
tion, 4,027); remnins of a Romanesfjue Abboy, 
ne^r which is the abbey-church of Moyenmon- 
tier, with the Oratory of St. Gregory,. said -to 
be 7tli century.] 

Embermtol (lO miles) was the cure of Abb** 
Gregoire, who figured in the States General of " 



r 



242 



BliAOSflAW'S ILtnSTRAttib 



[Sec. 5. 



Igney-Ayrlcotlrt (5 miles), 255 miles from 
Paris, on the frontier. This, with Raon 1' Etape, 
on the Donon hiils, was given back to France, by 
the convention of 12th October, 1871. For the 
rest of the line, vid DeutBCh-AvrlCOIirt (the 
German donane), to Strassburg, Colmar, and 
Miihlhauscn, see Bradthuw's Hand-Book to the Rhine. 

Hereabouts a short rail turns off to Cirey, 
passing FOUlcrey (2i miles), Blamont (8i miles), 
to Cirey (5f miles) ; and crossing the new German 
boundary. 



Epemay to Reims, M^zi^res, and Belgium. 

Distance to Mezi^res, 78^ miles. Four trains 
dally, express, 8 hours. This is one of the Ardennes 
Company s Lines. 

B^eraaj Station, on the Paris and Strasbourg 
line, as in Route 54. Leaving this, the line crosses 
the Mame, on a four-arched bridge, and is still 
further continued on two other bridges or arch- 
ways (to save it from the inundations of the 
river), and on two skew bridges over the Canal, to 

Ai, or Ay (2 miles), where the best Monsseux 
wines are grown. Population, 6,701. Mareuil- 
sur-Ay is the seat of the Duke de Montebello, 
whose wine is here made. At 

Ayenay (H miles) is the church of an ancient 
abbey, founded in the 7th century. The line, after 
winding among forests and hills, passes a long 
Tunnel of over 2 miles, to 

Billy-la-Montagne (7i miles), and its old 

ehurch, at the foot of a hill. Then 7| miles further, 

is 

REIMS, or Rhelms, 

107i miles from Paris, 

Where the Junction from Tergnier and Laon falls 

in (see Route 6). Buffet. 

Hotels. — Du Lion d'Or, very good hotel, recom- 
mended to English travellers. Mr. Disant, pro- 
prietor. 

Grand Hotel. 

Hotel du Commerce; de la Malson Rouge. 

Antertean Consul here. 

English Church Service^ at the Chapel, Rue de 
HotMons. 

4^0bjbct8 of Notice.— Cathedral— Old Walls 
— nhnrcb of Bt. Remd— Hotel de Ville— Port de 
~^lson Rouge. 



Reims, though a Bons-pr«$fectare only (in de- 
partment Mame), has a population of 104,186, is the 
seat of an archbishop, and a very old city, having 
been the chief tovm of Champagne. 

It stands on the Vesle, at the bottom of gently 
sloping chalk-hills, covered with vineyards, though 
the neighbourhood is dull. It was the capital of 
the Remi, in Belgic Gaul, and called Duroeortorum 
by the Romans, whose consul here, Jovinns, became 
a Cliristian, 866. Glovis and his Franks were bap- 
tised here, 496. It was taken by Charles Martel, 
719, and by Hugh Capet's rival, Charles of Lor- 
raine, 900 ; besieged by Edward III. of England, 
1859, and captured, 1421, by the English, who were, 
at length, driven out by the Maid of Oriians in 
Charles the VIPs time. He was crowned here, as 
were all the French sovereigns from Philippe 
Auguste down to Charles X. except Henry IV. 
and Louis XVIII. The ampulla, or vessel of 
consecrated oil, used at the coronations, was 
destroyed at the great Revolution. 

It was taken by the Allies, 1814. In 1870, the 
King of Prussia entered the city with his forces, 
5th September, on his march to Paris; and, after 
the peace, 1871, it became for a time the head- 
quarters of the German army of occupation. 

Parts of the Gothic walls, with their turrets, 
still remain ; the streets are wide, and most of the 
houses one storey high, but it has a dull look, with 
grass growing in the streets. Of fourteen open 
Places, the largest is Place Royale, built 1756, 
which has Cartellier's bronze copy of Pigalle's 
statue of Louis XV. (who greatly improved this 
old city), with the statues of Commerce and France, 
and the ancient Hotel des Fermos. Place Godlnot 
takes its name from a canon who built a ehdteau 
d'eau for supplying water, now replaced by a new 
reservoir (by Cordier, 1848), in Place de la Tour- 
du-Puits. An old fountain, by Coustou, the 
sculptor, stands in Place St. Nicalse. Place 
Drouet-d'Erlon has a bronze statue of Marshal 
d'Erlon. A statue of Colbert stands opposite the 
railway station. One Gate leads out to Grand 
Cours, a well-planted walk by the river, as far as 
Porto de Laon. Close to the latter (built in the 
wall) is the Porte de Mars, a genuine Roman relic. 
It was a triumphal Arch, built by Agrippa, in 
honour of Csesar Augrustus, with three openings in 
it, and eight Corinthian columns, all qiuch worn. 



Route 55.] 



ttANl>-fiOO& to rBAKC£. 



24S 



1 



An Amphitheatre may bo traced at the Mont 
d'Arfenes, near It. But its finest ornament Is the 
noble Gothic 

Catfiedral, covered with a mnltitade of figures 
and ornaments, and built, forthe most part, 1212-42, 
by Robert de Coucy, on the site of one founded as 
cirly as 360-400. The transept (164 feet long) was 
rebuilt after a fire, in 1491. Length, 490 feet; 
breadth, 98 feet; height, 128 feet. The richly 
adorned Front has a triple portal (the middle one 
being 39 feet wide), a large stained rose window, 
bas-reliefs of the Passion, the Judgment, Crowning 
of the Virgin, David and Ooliath, Baptism of Glovis, 
and from 530 to 550 Statues of various sizes, in 
rows, besides a row of 85 niched prelates near the 
top; above which rise the two Towers, 270 feet, 
formed by open pillars and windows, and ending in 
little turrets, instead of the spires which they were 
designed to carry. One tower (the south), a little 
shorter than the others, was not finished till 1480, 
and has the bells of a clock as old as 1570, with 
moving figures, Ac. Going in, you see about 90 
niched statues Inside the doors ; the Windows are 
richly stained with fig^ures of apostles, kings, &c. 
In the nave (which had a painted ceiling of lilies, 
on a blue ground, when Charles X. was crowned), 
is the very curious marble tomb of Jovinus^ the 
Roman consul, carved over with a lion hunt, and 
brought from St. Nicaise's church, "An. VIII. de 
la Republique,'' or 1800. Nine Chapels surround 
the choir, which has a rich altar, the canopy of St. 
Nicaise's church, a large organ, 64 feet high, and 
Poussin's painting of the Israelites gathering 
Manna, with others by Titian and Tintoretto. 

The Chufxh of St. Remi^ or Remigius, was built 
1049-1162, as part of Archbishop Turpiu's Benedic- 
tine abbey, being older than the cathedral, and the 
place where the early kingii were consecrated. It 
is a mixture of the Norman and pointed Gothic 
styles, and is 861 feet long, with a plain front, hav- 
ing five portals and a rose window, between two 
slender towers with slated spires. It contains a 
modem copy of the tomb of St. Reml, ornamented 
by marble life-size statues of the twelve Premier 
Peers of France (the Count of Champagne and the 
archbishop are two), saved from an older tomb. 
The pavement is done with mosaic figures from the 
Bible; and ten pieces of Tapestry (the life of St. 
{km!) line the walls. Several Kings and bishops 



were burled In this church, which has lately been 
restored. Here the procession of the Herring used 
to take place on Holy Wednesday. Each canon 
trailed a herring after him, and It was his business 
to tread on the one belongrlng to the man before 
him, while he did his best to prevent his own being 
trodden on by the next following. St. Jacques 
(1183) has a picture attributed to Guldo. 

The Churches of St. Andrew and St. Thomas 
are both modem Gothic. 

The Hdta de ViHe (which a new street joins to 
Place Hotel deVille), begun 1627, and enlarged 1825, 
consists of a centre and wings (one new), 200 feet 
long, ornamented with 68 pilasters, and bas-reliefs 
(at the middle) of Louis XIII. Here are placed 
the cartulalre, or collection of Archives; the blblio- 
th^que or Library of 60,000 volumes, besides 1,500 
MSS. and autographs; aiid.a Museum of pictures. 
At the archbishop's Paiau is a collection of por- 
traits of kings and prelates. A new Doric Palais 
de Justice was built, 1845; the Hdtel Dleu has a 
fine chapel; a new covered market, 1840, and 
Hdpital-G(^u^ral, with the ancient refectory of the 
Jesuits. 

A few old buildings are left, as the Hotel dcs 
Comtesde Champagne, In Rue du Tambour; Hotel 
de Joyeuse, near the Hotel de VlUe; Hotel de 
Chevreuse,inRuedesGueux; MauondeaMusiciens 
and the Maison Rouge Inn (near the cathedral), on 
which you read, " In the year 1429, at the corona- 
tion of Charles VII., in this inn, then called the 
Zebra, the father and mother of Jeanne d*Arc were 
lodged at the cost of the city authorities. * At 
the English College for priests here, the Rlieims 
Version of the New Testament was published, 
1582. In the old house of Long V^tre, in Rue 
de Cdres, Colbert^ the minister of Louis XIV., was 
bom 1619, the son of a wine or cloth merchant, 
where he served as clerk. When he wanted, after- 
wards, to make one of his sons Grand Ballly of the 
Order of Malta, for which four descents of nobility 
were required, he proceeded in this way. He fabri- 
cated an epitaph for a pretended ancestor, Richard 
Colbertby, a Scotchman. To get this placed in the 
Cordeliers' church, where several of his family lay 
burled, he bribed the guardian with the promise of 
a bishopric (which he never g^t; ; and here the 
epitaph was to be seen till the Revolution. In 
Rue du More, Pluche, who wrote the Speeto'' 



T 



244 



..» 



BBADSMAW'S If.T.U8tiiATBD 



[Sec. 5. 



la Nature^ was born. Gobelin, wbo gives name to 
the tnpestry, and Marshal Drouet d'Erlon, were 
also natives. Trade in Chjimpa^e wines, corn, 
and woollens. It is the "original seat" of pain 
cT^picei, or gingerbread. 

The trade in Champagne at Reims reaches 30 
million francs j'early; and 600,000 bottles are 
usually stored away in the chalk cellars of MM. 
Moet, Cliquot, and other proprietors. It sells from 
2 to 4 francs a bottle on the spot, according to 
quality ; but the inferior sort drunk here is to be 
bad at a vejry low price; the local consumption is 
reckoned at 84 bottles a bead. Of the four million 
bottles of sparkling Champagne exported from the 
whole department, upwards of half-a-million finds 
its way to England, and three-quarters-of-a- 
miUion of the rest to France ; brandy and sugar- 
candy being added to suit the English and Russian 
markets. Flowers are greatly cultivated. 

Billery is on the road to Chalons. There is a line 
from here to SoiSBOns (page 23) 85 miles, passing 
through Breull-Roxnaln, Fismes (pages 23 and 
285), and Bralsne (page 23). 

Vitry-l^s-Belzas iH miles). 

BazaZLCOnrt (5 miles), at the Branch Rail of 

10 miles, to isles-snr-Suippes and B^thenl- 
YlUe. 

La Ch&telet (7 miles). Tagnon (li mile). 

Cross the Aisne, and the Canal des Ardennes, to 
Betlldl m miles), a sous-prefecture of 7,136 
souls, in department Ardennes, on a hill by the 
Aisne, was an old Roman CkMtrum tetecttan^ and 
the head of a duchy, once held by the Due de 
Meilleraye, who married Cardinal Mazarin's niece. 
It was besieged, 1660, by the Spaniards, who de- 
feated Turenne close by, then fighting for the 
Fronde. Condd took it four years after, but gave 
it up to Turenne, who was now on the court side, 
after changing his religion. An old tower remains. 
Woollens and merinos are made. 

Hotels. — ^Du Commerce; de Prance. 

Coaches to Chateau-Porcicn, Signy I'Abbaye. 
Rail to Novion, &c. 

▲inagZie-Luc<|U7 (5i miles), where the Branch 
Rails to Attigny, Vouziera, and Rev Igny (75 miles), 
and to Hlrsonf turn ofL 



CAttlgay (7^ miles), on the Aisne, has traces of 
a palace of the early khigs from Clovis, who 
built it 647. A council was held here 765; 
and here Witikind, the Saxon, was baptised, 
786. Charles the Simple built St. Waiburg's 
church here. It was afterwards a country- 
seat of tbo Reims archbishops, but suffered so 
much from the English and the Frondeurs, 
that it is now a village of only 1,8SG souls. 

Tonilan (I9I mUes), further up the Aisne, 
a small soua-prdfecture of 8,806 population, 
near which the Prince de Ligne was killed, 
1792. It was about here that, in the Revolu- 
tionary war, a sudden panic took possession 
of the French under Domuouriez, when, 10,000 
fted 40 leagues before 1,800 Prussian hussars. 
iSbte;.— Des Voyageurs. The lino is contmuod 

to ste. ILinftboald.] 

At Noyion-Porcien, via Amagne-Lucqny and 
Revigny (page 288), is ChAtbau-Pobcikk, under 
an old Castle on a rock, which biolonged to the 
Counts of ChampagDe. 

SaulceB-Mondln (5 miles). 

The line now traverses the valley of the Vence. 

LaunoiS (5 miles), on the Vence. 

[At 6 miles west-north-west is Siqnt l'Abbate, 
so called from remains of a Bcnedictlue Abbey ^ 
founded 1134, by St. Bernard, and endowed by 
a seigneur of Ch&tillon, to whom the saint gave 
a written contract, kindly promising him as 
many acres in heaven as he had made a dona- 
tion of on earth. The original document was 
to be seen here till the last century.} 

Pass Polx-Terroa (5 mlles), &c., and 10 miles 
further, passing twite over the Venee, and twice 
over the Meuse, is 

tf EZIEBES (162 miles from Paris). 

Population, 6,700. 

HoTBLS.— Du Palais Royal; du Cheval blanc. 

This small, dull capital of department Ardennes, 
is a military post of the second class, opposite 
Cbarleville, close to the Belgian frontier, on a 
bend of the Mouse, In a pleasant hilly spot, sur- 
rounded by Vauban's Lines and a citadel. It is 
as old as 847, when a castle was built here, which 
the Counts of Rethel took possession of. Among- 
the few buildings worth notice are, the old Gothie 
Church, built 1412-1506, which has a good portal, « 



Houte 56.] 



HAKD-BOOK TO FRAKCC. 



245 ^ 



high ranlt, pftinted glass, and an inscription, 
** feliciter," piit «p when Charles IX. married bis 
wife here, 1570. At the H6tel de Yille, buUt 1T82, 
is the flag of the Chevalier Sapard, '' sans peur et 
sans reproche,'* who with 2,000 men defended the 
town against a force of 40,000 Anstrians, in 1521, 
when bombshells were used for the first time ; tliis 
hag is carried in procession every 27th September. 
It also stood a seven weeks' siege in 1815, after 
Waterloo. Both it and Charleville were evacuated 
by the Germans, 22nd July, 1873, exactly three 
years after the blowing up of the bridge of Kiel; 
thus ending the occupation of France. The Hotel 
Dieu was built 1746. It has some historical 
pictures. 

Metal works, chiefly iron. Bail to Hirson (35 
miles), Sedan, Givet, Verdun, Metz, Ae. 

From M^zi^res, on the rail to Namur, you pass 

CliarleYllle, only i of a mile, by a viaduct, 
near the suspension bridge, on the Meuse. It was 
built by, and called after, Charles, Duke of No vers 
and Mantua, 1606; and has a modern Church; H6tel 
de Ville; Hotel Dieu ; a new College and Seminary, 
with a chapel; Theatre; and Blbliothbque of 24,000 
volumes, with a Museum of natural history. Palace 
Ducale has a fountain. A castle stood on Mont 
Olympe. Population, 17,390, who make nails, fire- 
arms, iron goods. Hotels. — Du Commerce; de 
r Europe. 

liail, down the Meuse, to Charleroi and Brussels, 
to Sedan, Ac. Two bridges cross the Meuse. 
From Sedan it is continued to Thionvillo or 
Diedenhofeu (Route 56), and from Charleville to 
Givet; thus completing the north-east frontier 
line. 

Pass Nouson (4| miles), Ac, to DevlUe (8f 
miles), to the west of which is 

RocBOT, or Rocroi^ a fortress of the fourth class, 
with a frontier custom-house or douane, on a plain, 
1,190 feet above the sea, where the great Condd, 
when Duke of Enghien, and only twenty-two years 
old, gained bis famous victory over the Spaniards, 
19th May, 1643. The town stands among the 
f«»rc8t8 of Ardennes, and was foimded by Francis I. 
Population, 2,265. Hotel. — De France. Coach to 
Couvtn. It is about 53 miles to Landt«cies(Route6). 

Pui&ft^ (IS miles), on the If ease, is noted for Its 
AnlojH^res, or SI«U Worki, fh the bills here, 



through which the river has made a deep cutting. 
An old Castle stands over it. Merinoes, flannels, 
steam engines, and glass, are made. Population, 
5,065. It was the centre of a little neutral sppt, 
when joined to France, 1770. 

Glyet (15 miles), a fortified town on the Memse, 
close to the Belgian frontier, in a hilly and rather 
picturesque spot, is composed of Petit Givet, at 
the end of the stone bridge, and Grand Givet, with 
Charlemont fort at the other end, the latter being 
on a high rock. It was used as a depot for English 
prisoners in the war, when the Rev. R. Tfolfe 
voluntarily laboured among twelve hundred of 
them, preaching the gospel, forming schools, Ac., 
as related in his work, ''English Prisoners in 
France." It has the churches of St. Hilaife and 
Notre Dame, a library of 5,000 volumes, and 
chamber of manufactures. Population, 7^083. 
Mdhul, the composer, was a native (butt at HAtel 
de Ville). 

Pottery, pipes, and Iron goods are made. In the 
neighbourhood is the old ChAteau of Mont d'Haur 
(near Vireux Wallerand); and up the river, the 
high sintc cliffs, called the DadieV de la Main. 
Boats ascend it to Mt^zi^reS. ' ' 

Hotel. —Hxi Mont d'Or. 

The rail proceeds down the river to Dinaut, and 
Namnr (In Belgium), and from thence to Waterloo 
and Brussels. The dark slaty cliffs of the river 
are high and imposing. (See Bradaha'w'i Hand- 
Book to Belgium and the Rhine.) 

JROTJTE ee, 

Bleiines to Oliaiimo&t. 

Distance by rail, 55| miles. 

Blesme, on the Strasbourg line (Route 54). 
Then over a wide plahi to 

St. DlZiet (7i miles), a sous-prefecture, in 
Haute-Mjirne (population, 18,37*2). on the Mame, 
among woods. It M'as besieged by Charles V., in 
1644, and mostly burnt by accident, 1776. It has 
part of an old Castle, near the Gothic Church, and 
a modem Hdtel de Ville. 

/ro/e/«.—Du Soleil d'Or (Golden Sun) ; du Com- 
merce. Wood is cnt and iron forged here. 



r 



246 



BR4D8UAW*S ILLUSTRATED 



[Sec. S. 



One of the forges, Marnaval, owes its origin, 
gays tradition, to the following story. Henry IV. 
haying visited St. Dlzier, the ^Jeherln or sheriff, 
Beandesson, came to pay his respects. He was so 
like the king, that the guard presented arms and 
•ounded trumpets, to the astonishment of Henry, 
who, putthig his head out of the window, asked if 
there were two kings there. Beaudesson entered, 
and the king, surprised at the likeness, inquired if 
his mother had ever been at B^am (where Henry 
came from). "No, sire," answered the sheriff, 
" but my father has travelled a good deal." The 
king was so tickled with the repartee, that he told 
Beaudesson to ask whatever he liked. He asked 
to build a forgo on the Mame ; and this was the 
origin of Marnaval. 
Short branch to Revlgny (page 288). 
^rancA /JaiUo VaBfy (U* miles), t»<4 ElflarOIL 
rVaSBy, or WaMy, a gous-pr^fecture, on the site, 
some 'say, of Vatsiacum, which was burnt by 
Caracalla in 2 11 . Roman coins have been found. 
An inscription near the hospital marks where a 
massacre of the Protestants took place, 15C2, by 
the Due de Guise. Population, 8,886 Uotd,^ 
Du Commerce. From Vassy the rail Is carried 

to Dommartln, ConrcelleB-sur-Blalie, 

and Doulevant-le-Ch&teaU, whence coach 
to Chaumont, 26* ^,,lles. At Eclaron the 

above line turns off to Brlexme-le-Gli&tean 

and Jessalns (page 255), thence on one side 
to Troyes (Sl miles), and on the other 
through Bar-sur-Aube to Chaumont (p. 255).] 

Eurvllle (6 miles), on the Mame. 
ChevUlon (« miles), further up the Mame 
Jolnvllle (« miles), an old place in a pleasant 
spot on the Mame, among vineyards and iron 
forges, under a hill, on which stood (till the Duke 
of Orleans pulled It down, 1790) the old Cattle of 
the Sires de JoinviUe and the Dues de Guise, 
where the famous Catholic League was entered 
into, 1685. The Prince de Jolnville takes his title 
hence. One of its lords was the Sieur de Joinviile, 
who wrote the "Histoire de St. Louis IX. du nom," 
which gives a charming picture of the French 
knight of that age, and of his excellent and pious 
sovereign. 

Vignory (6f miles). 



BolQgne (6 miles), and its tuima. Here a branch 
rati turns off to Neufchftteau, 31 miles. 

[It passes Chantraines, Anddlot (H miles), 

on the Rognon, Bourmont St. Blatn (7 
miles), Ac, to Nenfch&teau (144 mUes) on 
the Mouse, as in Route 64 (page 289); and is 
continued to Pagny on the Strasbourg line, 
page 238.] 

And 9 miles further is 

Ohaiimont, on the Paris, Troyes, and Mulhouse 
line. (See Route 62.) 

TtOTTTE BT- 
Nancy to Metz. 

By branch rot7 (from Frouard) 70 miles to For- 
bach, in 8| to 4i hours. 

Nancy. «s in Route 64, on the Strasbourg line, 
220 miles from Paris. 

Frouard (6i miles). The Moselle is navigablo 
from here. Pompoy (li mUe). 

Marbache (2^ miles). 

DiOUlOUard (4i miles), an ancient villoge on a 

rock, by the Moselle, on the site of Scarpone, or 

Sai-pane, which the Huns destroyed (906). It has 

a Gothic church of the 1 5th century, and a ruined 

Chateau. Coins and remains of a Roman way have 

been found at Scarpone. Through a pretty valley, 

to 
P0nt-il-M0U8S0n (4i miles), a town of 11,595 

souls, at the brick bridge (pont) on the Moselle, 
under Mousson hill, which is crowned by a ruined 
Oxstle of the 12th century. Here are a Gothic 
Church of the 18th century, with two good six- 
sided towers on square bases ; large cavalry bar- 
racks ; part of St. Marie's old abbey; and an 
arcaded place (square), in which stands a House 
carved over with the Sept P^ch^s Capitaux (seven 
capital sins), in the quaint coarse style of the 
middle ages. Marshal Duroc was a native. 
Charles III,, Duke of Lorraine, founded an univer- 
sity here. Hotel.— Ve France. 

PagXiy-8Ur-M0Belle (5f miles) is under the 
fine ruins of Pr^uy, or Prignp Castle, built In the 
lOih century, a celebrated fortress from which the 
Dukes of Lorraine took ihelr war-crj' of " Prigny! 
Prigny!'' French customs-house. Railway con- 
nection with places on the German frontier 

northwards, as OnYUle, Cliambley, Mars-la- 
Tour, Oonflaiui-Janiy, Verdim (page 287), 
Brtey. Hqtielmgn^ Bwronoourt, Lqu^pajoji, 



Route 58.] 



HAND-BOQK TO FBAMCE. 



247 



• longwy, VlUerupt (below), and Mont St 
Martin* The river improves in beauty, to the 
suspension bridge at 

NOY^ant (8| miles) ; here is the new German 
customs-house. Between it and the next station 
are seen (at Jouey), near the river, 20 or 21 fine 
Roman archea of the Aqueduct^ which went to Metz ; 
one arch across the road is 60| feet high. 

Ars (3i miles), or Arches-sur-Moselle, from the 
remains of the same Aqueduct visible here. At 5 
miles further is 

Metz, the capital of German Lorraine, or Loth- 
ringcn, annexed to the German Empire since the 
war. For this and the remainder of the line to 
Forbach, Ac, see Bradshavo^s Hand-Book to Bel- 
gium and the Rhine. 



Mets to Ttiionyllle, Montm^y, Sedan, 

M^zl^res. 

By rail. For the first part of this route, viz.: 
Metz to Thionrillc, now annexed to Germany, see 
BraJshatD's Hand-Book of Belgium and the Rhine. 

At TMonvUle, the German Diedenhofen, 

the line turns olf north-west towards M^zl^res, 
along the Belgian frontier, past several memor- 
able spots, which figured in the war of 1870-1. 

Hayange (H miles), an industrious village in a 
pretty part of the Feusch, among iron and coal 
works, near the Chandebourg mineral springs. 
Then Fontoy (5 miles), AudiUL-le-Boman (5| 
miles), Jopp^COnrt (4} miles), and Piempont (6 
miles), all in a busy mineral district; followed 
by Longnyon (5| miles), on the Chiers, which has 
ironworks and factories for fire-arms. Buffet. 

Here the line to Arlon, in Belgium, turns off trid 

Cons-la-aranTllle (6i miles) and Longwy (8| 

miles). 
[Longwy (10 miles from Longuyon), or Longus- 
Vieus, on the Belg^ian frontier, includes the 
Basse (lower) Ville, on the Chiers, and Haute 
Ville, on the hills above, strongly fortified by 
Yauban. It belonged to the Dukes of Lor- 
raine till the French acquired it, 1679; and 
was taken by the Prussians, 1792. The rail is 
extended to Vlllempt (11 miles).] 
The next stations, descending the Chiers, are 
Veiln (5| miles), Velomei, and 

MontmMy (7| miles from Vexin), a sous-pre- 
fecture in department Meuse, of 2,782 souls, anc^ 



one of Vauban's fortified towns of the fourth cI&bm, 
irregularly built on the Chiers— the upper town 
being placed between two hills (monsmedius), from 
which the town derives its name. It was taken by 
France, 1657. Hero the French were defeated, 
August, 1871. Trade in pottery (formerly made 
by gipsies) here, ffotel. — St. Nicholas. 
At 8f miles to the north is the deserted Gothie 
church of Ayioth, with some elegant carvings 
and light spires; near it is a small chapel, 
having a pretty spire porch in front. Many 
traces of Roman possessions were found in 
1823. To the west-south-west (9^ miles) is 
Btenay, an old place on the fiats of the 
Meuse (now a station 24 miles from Sedan; 
population, 3,489), called Satanacum, when the 
kings of Austrasia had a seat here. Louis 
XIV., in 1648, gave it to Condd, and captured 
it a few years after from the leaders of the 
Fronde, who made a treaty \:ith the Spaniards 
here. There are cavalry barracks, iiaw mills, 
and iron mines. Connection with £C0UVleZ 
and Virton, in Belgium, l\ mile] 
Tunnel, viaduct over the Thonne, and bridge. 
After this, the line passes Chauyency (3| miles), 
LamOUilly (3| miles), MargUt (4| miles), and 
Blagny, in deportment Ardennes, to 

Carignan (5 miles fh)m Margxit), on the Chiers, 
which joins tlie Meuse above Sedan. Formerly 
called Ivoi, and belonged to the families of Soissons 
and Penthibvre. It was part of Luxembourg 
before the peace of Ryswick, 1698. The French 
sustained a defeat here, August, 1871. There is a 
short branch rail to Messempr^, 

Lc&ving this, we come to Bachy, Ponim- 
Br^vUly (fij miles from Carignan), and Douiy 
(If mile). 

Bazeilles, with its 700 houses, and 2,000 to 
3,000 population, was miserably burnt before the 
capitulation of Sedan, 1870. It has been restored 
again, and a War Memorial set up. Next is 
Pont-MatlgiB (li mile), with a branch of 
6 miles to RauCOOrt ; and then 

Sedan (Si mllcs), on the MeuFc; a sous-prefec- 
ture (population, 20,292) and fortified town of the 
third class, in a fiat spot. It had a castle in the 
9th century, belonging to the archbishop of Reims, 
which came to the ferocious De la Marck, the 
Wild Boar of Ardennes, in the 17th cent' 



S48 



BBASiHAW'S ILLtJiffBATBD 



[&l«e. 5. 



iVfTMNi was b<nm, 1611 , In ike olfl ehftieati— « 

: gtte notr marked by a Wonfc; a bronze of Mm by 

Gols, standi near the H6tel de Ville. He was 

• brought up at Bazoilles. Here died, in 1862, 

another French Marshal, Fabert ; a fine genius, 

cand a high-minded man. 

Sedan is well built, with many grey houses of 
stone and slate, among meadows, backed by woods; 
but the streets are nati-ow, and the water is 
so bad that the people are subject to goitres in 
the neck. There are a Citadel (l«th Century), three 
' barracks, one being for cavali-y, a well-supplied 
arsenal and magazines, and a military hospital, 
on a hill, 130 feet above the river. A large 
tree, called Trois Frbrea, stands on the Garenne 
promenade. The Protestant temple contains tombs 
of Henri de la Tour d'Auvergne, his wifb, Ac. 

Here was fought the disastrous Battle of Ist 
September, 1870, between the French, under 
Napoleon III. and Marshal McMahon, and the 
Germans, under King William I. of Prussia; the 
'French being completely defeated, and obliged to 
surrender their whole army— upwards of 80,000 
men— as prisoners of war to the Germans. Mc- 
Mahon was disabled by a wound, and resigned the 
command to General Wlmpffen, who signed the 
articles of capitulation. The rain poured Inces- 
santly dnrlng the fight. 

The fempferor, upon giving himself up the day 
• after, was sent to WilhelmshUhe, near Casscl. His 
meeting with the King took place at M. AmoUf's 
' Chdteau de Bellevue, 3 miles west, on a point over- 
looking the battle-field, after an interview with 
Bismarck at the Weavei'^s Cottage ;\ioi\i of which 
were visited by the trlnce of Wales, August, 1871. 
The German head-qnartfets staff was at Done/iery, 
to which the King came up from Pont-i-MousSon, to 
watch the fight. At first he thought the Emperor 
had escaped, but was assured of final success by 
seeing a flag of truce. The French, who fought 
with desperation, were caught hi the trap laid for 
.them by Moltke, in their attempts to relieve Metz. 
The weaving and dyeing of cloth of noted quality 
employs 10,000 hands here and in the neighbour- 
hood; there are also metal works. 

HoteIs.^T>& la Croix d'Or; de I'EUrope. Ball 
. to M€ziferes, Verdun, Ac. The rail to Charletrille 
•.was opened in Deeeniber, 1866, {lassing two tia- 
''"RtsQutheMailfce. 



DoudieTy (if mlleiOi ^ null ^o^ni <»ii the 
Meuse, with manufactures of laei, Ac. It was 
the German head-quarters at the battle ftf BMMl. 

Kouvion-itir-tteiifte (8f miles), fon^wea fey 
Obarldtllle (3f miles), opposite 

MiAkreB, on the Meuse, as in Routd 66. 

rotjt:b ^0- 

Nancy to Epinal, Mulhouse, Grky, Vefccnd, 
and Besanfion. 
t(9Jicy and Varaiigevllle-St.-Niiaicfl48 (8 

miles), as on the Strasbourg line, in Route H. 

BoBl^refl-aux-Sallnes (3J miles) and 

Blalnyille-lll-Qrande (4f miles) ; both on the 
main line. 

Here the line turns off to ElilYanx (4} miles). 
Bayon (4 J miles). Valley of the Moselle.' 

Obarmea (7 miles), on the Moselle. Rail to 
Mirecourt, Vlttel, Contrex^viUe, Bourbonhe-les- 
Balns (see Route 62). Branch Rail of 17 mUea to 

RambervUlers (population, 5,156). 

[llirecoiirt (12i miles south-west), on the rail 
from Neufcliftteau to Epinal, is a sous-prefec- 
ture, on the Madon ; with an old church ; and 
a Museum of Natural History. Hotel.—Dn 
Commerce. Population, 6,141. Lace and 
musical instruments are made.] 
GhitelrllOlliexy (6i miles), on the Moselle. 
At 8i miles further, in the old province of Alsace, is 

BPIViLL, 
461 miles from Nanby, 8661 milea from Paris. 
HottLS.— De la Poste? du Lwivue; da Com- 
merce. 

Population, 88,2*8. Chief town of department 
Vosges, on the Moselle, in a hollow, on the slope of 
the Tosgea inoufttalns, 1,656 f^et abqve the sea, 
with the ruins of its old Castle seated on a FOCk 
higher up. The river divides It into Grande Ville 
ahd Petite Ville (Joined by a stone and a 8i»st>ension 
bridge) and the Fattbourg, near the «»nal. It is 
well built, and provided with fountains; but the 
buildings are of no oonsBquence. The large eollege 
belonged to the Jesuits ; the Capuchin convent, now 
ttimed into a hospital, has extensive gardens 
round It; the parish church has a good choir. 
There are, besides, a library of 17,006 volumes, a 
museum, orphan asylum, cttalry ba^ack«> the 
Oealdat gardens, largft vrtson, ftnd seTers) IMper 
wtrki. Tlieriv»rniak«»«»*e*9«f*»- A«iw«- 



Reitte 59.] 



HAMO-BOOK TO TBAMCE. 



d49 



taent to those who fdl 1870-71 was erected 1675. 

Trade in images, largely made here. 
Rail direct to JttSSeyi on the Belfort line (see 

page 256). 
[By rat'/ to Remiremont, np the Moselle, yon 
pass Dlnoze (3| miles), to Arches (7^ mlies), 
where the branch to LaTeline turns oflF, as in 
Ronte 60; then POUZOUZ (3 miles), Eloyes 
(I mile), and St. Nabord (2f miles), to 
ttfemireinont (H miles), a sons-prdfectnre In 
department Vosges (with a population of 9,374), 
In a pretty talley under the Vosges mountains, 
Just above where the two heads of the Moselle 
join. It is well laid out, with wide streets 
and fountains, and has a new Hospital. It 
began in an abbey for canonesses, founded 620, 
rebuilt in the Italian style, 1751, and now used 
as the Mairie, containing the Library of 7,000 
volumes, and a good Cabinet of mineralogy. 
Jffota. — De la Postc. Trade in Gdromd cheese, 
kirsch-wasser (cherry brandy), pfttds de truite 
(trout pies). The Bouchot and Cave falls 
are near Vagny, on the Clurie (10 miles). To 
Flotnbi^res (8^ miles). [Branch of the Afoselotie 
Line (14J miles) to VagHey, THidftJBse, 
BftUlXtttdfl, and Comlmoht, under the 
Vosges Hills.] The main line proceeds for 17 

miles to Yecoux, Perdrupt.Le ThUlot, St. 

Uamice, and Bussang. St. Maurice stands 
under the Batton cT Alsace^ one of the highest 
(i,160 feet) of the Vosges, which commands a 
▼iew of vast extent, taking in the plains of 
Alsace, the Black Forest (in Baden), and the 
nearer Alps. It is lower by 108 feet than the 
Ballon de Onobwiller, over St. Amarin. 
Further on, you come to Bussailgf in a 
deep gorge of the Vosges, with 2,814 souls, 
and excellent mineral waters. Then to the 
picturesque valley of St. Amariv, near the 
new Gei-man border, and the old castles 
of Fi'iedbourg, Stocnbonrg, and Wildenstein. 
O^rardmer, IS^ miles from Remiremont 
(see alx)ve), is near a lake at the head of the 
Vologne, among the Vosges forests, and is 
noted for its cheese. Population, 7,197. See 
page 960. ffotel.—Gr&nd Hotel du Lac— Very 
well 8it«at«d 00 the Uke, with bfeautiful view. 
ParK. See Advt, 



A short distance fri/m Bussang is 
Weftserliiig, where the railway is taken for 
MulhOtiae or MtUliatlBeil, on the ^traasburg 
and Basle Railway. See Bretdshaw's Band- 
Book to Belgium and the Rhine.} 
The line is continued from Epinal as below,, vid 
Vesoul to Gray, bringing Nancy into direct eom- 
mnnication with the southern lines. 

Dbimoux (11 miles). Xertlgny (8 miles), 

among ironworks, at the head of the Sa6ue. 

La Chapelle-au-Boia. 

Bains (ll miles from Xertigny), or Bains-les- 
Bains, in a well-wooded valley on the Coucy, and 
so named from its tpaim Spnngs^ called the Old and 
New Baths, and Fontaine de la Vache, useful as 
tonics in nervous and rheumatic complaints. The 
season is from the middle of May to that of Sep- 
tember ; there are a saloon, good lodgings, prome- 
nades, with traces of Roman occupation. Popula- 
tion, 2,691. ^o<e/.— De la Clef-de-Or. 

AllleVlllers (8f miles), the junction for the 
PLOHBitBKS and Luxeuil Spas (7| miles). 

[PLOHBIEBES. 

Population, 1,869. 

HoTELa.— Grand Hotel; del'Ours; Teted'Or. 

A noted toatering-place^ among hill-foi ests, in the 
valley of the Angronne, along which is the Pro- 
menade des Dames.lald out by Stanlalau8,King 
of Poland, 1775, and leading to Moulin JoH, a 
mill so called by the Empress Josephine. The 
town is frequently called Plombiferes-les- 
Bains. 

The Baths are hot and cold, and are iised from 
May to October, by several thousand visitors. 
They are for the most part saline and tonic, 
and, as usual, are regulated by government. 

Bain des Dames is the site of a nunnery ; Bain 
des Ancient, or Grand Bain, the oldest, is used 
by the poor ; Bain Tempere, charge 40 to 70 
centimes; Bain National, or Bain Neuf, has a 
salle de com(?dio (for balls, &c.) ; The Bain 
Romain is the most elegant. Another is called 
Bain des Capucins; and there are also the Fon- 
taines du Crucifix, Savonneuses, and la Bour- 
deille (containing iron). Here Cavour had a 
meeting with the Emperor, July, 1858, before 
tb« Italian war. 



r 



250 



BRADSHAW'S ILMJ8TRATED 



[Sec. o. 



Excursions in the neighbourhood — to Jacquot 
Farm; the Vald'Ajol; the ralieys of Erival 
(and its abbey) and dcs Roches; the Tonnere 
Stone, Ac. They sell wood carvings and kirsch- 
wasser (cherry brandy) here. Conveyances^ in 
the season, to Remiremont. 
Rail to FOUgerolleS (4^ miles from Aillevillers, 
or 7 miles from Plombibres), the chief seat 
of the Kirschwiuser trade, of which there are 
several important houses here. Its perfume 
arises from the minute quantity of prussic 
acid found in the cherry kernels. Population, 
6,030. Thence to FaSOnoilt (7 miles). 
From AlUeyUlers, a branch to Lure (page 257), 
28 miles long, passes Fontaine and Luxeuil 
(4 miles). 
LllzeuU, another phice for mineral baths, in a 
plain under the Vosges mountains, covered 
with woods. The Breusse divides it from the 
large village of St. Sauveur. 
It was known to the Romans, as proved by a 
inscription at the Hotel de Ville, in the Rue 
dcs Remains, where the Baths stand, in the 
midst of fine grounds, under the names of 
Bains des Femmes^ des Hommes^ &c. They are 
of a similar quality to those of Plombiferes. 
Luxcull has a college, and an old Benedictine 
Abbey. Trade in hams, cattle, wine, grain. 
Population, 4,811. Hotels. — ^Marchand; du 
Lion Vert (Green Lion).] 
St. Lonp (8i miles). Population, 8,605. 
Gonflans-Vaxlgney (5 miles), the junction for 
Langres (page 256) and Fayemey (7i miles), to 
Port d'AteUer-Amance (3J miles), on the Bel- 
fort line. Hence to Port-8Ur-Sa6ne (4} miles) ; 
Vaivre (5 miles) ; and 

VeSOUl (2 J miles), as in Route 62. At Vaivre 
is where the continuation to Gray runs off. By 
another rail to 

Besan^On (29i miles; Route 21), vi& Mont- 
l>020n and Moncey, on the Oignan. 

KOXTTE eo. 

Spinal to St. Di^, the Ban de la Roche, 
and Strassburg. 

By rail to St. Di€, 24 miles. 
Epinal, as in Route 59. 

From Epinal, the line, called Ligne de la 
^"'oflwe, in connection with tbf) Chemint defir dei 



Vosges, proceeds up the Vologne, parting oflf at 
Arches, H miles from Epinal, as in Route 59. 
It passes JarmtoU (H miles), DoceUdS Ui 
miles), Deycimont (2i miles) Lepangos (»i 

mile), to Bmy^reS (3| miles) and LaYOllne (21 
miles). 

At Laveline, a branch of 11 miles goes off to 
Oranges, in a fine mountain valley, and Q^rard- 
mer (page 249). This is a place in the heart of 
the Vosges monntains, from which a fall called 
the Saut des Cuves, the Lakes of G&ardmer and 
Retoufnemer, and the ScMucht, and the Hofmeck^ 
tAvo of the finest mountain peaks in the range, 
may be visited. 

From Laveline the St. Di^ line proceeds to 

Biifontaine, Condenx, and St. Leonard 

(II miles from Laveline); where a short branch 
of 5 miles turns off to Fralze. 
From St. Leonard it is 5 miles to 
[St. Di^, or St. Diey, wlicre the line makes a 
junction with the Lundville and St. Di^ rail 
(Route 64). It is a sous-prefecture in depart- 
ment Vosges, and bishopric, on the Meurthe, 
rebuilt (after a fire, 1766), by Stanislaus, King 
of Poland. It stands under Mont d' Ornon ; and 
has a cathedral, partly Romanesque, and the 
Petite Eglise, 11th century; palace, with fine 
garden; Hotel de Ville, and fountains. Popu- 
lation, 18,136. 
One road leads hence, over the Vosges, to 
La Poutrotb (22 miles), on the Wess, and the 
lakes at its source, called Lac Blanc and Lac 
Noir, or Black and White. They are near the 
highest part of the mountain range. At ISmiles 
further is Oolmar, on the Slrapsburg railway. 
Another road brings you to Gemaincottb (7J 
miles) ; and 7^ miles further east, to Maxkirch 

or ste. Marie-auz-Mines, on the i.iep- 

vrette, in Alsace, in a pretty valley under the 
highest part of the Vosges, and so called from 
the mines (now worked out) around it. Popu- 
lation, about 12,000, some of them descendants 
of the turbulent Munster Anabaptists. Good 
mineral spHngs; the air is sharp and bracing. 
At 18J miles, by rail, beyond this (past 
Weilerthal, near St. Hippolyte and its 
castle), is SChlettStadt, on the Striissburg 
railway.^ 



Boutes Gl and 62.] 



HAMD-BOOK TO FRAKCB. 



^ 



251 



Raon I'Etape (I2 mllcs), on the Meorthe, a 
station on the Lnn^ville and St. Di^ rail (Route 54) 
which descends past Baccarat to Lun^ville, Ac. 
Up the Plahie, a branch of the Meurthe, or else 
by vray of Senones (page 241) and St. Jean du 
Mont, is 

SciiiKmcK (about 22i miles), in the Vosgcs, or 24 
miles from St. Di€, as above, over the new Germnn 
frontier. About 6 miles south is the Ban de la Roche, 
for which, and the rest of the road to Strassburg, 
soe Bradshate's Hand-Book to Belgium and the 
Rhine. 

ROXJTB ei. 

Strassburg to Hagenau, Weissemburg, 

and Maimlieiiii. 

For the country along this route, now trnns- 
f«'rrcd to C^crmany, see BradshawU Hand-Book to 
Belgium and the Rhine. 



SUB-SECTION B.— ROUTES VIA THE 
DIRECT BELFORT LINE. 

ROXTTE es. 

Paris to Montereau. Troyes, Cbaumont, 
Gray, Langrei. Bourbonne-les- Bains. 
Vesoul, PlomW^res, Belfort, and Mul- 
liouse. 

By rail, 304i miles. This is the shortest route to 
Mnlhouse; through trains, 12 to 16 hours. Opened, 
1858. Embai cadfere in Place de Strasbourg. 

A suburban branch of this line to Vlacennes 
and Vemeull-rEtang sta ts from Place de 
la Bastille, passing Bel Air, St. Mand6, Vln- 

cennes, (see page 77); then Fontenay-sous- 
Bols, Nogent-sur-Marne, Jo'nvUle-le-Pont 
St. Maur-Port Cr^teU, Pare de St. Maur 
Ohampjgny, and La Varenne-Chennevi^rea 

Hence to Sucy-Bonneull. for Juvlsy, Ac. (page 
103), on the Grande Ceinture. Then Bolssy- 

St. leger (page 78), Brle-Comte-Robert 

(page 78), and VemeulL 
For Belfort, we follow the Strasbourg line to 
Nolsy-le-SeC (H miles), on the Paris Ceinture 

Rail, after which it turns off to 
ROSny-SOUS-BolS m mllos), followed by 

Nogent-St-Mame-Bry (2f miles), close to 
the viaduct over the Mame, 2,8.6 feet long, on 30 
arches, the middle ones being 164 feet wide, and 
S7 feet high. Correspondances to Petit Bry, 
Aq4 Nolsjr-le-Gran*?- 



ymiers-SUr-BCame m miles), in depart- 
ment S(;ino-ct-Mamo. Correspondances to Plessis- 
Tr^vise. 

EmeralnvUle-Pontault (H miles). Coaches 
to Pontault. 

Ozouer-la-Ferrl6re (3 miles), in the Forest of 
Annalnvilliers. 

Gretz-Armalnyilllers (8| miles); Corrc- 

Fpondance to Chevry. Here the branch rail to 
Coulommlers (20| miles) turns off. 

[It passes Touman (U mile), Marles-la- 
Houssaye (5 miles), Uortcerf (H miles), 
Ou^rard (3f miles), Faremoutlers r2f 

miles) on the Aubelin, MOUTTOttZ (2| miles), 
and Coulommlers (if mile\ on the Horin, 
described in Route 54, page 231.] 

VlllepatOUr-Presles (3^ mi'cs). Corre- 
spondance to Coubort. 

OzOUer-le-VoulglS (3 miles). 

Verneull-Cliaumes (2^ miles). Corrcspond- 
ance to Guignes, And ezel, Champc lux. 

Mormant (SJ miles), has a good spire church, 
and (in its neighbourhood) the moated Chateau de 
Breuoy; with another at Courpa'aia or Grange 
Rlenau, which belonged to Lafayette's family. 
Here Lafayette lived, and was visited by Fox, Mho 
planted the ivy over the gateway. It has portraits 
of Presidents of the United States, and of Frank- 
lin, Kosciusko, Bailly, Rochefoucauld, Ac, besides 
the Flag of the States, given to Lafayette on his 
last visit to America. Correspondance to Melun. 

Grand-Pnlts (3f miles). 

NanglS (3i miles), in a fertile hollow of the 
Brie country, has a population of 2,885, who trade 
in com, butter, cheese. Two towers of the Chateau 
of its marquises remain, besides an ancient Gothic 
church. Napoleon defeated the Allies here, 1814. 
There is a still older church at Rampillon (4 kil. 
east). Correspondance to Jouy-le-Chfitel. 

Malson-Bonge m miles), or London. 

Coaches to Donnemarie and Chcnoise. 

Longuevllle (5) miles). Here a short branch 
rail of 8 1 miles turns off past Ste-Colombe to 
Provins. 

[PrOYlns. Population, 8,840; 
IIotels.^Iic la Boule a'Or ; d^ In Fo-' ' 



r 



S02 



BRA1>«IU-W S ILIiUSTlliiTSJD 



[Sec. 5. 



A sons^r^fecture in dqMirtm^t Beine-et-M Mne, 
in a fertile spot, on the Voulzie and Dnzetin, 
on the side of a hill. There are many middle^ 
age remains of walls and buildings, from its 
having grown oat of a royal Castle^ foonded 
before 1120, by Thibault VI., Count of Cham- 
pagne. In Haute Yille are traces of the 
Cti&teau, and St. Quiriace's Churchy which has 
a good choir and cupola. Near it stands the 
Tour de C^sar, buUt in the 13th century, Old 
Palace (now a college), a Grange aux Dimes 
(tithe farm), and old Fountain. 

The two old Gates of St. Jeau and Jouy lead 
down to Basse Yille, where the modem houses 
are surrounded by walls, with two churches ; 
the old Cordeliers convent, now the hospital, 
founded by the Thibaults, 1050; a Theatre; 
and a mineral Spring (with a bath-house), use- 
ful in cases of debility. Part of the old town 
is excavated into cares and underground 
passages. Host of the buildings are 13th 
century. 

Trade in grain, wood, leather, and confectionery 
made from roses, grown here — the true seat of 
the Provins (not Provence) Rose. 

About lOJ miles to the north, near Lonan, are the 
fine and extensive ruins of Mout4niUl<'n« in ft 
forest.] 
At the next station, 

FlambOln-CtotiaiX (9i miles), is the Branch 
Rail down the Seine to Ho&tereau, uniting this 
with the Lyon« rail. 
[The first station is 
Lea Qrmes (3 miles). Population, 8M. 

VimpelleS (if mlle). Population, 606. A 

pretty spire. 
Chfttenay (4$ miles). Population, 620. 

MontsreaU (S miles), on the Lyons rail, as in 
Route 20. A viaduct on 4 arches, each 79 feet 
span, crosses the Yonne.] 

On the main line, the next station to Flamboin is 

Henn6 (3 miles), near the Chftteauof Flambolx. 

Melts (3 miles) on the Forgt river; beyond which 
a viaduct In three parts, 216 feet long, crosses the 
Bcine, near Bcrnicrcs Ch&teau. 

Nogent-BOT-fiMoa C^l miles). 

ffoteh.^JH la Clef d' Argent; de I'Ecu. 



A soiu-pr^ectnre (in department Anbe) of S,704 
aonU, on the Seine, omwsite the weir or fall, where 
it iMComes navigable. It belonged to St. Denis's 
abbey, and came aft length to the family of Cardinal 
de Noailles. The Allies, mnder Prince Scbwartzen- 
burg, took it by storm, when held by Bourmont in 
1814, when the Hotel de Yille and a bridge were 
destroyed. The large ClUtrdt was built between 
the reigns of Charles YI. and Henry II.; its 
tower lias a turret (built 1531-4^), with a figure of 
St. Laurent on top. There are some pictures of 
value. Trade in millinery, grain, charcoal, leatb'er, 
and ropes. 
[About 6 miles east south-east, on the Ardusson, 
arc remains of the monastery founded, 1133, by 
Aboard, who fled here from his enemies, and 
called it Paraclete (<.«., comforter) ; which be- 
came a convent under his wife, Heloise, and 
was the burial-place of both. Their bodies 
remained here till they were removed to Pbre 
la Chaise, 1793, and placed under the monu- 
ment brought from Aboard' s first grave, at 
Cbalons-sur-SaOue. Apillar set up by General 
Pajol marks the spot where they lay before 
this cliange. 
YiLLSNAuxs (5^ miles), on the line from 
Romilly to Chfttean-Thierry, is on a branch of 
the Seine, and was once fortified. The Bene- 
dictine monks of Nesle la Reposte Abbey 
(founded 501), came here in the 16th century, 
and rebuilt their Church of the original stones, 
as it now stands— a large and elegant struc- 
ture, having a light spire, beautiful stained 
windows of the sixteenth centmy, when the 
art was perfected, and, among other carvings, 
a curious one in the porch, of a web-footed 
queen, supposed to be Clothilde.] 
I^Ont-SUr-Seine kH miles), or Pont-le-Roi, in 
a pretty spot on the Seine, where the Anbe joins, 
had a hunting C^dteau of the Counts of Champagne, 
built by Le Muet, in which Napoleon's mother 
lived. Being burnt by the Russians, 1814, it was 
rebuilt by Casimir Pcrier, 1880, in the Italian 
style. Population, 1,R50. In the neighbourhood 
is a large dolmen or Cfotn/ecA, of one great stone on 
three or four others t besides others lying abont, 
ealled by the people Jhn^fetwx Romain* (iloman 
Tombs). 



Boute 6B.] 



HASD-BOOK TO FRAKC12. 



253 



ROttlUUr 0^1 miles^ in a fertUa kolloir on the 
S«ine, has a beautiful cMtitnt, on the 8it« of an 
old moated fortress. Population, 7,244. Within 
a short distance are two arches of the abbey of 
Scellieres, where Voltaire's body (having been re- 
fused burial at Paris) lay from 1778 till 1791, when 
it was moTed to the Pantlieon. A stone, witli A.V. 
on it, marks the spot. 

A liue (55 miles) connects Romilly with Ch&teau- 
Thierry. The principal stations are Yiilenanxe 
(above) and Montmirail (page 335). 

A branch rail of 50 miles turns off to AlMflupO ; 

S4saxme (below); F^e-Gliaiupo^olse (page 

235) ; Avize, Vertna (page S3G), and Qirj, near 

Epemay, on the Strasbourg line (page 236). 
[Suzanne, on the Anges, which supplies mills 
and bleach works, was a town of GaXlia- 
Comata, destroyed by Thibault IV., Count of 
Champagne. It was rebuilt and taken by the 
English, 1223; and suffered fro'n the Hugue- 
nots and from fire ; so that it has a modem, 
well-built look, with a good church, and 
hospital. Hotel, — De France. Population, 
4,772.] 
tiesgrlgny (7^ miles) is reached by a viaduct 

across the ^tang or lake. Coaches to M^ry. 

Plancy, and Arcis. 

St. Mesxnln (3f miles), so-called after St. Mes- 
min, whom Attila put to death, 451 ; before that 
it was called Brolium. 

Baxberey (8^ miles), in a good pasture country, 
noted for its cheeses, called Fromage de Troyes. 

TROTES. 

A bi^et. 108i miles from Paris, 20| from 
Mulhouse. 

POPCLATIOH, 60,380. 

Hotels. — Du Mulct; St. Laurent; du Com- 
merce; des Courriers. 

l@" Objects of Notice.— Cathedral— TheMall— 
Churches of St. Urban, Madeline, Pantaloon — Hdtel 
de Vine. 

Chief town of department Aube (formerly of 
province of Champagne), seat of a bishop, a society 
of agriculture, &c., in a wide and fertile plain 
(dotted with country-houses), on the Seine, which 
diTides itself here into several canals; though 
the water for drinking is entirely ds^wn from wells 
in the ehalk. 



It was the head tiywu of the TWcmm or Ti'tea, 
whence comas the mfOderu name. Attila threat- 
ened it, 4irl, and the VonAians pillaged it, 889, 
a few years after the meeting here oS Pope John 
YIII. and Louis lo B^gus about the succession to 
the imperial crown. Under its count, Thibault IV., 
in the 12th century, it became a great place for 
trading /atr«; and hence wo get the Troy Pound of 
twelve ounces. It was held by the English after 
the treaty of 1480, by which Henry V. married 
Katharine, daughter of Charles VI., at St. Jean's 
Chui'ch, and was to succeed to the French crown ; 
but Cliarles YII. retook it, 1489. The parliament 
of Paris was sent here, 1787. Napolecm made it 
his head-quarters, 1814. 

On the top of the old walla, built by the Romans, 
but much altered since their time, is a promenade 
called the Uall. The town gates are called Hector, 
Andromaque, Paris, and so on, all fancifully 
named in remembrance of old Troy. Porte St. 
Jaques, near the bridge, is flanked by two low- 
peaked Gothic towers and turrets. Close to the 
Porte de Paria was a royal chAteau, burnt in the 
great fire of 1524, along with a second, which be- 
longed to the Counts of Champagne, and a third 
which stood hard by the Cordeliers* convent ; which 
make some derive the town's name from Tres Arces 
(three castles). The streets are full of old gable- 
ended houses, of carved and plastered timber, as 
ancient as the 16th century, for the most part. 
Among its ten churches is 

8t. Etiemu's Cathedral, begun 1208-25 (on the 
site of one as old as 872), and carried on till the 
west front was built, about 1506-20. This front 
has a good tower, 880 feet high (there were to have 
been two), and a fine ataiued rose window. It is 
371 feet long, and 164 wide through the transept. 
The nave, exclusive of its five aisles, is 84 feet wide 
and 96 high, ornamented, like the choir, with win- 
dows of the 18th century, containing finely «/a<fl€d 
Portraits of kings, counts, bishops, saints, Ac, by 
Gonthier, all in costume. It was restored, 1866. 

St. Urban' s beautlfnl collegiate Church was built 
in the 18th century, by Pope Urban IV., bom the 
son of a tailor here, whose trade is painted in one 
of the windows. Excellent stained windows are 
seen, in Ste. Madeleine's ancient Churchy of the llth 
and 16th centuries, with a well-carved rood-loft (by 



1 



r 



304 



BRADSHAW'S ILLUSTRAtCBD 



[Sec. 54 



J. Gualde, 1618), one of five, for which the city was 
noted^ also in St, PatUaldon's^ which baa, besides, 
twenty statues close to its pillars. St. Nicholas 
offers a good portal ; St. Jean, an altar-piece of the 
Baptism of Christ, by Mignard, a native; St. 
Remiy a bronze crucifix. Si feet high, by Girardon, 
another native. 

The H6tel de F«/«, built 1624-70, by Mansart, 
has a good front, with busts of natives, and 
Oirardon's medallion of Louis XIV. At the Biblio- 
thfeque are as many as 80,000 volumes, and 2,700 
MSS., in a room 164 feet long ; also specimens of 
glass, painted by Linard-Gonthier, with scenes 
from the Life of Henry IV. The Mus^ contains a 
gallery of pictures, and a collection of minerals, 
coins, Ac. Two/om6» of Henry Land Thibault III. 
(1180-1200) are placed in the Bishop's Palace. 

Notice the old timbered abattoirs, or shambles, 
wine and com halls (the latter has a fine timbered 
roof), the statue of La Fontaine, the Hotel Mcs- 
grigny (16th century), opposite St. PantaWon, and 
the peplnifere, or nursery gardens. 
The manufactures are millinery and charcuterie, a 
chalk preparation, called blanc cTEspagne (Spanish 
white), cotton stockings, and caps. 

Rail to Bar-sur-Seine, ChatUlon-sur-Seine, and 
to Sens and Chalons. 

For Chalons, the rail passes ArdS-BUr-AUbe 
(page 237), 28 miles distant. 
[ArclS-STir-AUbe {Buffet), a sous-pr€fecture, in 
department Aube, of 2,841 souls, on the Aube 
(stone bridge), where it Isflrst navigable, is now 
a station on the State line between Troyes and 
Chalons, about half way from both. It was 
burnt in the defence made by Napoleon, with 
a small force, against 80,000 Anstrians, in 1814. 
A small suspension bridge, 66 feet long, leads 
to Dampierre, where the general of that name 
is buried, and which has a Ckdteau, built 1671, 
by Mansart. Good views from the hills around. 
Hotel— Be la Poste. Danton, the Terrorist, 
was born here.] 
For Sens, 41 miles distant, the rail passes 

Bstissae, Aiz-en-OtHe-Villeinaiir, Bag- 
neaux, Villeneuye rAr6h6T6qu6, Pont- 
gnr-Vaime. Malay-le-Roi, Ac, and is part of 
the State Outer Circle round Paris, which Is 
^(uitinued to Montargis, Orleans, Ac. 



[The rail to Bas'-suvSeine, Ac, passes Mal- 

Bons (6| miles), St. FarreB-leB-VaiideB (>f 

miles), &c., to 

Bar-BUr-Seine (8| miles), a sous-prefecture of 
3,287 population, in a fertile valley among 
vineyards on the Seine (crossed by a stono 
bridge), below the junction of the Ource and 
Laignes. It must have been a large place in 
Froissart's time (1369), when the English 
burnt " 900 bons hOtels " (houses). Like Bar- 
sur-Aube, Ac, its name (Bar) indicates that 
it was a provincial frontier town. It has a 
(^d Gothic cross-shaped ChutyA. On St. 
Germain's Hill is the rustic Chapel of Notre 
Dame du Chine, founded 1070, by Simon de 
Valois. JSTo^e?.— De I'Ecu. 

At 12 miles west-south-west of Bar-sur-Seine is 
Chaoitsce, near the head of the Amauce, 
which turns several mills. Amadis Jamyn, a 
poet of the 16th century, was a native. 

About 9i miles south, in the valley of the Laignes, 
are Les Ricets, viz.: — Ricey Haut, Ricey 
Haute-Rive, and Ricey Bas, three places 
founded, they say, by industrtous Swiss settlers, 
with good spire churches, and noted for wine. 
Population, 2,960. 

Still going up the river, the branch line passes 

Gy^-8Tir- Seine (6| miles), Mussy (6i 
miles), Ac, to Cli&tillon-BTir-Selne (9^ 

miles), on the Nuits branch of the Lyons line 
(Route 20), which comes from the south-west ; 
and is continued north-east from GiL&tlllon 

to Chaumont, vi& Brlon-sur-Ource {H 

miles), on a branch of the Seine, OOUTban 
(8| miles), VeUZaulleB (3J miles), near the 
Aube ; Gll&tean Villain (H miles), as below, 
and ^COn (5 miles), on the main line next 

to Ohaumont (7^ miles).] 

From Troyes, the next stations are 

BOUll]y-St.LOUp (6 miles), LU8igny(4i miles), 
in a forest, Hontl^ffamey (4( miles), on the 
barse. 

Vendeuyre iH miles), among hlUs and vine- 
yards, at the Barse's head, has an ancient Chdteau, 
which belonged to Henry of Luxembourg 1614, 
and a church, with this inscription to a woman 
(1699) ; " jt(i aime Men, tard oubliey The ground 



Koute 62.] 

1$ so strong that it tftkes eight or ten horses to the 
plough. In the charming valley of Yal-Suzenay is 
a pilgrim's Chnpel, where a fSte is held on the 8th 
of September. Population, 2,017. 
Jessains (6f miles). 

RaH by Brienne-le-Chftteau, from Bar-sur-Aube 
to Vitry-le-Francois. 
[Brienms-Napoleon m miles), once more called 
(as formerly) Btnenne-Ie-Chdteau, so called from 
the fine seat built by Louis, its last count, and 
was noted, till 1790, for the Military School, 
in the Minimes convent, to which the young 
Gorsican, Napoleon^ was sent as a king's pen- 
sioner, 1799-84, and to whom a bronze statue 
was erected 1859, in front of the Mairie. In 
1814 the allies were defeated here by Napoleon. 
He was nearly run through by the lance of a 
Cossack, who was shot dead at the Emperor's 
feet. The rail from St. Dizier to Troyes 
(page 246) now passes through this place.] 

Arsonyal-Jaucourt (3^ miles). 

Bar-sur-Aube (3 miles), a sous-prefecture of 
4,342 souls, in a fine spot among the vineyards of 
the Aube, belonged to the early kings of France, 
and was noted for its trading fairs. Besides 
remains of a eastle on Ch&telet hill, it has a 
hospital of the 12th century, a Chapel and Chwches 
of the 12ih century, and a stone Biidge^ over which 
Charles VII., in 1440, threw his rebellious subject, 
the Bastard of Bourbon, tied up in a sack. In 
1814, Marshal Mortier here defeated the Austrians, 
who, 8 little after, defeated Oudinot. Trade in 
white wine and eau-de-vie. 

Hot^a. — De la Poste; du Commerce; de la 
Pomrao d'Or. 

Six bridges over the Aube. 

ClalrvaUZ (8 miles), up the Aube, once famous 
for the Cistercian Abbey, founded 1105-14, by Hugh, 
Count of Troyes, and St. Bernard, now a central 
House of Correction for 2,000 prisoners from thirteen 
departments. Here was the capacious Tun of 
Clairvaux, which held 2,C00 hectolitres (each 22 
gallons) of wine ; with smaller casks, which held 
250 to 1,000 hectolitres. Straw hats and gloves 
are made. A little north-west, in the forest, is 
Arconville — a great heop of stones, or cairn, gradu- 
ally made by the contributions of passers by, on 
the spot where a Huguenot was killed in the wars 
of the League. 



ItAND-BOOK TO FBAKClie. 



S55 



Maranvllle (Sj miles), in depltriment Hanie- 
Mame. 

[To the north-east is Cirey Ch&teau^ where Voltaire 
lived with the Duchesse de Chfttelet. About 
7^ miles north-west of this stands Tremilly, the 
old moated seat of the Tr^mouilles, flanked by 
two pyramidal towers, Ac, and now belonging 
to the Broglie family.] 

Brlcon (6i miles), where the ChAtillon loop 
line comes in, vid Ch&tcau-Villain, as below. 

[Ch&teau-VUlaiU (5 miles), on the Ai:^on, be- 
longed to the Orleans family, and was one of 
the finest seats in Champagne, before the 
Revolution. Abc-en-Babbois (7^ miles south- 
son A-east), higher up the Anjon, was a forti- 
fiedtown in Burgundy, and latterly the property 
of Madame Adelaide d'Orl^ans.] 

At 7^ miles from Bricon is 

OHAUMONT, or Cliauniont-en-BaB8igny, 

162^ miles from Paris. Buffet, 

Here the lines from Blcsme and NeufchAteau 
come in, vid Boulogne (see pages 238 and 246). 

Hotels. — Grand Hotel de France ; de I'Ecu et 
du Commerce ; de la Poste. Population, 18,280. 

Chief town of department Haute-Mame, on a 
ridge of the Mame, where the Suize joins. It grew 
out of a Castle built by the Counts of Champagne, 
was fortified by Louis XII., and is known in modem 
times for the TV-ea/y signed here by the Allies, 
against Napoleon, 1814. Only a tower, 11th cen- 
tury, remains of the Castle. The Church of St. 
John the Baptist has a fine picture of the Behead- 
ing, and other good pictures. Among the buildhigs 
are the Hdtel de Ville, which has a bust of 
Henry IV.; the palais de Justice; the college, 
with a good portico to the chapel; library of 
40,000 volumes, and cabinet of natural history; 
hospital, theatre, fountains, made by Cordier de 
B^ziers, and a TriumpJuH Arch begun by Napoleon, 
but finished by Louis XVIII. 

Bouchardon, the sculptor, and Lomoine, the 
Jesuit, are natives. 

Manufacturcsof draggets, gloves of good quality, 
iron, and cutlery. 

The Falls of the Mame are ^ mile distant. 

From Ch mmont, up the Marne, the next stations 
are 

FOUlaln (7| miles), a very pictijresqnc part. 



T^ 



[Sec. 



"At^io*. > . i n l>tfir i <L. Ae^ i»i v^^ik <«c*:tl>^A irvaSMT 

M« A*A«^ MMi lAA 1I««J»« tAJM: tMM- flM. Jt » 

ti^ iKriObWfc Ijmfymxim. xsA vetats u jet t* c« M40. a^ 
TrimmyMii ArxM i.* to* we«t ir&.j>. t;a.i %AfJzz 24/t, 

CtiUvtrtU tA uw; l^a e«tirtarf ha* a lao'icrnk f r'lcut, 

w^Af^r/^tt* i* l^*-^ aft t** Itet*! <fc^ VL>; an-t a 
lfikM«i» ift M. f>:'^>;r'» '/Id cii&rtiiu It luu a 
Ciu^A wit^i l>a*ti.'A*, ^tt^i: tij l>mi» Fr»aiK*- A 
waia lbr«y«^fe tbe hiauKht Footaine prMOKaade 
bukdA t<» ib<^ FMktain« (fe la OreofAtllUt, aawcmjr 
lariy« tr««», Zrid^^t wa* a naftir«, a cntkr s too. 
Tb* «iiitl*rf iWMl* berfe U 'rf a »n|i*ri*>r kimL 

rtf^almtUm, WJlf . Hct^^tte VEm»pe; 4e la • 

p#M«, KaUto VeHl]l|rrEir6«a0aiMi AadJny , 

(fac« 29t). akk» t4» Gninccy, on a Hoa jominip la-  
mr-TMe and Cbat nu^nnir'^eine (page 2M). ! 

I»ri44r« «v«r lb« Marii«, Tanr-tl ot 1,«» yard*. ' 
0lg|lll^ll(.0|||lIJfl4r^^«i mile* j« where Aroacfc ' 
lifUt tttrna o<l t^ DiyM, and to Oray and : 
Aniumne, Tbefonnar. 61 miles Wnnr^PM^^Vanx- ! 
SWr-AflUillT *"'* Ift-rar-niU. The latter I 
pr'«e«ed« a« niMf er^ I 

pfAats (^ luiie*;' I 

Obaanpliit* (7i mll««;. m «ld fortified town, 
Fo|rtibtfcf<m« «,41«. The CbAtcMi la now the 
Malrie. Good wines are produced. 

Clniy (0 mUea), where the line Is eontiaaed to 
Aiutonn«, at in Bonte 21. 

Gray, up the Sodne, where it beeomes nariffable, 
if a aona-pr^ectnre of 6,908 persona (depart- 
nent Hante-Bate^), on & hill-side, and waa 
the farottHte seat of Philippe-le-Long's wife, 
Jeanne, where as many as ten reliirions houses 
were founded. It was fortified, 1430, and 
doffered greatly In the civil wars. The streeU 
are crooked and old-fashioned. Farts of the 
Cattle arc left ; ond It has also a good bridge, 
a suspension bridge, and qnais, to which 
steamers from D^on come ; Hdtel de Ville, 
built 1568; Church, oglral and renaissance 
it)rtes« with pictures. HoUk—Ht Paris. 




wSsk aa 4M caeiua aa 

ciArkal hya ^CLtr. wiifiBt H«sfT FT. wiifc a 
«t-Ti.- SiW*. f'VBrts. lie Da* 4t Maj^xcBe. with 

tke 



rri ffiil<e3 .. <m the Ljonsline.] 
oa the MAUI line. 



to Payl- 



/^ Bsiro; laaiaxcite c^i 

nuK^j. 

Heshe«rto. 

Frook Calmont- 
the next stauon is 

C^mOe*). 

(4|milcs). 
Bfllot, wbiich haa a good catlery tnde. 

la TeM-mur-hmnnrm Ci mne$). 

Yitrey (5 miles). 

[Branch rail of 11 milea to VoMMf (H vUea) 
and B0 Urt K« l l» 4a > -lt a t»l, the -Bourbon'* 
of Madame de S^Tigne s LtiUn (1676), in 
dq^artment HAate-Marae. in a pleasant spot, 
where the Apance and Borne meet, and noted 
for iu tuurm Baihs, called Paisard, Xatreille, 
La Fontaine, at a temperature <rf 126* to 13S*. 
They are oaef nl in caaes of rfaeumatism, pa- 
ralysis, scrofula, Ac, and are much frequented 
between June and October. Here are a mili- 
tary hospital, with 500 beds, and aa eatablisb- 
ment for ^▼iliana, containing 50 batha, besides 
assembly rooms, Ac. Both the batha and 
liTing are moderate. Among the walks that of 
liontmorency is the best. Popnlatioo, 4^148. 
JBMels— Grand Hotel desBains; duCommeroe.] 

JUOMJ (7 miles), on the SaOne. Here a line, 
60 miles in length, rune to Damienllef and 
Spinal (page 248). 

Honthnrenz-les-Baiilay (4} miles). 
Port-d'Atelier-Amance (4| miles); where 

the lines to Gray, Epinal, and Plombi^res go off. 
Currespondance to Combeanfontaine (8 miles). 

Portr-Snr-SaOllO (5f miles), on the Saone, has 
a trade in iron, cattle, Ac, and remains of a cattle^ 
on an island near the bridge. Fopulatien, 1,798. 



Route 62.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



257 



Correspondance to 8cey-iur-8a6ne^ where there 
was once a fine seat of the Beanf remont family. 

TalTTe (4^ miles). Here the Nancy and Epinal 
rail comes in, by means of which the B&tll8 Of 
Ploxnbi^es may be reached, vi& Alllevlllers, 
the junction station (page 349). 

At 34 miles further is 

VESOUL (Buffet), 

236i miles from Paris, 68i from Mnlhonse. 
Hotels — De TEurope; de la Madeleine; de 
TAigle Noil* (Black Eagle). Population, 9,770. 

This small capital of department Haute Saone 
(once part of Frandie ComU), in the ralley of the 
Darge<m, belonged to the Besan^on archbishops, 
and the Dukes of Burgundy, and, arter suffering in 
the wars of the 1 6th and 17th centuries, was Joined 
to France by the peace of Nimwegen, 1678. The 
old walls are gone, as well as its impregnable castle, 
which stood on La Motte, a peak of 1,830 feet high 
to the top, covered with yincyards, and com- 
manding a noble prospect. Statue of the Virgin 
on the top. 

The oldest building is the Church, built about 
1750, with a square tower, a good high-altar, and 
au ancient tomb. The prdf ecture was built 1822 ; 
in the Library are 23,000 volumes, with a Museum ; 
there are also a Palais de Justice, public baths, a 
salle de spectacle, cavalry barracks (built 1777), 
college, and monument to the Gardes-Mobiles, 
killed at the siege of Belfort. 

Rail to Dijon by Gray and Auxonne; to 
Bcsanfon; and to Nancy by Epinal. On the 
former line, 8 miles distant from Vesoul, is 
Vallerois-le Bois, whence there is correspond- 
ance to Villcrsexel. 

[ViLLERSEXEL (10 milcs), ou the Ognon, has the 
fine Chateau of Lafayette's nephew, the Marquis 
de Grammont — a family whose castle stood 
formerly on the Montagne de Qrammont (within 
view), with a Roman camp on it, and who 
founded a hospital here, 1769, as well as the 
ancient abbey of Vieux-Croissant.] 

Colombler (•'> mile near two old castles. 

Creveney-SaulZ (3} miles). Bridge over the 
Colombine, and tunnel to 

Oanevreuille iH miles). 
Lur6 (5} miles), a sous-prefecture, in depari- 
mcut Haute-Saonc (population, 4,883), on the wide 
B 



marshy plain of the Ognon. It Was once a strong 
place, and had an Al^ of the 7th century, parts 
of which, in the Grand Rue^ or High street (where 
many large houses are seen), are used for the 
iitairie, theatre, Ac. The college is a large build- 
ing, as is the Hdtel de Yille, built 1836. Frequent 
markets and fairs are held. Hotels. — De la Cigogne; 
Colntf. Rail via Luxeuil to Aillevillers (page 349). 
Roncliamp(6f miles), ontheRahin. Collieries. 
Champagney (3f miles), on the Kahln, a 
mining village of 4,164 souls. Corrcspondance to 
Plancher-les-Mlues and Plancher-Bas. 
[Hdricourt (lO miles south), a station (see page 
131), on the line from Besau9on to Belforl; 
population 4,720, chiefly Protestants, who use 
the nave of the Church, while the Catholics 
take the choir. It has several old houses, and 
the Castle of the Dukes of WUrtemberg, who 
obtained it, 1561, along with Montbeliard.] 
BaS ErettO (S miles, whence there is a short 
line, 5 miles, to Giromagny) is 4| miles from 

BELFORT, 

Or Biforty close to the new German frontier, 274f 
miles from Paris, 80| from Mulhouse. Here the 
rail from Dijon and Besan^on falls in (Route 31), 
as well as the old road, and five other high roads, 
making it a good place for trade. Buffet. 

Hotels. — De TAncienne Poste; du Tonneau 
d'Or. 

Belfort is a fortified town of 35,455 souls, in 
the territory of Belfort; a first-class fortress, 
in a healthy part of the Savoureuse, between the 
Vosges and Jura mountains. It has three gates 
and faubourgs, and is divided into Haute and 
Basse Yille. The church was built, 1738; there 
are a good Hotel de Ville, a college, and a library 
of 20,000 volumes; also a stone bridge, military 
hospital, and barracks. One street is Rue Thiers. 

On the rocks above is the Castle (or belfort), 
built 1228, and held by the Austrians till given up 
to France by the treaty of Munster, when it was 
fortified by Vauban, being the first on his system. 
Another rock to the north is crowned by the 
new fort of La Miotte. The Fort, commanding 
the entrance into Switzerland, was besieged by 
the Germans at the conclusion of the war of 1870-1 ; 
and here the Germans, by a rapid advance, defeated 
Bourbaki in his attempt to raise the siege, p"'' 



1 



r 



258 



BRADSIIAW'S ILLUSTRATED HAND-BOOK TO FRANCS. 



[Sec. 5. 



drore him and his leries orer the Siriss border. It 
was sriven up at the peace, bat retained by the 
French under treaty, and has been greatly 
strengthened. Its defender, Colonel Denfert- 
Rochereau, died 1878. A branch rail of 18 miles is 
open, via Montbeliard, to Delle (page 131). 

Trade in wine, eau-de-vie, excellent kirsch- 
wa^ser, cheese, iron, brass, and copper goods. 

The line is continued over the frontier to 

Ch^vrexnont (H miles). 

Petit Croix (3| miles), French douane. 

Montreux-Vieux, or Alt-MnxLSterol (li 

mile), the German douane, near the viaduct across 
the Rhine and Rhdne canal. 

Daxmemarle, or DammerkirCh (6 miles). 

Altklrch (6i miles), a place of 8,200 souls, on 
a hill-side by the III, with ruins of a Chateau built 
by the Counts of Ferettc, and made the scat of the 
Dukes of Austria, when Alsace belonged to them. 
'Jlnide In pottery, hemp, rftbons, wine, cattle, A«. 



J7o<eb.— Dc la Tete d'Or (Golden Head); da Lion 

d'Or. By road to Ferette and Basle (20| miles 

east), which is reached after passing a frontier 

dotiane at St. Lonis. Omnibus from Altkirch to 

Pfirt (La Ferette). 

[Fbkbttb, or Pfibt (14 miles south), or La 

Ferette, has the picturesque remains of its old 

easUe^ on a rock above it, near a branch of the 

III, not far from the Swiss border. It figures 

in Scott's **Anne of Geierstein;" and it has a 

well, they say, nearly 640 feet deep. — Lucelle, 

5i miles south-west of this, had a Cistercian 

abbey, burnt 1534; to which was attached the 

castle of Loswenbourg, a ruin on a hill. That 

of Blomont, burnt by the Baslese, 1449, is on 

another hill.] 

Cross the canal again to 

nifnrt (14| miles), from which it is 6f miles to 

Mnlhoase, for which see BreuUhato^s ffcmd" 

Book to Belgium and the RMne. Hence to Basle, Ac 



SECTION VI. 



ROUTES THROUGH THE SOUTH OF FRANCE AND THE 

PYRENEES. 

CHIEFLY FROM BORDEAUX, IN CONNECTION WITH THE OHEUIN DE FER DU MIDI, 

or Soutbem Railway; supplying bayonne, biarritz, dax, pau, cauterets, 

EAUX-BONNES, EAUX-CHAUDES, TARBES, BAGNfeRES-DE-BIGORRE, BAGNfeRES-DE- 
LUCHON, ST. SAUVEUR, BARfcGES, AGEN, AUCH, M0NTAUI3AN, TOULOUSE, FOIX, 
CARCASSONNE, NARBONNE, PERPIGNAN, BEZIERS, CETTE, Ac; IN THE OLD 
PROVINCES OF OUIENNE, OASCONT, LANQUEDOC, NAVARRE. BEARN, ROUB- 
8ILL0N, Ac. 



EOXJXE es- 

Bordeaux to La Teste, Arcachon, Dax, 
Bayonne, into Spain. 

By rail to Bayonne, 123 miles, iu five to seven 
hours. 

The Embarcadere at Paris is at Quai d' Austerlitz 
(Orleans line) ; at Bordeaux, Cours St. Jean. 

From the latter, the line passes within view of 
Haut Brion^ which annually produces about 120 tuns 
of one of the four first-growth clarets. It must not 
be bottled under six or seven years. Cross the Tesf^ 
road, by a Viaduct of 2,950 feet, on 91 arches, to 

Pessac (3| miles), near the Pope Clement Vine- 
yards ; so called after Clement V., whose property 
they were when he was archbishop of Bordeaux. 
By a bull, in 1809, he gave them to his successors 
in the primacy, with whom they remained till the 
Revolution. 

Gazinet (3^ miles), near traces of a Roman way, 
caUed the Levade. Here you are in the country 
(but not yet in the department) of Les Lancks, a 
wild and desolate tract of Gascony, almost like an 
African desert — all sand, heath, and marsh — 
stretching about 50 Icag^ies, and covering a mil- 
lion of acres between the Garonne and Adour. It 
is divided into Grandcs and Petites Landes, includ- 
ing the Landes of Mddoc. The surface is so per- 
fectly horizontal that the streams, such as they 
are, flow either way, or settle into shallow pesti- 
lential lakes. It is intensely hot in summer. 



Formerly nothing but pines grew; wild fowl, game, 
wolves, and foxes are found in some parts. The 
shepherds, dressed in sheepskins, go about on tall 
stiffs, or ^chasses; with which, assisted by a pole, 
they will sometimes travel three leagues an hour. 
Each man, besides carrying a gun at his back for 
defence against wolves, is also armed with a poele, 
or frying-pan, to serve for cooking. Successful 
attempts are being mnde to plant, drain, and 
improve this tract, under a law of 1857. Past 
Toquetoucan, a patois name for Tauche tout douce^ 
ment, or, Touch softly, because the marsh is danger- 
ously soft, to 

Pierroton (4 miles). 

Ml08 (3 miles), or Chemin de Mios, after which is 
OroiX d' Hins, which marked a boundary (finis) 
in old time. 

Marcheprlme (2| miles). 
Oanauley m miles). 

Facture (2| miles), near the Lcyre, which runs 
to the Bassin d'Arcachon, and which the Romans 
called Sigman (see page 183). 

Lamotlie (if mile), a buffet, 24$ miles from 
Bordeaux. Here the branch to Areaehon turns off. 

[The next stations for Areaehon, are 

Le TelCh (U mile). 

Gujan-Mestras (2| miles), near an Inlet of the 
name; and 

La Hume (li mile). Then 

La Teste-de-Bnch (if mile), on the Bassin 
d' Areaehon, a dull flat spot. Populatior 



V 



260 



BBADSHAW'S ILLUSTRATED 



[Sec. 6« 



This Is the Roman Tata Boiruni, where a capi- 
tal is of Aquitaine had a castle. Sandhills, 150 
to 200 feet high, line the coast. There is a 
vase with" an inscription in honour of M. Br€- 
montier, who first successfully stopped their 
progress in the last century ; in consequence 
of wliif'h, a little rice, tobacco, &c., have been 
grown at the ^tang, or Lake of Cazauz, in 
in the neighbourhood, to which a short rail is 
open. In 1834 a company was formed to unite 
the Bassin d' Arcachon with the other lakes by 
a navigable canal. 

Arcachon (if mile), 36| miles from Bordeaux. 

Hotels. — Grand Hotel, first-rate establish- 
ment; Hotel des Pins et Continental, Bvd. de 
la Plage; Qrand Hotel de France: Villa 
Peyronnet; Grand Hotel de la Fordt; Pension 
de Belie Vue, In the Pine Forest, kept by an 
English lady. 

Population, 7,910. English Consular Agent 
here; with Resident Medical Men; and English 
Church Service. 

A bathing-place, on the Baasin d' Arcachon, 
which is bordered by its houses, with a new 
town and a healthy pine forest behind. Here are 
two modem Churches; a pilgrimage Chapel; 
a Casino; and Bathing House. Visits may 
be paid by boat to the He des Oiseanx or 
De la Teste), and to Cap Ferret, the ancient 
Curianum Promontory, where there ia a Light- 
house, 167 feet high. Extensive oyster 
culture. The vine takes well in the sandy soil, 
which is 100 feet deep. Here King Alfonso, of 
Spain, was betrothed to the Archduchess 
Maria Christina, 1849.] 
Returning to the Bayonne line, the next station 
to Lamothe is 
CaudOS (7i miles). 

LugOB (7 miles), between the Leyre and the 
.Ji^tang, or lake of Oazaux, is near the Roman Saio- 
maeum, in a spot which shows some signs of culti- 
vation, and is theref<»« styled the *' paradise'* of 
the Landes. 

TchOOZ iSk miles), in department Les Landes, 
stands 190 feet above sea level. Population, 800. 
Short lines to PareXltiB, and to PlasOB. Pass near 
the Lake of Parentis, then over the Moulasse, 
iKhere the eotintry begins to Improve a little, to 



Lal>01llie3nre (8 miles), a manufacturing town. 
About 12| miles south-west is Mimizan, a port 
in the Gulf of Gascony, overwhelmed by the 
sands in the 16th century. Its abbey Church, now 
in ruins, stands in a circle of brick pyramids, sup- 
posed to be tombs. A Roman road went this way 
to Bordeaux. 

Solf^rino (5 miles) is the highest station on 
the line (280 feet), and some miles distant from the 
village of Sabres, which has a population of 2,480. 

Motcenz (7} miles), or Moreem (a Bufflel), at 
the Junction with the Mont de Marsan line^ which 
supplies Tarbes, Bagnferes-de-Bigorre, &c. (Route 
64.) 

Bion (8i miles). 

LalTKlne (7} miles) has a large church and a 
chapel of St. Vincent de Paul. Rail to Linxe, vid 
Castets. Rail to Tartas, page 261. 

[Castets, on the Palue, with a church, supposed 
to have been built by the English; and an 
intermitting iron spring.] 

Buj^OSe (4^ miles) has a pilgrimage chapel 
with an image of the Virgin, and is near Puop de 
Monsonet, where the excellent Vincent de Paul was 
bom, 1576, the son of a poor shepherd. Close 
to an old ruined chapel is an oak named after him ; 
and from a hill, the highest in the department, you 
may see Bordeaux. Further off, are the mineral 
springs of Pr^chacq and Gamarde. 

[St. Paul-les-Dax (7^ miles distant) a place of 
forges and furnaces, with a Gothic church, built 
1441, with marble carvings, inside and out, of 
Scripture subjects.] 

DAX (93 miles from Borddaux) ; 
otherwise D*Ax, or Acqs. 

Population, 10,240. 

Hotels. — ^Thermes de Dax; de la Paix; de 
France; deTEurope; du Figaro. 

Omnibuses to the town, whence the rail goes 9id 
Orthez to Pau for Eanx-Bonnes, Canterets, Bare- 
ges, Ac. (Route 66.) 

A sons-pr^fectttre, on the Adour, founded by the 
Romans, with the name of Aquoe Tarbdlicce, on 
account of its hot Mineral Waters, of which the 
chief spring, called Fontaine Chaude, in the middle 
of the town, falls into a large basin, in front of a 
kind of triumphal arch, attiong clouds of ste4m, 
the temperature being 140». The supply ife inott 



Houte 63.] 

abundant, especially in spring time. Jt is very 
clear; contains sulphates of soda and lime, find 
is used not only by the aick, for rheumatism, 
paralysis, and old wounds, but by the town's 
people, to wash and make their bread with. 

Another spring at Baignots, close by, has large 
bath rooms over it, and a temperature of 90° to 140*. 
Two bridges, one of wood and another on five stone 
arches, built 1857, lead over to Sablar faubourg, 
where the old church of St. Paul stands, which was 
a cathedral till the Revolution. The body having 
fallen in (1646), was rebuilt 1719, but the original 
Gothic fi-ont^ of the 13th century, offers several 
carvings of Scripture subjects, within and without. 
Another church, St. Vincent's, contains the effigy of 
the saint, and traces of an original basilica of the 
third century. The bishop's palace is now the 
Afairie, the diocese being united to that of Aire. 
Between the bridges are the walls and round 
towers of the old moated Castle of the 14th century. 
The totm Walls are of a genuine Roman character ; 
and a Roman way went hence to Toulouse. Dax 
was once an English town, but was taken by the 
Count of Foix, 1441. Duces, the conventionist, 
General Ducos, and Borda, the mathematician, 
were born here ; and here the jambons de Bayonne 
are cured. Pottery and liqueurs arc made. 

The Gothic Church qf St. PaulAes-Dax, in the 
neighbourhood, deserves notice for the curious and 
fantastic carvings upon it. At Tarcis (lOi miles) 
is another mineral Spa. Near Dax (5 miles by 
correspondance from Misson-Habas, page 2G6) is 
PouilLON (population, 3,200), which is equally 
noted for a warm mineral Spring. Indeed, one has 
only to dig a few yards into the soil, round Dax, 
to be certain of coming to warm springs, of more 
or less value for curative purposes. Here is the 
old feudal chateau of Lamothe. 

On the road to Mont de Marsan (rail from La- 
luque, page 260) is Tartas, on the Medouze, an 
old place, once fortified, and saved, in 1441, from 
the English, who were besieging it, by Charles 
VII. The chftteau was demolished by Louis 
XIII., because of its attachment to the reformed 
faith. It has a good trade in vinegar, saffron, 
wine, fruit, Bayonne horses, and resin. Popula- 
tion, 8,086. 



BAND-BOOK TO ITRANCB. 

Rlvi^re-Saas (H miles), a suspension bridge 
crosses the Adour. 

Saubusse (3J miles), on the Adour, has a popu- 
lation of 1,000, and mineral and mud baths, at a 
spot called Bains de Joannan, In which chlorides of 
sodium and lime prevail. The Pyrenees in view. 

St. GROUTS (Smiles), among forests of pine, is 
an entrepot for the Marensin, as the tract here 
bordering on the Gulf of Gascony (maris sinus) is 
called. 

St. Vincent-de-TyrOBSe (3f miles). Popu- 
lation, 1,562. 

Labeizme (7^ miles), near the unhealthy Etang 

At 4i miles distance is Gap-Breton. 
[Cap-Breton, once a good port, when the Adour 
ran by it to the Bay of Biscay, from which 
sand-hills now hide it. Some say it was 
founded by Brutus as Caput Bt'uti. Part of a 
Knight Templar House Is seen among the 
ruins. Population, 900. The enterprising 
sailors of this part of France discovered and 
gave name to the Island of Cape Breton, in 
1491, now part of the Canadian Dominion.] 
Through a pine forest, close to the sea, to 
Le Boucau m miles), a small port, near the 
embouchure of the Adour, wbich forms a harbour 
here. Population, 3,440. 
[ViEUX BocAULT, or BoucAU, among sand-hills . 
(some 200 feet high), on the Bay of Biscay, 
of importance as a port between 1360, wlicn 
the course of the Adour was turned Into it, 
and 1660, when it was made to take its old 
course. Its name Is derived from louche, a 
mouth. A lake here Is called Etang de Moison, 
after an old skipper, who was so unwilling to 
believe that the river had been turned another 
way, that he kept his vessel at anclior in the 
stream, till there was no water left to cai-ry 
him out to sea.] 
At 1 J mile beyond is Bayonne, with the Pyreneet 
in view. It is entered by a wooden bridge over the 
Adour, from the suburb of St. Esprit (population, 
7,000), which contains Vauban's Citadel upon the 
heights over the town. Until 1831 the Jews of 
Bayonne were obliged to retire to this quarter at 
sunset. Here they found refuge when driven oat 
of Spain by Ferdinand and Isabella. The 



261' 



TT 



2C2 



nnADsnAWs illustratbd 



[Sec. 6. 



has been rebuilt nnd enlar^^ed for Bull-Jightt, which 
were first celebrated here. September, 1852, but 
have since been discontinued. 

BATONNE, 

123} miles from Bordeaux, 487 miles from Paris, 
on the ed^^c of the Lnndcs District. 

POPULATIOX, 27,192. 

Hotels. — St.^tienne; du Commerce; St. Martin. 

Omnibuses from the station to the tomi. 

Pogiand Tdegraph Office^ Allies de Boufflcrs, near 
Place du Rddnit. 

High water, at full and chan^^e 3h. 80m., the tide 
rising 14 feet. 

ReMident English Cotuu\ of whom Pauports for 
Spain may be had. 

A sous-pr€fccture in department B isses-Pyr^n^es 
(part of Gascony), scat of a bishopric, fortress of 
the first class, on the Spanish frontier, and a thriv- 
ing Port, on the Adour, where the Nlre joins it, 
about three miles from the Bay of Biscay. It has 
a good harbour (as the name signifies in the Basque 
language, Baia and Una), at their junction, close to 
Pont Mayour, but the mouth is obstructed by a 
dangerous bar, near which the Duke of Wellington 
crossed the Adour, February, 1814, on a bridge of 
boats. 

The town was founded in the 10th or 11th cen- 
•tury ; and, having come to the English, was taken 
from them, 1451, being the last place they retained 
in France, except Calais. Its high ramparts are 
now turned into pleasant walks. It Is divided by 
the rivers into three parts, viz.. Grand and Petit 
Vnyonne, and thesuburbof St. Esprit, which stands 
on the right bank of the Adour, and contains the 
Citadel (as above mentioned), which commands the 
town and country around. There is a noble pros- 
pect hence over the town, the wide estuary of the 
Adour, and the forests at its mouth, the Nive, 
Biarritz, Ac, with the snowy peaks of the Pyrenees 
to the south. Underneath is the English Cemetery, 
where several officers of the Coldstreams are buried, 
who fell when Bayonne was invested, 1814. A 
stone bridge crosses the Adour to Faubourg St. 
Esprit ; and two bridges cross the Nive. 

The main street is good, but tlie rest are narrow : 
hoQsos of stone, three or foar storeys high. Place 
^miont is the best and the liveliest spot; 
beautiful walk along the AlUea Marines, a 



sort of jetty, one mile long, near the quays, with 
good prospects. The Bayonnaise women are con- 
sidered pretty. 

The small Cathedral (lately restored) is of the 1 3th 
to 16th centuries, and is 266 feet long, with Inr^e 
eJoi»ter», built by the English. Notice a new altar 
of 1854, the handsome pavement in the sanctuary, 
and the crofs of St. Francis de Sales. The diocese 
is as old as the 4th century. The new church of 
St. Andri is in the style of the I3th centurv. 

Observe also the h^M de ViUe, with a library 
and museum; Mairie, custom house, and theatre 
in one large building, surrounded by arcades; 
the Chdteau-Vieux, built in the 12lh century, by its 
last counts, with round towers of the 15th century, 
now a barrack; the Chdfeati-Neu/^ between the 
Adour and the Nive ; the arsenal armoury ; new 
military hospital, built 1841, on the site of a con- 
vent; St. Leon ho&pital, outside the town; the 
mint and naval dock, and navigation school. In 
Rue Lormaud, No. 8, is an inscription to a 
*■'■ bienfaiteur de Bayonne," who left property for 
repairing the cathedral. 

A large proportion of the population is Jewish, 
(especially at St. Esprit), that body being very 
wealthy, in consequence of the smuggling busi- 
ness with Spain, now, however, nearly stopped. 

General Harispe, Laffltte, the banker. Admiral 
Bruix. and Duverger de Hauranne, the friend of 
JanseniuB, were natives; besides Bastiat, the 
free-trader, to whom a statue was erected, 1878, at 
Mugron, where he died. The bayonftte, they say, 
was invented here ; and here at Chdteau de Marrac 
(burnt 18*25) Napoleon kidnapped Charles IV. of 
Spain, with his queen and his son, Ferdinand, 1808. 
Its frontier position has necessarily made it a place 
for many interviews between French and Spanish 
personages of historical importance. Excursion 
to the Barre de TAdoar by steamer. 

Manufactures — Eaux-de-vied Jlendaye, glass bot- 
tles (sand being plentiful), hams (cured at Orthcz, 
Dax, &c.), chocolate, and sugar. Trade with Spain. 
Conveyances.—SteAtn tram to Biarritz, running 
nearly down to the bench ; more convenient thim 
the rail. The line to Spain runs in this direction, 
past Biarritz, Irun, St. Sebastian, Tolosa, Bilboa, 
Ac, to Madrid, 390 miles. (See Bradthaw's Hand- 
Book to Spain.) Madrid time is nearly 20 minutes 
later than Paris. 



Route 64.] 



Maxd-book to rnAxcfi. 



2C3 



From Bayonnc by rail to 

Biarritz (6 miles). 

ffote!s.^Greind Hotel; Hotel d'AngUterre; the 
New Cnsino de Biarritz; Victoria. 

Hotel da Palais, first-class hotel. Very well 
situated in its own grounds, tvith a terrace on 
the border of the Sea. See Advt. 

Hotel d' Angleterrc, well situated, facing the sea. 
Mr. Champagne, Proprietor. Recommended. 

Hotel des Princes; handsome hotel. Pension 
daring the winter; Continental; de Bayonne et de 
roc^an. 

Villa des Quatro Saisons; Hotel de France; de 
Paris; deTEurope; do Londres. 

English Pension, well situated, overlooking the 
Public Tennis Ground. 

The British Agency, started by an Englishman 
for the letting of villas, Ac. 

Population, 9,177. English Viee-Consul. 

Englah Church Service; Presbyterian Service. 

Resident Physicians. 

Pharmacie Centrale. — Place de la Mairie. 

A winter and summer resort, and the favourite 
bathing-place of the late Emperor, in the comer of 
the Bay of Biscay, here lined with picturesque lime- 
stone cliffs, 50 to 120 feet high, hollowed into caves; 
such as the Chambre d' Amour, near the Phare, on 
Cape St. Martin. It is laid out with streets and 
squares, and has many new Tillas, and the usual 
conveniences of a frequented resort^ but no shady 
walks; with Fontaine Eugenie; casino; public park 
near Chabiagnc Lake; and an oyster culture. Here 
Bismarck met the Emperor, October, 1865, before 
the battle of Sodowa. The country people ride m 
caeolet, that is, in a pannier on one side of a horse, 
the other being filled (ly the driver. 

The Villa Eugenie (now a Museum) and St. 
Andrew's Church, are at C6te du Moulin, on a 
pretty bay, divided by the promontory of Atalaye 
(and Its old castle) from Petit Port and Vieux Port. 
Good bathing on fine soft sand. Qu^tary (5 miles) 
is a quiet bathing place, with good liotel, Ac, and 
English church service. Very pure air. 

St. Jea& de Lux (5 miles). J7o/«/<.— d'Angle- 
terre; do la Plage; de la Post. An old town of 
8,856 souls, at the month of the Nivelle, now grown 
into a bathing-place. Here Louis XIV.'s marriage 
with the Infanta Maria Theresa was celebrated, 
1660. It bu a casino; bathing ottabllihment; 



and an oldChAtcau. English Chwch Service. The 
line in its progress passes by Urrugue, near 
La Rhune (fine view), in the Lower Pyrenees 
mountains, and the Bidassoa, which divides France 
from Spain. The heights of the Nivelle, «fec., were 
defended by Soult against Wellington, who passed 
this way, Oct. 1818, into France. Following the 
road from St. Jean de Luz a bridge crosses tho 
Bidassoa, at Behobib, towards Irun, while the rail 
bends to the coast, vid 

Hendaye, 8 mlles (^Buffet), at the mouth of the 
river (the last French town and custom-house), 
with Fuentarrabia (truly Spanish) on the opposite 
side. Hotels— Tie France; Grand Hotel du Com- 
merce. 

Iran (Xk mile), and the line for Madrid. 

[From Bayonne a line is open to CamlK), with 
ferruginous and sulphureous mineral springs, simi- 
lar to Eaux-Bonnes, which Napoleon I. visited, 
1808; then to Oss^s, ftom which there is corres- 
pondance to St. Jean Pi6d-d6-Port, the old 
capital of Navarre; beyond which, in a gorge of 
the Pjrren^es, is Roncevaux, or Rpneesvalles (in 
Spain), where Roland and his brave peers were 
killed by the Saracens, 778.] 



Morcenx to Mont-de-Maraan, St. Sever, 
Tarbes, Ba|pa6res-de-BlgorTe, Pic-du- 
Mldl,ftc 

Distance to Bagn^res, about 72 miles. 

Morcenz Station, on the Bordeaux and Bay- 
onne rail (Route 68). Thence, passing ArJuzanX 
(8f mlles), on the Bez, to 

ArengOBse (H miles). 

TflTOB m miles). A factory here for esfence of 
turpentine, from the pine woods. 

St. Martln-d'Oney (5f mlles). a Viaduct of 
3,270 yards crosses the Midouze, and a long em- 
bankment brings us to Mont-de-Marsan, 8| miles. 

MOirr-DE-MARSAN. 

Hotels. — Des Ambassadeurs ; du Commerce; 
de France. 

English Church Service. 

Ortolans areeaten in August. Population, 12,081 . 

Chief town of department Landes (in the old 
province of Gascony), In a sandy hollow on the 
Douzc, where the Midou Joins it, thus forming the 
Midouze. After its first foundation by '' 



r 



2G4 



BRAPSHAW*S ILLUSTBATSD 



[Sec. 6. 



magne, on a 9li<,'ht eminence (from which it obtabied 
the name of Montague de Mars\ it was rained by 
the Xomians in the 11th century, and then rebuilt 
once more by the Connts de Marsan, 1140; wai 
taken by the Protestant leader, Montgomery, 1560, 
and united to the crown, with Henry IV/s other 
possessions. The rivers form a little port at Place 
de Commerce, and are crossed by five or six 
bridges. 

It is regularly built, and has many fountains 
and public baths, one is a cold /erruginoiu Spring. 
The chief edifices are the prefecture, palais de 
Justice, library of 6,000 volumes (many rare); 
house of detention, the barracks, and a p^piniere^ 
or nursery of plants, for the department, where 
there is a pleasant promenade. There is another 
on the site of Montneval Castle, which Louis XIII. 
ordered to be razed in the religious troubles. 
It was at Mont-de-Harsan that Francis I. first 
saw his mistress, Mdlle. d'Heilly, who became 
Duchesae d'Etampes; and here, 1527, he mar- 
ried Charles V.'s sister, Eleanor, in Ste. Claire's 
convent, which was afterwards burnt. The women 
are small, but pretty, and simply dressed. 

Trade in cloth, wine, eau-de-vie. 

Conveyances: Byrail or coach toDax,m4St.Sever, 
Grenade, Cazeres, Aire, Barcelonne (in depart* 
ment Gers), Biscle, Castclnau, Bivibro-Basse, 
Maubourguet, Vic-Bigorre, Tarbes, Bagn^res-de- 
Bigorre. 

The country to the »outh presents an inviting 
contrast to that of the Laudes, which still prevail 
on the north, west, and east. " Nothing is seen for 
miles but extensive marshy wastes without any 
sign of habitation, beyond hero and there a turf 
hovel to aflford shelter to the peasantry, who are 
employed to superintend the iiocka of sheep, and 
whose aspect is sufficiently indicative of the mal- 
arious influence of the locality. A man, woman, 
and child frequently go together, walking on their 
stilts, the woman being usually employed in knit- 
ting; and, seen from afar, the group presents 
rather a grotesque appearance." 

(fiail, 80 miles, from Mout-de-lCaraao, Hd »t. 
Avit, BOQlieldrt» with an old Castle, 
HoiUiUM, OasteUalOnz (population, 8,716), 

and flammin, to Kamiaiidt (page S74), 

on the line from Bordeaux to Toulouse.] 



Rail from Mont-de-MarsAn, 10| miles, to 

St. 86Ver, a sous-prefecture of 4,805 souls, in a 
pleasant hollow ; having an old ehureh, which 
was part of a Benedictine abbey, founded 993 ; 
also, remains of the Chdteau of the Dukes 
of Gascony. It was taken from the English, 
1 426 . There is a col umn to General Lamargrue, 
a native. Hotel. — Des Yoyageurs. At Peulvan, 
near the town, and at Peyrelongue (S kil. off), 
megalithic monuments are found. 

About 8| miles south of St. Sever, at Haffeimaik, 
is an old castle of the Kings of Navarre.] 

9*he first place on the Tarbes line is 

Orenade-snr-rAdonr (8| miles), a little 

Tillage on the Adour, where Marshal F^rignon 
was bom. 
Outoet-mir-rAdOIir (5f miles), foUowed by 
Aire (5f mOes), near the head of the Adour, 
where the roads to Auch and Agen turn off; an 
old decayed place of 4,551 population, and seat of a 
bishopric, having, on Mas-d'Aire hill, remains of 
the seat of the Visigoth king, Alarlc II., who here 
promulgated the Theodosian code. It suffered 
from the ravages of the Normans and the English ; 
and in the religious wars which followed at a later 
period. The Cathedral is old. Church of Mas- 
dAire has an ancient crypt. Grand Seminary, 
built 1858. The diocese of Dax is united to that 
of Aire. Hotel. — De la Poste. At 81 miles south 
is Pau (Route 65). 

The carriage road to Tarbes is by Mad Iran (17| 
miles) and Vic-en-Bigorrc (16 miles); or, following 
the rail up the Adour, to RlBCle (9i miles); 

Castelnan-Rlvik^-Basse (5^ miles), inHautes 

Pyrdn^cs; BHaubOUrguet (4^ miles) ; to 
yiO-BigOrre (5f miles), where the line from 

Agen comes in. It is a pretty village (population, 

8,643) on the Salat, in Hautes Pyrdn^es, with a 

ruined castle and walls. Then 
Andrest (4i miles), about 6^ miles from 

TARBE8, 

Hotels. — DelaPaix; du Commerce; de France. 
Noted for coquilles-anx-champignons. Buffet. 

Population, 25,087. Chief town of department 
Hautes Pyr^n^es, seat of a bishopric, Ac. It was 
formerly called Turta^ and was the capital of the 
Bigemmet^ who gave name to the surrounding dls* 
trict of Biiforre, which, as part of Guienne, WM 



Itonte 64.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



2^5 



^ 



held by the English till the time of Charles VII. 
It stands on the Adonr, in the midst of a rich and 
wide plain (1,000 feet above sea), watered by the 
numerous branches of that river and the Garonne, 
and crowded with villages and fragments of rock 
washed from the Pyrenees — ^with the Pic du Midi 
de Bigorre in view, on the south. The floods of 
1876, destroyed a bridge here, and swept away 
the small village of Verdun, except two houses. 
The roads to the watering-places and passes of 
the mountains strike out here, as from a centre ; 
and a convenient market is, therefore, held everj' 
other week, attended by the country people ; when 
com, potatoes, cheese, salt provisions, tools, cattle, 
sheep, goats, horses, mules, linens, and other neces- 
saries are sold. Here you may see the Bearnais, 
with his white blouse, and blue berret or cap; 
the women with their red capulets; the Spanish 
muleteer; and a variety of picturesque costumes. 

The town is regular and well-built. Streams 
of.water run through the streets, which are lined 
with bouses of brick and pebbles, or of native 
marble, roofed with slate. Each has its own garden. 

It includes five suburbs or faubourgs : a good six- 
arch stone bridge crosses the river, near Place 
Mareadieu^ where the markets are held. Place 
Maubourguct is at the centre of the town. There 
is a well-planted walk on the Prado. 

The Cathedral, called La Sbde, on the site of the 
ancient Castrum Bigorra, is only remarkable for a 
fine altar under columns of Italian breccia. St. 
John's has a square loopholed tower. The old 
palace of the bishops is used for the prefecture; 
and the ChAteau of its counts, in Place de Portelle, 
is used for a prison. 

Museum in Jardin Massey, statue of Larrey the 
surgeon, school of design, and baths. Hippodrome 
de Laloubi^re, 2 miles; close by Chftteau d'Odos, 
where died Queen Margaret of Navarre, 1549. 
Marshal de Castelnau, General Dembarr^re, the 
infamous Barrbre of the Convention, were natives. 

Paper, copper goods, cutlery, nails, carts, <fec., 
are made ; trade in white wines, spirits, leather, 
marble, oil, grain, hams, horses, and cattle. 

Rail to Pan and Bayonno (see Boutcs 63, 65). 
Pauls 41 miles west. Also to Auch,Agenf Bordeaux, 
Bagnbres-dc-Bigorre, Montr^jeau dor Bagneres- 
de-Luchon), St. Gaudcns, Toulouse (Route 66). 



Various Excursions may be made to Lourdcs. 
Argclbz, Val d'Aznn, Arrens, and Pouey-le-Houn 
chapels, St. Savin Church and its fine view over 
the Valle'e de Devantaygne, Luz, St. Sauvcur, 
Gavnniie fnll, Huns chnpcl, Bardges, the Pic du 
Midi, Ossun Castle, near a Roman camp. 

The rail runs up the Adour, past Bemac-Bebat 
(5{ miles), to 

Montj^aillard (3 miles), whence it is 5 miles to 

BAaNEBES-DE-BIOORRE. 

Hotels.— Grand Hotel Beau ScJjour, first-class, 
in a fine situation. 

De Paris; de Londres, well-situated ; Frascali; 
de la Providence; du Grand Solcil. CRf(?s: Godc- 
f^oy; des Voyageurs ; deT Union. 

English Church Service. 

A sous-pr€fecture of 8,638 population, the second 
town in the department, and the "Both" of 
France, being the best and most fashionable Watfr- 
ing-place in the countiy. It stands on the Adour 
(crossed by two bridges), at the entrance of the 
Val de Campan, in a fiat cultivated spot, 1,820 feet 
above the sea, between the gave (mountain torrent) 
and hill of Olivet; and is I'egularly built, with 
no remarkable edifices, though lodgings, hotels, 
cafes, and other accommodations are abundant 
and tolerably cheap. The Summer season lasts 
from May to October, when the population is 
doubled; there is also a Winter season. Lodgings 
cost from 2 to 8 francs a-day; sometimes much 
more. Handsome Theatre and Casino. 

Orchards, vineyards, bright green meadows (a 
rare' thing in France), and fields of buckwheat are 
seen in the neighbourhood, with woods of oak and 
beech on the hills, and something like the parks 
and gardens of England. The air is pure and de- 
lightful. The people ore tall and well made. 
Houses are built of limestone, while cool streams 
run all day long from the river, through the streets, 
which are paved with pebble mosaic. 

The Promenade des Coustous, a shady place in the 
centre of the town, is the chief rendezvous. Here 
arc the caf^s, theatre (over the chapel of St. Jean, 
belonging to the Knights of Malta), and the large 
parish church of St. Vincent, with a good porch 
and some carvings on wood. Other walks are the 
Allies Bourbon, and the Elys^es Cottin.and Azais, 
named after those authors. 



r 

266 



BaADSHAW*S ILLUSTRATED 



[Sec. 6. 



One nvcnue leads from the ffdtel des Thermes 
bathing-house (built of marble, hi 1823, and 207 feet 
long), to the Bains de Saluf, in a limestone ravine 
in Monn^ hill, behind which is Mont B^dat, with its 
grotto. The baths of Lapeyre, Grand Pr^, Carrbre- 
Lannoy, and Versailles, are to be found on this road. 
Those of Cazeaux, TMas, Ac, are under Olivet 
hill. Petlt-Prieur supplies the civil hospital, for 
the poor; the remainder take the names Bellevuo 
(from the prospect near it), Mora, Lasserre, Pinac, 
la Gntibre, and de Sant^— the last behag especially 
useful in the cure of old wound*. 

About ^/y Springs are counted, varying from 
90* to IBo" temperature, and supplying about 120 
marble baignoires. The water is usually taken in 
the morning. They contain iron, with salts of soda 
and magnesia, and are tasteless, clear, aperient, 
and tonic. The fontaines d^Angoulime and des 
Demoiselles Carrbre are chiefly iron. A sulphur 
spring, called Lasserre^ is 5 miles off, on the 
Loussonet. The price of a bath is 1 franc. To 
the Romans these waters were known as the Fictu 
Aquensis and Aqute Bigerronum; and they have 
kept up their reputation to the present day. 

The town was made oyer to the Black Prince by 
John of France. Here are English and Protestant 
temples; public library of 9,000 vols.; museum 
and cabinet of natural history; casino and music 
hall. Horses (at 5 francs a day), mules, donkey 
chaises, chaises K porteur (20 francs) for ladies and 
invalids, and other conveyances abound; guides 
6 francs a day. Bagnferes is the head-quarters 
of the 8oci4t4 Rumond for the exploration of the 
Pyrenees. 

Paper, warm woollen and knitted crSpes de 
Barkges are manufactured here. Here some well- 
known marble works (the veined Marhrede Campan) 
may also be visited. The "Archives 6 vangfliques" 
is published at Bagnbres. 

Rail to Tarbes, Barbges, St. Sauvcnr, Cautcrcts, 
Bagnbres-de-Luchon, Pau, Toulouse, Auch, St. 
Gaudens, Oloron, Agen. 

Excursions from Bagnkres. — ^Neor the town are 
the heights of Chipolou (above the fontatae d'An- 
gouldmc), the farms of Mentilo and M^taon, the 
promenade of Monto-Pouzac (where the races are 
held), and its Roman camp. Other points are 
^ de Campan and its grotto (2 miles), Gripp 



Cascades (7J miles), Vals de Tribons and de 
rEsponne, M^dous convent, Ordins^de, Barbges. 
Pic du Midi (10 miles), Pbne de Lh^ris, Col 
d'Aspin, <fec. 

Ascending the Adour, yon pass Aste and Bnu- 
d^an (where Lati'ey the surgeon was bom), beyond 
which the fine Val de Lesponne joins, leading up 
to Lac Bleu on Labas-Blanquo Mountain, past 
Lesponne. Further up the Adour is 

Campan (4 miles from B *gnbres), which gives 
name to a beautiful Valley^ one of the richest in the 
c'epartment for its verdure and scenery. Popula- 
tion, 4,171. It stands under the precipices of the 
Phie de Lheris, about 6,300 feet above sea. 

Further on is St. Marie (3 miles), where the south- 
east head of the Adour runs down past the marble 
quarries of Peyrehitc and Espinadet (5 miles), to 
Col d'Aspin, whence it is about 6 miles to Arreau, 
in Val d' Aure (see Route 67), and from which there 
is a carriage road to Bagnbres-de-Luchon. 

From St. Marie, up the south-west or moin head 
of the Adour, you come to the pretty Falls of 
Artignes (5 miles) ; thence the path leads (9 miles) 
over the Tourmalet Pass, 6.962 feet, to Borbges (in 
Route 65, below), leaving the Pic d'Espade, Ac, 
on the left, and the Pie du Midi de Bigorre, 9,440 
feet, on the right. On the top is an Observatory. 
Ascent on foot or on horseback ; preferably from 
Barbges. 1,700 feet below the top, on the Bag- 
nbres side, is a Hotellcrie; many stay to see the 
sun set and rise. 

DROTJXB ee. 

Bayonne (or Daz) to Orthez, Fan, Eaux- 
Bonnes, fte. Lourdes and Pierrefltte for 
Cauterets, Luz, St Sauveur, Bareges, ftc 

Distance, about 1C6 to 116 miles. From Bayonne, 
up the Valley of the Adour, to Urt (10^ miles) ; then 

Peinreliorade (S| miles), another pretty spot, In 
department Landes, where the Gave d' Oloron (gave^ 
a mountain torrent) joins that of Pau. It has 
an old Castle, flanked by great towers; and stone 
quarries. Population, 2,669. 

The next station is Labatut (63 miles), and 
PliydO (5| miles), a pretty spot in department 
Basses Pyrenees, on the Gave de Pau. Here the 
line from Bordeaux vid Dax joins, passing (after 

Dax) Mlmbaste (8 miles) and MlsBon-Habas. 

Correspondance to Poulllon (page 261). 



Route 65.] 

[From PuyOo a shorl Uno rnns w'a Sallys and 
Autevielle to St. Palais. 

Saub€i-de-Beaiiv (5^ niilcs), so called from a 
strong brine spring, used to cure the Bayonne 
hams. It has lately come into notice as a 
bathing resort. There are several hotels and 
villas, and an iron spring for-driuking. 

St. Palais (8} miles), on the Pidouze, was an 
important place in French Navarre, where 
Henri d'Albret resided. 

From Autevielle a line rnna through Sauveterre, 
Rivebant, Ac, to MauMon. 

Sauveterke (6i roller), on the Gave d'Oloron, is 
remarlcable for some antique ruins. A road 
leads from here (26 miles) along the valley to 
Oloron and (15 miles) to Bedous. ' 

Madleon (population, 1,14(>), on the Saison or 
Gave de Mauldon. divided into Basse and 
Haute Yille, with an ancient chdteau. 

Hotel. — Rospide ; good and recommendable. 

After Puyoo comes BalgtS (3| miles), followed 
by 

Orthez (5 miles), or Orthes, a well-built sous- 
prdfecture of 6,210 souls, in department Basses- 
Pyr^ndes, pleasantly seated, where six roads join, 
on a hill-side by the Gave de Pau, crossed by an 
old Gothic bridge, with a ruined tower on it. and 
a new bridge. It w^as taken from the Counts of 
Dax by Gaston II[., one of the Princes of Bdam, 
whose seat was at the decayed Chdteau de Moncade; 
where Blanche of Castile was poisoned by her 
sister, the wife of Gaston IV., and where Gaston, 
surnamed Phrebus, killed bis own son, and died. 
The castle Towsr commands a good view. 

It was n flourishing place, with a Protestant 
University, founded by Henri IV' s mother, till 
the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. 

On the hills above it, the Duke of Wellington 
beat the French, 27th February, 1814, after cross- 
ing the Pyrenees. Column to General Foy on the 
I>ax road. Bayonne hams cured here; there arc 
large saw-works, and a trade in goose feathers. 

Hotels.— La Belle Hotesse ; Sennfes. 

Correspon'daT^e from Orthez to 

Auou (J»4 miles north), a town of 1,080 popula- 
tion, on the Luy de Bdam. It has a good spire 
Church, with a Ch&teau by Mansart. 



t!AKr.-&O0lw TO PRAKCfi. 



26! 



Higher up the Gave and Val de Soule you come 

to Gotteln, and Tardets (6 miles), from which 

a road turns cff east to Oloron, and another 

west, to the paths o\er MontsSolumongagna 

and St. Sauvcur, to St. Jean. Further on, is 

Licq, In the Val de Soule, whence the Gave 

turns eastward towards Engrace, and Monts 

Lache and Argarry; while to the west It 

brings you to Larrau, where there is a pass 

over Mont Bethaudy on the Spanish frontier, 

to Ocagavia, under Mont Abaudy. St. Jeax- 

PiKD-DK-PoKT (8 miles), as In Route 63.] 

Argagnon (H miles), and Lacq (3| miles), to 

ArtlZ (3 miles), on the Gave de Pau, near a 

large paper factory at Maslacq. 

Lescax (8 miles), the ancient Beeharnum, rebuilt 
by Guillaume, Due de Gascoigne, and ravaged by 
the Calvinists In 15C9. Here are an old Roman- 
esque Cathedral, containing tombs of the Beam 
princes: VEsquireite cli&teavi; and a normal school 
at the old Barnablte college. Population, 1,645. 

At 3 miles from Lescar Is 

PAU. 

Hotels. — Grand Hotel Gassion ; Hotel de 
France, first-class hotel. 

Grand Hotel Beau S^jour, first-class hotel, 
splendidly situated. 

Grand Hotel and Continental, first-class family 
hotel. 

Hotel de la Poste, situated In Place Grammont; 
de I'Europe 

Pension Etchebest, Passage Plants, 2, Boarding- 
house, in a central but quiet quarter. 

Maison Sarda, 31, Rue Porte Neuve. 

Malson Colbert, Rue Montpensier, first-class 
Pension and Boarding house. Pension Hattersley. 
English Pension, Villa Mlrador. 

Funrshcd Apartments, from £20 to £600 for the 
season, 1st October to 31st May. 

Restaurants. — Bernls ; Du Commerce. 
Post and Telegrapti Office, Rue des Art*. 
Resident English Vice-Consul. 

English Service, at three Churches ; also, Scotch 
and French Services, 
Resident English and French Physicians. 



268 



BKADSHAVs II.LU9TBATCD 



[Sec. 6. 



For Banken, TradeMtnen^ Jbc, see Bra<Uiaw's 
Continental Guide. 



'Objects of Notice.— Henry IV.'s Statae — 
Prefecture — ^The Pare— Chateau— Hotel Gassion — 
Bemadntte's House. 

Population (1891), 93,111. 

Chief town of department Basses Pyrenees, seat 
of a cour nationale, university, &c., and a fayourite 
winter resort on account of its soft and beautiful 
climate, and its delightful situation within view 
of the Pyrenees, which are about 30 miles off. 

Calmness, according to Sir J. Clark and other 
authorities, is a striking character of the climate of 
Pau. Wcsteriy winds are most prevalent ; north- 
eiiy are feeble and infrequent. *^ A sense of fulness 
is the first effect produced upon healthy strangers, 
and to congestive patients, therefore, the <dimate 
is injorious " (Dr. Taylor) ; but it is beneficial in 
cases of chronic indigestion, weak throats, and 
asthma. Abundant attractions, in the shape of 
cinbs, balls, hunting, races, cricket, skating, Ac. 
are provided for English visitors. 

It stands in a rich plain, above the Oare (or 
torrent) de Pau (which rises at the celebrated fall 
of Gavamie), on a height, at the top of which is its 
old Castle, memorable for the birtli of Henry IV., 
or Henri Quatre^ the darling hero of the French 
people. The town began in a Chateau of the 10th 
century, built by its vicomtes, who marked the 
bounds by stakes, or paous (in B^amais), whence 
the name is derived, ^bout ITi&i, Gaston de Foix 
made it the capital of B^am. and rebuilt the castle ;  
and a parliament and university were afterwards 
granted to it. 

The little brooks of Onsse, Ac, traverse the 
town, which is cut m two by a ravine, crossed 
by a bridge from the Place de la Comedie, the 
lai^st square, in which the Theatre .stands. 
From Basse ynie^ or Lower Town, a seven-arch 
bridge spans the river, towards the hills of Juran- 
9on, which are noted for white wine. The main 
street, about one mile long, is crossed by several 
short ones. The houses are of pebbles and cement. 

Place Grammont is surrounded by porticoes - 
Place Royale, near the castle and St. Louis's 
church, is planted with trees, and has Raggi's 



marble Statue of Henry IV.^ which replaces one of 
Louis the XIY., overturned at the Revolution. 
When Uie people during that king's time r.skcd 
leave to erect a monument to their favourite, all 
they could get was permission to build one to the 
reigning sovereign. As a consolation they cnt 
this inscription upon it, in the Bcnmais tongue, 
"^ eiou quey Tarrahil de noutte Grand Enricx" 
(To him who is the grandson of our Great Henry). 
The Prifecture is well built, and contains the 
archives, and the Letter* of Hennf I\\ many of 
which have been published by M. Berger de Xi vrey. 
At the College, founded as a convent by Henry, 
is a collection of minerals from the Pyrenees. 
There is a public library of 15,000 volumes; a 
nonnai school, and school of design ; also a govern- 
ment stud and baths. A public Fountain stands 
near the Musee and market hall. 

At a House, in Rue de Tnin, Bemadotte, King 
of Sweden, was lK>m, 1764, the sou of a lawyer. 
The Hdtel Gassion commemorates another soldier. 
Marshal Gassion, who fought under Gustavus 
Adolphus. and at Rocroi. He never deypaired: 
**I have that in my head, and at my side," said he, 
"which makes me sure of victory." One more 
native, the Vicotiiie d'Orthes, deserves to be remem- 
bered. Wlien governor of Bayonne, at the time <>f 
the St. Bartholomew massacre, he thus answered 
an order from Charles IX.: "I have communicated 
your Majesty's letter to the garrison and towns- 
people. They are brave soldiers and loyal subjects, 
but I cannot find among them a single executioner.'* 

A drawbridge leads by the Gothic Chateau^ piled 
on the rock, to the Basse-Plante walk in its gardens, 
on to a beantiiul shady terrace high over the river, 
called The Parc^ where stood Castcl-Beziat tower, 
and whence there is a noble prospect of the fine 
Yal d'Ossau, the Pic du Midi, i'ic d'Aspe, Ac. 
in the snowy range of the Pyrenees. "This Pare 
has been compared to the Eng at Berne. I think 
it decidedly superior. It is true that there are no 
mountain masses equal to tliosc of the Oberland ; 
but the extent of the chain open to your view is 
far wider, the principal objects are nearer the 
eye, and above all, the foreground and middle 
distance are far superior at Pan. It is the most 
splendid and enjoyable town wait that I know-; 
and others of a yet wider experience than mine 



Ronte 65.] 



HJLND-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



269 



have pronoanced it unequalled in Europe."— 
(Tbollopb's Impressioni). 

The old Chateau includes four towers, with low 
peaked tops, and a square bricic Donjon, 115 feet 
high, in which Abd-el-Kader was confined as a 
prisoner (1848) till removed to Amboise; abroad 
staircase, carved with arabesques; an elegant 
chapel, restored by Louis Philippe (who beautified 
the whole structure with chefs-d'oeuvre of tapestry 
and carving's) ; the presence chamber; the apart- 
ments of Marguerite of Navarre, or Marguerite the 
Pearl, sister of Francis I., and Henri's grand- 
mother; and those of Henri's mother, Jeanne 
d'Albret (who was bom here), with his own bed- 
chamber, and the room in which he was born, 1568, 
containing his tortoise-shell cradle, and the carved 
bedstead of La Belle Gabrielle. The last fine room 
was occupied by the Emir's harem, who used to 
roast their mutton in the middle of its oak floor. 
Queen Isabella of Spain was sometime a resident. 

When his mother's time drew near, Henri's 
grandfather told her to sing* that she might not 
give birth to a puling and crabbed infant. As 
soon as he was born, the old king showed him to 
tlie people, crying out ''■Ma brebis a en/ant^ un lion .'" 
then, after rubbing his mouth with garlic, he made 
him drink a few drops of Juran9on wine, to ensure 
a hardy and robust constitution. That Henri pos- 
ceased an excellent one is well known ; the wonder 
is that he survived such vigorous treatment. He 
was afterwards nursed by a peasant at Bilh^re, 
to the north-west. 

The west part of this Department Includes the 
Pays Basque, and Am, or Low, NavaiTe, a small 
part of a kingdom, which once included Navarra, 
Biscaya, Ac, in north Spain, the country of the 
Yascones, or Gascons, who gave their name to 
Gascony and the Boy of Biscay. What was left of 



• She svog. they uif, an anthem to the Virgin, in the 
B^amAis, heginning— 

Nooftte Dame dett cap detl poQn, 
Adynftat-me k d'aquwt' here ; 
Pngata au Dlott df a ceil 
Qu'em botllle bi6 d61io(lra led 
D'a maynat qn'em haasie loft di.tlo. 

Whleh In French rnna— 

Notre Dame da Bont-do-Pont, a^ourez-moi k cette heme ; 
priez le Dieu dn ciel qu'll veuiUe blen me ddlirrer prompte- 
ment; an'il me faeee le don d'na gar^on. (Ask God to 
deliver me soon, and give me a boy>. 



it in France, after the seizure of the Spanish por- 
tion by Ferdinand, the Catholic, came to UeniH^ 
who was King of Navarre, before he succeeded, as 
Henri IV., to the crown of France. Both the 
B^amais and Basque people wear the beret, or 
round Scotch cap; but the latter dress in gayer 
colours, and are further distinguished by a language 
of their own, differing from any other in Europe. 
It is full of long expressive compounds, and its 
purity is cited as a proof of the independence 
which the Basques have maintained for 8,000 years, 
in spite of the changes around them. They are a 
proud and boastful race, fond of their own customs, 
but hospitable, and so lively and active, that ^^leger 
eomme un Basque " is a proverb. The late General 
Harispe was a Biscayan. 

Coloured handkerchiefs, Bdam linens, carpets, 
and woollens are made; and there is a trade in 
wine, Bayonno hams, salted goose legs, poultry, 
chestnuts. 

Rail or coach to Tarbes, Toulouse, Bayonne, and 
Spain, Oloron, St. Sauveur, Bareges, Bagnbrcs-de- 
Bigorre (see Route C4), Eaux-Bonncs, Eaux-Chau- 
des, <fec. At Morlaes (6 miles north-east), on the 
Luy-de-Prance, was a Chfltcau and mint of the 
Vlcomtes of B^am, called Forquie^ on a hill of that 
name. 

Pan to Oloron, lamns, Eanz-Bonnes, and 
Eanx-Chandes. 

The fii-st place, 

Gan (5 miles), like Juran<;on and Gelos, which the 
road passes, is noted for its wine, and is in the 
beautiful valley of the N^ez river, which falls over 
several little cascades. 

Bnzy, where the line turns off, via Ogeu and 
Escou, to 

Oloron, or Oloron Ste. Marie, on a hill by 
the Gave d'Oloron, which is made by the 
union of the Gaves d'Aspe and d'Ossau. It 
was known to the Romans as 7?«ro, which, 
being ruined by the Saracens (732) and Nor- 
mans, was rebuilt by the Vlcomtes of B^arn. 
Population, 8,758, inclusive of Ste. MaiHe, with 
a Cathedral at the other end of the high 
bridge over the Gave. There are two mineral 
springs near it. 



T 



970 



BRADSUAW 8 ILLU8TKATSD 



[Sec. 6. 



Trade in wool, Bftvonne hams, salt provisions, 
and horses ; and timber for the navy. 

Guides: Jday,6fr. ; lday,9tol0fr. Theyare 
tried men, and have to piss an examination. 

Hotdu — De la Postc; des Voyagcors. 

Up the Vol tTAspe^ by a bold road first cut by 
the Romans, you pass by Asasp (6 miles), Escot, 
under the P^ne d' Escot and Sarrance, to Bedous 
(8 miles), on a pleasant part of the Gave ; then 
to Aeeout (population, 1,103), the Roman Atpa- 
Luea^ near the lukewarm mineral spring of 
Snperiach^, and Mont Argarry (to the west). 
To the east a foot-path strikes over the moun- 
tains to Eaux-Bonnes. 

Following the de61e up the Gave you come to 
Ardos (10| miles), under Montagnes Rouges; 
whence a mule path loads by Paillette (7 miles), 
under Mont d' Aspe, over the frontier, by a pass, 
6,718 feet above the sea, to Canfranc (17 miles) 
and Jaca, in Spain. A proposed line from 
Oloron to Jaca, vid Canfranc, with a tunnel 
of 2| miles, was approved in 1881 by both 
Governments. 

From Buzy the line is continued through 

Arudy, Iseste, and Bielle, to 

LaruiUhEauX-BOimes (12i miles), in the 
middle of a deep valley, a depot for navy timber, 
brought from the forests of the Gabas mountains. 
Omnibus, 2| miles, to 

EAUX-BONNES, or Aigdk»-Bonnb8, 

Hotels. — Grand Hotel des Princes; de France; 
Richelieu; Paix; des Pyrenees; de T Europe ; de 
la Poste. 

Lodgings in great plenty. 

English Church Service, in the season. 

A small but noted watering-place, at the end of 
the Gave-de- Valentin, and of a deep pass, under 
the Pic-de-Gers, in a healthy spot, among forests, 
pretty cascades, and good walks, on the marble cliffs 
round it. Here are an Etablissement Thermal; 
and Protestant and Catholic Chapels. About 400 
persons (many of them soldiers) between May and 
October, use the sulphur Springs^ which are called 
La Vleille, or Buvette (93* teutpcrature), La Ncuvc, 
Ortech, and la Froide (59°), and are excellent for 



old wounds, fevers, skin diseases, and early con- 
sumption. To Argcl^s, vid Arr«ns (page 271), by 
a fine but little used zigzag road, 27 miles long, 
or, over the Cols de Tortcs and de Sauc^de, 19 
miles. There are many fine excursions from Eaux- 
Connes, and the Pic de Gers is ascended from here. 

Omnibuses constantly from Eaux-Bonnes to 
EAUX-CHAUDES, or AionES-CnAUDES. 

Hotels. — Baudot; de France; Bandas; d'Angle- 
terre; des Princes; Richelieu. 

Up the wild gorge of Val cTOssau, watered by the 
Gave of the same name, is this Sulphur Spa, less 
fashionable than the other, with a larg^ bath-house, 
fed by the Esqulrette, the Rey, Clot, Arresec, and 
other hot springs, up to 97* temperature. Above 
the Arresec or Arresecq, is an inscription to '^ Dame 
Cathin," or Catherine, sister of Henry IV. That 
of Mainville is cold, and taken in draughts. 

Season, June to September. There are govern- 
ment medical inspectors. Chronic rheumatism and 
diarrhosa, culic, vcrligo, paralvHis, and derange- 
ments of the viscera are successfully met by a 
course of these waters. 

Proceeding up the Patf, which is broken and 
well wooded, you come to the Punt d'Enfer (Hell 
Bridge); then to Oabas custom-house (6 miles), 
whence a mule path over the frontier leads to the 
famous Baths of Panticosa, in Spam, which are 
wonderfully beneficial in consumption. 

About 2| miles from Eaux-Chaudes is a wonder- 
ful Grotto, where the stream loses itself for some 
distance. A path by the Gave de Bious conducts 
from Gabas (1| hour) to the Plateau of Bious- 
Artigues, from which there is a majestic view of 
the cloven headed Ficdu-Midi-cCOssau, 9,465 feet 
The ascent is very laborious, and the panorama is 
not equal to that from the Pic de Gers (above), 
the ascent of which is easy. 

The rail from Pan to Tarbes proceeds up the 
Gave de Pau to Assat (5} miles), and 

Coarraze-Nay (5| miles), a station for two 
places near it. Nay, in a fertile spot, covered with 
vineyards, is an industrious place of 8,l»36 souls, 
with woollen manufactures, established since 1.^42. 
CCMtrraze (2 miles higher up) has the tower of au 
old Chateau, where Uenrjf IV. was brought up. 



Route 65.] 

Montaut-B^tharram (H miles), near the 
chapel of Notre Dame Bethan'am, in a fine valley 
at the bridge on the Gave, to which pilgrimages 
are made between the 15th Aug^nst and 8th Sep- 
tember. A priests' seminar}* stands near it, and 
the nine steUions on the hills above command fine 
prospects. Lestelle Grotto is a little further. 

St. P6 (8 miles), where they make nails and box- 
wood combs. Population, 2, 43^. The next place is 

Lourdes (6i miles), on the Tarbes and Caa- 
terets road, close to the Gave (i.e., torrent) de Pau, 
where four roads or valleys meet, 1,310 feet above 
the sea; the old capital of Lavedan-en-Bigorre, 
and once called Miraubel^ on account of its pic- 
turesque appearance. The old Castle, on a high 
rock, which the Black Prince held against the Due 
d'Anjou, 1373, has been for ages a state prison ; it 
consists of a great square Tou?€r, a chapel, and 
small barrack. Population, 6,976, who weave 
coloured kerchiefs, and work the slate mmes here. 
Grottoes are numerous in the rocks; over one of 
which is a new Pilgrim Church to the Virgin Mary, 
said to have appeared here, 1858. Roman coins 
have been found. Thousands of pilgrims annually. 
//(><c/«.— Belle Vue; dcs Pyr^n(Jes ; <fcc. 

[From here the main line goes on to Ad^ ; then 
Ossun (7i miles), giving name to a distin- 
guished family, who built an old Chateau here; 
near which, on another point, is a large Roman 
camp, fortified, they say, by Crassus. On a 
plain, called Lanne AfauHne, a bloody battle 
was fought with the Saracens in the 8th cen- 
tury. Population, 2,837. 

Then Juillaa (3 miles) to Tarbes (3f miles), 
thence to Toulon se, as in Route 66, reversed.] 

From Lourdes a branch strikes up the Gave 
de Pau to Pierrefitte for Cantcrets, Bareges, St. 
Sauvcur, and Luz. 

It passes Lugagnan (3f miles), near Vidalgos 
castle, commanding the road. Then BOo-Bilhen 
(6f miles), to 

Argel^S-Oarost (2 miles), where the Gave 
d'Azun joins; 1,630 feet above the sea, and made 
up of groups of houses (population, 1,783), spread 
oyvv a beautiful and rich valley of Lavedan, 
wLicii extends to Pierrefitte. Mont Balandrau 
commands a good view over it Ho'el—Vc France. 



HAND-BOOK TO FRANCE. 



[ARREN8(7i miles south-west), up the Auzun, near 
the junction of the Gave de Bun, is one of the 
highest villages (population, 1,2C0) in the Pyre- 
nees; it stands under the Col de Saucbdc, 
which leads over to Eaux-Bonnes and Laruns, 
and is flanked by the Pic du Midi d'Arrens 
(7,440 feet), Balaltous (10,320 feet), and Pic 
de Gabisos (8,800 feet). An old disused 
Chapel, above Arrens, called Poey-la-ffoun 
(» c, the hill of the fountain), which is built 
over a spring, affords a very fine view. Trout 
fishing.] 
After passing the Gothic chapel of St. Savin's 
Abbey the train reaches 

Pierrefitte- Nestalas (6f miles), where the 
rail ends. Here the Gave de Pau is divided from 
that of Cauterets by the Pic de Soulom, a spur of 
the Pic de Viscos, 7,030 feet high. Omnibuses 
meet the trains for 

CAUTERETS, 
Or Cauterex (6 miles south-south-east), up a deep, 
narrow defile, 600 feet deep, between mountains 
8,000 or 9,000 feet high, important on account of its 
sulphur Springs, but a desolate place in the long 
winter, as it stands 3,250 feet above the sea. The 
season for invalids is from June to September. 
Lodgings, board, and the bath may cost 10 to 12 
francs a day. It has twenty-four Springs, dispersed 
in different directions above the town, under such 
names as Bruzaud, Pauze, Les (Eufs (the hottest, 
132"), C^sar, La Raillibre (the largest), under a 
granite rock, Petit St. Sauveur (only 86*), du Prd, 
Mauhourat (near that fall), du Bois, &c. They are 
useful in most chronic complaints, the early stage 
of consmnption, rheumatism, asthma, indigestion 
diseases of the skiu and nerves. La Railliere (103*j, 
} of a mile distant, and 410 feet above the village, is 
reached by an ingenious combination of hydraulic 
lifts, in six towers with rails between ; a plan in- 
vented by M. Edouz. 

Hotels.— D'Angleterre; Continental; do Paris; 
de France ; des Ambassadeurs ; des Bains. Caf ds : 
DcLondres; du Pare Population, under 2,000. 

A delightful excursion may be made on foot or 
horseback up the Val de Jcret, along the Gave de 
Marcadou, to the Cascade de Ce'risey, thence to 
the Pont d'Espagne, a bridge crossing the torrent. 



271 ^ 



r 



572 



BMXDSBAW^i II^LrffTKAXED 



^SCC* D« 



f •*£» 'yftiy. '/rer * mlft |**» urt* Jsfialn. 7b* path 

t/^r itf^ l^K *U OwtU, a lorrely Abort -wT wjuei; *-*« 

|^rtf,<^b Pyr-tw^*- the r<^»«»tf^'*, 1*>2» fe«t- A 
n*:wif tM^rrifrd rjntk^. taautA. ViMwm^ wt:m 
AnmntA \i*t*., 1«2. Krf rwLBxmts and «I«o a b«A 
tuMj be kuul at tb« Cabane, 

Frrim Pf«iT«rfitt« OKutlfftut* run up the narrovr 
d-'ftl/r «>f tfcwr ««▼« dfc Pan. p«t VUeoc, Cbeze, 
afi4 0«»M, and crrer four or fire bridges (one 

call'r'l Pwt 'Jfc V¥M(trrfr to 

Lcz (^ raU««;. in • trian^Ur fertile YaUcj, nir- 
r«mnd«d 1^ bijrb nooDtaioa, at thejunetioB of the 
Oar«» de Pan and de Ba*taoe ; an old town, with a 
foniAed ebureb of tbe T«Dplarr, and ruins of the 
C bM'rau »t«, Marie, taken f rrnn tbe Ent^iah m 1401 
Liiftit w<^/Uen«, called Bartges, arc made. Fedea- 
trUn* and horMrmfen may i^o to or from Caotereta 
by tbe Col de Biou, wblcb paases under tbe south 
•I'ie of the Pk de VIscos, HoteU.—Dts Pyroieea; 
derL'nlvers. 
En{/liMh Churth Hervict^ bi the tesuon. 
From Luz np tbe ralley of the Bastan, hy a good 
but ftteep road, pa*t Betpouey, to 

BAREGES '4i miles). 

HoT«M.— I>e France; de TEnrope. 

Ca/^M.-lMhorde ; Richelieu ; da Midi. 

A deft^>lflte spot in the heart of the mountains, hnt 
noted for its yalnable tvlj^ur $prtn^$, which were 
broutfht into notice by Madame de Maintenon, 1676, 
and made a'Tcennible by the road from Pierrefitte, 
1/44. It sunds about 4,043 feet above the sea, 
and consists of a street of about 80 houses, which 
are mostly dc«crted in the long and rij^orous winter, 
when it is hidden under 15 or 20 feet of snow 

The water* are taken between May and Septem- 
ber There ore twelve sprinar«, ailed Grand- 
Donche (the hottest, 112«), I'Entr^e le Fond, 
Polard Dasiein, Buvette, Potitc-Donchc, Bains- 
Nenf, and la Chapelle (the mildest), which feed 
twenty-one bai|?noIrcs. They arc aperient, diuretic, 
niid cmeiitlally stimulant, and though greasy, and 
<llN{fU<tting to look at, they work surprising cures in 
casf s of rheumatism, stiffened tendons, old ulcers, 
Hiul gun-shot wounds. 



A pyvcnoBCBt ifapjtel f or 5M mvaiids ia 
liAtdhtre. lodging €em» I U>3iT. » ^ji 
hnth, 1 fr.; b«aril3 fr.; altog rfhw . lirias. 
maj be 9 tM> 10 fr. la tiK anani as nany as l^StO 
scrangcrc coQect here. It is a pood eeaire f«r 
moiuHam t^nMm^ on Pies d' Ayie. de lAemm, and 
de SeoBTieile; and the best aaccM of the Pie dm 
Midi de Bi^rre is fiom heio. 
Omnibus daily to Kerrefitte. 

Fran Lux, as abore described, peusm^ a j 
ing q>rin^ and the Foot de YHIelonsaa* job i 
(I mile^, by omnibus or on foot, to 

ST. SAL' TKU R-lfS-BADTS, 

A picturesque watering-place. In a Swiss-like spot, 
near woods and falls, 2,500 feet above the sea. The 
houses stand on a led^ above the ravine, 300 feet 
from the river, and include hotels, a grand Cerde 
or assembly rooms, a round chnrch, and a pillar 
to the Duchesse d'Angouldme. There are thir- 
teen Baths in five groups at the Bathing Hon$€^ 
called la Chapelle (only 86*), Terrasse, B^z^gna, 
Chateguercy, and Milieu (the two last are the hot- 
test, 94*). Snakes sometimes get into them, but 
they are harmless. As these waters are milder 
than those of Bareges, and the situation is infinitely 
more agreeable, they are much used by ladies for 
I spasmodic, nervous, and other complaints. Botds-^ 
"De France; dn Pare. Furnished lodgings may 
be had. Fine views at the Hontalade establish- 
( ment. The fine Pont Napoleon crosses the ravine 
• to the road from Luz to Gavamle. The Pic de 

r 

I Bergons, 6,790 feet high, and the Pic de Tiscoa 
7,030 feet, are easily ascended from Lna or St. 
Sauveur; the former is to be preferred for its 
grand view. 

Excursion to tbe Cirque de Gavarnie. 

There is an excellent carriage-road as far as the 
village of Oavamie, running along a defile, with 
the torrent below, passing Pragn^res and (3bdre 
(7 miles). From Gfedre a mule-track on the left 
leads in two hours to the little chapel of H^as, a 
place of pilgrimage, and in less than two hours 
more to the Cirque do TroQinoiise, by some 
called the Oule de Heas (oule is a plate or dish). 
Tills, though exceedingly fine, is not so impoaing- 
as the Cirque de Gavamle, and it is therefore wise 
to omit the visit, if time presses. 



Route 66.] 



ttAND-»OOK to i'HANC^. 



2V3 



1 



Returning to Gfedre, the toai\ thence soon passes ' 
through the Chaos, a wilderness of huge masses of 
fallen rock; the snowy peaks of Marbor^ (10,662 
feet), Cylindre (10,850 feet), and Taillon (10,322 
feet) being seen to advantage. 

The Brkhe de Roland^ a huge gap, 2e50 feet wide 
and 800 feet deep, in the sharp granite ridge, is seen 
from this point, but not from many other points 
on the road. Twelve miles from St. Sauveur, 
Oavamie, a village formerly occupied by the Tem- 
plars, is reached. The Cirque is now in full view. 
Mr. Packe, the authority on such points, says he 
considers Gavaniie the best centre for moun- 
taineering. 

The Cirqiie de Gavaniie, probably the most 
wonderful natural formation in the Pyrenees, may 
be reached on horseback or on foot. The distance 
from the village, which is really 3 miles, is very 
deceptive. The Cirque is a vast hollow, or amphi- 
theatre, nearly 3 miles in circumference, with 
snow-capped peaks rising on three of its sides to a 
height of 5,000 to 6,000 feet. Mont Perdu is hid- 
den by these eminences. The southern side, the 
frontier bulwark of Spain, is an almost perpen- 
dicular wall of marble rock, with layers of snow 
and glacier resting on steep ledges all the year. 
Sixteen waterfalls descend into the Cirque, the 
principal one being 1,326 feet, one of the highest 
in the world (400 feet higher than the Staubbach 
at Lauterbrunnen). 

From the south-west comer of the Cirque the 
ascent of the Br^che de Roland commences. This, 
aj already said, is a great gap in the barrier wall 
(which is, however, not seen from below), cut, as 
tradition says, by a blow of Roland's magical 
sword Durandel, to make a way to pursue the 
Moors. Mont Perdu, 10,991 feet, which is in 
Spain, is best ascended from this point. For fur- 
ther information about the Spanish Pyrenees, see 
jBradshaw's Band-Book to Spain and Portugal. 

ROTJTE ee. 

Bordeaux, up the Garonne, to Agen, Mont- 
auban, Toulouse, Carcassonne, Narbonne, 
Bdziers, and Cette. 

By Chemin di Per du Midi Rail,^ 1297 miles ; 

about 8i hours, by express. Embarcadtre in 

Coun St. jQan. The line, opened tbrousbout in 1 
3 



April, 1857, follows the OdronUe to Toulouse, and 
the Canal du Midi all the way. 

Along the south bank of the river, to the first 
station, 

Bugles (3 J miles), where arc many country- 
houses of the Bordeaux merchants, with a church 
of the 13th century, and remains of Roman AquC' 
dttcts, which ran to the old city of Burdigala, 
Population, 10,535. 

ViUenave d'Omon (6i miles), close to ViUo- 

nave {i.e., Villeneuve) de Rions. Here again is an 
old Church, with further remains of aqueducts. 
The Pope Clement Vineyards are near at hand. 

CadaujaC (1| miles). Here the district of the 
Landes is left behind. 

St. M^dard d'Eyrans (3i miles) is about 
3.} miles from La Brede, which has a Romanesque 
Church, and the old moated Chateauof Montetquieu^ 
who here wrote his "Esprit des Lois," and his 
"Causes de la Grandeur et de la Decadence dea 
Romains.'' Here they show his library, chapel, 
and several portraits, also the manuscript of the 
Lettres Persanes, and some frescoes. The Donjon 
and some other parts date from the 13th century. 

Beautiran (3 miles). Remains of a Roman 
way and camp at Castres. Branch, 20 miles, to 
Hostens, on the St. Symphoiicn line (page 274). 

PortetS (If mile) is opposite the old Roman- 
esque Church, and ruined Castle of Langoirau, 14th 
century. The latter belonged to Pope Clement V. 

ArbanatS (2 miles) is near the ruins of Castel- 
moron, which was destroyed in the religious war*. 
White wine is produced here. 

Podensac (2J miles) has a gravelly soil, « n 
which white wines are raised. 

Cerons (U mllc) is the ancient Sirione, 
opposite Cadillac (population, 3,399), to which 
there is a suspension bridge. The splendid 
chateau of the Due d'Epemon, Governor of 
Guienne, was converted into a House of Detenffo**. 
in 1816, to save it from being pulled down. 
It was built by Langlois, and has carvings 
by Girardon. J Hats Castle (»| miles) is worth 
notice ; as arc the Romanesque Churches of Landiras 
(6 miles) and Loupiac. 

Barsac (3 miles) is noted for its whito wines, 
wb Icharo classed with Sauternc. Population, 2,998, 



w 



2U 



SRADSHAW 8 ILLUSTBAtED 



£Sec. 6; 



Freignac <1} imle), in a fertile soil, noted for ; 
wine. Omnibus up the Ciron, to Sauteme, 
and ChdUau-Yguem, where the well-known White 
wines are produced, and to YUlandraut Ccuile, the 
ruined seat of Clement Y., originally built by a 
Don Andrea Lopez. Uzeste (3 miles from this) 
yr&s rebuilt by Clement. 

Itani^OJL (3 miles) was formerly a Boman station, 
and afterwards held by the English, who built the 
large Gothic Church. Three lines of walla have 
been traced. It stands in a delightful spot on the 
Garonne (here crossed by a suspension bridge), 
with 4,733 population, who trade in white wine, 
eau-de-vie, ifec. Hotei-DuLion d'Or. A Steamer 
runs to Bordeaux. Branch rail, passing the fine 
ruins of Roquetaillade Castle, built by Cardinal 
Lamothe, to Nlzaxi (7i miles), thence to Bazas. 
At Nizan, the line from Langon, via St. Sym- 

phorien (page 184), to Arcacbon (page 260), 
on the west, and Sore and LllXey, on the south, 
parts off. 

[BazaB (5 miles), a sona^pr^fecture and bishop's 
see, of 4,948 people (department Girondc), and 
a very ancient Gallic town (Cossio Vasatum), 
on a rock above the Beuve. The Cathedral of 
the 13th century is remarkable forihe number 
of Its pillars, and the 286 figures in its sculp- 
tured portals. The old church of Notre Dame 
du Mercadil, founded by St. Martial, is now a 
bakehouse. ffotel.—Dn Cheval Blanc. 

Several old houses exist in Grande Place, with 
parts of the ancient walls. 

The father of the Roman poet, Ausonius, was a 
native. The line is to be continued to Auch. 
Here you enter the Landes country.] 

The trunk line crosses the Garonne, and from 
hence follows the north side of the river. 

St. Macaire (l^ mile), a decayed town, with 
remains of old walls, and a half Romanesque, half 
Gothic churchy 195 feet long. Population, 2,249 ; 
formerly 6,030. Oumibus to Verdelais chapel, 
which contains an image much venerated by pil- 
grims. 

St. Plerrd d'Aurillac (2^ miles). 

Gaudrot (1} mile), near the embonc|iure of 
Oanal Lai^Sral. It was begun 1832, in eontinna- 
tlon of the Caofil du Midi, at ToxUouse, from 



which it descends by 66 locks. Casiets Chateau, built 
by Clement V.'s father, partly restored (P^gc 260). 
Caueuil, at the junction of the Drot with the 
Garonne, was a seat of the early French kings, 
called Cassinoailum; which had a palace, or Villa 
Regia, of Charlemagne's, where his wife, Hild^- 
garde, gave birth to twins, one of whom was the 
feeble Louis-le-Debonnaire. Cross the Dropt, on 
an arch 92 feet span, to 

Gir0]ld6 (2^ miles^ The views here are pic- 
turesque. Coach to Sauveterre. 

La R^le m miles), a sons-pr^fectaie in de- 
partment Gironde, on the rooks above the Garonne 
(crossed by a suspension bridge), having a Church 
and Castle built by the English; Hdtel do Ville, 
on the site of a monastery of the 8th century; an 
old house called the Synagogue, and other antiqui- 
ties. It possesses, also, an intermittent spring, 
and another of a petrifying quality. Population, 
4,177. Eota.—li&font. 

A steamer runs to Langon and Bordeaux. As- 
cending the river, you come next to 

LamOtbe Landeron (4 miles), within view 
of Meilhan tower, of which a current proverb says, 
" Qui voit Meilhan n'est dedans." 

Ste. Bazeille (H miles). Population, 2,810. 

Marmande (4^ miles), a sous-prefecture in 
department Lot-et-Garonne, and a bustling place 
(population, 10,341,), with a suspension bridge, 
a palais de justice, a church of the |3th and 
15th centuries, college, and several fountains of 
excellent water. Richard Coeur de Lion rebuilt 
and fortified the town. Hotel. — DesMessageries. 

Rail, 60 miles, opened 1892, through Castol- 
JalOUZ, where are two thermal establishments 
with iron springs, to Uont-de-BEarsan, page 263. 

A line (36 miles) rmis from Marmande t» 
Bergerac. (See page 179). 

Fanguarolles (54 miles), near Mas d'Agonais, 
the seat of M. Emmanuel Arago. 

TonneixlS (5 miles), one of the most beautiful 
places in the department Lot-et-Garonne. in two 
parts above the Garonne, here crossed by a sus- 
pension bridge. Place de TEsplanade, where an 
old Castle once stood, commands a delightful view, 
which takes in the Pyrenees. The houses are well 
. built, but irregularly placed, whieh gives dii« 



Route 06.] 



HAKD-BOO& to t^EAKCK. 



27 



4''»- 



1 



effect to the prospect of the town. Population, 
7,090. It has a govemmeut tobacco factorv, aivd a 
Protestant chapel. li; was ordered to be destroyed 
by Louis XIIJ. for its attachment to Protestantism. 
The name is derived from its old one, Tonnantius 
ferredus. Madame Cottin was born here, 1773. 

Hotel.-^De TEurope. Coaches to Glairac, Ac. 

Ni60l6 (4jf miles), near the junction of the 
Garonne and Lot, which latter is traversed (close 
to the Garonne) by a tubular hndge, 527 feet long, 
on three wide arches. Above this is a stone bridge 
of seven arches, l^uilt 1825. 

AlgoUlon (2| miles), near the Lot and Garonne, 
was called Esquittonum ; and still shows the thick 
walls (partly Roman), tpwerp, and turrets of the old 
Castie of the Dues d' AigniUon, whose more modern 
seat is also here. Population, 3,119. ffoM. — ^Du 
Commerce. Aiguillon was held by the EogUsb in 
13i6, when besieged by John of France and 60,000 
men, without success, though cannon were used 
for the first time. Kear it on the right, is part of 
a Roman Tower^ called Tour de St. Cdme. This is 
round, and stands near another which is square, 
called Peyre-Longue. 

Fort Ste. Marie (^f miles), at the suspension 
bridge over the river, is a picturesque old place, 
like many others here. At Barbaste is a Gothic 
bridge, near a square-built Mill (called a chftteau), 
from which Henry IV. used to style himself the 
"Miller of Barbaste.'* Branch rail to N^rac, 
I^asserre, Condom and Banze. 

CNerac (I2 miles), vid Vianne, Aic, a sous- 
prefecture in dept. Lot-et-Garonne, is partly 
old and partly modern, joined by two bridges 
over the Baise. The name is supposed to come 
from Nereidumaquce. It has the mouldering 
remains of a Castle of the Dukes d'Albret, 
where Henry IV. once lived; and the Foun- 
tain of Si. Jean, shaded by two immense 
elms, one planted by the king, the other 
by Marguerite de Valois, his grandmother, 
who here received Melanchthon and Calvin. 
It was the head-quarters of Henry when the 
treaty of N^rac was signed with Catherine 
de Medicis, 1580. A browe Statue of Heniy 
standaon the beautiful Qfironne promenade, 
by the river. There is a good modern church 



with a large mfirket halle, on pillars. Many. 
Roman coins were found here, 1831-3, which 
the Academic des Inscriptions pron9unced to 
be forgeries ; but genuine Roman traces have  
been discovered." N^rac was taken, 1621, by 
the Due de Mayenne after a loi^^ siege. The 
pates depet'drix are notc^. Pop^latipn, Qi^Q^* 
Hotel.~^I>\x Tertre, 

Lasserre (5 miles), then to Condom (8 mllesX a 
sous-prefecture in department Gers; popula- 
tion, 7,406. It dates from beyond the 9th cen- 
tury, and is pleasantly situated on a rock" 
above the Baise. A fine large Gothic Church • 
ornaments the Grand Place; it ha swell-planted 
boulevards. Hotels.^Dxi Liond'Or; de Peyrc- ' 
cave. 

From here it is 11 § miles to 

Cast^ra Verduzan, or Chftteau Vivant, In a 
charming valley. It is noted for its mineraX 
Waters, and has a large Grecian bath-house, 
with twenty baignoires. The springs are both 
iron and sulphuretted, and are very useful. 
From Condom, 21 miles, to ^ujsd (popula- 
tion, 4,110) on the road to ^Iflcld, page 264. 

Passing the old conspicuous church of Clernwi^ 
Dessous, the rail comes to 

FourtlC (3 miles), and 

St. Hilaixe (3^ miles). Then comes 

Golayrac (3 miles). From this, parsing over 
the Canal Lateral, it is 3^ miles to 

AQEN, 

A buffet^ 85 miles from Bordeaux, 75J from Tou- 
louse. Ask for P&te de perdrix aux truffes. Rails 
from Pdrigueux and Tarbes meet here. 

Population, 23,234. 

Hotels. — De France; St, Jean. 

A large and very old town, the chief place of de- 
partment Lot-et-Garonne, on the north side of the 
Garonne, in a wide and fertile plain, under a hill, 
420 feet high ; and having a communal college, » 
law court, nonnal school, and other buildings. It 
was the Roman ^9t»nt<m, of which there are si til 
some traces. As a county in Aquitaine, it belonged' 
to Richard Cceur de Lion, who gave it to his sister 
when she married Raymond VI. It af terwai-ds suf- 
fered in the religious troubles. It is ill-built, thf 
best quarters being in the Faubourg, on tbe Bor- 
I dcauz road, near the bridge, and the Oravier§ 



276 



BRADSHAW'S ILLUSTRAl?£b 



[Sec. 6. 



PlvmeruuU, Mrhtch, bordered With fine elms, Is said 
to be one of the most beautiful in the south of 
France. Here is the Jasmin statue; and here 
the large September fair is held. Observe the 
marks on the houses, showing bow high the in- 
undations of 4th June, 1855, reached. It suffered 
again in the floods of 1875, when the statue of 
Jasmin was seen standing out of the water. 

. St. Caprais* Cathedral is a curious monastic pile, 
of the 12th and 13th centuries, much altered ; con- 
taining some very early tombs. The Jacobins* 
thurch is a Gothic pile of the 18th century. St. 
Hilaire*s deserves notice. Among other public 
buildings are the large priests' seminary ; the 
Pr^/eeft H6td, once the episcopal palace, standing 
in a park, with a triumphal arch in front ; the old 
H6tel de Yille, with a Museum of fossils and 
antiquities; a fine C<n*n haU^ on the site of St. 
l^tienne's (Stephen's) old Church, which was the 
cathedral till ruined, except the front, in 1798. 

Kear the eleven-arched bridge is an ancient 
structure, called Le Las, now used for a House of 
Industry. There i8athcatrealso,withpublicBaths, 
one being a part of the old bridge. Two other 
bridge* cross the river— one a suspension bridge ; 
the other, an aqueduct on 33 arches, for the Canal 
Lateral. Afont Pompon commands a vast pros- 
pect of the country around, the course of the 
Qaronne, and the Pyrenees in the distance. 

Agen is the native town of B. Palissy, the potter; 
of the lea.med Joseph Sealiger; Lac^p^de, the natur- 
alist; Bory Saint Vincent, and other eminent men; 
notably Jeumin, the harbor poety who lived in 
Cours St. Antoine. He wrote his pieces in Gascon. 
Miss Costello describes him as conscious of his 
talents, yet not vain, and perfectly simple-hearted. 
In the midst of his Paris triumph, he said, " II faut 
partir; les barbes poussent k Agen" (I must be 
off ; beards are growing at Agen) . 

There are manufactures of sail-cloth, serges, 
moleskins; and an eau-de-vie distillery. Trade 
in grain, wiue, prunes, Ac; but especially j>ruiie«. 

Rail to P^rigueux, Condom, Ntfrae, Cahors, 
Mont-de-Marsan, Ac. Steamer to Bordeaux. 

.^ The CburQh yf Molrax (2| miles of!) is worth 
UQtioe, 



[Here the rail to Auch and Tarhes turns off, up 
the Gers. 

It passes Bon-Eucontre (Sf miles) to Lasrrac 

(3 miles), which has a good church; then 

Astaffort (5 miles). Castex-Lectourols 

(5 miles) to 
Lectoura (5 miles), in department Gers; asoni- 
pr^fecture and ancient town on the Gers, once 
occupied by the Romans, under whom it was 
the capital of the Lactorates. Population, 4.994. 
It stands on an immense rock, faced all round 
by deep precipices ; but though strongly forti- 
fied, and almost impregnable, it has frequently 
suffered f^om war. Near the old Gothic church 
is a statue of Afarshal Lanne*, who was a native, 
and who, they say, in his early days, had been 
hired to plant the beautifbl promenades at six 
sons a day. They command very fine prospects; 
and hero the Marshal, when he came to be 
Duke of Montebello, used to meet his friends, 
and relate the history of his life. Lannes, who 
was one of Napoleon's favourite generals, com- 
manded at the siege of Saragossa, and was en- 
gaged in about 850 actions before he fell at 
Essling. Hotel. — DaroUcs. 
Fleiiraace (6i miles), with a fortified church 
of the 14th century, Montestruc (3| 
miles), Salnte ClirlStie (8 miles), on to 
Auch, 8 miles further. 

AUCH. 
HoTXLS — De France ; D'Angleterre. 
A very old town of 14,782 Inhabitants, chief place 
of department Gers, seat of an archbishop (who 
was called the primate of Aquitainc), tribunal, 
college, society of agriculture, Ac. Before 
Crassus took it in Caesar's wars, it was named 
Clintberu, and was the capital of the Auseii 
Augustus planted a colony here on his return 
from Spain. It forms a picturesque amphi- 
theatre, on a hill-side, divided into Haute and 
Basse ViUe, by the Gers, joined by a street of 
stairs of 200 steps, called the " pousterlo," or 
postern. The streets are narrow and crooked. 
Haute Ville, or Upper Town, has the best 
houses, and a fine square, which commands n 
view of the Pyrenees. Here is a statue of 
Etigny. Near it is 
8t. Mary's Cathedral, begun 1488, and finished 
in the time of Louis XIV., is a mixture of thQ 



Route 66.1 



HAND-BOOK TO FBANCE. 



277 



Qothlo and Grecian styles ; the latter appear- 
ing in the front, over which arc two regular 
towers. They say it was first founded by 
Clovis. It has a high vaulted roof, several 
good monaments in the side chapels, stained 
windows, wood carvings, and a fine rood-loft 
(jubd), black marble font, marble figures, and 
five crypt chapels. The Palace is close by. 

There are also the Hotel de la Prefecture, Palais 
de Justice, Hdtel de V ille, museum, and s^min- 
aire,with another museum and library, also a 
public Library of 20,000 volumes in the old 
chapel of the Carmelites, and large hospital. 

Cardinal Ossat, D. Serres, the marine painter, 
and Yillaret-Joyeuse, the sailor, were natives. 

Large turquoises are found at Simorre, in the 
neighbourhood. There is a road through 
Lanncmezan (page 291) to AXTeau (rail being 
constructed), page 292, passing tfla-Tiai^Yli where 
there is a rich collection of palseontological 
remains. From Aueh to Toulouse by rail, 54 
miles, we pass Aublet, Glmont (whore 
turquoises are fonnd), LTsle, (correspondance 
to Lombez, page 289), Plbrac, and ColO- 

mlers. 

From Aueh to Tarbes, by rail, you pass 

St. Jean-le-Comtal (5| miles) and L'lsle-de- 

No6 (7^ miles) to 

Mlrande ^4^ miles), a sous-prdfectnre in de- 
partment Gers, and a very old place on the 
Baise, founded 1289, by the Counts of Astarac. 
Parts of the walls remain. Good bathing 
house. Population, 4,244. Hotel. — Tartas. 

The next stations are Laas (5} miles), MiOlaU 
(4 J miles), Ac, to VlC-en-Blgorre (13 miles) 
for Tarbes (lli miles), as n Route 64.] 

From Agen the next station is 

Bon-Encontre (3 miles), where the Tarbes line 
runs off (see page 276). 

LafOX (21 miles), at the suspension bridge, 
on the Garonne, which the rail runs close by. 
The Churches of Layrac and Moirax, and EMtillac 
Castle^ are from 1 mile to 5^ miles distant. 

St. Nicolas (3| miles), near another suspension 

bridge. Population, 2,022. 
LamagiStire iH milvs) is in department Tam- 

et-Garonne. Across the Ca.iial I^at^ral, on a skew 
bridge (pont bials). 



Valence d'Agen (3i miles). Population, 8,404. 
/lotel. — ^St. Jean Baptiste. It was noted for goo«e 
quills till steel pens spoilt the trade. At thft 
Maiton de la Foi the Inquisitors sat in the religious 
wars, and s nteuccd 43 persons to be burnt. 

Malauze (4^ miles) has an old ChAtcau. Roman 
remains have been found. Population, 1,000. In 
1827 the diligence was stopped and robbed by a 
brigand, at the head of a band of men drawn up 
by the road-side — ^who turned out to be nun of 
straw, planted there by the ingenious robber. 

MoiflSac i&h miles), in a cultivated hollow, on 
the Tarn, at the new bridge (built 1826), not far 
from the Garonne, is a sous-prefecture of 8,797 
souls, and an ancient town, which sufferod in the 
wars with the English and the religious wars. 

It has remains of a rich Af>bey, founded in tho 
7th century, by St. Amand, which came to he 
attached to Cluni abbey, and was governed liy an 
abbey-knight, a mixture of layman and churchman. 
The old Church of this foundation, dedicated to St. 
Peter and St. Paul, and rebuilt in the 15th century, 
has a deeply-recessed Porch, covered with figures of 
the Annunciation, Adoration of the Wise Men, 
Flight into Egypt, and the Apostles; while the 
capitals in the ruined cloisters of the 11th and 12th 
centuries are adorned with other bas-reliefs, some 
grotesque and indecent, of the Virtues and Vices. 

Trade in wine, saffron, grain, and salt. 

ffotels.—Da Luxembourg; du Nord. 

Leaving Moissac, you pass through two tunnels, 
then a deep cutting ; then across the Tarn, by a 
tubular bridge, 1,010 feet long, on five wide arches 
(three of which are 230 feet span), within view of 
the aqueduct for the Canal du Midi. 

Castel-SarrasUl (4 mile«), another sous-prefec- 
ture, with 7,772, population, on the Garonne, where 
the Azin falls in (whence the name, Sur-Azin), is 
in a fertile spot, and well built, having promenades 
on its old ramparts, two ancient gates, and a Gothio 
Church. The Abb^ dc Prades was a native. Five 
miles to the north-cast is the Camp de Gandalou, 
supposed of the Vandals, ffotel. — De TEurope. 
Coach to Lo.i.boz (pagr 289). 

La VUledieu (o miles), where the Knights 
Templars and Knights of MnUa had a Cqr)- 
maudcn*. 



•«8 



BRADSHAW'S XLLVSTRXTED 



At 1 ffl{|e« fttrth^, past ft enliln^ an^ m em- 
iMiikineiit, «aclk < mile lon^, fs 

MOirrAUBAV, 

J28| miles from Bordeaux, 31| from Tonlonse, 

Here Route 51 falls i»— which unites MonUnban 
with P^rigneax, Rodez, Clermont, and Pny, by the 
Grand Central Raff. The station for this line Is ih 
Villenoarelle ; and a new Bridffe^ on seren arches, 
was bnilt, 1857, over the Tarn, to oj»en a com- 
manication between it and the Dil Ifidi stiition 
in YlIIc Bourbon. 

PoPiTLAtioir, S0,t8S. 

HfimEtR,— De rCnro^; dv Midi. 

Chief t*fwn of department Tarft-et-Oanmile 
fformed by NapotMn, In 1808, ont of (he neigb- 
bonrfitjf depaHments), teat of a bishopric, of a 
theologieal edllege for Protestanta, Ac, on a hill 
orii^nally called Xona Apreoloa, between the Tarn 
And Teaeoo. It waa founded in the 12th century, 
by the Counts of Tooloase, who had a castle here, 
smong the willows (jtHha in the Qascon tonsrae), 
whence the nAme is thoairht to be derived : but 
iUim% mske it to be from Mens Apreolns (by cor- 
raMIoo ^o^ AIbans\ a nsme preserved in the 
liontaHol abbey, founded in the 8th century. It 
#fts delivered up to the Bla^k Prince, 1861, by the 
ititiif of Bretigny. Under the Coniuls who^ovemed 
fti li beeatne one of the head-quarters of the 
llij^j^acnot or Beformed faith; and successfully 
rcjistcd Louis XIII. in three sieges, 1621 (in one 
of which the Due de Maycnne was killed), but 
opened Its grates to him and Richelieu, on the fall 
of Rochellc, eight years after. Louis XIV. sent 
hf« dragxins here, and razed tiie Walls, which was 
so far beneficial that the town had thenceforth 
room to extend itself. 

^(ost of the old town is of brick, on a plateau, 
50 or CO feet above the river, with a deep ravine on 
one side. A brick bridge, built 1303-16, of seven 
p ilntcd arches, has the Hotel de Ville, St. Jacques' 
lirlflc church of the 13th century, and the Quay, at 
QIC cud ; and, at the other, a sort of brick trium- 
phal arch, leading to Faubourg Bourbon, which 
w.is founded 1562, by Protestants from Toulouse. 
The Quaff, just mentioned, surrounds a jKa«i*» made 
bv a branch of the Canal du Midi, and is adorned 
"■e of Ingres. 
Tdro/, built 1739, by Larroqufe, Is In tii$ 



CSiec.^ 



Italian style, nd in the shape of • Greet crvSk, 285 
feet by 1 J5, wUh two cloek-towers over tbe |nla»- 
tered front ; the vault, on Doric p!Uar«, fa 8S feet 
high. It eontains the "Vow of Louis Xllf — a 

copy, by a lady, ot the original d-^ne by Ingres, a 
native artist. Another of his works, " St. Germain 
healing the Shepherd,'' was given by him, in 1857, 
to St. Etienne's Chapel, in Faubourg de Sapiac. 

Other buildings are the Pr4fietnrt and its tur- 
rets, the bishop's palace, two priests' seminaries, 
the French Protestant chapel, theatre; and the 
H^d de rme, restored, which contains pletares 
(mostly copies) presented by Baron de Mortaris 
and by Ingres (in two rooms), with a Library 
of nearly 25,000 volumes, and an archseological 
museum with Roman antf^juitles, medfaevid tombs, 
Ac. Place Royale is the most regular of the 
squares, having a gate at each comer, and a 
fountain in the midst. In Grand Place the patriots 
were massacred, 1791. 

there is a theological College of the Reformed 
Church here, with seven professors, besides an 
orphan-house for forty children. There are several 
resident pastors. 

A turning by Caf^ de rEtoile, in PauTwnr^ 
Dumonstiers, leads to Les Terrasses; whence there 
is a vast prospect of the fertile country beyond, 
taking in the Pyrenees, which may be seen in fine 
weather (distant 50 leagues). Above and below, 
are the pretty Falls of the Tarn; which river in 
November, 1766, rose 34 teet above its usual level. 
Cazalbs, an orator of the Constituent Assembly, 
was a native. 

Manufactures of cadis de Montauban, or woollen 
serges, stuffs, silk stockings, cotton, soap, pottery, 
eau-de-vie; with a trade in these, and g^rain, 
leather, oil, wool, drugs, spices, &c. 

Rail to Cahors, and to Cfastres (page Sfsij, by 
St. Sulpice (page 211) and Lavatir. 
Lavanr, on the Agout, with a popula^lofi of 6,929. 

The next station is 

Moiltbartier (7i miles), once a fortified town. 
Correspondance to Bourret and Beaumont dk 
LoMAGjfE, a well-built little town,in the rich valley 
of the Gimone, with a good trade. PoptUdtion,- 4,040. 

01enp81ltdle (4^ miles). Coftches i6 irerdnn, 
nti^ La ftiis-OMrinier. V>tt>im, ikr<Ml tlil> ^fver, 

has a population of 3,276. 



Koute 66.] 



HAND-BOOK TO PRANCE. 



279 



GriSOlleS (3 miles) has a Church with a Roman- 
esque porfaZ of the I3th century, chiefly of brick, 
and adorned with various carvings. Correspond- 
ance to Fronton. Pompfeg-non Chateau is near. 

Castelnau-d'Estretefonds (3i miles). Corre- 

spondauce for Grenade, Smiles; population, 3,924. 

Cross the Lhers, on a three-arch bridge, to 

St. Jory (i miles). Then 

LacourtensoiITt (5i miles). The line then 
runs between the canal and river, for 4^ miles, to 

TOULOUSE, 

A buffet. 160^ miles from Bordeaux, 136| from 
Cette. The station is in the north-east suburbs, 
near the All^e Napoleon. Five rails meet here. 
Omnibuses wait on the trains, 25c. to 40c., besides 
20c. to 30c. each for packages (par colis) ; or voi- 
tares de famille (holding six), 3 francs, including 
baggage. Citadinos, or cabs, Ifr. 10c. the course. 

Population, 149,791. 

Hotels. — Hotel du Midi, first-class hotel, on the 
Place dii Cupitole ; recommended. 

Qrand Hotel TivoUier, an elegantly furnished 
house. 

Hotel de TEurope; Grand Hotel Souville; de 
Paris; Chambord; Capoul ; . Bolchere ; Sacaron. 

Ca/^*.— Oaf dTivoUier; Albright 

Post Office, Rue Ste. Ursule. 

Telegraph Office^ Rue d'Alsace-Lorraine. 

^"Objects of Noticb.— Pont Neuf — Fontaine 
de la Trinity— Cathedral— Church of St. Semin— 
Hotels d'Assezat, Daguin, &c. — Museum— Capi- 
tole — Protestant Church. 

This ancient town is the capital of department 
Haute-Garonne (part of High Languedoc, in the 
provinee of Guienne or Aqaitaine) and of south 
France; the seat of a military division, an arch- 
bishop, law coart, university, Acad6nie des Jeux- 
floraux (or floral games, first founded, 1323, by the 
Tronbadouf s), and of many literary and scientific 
Institutions. It stands on a fertile plain between 
the Garonne and the Canal dn Midi (i.e., of the 
South), 192 miles (by road) from Limoges, 93 miles 
from I'au. It was the head of the Tectosages, 
when the Romans took it, and made it a free 
colony, 106 B.C.; afterwards it was called To'osa. 
from whence comes the present name. 



The Visigoths made it their capital till they were 
conquered by Clovis, 507 ; at a later date it was 
governed under its Counts, by a body of consuls, 
or "capitouls," chosen by the people, till Louis 
XIV. took this privilege away. Among its Counts 
were Raymond IV., one of Tasso's heroes, who 
died a crusader in Syria. Raymond V. was 
besieged here by Henry 11. of England, for refusing 
homage to him as lord of Guienne ; from the next 
Raymond, who protected the Albigenses, it was 
capiured, 1215-17, by the fanatic hordes led by 
Simon de Mbnf/ort, who was killed under the walls, 
1218; and in 1221 St. Dominic established the 
Inquisition here, till the people drove him across 
the Pyrenees again, six years after. It was united 
to the French crown in 1361. When Charles V. 
threatened Toulouse, 1539, it mustered 35,000 men- 
at-arms. Wellington defeated Soult close at hand, 
1814. 

Though many improvements have been made, 
there are still many irregular narrow streets, 
paved with abominable pebbles; the houses and 
buildings are mostly brick, some of the oldest 
being covered with stucco and wood-work. "Here," 
says Trollope, " on the second and third floor of a 
house, the colour of the gateway of St. James's 
palace, may be found living on, say sixty pounds 
a year, some high-heeled and high-born dame, with 
her equally ancient suivante, or some Monsieur ct 

Madame de , too poor, and far too proud, to 

seek society among the less pure-blooded of the 
present day." 

Several private Hdtels of the 1 6th century, In the 
Renaissance style., are worth notice. The H6tel 
cCAssezat, said to be from designs by Primaticcio, 
is in Rue Pont Neuf. H. Daguin., or Maison de 
Pierre, in Rue Dalbade, was built by Bachelier, 
1612. H.8i. Jean (i.e., of Jerusalem), now a linen- 
market, opposite Maison de Pierre. H. Catelau, or 
Felzins, in Rue Felzins, is dated 1506, and has a 
beautiful mantel-piece by J. Gonjon. ff. de LaS' 
hordes, or Fleyres, in Rue du Vieux Raisin, is 
another of Bachelier's. H. Beimuy (now the 
Lyceum), with its brick machicolated front, was 
built by a rich banker, who became bail for Francis 
I., and received the king and court here, 1538. 
Chateau Petit Gragnague has a monument to Col. 
Forbes, killed, 1814, 



r 



380 



BBADSHAW*8 ILLUSTRATED 



[Sec. 6. 



Its old battleaented Walls, with their nine gates, 
are nearly all replaced by open BoutevardSy beyond 
which lie six or seven faubourgs, exclusive of St. 
Cyprien^ across the river, built since 1785, when 
the quays on the town side were made. This 
suburb is Joined to the city by Pont-Neuf a good 
seven-arch level brick bndge^ finished in 16C7, 858 
feet long (the centre arch is 106 feet span), having 
a tdte du pont, in the shape of a triumphal arch, by 
Mansard, at the south, or St. Cyprien end, leading 
to the pleasant promenade of Cours Dillon, The<iM- 
pentiott bridge to Cours Dillon, built 1842, was car- 
ried away (with two other bridges) in the great 
floods of June, 1875, which laid the whole of St. 
Cyprien under water, destroying 7,000 houses, and 
making 25,000 persons houseless. About 300 per- 
sons were drowned. At FenouiUet, 4 miles above 
the city, only three houses were left out of 400. 
This was the worst flood since 1727. A former 
suspension bridge, called St. Pierre, near the 
Hospice, was carried away by the floods of 1855. 
An inundation, in 1727, swept down more than 900 
houses in He de Tounis, on which stood the Cnstle 
of the dukes and counts who formerly ruled here. 

Other Walks are on the quays, esplanade, the 
allies along the canal and the large Jardin de* 
Plantes. Near the bridge is the Chateau d'Eau, or 
water- works, which supply the city, partly through 
a bequest of M. Laganis. One of its best Fountains 
is in Place de la Trinity ; another, 56 feet high, in 
Place St. Oeorges. Place Lafayette is large. 
All^e Lafayette has a statue of P. P. Riquet. 
The market for fruit and flowers, in Place du 
Capitole, has one side of it lined by a gallery, or 
arcade. 

St. Etienne's Cathedrai is an irregular building; 
the oldest part being the nave, built in the 18th 
century, by Raymond VI., whose arms are In the 
roof ; a portal and large rope window were added 
by Archbishop Dumoulin. The semicircular choir,- 
which is mveh out of line with the nave, was re- 
built, 1609-12 (after the fire), in a handsome Gothic 
style. It contains seventeen chapels round the 
choir, an altar of Languedoc marble, and a gpreat 
bell of 50,000 lbs. weight in the tower. Close to it 
are the brick remains of St. Raymond's College. 
The Fountain in the square dates from 1650. 

A much older church Is St. S^rnin, or Saturnin. 



rebuilt 1090, on the site, they say, of a Roman 
temple, in the Romanesque style of the 12th century 
(as seen in the choir and transepts, said to be the 
best extant) and the Gothic of the Hth and 16th 
centuries. The south portal, or Porte Mi^geville, Is 
in the Renaissance style. Porte dcs Comt€s is or- 
namented with the Seven Capital Sins, and has a 
niche where some of the early Counts were buried. 
The tower consists of six decreasing storeys, with 
a short spire, total height, 460 ft. Within, are 
several great pillars five or six circular side Chap- 
els, one of which, the Sacristy, is called after the 
Sept Dormants (condemned by Trajan); a copy 
of the splendid shrine of the saint ; and an ancient 
restored crypt, in which Ahh6 Laoordaire preached, 
1852. Notice a stall in the abbot's throne, with a 
carving of " Calvin le pore, Pt." (Calvin, the pig, 
preaching). Notre Dame-de-la-Dawade was re- 
built, 1764, on the site of one which belonged to a 
convent, now used for the government Tobacco 
factory. It has seven pictures by Roqnes. One of 
its chapels is dedicated to Godolin, a Languedoc 
poet ; Clemenre Jsaure^ it is supposed, was buried 
hero ; her festival is, in consequence, observed on 
the 3rd of May. St. Paul's has a large dome, with 
a statue on it. 

Several other Churches arc left, out of the 100 
which it had (besides priories, Jec.) In the 16th 
century, when Toulouse was sumamed le Sctinte, 
or holy; some still in use, others turned into 
magazines, Ac. The church of the Corddiers Cwhlch 
contains mummies in its cellars), with its convent 
of the 12th century, was burned in 1871 ; that of 
the Jacobins, of the same age, contains the Hotel 
des Facultds and a library ; another forms stables 
for the Cavalry ; St. Clair*s is a Cannon Foundry 
Dalhade Church, 18th century, formerly belonging 
to the Knights of Malta, has a good brick tower. 
Du Taw is known by a curious fortress-like fa^de. 
St. Pierre des Cuisines, of the 12th century, now 
forms an armoury to the Arsenal. It contains a 
Byzantine tomb of the founder. At the Chapelle 
of the Inquisition, now the Jesuits' chapel, they 
show the cells of St. Dominic. 

Picture Oallery, in Rue d' Alsace-Lorraine, has 
about 500 paintings, some of them good. 

The Gothic Augustine convent is now the 
Museum^ and contains an excellent collection, in 



Houte 66.] 



UAMU-BOOK TO FHANCB. 



28.1 ^ 



tho cloisters^ of Roman and middle-age relics, sucli 
as busts, statuary, and marbles, found at Martres, 
N^rac, «fec., or gathered from the churches and 
religious houses. The well-known JSouIages Collec- 
tion, which the owner (who died 1857) had spent 
25 years in collecting, was at first offered to this 
town, and then bought for the South Kensington 
Museum, for twice the sum. Museum of Natural 
Jliitoiff, at the Jardin des Plantes ; open Sunday, 
12 to 5. The large old palace of the archbishops 
is turned into the Prefecture. Tho Palais de 
Justice, since restored, was the scat of the local 
parliament which condemned Jean Colas to be 
broken on the wheel, 1762, on a false accusation. 
It was carried into effect in Place St. Georges, 
a square of dingy red brick houses. His family, 
in whose behalf Voltaire, after the most strenuous 
efforts for three years, succeeded in obtaining a 
reversal of tho sentence. 

The H6tel de VUle, or Capitole, or Capoul, In Place 
du Capitole, is 3S0 feet by 128, built 14th to 16th 
centuries, with a facade like the front of Somerset 
House, and an Ionic portico, both of the 18th 
century. It includes the iG'randrA^a^re; anoldcourt 
in which Henry de Montmorenci was executed, 1632, 
containing a black marble statue of Henry IV.; a 
gallery called Salles des Illustres, in which are 160 
busts of natives and others; and the Salle de 
Clemence, so called from a statue (brought from the 
Daurade church) of the famous Cl^mence Isaure, 
a lady of the 14th century, and a professor of the 
gai savoir (gay science), in whose honour prizes of 
gold and silver flowers arc given at the May 
meeting of the Jeuz Floraux Society. Among the 
candidates at these fdtes, Marmontel, La Harpe, 
Millcvoye, and V. Hugo, have appeared. 

The Clerical Library comprises 25,000 volumes, 
and Charlemagne's "Heures," or prayer book, 
which he gave to St. Semin's, in 778. Public Library, 
60,f 00 volumes and 700 MS8. There are, besides, 
two seminaries, an hdtel de monnaies, or mint, and 
a Bourse ; the large HQtd Dieu, and another hospi- 
tal called St. Joseph do la Grave ; the Protestant 
hcpice in Allee Bonaparte; artillery and veteri- 
nary schools -> the latter, a large and ample 
building; a powder factory; tho great Bazaclc 
:ind Ch^teau-Narbonnais flour mills, each con- 
taining 34 grindstones, worked by the stream, 
mid of very early du^c : also a synagogue ; and a 



Protestant Church, in which are monuments of the 
English officers who fell in the battle of lOth April, 
18X4. A short canal (de Brienne), cut by the Arch- 
bishop of that name, who constructed the river 
quay, and otherwise did much to improve the city, 
joins the river to the Canal du Midi, at the double 
bridge of Ponts-Jumeaux (twins) ; near which, on 
the Sypifere, Rave, and the Calvinet hills, the bat- 
tle was fought. A stone Pillar, dedicated to the 
Frenc soldiers who fell, marks the site, command- 
ing a view of the distant Pyrenees; the attraction 
of which, it is asserted, influences the pendulum of 
the Observatory, which stands close by the pillar. 

Soult's army occupied a strong position on these 
heights, with the canal on one side and the Lers, a 
small branch of the Garonne, on the other, or north 
side. The English ascended this river, which had 
been widened and deepened, and artificially inun- 
dated ; aud then charging up the slope, drove tho 
French from the heights with great loss. At that 
time Soult was not aware of Napoleon's abdication. 
That he was beaten is well known, yet the visitor 
will sometimes come across an authentic account of 
the " Victoire du Mardchal Soult sur le Due de 
Welltagton!" 

Don Enrique de Bourbon, uncle to the queen 
of Spain, was a resident. When Charles Albert 
abdicated the crown of Sardinia after his defeat 
at Novara, 184S, he stopped here, on his way 
to Portugal. " He arrived in an ordinary car- 
riage, with a valet and courier only, and nobody 
guessed who he was. He was put into the first 
bedroom (No. 4, at the Hotel de TEurope) that 
happened to be vacant, and might have quitted 
Toulouse in as strict incognito as he entered it, had 
not the Jille de ehambre received from the hands of 
the valet a silver warming pan (!) for the purpose 
of warming the royal sheets. On the lid of this 
magnificent, but tell-tale pan, were emblazoned the 
royal arms of Sardinia. Tho maid showed the pan 
to her master, and the cat was out of the bag.'* — 
iTrollope). 

Place de Salin is noted for the heretics formerly 
burnt here; among whom was L. Vanni, a learned 
man burnt to death for atheism (i.e., for daring to 
think for himself), his tongue being first cut out. 

Toulouse is a gay bustling place, a sort of petit 
Paris, much frc(jueatcd by persons of mod?vate 



r 



282 



BRADSHAWS ILLUSTRATED 



income ; especially remnants of old noblesse, wlio, 
without fortune or privilege, maintain their 
superioritj' by the ease and grace of their manners. 
By some it is stigmatised as dull and uninteresting, 
except to antiquaries; yet it is extending every 
day. Caf^s, circles, and places of amusement 
abound; and it is equally distinguished for its 
pursuit of literature and the arts. An important 
Universitp, first founded here, 1215, is in Rue St. 
Jacques. The Academy of Sciences, originally 
dating from 1640, was reformed in 1807, by 
Napoleon I. Its modest device is a star, with 
"lucerna in nocte," below. Hence they were 
called Lanternists. 

There is a second theatre^ the Variet^s, in All^e 
Louis Napoleon J a School of Fine Arts^ and the in- 
dustrial sciences, in Rue des Arts. 

House rent and living are cheap, but the 
weather, though mild, is at times damp and 
changeable. 

The women of this part wear coloured handker- 
chiefs over their shoulders, and a cap with an 
immense stiffened front, spreading like a fan, cut 
at the edges, and trimmed with lace. They are 
soft and attractive in their manners, and fond of 
music. The patois is the Provenpal or Southern 
French, which was (amongst other things) distin- 
guished from the language of the north of France 
by the use of the word oe for " yes," and hence 
called the Langue doc (the language of oc). 

Among the natives, besides Cl^menee Isaure, are 
Fermat, the mathematician ; General Dupuy, whose 
monumental Fountain, 68 feet high, stands in Place 
Dupuy \ iht statesmen, Bertrand de Molville, de 
Yiliele, and de Montbel (the last was a minister of 
Charles X.); Jacques Ctc;a«, the lawyer, whose 
bronze statue, by Yalois, was erected 1850, close 
to the Palais de Justice; Bacfaclier, the architect; 
Dalayrac, the composer, tlnd Paul Riquet, the 
engineer. There is ft marble statue of the last, 
near the station, placed there, 1858. 

The manufactures include hai'dware goods, steel, 
(especially the acUi'ie of Talabat and Co.), oil, 
brandy, beer, dyes, leather, rope, cotton and 
woollen yam, &c., flour, wax candles or bougies, 
soap, paper, hats, pottery, vermicelli ; and a general 
trade is carried on in the produce of south France, 
of which Toulouse is an entrepdt, as wine, refined 
^ fruits, essences. Its pftt^s de foio de canard, 



■Biiffni" 



[Sec. 6. 

ortolans, and mushrooms are noted. There arc 
docks and a small artificial port on the Canal. 

Rail or Coach to Bayonne (by St. Oaadens, 
Pan, and Tarbes (Route 67), Aurillac (Route 61), 
Foix, Ax, and Tarascon, Albi (Route 52), Girons, 
Isle-en-Dodon, Villefranche, Lanncmezan, Laver- 
dun, Montrejcau, «fcc. During the season trains or 
coaches go to the watering-places of Rennes, Dax, 
Ussat, Bagn^res-de-Luchon, Vemet, Moligt, Bag- 
nCres-de-Bigorrc, Cauterels, St. Sauvcur, Bareges, 
Eaux-Bonnes, Eaux-Chaudcs (see Iloutes, 64, 65, 
67). Rail to Paris by way of P^rigueux or Cler- 
mont, and to Bayonne, Marseilles, Perpignan. 

Barques-de-poste, or barges, run on the Canal du 
Midi to Carcassonne, B^ziers, Cette, &c., starting 
daily, early in the morning. A steamer to Bor- 
deaux sometimes runs on the Garonne, in 15 hours; 
return in 32 hours; but usually it comes no higher 
than Agen. 

Leaving the Garonne, the trunk line follows the 
direction of the Canal dll Midi (*•«., of the south), 
or Canal du Languedoe, which was cut, 1667-81, in 
the time of Louis XIV., by Riquet-de-Bonrepos, 
according to the plans of Andr^osi. It begins at 
Agde, at the south end of l^tang de Than, on the 
Mediterranean, and passes B^ziers, Carcassonne, 
&c., to the Garonne, a little below Toulouse, where 
that liver, assisted by the Canal LatAnl, becomes 
navigable to the Bay of Biscay; so th«£ a com- 
plete water communication is thus opened between 
the latter and the Mediterranean. It is 66 feet 
wide. Length about 152 miles, with 62 locks, 
about 100 bridges, and 55 aqueducts. The tunnel 
of Mal-pas Is 567 feet long. Good barges ascend 
and descend it. "There is an airy and comfor^ 
ably-fitted up little cabin, In which, or on the roof 
of which, one may sit at pleasure, and be drawn 
along without jolt or dust, by four horses, at the 
rate of six or seven miles an hour.'* But this con- 
veyance is tedious, from the number of locks and 
turnings, and is saperseded by the railway. Both 
the Canal Lateral and Canal du Midi belong to the 
new company, for 99 years. There is a project for 
superseding them by a ship canal from Bordeaux. 

From Toulouse the rail passes a deep cutting, 
to the Lhers, which is crossed near Chfftean de 
Bonlsset. 

ESCalqtiens (5f miles), near the JincaroUes, 
which is crossed by a bridge of 65 feet, 



lloufe 66.] 



HAND-BOOK TO FBANCE. 



283 ^ 



MOHtlaur (3 miled), on a hill, where the biting 
mistral^ one of the plagues of South France, beginrf 
to be felt at certain seasons. We are now in the 
LauraguaU^ the garden of Langnedoc; Montgiscard 
CAorcA is In view; and sometimes the Pyrenees 
may be seen. 

"Baai^ge (d| mlles), near the Lhers and Canal 
(lu Midi. Population, 1,710. 

ViUenouvelle (2| miles) has a church with 
towers and battlements. Montesquieu Castle, at 
hand, was taken 1617, by the Catholics. Thel 
scenery is monotonous. Gardouch has a depdt ori 
the canal for grain. 

VilleCraziClie (3| miles), in department Haute- 
Garonne, a soas-pr^fecture of 2,656 souls, in the 
middle of the wide, fertile plain of Lauraguais, on 
the Lhers and Canal du Midi. It was taken and 
sacked by the Black Prince, 13£5. Sails for wind- 
mills, woollens, and pottery are made, and vers h 
soie (silk worms) reared. Hotel. — Riyi^re. 

ATlgBOAet (0 miles), a small town grouped on 
a height. Population, 3,390. Dnring the Albl- 
gensian wars of 1242, a band of the persecuted 
party sallied frt>m their refuge in Monts^gur castlo, 
and massacred the Inquisitors established here. 

S^gala (2i miles), in department Aude, lies be- 
tween the highest point of the Canal du Midi and 
the highest pointof the railway (| mile further on). 
That of the canal is 630 feet above sea-level, thai 
of the rail, 648 feet. To the left, near Montf errand, 
or. some isolated masses of stone called the PietTei 
de Nauroune, is a Pillar to Riquet, the engineer o^ 
the Canal du Midi, erected 1825-7, and worth 
visiting for the panoramic view it affords. The 
armistice which followed the battle of Toulouac, 
1814, was agreed upon in the engineer's house at 
Naurouse. There is a cut hence to the St. F(Jr^ol 
reservoir in the Montague Noire. 

KaS-Saintes-PuelleS (3} miles) was a forti- 
fied post, 80 called from two virgin martyrs. The 
country is a wide plain. 

Castelnaudary (3| miles), among a number of 
wind-mills. Popalation, 10,060. It is a sous-pre- 
fecture, in department Aude, on a gentle slant 
from the Canal du Midi, which has a Bauin here, 
1,309 yftdf long, with walks about it, -vyhencei 
the Pyrenees are seen. The town possessed a 



chateau built by Simon de Montfort, and which 
Raymond VI. bm-nt, 1211 ; and here the Due de 
Montmorenci was taken prisoner, at the battle of 
1632, in the rising against Richelieu. St. Michel's 
spire Church has a picture by Rivals; there are 
also a large hospice, founded 1774, by Bishop de 
Langle; and a cemetery, with the tomb of General 
Count Andr^ssy, a naitive, as was Count Dejean. 
It is supplied with water from the Co-d*en Sans, 
a modem work. Pottery, ilour, spirits, ftc^ are 
made. Hotels. — ^NotreDame; de France. 

Here a Branch Rail turns up to Gastres, Albi, 
and Carmauif. 
[It passes SoUlleZ (Of miles), and St. F^Uz 
de Caxaman (5| miles), where there is an 
old castle of the Montmorenci family, to 
R6V01 (3f miles), a thriving town of 5,556 souls, 
on a fertile plain, in Haute Garonne. The 
road to it passes the Chdteau of St. Paulet, the 
seat of Count La Tour d'Auvergne, and Wel- 
lington's head-quarters, 1814. The Count 
possesses the heart of his ancestor, Turenne. 
Las Cascu was th6 seat of the author of the 
' Memorial de Ste. Helfene," and of another 
well-known book, *' Le Sage's Atlas." Hotel. 
— De la Lune. Correspondance, 4 miles, to 
SOBtzB, once a fortified town, and having, on 
the site of the Abbey de la Patx (founded in 
the 9th century, by Pepin), a celebrated School 
or pensionnat for 400, first established 1757, 
by the Benedictines of St. Maur. Sixty pro- 
fessors are attached. It was under the direc- 
tion of Abbd Lacordaire. "C'est une €cole 
(says the Abb^ oh la religion, lea lettres, les 
sciences, les arts, c'est-it-dire le divin, le vrai, 
le r^el, le beau et Tamiable, se partagent les 
henres d'un jeune homme et se di^putent son 
coeur." Henri Larochejacquelin, Gen. Caffar- 
elli, and Andr^ossy were educated here. 

To the south of fitor^ze, in the Stontagnt Jfoir, or 
Black Mountain, is the grotto of Lod Traouc 
d'el Calel ; and th6 ffreat Reservoir of St. Fe- 
re'ol, which feeds the Canal dti Midi by a cut 
to NaaroQze (as above), and is made by shut- 
ting up the vallep of the Ldiidot. Its circuit is 
about 6,400 yards. It is kept at a sttitable 
level by means of a /a//, and vast robinets, or 
tnrn-eoeks. The sources at Plo de la Jussc, 
Conquet, Lampy, Ac, deserve n viP' 



r 



284 



BEADSHAW'S ILLUSTRATED 



AS the Prise cTeau of Alzau, at the summit of 
the head waters of the canal. Here stands 
another memorial to Rlquet, put up in 1837, 
by the Due de Caraman. 

After Revel, the stations are Blan (.H miles), 
Lempaut (3| mile*), Soual (3 miles), and 
La Cr^made (3 miles), to Castres. 

From Soual, correspondance to Puy-LaiirexiB. 

Puy-Ladbbns, 12^ miles west of Castres, 14 from 
Revel, on the Toulouse road, belonged to the 
Counts of Toulouse, and was made a duchy in 
favour of Richelieu's niece. It stands on the 
top of a rock, and was fortified by the Protest- 
ants, whose Academy of Sciences here was sup- 
pressed by Louis XIV. 

CaBtres (4J miles), a sous-prefecture In depart- 
ment Tarn, on the river Agout, which divides 
it from Villeffondon. It has beautiful prome- 
nades called lices (or lists, where tournaments 
were hcM); a Hotel de Yille, formerly the 
palace, built by Mansart ; public library of 
14,000 volumes; barracks for cavalrj' ; large 
hospital; public gardens; the Church of St. 
Benoit (formerly the cathedral), which con- 
tains paintings by Rivals, Lesueur, and Coypel; 
and a protestant temple. Among the natives 
was Rapin, who wrote the "History of 
England." A Logan stone is to be seen 
in the neighbourhood. Population, 27,410. 

Hotels.— Dn'Sord; Sabatier. 

Rail to Montanban (page 278) by Lavaur and 
St. Sulpice. 

From Castres, the Albi line goes by Lautrec 
(9i miles) and LabOUtarie (8 miles), near 
Realmont and its mines of coal and silver, to 
Monsquette (3f miles) and Albi (9^ miles), 
whence it is OJ miles to the collieries at 
Carmaux. (See Route 52.) 

From Castres the line is continued to Labru- 
gUl^ (5 miles) and Mazamet (6f miles), 
a town of 14,861 inhabitants, with manufac- 
tures of woollen fabrics. It has some mineral 
springs. From Mazamet to St.-Anians-Soult. 

St. Pons (sec page 287), Olargues, Lamalou 

(with tiirco bath establishments and warm 
irun springsX to B^darieiUC, imge 288.] 
From Castehiaudary, the next station, after 
passing SI. Pepout, once the seat of a bishopric, is 



[Sec 6. 

Pexlora (5^ miles). Population, 1,300. 
Bram m mlUs), near the Ch&teau de Lordat, 
built in Louis XlV.'s re-gn. 
Coaches to Faiu^aux, Montreal, He. 

[Fakjeaux (7 miles south), anciently Fanum 

JoviSytrom some remains of a Roman temple, 

on the top of a hill, which commands a fine 

view of the Pyrenees and Montagne Noire. 

Montreal, near it, has an equally fine prospect. 

Both pi .ces being occe fortified, were taken 

possession of by the Black Prince, in the 14th 

centurj-. The walls of Montreal were razed 

by Richelieu.] 

Alzonne <B miles), on the Fresquel and Bernas- 

sonne. Chdteau d* Alton is the seat of Count de 

Pin. Population, 1,606. 

P^zens (4i miles), formerly called Voisins. 
Population, 960, %vho work the quarries, Ac, here. 
Pennautier, further on, was the seat of Louve de 
Pennautier, a poetess of the 14th century, who 
left her husband to become the mistress of Gaston 
Phoebus, Count of Foix. Through a deep cuttincr, 
to the picturesque old town of Carcassonne, 5 miles 

further. 

CARCASSONNE, 

A Buffet. 216 miles from Bordeaux, 80 from 
Cette. 

Population, 28,235, many of whom are em- 
ployed in the manufacture of fine woollens. 

Hotels.— Bonnet ; St. Jean Baptist ; Bernard. 

A very old place, chief town of department Aude, 
and seat of a diocese, college, tribunal, Ac, in a 
fertile spot, near the Can«l du Midi, on the Aude, 
which divides the Cit^, or old town, from the VUle 
Basse, or new town, and is crossed by two bridges. 
It was a station, or castellum, in GaJlia Ulterior, in 
Cajsar's time, and came to the Visigoths, the Sara- 
cens, and the Counts of Toulouse, before its union 
with the French crown. A figure of Dame Carcas, 
who they say founded the town, U pointed out by 
the people, near the Narbonnnise gate. It was cut 
as late as the 16th century, with the words "SVM 
CARCAS" beneath. The Ville Basse, dating fh>m 
1247, is the seat of business, and of the greater 
part of the population, while only abouta thousand 
of the i)oorest class inhabit the Cite', which, with its 
streets, towers, and Walls (restored by VloUet-ie- 



Route 66.] 



ttAKD-fiOoR 'to FRANCfi. 



2g5 



Due), is a perfect gem for the antiquary, to whom 
it furnishes at:omp]cte course of the old stylo art 
of fortification, before the use of artillery, when it 
was one of the strongest places in France. The 
Black Prince attempted to take it, 1356. 

The modem part is well built, and watered by 
streams and Fountains ; one handsome fountain of 
Neptune and his Horses, by Barata (1770), stands in 
Place Yieillc. The promenades on the quay, &c., 
are sheltered from the keen mistral wind which 
blows here. Among the buildings woilh notice are 
Hdtel de Yille; the Prefecture, which was the 
bishop's palace, and its large gardens with a Roman 
inscription to A^umerian— the only Roman relic it 
possesses; Library of I0,000yolumes and museum, 
anderthechargeotaSoci^tedcs Arts, founded 1836; 
a new Palais de Justice, with an 8-column portico; 
the barracks, theatre, and hospitals. St. Vincent's 
Church contains much stained glass in its wide 
nare. It was used by Cassini and Mdchain, in 
the geodetic surrey of France. The other parish 
Church of St. Michel has served for the Cathedral 
since 1803; it is of the 14th century, and has been 
restored since a fire in 1849. 

Two bridges— Powt Vieux, about 660 feet long, 
on 12 arches, of the 12th or 13th century (notice 
the view from it), and Pont Neuf, on 7 arches, 
built 1846 -lead orer the Aude up to the Old Town 
or C«W, which is enclosed by a double wall — the 
inner wall, with its circular tower, raised by the 
Visigoths on top of the Roman walls— and the 
outer wall, of the 12th and 13th centuries, at alower 
level. The space between is called the Licet 
(lists), and both lines are set off with posterns, 
battlements, and about fifty towers in all. No. 21 
is the great Tresau^ built by Philippc-lc-Bel, who 
also erected the Porte Narhonnaise^ the principal 
gate, of great height and solidity, flanked by two 
round towers. The whole wall has been restored by 
Viollet-le-Duc, The view takes in the Pyrenees, 
Montagne Noire, &c. The Ccutle^ close to the 
Aude, is a square pile, with towers at each corner. 
Near it is the ancient Cathedral of St. Nazaire 
(Nazarius), which has been restored, and is 194 feet 
long, with two light octagon towers, and composed 
of a Romanesque nave of the Uth century, and an 
elegant Gothic choir of the Uth century. It con- 
tltiQf lomc weU-sUlned windows, tbo tomb (in the 



sacristy) of Bishop Radulph (1266), and the broken 
tomb (121 S) of Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, 
who besieged the town when held by the Albigen- 
sian subjects of Raymond de Toulouse, 400 of 
whom he burnt alive. 

The Cite was governed, till the Revolution, by 16 
mortepays, or bourgeois, subject to certain duties 
performed to the superior lord. 

A small branch canal, carried over the river 
Fresquel, on a 3-arch aqueduct, ends in the Canal 
du Midi, to the planner of which (Riquet) there is n 
pillar (cut from coloured marble at Cannes) 
on the quay of the Jardin Public. Manufactures 
of cloth for the Levant, Ac, eau-de-vie, leather, 
and paper; and a trade in these and wine, gruin, 
and fruit. 

Branch Rail of 28 miles, on the road to Mont- 
LouiS, by Limoux, Alet, and Quillan, as below. 

[Limouz (16 miles), a sous-prefecture, in depart- 
ment Aude, as old as the ninth century, on the 
Aude, with 6,371 souls, who carry on cloth 
manufactures. The famous Blanquette wine 
is produced here. Hotel. — Du Lion d'Or. 

Alet m miles), under the Pyrenees, on the Aude, 
has good mineral Springs. Par Couiza- 
Montaz (4i miles). Correspondance to 
Rennes-les-Dains (13 miles from Limoux), in 
a line gorge, on the Sals, which has also good 
Springs, much frequented. 

Quillan (12 miles), a place of 2,411 souls, 
engaged in the cloth manufactures and iron 
works. Diligence from here, 22 miles, to 
Carcani^res, whence by a horse road, in about 
5 hours, to Mont-Louis. 

The road ascends the Pyrenees up the course of 
the Aude, past Axat, Roquefort, Carcani^res^, 
and Qu^rigut, whence a road leads about 
12^ miles west to Ax (see Route 68); then 
Fourmigubres (6 miles), and the head of the 
Aude (in a lake), to where Route 69 (from 
Parpignan) falls in at 

Mont-Louis (10 miles), a small fort, on a rock over 
the Tet, fortified by Vauban, to command the 
pass of Col de la Perche, about 5,200 feet above 
the sea. In the Place is the tomb of Gen, 
Dagobert. It is 71 miles from Carcassonne, 



y 286 



BEADSHAW S ILLUSTBATEt) 



ISec. 6>' 



Further on you cross the S^ro (which rises to 

the left, under Mont Puif^uial, ahoat9,$40feet) 

at Saillasrouse (6 miles), and come to Bourg- 

Madame (6 miles), on the very frontier, here 

marked by the Sfegre, which is crossed by a 

short rustic bridge, and brings you to Puy- 

cerda, In Spaik, 62 miles from Perpignan. (See 

BracUhaie's Hand-Book to Spain. yi 

Leaving Carcassonne, the main line crosses the 

Canal da Midi, then the Aude, by a bridge on 6 

arches, with the Signal de Noire, tJic highest point 

of the Montagne Noire in view. 3,970 feet above 

the sea. Then comes a tunnel ef 1,812 feet, near 

TrM>6B (4f miles), on the Aude. Here pottery 
and barges are made; and the olive begins to 
appear, with, however, a drier soil. Population, 
1,800. The Orbiel is made to supply the canal by 
an aqueduct of Yauban's, on 8 arches of 36 feet span. 

Floure (8f miles). Near this tiie line crosses a 
former lake (J^tang de Marseillette), drained in 
1804, by an Irish lady, named Lawless, living at 
B^ziers. 

0aP611id]| iH miles) has an old church and a 
ruined Castle, opposite the Montague d'^^Uaric, 
which is quarried for its red stone. Cross the 
Rieugras, at Douzens, to 

MOUX (4i miles), which produces olives, wine, 
almonds, &c. At Redorte are the vineyards of M. 
Matthieu. Rieux-Minervoix is a curious Churchy of 
14 sides, 60 feet diameter, with chapels round it, 
and a cupola roof. To the north is the old abbey of 
Orasse^ containing some of Spagnoletto*8 pictures. 
Coach to Fabrezon (26 miles) and its vineyards, 
under Montagne d*Alaric. 

[Branch to Bieox-Peyrlac and CauneB; 

old abbey-church and marble quarry.] 
LAsdgliail (6| miles), with a population of 
4,793, is noted for its distilleries and fairs. Cross 
the Orbieu, on an iron bridge of 828 feet, to 

VUledalgne (6i miles), on the Orbieu, at some 
distance from the station. Its figs and honey (sold 
in England as Narbonne honey) are much esteemed. 
Marcorlgnan m miles), near the Junction of 
the Orbieu and Aude. Here the Branch Rail to 
Perpignan and Spain (page 294), turns ofL, through 
a deep cutting, ^., ending with a view, of Nar- 
bonne, as it stands among fields of olives, l>| miles 
farther. 



K^ABBOJNNS, 

2A8 miles from Bordeaux, where this line joins the 
coast line to Perpignan. 

HoTFLS.—De France ; delaDorade. Bufet. 

Narbonne is an old fortress, sous-prefecture of 
29,666 populntion, in department Aude, and ouce a 
scat of an archbishop, in a fertile plain, on a cut 
from the Aude to a lagoon called 4lang de la Ro- 
bine, on the Mediterranean, which is three leagues 
distant. The Cevennes Mountains, and Pic do 
Canigou are visible. It stands on the old Aurelian 
way, and was colonised in the 686th year of Rome, 
by Lucius Crassns, as Narbo Martius, the capital of 
OcUlia Narbonensis. The Visigoths made it their 
capital when their leader married the sister of the 
Emperor Honorius, 414. It was for years one of 
the chief holds of the Arabs, before they wera 
driven across the Pyrenees. In 752 it was incor- 
porated with France by Pepin. Chariemagae 
granted a third part of Villeneuve to the Jews, 
who once had a famous RaXMnieal tehool here. 

Many Roman inscriptions, Ac, are let into the 
outer ramparts, especially near Porte de B^ziers, 
which Francis I. rebuilt with what remained of 
the Roman city. Pont des Marchands is part of 
the ancient Pons Vetus, or old bridge. The streets 
are narrow and crooked; the best walks are in 
Place des Barques, and the AlMe des Soaplrs, on 
the Canal. 

St. Just's cathedral ChurcJi, consisting of a largo 
choir only, 131 feet high, with slender pillars and 
painted windows, is a fine Gothic specimen, begun 
1272, having flying buttresses, two towers, and 
battlemcnted chapels, besides monuments of Bishop 
de la Jugie, 1376, Cardinal Brigonnett, and a soldier 
named Lasbordes (black marble, in armour of the 
16th century), with a carving of the Assumption. 
In the Sacristy are some ancient illurainntions. 
Two Popes, Clement IV. and VII., were priests 
here. 

There are six other Churches; St. Paul's being 
large, and as old as 1229; while St. Sebastian's 
flamboyant church has many Roman stones in it. 
The cloister of St. Madeleine (in which are three 
chapels and a Romanesque gate) joins St. Just's to 
the old archbishop's palace. TTtree unequal Towers^ 
with battlements and machicolations, are left, be- 



Boute 66.] 



HAKD-fiOOK TO FttAKCE. 



287 



tween the two highest of which is the now Sdtelde 
Ville, buUt in the Gothic style, by VioUet-le-Duc. 
In this warlike castle the primate lived, under the 
symbol (eleyated above it) of an anere^ in token of 
his rights over the adjoining sea ; and here Louis 
XLIL gave up Cinq Mars to the vengeance of Car- 
dinal Richelieu, who seized him as he was going 
out of the gates. The Museum, coutaining several 
Roman remains, 3,000 medals, and a fine collection 
of porcelain and pictures, is placed in the H6tel 
de Yille. In the Bdtimentt Lamourffuier, there is 
also a collection of architectural remains. The 
Arsenal occupies the site of the castle of the old 
Ylcomtes. Three £^perors. Cams, Carinus, and 
Numerian, were natives of Narbonno. 

M<mt Laures, to the north-west, has traces of a 
country-seat of the Emperor Augustus ; and 10 
kilometres north-east are the church and cloisters 
of Font-ft'oide Abbey. 

In 1887, a line of 12 miles was opened to Bize 
(grottoes with prehistoric remains), forming part 
of an extension towards St. POUB (page 284). 

[St. PoNS-i>K-THOMifeKE8, a sous-prdfecturo of 
3,247 people, in a pretty valley of the Jaur, among 
the mountains. It has a fine old Church, built of 
marble ; and at the head of the river, another 
old Church of Charlemagne's time. Hotel — 
fit. Denis.] 

Coursan (4 miles), on the Audo. Population, 
3,817. Fortified ogival church. The line then 
enters the department of H^rault, and crosses the 
Aubc near the dtang of Capestang. 

KiSBan iH miles). Population, 2,540. Then a 
tunnel of 1,640 feet in Col de Malpas, which is also 
traversed, at a lower level, by the Canal du Midi, and 
at a higher one, by the Montady Gallery. At enter- 
ing, the canal is to the left, but comes out 
to the right of the rail. Montady Castle and the 
Pyrenees ai-e in view. Then the old town and 
cathedral of B^ziers (at 6| miles), crossing the 
Orb, between the canal and town bridges. 

BEZIEBS, 

109 miles from Toulouse, 28 from Cctte. 

HOTKLS. — DuNord; de la Bourse; delaPaix; 
de Paul Riquet ; desPostes; dn Commerce. Buffet. 

The figs of Pnissalcon and Nefi^s, and the Lau- 
rens gamepdtii, are noted. It is a thriving seat of 
tha BrondyTrad$ 



1 



This sous-prefecture of 45,475 ^uls, in depart-- 
ment Hdrault, is the Roman Biterra, finely seated 
on a rock, 200 to 260 feet above the Orb, in a beau* 
tiful country. A proverb says, **If God chose to 
live on earth, it would be at B^ziers.'' The main 
street runs up to it through a ravine. In the 
middle are two fountains, and David's bronze 
Statue of P. P. Riquet^ engineer of the Canal da 
Midi, and, like Brindley, a self-taught genius. 
He was born at a house in Place St. Felix. 

A few Roman antiques are worked into its old 
Wall^ parts of which, however, have been pulled 
down to make room for houses, a theatre, and boule- 
vards,— a measure calculated to benefit its inhabit- 
ants, though injurious to its picturesque effect. It 
was one of the chief towns of the Albigenses^ when 
the '^triple tyrant,*' Innocent III., proclaimed a 
crusade against them, in 1209, headed by Simon de 
Montfort, and 60,000 were slaughtered here. Many 
of them had assembled in the Madeleine church, 
along with their Catholic neighbours; who in answer 
to the Legate's summons, refused to give them 
up, declaring they were *'all Christians and breth- 
ren." It was on this occasion that the Legate cried 
out in a frenzy of rage,^" Kill them all ; God will 
know his own." In 1856, a monumental image 
of the Immaculate Virgin was erected here, 57 feet 
high, as if in commemoration of this triumph of 
ecclesiastical villainy. 

The Cathedral, of the 12th and 14th centuries, 
170 feet long, with its great tower and turrets, has 
a good nave and choir, and several stained windows. 
[ Near it are water-works, by Cordier, and the old 
Bishop's Palace, now the sous-prefecture, command- 
ing a prospect of the Orb, &c., with glimpses of the 
Pyrenees. The H6tel de Ville, dating from 1764, 
has a library and museum. St. Jacques, as well 
as the Madeleine and St. Aphrodisc churches, are 
worth notice for traces of Romanesque work ; the 
last church, partly 10th century, named after the 
patron saint, who came here, they say, as early as 
250, on a camel, and whose old tomb exists. The 
figure of " Pepezuc," the traditional founder of 
the town, is pointed out in Rue Fran^alse. The 
banners are lowered to him at the fgte of Carl- 
tachs, or Procession of the Camel. 

There is an old bridge, of the 14th century, 
with seventeen arches. The Marche aux grains 
was once a church. The college church wat 



J 



-"^^ 






^ri?--=.r 



•»^^>«=^" 






Route 07.] 



HAVD-BOOK TO FfiAKOB. 



289 



md Ibunieillan (popalationf 4,6S4) are on the 
lorth side of the lake. At the former small port 
ire the old ehnrch and cloisters of Yallemagne 
Abbey^ of the IMh oentnry. The last station, Hi 
miles beyond, is ^^ 

CBTTE, 
297 miles from Bordeaux, 137 f^om KaneiUes, 
At the Junction with the Lyons and Mediterranean 
line (see Route 80). 

HoTSLa.^Grand Hotel; Grand Hotel Gallon; 
Barillon. 

Englith Vice-Contut; also, an American Contviar 
Agent. Sea Batht^ near the old station. Joly is 
the season for visitors ; after that the winds blow 
too hard to be agreeable. 

Cette is a thriving, dirty port, with a population 
of 36,541, on a flat piece of land, under an isolated 
sloping chalk hill (590 feet high), outside a lagoon, 
on the Mediterranean, founded in 1666, by Louis 
XIV., to complete the navigation of the Canal du 
Midi. The Harbour is formed by two Moles (one 
1,970 feet long), strengthened by forts at each end, 
and a citadel ; and will hold about 400 sail, which 
may go in and out at all timet, an advantage enjoyed 
by no other port in this quarter. This renders it 
a good starting point for Algeria. It has baths, a 
naval school, M. Donnet's botanic garden and 
museum (open, Sunday) ; and there are salt works 
(14,000 tons yearly) on the etangs^ which are 
traversed by causeways and canals towards the 
Rhone, and towards the Canal du Midi. The Due 
d^Angoulgme made his escape on board a ship here, 
in 1816, when pursued by Napoleon. Good water 
is very scarce, but game and salt are abundant in 
the lagoon. At the head of it is Balarue and its 
warm saline Spring*^ with a temperature of 90*. 
" They have a high reputation in rheumatic and 
especially in paralytic cases." — (Lre.) 

Trade in wine, eau-de-vie, fruit, salt, dried fish, 
sardines, soap, perfumes, liqueurs, coals, chemicals, 
casks (200,000 yearly), Ac, and especially *'made 
wines of all kinds and qualities," for the foreign 
market. Nearly all the "Madeira'' in France is 
made here. 

Steamer to Marseilles in ten to twelve hours ; by 
barge, up the Canal du Midi to Toulouse, in thirty- 
tix hours ; to Algiers in thirty-four hours ; also 
to Barcelona, Valencia, and Malaga. (See Brad* 
show's CentinerUal GufOe.) 



Toulouse to Muret, 8t Gaudeng, Bag- 
n^es-de-Luchon and tbe Maladetta 
and Tarbes. 

By rail to Tarbes, 97 miles. 
Toulouse Station, as in Route 66. 
Portet St. Simon (7i miles), up the Garonne, 
which the English army descended, 1814. 

Huret (6 miles), higher up, where the Longe 
Joins, at the suspension bridge, is a sous-prefec- 
ture, with a popnlation of 4,142. It was besieged 
1213 by Pedro of Aragon, who was defeated here 
by De Montfort. The honses are brick-built. 
Linens and pottery are made. ffotel.-^D» France. 
[About 18| miles west is Lombbz, a small sous-prtf- 
fecture (population, 1,625 only), in a fertile but 
low spot, up the Save, which frequently breaks 
its banks here. Formerly it was remarkable 
for an Augustine Abbey, which Pope John XII. 
made the seat of a bishop, 1817.] 

Longages (Si miles), Oarbonae (oorrespond- 

ance to Mas-d'Azil, page 292), and other stations 

are passed; then 
Karferes-TolOSane (12} miles), the Roman 

Calagorris Covenarum, where many busts, coins, 

and other antiquities have been found, now placed 

in the Toulouse Museum. 
At the next station, BoUBSens (2| miles), a 

Branch Rail turns oflTto St. Girons, for Aulus. 
[It goes by Maz^8-8Ur-le-Salat (H miles), 
Salies-dU-Salat (2| miles), where the two 
salt springs were once worked. HiS^Mane- 
Toullle (5f miles), Ac, to Oaumont (8 miles), 
above which is St. Lizibb, with a hospital on 
the cliffs, which was formerly the bishop s 
palace; then 
8t. Olrons (5 miles), where the L^ze and Baup 
join the Salat, another place in the hills, and 
a sous-pr€f. (population 5,448), with a church, 
rebuilt 1857 ; and two bridges of blue marble, 
and many factories. The Palais de Justice 
occupies the old Chdteau. It carries on a good 
trade with Spain, Ac, in wool, mules, horses, 
sheep, cattle, paper, grain, skins, &c. Botel. — 
Ferrilbre. The carriage road goes on to Foix 
and Taraseon. Mcn^oU (1 mile from this), 
near the Audinae waters, Is so callr-* -'*— - 
temple which stood on Mens Jovi< 



n 



^92 



BBJL]>8HAW*S ILLU0TBATBD 



CSec6. 



Ave, and is noted for a bubbling Spring, called the 
Vivier, and its qoarries of marble, some deep red, 
and reined; while another sort (the Beyrtde) is 
veined also, bnt of a bright red, and known as 
A.ntin marble. Population, alront 1,000. 

Arrbau (6 miles) is a most pictnresqae place 
(population, 1,077) from any point of view, at the 
unction of the Aure and Louron, and an entrepdt 
for the Val cTAvre, which ranks next to that of 
Lavedan for verdure and fine scenery. Maize, 
buck-wheat, and rye are grown, but little tmlt or 
wheat. At Arreauisthe old Cfhurch of St. Exupkre, 
with many marble-built houses. 

A coach road turns off, west, to Bagnh-et-de- 
Higorre and to Bagnh'eS'de-Luefwn, and there is a 
path, east, over the mountains to I/tc cTOo (see 
above) ; also a path up the Keste de Louron, past 
Bord^res, Loudervielle, to the Port de la Fez, near 
the Pic de O^nost (18i miles). 

From Arreau, up the Aure, you pass Cad^ac 
m miles), which has a feudal ruin, and Sulphur 
WcUerty and stands under the granite PiccFArbiion, 
3,728 feet high, to its round top, on which is a 
needle-shaped rock, 9,288 feet above the sea ; then 
Vieille (4| miles), and Tramesaigues (3 miles), so 
called from its Springs (aquas), and having an old 
church of the Knights Templars. Hence the path 
turns to the left to Port du Plan, near Mont Olar- 
hide (12| miles); another, to the west, goes by 
Aragnouet (4,330 feet above the sea, near which is 
the Fall of Couplan, 900 feet down) to Port de 
Btelsa (16 miles), and over the Pyrenees, into 
Spain. (See BradshatD's Hand-Book to Spain.) 



Toulonse to Baverdun, Foix, Tanuicon, Az, 
into Spain. 

By rail to Tarascou (55 miles) ; thence to Ax, by 
road (25 miles). 

Toulouse Station, as in Route 66. Thence, 
up the Garonne, you come to 

Portet-St. Simon, where the Ari^ge Joins. 
Passing up the latter by the Junctions of the Lbze 
and Stize, you come to Pinsaguel, PiUB-Justa- 
ret, and 

Venerque-le-Vemes (7 miles) ; and Autor- 

iTe (6f miles) ; Cint0gal>6lle (8f miles), popu- 
liitlon. 3,442. 



SaYOrdun C5| miles), in department Arl^^e, 
once a fortified town, and also a Roman station, 
where Greek and Roman coins have been found. 
Jacques Foumier (Pope Benedict XII.) was bom 
here. Population, 8,466. HoUl.-^H^ la Croix 
d*Or. At Maz^res (8i miles east-north-east), near 
the Lers, Oaeton de Foix was bom. He was 
killed at Ravenna, 1518. It is noted for its wine. 

Vemet d'Arl6ge (5 miles). 

PamierB (6 miles), on the Aritfge, is a sous-pre- 
fecture (pop., 11,143), and seat of a bishop. In a 
fertile part, and was founded by Count Roger II., 
a crusader, who built a castle which he called 
Apamea after a town In Syria. It came to the 
house of Foix, and was sacked by the Princes of 
Condd, 1628. The castle site is now the Castela 
Walk, on a high rock, which commands a fine pros- 
pect over the town and river, the plain, and the 
Psrrenees beyond. The town contains a Cathedrai, 
rebuilt by Mansart, except the Gothic tower; with 
six other churches, a Carmelite convent, large 
hospital, and factories of nails and steel. Wool- 
lens, serges, and cheeses are made, ffotels.— 
Catala; du Grand Soleil. 
[Not far from here are Mirepoix and Mas-d*Azil. 
Gorrespondance to the latter from Carbonne 
(page 289), 22 miles. 
MiBBFOix, an industrious place (8,524 popula- 
tion), at the bridge on the Lers, once a strong 
post of the Albigenses, from whom it was 
taken in the 18th century, and then given to 
Gui de Levi, one of their leaders, the Marshal 
of the Faith, as he was called. It has a 
curious Chur^ of the 15th century, with an 
openwork steeple of 1506. Lalande, the 
astronomer, and Marshal Clauzel were bom 
here. From here to Limoux (pB/gt 285) is 22} 
miles. 
Ma8 d' Asil (19 miles west of Pamiers), on the St. 
Girons road, in a fertile hollow of the Arize, 
was a fortified cave, f mile long, 250 feet wide, 
where the Protestants made a successful de- 
fence against Marshal de Thymines, 1625. 
Cabane de Roland is a Draid monument. 
Near this is Carlat, where Bajfle, author of the 
famous ** Dictionnaire Critique,'* was bora.] 
VarilhOB (5f miles), on the Aritfge, has a 
curious grotto near it. 
At 5f miles further the rail reaches 



Koute 69.] 



fiAND-&00& to fHAKOX. 



293 



FOIX. 

POFULATtOK, 7,568. 

H0TKL8. — Boassei Lacoste. 

This small capital of department Ari^ge, on a 
river of the same name, where the Larget joins it, 
is hid away in a gap among the lower Pyrenees. 
It was the head of a comity which grew out of St. 
Yolnsien's Abbey^ fonnded by the lords of Carcas- 
sonne, and of a castle hnilt to protect it, by the 
Counts of Foix. Part of the Abbey serves as the 
Prefecture, the rest having been burnt down about 
1800. Three Gothic towers of the Ccutle (used for 
the prison) stand on a high rock to the west ; two 
are square, and the tallest, or Keep, is 136 feet 
high. It was built, 1862, by the famous Gaston de 
Foix, who lived here, but mostly at Orthes. He 
was fond of hunting, kept 1,60«) dogs, and wrote a 
curious old book on the Chase. The earlier counts 
fought for the Albigenses, against Simon de Mont- 
fort and his crusaders. Through bis wife, a 
daughter of Philip III. of Navarre, Gaston suc- 
ceeded to that kingdom, which afterwards, with 
the county, came to the French crown, through 
Henry IV. 

The streets are narrow, and the houses irregular 
and ancient. An old stone bridge crosses the 
river. St. Volusien's church was built by Count 
Roger II. The PaiaU de Justice^ under the castle 
rocks, is of the fifteenth century. There are bar- 
racks, a theatre, college or school, and library of 
8,000 volumes. It has a trade in coal and iron 
(which are worked in the valleys around), and in 
cattle, cork, resin, and Mrine. Five-and-a-half 
miles off is the Grotte de I'Herm, where prehistoric 
remains have been found. 

Conveyances to St. Glrons and Bram Stations. 
The latter is on the line from Toulouse to Cette. 
There are about a dozen passages from here 
through the Pyrenees In this quarter, but none fit 
for carriages. From Foix, tip the ArUge^ the rail 
passes St. Antoine and MerCOB, to 

TaraSCOn (lO miles), where the valley of Vic- 
dessos (noted for the La R ancle iron mines) from 
the south-west falls in, is the Tascodenitari of 
Pliny, and has the round tower of an old castle on 
a rock, with the church of Notre Dame near some 
caves. There are caves or grottoes at BSdeillac 
worth notice. J7o^e'«.— Amaud des Emperturs. 



The coach road leads past the Baths of UsscU and 
Mont St. Barth^lemy to Cabannes (6 miles), near 
Ch&teau-Verdun, and a chapel to the Virgin. At 
Orlu forge (to the left) there is a fine fall of the 
Ari^ge. From Tarnscou, by rail, past Ussat-les- 
Bains, Les Cabannes, Ac, to 

Ax (16 miles from Tarascon), in a pretty, healthy 
spot, noted for its hot Sulphur Springs (aqusa Ax). 
They rise up on all sides, and are powerful in 
obstinate cases of rlienmatism, skin diseases, and 
scrofula. The season is f^om June to October. 

Hotels. — Sicre; Boyer, Ac. About thirty of the 
Springs are in use, either as water or vapour baths, 
and for drinking. Furnished apartments almost 
everywhere in the season. Living is cheap at the 
hotels. Population, 1,609. 

There are other baths at MtRKMS and Saillkns, 
on the road to 

H08PITALET (11 miles), near the Port de Puymo- 
rens, a pass over the ridge of the Pyrenees, 6,300 
feet above sea, to Puycerda, across the Spanish 
frontier where the roads from Carcassonne and Per- 
pignan fall in (see Route 69;. The more interest- 
ing passes of the Pyrenees, to the west, are 
described in precedbig Routes. Or from Hospitalet 
by the Port de Saldeu^ to the little republic of 
Andorra. (See Brads/iav's Hand-Book to Spain.) 

A railway is projected from Tarascon to Lerlda 
(tunnel of 2 miles), joining the Barcelona and 
Saragossa lines. 




Narbonne to Perplgnan and Spain. 

By rail to Perpignan, thence over the Frontier. 

Narbonne (Stat.), as in Route 66. 

Passing StO. Lude, on an island between the 
canal and Lake Sigean, and over an iron bridge of 
280 feet span, you come to 

La NoUYOlle (18 miles), a small port of modem 
date, with a thriving trade with Algiers. Popula- 
tion, 2,446. The IStang de Sigean is the old Rub- 
rensis Locus, near which Charlemagne defeated the 
Saracens, 787. The line passes Leucate (so called 
from the whiteness of the rocks), once a Roman 
station, standing at the head of a lake of the same 
name. 

SalCOB (15} miles) -was the ancient Salsulai, bo 
called from its mineral waters, and has a round don- 
jon Tower, built by Charles V., surrounded by low 
walls with towers and comers, ditches,^' "" 



294 



QlMa^ftll4^'9 lhh5l9VMm$^ 



. «. 



court ladies, li«pUcAte4 In the BrinvilUer^ poispn- 
ing, were condemned by Louis XIV. to perpetual 
imprisonment in this place. White wine, to, 
imitate Tokay, is made^ called Vin de Macabeo^ 
The Agly is crowed by a bridge of 39i feet. 

RlveBaltes (6i mile3). It stands in the fertile 
plfiin of the Agly, having a popijlation of 6,016, 
and a good trade in MuseaUl vrine. 

[At 10 miles west, up the river, is EsxAOip^ • 
pretty place, with a trade in wine» oil, spirita, 
bees, cattle; where Arago^ the astronomer, and 
his brother Jacques, the circunuuiYigfttor,were 
born. Kotre Dame des Feines i^ a.hctrmitAge 
on a rock. Grey marble is quarried.— Further 
up (10 miles) is St. Paul de FmouiUet^ among 
mountain rocks, on which three old CaatUa 
are seen; it has a mineral spring, and the 
grotto hermitage of St. Antoine de Galaiqn^ 
L« Vbbnbt (2| miles), on the Aurelian way 
(which still forms the high road into SpfUn), 
past the fine castle of Castellet. The best way 
is by rail from Perpiguan to Pradet. theace 
omnibus. From Vemet the ascent of Mont. 
Canigou (see page 296) can bc^ made.} 
From Rivesaltes^ 5 miles to 

PBRPiaNAK. 

Hotels.— Grand Hotel; deTEurope; du Nord. 

PopulatioA, 33,878. This chief town of depart- 
ment Pyr^n^es Orientales (or East Pyrenees seAt 
of a bishop, fortress of the first class, &c., was 
formerly («.«., after the decay of Rucino) the 
capital of Roussillon, a province held by the Visi- 
goths, between the flth and 8th centuries, then by 
the King of Aragon till It came to France, 1659, 
by the treaty of the Pyrenees ; but the people are 
almost Spanish in their manners, appearance, and 
language. Of Rucino, just mentioned, all that 
remains are a tower and chapel, half-way between 
Perpignan and Canet, towards the sea. 

" The town stands on the Tet, 7 miles from the 
Mediterranean, in a wide fertile plain, terminated 
by the Pyrenees and the Spanish frontier to the 
south (loj miles), Mont Cauigou to the south-west 
(22 miles), and the Corblferes to the north. There is 
a seven-arched bridge over the Tet, whence there is 
a good prospect ; and another, of one arch, over the 
Basse, which is a branch of It. Gardens of vines, 
olives, pomegranates, and oranges are seen oi^t- 



side the brick rampar^ Tie sti-eets are narrow, 
dark, and paved with pebbles, tn* the bcMuea 
Spanish-looking, having wooden balc(mie». 

Outside Porte Notre Dame is the ancient brick 
Chdteau of Castillet, buUt about 1319, by Sancho, 
King of Majorca, on a high rock, a,nd now used aa 
a prison. It is deeply machicolated, a^id somewhat 
in the Moorish style. Porte Canet leads out to the 
Blanqueries, where the tanncM Uve, Place de la. 
Loge is so called from an old cmfved. Gothic build- 
ing, restored 1843, for the ffdtfl dR Viite, and tor- 
merly used as a theatre. In Pluce. de laLibarttf waa 
the Jesuits' Convent, destroyed at the Revolution. 
Near the church of St. Jea;a le Vieqx {th^ Old), 
built ill the llth century, cyossrshaped, with a 
square tower, is the 

C0tU«dfYii o/St, Jem^ begun by the Ktaig«.«f Ma- 
jorca (who held the town fhMA:<]binM I. of Am9on, 
in thel4t.h century), and finished bj5 LaaiaXI. (-who. 
took it in 1474, from Jamea li, eti Spain). Length. 
2M feet ; bireadth, 64; height, 9:3, the v«uJll h«in« 
unsuppoxted hx pillars.. U has a gpwi tcreen of 
white marble, a^id a /of*( o{ tlitt IHh eentory. Tho 
old churches of the Cordeliers, Oarmelitte^ (ws 
the Esplanade), and Uomiuicans deserve ooUoe. 
St. Jacques has a byick tower, restored 1848, 

The Citadel, on a slight rise ahovo ^e town* "w** 
built by Vauban, and inclndea a Iwge Place 
d'armes, barracks, and the donjon Ceutle of the 
Comtes de Roussillon, consisting, of ^ht square 
towers, joined by h\g;h walls; besides a^ old 
chapel, which serves for the magawae, A LihrarjF 
of 20,0 >0 volumes, and a Museum of pictures, ^., 
are placed in the o^d Unive$'titi/ buildings founded 
by Pedro of Aragon, 1849. It ftlao containa CMHeo'* 
Thermometer^ a present from Arago. 

There Is a pepinlfere, or uttraery,^ besides pubilo 
baths, theatre, a coUege, priests' seminary, and 
two hospitals; that for the military being in Rue 
SL Martin. At the Jardin de ?harmade is a 
Virginian tulip tree, planted 1769, sixty- feet high. 
Since 18C0, a government bergerie, for breeding 
merino sheep, hAs been established here. H Rigaud, 
the painter, and Madame Tastu, the poetess^ were 
bora here. Statue of Arago, by Merci^. 

Lnien and woollen staffs, bricks* oil, and wa- 
de-vie are qjade^ and there la a tradA ia^ cork, 
wine, ami iron. 



Route '69.] 
Ran '<» tmfSi'ims vpts^, nt "^hichVhb ^^ptinlih 

cohMll trUl 9M }^M»(M1» '^ 5 fr.). Vw» Mutes 
may I* tftlren Int© tiptAn :-4.*niat by Pdrt Vewlres 
and tfce xxfnt, by rnil. t. Ota thfe Anrtllan way, or 
high r6ad, t«l B«ll«gBf«re ^A). 8. Up the ^tth, by 
Ctfret attd AteAle-le«-Bafais (B). 4. Up Ihe tech, 
by nie, Pradea, Mont Oaaigoii, tMi Sfotit li(ral»(C). 

tl. From Perplgnan to Port Yendrcs bp rail^ 
past Elll6 (8 miles), near the Tech. the 
anetent Ittibtrii ; once 'forllfied, and having a 
Romanesque Church of the 11th century, with 
tvro towers and a Latin cloUter. Rail, 9 miles, 
to O^t by Le Boillon ifbelow). 

Then Palau-del-Vldre (if mile), Argel^s- 

SUr-^er (Sf miles), and CoUiOUre (3 miles), 
a small port; population, 3,411. It was the 
Roman Cauco-IUiberis, rebuilt by the Counts 
of Ronssillon. Noted for wine. 

Port Vendres (2i miles) on the Mediterranean, 
near Capo B^ar, the Portus Veneris of the 
Romans, surrounded by hills, and improved for 
deep vessels by Louis XVI., to whom there is 
a pillar of Roussillon marble, 108 feet high. 
Here the cactus beg^s to show. Hotel. — "Dn- 
yand. A Zootoglca! Station, or Aquartum,i»ei-e. 

*the next French stations are Banyulfl-Bur- 
Her (near Col de Banyul), Cerb^re, then 
tunnel into Spain, 1,192 ynrds. At Port Bon 
(8 miles from Port Vendres) there is a junc- 
tion with the Spanish line, vid Flgueras, to 
Gerona (25 miles) and Barcelona (38 miles). 
See Bradihau'^s Hcind-!Book to Spfiin.\ 

(A> ^erplgnan, into Spain, by the liigh 
road, y\k Bellegarde. 

The first place from P«rpismin, is 

ViUMOULAOirx (« miles). 

Lk BOfTLOU (^taiflefc), on the Teeh, With mfn««l 
baths and hotel, where the way (B) to Oe'nt and 
Am^le-]ea-Bai>m tunie off. 

V&axn, (8 ttkilae), the old Cfaww^, with a ^le* 
oftyadlotfi. 

Bbllkoakdb (3 miles), a fort on the tery ft'ontlel* 
of Spain, erected to defend the pass of the Pyre- 
uees, here called Col de Perthus. The town, built 
1674 by the Spaniards, was surrounded with bas- 
tions by Louis XIV. in one of which General 



BAII»456ft 9b MAlrdfe. 



^S 



1 



Dugommier, killed, ifH, in ^% Sptoffl^ imr, Iras 
barted ; htit hia Temains, wtth thot^ Y>f 0«nef al 
Da^obart, ax^'noW at Perpi^:iMm. Here Pompey^ tei 
the Summwn Pyremntm (as he called it, though ft 
is Hi reality one of the lowest points), erected a 
eolumn, stating that, ** from the Alps to the fnithei* 
entl of 4B^afti he had ^d^ccfd <m7 cities to the 
Roman rule ;" which, "frith the altaradfled by CMMfr, 
is gone. At 15 miles further is Jnnqulera, the first 
town in Spaiw, on the road to Ftgnema and B«is 
celona. (See Bradthaw's Hand-Book to Spain.) 

(B) tTD the tech. by C6x«t A&d 
Jlm^lle4w-BU]Hi. 

Distance, abotlt 84 miles, by road. 

ft-oto Perptgnan to Ln Boulou (as abore). 
Then comes 

CfiABt C6 mifes'sotith-west), up tl»e l'ech,tibove 
t^tmrious ome^tu^ Brid^, 149 feet span from rock 
to rock, SOfi-otai the #ater, only 14 broad, butit 
1886. It is a souB-pr^eetnre of 3,898 soahi, «nd an 
did plaice with modem faubourgs beyond the old 
wall«. It has a large pnblic fo«ntain. St. FerM 
aermitage is near The Commisftion of 1680 met 
here, to settle the boundaries of Franco and Spain. 

Ahelie-lbs-Bains, or Fobt-les-Bains (4^ miles), 
under Mont Canigou, so called from a mountain 
fort, and the hot »%Hphur Springs below it (under an 
old Temple of Diana), used by patients afflicted 
with rheumatism and paralysis. Fish and gainc are 
plentiful. There is a large military Hospital hero. 

Hotels. — Thermos Romaines; Pujades. 

The temperature is mild and equal in winter, 
w"hen the warm Vent d'Espague blows to the end 
Of January; but hot and nnhealthy breezes spring 
up about April. Beautiful walks and tides ; sweet 
herbs of all kinds. Petit Provence is a pleasant 
promenade. Palalda (1 \ miles) is a Catalan Village. 

Ables-sub-Tkch (Smiles) has the ancient Church 
of St. Benoit's Abbey (founded 778) ; in the porch 
of which is the great marble tomb of two saints, 
brought from Rome in the 11th century. Popula- 
tion, '2.270. 

[About 3 miles west-north-west, up a branch of 
the Tech, is Cobbavt, near a precipice, 886 feet 
down ; whence it is almost 8 miles by mulr. 
paths and serrated ridges, and hard climbing 
to the top of Mont Canigou.] 



296 



BRADgHAW*S ILLTJSTRATBD HAND-BOOK TO FRAMCB. 



[Sec. 6. 



Lb Sauvxits-lb-Tbch (5 miles). 

Prat8-dx-Mollo (Smiles), a small fortifiedmoun- 
tain-post, strengthened by old Gothic walls, and 
the fort of Legarde, bnllt by Yaaban. Popu- 
lation, 3,446. A path leads over the ridge of the 
Pyrenees to Campredon, on the Spanish side (18 
kil.), on the river Ter. Five miles to the west, 
near the head of the Tech, are the warm mineiHri 
Waters of La Preito-leS'Baifu, close to the Qrotto 
of Brixot, and Mount Gostabona, 8,084 feet. 

(C) Up the Tet, hj Prades (for Mont Oanl- 
gou) and Hont-LoolB, to Poyeerda. 

Distance, about 48 miles, partly by Rail to 
Prades and yillefranche-de-Conflent 

Leaving Perpignan (as above), the next station 
is 

Le Solor (6 miles); then St. F^llU d'Avail 
(8 miles), and St. F^llU d'Amont, and Millat 
(Si miles). Population of Millas, 2,460. 

lUe (6f miles), a small town at the end of the 
plain of Perpignan, with old turretted walls, and 
once noted for peaches and other fruits. The 
church is built of rough marble. Population, 8,841. 

The rail passes Bouletom^re, 2i miles fur- 
ther. Then across the Riu-Fagbs to 

Vinca (5 miles), where a stream from Mont 
Canigou falls in, after paRsing Valmanya (7 miles 
south), a mining village, by which the mountain 
msy be ascended, by a good climber, and a descent 
made to Aries, on the opposite side. Past Har- 
(inlzanes dS miles) to the terminus at 

Prades (8| miles), a small sous-prdf ecture (popu- 
lation, 8,762), in a fertile hollow of the mountains, 
built 884. Hotel Januari (the name of the owner). 
It contains a college, hospice, a good church, and 
(near it) remains of St. Michel de Cuxa Abbef. 
Trade in com, wine, wool, and hemp. Good views; 
but the mistral blows. Mont Canigou may be 
reached about 7i miles south, by way of Taurlnya 
and Januari. Correspondance from Prades to 

[ Vrhkkt (7i miles), a pretty village, known for its 
ffot Springs. A watering place and winter re- 



sort with good accommodation, winter gardens, 
park, Ac. The springs are efficacious In riiea- 
matlsm and scrofula. About 2 miles higher 
up the slope of Mont Canigou, on a rocky 
height, are the picturesque remains (a good 
tower, Ac.) of 3t, Martin's Ahbejf^ fconded in 
this desolate spot, 1101, by Guiffred, Comte de 
Cerdag^e and Conflent, to expiate the murder 
of his nephew. 

Mont Oanlgon, the highest peak of the East 
Pyrenees, 9,188 feet above the sea, and visible 
80 leagues round. It is covered with snow 
seven months in the year; guide and pro- 
visions necessary; horse road to within one 
hour's walk of the top. The mountains in 
this quarter are not bare, but edged with 
forests of pines, oak, ash, chestnut, and cork. 

At 4 miles north-north-west of Prades is Moliig^ 
a small place (popidation, 600), in a gorge of 
the Castlllane, noted for Its twelve warm 
Springs (temperature 90* to 100*), which are 
useful for Indigestion, ulcers, chronic muscular 
complahits, nervous diseases, and frequented 
July to September.] 

YiLLSvaAHCBK (8 milcs), a third-class fortress, in 
a deep gorge at the bottom of the cliffs which hem 
in the Tet, here lined by two streets of red marble 
houses. It was built by Vauban for Louis XIV., 
who banished some of his court ladies here. On 
the south side, beyond the ramparts, is Cava 
Bastera Grotto. Population, 700. 

Olxttb (6 miles), where twostreamsJointheTet. 

Thuks-ek-Tkavailu (8 miles) has several Hot 
Sulphur Springs^ one of which, the Cascade, Is up 
to 160* temperature. Here and in the neighbour- 
hood arc several thermal establishments. 

FoNTPBDBOUSE (8 milCH), in a pretty part of the 
Tet, near a fall, and several good points of view. 

Mont-Louis (8 miles), a little below the head of 
the Segre. Further on is Bouro-Madams, on the 
Spanish fronHer^ near Puycerda, where the route 
from Toulouse rid Folx falls In (Route 68). Bee 
BracUhau;''s Hand- Book to Spain. 




A— Ctaff leUal, ! 



r 



▲DTBBTTSBlIBirTft. 

CONTINEMTAL HOTELS, &c. 



- 



AIX-LA-CHAPELLIL 



CASIr moWUUOL, Pr«Frletor. 

THIS Urgre and well-known Establishment, close to the Karsaal, and opposite the principal Bath 
Houses, has an excellent reputation for its general comfort, cleanliness, superior accommoda- 
tion, and Tery moderate charges. The Proprietor llred sereral years in England. Table d*H6te at 
1 and 5 o*clock. Carriages at the Hotel . Arrangements in the Winter season from the Ist October. 

AIX-LE8-BAINS. 



t^msm CRAND HOTEL DU LOUVRL 

BUILT IN 1889. FIBST-OLASS FAMILY HOTEL. 

-pBOOlQCENDED by the Axmj «nd Vtkvj Sodetr* lOO Bedrooms and PziTate Bnites of ApartiMnta. Beoenilr 
•£• enUiged aad improred tar a naw Kain Bntnooe and lam HalL Oppoaita Uie Gardfloa of the two Carinoa. 
Baattitfal situation near the satha. Largest " Jaxdin d'Hiyer and pobUe Saloona. Ammgaments from 9 fruoi a 
.day. Lift Sivkh Booma. EngUah Landlady. Swim Manaffement. V, FICaVAT* 

GRAND HOTEL BRITANNIQUE. 

EleTated Sltaatloiif near the BaUis. UFT* 

QRAND HOTEL THERMAL IN CONNECTION WITH THE BATHS. 

100 ROOMS AND SALOONS. COMPLETELY REBUILT. XJFT. 

RICHABD and GAVLCiS, Proprietors of Hotel Brltauii««e, Ciaancs. 

AJACCIO (Island of Corsica). 



AJACCIO. 

Tbe Moditerranean Oowes of the Future. Quiet, Betired, mstoric. 

THE 

GYRNOS PALACE HOTEL. 

English Comforts and Sanitation. Newly Built and loxoriously Furnished. 

Choice CeUar and excellent Kitchen. 

MAGNIFICENT ORANGE GARDEN. LOGGIAS FOB LUNCHEONS & DINNERS. 

THE VANITY FAIR, BILLIARD AND SMOKING LOUNGE. 

.*v . ^ EMIL EZNEB, Proprietor. 

Auo Hotel lloyal et de fte^ssnre, CJiamoaiilx. 



ALAOHA (Sesia) Italy. 



AI.AOMA (aeria). GRAND HOTEL. 

I,MW METKJCB ALTITVDE. 

AT (he (oot of tha Monnt Roh. Splendid Panoranu. Oppoilts Ihs great Waterfall of Otro. 
Magnificent Promenodti In tha Plae FaroslB, Centre at ucuralona to GreuoneT, UicugBagk, 
Zermalt, Fobello, etc. Bailiray ; Nonro-Varallo. IrraproachELbls boiue In eTwy iMped 
Carrapondltts Hoaie: Onud HoM d* I'BllIOp*, at Turin. 



HOTEIi KIRSCH 



T AROE FIBST-CLi 
■L* u«l Bay of Aiglet 

Omulbiu to Traing and Stuuners. 



<MIIBTAPHA BVPEBIOIt. 

AROE FIBST-CLiSS FAMILY HOTEI.. Full Soulh. Splenflid altuaUon orerlookinj To. 
"~ " English Blllliifl Table. Moderate Temi. 

T. EIRSCH, Proprietor. 



GRAND HOTEL DU RHIN. 

PLACE ST. DENIS. 



AMSTERDAM. 



Amstel Hotel 

THE LARGEST HOTEL 
IN TOWN. 

Patronized bj the bluest class or English 
Trafellers. 




▲DfSaliigiinlirfft. 



BftACK'S DOELEN HOTEL 

nhHIS First-class Hotel is nta&ted in the centre of the Town. Open view on 
.uL the Utrir ^AmtteL Patronised by the bigbeit class of BngHsh and Amen^aa FMBiIi«i. 
MttttiH<>cnly- fkiYtilslied. Etery modern comfort aad coitTenienee. ^ 

^mifWpBie'Addj^s: "Doefito, Amst(<ydam." B. ^. HAtiOT, AfO'^HtfCdt. 

ANTWERP. 





THIS magnlflcent newly bnilt Hotel is the finest and largest in town, with a oentral sitnatiou 
between the Cathedral, Picture Gallery, and Boulevards. TWO HUNDRED ROOMS & SALOONS. 
Mttliiff* SmoUnir. and Bimard Rooms. Fitted Dark Koom for Amateur rfiotograFlien. 

BATHS ON EVEBY FLOOR. HYDRAULIC LIFT. 

Omiibiis of the Hotel meets erery Train and Boilt. 

J. LAVVTBIVH, the laaae Preprietor as MoSel «e l*B«rope» 

ABCACHON. 



THIS important establishment has been entirely restored by the new Pro- 
prietor. Every desirable comfort will now be found in the hou^e. Excellent Cuisine, wdl furnished 
rooms and apartments. Large Music and Couversatioa Saloons. Table d'Hdte. Bestauhnit a la Carte. 
HHnter Gardten (250 metres). Caloriferes heating the Hotel all through. Hot and Oold Batttt. Perfect 
hydrotherapy. Steamers and Boats for excurAions, be'.onging to the house. Lawn Tennis. Twioe a 
week Concerts or Balls organised by the direction in the saloons of the HobeL Postal and Telegraphic 
Address: Fbkbas— Abcachon. B. FOUAS, IMr.* Pl%iM<iMK 

ATHENS. 



HOTEL DE LA GRANDE BRETAGNE, 

FIRST GLASS. £. LAMPSA, Proprietor. 
fl|p«oial Office in the Hotel for Railway and Steamthip Ticketo, alio Pout Olftee* 

BARGELOXA. 

..t- ' . i f .. . I  II. .11 1 1-  , ,- - - vtin , 

GRAND HOTEL 

tUtSKSOMA. irormerly "D68 Quatre Nations.'^ ItAMBiA. 

fMfe 4 jH i iiifcr i mm moBT coMPoKTMiye. 

The Hotel is the Sleeping Gft» Xjett^. 



BADEN-BAPEK. 



FIBST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT,^^ 

HOUSE ^-"^^^J^ 



Not gnrronnded by 

its own 
beaoHfU 
Fu-k. 






5^ 






NEW VAPOUR 

^ ,^ ^Open all 

'r,^^wma strTctly 

MODERATE. 

^Special afns|«iiteiits ror a prolODgnl sUj. 

TABLE D'HOTE AT 1 AJID 6 O'OLOOE. 

'HYDRAULIC LIFT IN BSTH HOUSES. 

/I. ROSSLIU, Profr iitor. ' 
Btmli gptiil: HOffiL EDHI, PlLLillZA (U60 MMMeB). 
BADEN-BADEN. 

HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE 

TTZOHLT-REPTTTED and well patronued First-class Family 
Hotel, combining every modem comfort with moderate 
cltatifes. Beautiful situation in the moat elegant part of 
Badni. at the entrance of the Liditenthal Allee, facing Frf- 
QMftBi}9> Tlieabre, and Oonversation House, 

Lin. Batk Electric Ligbt tbroDgliost. 

URGE CARDEH, COVERED RESTAURAHT TERRACE. 

OPEN AI.I. TBE YEAB. 

imigements (llBltr Pmslon). Mi PnpMor, iSm DDKIllliEII, 

HOIK ITAINUIBIt, tllim; HOTEL DES MnASSADEURS MEIIT 



T 



« 



ADYKBtlBXiatllTB. 



BADEMWEILEB. 



BADENWEILER IN BADEN. 

HOTEI4 SOMMER 

(AND HOTEL KARLSRUHE). 

Fint-dass House. Beautiftilly situated, with Mineral Water 

Springs (Einzelbader). 

LAWN TENNIS. LARQE PARK. 

Omnibns meets principal Trains at the Mnlhaim Station. 

FREIBURG IN BREISGAU, BADEN. 

HOTEL SOMMER ZUM ZEHRINGER HOF 

First-class Hotel, neax the Railway Station, situated in 
the centre of a beautiful garden, commanding magnificent view. 

Both establishments have large Dining, Reading, & Billiard Rooms. 
Excellent Cooking. Fine "SWines. Moderate Prices. 

80MMEB BB0THBB8, Froprleters; 

BASLE. 

BASU.-HOTEL SGHWEIZERHOF-BASLE. 

THIS Beautiful First Class Establishment is the most important and the 
best situated, opposite the Central Station. ItlUM Iwen enttrsly roflimifllied and 
fitted with the most recent ImprOYementS. Vast Terrace. Lilt. Iflghly- recommended. 
Terms moderate. Managed by the New Proprietor. B. J. CK>ETZINOER. 

BELLA6IO, ON THE LAKE OF COHO aTALY). 



HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNE. 

^^ys^ t\r> mx..^ ^HVpRAITEIC EIFT and 1CUCCTRIC LIGHT. 
/^NE OP THE LARGEST AND BEST MANAGED HOTELS to be found on the Italian 
i^akes. The Proprietor spares no effort to give satisfaction to his visitors. It is 
" P ^i l"^*f<^ on *l»e heights in the midst of extensive gardens overlooking the two 
*^ll8h Divine Service Is held in a Chapel belonging to the Hotel Grande Breta«ie. 

A. JUYBB, ProFnei#r« 



▲DYBRTISEMBNTt. 



.^ 



BEBLIN. 



Vnter den Iiliiden» 39, opposite the Koyal Palace* 

THIS old, repnted, first-class Hotel, has the best sitnation in the Town, close to all the principal 
sights and Royal Theatres. Lately re-furnished thronghoat. SpUndid Restaarant, looking out 
oy«r the *" Linden.*' "* Cafe." Drawing Room for Ladies. Baths. Lift. Table d*Hote^ Bleotric 
Light. Newspapers in all Languages. Omnibas at Stations. Moderate Charges. 

Proprietor : AOOLPH MUHLIN G, Punreyor to the Imperial Court. 



BERNE. 



rpHIS beautiful First Class Establishment is the most important and the best situated in the town, 
-'> at two minutes' walk from the Station, and close to the House of Parliament. It is surrounded 
by a beautiful garden, with a large temce, and commands a full Tiew of the Alps. Its supeilor 
interior arrangements, the comrort of its Private Apartments, Public Parlours, Reading Saloon, Ac., 
make It the most desirable residence for English Families and Single Travellers. Reduced prices for 
protracted* stays and in Winter season. Lift. Electric Llfht. 



BIARRITZ. 



HOTEL DU PALAIS, 

FORMERLY the Residence of the EMPRESS EUGENIE, is now open as 
a First Class HoteL It stands in its own grounds, with a Terrace on the border of the Sea. 
The finest position in Biarritz. Perfect English Sa nitary Arrangements. Lawn Tennis. Golf 
Club adjacent to the Hotel. Proprietor : C. DIETTE, from the Berkeley Hotel, London, W. 

BISKRA (Algeria). 
PnVgT. TrnrTTCT. BISKRA. 

FIRST CLASS HOTEL. 

In. tbe best sitnation of Bisba.. Fnll South, view otoc tbe Desert.. 

Most perfect San itary arrangements.. Pension from 10 francs a day. 



BLOIS (FRANCE). 



aHAXTD HOTEL DE SLOIS 

Very comfortable Table d*IIote and priTate Dimmers* 

APARTMENTS for Families. Close to the Castle of Blois. Comfi 
Carriage for Tlsltlng Chambord and the enTlrons. Omnibas at the Station . English 



r 



8 ADyVRTISBlfBirTS. 



BONN. 



f ^  » p  I 



nrr. on the banks of thb Rnnris. im* 

JJlTUJanOH" ivMhotit equal, facing the Shine, B«ren Mountsina, the Park. Landing Fiar, «b4 B«tl«««r8t«tia<i. 
1^ ExtenslTe BngUati' GMmAws. Baadkog. a«okia& and Bill^anl Bocni» X4Mlifla. a^loas. American, Prench, and 
BiMClJiAklf amVMBWO* Waigpa aa4 Ck>ld Baths in the BfiUH, Special Omuil)ia«ea belonging ta tlva BitabliBhiiia^.tR. «||d 
firim 41 Tinaina and Stean^en- Iterate charge*. A^niiittageetw anaammeata for a pi»l«Bfe4M)oatai- Bnmn 
HigUy raeMDiBandMi< lW>l«4'HAt« at 1| and e o'claoh. O. MSKilf GlBK«i¥aiUKiHI». JlMMI^ePa 
aaaHHBBHaMiHMHHnaiiHB99HBHiBaaBMHBHr9iVHaBHa«ia9i>caBBaHM«ipaBsaBf^^^ 

BORDEAUX. 



wpv^v^^vina^v** 



GRAND HOTEL 

(HOTEL d» FBAKGE et da KAKTEB, r^nols)^ 

LIFT- "^ ELECTmC LIGHT. 
TBTiTiPHONB, latest systeza. commtuHcatiz^ iriXh. TABUS. 

CALORIFERE HEATING DAY AND NIGHT. 

TABLE D'HOTE. RESTAURANT. 

hkUmV &00M. BEADINO &nd SMOKING BOOHS. 

»ATH ROOM ON EACH >PtOOR. ^ ' 

SiHi«M opposite the Gmad Theatre, the Prefccttnre, the ExcbaAge, the BioK. 9 
Praace, and the Fort. Saloons and 90 Rooms from 8 francs npwa^s; in Pension 
£3 2s. a week. 

Mr. PETER'S magnificenjt Cellars under fhe Hotel, containing 8Q»000 bottle?, 
can be yisited at any time in the day ; he is also Proprietor of the Domaine dn 
Flienix, and Purveyor of Wine and Liqueurs to H.M. the Queen of England. 
He sells this article in small and large q^uantitieSy in bottles or in wood, in fall 
confidence. 

Vtg. LOms PBTEB. 



rtfa 



HOTEL »» FRXItdBS dILl FAZZ. 

niar.'ttMS/iiflRit with, exery imweim iMraevEiigiT. 

k DMiftitBiiY attorttd ia Hmeaittamat tfc»/Bowi, Higlily raeommABdAd. BmhM mW^ £lMtHi 
-^^ Light from 2 shillings upwards. Restaurant : Breakfast, 4 f rs. ; Dinner, 5 frs., wine included. 
In Pension from £2 16s. a week. * "^ '■ 

O-XVAUD HOTEL BI0HELZET7. 

mery 0»«ifort»MevEiitablUlini«it. Most Central Mtiimttaifc, 

UW* K&BCTBIC IiK»T. 

rp ABLE D'HOTB: Um i fcli M t , Sir*. ; 8 Ub^ »0c, miaa bwlndflfL BMtaWBl^ M Hxed prices, 4 frs. 
-"00,0 frt^ wli|^a^ii|Q|a4Ad. I^PMS tjfm.^ shillings upwards. 

QJSJWmX VPudJyAKSC, Vr^mMQif^, 



BOBDKHEUU. 



HOTEIi D'ANGLETELRRE, 

J^EBST-CLISS ESTABLISHMENT, highlj reeomneDded to EiiKliah 



Qirdn. 8*«il«lMdl>vkRa(ntorPtaDtag»iiliari. . 



IKUU) 



J. KITHZLBK, Propiinor uid HanMrm 



BOVUeBE-Sim-KES. 



Grand HOTEL GHRISTOL and BRISTOt 

FIBST CLASS HOTEL. HIQHLT BfiCOHHENDBD. 
SitMtel SMT th« BAILIVAT STATION and STEAMERS. 

HMS. TTK. SAOHIEB 0SKI8T0L, FroprletnM. 



LA BOUfiBOULE-LES-BAINS (Fraiuw). 



VILLA MEDIGtS 




Bleetrie Light. Telephone. 
■aglUi ipokeB. 



BBUGES. 



GRANI> HOTEU DU COMMERCE. 

JfntSfl-CUiSi FAMILY HOTEL, hlgblr patrooJied bv EnKllili mi Ameiliiw Traiallsn. Thli 
■^ hlatodcftl hsuH (I)iB eld KU of ItiF ruuODi OuUd of tbg fmlieri aiil tlie CosunstcUl CoDr>> ' 
th*IwM«adDUtit Flnt-clutHoiilof liTiigw, (Ddofl^n to PuniliM and Sli^l* Trmllnf 
 — ii-j — < -i . .- — ,*"„«. »^bi^'. -„^ „Qm] wiBep. Evory cpmloct. Fb« f 

0. riXDjmnjtaaB. n«vrb 



10 ADT^WrtBMMMWn. 

BRUSSELS. 



HOTEL DE BELLE VUE. 

THIS unrivalled Establishment, overlooking the Park, the Place Rojale, and 
the Roe Royalty luw been considerably enlargred and embellished by the present Proprietor, 
Hr. E. DREMEL. Public Aaloona, Reading, Smoking, and Bath Rooms. Spacions Terrace Garden 
oreilooking the whole park. Electric Light In all the Rooms. Ticket and Booking Office for Lop- 
gage in the Hotel. Rooms from 4 frs. 60 c., including Electric Light. Otis Electric Lift. 

HOTEL DE FLANDRE. 

PI.ACK mOTAlB. 

LODGING, inclnsive of attendance and electric light, from 7 frs. per day. First 
Breakfast, 1 fr. 50 c.; Luncheon, 4 frs.; Table d'Hdte, 5 frs.; Pension: Bedroom, attendance, 
light, and three meals daily, from 15 frs. M c. per day. Public Saloons, Billiards, and Bath Room. 
Jllecbic Light. Lift. Ticket and Booking Office for Luggage. 

QRAXTD BOTEL QHSRTSIAT. 

BOULBYARD BOTANIQUE. Close to the Station for Gennany, Holland, 
France, Spa, Oaend, Antwerp, Ghent, and Bruges. The Waterloo Coach passes before the 
Hotel CTcry morning. Charges moderate. BathB In ttie HoteL Telephone. 

Dark Room for Photosrapha. 

BUDAPEST. 



ONE OF THE BEST ON THE CONTINENT, 

The Newait Handtomett, and Largeat in ike CapUal of Htrngary. 

scanmno iavxsabt AMRAxavMSxru. moderate ohaboei ivcLinuira lust aan attendahcb. 

THE lIOTEIi FOR EN«I.IS1I AND AMERICANS. 

E. J. aLirCK, Kanager. 



CAIRO. 



NEW GRAND HOTEL-CairOo 

SPLENDID ilni-elaM Hotel, •itnatad oppMlta th« Bibekiah OanUn, the Opera Theatre, the Engliah Telegraph and 
RnrpUan Poet OfBcee, CoiiTenatioii Boom. Ladiee' Room, Arable Saloon, Bmokins Boom, Oriental Bar, Lawn 
Tennis, llasnlflcent Chudens enrronndlog the Hotel. Tho New Hotel le the only one in Egypt that, by ita e^andld 
■Ituatlon, lie ialabrions air, its Inxurlone and taatefnl InetiillatloD, its excellent French Cooking, is able to ailbrd to 
travellen every oomfort they are aocustomed to meet with in the first Hotels of Barops. Tsaiu:— 16 to 90 tranos pec 
day, Pension, Board, and Service, according to the Booms. Special arranmmcnts for Families. Omnibos to all Trams. 

Intorpreter* Ascensenr— urt. Eleefrle Llvhl. P. MAYER« Manacer. 



CALAIS. 



TERMINUS HOTEI. (Gare Maritime) 

Opposite tbe Steam Packet Pier. Bathi. Post and Telegraph Offices. 

CENTRAL HOTEL (Gare ViUe). 

'•ed in the centre of the Town. First Class HoteL Post and TUegraph Office. 

aectric Light Moderate Charges. 



▲DTBHTISEMEHTS. 




OAMNES. 



aHAXTD aOTEL du FAYILLON 

CANNES. WEST END, near OHBIST OHUBOE. 

iTHIB BENOWKED FIB8T-CLAS8 HOUSE, entirely renewed and refurnished, now with Lift. Electric Ligftt 
■'- throughout. Baths, GaliMiferes. aoc Best and Sons' regolar declaration. Full South, splendid view of Sea and 
Esterel Mountains. Beautiful Garden. Best Home for Winter. Terms and Pension most reasonable. Tariff on 
application. S«pt ftad Directed by P. BOSOO, fotrmmly of th« Biirop«, Tulii. 

CARLSBAD. 



ROSCHER'S HOTEL. 

€>oldener Bctaild and xwel dentselie Honarehen. 

FIRST CLASS HOTEL, finest position in Town. 200 Rooms and Saloons. Concert Garden. 
Large Promenade Garden. Splendid Dining Room with extensive glass Verandah. Caf^ with 
Newspapers in every langrnage. Weekly, two concerts by the Concert Orchestra. Baths. Electric 
Light. Lift. Telephone. Carriages Omnibus. F. ROSCHER* Proprietor. 

CHAMOITNIX. 

HOTEL ROYAL Si SAUSSURE 

p^IRST-CLASS Family Hotel, splendid free situation, with a large Park and Garden in full view 
^ of Mont Blanc. Excellent Telescope for free use of visitors. ElectrlC Light. BathB. 

Rooms from 8 francs. Pension from 9 francs. Special Axnuigements. 

B* SXNfiR« PrODrletor and Maaasor. Mrs. EXlf «R la EairltolK* 

Same Proprietor: Cymos Palace Hotels Ajaeeio (Corsiea). 

COBLEKCE. 

GRAND HOTEL DE BELLE YUE, 

X*lxrflit OlAiSS SCotel. 



COMMANDING a splendid view of the Rhine and the Castle of Ehrenbreitstein, and close to the 
landing place. It deserves in every respect the patronage of English Families and Single 
Travellers. Good attendance. Excellent cooking. Choice Wines. Hot and Cold Batbs. Elegant 
Carriages in the Hotel. Moderate charges. H. HOGHB, Proprietor. 

COLOGNE. "°" 

HOTEL DISCH, 

THIS WELL KNOWN FIRST CLASS HOTEL most centrally situated, 
close to the Cathedral, near the Central Station, and the Quay of the Rhine Steamers. 200 
lofty, airy Rooms and Saloons ; SOO Beds. Electric Light. Hydraulic Uft. C«lorif«re8 la winter. 
Excellent Kitchen. Large Stock of Choice Wines, wholesale. 



I 




THE GENUINE 



S the No. 4, distilled strictly according to the original prescription of the inyer 
my ancestor, by the most ancient distiller 

JOHANK MABIA FABINA, JoUclig-Platz, No. 4. 



OONTREZETOLI (Yoigm.) 



GRAND HOTEL DE IETABLI$S£MENT. 

FISST-CLASS, the only one in the Park of &• BsUUHbnML B^Om 
DtMtaai *d)itliiln; lbs Hotel. L^rga ind Sqill Apiirttimti. Kmijwi (n»» 4 fn, Talilf 
I'flvia iMul RenmrHDl k it C*rte. 

rsux PETIT, CDUceulonuT ; Go-Piosrletor of Uw Mntht^Hi ftdp. 

00BJT7. 

GRAHD HOTEL D'AKGLETERSE and BELLE WU, 



»« "■"""■'isasjtsa'tssav BssKT '"""^ " 

10 to 20 per cent. diBconnt Bllowed to Members of the Army and "Mbtj Tn njfirtriTi 
Societj, Limited, Loudon. JEAN G&ZZI, Proprietor. 



HOTEL deFAMILLEet PENSION. 




EHOELBEBO. 



KURHAUS HOTEL & PENSION TtTUS. 

CIIBST-CLABB HOTEL, belt sltnitfA In Ik< Vitler, In tht middl* ol in »un>in Eirdsn. 

DinWrfl, niiilSmnliinKRoomi. Ma«lcS»loon. Lift. Electric Light fniU the toonn. Wum 
■ndColdStiairetBM)ig. Englisli Cbipelin tbeeardcH. Qiod slteDduice. Hoderite cbirgu. 

£D. OATTANI, Pnqnietor. 

IIJI I IJI i J ■■'- m -iJ-LJ i I I o^^^x^^^^r^tBrmBB^^^^^^r 

rAnLENSEE-BAI) (Lake of Thoane) SwitMrland. 

faulem8ee-ba7 hotel vxcxbRiAT" 

Above Hplcx, Ijikc ef Ikonnc. a,aM fket sboTc aem). 

T 4TB RESIDENCE OF THE QDEBN OF HOLLAJSD. ConwiwdJnf 

V iplandid DB<r of tbe I^«. Btwiilitul ritiuUon doH to Uh ronrt. K-« q»ri«a w*<Vfc 
BuDfk oonArh HMimte okawM. B. JASfiOh nr»»rletar. 



jifofmemtxtati. is 



FBANSFOftT-ON-TH£-MAIN. 



- '"-'■•- 



HOTEL de BUSSIE. 

Etootvic lAftkt. Lift. Caloritoes. Opposite the GentnJ Railvay &l«tl«B. 

Tlrst-class Hotel. Erery Modem Comfort. 

^^ CHABLBS FRANK, ProjtA$t&t. 

CONTINENTAL HOTEL. msTOLAss. 

Opposite the Central Railway Station. 

ELECTRIC LIGHT and Central Steam Heating in every room. Beading 
and SmokiBg Booms. Splendid poeition. Lift. Baths. Moderate charges ; Sdenrioe, Ligbt, 
add Heatlnfir Incldded. Telephone 1260. First-class favoarite House for English and Aa]eri(^ii 

Fflinilies. The only Hotel on the Station ivith ground-floor Rooms and Apartments 

Proprietor: R. GERSTENBRAND. 

FREUDENSTADT (Germany). 

FRKiri^fiBrSTAiyT <«,eoo feet above Sea), 



Railway Ilne-Stattnart* Offeabarff, Straetburar. 

FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, surrounded by a tery beautiful Park. ComforUble 
Bedrooms and Saloons. Water and Milk cares. Pine-needle and Sole Baths. Sanitary 
ar r a ng e m e n ts perf«et. Central Residence for Ezcnrsions. Carriages at the Hotel. MSdefate 
charges. Pension. ERNEST LUZ, Junior, Fropxletor. 

GENEVA. 

uw. HOTEL DE LA POSTE. mr. 

n^HIS HOTEL, with the best sanitary arrangements, is situated in the finest part of the T<m. ekMe to 
-*- the General Post Office, the principal Bankers, and the New Opera House. Fine view. Well recom- 
mended to Families and Single Gentlemen for its great comfort and Tenr moderate chavgee. Table 
ohflte at 12-15 o'clock, 3 frs. 5 j c, at 5-30 o'clock, 4 frs ; Supper at 7 o'clock 3 f rs., wine included. Baths. 
Beading and Smoking Booms. 100 well famished Bedrooms, from 2i to 4 trs., Electric Light 
Included. Central Steam-heating. Pension from 7 to 10 its. a day. Telephone. 

Cn. SAI^UER, Proprietor. 

• ^ ^^f^fy^■ HOTEL BRISTOL. 

10, Kue du Hont Blanct near Engllsb Chnrelu 

MOST comfortable family Hotel. Every modern convenience. New sanitary 
arrangements. Electric Light in every room. Lift. Baths. Reading and Smoking Rooms. 
Mo extra charge for light and attendance. Arrangements for Pension. 

J. CVBTBT-HVeaAl, PMiA«(»lllr. 

GERARDMEB (Vo«ge8)i Traiice. 

GBANB HOTBZ. dU XiAC. 

(lit '<f«nie tni Mtk Septetobe^K VliKBT ClAfl^S. 

T/t6 vnty mtB with a Large Park and a Splendid View on the iQte 

lAa. 'M«i|^mi«. %dliiB4^#tec3rFloor. Lawn Tennis. Billiards. 
fi^tpttt&r, Camera bbscura. Manager: DUBA7 



y 14 ADYBBTUBMBNTS. 

OUON. 

CRAND HOTEL DURIGHI VAUDOIS GLION. 

FiXBST CLASS HOTEL, enlarged and entirely renewed, with the best comfort- 
ISO Booms. One of the finest situations in Switzerland. Central Heating- 
Moderate Charges. Open all the jear. 

F. BIBOHELMANN, Proprietor. 



« 



BOTEL FENSIOU BBLLSYTTE. 

NBWLY 1&1U&CTSI». EBTGUSH VAMILY HOTEJU 

LABXtE terrace commanding an unequalled yiew over the Lake, the 
Rhone Valley, and the Alps. Most reasonable rates. Corered Verandah and Promenoir. 
Baths and doaches in the Hotel. Highly recommended to English and American Famitles. 

PAirii WEIBEI^ Proprietor. 



THE HAUGE. 



PAULEr HOTEL (Limited), the haque. 

rpHIS FIRST RATE HOTEL, situated in the qaietest quarter of the City, in the ricinity of the 
■^ Opera, Masenms, and Royal Park; cannot be too highly recommended for its accommodation, 
the excellence of its Table d*Hote and Wines, added to the attention and clTility shown to travellers. 
" Restaurant k la Carte '* at any hour. Splendid Reading and Dining Rooms. The only Hotel with 
Lift (ascensor). Electric Light all through the Hotel. Bath. Carriages. Moderate Charges. 
Arrangements made during the Winter Season. 



HOHB0UBG-LE3-BAINS. 



HOTEL DE RUSSIE. 

FIRST CLASS HOTEL. 

ONE OF THE BEST IN THE TOWN, WITH DEPENDENCE "VILLA AUGUSTA" SITUATED IN 

THE EXTENSIVE GARDEN OF THE HOTEL 

Best position near the Knrhau the Springs, the Bathing Bstahlislmients, and. 
lAwn Tennis Ooorts. Perfect Sianltary Airanf emenu. Splendid Dining Boom 

with covered Verandahs. 

HYDRAULIC LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT, 
laiwe Hlmdy darden* 4.Soe s«aare jards, auaclied to tke Hotel. 

BEST ENGLISH db FRENCH COOKING. FINEST OPEN AIR RESTAURANT, 
la the Mxlj and late part of tlie Season (Kay, June, September, and Oetober) anraiic«Beats are 

nnde at Tery moderate prieea. 

r. A. lAYDIG. Proprietor. 

Vvrreyor to S.B.H. tf Oraad Dvke of XecUeaborg StreUts, I 



▲DYBRTI8BMBNT8. 15 



INNSBBUCE. 



GRAND HOTELdeL'EUROPE 

One of the Largest and most Elegant Family Hotels of the Town^ 
OPPOSITE THE STATION. 

More than a Hundred Rooms and Saloons, furnished with every Inxorioas 

comfort, and 

ELECTRIC LIGHT. 
X«IFT TO EJLCEIE FI^OOR. 

LARGE DINING ROOM CONSTRUCTED IN EMPIRE STYLE^ 

(A Curiosity of the Town;, 

FURTHERMORE LADIES' SALOONS. 

READING, SMOKING, & RESTAURATION ROOMS. 

RENOWNED GOOD GOOKING. 

EXCELLENT COUNTRY AND FOREIGN WINES. 

Moderate charges from ISth OCTOBER to 1st HAT. 
BKANQH HOUSE : Hotel Kaiserin Elisabeth at Zell-am-Sea. 



Tiff IV AD 19 TTriTP ^ MpeciaUy reoommeiul«d by Prof. Dr. Jaccond, of Fuis, for ben«flcial efTects of its 
adrl m% WwBmM W Was climate on weak conatitutions both in Summer and Winter. It has a renowned Univer< 
slty and offers great eduoational adTantae^ea. Splendid Skating in Winter. Turkish, Vapour, and Salt Swinuning 
Baths. Yeryfrequented Winter Station at low altitude. 

HOTEL TIROL. 

IpZSST Class Establishment near the Station. Over 150 elegantly furnished Booms. Beading, Smoking, Betiring 
' Booms. Baths. Fine Garden. Sltctirie Uf^t. Lift, Speoialarrangementsforprotraoted stay, and extremely 
modenstely Pension. Winter terms. IDiutratM Pamphlet free oa application. CARL JLABTDSEE* Propr. 



INTERLAEEX. 



INTERLAKEN. TERMINUS HOTEL. 

CENTRAL STATION. SOHAETTI BROTHERS, new Proprietors. 

FINEST SITUATION. Moderate Prices. Pension. Furnished with all 
modem oomfofrt. Eleotrio Light. Bath Boom. Dark Boom for Amateur PhotonsDhy. Best 
SanltMT Arrangwaenti. BofletattheStatioiu 




H 

XBEUZNACH (or, CBEUZHACH). 



ROYAL HOTEL ahi ENGLISCHER HOF. 

XHE ttrgtsl tfHd fitteA Hotel, with eiPay modefn c«tnf«rt at v^ry rilodir«t6 eMMM. Uirg« 
OaMea Hbtr MtfTble Batht. Ltft. P«rf «et Sankarf arnaig«merito. PoatAia TeWgMph 
Office in the UdaL OmniboB at both Statlooa—Kreuzaach Town and KreoEnacb Bath« 

Manager: OTTO AESCHUMANN. '"^'.IS'irSS.'fXf^SSi"'' 
KN0CKE-81]rR-M£& (Belgium). 



GRAND HOTEL de KNOCKE 

FIRST OiiASS ESTABLISHMENT. Splendidly situated IMng tiieSta. 
0n8arpaMed for elegance and comiorU oombined with moderate charges. SOO splendid Bed- 
rooms with Saloons. Billiards. Reading Room. Tefieraoe. Flaygtoimds. Omnibiu at the Station. 
The latest £ngU«h Sanitary Improvemeiita. 

LYONS. 



if Mil*! 



LYONS. 



BBST EOIBL XK HNSST flmTAllOir. 

THE GRAND HOTEL. 



The most popular and fashionable. 

MACON. 



ii" *tt I ttt-mAJumm^t^-—*. 



OBAXTD HOTEL le I'STTZIOFE. 

SPSOIAL Hoiue for funiliee aad Tonriats, fire miuntes from the Station. Tbia large estabUehuieiit, the best of the 
town, aitoated in the valley of the Saone, offers a magnificent panorama iuclad&g Mont Blaae. Bast sitnatiou. 
Moderate charges. Interpreter. Connected with the "French AvtomohUe Club" and Touring Chibs of Francel 
Mineral essences for self -moving carriages .to be had. TelephMie. VMferate terms. Sole correspondent for Maoon of 
Cook's Agency. On arriral at Macon, wire for the omniboses of the Hotel, always in attendimoe for every tzain. 
Travellers should not listen to Agents within or outside the Station, inviting them to go elsewhere. 



GRAliD HOTEL de FMNGE 6t des ETBAiGeSS. 

THIRST CLASS HOTEL^ the most fVequeiited by FidM»e« «id -TDMrists. 
-^ Bitaated oi»M«ite the St«tion. The only one wanti^Qg ixo Olttt^itt. Mfiefs 
^ train. AaglMfth eomloit. Large «hoieet>f fine and m^tnefv^vi^MMff ^Maedb 
-gulidy. IfcngliBh spoken. . SOftU^OVK VtWt^lOr. 



MADEIRA-(Fuilchal). 



Reid'S Hotels 

ESTABLISHED 1850. 

By appointment to H.B.H. The Duke of Edinburgh. 



.OEtD'SHEW HOTEL t AmTGXSB.-SUiu 



*^SBKB 



Telegrami "REID, PUNCH AL 



Pamphlet Free of Pftssmore, 124. Cheapside; "Hotel Tariff 
Bureau," 96 JEte^ent Street, London ; and J. and H. Lindsay, 
7, Waterloo Place. Edinburgh ; or Wm. Keid, Madeira. 



GRAND HOTEL DE LA PAIX. 

FIRST CLASS HOTEL. THE ONLY FRENCH HOTEL IN MADRID. 

ELECTRIC LI6HT. UTH. COURIERS. CARRIAGES, ELECTfllG LIFT. 

J. CAPDEVIELLE, Proprietor. 
HABSEILLES. 

n'nis blUnnwn ohimiliui TIrrt Olua Botal. Ihi Biirnt u> tba SUtlou, li dc^lghtlullr liliuUd Intba mnitHiitn) 
rll., H.ll. <)»[<• I.. 2m|al0rce», H.IT Dvm 
KAKL IHtTviN A Co„ 



49 



MENTOKE (AJ^ XwilfaieB) 



HOTEL BEAU-ItlirAGE 

OTBAB VO fiiE «iAJBA¥llll gff AW I MD w 
«TlHf6 eleptait^ ooMtnieted'«uid b«a;iitiftint4lrt«l8hed B«Ml Mtjdyi a liiglKVeptttiitlito forHijJftat 
**- «otofoft. MndftlBS Mo«ai awl Bfttht. AriMi'fccineKts l^r Amtf llei. 

Known for its «cc^eitt OiOtine. Charges moOerats. 

Th« Hotel Is under the penonalHiaperintcBflMice <A the PioprietMr, 

CAmRmi 4SBRlf ARO <SifriM>. 



iplOfiiSO YICTOB EMMAKUEL, 9, 11, faU soath, immt «o ike CWUMdMO, 

'vi' Vie%Wi«t£h«na 9lmitre, Victor Emmanuel PsBsage, Pott«iid TelegvnMi Olii<*. '^iiiet 
i t ei M W ^Mhig Ifce g m ii Wt . **tMI« d'Hdte*' and ''Restanratit." Stedlng SalooHs, SteoMiis: 
HlMtti, «Rd iWMtfh 1S fe wi »ap tf i<» . fi^dMullc Lift to each floor, Cetitral Steinn-MKtlngjqiptfni- 
fite, end IBleartelitglJt In mil «ln Hooibi. Omnibus at the S tatlon. Mo deraie ch aiiy. Jpenstai. 
OMk%Ooiip«ii««ode|i«6a. B. XABCrami, 



iMi 



HOTEL Du NORD. 

^01>fiRN, first-Glass English Hotel, conrenlently situated on (he Central Railiray ^S^uiftn. 
-"^ Large Garden. Open and best position. Lift. Electric Light and central Steam heating tu 
all rooms. Winter Garden. Bestawfaat. Moderate tentfB. Boom, light, ^ani attendance, Sfrs. 60c. 
Cook^B Coupons accepted. 

V. OOMiBOMI. gr<nirkrtor. OB. aALMA.. MwetBr. 

BELLINrS HOTEI< TERMINUS. 

IM tlieli 



"^EW; expressly built for an Hotel with all modem improToments. Sitaated in the healthiest 
^^ part of the Town. Pleasant Gardn. Airy i^iiments. Table d*Hote. Restaurant and 
Reading Rooms. Baths. Heated throtfghOVt Scrupulously clean. Careful attendance and very 
moderate charges. Real English Hotel, near the Station. Porter meets all teaiM. HomI C4>iijm>iu( 
accepted.' No Exaxiitation of LnooAax fok Yisitoks to this Hotcl. 

AscEwnm. HOTEL DE ItOME. un: 

A DMIRABLT situated, full South, tfn the Covso, a fe«r «l«ps ftMi 41i« 3>tf«no, Scala, and 
-^ Galleries. This Hotel, oomfortaMy f«nrtshed>and fitted up with the greatest oare, is warmly 
Tee<niraieD4ed for its comfort and "modefate charges. Hydraulic Lift. 

Braadi House : niLXZA VWnUf A, % taid xe-SVlBi BBRnfXRB VBXJEWS. 

BOBBliLA» BKOTHBK8, Proifftetorg. 

MONT-DORE-LES-BADrS (France). 



HITtL SAItfilflOII-liAIIALiY. 

^ __ RHMBrLY CHABAURY, AHli. 

^wgeoNAtt peneolk zai. Lawn Teni^s. Coklai% yiSiib 

Apply to Hr. BAmi— dtAUfWiDY, 



MOHTBBCX (Ctarept). 



HOTEIi dH CTGNX. 

tf^mVlCL^i fiomi;, *itmuA ta^Am Tidni^ *» '&m KmNreuz BmIRi 

<M«r OB Ann BBdila [JBkF. STOrMlLGLia. liM«« PaNIc Bilh. XTecirla I.IrM. PMHtmfHU 
Tu.lOfrMMi» «d «^. . ^^^ " 1 1 M, '*^ ^'i^^RIJEP'lp^*"'-— 

MU-NIOH. _ _ 

MUNICH. 

«HIAND H07CL OOHfTmaiTAL. 

pIRIT-CLABS HOTEL. CnnniMMa, b 
« IIMflti«e<ff tttaTinn,uiliiiiiM«nti> 



OHAND HOTEL des AUPSS. 



WBCTHAPSEir-gCHArrHAUSEW ISwi1ieriMia> 

FALLS OF THE RHINE 

HOTEL SCHW£IZERHOF. 

TIBST OLABB -HOXEL, 20O BOOMS. HTIHUlULIO LIFT. 
SplNldld noMi <tfU» ooieknrtta 
FALLS OF THE RHIHE&mE OmnKF | 
■U^WraH M MRT lUMIE. 

A CHARHIKG SUHHEK SESORT, 




Bj msuu'Dfl^ledlTlci^Kiid Itongml Lights the PbUb of tiM Rbm« bn biUllantly 
lUalnillllted ererj night during the Snmtner Season. 
BHeiilBH DiyiHB 8SBT1CE In the new Church, locateil In Uia 
,' (mab << flnliibabirhof. 



ADTKirmntvMTa. 



The CONTIHENTAL HOTEL 

OPEK FROM JUHE l«t TILL NOTEMBEB. 



'Ml rrm; in-mn 



%^ TbaUrgMtllnt-oUaHaUI. 
—^ fuOnc tha Sm mi fiatlu, 
^ cOoM to tbe K«iT XsmaL 

I READING & MUSIC 
ROOMS. BATHS. 






i Lighted thronghoDt 
I b; Electrld^. 



GREAT OCKAN HOTEL, 

FIRST-CUSS IN EVERY RESPECT, 



UNRIVALLED FOR ITS SPLENDID SITUATION, 
F&CINO THE SEA AND THE BATHS. 



Close to the IVew Kursaal and the Residence of the Royal Family, 
ELECTRIC LIGHT. 



liEON THOHA, Proprietor. 



▲DTBRTISBMSirTfl. ^1 



:^ 



OBTXMD CoAtlAiMd. 



THE SPLENDID HOTEL. 

npBB moBt fMblonable Hotel and Restaurant in the place. Finest situation facing the Sea and (he 

-'- Baths, and next to the Palace of the Boyal Family. " Elevator." All Modern Comfort. 

200 Beds and Saloons. - Omnibus meets Steamers and Trains. 

Address for Letters and CablQcrams: "SPLENDID, OSTEND." 

I» SCHWITKIBTG, Manager. Winter geason: Nice, Hotel de Fraaee*. 

Branch House during the Winter: xHB SHIP WOUEL, oppoiite the l^niJIng Stage of the-BoTal Belgium Mail 

Steamers and close to the Bailway Stations. Newly furnished. Perfect Sanitary arraugements. 

GRAND HOTEL DU UnORAL, 



LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. BOARD FROM 10 S. 
Gd. HOTEL LEOPOLD II et de FLANDRE. 

pBCOMMENDBD First-class English Family Hotel and Pension. Splendid situation. Nearest to the Baths, 
*^ Kursaal. and Casino ; dose to and with view of the Sea. Eyexy modem oomfort. Only Hotel lighted by 
Electricity in the town. Slttins and Smoking Booms. English Serrmata. eoo4 Bedroens, Ui^t and ati ead an ce 
tnm 8 fics. a day. Board (iMdroom tiiree meals, light, and atteadanee) tnm • trs. a day. Very adrantageoas 
arrangements for Families and long stay. All enquiries receive prompt attention. 'Bus at Trains and Steamers. 
Oood Cuisine and Cellar, Civility. Opsv aix thb tbab. 

S. DAVID VANGtJTCK, Proprietor and Manacer, resided many yoars In Enclaad. 
Coaeessionsry «f the Restaurant and Cafe— Knrsaal. 



FABAME (Near St. Malo) FRANCE. 

8ea Bathing of Parame— near Bk Halo (France) ^The finest Sand Shore on the Coasts of Brittany, surrounded 

by charming panorama, picturesque sights, and splendid views. Sweet and very salubrious climate. 

C3l-Xl..A.Zia-X3 SCOTZIXj X3Z1 Z».A.X1..A.3M[Z]. 

C ITUATBD on the very Shore, near the Casino and Bathing Establishment First Olass Hotel, much frequented by 
*^ the beet English Families. Beautiful Dining Room. Bestauraat. Saloon. Lawn Tennis. Hot Beth* and 
Telegraph In the House. Very laiige garden. Great comfort and moderate charges. Yery ad>antaceou« conditions 
in JTuIy and September. Omnibus of Uie Hotel to all Trains and Steamers. 

RlttUSUE aaa GAAJOHr, Proyrleton*. 



PARIS. 



HOTELSrBRETAGNE 



14, Rue Canmartin. Near the Hadeleine and the Opera, in proximity of the 

Grand Boalevards and Gare SL Lazare. 

EE-DECOEATED and re-famUhed. Doulton's Sanitary arrangements. 
Bedrooms from 8 to 10 francs. Apartments of all sixes. Bedrooms and 8 meals, from 13 fr^ 
a day. Bestanrant k la Carte, moderate prices. Excellent Cuisine and Cellar. Electric Light ' 
Ruoms. Telephone. Bath Booms. Reading Boom. Special terms for a long stay. Firs 
UoDie, particularly reoommeDded to FamiUeg. 



r 



MIRABEAU 

INTEL ET RESTMRMIT. 

8* RUE DE lA PAIX, 8, 



MSACE. COMPORT. EASE. 



BBSHBB 



XBASCQSL 



IHI^ji^Hr^*— ■■"»>— ^J*^ » H W»»1WP»P I t» » » —  » i ■!■» I M »T»<— i^w^^WK^^^WP^"^^— ^WT' 






OLD BENOWNED FIRST CLASS HOUSE, a few steps from the Central 
Station. In the centre of the towa a| thej comer ot the ChanneL Lai^ Dininf Room. 
Winter Garden, Ac. Electric Light. Telephone. Baths. Carriag es. Mo der ate Charg es. 

VMm of Ewene.) XIQI. CUk% «r Saoimi-. 



-I7IBST-CLASS HOTEL AND PENSION. 400. Beds. Moontaio air enca. Hy^ 
j> ^— ^ a hrtr a w d poittto^ trim, sptonaui PanoaMW^ Vhfw&oiaa. OnjMstrft. __ 
-ut Ta lt gs u rt i,, Lanpi aaphriiw Tw— wnnft Vniawlst< > RmwdII* Vtaa Woo^ 
WattK ^T^ntlTiiffTtah Iwillmj) MTwiiwiiiniHi ftwniwjiifti "T 
vd«i^ U'JM»aPd>HHi>iwrtaa wdqaatf trott. ^ 

For Proapeotiui and TexwitflNPlapttiivlh^MHH^pb Jt 




m^^f^^m^i^m 



 !■■  MB f I  I N I  11 ^  IIIM H, , , ;■ 



.^ 



*1iT0ST Pifitingiii^hod House in the most e(»vated and salubrious pariof SoiQe. 

CONTtNENTAL HOTEL. 

FIRST-CLASS. 30Q RaOMS, 

All Ifiod^m Comfdrts. Open all: Tter Round. 
P. LtJQ ANI. Proprietor. 

ROTTERDAM. 

IMYORAMWl^'S HOTEIi. 

|>|f^H>S£CB;i^P«ik. SalUtWAed since 182& PaiMwOly hei»M b j C!«k^ 
vf TiMM, IlAi^ ]!•«% nute Xtkgraph, Standard, and Scotsman mailed 
daily. Omnibuses Bieet Timinft ana BoalA os appltkadioB. 
T M iq^o i ii Ho. mk TeHegrams: LBTQRAAFF, BOTTEBDAM. 

B0I71II, 

GRAND HOTZX de PARIS. 

VIEW on the Sein^ Bon Seooars, Pont ComeiUe, and He Lacroiz. Near a Poat and Telesraph Office, 
V tbe TbfiatEB. andi tha pnndpaL MmHWMWte humf^ and aaall AjartroairfA Caioice Qniiaine. 
Renowned Wines. English spoken. Ckwk's Coupons accepted and abatement of 5 per cent, for an eight 
^>q "tiw SiajnlflpmMLbadimositeii 

HOTBI. BE lOi POSTS. 

ROQIKIS lM^t«4 by Electricity and be«be4 lij Caloir^ere. Situated oppoflijte 
the Poat Office in the finest central part of the Town. Magnificent Qarden in front of the 
Hotel. Keading, Ifosto, aa^ Wrilluy 8ia l »oaa. Bb^^M» n e w s paper s. Engiish and QenaMii spoken. 
Rooms from 8 francs; Breakfast 1 fr. 50c.; Lunch 2 frs. 50c.; Dinner 8 frs. 50c. Very comfortable. 

ST. HOBITZ DOSF (Eagadine), Switserlaud. 

WTEt BAVtEK ou NEtJfEQESE-sr. mqutz viiugk. 

Xi^R8T-€f#itS9 B0(CSl49 i» e9eefi^0Qalh> 4tie niitviyM^) o|p«» hom M of 

JL J«ne to Slvt of liarch. Ffa-e-proof Sttaircaee^^ ]$iglish 9v>.itaiy Xrranfeiveots^ K^ 
hot water pioef (not Mr <ur tt^aml Lift... Oicb^^triir Ljlbrai^T. Lawii Ten nlii. le e lUnlt. 

B. BAVIEB. Prop 



r 



24 



. ADYBSTISBICBIITS. 



Italy. 



SAN SEMO. 



BiYIERA. 



HOTEL de rEUROPE et de la PAIX. 

A HANDSOME Hotel on the Promenade, opposite the Bailway Station and 
Public Gardens, with a fine out-look. South aspect. Arrangements made 
for. a prolonged stay. Deservedly recommended. 

MODERATE CHARGES. RESTAURANT. 

LAUEBMT BBBTOLmi, JUK.. formerly €f Grand Hotd Jt4>ual* San Remo, andHotddeVEurope, JfOtm. 

SOHINZNACH (on-the-Aar) Switzerland. 



SCHINZNACH. 

ON-THEAAB (SWITZEBLAND). 

BAIL WAY STATION. 
343 METKES ABOVE SEA. 

SITUATION SHELTERED flrom the WIND. 

MILD CUMATE.-FREE FROM DUST. 

Season, Hay 16 until September 30. 



BATHS AND HEALTH RESORT. 



Ribh Snlphnrons JBrated mneral 
Spnng8» effloaciouB for Chronie ffldn 
Xnaeases, Ohroxiic Catarrh, Scropliiilose, 
Speolflc BlflcrittonB, Bhenaiatlflni, Nevro- 
Bu, Atmlatry. 

Fine new Building for Special Treat- 
ment by Inhalations, FulverliationB, and 
QargUng. MUlc cure. 

REGULAR DIVINE SERVICE IN CHAPEL 

Reduced prices until June 15. 
speotus ftee firom 

HANS AMSLEB, Proprietor. 



SESTBI-LEVANTE (Italy). (Route, Genoa-Spezla.) 




(ENGLISH HOUSE). 

ANCIENT FirBt-class House, entirely renewed. Situated in the prettiest 
tfnd qaletest quarter of the Town, on- the Shore of the Sea, and full South. Exceptional 
position, well sheltered. Garden looking over the Sea. Baths. Electric light. Modem comfort. 
Very moderate charges. Arrangements for a long stay. PAOOI, Proprietor. 



SOBRENTO (Italy)< 



HOTELS TRAMONTANO AND TASSO, AND HOTEL-PENSION SYRENL 

T^S?^*. ^^^^^i'^^''^ HOTELS, which are situated in the best part of what is worthily named 
tne Beauty Spot of Italy,*' are the annual resort of the most distinguished English and American 
he Principal Centre for Excursions. 

Mr. «. TRAWOSTAiro, Proprlelor and Manaver. 



SPA. 




6PA— Oldest, finest, and most efflcaclous Mineral femi^noas Wata ^—SPA 

HOTEL DE FLANDREl 

SUflY, Senior, Proprietor. 

THE LiEGEST FffiST-CLASS HOTEL 

□t THE OENTBE AND 
KOflT KALUBBIOnB PAST OF THE TOWH. | 

BeauiUttal Pnrk witli laralalied VUIh and Coiuwe* !■ tke lurlnMc araai 
Mulel. tn¥«red OTmnwliilll. MATMB. 

a-E.A.3srr> hotel ue Xj'btjuofb- 

BENBABD KICHAKD, Proprietor. 

FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, greatlj improTed and beautifkUlj situated, in close 
proilmltj' 19 111 tha principal Ertsblliluiienta. 140 Bedi. Vul aii!i»n9 and Rlcbly Fotnlihed 
Aputdunli. KciuUiib: Saloon inppUed vilh papert of all countciei. Lnrgi SnoUiig Boon. 
EJCTEK3IVE ACCOMMODATIOyrOH FAMILIES. Q rgat comfort . 

SPIEZ (Switzerland). 

spiEz. HOTEL SGHONEGG. ^ke of thoune. 

Onlr FIBST-OLASS HOTEL, near the Station (BaUway). 

BEAUTirSE SITUATIOK. (arrla«ei for Vnnderstec 4«emBl>, AdelbMlFia, eM. 

Proprietor : MTJTZENBERG-HAEFELI. 

STRASSBURQ. 

HOTEL DE LA VILLE DE PARIS. 

UNIVERSALLY REPUTED.— NEW MANAGEMENT. 
HYDRAULIC LIFT. 

ELEOTBIC LIOHT THBODOHOUT. 



MMwIcd IB Ike llne«( iHrl of lb 
T«WD H«r tke CBtEcOnl. 

Batha and Shower Baths, 

TbMc dVotc and ■eataaniiil. 

C, MATHZ8. 







STITTTQA&T. 



11^ flitoAited ift the finest part of the tows, ift the heani^l^ PlMe< B^jfti, 
wliQiRliig tlwRiBdlway Station and the Post Office, nmf to«bftTI(eat|««94tli« taflMhud«iiB, 
«^po«i$e t!^ Pataoft,. aad facing the new Odeon. This Hotel will be found most comf^rtMlt ttk every 
rejipeo^l the apartraents are elegantly furnished and suitable for fam iU a aof t i ngle gentlemen. Tabl e 
ri(0t««1^1ft«i49o*olook. French and EngUsfa Newai^^es. li^ a»^ Q. MMSmtinU^^ vm^fAum 



TAKABTS-SUB-MEB QVmt TMbi^ ¥w— I^nmm^ 



l,» «tT     J .    I     *— I U»J i » »» W I. I'   J« 



XTEW Winter Station on thfi ISIfeiilerraiieaEU plctmresque and welt-wooded^ 

Sri tafihiS entrance to Toulon roadstead. Open all the year round. If odern cooMcnrt ^sA, MPi- 
tatioa. EfuatmBAQnitkm. gtf»|«ea» eoawwriiatfilon wRIfc'ywton.by ImA aa»88^i» H w J i nH> 

!PaH■V^■■l■■H^■■i■■p■i■■■«■■■■■■■^il^il■■■B«p■a■Ha«K■■■DPB^■Qia^ 

(Black Forest). nSBiKS^ (T19 metres above Sea). 



HOTEL WEHRLE. 

TSEST situation^ near the WateifaUs; for a long ttme weQ known as "BOTBL I. OOBSB^/* Byery 
•^ English comlqirtk Batbfc Slec^ns MOi^ lltm Oom^ OniB^b«A aft. t^ atation. Carnages. 
Moderate obarges^ Pension. The xxroprietor gLTee best information for Excursions in the Black Forest. 
ne BOKHBL WMCK&s, not 'very kiie» mil -vevy^ conibrtaMe, i» hii^ recommended ta^ gte a aatt and 
Foreign Guide Books. Park. Garden. Good T];cut ^lishiog. P. WKWRIiK, noprletor. 

HOTEL BELlLE VUB. 

AYmiF qpKfqftable First Class JRaMUsr EQQftel, olose ta the ^MMrfoXU «lMk IJMMlk Very 
high and charming position, overlooking the Village and Valley. Large and' Airy Dinini^ 
Boon ; mtmi^. dMorated bmwUm Boom and Bentamukt Balconies all ro«ii4 tba House. 

Fine Ctarden. Bafhs. ElectrioLight. SngUah Comftort Pension. Moderate Charses. 
QnuOlms meet all Trains. aIiBB&t ro^skinowIa B«#9ii<Btor . 



VABALLO (Sesia), Thren hmok freiai IttMk 



HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT Md WS^ fSm. 

FIRST CLASS HOUSE, splendidly situated fkcing the Sacro Monte. Lift. 
Electric Light throughout. Beautiful Garden and ?«Mk humnXvmkh,, 9ltt4MMhPodera 
-^ropattate Installation. Sanitary arrangements perfect. Pension froavti^os. 

»M( and Hotel will be open trom tatvB^toiWHh •8i#Mr. 



TTEBm. 




Grand Hotel de TEarope 



THIS SPLENDID HOTEL, d«aated (m tix« Piassrat €M«Ue» 
-L «a<l five minutea*^ walk from tba Station, PbHt, Telegra]^ (((&« 
is fbrnished to afford Resideats Qvery possible coaYeniexice aod 
ewBforL 

Lighted by Electricity. BMted by Hot-air Stoves. 

§ATH. SANITARY ARRAI^J6£MENTS PIRFECT. 

Bil^^ a&d Do«l>le B«drooins, aaA q^Bdid 9Dtle of Aput- 

A. BOBQO, Proprietor. 



| i' » ^"^ ^* ■' -■^ ^ m ^— — ^' ' 1 ^^^^^  p»   !  <WFiPW<l^ 



HOTEL DE L'EUROPE* 

Qi>.ttii» it pw m > d 



rpHIS'OX.P BSX^LI3H£0 FUUnSCLASS HQXSUaUauiMl«ntb»beet pMittaltol^ttettMid 
-*- Canal, has jast been repaired and greatly improved. New rich Dinla^ RiaoMi 



4oo»^n«rt«ofej«c tb» ajTMiA Cwai. BydrMJia Ufl^ 

mP BBiiDINO ANO BHPVnn} BDOKSi BATBS^. VTTZSi SOVTS A8V80T. 
_______^___ MAWHKIIJUB 1»II3»BE£W FwriqfcftWk 



WIU>&49t. 



HOTCI< KLUMPP 

THIS Tint riiiM Hotel* <»otuiuim 46 &toMt wd. 836 lMro<Hn8, with a 
«a9WMA BxeakfMtt Beadl«# wsbd Cowvewntfain ftpiUM^ a«. vett •• % fltoLOking fiMfton* 
» v«cr «iteBilTe and eJLigaiit DinUic Soom, amtaaAitiflcial GaiAaa ovar tbA-aivaa, kkteMMMly 
situated in connection with the 01dand.New Bath. bnlLdiPge and. Coiuenaiion H<mHi« Vl4Jtaltiie 
immadiato vlololty- o< the ProiaeM4<fr apd Trinkhalle. U is cel«b>a|0<| tor 1«» elefawt aMOMtl^H- 
aW^ApaitoMnte, goo&CuiHne andOallar, anddeeerreaita wide^spread reputation aaan exoflUeiit 
Hotel. Table d'HOte. Breakfa^te ««4 Sugpaca^te^lkvrfi^ Exchange Office. Gorreapondeni of 
tlii prin^Jiiia Bankipy Hooieaof I^imdoa Coc tba p^ynggmiof CirenlM; Notaa mJLfmUmm^Cmf^. 
Ovnftvaaa of Hi* Botel «» and from each Train. Fine PrivaA« C«nrl4gea. IfMl «B^ '^^'^ 
B«ilk»ifttlMJBtotilk UAto-avaryfloor. BMaUenfraoooainiodatioji^ 

««rl]iff the months of Kay and Septemi 



SS Am 



HOTEL BELLE VUE, 



THIS First-class Hotel is beantifiilly situated on a terrace facing the new 
Trinkhallc^ at the aitrancaof the Promeiuide, and within llTe nuiimtea* waHc from the English 
Chureh. It !• well known for its eleanlinem, good attendance, and moderate chargea. The 
Cniaine department and Wines will afford satixfaction to the moat fastidious tasta. A great part of 
the Hotel has been newly famished, and the dnioage entirely reconstmeted. Excellent Sitting and 
Bed Rooms, famished with English comfort. ConTersation, Beading, and Smoking Rooms. Ladies' 
ICnslcRoom. The r<iR«« and other Papers taken in. Warm and Cold Baths in a separate bnildihg. 
The Hotel Omnibus meets erery Train durin g the seaso n. CoTered commaaicatioD between tite 
Hotel and new Bath House. T 



i 



GUEBNSET. 



OLD GOVERNMENT HOUSE HOTEL, 



FOIMERLY THE OmOIAL BE8IDEN0E OF THE LiEPTENAIIT-COVEBNOB OF T HE ISLAHD. 

THIS long-established and first class Hotel, for Families and Gentlemen, 
is famed for its excellent CuMne, its choice Wines, and the thorongfa comfort of all its arrange- 
ments, combined with the most moderate charges. 

Standing in its own grounds, and situated in the hifl^er and best part of the town of St. Peter-Port, it 
commands from its windows and lawn unriTalled Tiews of the entire Channel Group— including 
Aldemey on the north ; Jerser on the south ; Sark, Herm, and Jethou immediately opposite ; with the 
distant and historic coasts of Normandy beyond. 

An eztenstre new. wing has been added, comprising about forty additional apartments— including 
spacious and lofty Bedrooms, with southern aspect and magnificent sea yiews. Hot and Cold Baths. 
omoUng Booms, and all the modem improrements. Tariff on application. Special arrangemenU 
during toe Winter months. 

THE FINEST DINING SALOON IN THE CHANNEL ISLANDS, 

OapaUs of Aeeonunodatiiig Two Haadrsd CKiests. 

T-AlBTsJ*! X3'iaCOa*ZI. SonArXTArto TArl^Xoau. 



SPLENDID NEW BILLIARD ROOM WITH TWO TABLES, 

BY BURROUGHES A WATTS. 

Frtrate Carrtagei. Id on parle Franfais. Hier man spricht Peutsch. 

ViTe minutes' walk from the Landing Stages. A Porter from the Hotel attends the arrival of all 

Steamers. Booms may be secured by letter or telegram. 

Keglsteiwd Telesraphle Address-*' «•¥• OVERHSBT.** 

LoJ 



w 



RICHMOND BOARDING HOUSE, 

. CAMBRIDGE PARK. 

I S ^delightfully situated between Cambridge Park and Candie Grounds. 

— '^ Garden. Splendid Sea View from every room. 10 minotos to boats. Terms, Ss. 6d. 

-^lal Winter Terms. •^. . ^ 

Condacted lay Xr. and lira. ^ABT. 



OmKlTSnr Conttnned. 



BEL AIR HOTEL 


^ ^ ,. 




SABK. CHAHHEL ISLANDS, 

A First-Class Country Hotel. 

Thi LargMt u^on^- H^el on tlia laXond 


IM 


■Eh^^^^. 


a. BOBIN. Prowielor. i ^^B 


ggm 



DIXCART HOTEL 



(IN A I 

Terms Moderate. Established over 60 years. 

GRAND HOTEL. 

stands In an unrivalled position facing the Sea. 
IS THE LARGEST, THE BEST APPOINTED, AND THE 

LEADING HOTEL 

Tflesi-apliie Addrea: "OaAlTD, JEBBET." D. DE LE ID I, J*™ "''«''. 

Royal Yacht Glub Hotel 

THE LARGEST AND MOST POPULAR HOTEL 
IN THE ISLANDS. 

THE FINEST POSITION FACING THE SEA AND HARBOURS. 

Re-Built and Re'FumiBhed. Over 120 Rooms. 
BUSSES MEET ALL BOATS. 
Telbobatbic Addhsbb; JMO. H. FRSHCH, Prapv., 

"TACHT J^BSET." Agant to UW Royal SonthuiptOD Taobt 



r 



BRER'S ROYAL HOTEL, 

msTAxasasD so rsusts. 



ST. BREUDTS BAY flOTCL 

Cbannliivly Sli«*te4 ou 8eA Sbore. 

TiM only Hotel ia ChuuMl Islands aili»r<UBg facilities §&t 8«ft Batfctwg, 
Bvcefttiy eiflarged. taslffxm apifltcatloxL 



aaiKBaHKBMMMMri 



JE8SZT. 



THE BRITISH HOTEIi, 

FIRS^-CLASfe TwtA}y and Ooxmnercial HcrteL Centrally ritutfted, "within 
Three Minutes' Walk of FUr, Markets, and Fo*t OSee. OmaibiM meets all Boatt. Billiard 
Room. Hot and Cbld Hathe. ^4tsm ftoderale. Tabk (i*li9t« «l ^ p.m . .ftie Proprietor's owa 
Drag sUrto from Are Hotiel daily. J. K» mH. Proprietor. 



dMBi 








ROYAL SpUiUtE, JERSEY. 

f>&E oldest 'eBtabliAnd said moBt centr^ situated Family «i^ OooEDtteaJftl 
. «l0iel^la:st. BeUer's. XaAtoft'-aocto. Six Stock Hooatt. %ns meets MflMiMis. 

«. OBAfHAir^-FxivvMer. 



riMii«flkaaMitaHaM««Mia«*ritaaa«MiaM«Mi0i 








CO M li mR ClJM, AMD r AIMLY^ ' 

B8DB00M8. BIST BVOWIT HMfEfc 0r 1»B GHAMlfEL XSLAITDS. 

4/e per nieij Omnlbu mceta all BmiIs. 

F. H. MIODI^KTO^ Pftqpsletor. 



JSlUnnr CUmttaned. 




GRAND HOTEL D€ L'EUROPE 

M«»ly subducted H^ ttne. MMpHi*^ 



S'cMBas ffdna A. 6d.. p^r tey inclustipft. 



■■Mifc 



FRANKLIN HOTEL 

BED, BREAKFAST, DIMSWR, »D inBKDAMCE 6/6 PER DAT. 

MUNflMllt MEETS STEAMCHS. 



rfMMMiifHM 



UNITED SERVICE HOTEIi, 



sfMrAiMD «w •nn best 
LADIBB'«IA%Vimi RCMM, LARGE 

Tariff inclasiye from 68. 6d. to 9». fer-doy. 



AWD READING «DOM8. 

F. W. U. smON, Proprietor. 



4MHh 



MMMMMia^HHBMMBiMhiflll 



SITV 3EXO*]7!ESXji 



FA€IN« SOYAI. MIIAIKB. 

Hi oloie prozlmity to Haxbour, Piers, Bastem Railway, Beach, and Bathlntr. 



HOTEL 'BOS AND FOBTERS V££T BOATS OK ARRIVAL. 

Moderate or Indiuiye Tariff of C}. E. WIIiLS, Proprtetor- 





rHE 



(0L08B TO THE JJOaom 8«MM). 

BOitKilRBIST, AWiKI, MTEHMWCE fll6L«KQ, t/-f«MT« 

DaFlc Koom tat Aotographers. HoM 4hMRMm «Mitti «il IttottiiMilu 



MMWM« 



MTJU. lEHrailiCE & OMMBSIAL Mia, 

31 BROAD SVRCET. 
SS!D «Ba SRSASFAST, 8/6. FULIii BOARD, «/69er 

B. MOVKANT. rrop 



1 DTkBinrtuiaH¥t- 



PLEMONT HOTEX. 



STANDS directlj 



1 the edge of the Cliffis, and has a splendid TJew of the 
in find aru 



PRINCE'S TOWER HOTEI4, 



H. WICKBKS, Fropnetor. 



L'ETACQ HOTEL, 

St. ^-ixexx's, 

THIS Hotel commands grand views of the largest Baj in the lahuid, includ- 
ing the Corbltre Rocki and Llghlhooie In the distance, irith manT miles oE hard, drv, sandj 
heach. BOABDISOBTTHEDATOBWEEK. TEBM8 MO DEBATE. F. J. IXBBUK, Fro. 



WESTON-SDPEB-MAB£. 




WCSTOH -SUPER-MARE. 



THE GRAND ATLANTIC 



FACES the Sea. Stands ia four acres 
of OrDunantAl Qrounda. Cont^niupffanlaid 
one luiDdred tisA turen^ auintAuoualy aiip<^t«l 
SooBU. >[uiiia«Biit Pufilis BcKiEiu, Hjdixiaic litt, 
knd aU noosm bneraimnaM, ' 10 aiiouttt' wdk 
bom BidliniT BtaUon and OoU Uoka. Own Modal 
■a — »-_ ifjnwi wbk* «• rtrtcm 
ippir ■• lunawr. 
.dwa : - ••ATLAKTla.lf' 



AI>yBBTI8BKBllT6. 



BRITISH AND FOREKIN 

BIB LE socie ty: 

BIBLES, TESTAMENTS, 

▲BD 

PORTIONS OF SCRIPTURE 

IN THE VARIOUS LANGUAGBS OF THE CONTINENT. 

CAM BB PVRCHASBD AT BOCIKTVS DEPOTS IM 

PARIS 58, Rue de Clichy. 

PARIS 4, Place du Theatre franjais (Palais Royal). 

MARSEILLES 38, Rue de la R^publique. 

CANNES 6, Rue des March&. 

BR USSELS 5, Rue de la P^piniire. 

ANTWERP 44, Rue Dambrugge. 

BERLIN 33, Wilhelmsstrasse* 

BASLE 4, Stapfelberg. 

BERNE 9, Naegeliegasse. 

VIENNA 6, Elisabeth Strasse. 

PESTH 4, Deakplatz. 

PRAGUE Franzens Quai, 6. 

MADRID Leganitos, 4. 

SEVILLE 31, Plaza de la Constitucion. 

LISBON Janellas Verdes, 32. 

ROME 63, Via Due Macelli. 

FLORENCE ; 22, Via della Vigna Nuova. 

GENOA 9, Via Assarotti. 

MILAN .....Via Carlo Alberto, 31. 

NAPLES 101, Strada di Chiaia. 

ALGIERS 3, RueTanger. 

ST. PETERSBURG ...4, New Isaac Street. 

ODESSA 58, Khersonskaya Street. 

CONSTANTINOPLE... Tunnel Square, Pei». 

ALEXANDRIA Woivodich Buildings, Tewfik Pasha Street. 

Fttrthtv lafonnatioii oan b« obtalnad at any of the abova addresses, or r 

^^ 146, Qneen Victoria Streeti 



Al)T«ihfii«Mnrrg 



HENRY BLflCKLOCKS CO. 

(PROPRirrORS OF BRADSHAW'S auiDKS), 

tivAtta, €^um(t-t\1^0Qva^f)u^ 

ENGRAVERS, AND 

. ACCOUNT BOOK MANUFACTURERS. 




BBT DSSOBIPTION OF PRINTINQ AHD BOOEBIHDIMa 



SXBOUTBD OK THE PSEHIBBS. 



W CARDS, POSTERS, SPOOL TICKETS, VELVET & OTHER LABELS 

SPECIALLY DESIQNED AND PRIHTED. 

»ORKS: 12 AHD 13, AUERT SQUARE. MANCHESTER. 



ADTEBTISaiCENTI.
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Full text of "Bradshaw's illustrated travellers' hand book in [afterw.] to France"

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